﻿1
00:00:00,500 --> 00:00:05,000
I'm travelling around the most
exciting continent on the planet,

2
00:00:05,000 --> 00:00:06,720
Africa!

3
00:00:15,000 --> 00:00:18,320
With more than 50 countries,
and hundreds of cultures...

4
00:00:20,120 --> 00:00:23,000
Look at you guys! Ja!

5
00:00:23,000 --> 00:00:25,360
Don't switch over, you are watching
the right channel.

6
00:00:25,360 --> 00:00:29,160
..it's the fastest-growing,
most dynamic...

7
00:00:29,160 --> 00:00:31,600
Everybody here is crazy.

8
00:00:33,560 --> 00:00:34,960
Come on!

9
00:00:34,960 --> 00:00:38,160
..and most epic place on Earth.

10
00:00:43,080 --> 00:00:46,880
Oh, man! I'm going to have to pinch
myself in a minute!

11
00:00:46,880 --> 00:00:50,000
On this leg of my trip
around Sub-Saharan Africa...

12
00:00:51,240 --> 00:00:56,280
..I'm in the east of the continent
in Tanzania, Ethiopia and Somalia.

13
00:00:59,120 --> 00:01:03,160
I'll meet the people making a living
in the hottest place on Earth.

14
00:01:04,720 --> 00:01:07,240
Wow! Looks like the camel train
has arrived.

15
00:01:07,240 --> 00:01:10,920
And visit one of the
fastest-growing cities in Africa.

16
00:01:10,920 --> 00:01:15,560
This is completely different
from all the images of Ethiopia

17
00:01:15,560 --> 00:01:17,080
that I grew up with.

18
00:01:17,080 --> 00:01:19,840
And in a country torn apart
by war...

19
00:01:19,840 --> 00:01:22,720
This place just looks utterly
devastated.

20
00:01:24,400 --> 00:01:27,360
..I'll see how people are building
a better future.

21
00:01:27,360 --> 00:01:29,600
I'm prepared to die for that.

22
00:01:42,800 --> 00:01:46,760
I'm starting this part of my
journey in Tanzania, in one of

23
00:01:46,760 --> 00:01:51,520
Africa's great wildernesses, and
this place looks and sounds

24
00:01:51,520 --> 00:01:53,560
absolutely amazing.

25
00:01:53,560 --> 00:01:54,800
Twende!

26
00:02:00,680 --> 00:02:03,720
Selous Game Reserve is one
of the biggest wildlife sanctuaries

27
00:02:03,720 --> 00:02:05,440
in the world.

28
00:02:05,440 --> 00:02:08,480
It's a whopping 20,000 square miles.

29
00:02:08,480 --> 00:02:11,480
That's more than twice the
size of Wales.

30
00:02:11,480 --> 00:02:13,320
It's, like, everywhere you look,

31
00:02:13,320 --> 00:02:17,160
you just see wildlife, impala on one
side, baboons the other side.

32
00:02:18,480 --> 00:02:20,760
And now we've got warthog
over there.

33
00:02:22,000 --> 00:02:27,080
Africa is home to some of the
world's most breathtaking wildlife.

34
00:02:28,280 --> 00:02:33,280
And I'd come here in search of the
continent's most iconic animal,

35
00:02:34,760 --> 00:02:39,720
For such a massive animal, they're
not as easy to find as you'd think.

36
00:02:40,080 --> 00:02:42,080
But I had the help of an expert.

37
00:02:43,240 --> 00:02:47,320
Dr Edward Kohi works for a team
that's monitoring elephants,

38
00:02:47,320 --> 00:02:49,240
with tracking collars.

39
00:02:57,120 --> 00:03:00,400
The bush is so thick here, that even
huge African elephants

40
00:03:00,400 --> 00:03:04,680
can be impossible to spot unless
they're right in front of you.

41
00:03:08,320 --> 00:03:12,560
What are we seeing?

42
00:03:16,640 --> 00:03:20,120
The problem is, the elephants
of Selous are in trouble.

43
00:03:20,120 --> 00:03:23,160
There used to be over 100,000
of them here.

44
00:03:23,160 --> 00:03:28,000
But more than 90% have disappeared,
most of them killed by poachers.

45
00:03:30,800 --> 00:03:35,280
We'd spent the whole day looking,
and not seen a single elephant.

46
00:03:42,520 --> 00:03:46,320
Well, we got up early this morning
to look for elephants, and I think

47
00:03:46,320 --> 00:03:48,960
it's been worth it, because look at
that over there.

48
00:03:56,040 --> 00:03:57,480
There's a baby!

49
00:03:59,040 --> 00:04:02,560
This is such a beautiful moment.

50
00:04:02,560 --> 00:04:07,600
A mother and her calf. We've just
seen them feeding.

51
00:04:07,800 --> 00:04:11,880
I was literally
five, six feet away from them.

52
00:04:11,880 --> 00:04:14,120
It's just... My heart's pounding.

53
00:04:15,120 --> 00:04:16,440
It is. It really is.

54
00:04:21,240 --> 00:04:22,440
ELEPHANT ROARS

55
00:04:24,200 --> 00:04:25,920
That was so loud.

56
00:04:36,480 --> 00:04:40,760
One, two, three, four, five, six,
seven, eight, nine, ten. Wow.

57
00:04:40,760 --> 00:04:43,400
Look at them! There's so many
elephants.

58
00:04:45,720 --> 00:04:49,080
In elephant families, like this one,
the females help look after each

59
00:04:49,080 --> 00:04:50,400
other's calves.

60
00:05:01,800 --> 00:05:04,320
This is one of the coolest
things I've ever seen.

61
00:05:14,520 --> 00:05:17,400
That's Alicia? Alicia.

62
00:05:17,400 --> 00:05:19,360
So that big thing on the top
of his head,

63
00:05:19,360 --> 00:05:22,720
that's the transmitter base, and
it sends out a signal,

64
00:05:22,720 --> 00:05:24,240
which you can trace? Exactly.

65
00:05:25,880 --> 00:05:28,360
And I can see it's affected you.

66
00:05:28,360 --> 00:05:31,120
You seem very emotional,
seeing Alicia.

67
00:05:49,680 --> 00:05:54,680
WWF estimate that around 20,000
African elephants are killed

68
00:05:56,120 --> 00:06:01,120
each year for their ivory, that's
an average of 55 a day.

69
00:06:03,480 --> 00:06:07,680
It, really, actually gets me
here. It frightens me to think

70
00:06:07,680 --> 00:06:10,800
that, you know, the elephant
is so under threat

71
00:06:10,800 --> 00:06:12,440
that they could go extinct,

72
00:06:12,440 --> 00:06:16,200
and one day we'll be talking to our
kids, and talking about them,

73
00:06:16,200 --> 00:06:19,440
like they're these mythical
beasts of the past.

74
00:06:19,440 --> 00:06:21,320
I think that's really sad.

75
00:06:22,920 --> 00:06:25,560
The collars aren't
just about collecting data.

76
00:06:25,560 --> 00:06:28,240
They can also help stop poaching.

77
00:06:28,240 --> 00:06:31,840
If Dr Kohi spots a herd moving
towards a problem area,

78
00:06:31,840 --> 00:06:34,280
he can send rangers to protect
them.

79
00:06:36,120 --> 00:06:38,960
But the sad truth is that it isn't
just poachers

80
00:06:38,960 --> 00:06:40,480
who can harm elephants.

81
00:06:54,000 --> 00:06:56,560
I'm guessing the villagers,
and the farmers,

82
00:06:56,560 --> 00:06:58,040
are not very happy with this?

83
00:07:09,240 --> 00:07:13,200
Dr Kohi was taking me to a village
on the northern edge of the reserve.

84
00:07:17,960 --> 00:07:19,880
This doesn't happen every day.

85
00:07:19,880 --> 00:07:23,040
The path is blocked by bushes
and trees.

86
00:07:24,840 --> 00:07:28,120
So we're going to get a machete,
and cut our way through.

87
00:07:34,400 --> 00:07:39,280
People here are subsistence farmers.
They live off the crops they grow.

88
00:07:39,480 --> 00:07:41,840
It's the same for most of
Africa's rural poor.

89
00:07:44,000 --> 00:07:47,000
And these farmers are not
big elephant fans.

90
00:07:47,000 --> 00:07:48,840
So are these our guys?

91
00:07:51,720 --> 00:07:54,920
Can you tell me about the problems
that you have here?

92
00:07:54,920 --> 00:07:57,000
HE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE

93
00:08:10,240 --> 00:08:12,000
So, all these big prints?

94
00:08:13,880 --> 00:08:16,640
Look at that! Look at the size of
that print!

95
00:08:23,560 --> 00:08:27,920
When you say one elephant can eat
up to two acres' worth of crops,

96
00:08:27,920 --> 00:08:30,880
I mean, how much is that in rice?

97
00:08:30,880 --> 00:08:33,120
How many days' worth of food
is that, for you?

98
00:08:40,760 --> 00:08:45,520
One year?! One elephant can eat one
year's worth of crops?

99
00:09:08,480 --> 00:09:12,720
The trouble is, trying to scare off
a six-tonne elephant isn't easy.

100
00:09:12,720 --> 00:09:14,360
Can you show me?

101
00:09:14,360 --> 00:09:17,600
HE BANGS THE TUB

102
00:09:17,600 --> 00:09:20,440
I can't imagine 20 or 30 elephants
just marauding through your fields

103
00:09:20,440 --> 00:09:22,440
and all he's got is this.

104
00:09:22,440 --> 00:09:24,280
DRUMMING AND CLAPPING

105
00:09:30,800 --> 00:09:33,640
Tanzania's population is set
to almost double by 2040,

106
00:09:33,640 --> 00:09:35,360
to more than 100 million.

107
00:09:36,360 --> 00:09:39,320
All those people will need to eat,
threatening the habitat

108
00:09:39,320 --> 00:09:42,000
of the country's
incredible wildlife.

109
00:09:44,800 --> 00:09:48,440
Across Africa, feeding a growing
population will be a huge challenge.

110
00:10:05,560 --> 00:10:10,600
This feels like Africa.
Huge, vast, exciting.

111
00:10:11,120 --> 00:10:14,840
My eyes are popping out of my head
looking at it.

112
00:10:14,840 --> 00:10:19,840
Can we open the window? Let's have a
look. Brace yourself. Yes!

113
00:10:20,160 --> 00:10:22,800
I'm holding on to it...

114
00:10:22,800 --> 00:10:23,920
WIND GUSTS

115
00:10:23,920 --> 00:10:25,840
ADE WHOOPS WITH EXCITEMENT

116
00:10:47,120 --> 00:10:50,080
Guys, that was actually,
literally breathtaking.

117
00:10:53,320 --> 00:10:57,760
Nature reserves like this are
crucial to saving Africa's wildlife.

118
00:10:57,760 --> 00:11:01,360
But even here, the needs of people
can end up coming first.

119
00:11:03,440 --> 00:11:06,880
The Tanzanian government has plans
to build a giant hydroelectric dam

120
00:11:06,880 --> 00:11:11,560
that could supply enough
power for the whole country.

121
00:11:11,560 --> 00:11:16,600
We're just banking left because
we're coming up to Stiegler's Gorge.

122
00:11:17,040 --> 00:11:19,880
Now this is the area where the
government are planning

123
00:11:19,880 --> 00:11:21,920
on building the dam.

124
00:11:23,840 --> 00:11:25,960
To build the dam, over two
and a half million trees

125
00:11:25,960 --> 00:11:27,800
would be cut down.

126
00:11:29,600 --> 00:11:32,200
Massive areas would be flooded.

127
00:11:32,200 --> 00:11:35,200
The International Union
for Conservation of Nature

128
00:11:35,200 --> 00:11:39,240
has said that the dam would cause
serious and irreversible damage

129
00:11:39,240 --> 00:11:41,400
to the area.

130
00:11:41,400 --> 00:11:45,480
I could sit here and look at that
forever, to see all of this,

131
00:11:45,480 --> 00:11:47,080
it's unbelievable.

132
00:11:47,080 --> 00:11:49,640
I'm not sure what to think
about it,

133
00:11:49,640 --> 00:11:53,400
because I love how it looks,
but the people need power.

134
00:11:58,080 --> 00:12:02,080
More than half of Tanzanians
don't have reliable electricity.

135
00:12:03,200 --> 00:12:06,120
It's so important to get power to
people here,

136
00:12:06,120 --> 00:12:07,960
and across the continent.

137
00:12:11,280 --> 00:12:14,160
This is, without doubt, one of the
most beautiful parts of the world

138
00:12:14,160 --> 00:12:16,560
that I've ever been to.
I mean, look at it!

139
00:12:16,560 --> 00:12:20,360
And just like so much of Africa,
it's got so much going for it.

140
00:12:20,360 --> 00:12:25,400
But my worry is, at what cost
does it make this progress?

141
00:12:25,400 --> 00:12:27,960
You know, will they be able
to do it without losing

142
00:12:27,960 --> 00:12:29,520
all of this stunning beauty?

143
00:12:35,240 --> 00:12:38,320
It's a question facing
the whole of Africa.

144
00:12:38,320 --> 00:12:41,360
How to get people out of extreme
poverty, without destroying

145
00:12:41,360 --> 00:12:43,160
the environment?

146
00:12:50,080 --> 00:12:53,720
The next stop on my East African
journey was Ethiopia,

147
00:12:53,720 --> 00:12:58,120
a country many people think of as
the poorest of the poor.

148
00:12:58,120 --> 00:13:00,320
I was heading to the far north.

149
00:13:04,440 --> 00:13:07,000
This place is called Dallol.

150
00:13:07,000 --> 00:13:11,400
It has the hottest average
temperatures in the world.

151
00:13:11,400 --> 00:13:15,440
The remains of some of our earliest
ancestors were found near this area.

152
00:13:21,600 --> 00:13:24,800
We've just pulled over to get
some shots, and try and take

153
00:13:24,800 --> 00:13:28,160
in this massive expanse.
It's just so surreal here.

154
00:13:28,160 --> 00:13:31,160
And this heat is utterly relentless.

155
00:13:31,160 --> 00:13:32,720
Can you imagine?

156
00:13:32,720 --> 00:13:37,400
It's like being in a huge hairdryer
that's turned on to maximum?

157
00:13:38,640 --> 00:13:41,720
It's about 46, 47 degrees.

158
00:13:41,720 --> 00:13:44,000
It's just so overpowering.

159
00:13:44,000 --> 00:13:45,320
Even my wheels...

160
00:13:45,320 --> 00:13:47,960
HE EXCLAIMS
..are really, really hot.

161
00:13:58,520 --> 00:13:59,560
Orangey-yellow.

162
00:14:01,560 --> 00:14:03,160
You can smell the sulphur.

163
00:14:09,840 --> 00:14:12,920
This area is 48 metres below
sea level.

164
00:14:12,920 --> 00:14:15,400
The ground is made of salt
and minerals.

165
00:14:23,000 --> 00:14:25,560
I've spent so much time looking at
the ground,

166
00:14:25,560 --> 00:14:28,000
so I don't fall over one of these
big pieces of rock.

167
00:14:29,200 --> 00:14:30,560
Ahead, what have we got?

168
00:14:31,840 --> 00:14:34,080
I can see some steam coming.

169
00:14:34,080 --> 00:14:36,320
That is immense.

170
00:14:36,320 --> 00:14:38,960
Look at the colours.

171
00:14:38,960 --> 00:14:42,440
It's just so mad, and
weird, and colourful.

172
00:14:55,120 --> 00:14:59,360
You can hear it bubbling, like some
sort of prehistoric cauldron.

173
00:14:59,360 --> 00:15:03,440
I love stuff like this,
just natural.

174
00:15:06,280 --> 00:15:09,000
It's this really
incredible landscape,

175
00:15:09,000 --> 00:15:11,080
like we're on another planet.

176
00:15:12,440 --> 00:15:15,480
Funny thing is, this is not
far from where it all began

177
00:15:15,480 --> 00:15:17,760
for the human race.

178
00:15:17,760 --> 00:15:19,800
Imagine if this was the first
thing you saw.

179
00:15:22,360 --> 00:15:26,080
In this kind of heat, and this
barren landscape,

180
00:15:26,080 --> 00:15:28,920
it's hard to imagine
anything surviving.

181
00:15:30,520 --> 00:15:32,680
And yet, some people live here.

182
00:15:47,640 --> 00:15:52,680
So this is a village that I'm
heading to, it's called Assal Bolo.

183
00:15:53,080 --> 00:15:57,320
And the Afar people live
in this village.

184
00:15:57,320 --> 00:16:00,440
And the Afar people have got a
reputation for being

185
00:16:00,440 --> 00:16:03,680
some of the toughest
people on the planet.

186
00:16:03,680 --> 00:16:05,080
And you can understand why.

187
00:16:06,720 --> 00:16:09,600
It's hard to believe anyone can
survive here.

188
00:16:13,320 --> 00:16:17,160
This guy, here, he's the chief
of this whole area,

189
00:16:17,160 --> 00:16:20,520
and he's kindly building a path
for me.

190
00:16:20,520 --> 00:16:22,520
This is Assal Bolo bridge.

191
00:16:24,760 --> 00:16:26,640
It's...

192
00:16:27,760 --> 00:16:29,600
Woo! I'm here!

193
00:16:33,920 --> 00:16:37,160
Out here, in the middle of nowhere,
there aren't many ways

194
00:16:37,160 --> 00:16:38,800
to earn a living.

195
00:16:40,840 --> 00:16:43,400
All of this, below me, is salt.

196
00:16:43,400 --> 00:16:45,080
Salt, I'm rolling over it.

197
00:16:48,240 --> 00:16:51,160
This whole area is a giant
dried-up salt lake.

198
00:16:51,160 --> 00:16:54,040
Salaam! How are you?

199
00:16:54,040 --> 00:16:58,920
Every day, villagers like Ahmed hack
blocks of salt from the ground.

200
00:17:04,000 --> 00:17:05,600
Look at the size of this!

201
00:17:07,200 --> 00:17:09,240
Like this?

202
00:17:11,480 --> 00:17:13,520
HE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE

203
00:17:27,240 --> 00:17:31,200
Wow. It looks like the camel
train has arrived.

204
00:17:31,200 --> 00:17:33,440
Look at that, an endless line
of camels.

205
00:17:38,920 --> 00:17:43,160
From here, the camels travel
for days across the desert,

206
00:17:43,160 --> 00:17:45,840
carrying the salt to market towns.

207
00:17:45,840 --> 00:17:48,680
The trade hasn't changed
for centuries.

208
00:17:49,680 --> 00:17:52,720
This lifestyle is about as tough
as you can imagine.

209
00:18:06,960 --> 00:18:10,400
But out here, opportunities for a
different way of life

210
00:18:10,400 --> 00:18:12,120
are almost non-existent.

211
00:18:16,920 --> 00:18:19,000
Just surviving is a miracle.

212
00:18:27,160 --> 00:18:30,320
Back in the village, I met
up with Ahmed's wife, Fatima.

213
00:18:30,320 --> 00:18:31,720
Salaam.

214
00:18:32,960 --> 00:18:35,240
How many children do you
have, Fatima?

215
00:19:02,600 --> 00:19:05,320
Shocking, listening to Fatima.

216
00:19:05,320 --> 00:19:09,520
I've only met her for a few minutes,
and to hear that she's lost

217
00:19:09,520 --> 00:19:12,360
six children in her lifetime.
Must have been so hard.

218
00:19:15,120 --> 00:19:18,680
Part of the reason for Fatima's
tragedy is that, this far

219
00:19:18,680 --> 00:19:22,520
from civilisation, health care
is hours and hours away.

220
00:19:32,280 --> 00:19:37,120
That wasn't exactly the best night's
sleep I've ever had.

221
00:19:37,120 --> 00:19:39,040
This place is beautiful.

222
00:19:39,040 --> 00:19:41,240
BIRDS CALLING

223
00:19:41,240 --> 00:19:42,840
Listen to that natural alarm.

224
00:19:45,920 --> 00:19:49,720
It was just so hot, it's just
unrelenting heat.

225
00:19:50,720 --> 00:19:52,800
I don't know how the Afar do it.

226
00:19:52,800 --> 00:19:57,160
I think I've lost 2lb or 3lb
just in sweat.

227
00:20:01,720 --> 00:20:05,600
The Afar here have lived
like this for generations,

228
00:20:05,600 --> 00:20:08,840
but development might finally
be coming their way.

229
00:20:28,600 --> 00:20:32,600
Ethiopia is currently working
to double its road network.

230
00:20:33,880 --> 00:20:37,480
Roads may not sound like a big deal,
but they're one of the best ways

231
00:20:37,480 --> 00:20:40,600
of getting people out of
extreme poverty.

232
00:20:40,600 --> 00:20:43,560
They can turn subsistence farmers
into traders,

233
00:20:43,560 --> 00:20:47,240
and bring people closer to education
and health care.

234
00:20:48,400 --> 00:20:51,480
And this new road is having an even
bigger impact.

235
00:21:08,120 --> 00:21:09,640
See that limestone there?

236
00:21:09,640 --> 00:21:12,400
I'm not a fan of helmets
because I have to...

237
00:21:12,400 --> 00:21:14,360
Because of my hair...

238
00:21:20,400 --> 00:21:23,760
Torge Kweider works for a Norwegian
fertilizer company

239
00:21:23,760 --> 00:21:28,040
that has come here to mine potassium
sulphate, also known as potash.

240
00:21:29,160 --> 00:21:33,520
This mine aims to produce 600,000
tonnes of potash a year,

241
00:21:33,520 --> 00:21:36,160
and most of it will be sold abroad.

242
00:21:36,160 --> 00:21:40,440
What is going to stop this from
being another story

243
00:21:40,440 --> 00:21:42,960
of Africa being exploited?

244
00:21:42,960 --> 00:21:47,520
You know, because similar things
happen with oil, with diamonds.

245
00:21:47,520 --> 00:21:50,120
How would that not happen here?

246
00:22:14,400 --> 00:22:19,360
Since the famine of the '80s,
Ethiopia's population has doubled.

247
00:22:19,360 --> 00:22:23,120
And by 2050, there will be a billion
more people in Africa

248
00:22:23,120 --> 00:22:25,360
than there are now.

249
00:22:25,360 --> 00:22:28,560
The continent needs to switch
from subsistence farming

250
00:22:28,560 --> 00:22:30,600
to large-scale production.

251
00:22:30,600 --> 00:22:32,040
Fertilizer is key.

252
00:22:35,240 --> 00:22:37,520
But I wanted to find out what the
locals thought

253
00:22:37,520 --> 00:22:42,200
about a massive European company
coming in and mining their land.

254
00:22:42,200 --> 00:22:44,040
I joined some of them on a break.

255
00:22:45,440 --> 00:22:47,240
Go on, son! Go on!

256
00:23:07,120 --> 00:23:11,880
Are you worried about possibly
losing your traditional way of life,

257
00:23:11,880 --> 00:23:14,760
now that with all the money,
and the stuff that's coming

258
00:23:14,760 --> 00:23:16,320
in from the mining company?

259
00:23:34,600 --> 00:23:36,640
What is potash to Ethiopia?

260
00:23:44,840 --> 00:23:48,400
For centuries, foreign powers
have exploited this continent's

261
00:23:48,400 --> 00:23:51,880
resources, leaving local
populations in poverty.

262
00:23:53,400 --> 00:23:57,160
The hope is, things will be
different for this new generation.

263
00:24:00,000 --> 00:24:04,680
Look at that, a camel salt train
on a brand-new Ethiopian road.

264
00:24:04,680 --> 00:24:09,640
For me, this encapsulates
where this region is right now,

265
00:24:13,680 --> 00:24:17,360
on whether they can learn
from the mistakes that other African

266
00:24:17,360 --> 00:24:22,120
nations have made in the past, when
it comes to their natural resources.

267
00:24:22,120 --> 00:24:26,160
If you really want to see how Africa
is changing, there's nowhere better

268
00:24:26,160 --> 00:24:27,440
than Ethiopia's capital.

269
00:24:31,280 --> 00:24:33,080
I'd come to Addis Ababa.

270
00:24:43,640 --> 00:24:45,520
Everywhere I look in this city,

271
00:24:45,520 --> 00:24:47,640
there seems to be construction work
going on.

272
00:24:47,640 --> 00:24:49,560
Look, there's a building
site over there.

273
00:24:49,560 --> 00:24:51,440
There's another one over there.

274
00:24:51,440 --> 00:24:56,480
And Addis Ababa has even built East
Africa's first light railway system.

275
00:24:56,680 --> 00:24:58,680
Just over there.

276
00:24:58,680 --> 00:25:03,040
This is completely different
from all the images of Ethiopia

277
00:25:03,040 --> 00:25:04,760
that I grew up with.

278
00:25:07,640 --> 00:25:11,080
Back then, Ethiopia used to be one
of the poorest countries

279
00:25:11,080 --> 00:25:12,720
in the world.

280
00:25:12,720 --> 00:25:16,040
It still receives aid, but life
has improved for many people here.

281
00:25:16,040 --> 00:25:19,400
Today, it's got one of the
fastest-growing economies on the
planet.

282
00:25:21,640 --> 00:25:24,200
I was about to be shown
around the city by someone

283
00:25:24,200 --> 00:25:25,640
a bit special.

284
00:25:26,960 --> 00:25:30,440
I'm about to meet one of Ethiopia's
living legends,

285
00:25:30,440 --> 00:25:35,400
Haile Gebrselassie, double Olympic
champion, world champion,

286
00:25:35,400 --> 00:25:40,000
and a lot people see him as the
greatest long distance runner

287
00:25:40,000 --> 00:25:43,120
of all time. I'm very, very
excited about this, actually.

288
00:25:43,120 --> 00:25:46,840
It's not every day that you get to
meet an Olympic gold medallist.

289
00:25:49,080 --> 00:25:51,960
Hey, hello, Haile!

290
00:25:51,960 --> 00:25:54,360
It's such a pleasure to meet you.

291
00:25:55,880 --> 00:25:59,000
How are you? I'm good, yourself?
Very, very good.

292
00:26:00,480 --> 00:26:03,080
This is amazing. Today, I'm your
guide, your tour guide.

293
00:26:03,080 --> 00:26:05,120
Yes, you're my tour guide!

294
00:26:08,560 --> 00:26:10,800
Haile is just getting surrounded
by fans.

295
00:26:10,800 --> 00:26:13,480
He said it would be a little bit
difficult for him to get out

296
00:26:13,480 --> 00:26:16,480
in the public, and you can see
how proud everyone is of him.

297
00:26:20,160 --> 00:26:22,600
Haile began his career early.

298
00:26:22,600 --> 00:26:27,200
He had to run 10km
to school and back, every day.

299
00:26:27,200 --> 00:26:29,920
He won his first prize when he
was a teenager.

300
00:26:29,920 --> 00:26:32,760
When I was in ninth grade,
there was a competition.

301
00:26:32,760 --> 00:26:36,240
There was a 1,500 metres. I didn't
know how far is that - 1,500
metres.

302
00:26:36,240 --> 00:26:38,240
I didn't know how many laps.

303
00:26:38,240 --> 00:26:42,160
And the only thing what I knew, was
just to leave, you know,

304
00:26:42,160 --> 00:26:44,480
quickly from the group.

305
00:26:44,480 --> 00:26:47,240
You didn't even know how many
laps you had to run?

306
00:26:47,240 --> 00:26:49,920
You just ran as fast as you could?
Yeah, exactly. I love that.

307
00:26:57,560 --> 00:26:59,760
And we're doing this at altitude.

308
00:27:01,560 --> 00:27:06,400
Haile's building a museum, to house
his collection of trophies.

309
00:27:06,400 --> 00:27:09,200
Oh, my days! These are
your trophies?

310
00:27:09,200 --> 00:27:11,280
Don't worry, we have enough!

311
00:27:11,280 --> 00:27:12,560
Wow! Look at that.

312
00:27:13,720 --> 00:27:15,960
The story starts from there.

313
00:27:15,960 --> 00:27:19,640
Your pride and joy? Yes.
This is my first prize.

314
00:27:21,360 --> 00:27:24,560
When all of these trophies,
and the medals, are displayed

315
00:27:24,560 --> 00:27:27,800
in these cabinets, are you hoping
they will inspire the next

316
00:27:27,800 --> 00:27:29,400
generation of Ethiopians?

317
00:27:29,400 --> 00:27:31,840
The next Haile Gebrselassie?

318
00:27:31,840 --> 00:27:35,520
I wish, not only in athletics,
but other sectors.

319
00:27:36,520 --> 00:27:39,760
When I bring the kids here
to see this, I hope, you know,

320
00:27:39,760 --> 00:27:43,720
they enjoy, at the same time,
they learn something

321
00:27:43,720 --> 00:27:47,320
out of this achievement. They put in
their mind, you know, oh,

322
00:27:47,320 --> 00:27:50,560
I wish, you know, to be like Haile
Gebrselassie,

323
00:27:50,560 --> 00:27:53,560
not only in running.
There are other things.

324
00:27:59,880 --> 00:28:03,560
So, you competed in Sydney 2000?
Oh, yeah, 2000. So did I.

325
00:28:03,560 --> 00:28:07,200
I competed in Sydney 2000
in the Paralympics. Did you?

326
00:28:07,200 --> 00:28:11,200
OK, how was it? Was good?
It was amazing. You won?

327
00:28:11,200 --> 00:28:16,040
We lost to the USA, in the
last seconds.

328
00:28:16,040 --> 00:28:19,600
I don't need to ask you - you won,
of course. I did, I did.

329
00:28:19,600 --> 00:28:21,240
The 10,000.

330
00:28:23,240 --> 00:28:27,520
Why did you decide to come back
and live in Addis?

331
00:28:27,520 --> 00:28:32,000
Because a lot of stars, they move
and they live in America,

332
00:28:32,000 --> 00:28:36,240
or they live in Europe.
Because this is my country.

333
00:28:37,280 --> 00:28:40,320
Can you change your mother?

334
00:28:40,320 --> 00:28:45,160
That's your mother, it doesn't
matter how poor she is.

335
00:28:46,600 --> 00:28:50,120
I'm happy, you know, I'm a part
of, you know, the change.

336
00:28:50,120 --> 00:28:52,920
With others, we can do a lot
of things.

337
00:28:56,680 --> 00:28:59,840
Haile has put the money he earned
in athletics to work.

338
00:29:01,000 --> 00:29:04,880
Today, he's one of Ethiopia's most
successful entrepreneurs,

339
00:29:04,880 --> 00:29:07,960
with over 2,300 employees.

340
00:29:07,960 --> 00:29:11,240
He's got investments in some
of the country's biggest industries,

341
00:29:11,240 --> 00:29:13,800
like coffee, construction,
and property.

342
00:29:15,920 --> 00:29:18,480
All of this area is your area? Yes.

343
00:29:26,600 --> 00:29:29,320
Haile's building this block of
apartments for Ethiopia's

344
00:29:29,320 --> 00:29:31,080
growing middle classes.

345
00:29:37,720 --> 00:29:42,480
In terms of Africa, where do you see
Addis Ababa as a capital city,

346
00:29:42,480 --> 00:29:44,680
amongst all the other
capital cities?

347
00:29:53,280 --> 00:29:55,680
This is the
Haile Gebrselassie pace, man!

348
00:30:10,120 --> 00:30:13,760
The next morning, I headed to the
outskirts of Addis.

349
00:30:15,120 --> 00:30:17,680
I was here to find out
more about what's fuelling

350
00:30:17,680 --> 00:30:20,080
Ethiopia's booming economy.

351
00:30:20,080 --> 00:30:24,280
It's factories like this, making
goods for Western consumers.

352
00:30:25,960 --> 00:30:28,560
How are you? I'm fine. Lovely to
meet you.

353
00:30:52,000 --> 00:30:54,160
Esther Maguse runs the
cutting department.

354
00:30:56,520 --> 00:30:58,040
Let's have a look.

355
00:30:59,560 --> 00:31:04,520
Made in Ethiopia. Normally, when we
look at clothes in the UK,

356
00:31:04,520 --> 00:31:07,760
it usually says, "Made in China"
or, "Made in India."

357
00:31:07,760 --> 00:31:09,840
So, for me, this is a surprise.

358
00:31:23,640 --> 00:31:27,680
There are 1,500 workers here, and
most of them are women.

359
00:31:27,680 --> 00:31:30,920
They work long hours to earn
just £45 a week.

360
00:31:32,160 --> 00:31:36,440
Just one pair of the shoes they make
can sell for more than that.

361
00:31:36,440 --> 00:31:40,280
This is the...? Hand stitching
department. Hand stitching? Yeah.

362
00:31:55,280 --> 00:31:59,600
And how does this work compare to
the work you did with your family?

363
00:32:04,680 --> 00:32:07,440
This might look like a low-paid
sweatshop

364
00:32:07,440 --> 00:32:11,800
but, compared to subsistence
farming, this is a pretty good job.

365
00:32:11,800 --> 00:32:15,120
It was factories like this that
powered the boom

366
00:32:15,120 --> 00:32:17,560
in Asian economies like China's.

367
00:32:17,560 --> 00:32:21,280
Countries like China and India
used manufacturing

368
00:32:21,280 --> 00:32:23,760
to become super economies.

369
00:32:23,760 --> 00:32:27,600
Maybe this is Ethiopia's
first step in that direction.

370
00:32:33,720 --> 00:32:36,920
Chinese companies are starting
to take advantage

371
00:32:36,920 --> 00:32:40,800
of the cheap labour here, and are
actually setting up factories

372
00:32:40,800 --> 00:32:44,000
across Africa, and Chinese
investment has brought other things

373
00:32:44,000 --> 00:32:45,360
to the country too.

374
00:32:51,320 --> 00:32:54,560
So, this is, like, the equivalent of
the Eurostar.

375
00:32:54,560 --> 00:32:57,960
Except we're going from Ethiopia
to Djibouti.

376
00:32:59,680 --> 00:33:02,360
Thank you. Ameseginalehu.

377
00:33:05,600 --> 00:33:09,000
Look at this brand-new station.

378
00:33:09,000 --> 00:33:14,080
Floors nice and new.
Chinese-built train as well.

379
00:33:14,080 --> 00:33:18,600
This train is vital
for Ethiopia's industrial dream.

380
00:33:18,600 --> 00:33:22,480
To be a real global player, Ethiopia
needs to be able to ship

381
00:33:22,480 --> 00:33:25,360
its goods abroad, but it's
landlocked so it relies

382
00:33:25,360 --> 00:33:29,480
on the port of neighbouring Djibouti
for its exports and imports.

383
00:33:31,480 --> 00:33:34,840
Sorry, I'm in your way again.
Are you going to Djibouti?

384
00:33:38,480 --> 00:33:40,320
What's your name?

385
00:33:40,320 --> 00:33:43,160
If you want to chat with 12 hours
to go, come over. OK!

386
00:33:46,760 --> 00:33:50,840
Very punctual,
eight o'clock on the dot.

387
00:33:52,080 --> 00:33:55,040
We're just moving off.
I'd better settle in,

388
00:33:55,040 --> 00:33:59,200
because this is a 12 hour journey,
almost 500 miles along.

389
00:34:05,920 --> 00:34:08,320
The line is fully electrified.

390
00:34:08,320 --> 00:34:12,280
It travels northeast from Addis,
all the way across the border

391
00:34:12,280 --> 00:34:14,040
to neighbouring Djibouti.

392
00:34:15,400 --> 00:34:16,880
Wow.

393
00:34:18,920 --> 00:34:22,000
EXCITED CHATTER

394
00:34:22,000 --> 00:34:25,920
We've stopped at the stop
just before the border,

395
00:34:25,920 --> 00:34:29,280
before we get into Djibouti,
and the train sprung into life.

396
00:34:31,120 --> 00:34:33,960
We've got people screaming and
shouting, left, right, and centre,

397
00:34:33,960 --> 00:34:36,960
people bringing on food,
people bringing on grass.

398
00:34:36,960 --> 00:34:38,400
Pushing and shoving.

399
00:34:43,960 --> 00:34:48,160
Cargo trains used this line for bulk
exports, but it's also used

400
00:34:48,160 --> 00:34:51,520
by ordinary people buying
and selling pretty much everything.

401
00:34:53,080 --> 00:34:55,560
This is Chard? Yes.

402
00:34:55,560 --> 00:34:58,320
And what do you do with this?

403
00:35:00,400 --> 00:35:03,000
How does this train compare
to the old train?

404
00:35:14,160 --> 00:35:17,600
I wanted to talk to Medina,
the lady I'd met when I first

405
00:35:17,600 --> 00:35:19,720
boarded the train.

406
00:35:19,720 --> 00:35:24,320
How are you? Good. How are you?
Yeah, good.

407
00:35:24,320 --> 00:35:25,760
We spoke earlier.

408
00:35:25,760 --> 00:35:30,800
Medina was born in Djibouti, but she
now lives in the United States.

409
00:35:31,040 --> 00:35:33,040
I came there as a refugee.

410
00:35:33,040 --> 00:35:37,320
As a young girl, you know,
but that was over 20 years ago.

411
00:35:37,320 --> 00:35:42,240
We had a civil war in Djibouti, so
it wasn't safe for us to live there.

412
00:35:42,240 --> 00:35:46,240
And I was about, maybe, 12, 13
at the time.

413
00:35:47,360 --> 00:35:49,720
And we stay here for four years
in the camp.

414
00:35:51,760 --> 00:35:56,600
Do you think people really know
what it's like to be a refugee?

415
00:35:56,600 --> 00:35:59,400
You're not going to know until you
live in the camp, and see

416
00:35:59,400 --> 00:36:03,040
that you have to go get water.
Dig water from the ground,

417
00:36:03,040 --> 00:36:04,960
or ask for a kilo of rice.

418
00:36:06,320 --> 00:36:09,400
You have to live there in order
for you to understand,

419
00:36:09,400 --> 00:36:10,720
to feel that.

420
00:36:10,720 --> 00:36:15,120
I get emotional because I've been
there, as a little girl.

421
00:36:15,120 --> 00:36:16,920
So I remember those days.

422
00:36:21,920 --> 00:36:25,640
Why did you decide to come back,
and bring the kids over as well?

423
00:36:25,640 --> 00:36:27,720
I want them to know exactly
where they come from.

424
00:36:27,720 --> 00:36:30,880
Teach them that there is more
to learn from the people,

425
00:36:30,880 --> 00:36:33,040
their grandparents and, you know,
the tribes.

426
00:36:41,120 --> 00:36:45,800
I think Medina's got a classic
immigrant story.

427
00:36:47,560 --> 00:36:51,280
Actually, it's more than that
because she was a refugee as well.

428
00:36:53,520 --> 00:36:56,840
And it's funny, it makes me
think about my childhood,

429
00:36:56,840 --> 00:37:00,000
because I've never seen
myself as an immigrant.

430
00:37:00,000 --> 00:37:04,480
But, maybe, it's that background.

431
00:37:04,480 --> 00:37:09,560
It's my parents' sense
of being African,

432
00:37:09,760 --> 00:37:14,840
and wanting to instil
that African culture into me,

433
00:37:15,880 --> 00:37:19,680
that's made me who I am today.

434
00:37:19,680 --> 00:37:23,280
And, you know, it makes you a
survivor, it makes you strong,

435
00:37:23,280 --> 00:37:28,240
it makes you, you know, makes you
feel like you have to compete

436
00:37:29,880 --> 00:37:32,120
against all odds.

437
00:37:32,120 --> 00:37:35,360
And, I think, that's what Medina
wants her kids to get from here.

438
00:37:35,360 --> 00:37:36,720
She wants to get that.

439
00:37:36,720 --> 00:37:39,840
She wants them to have that,
that fighting spirit,

440
00:37:39,840 --> 00:37:42,040
and never forget who they are.

441
00:37:46,360 --> 00:37:50,400
The war that drove Medina
out of Djibouti ended in 1994.

442
00:37:52,120 --> 00:37:55,720
Ethiopia also had its own long
and brutal conflict.

443
00:37:57,080 --> 00:38:00,920
Colonial powers left Africa
wrecked with civil wars.

444
00:38:00,920 --> 00:38:02,800
Nearly all of them are over now.

445
00:38:04,600 --> 00:38:09,640
But there's one notorious war
that never seems to end.

446
00:38:12,080 --> 00:38:14,160
I was heading
to neighbouring Somalia.

447
00:38:22,680 --> 00:38:25,760
Just about to touch down
in Mogadishu.

448
00:38:25,760 --> 00:38:28,560
I'll be honest with you, I'm feeling
a little bit nervous

449
00:38:28,560 --> 00:38:32,240
because all you ever hear
about Mogadishu in the news

450
00:38:32,240 --> 00:38:34,040
is just about how dangerous it is.

451
00:38:36,480 --> 00:38:38,520
That was an interesting landing.

452
00:38:42,800 --> 00:38:44,280
Here we go.

453
00:38:44,280 --> 00:38:46,760
Well, we've touched down
safely enough.

454
00:38:49,480 --> 00:38:53,320
Mogadishu is one of the most
dangerous cities in the world.

455
00:38:55,600 --> 00:39:00,440
Just coming out the airport now,
our vehicle's over this way.

456
00:39:03,520 --> 00:39:06,960
Assassinations, terrorist attacks,
and kidnappings are common.

457
00:39:09,400 --> 00:39:13,320
And this isn't an ordinary car.
This has got... It's armour plated.

458
00:39:13,320 --> 00:39:17,520
You can see it's got bullet-proof
glass. This door weighs a tonne.

459
00:39:25,600 --> 00:39:29,120
I was checking into my hotel,
called Chelsea Village.

460
00:39:33,560 --> 00:39:36,320
This is where I'm staying. From
outside it doesn't look like much,

461
00:39:36,320 --> 00:39:39,800
but when you get inside you can see
how they've styled it up.

462
00:39:39,800 --> 00:39:43,120
These are the rooms, basically,
they are containers, which,

463
00:39:43,120 --> 00:39:46,160
if you've been to East London,
you'll see they're all the rage.

464
00:39:46,160 --> 00:39:49,560
They've even named the streets that
the containers and rooms are on

465
00:39:49,560 --> 00:39:51,040
famous London streets.

466
00:39:51,040 --> 00:39:54,400
It just gives you something familiar
to log on to,

467
00:39:54,400 --> 00:39:57,760
when you're staying somewhere
that's so hostile.

468
00:39:57,760 --> 00:40:00,840
And look at this, blast walls.

469
00:40:00,840 --> 00:40:04,240
You don't see that in hotels
in capital cities.

470
00:40:05,840 --> 00:40:09,280
Until recently, Somalia was ruled
by an Islamic terror group

471
00:40:09,280 --> 00:40:10,360
called al-Shabaab.

472
00:40:14,240 --> 00:40:19,120
But since 2007, an African
military force called AMISOM

473
00:40:19,120 --> 00:40:22,400
has been fighting to get
the country back under control.

474
00:40:24,360 --> 00:40:26,760
Look at all these vehicles,
all fully armoured.

475
00:40:26,760 --> 00:40:28,840
Machine guns everywhere.

476
00:40:35,120 --> 00:40:37,960
I knew I was going to be going out
on patrol today,

477
00:40:37,960 --> 00:40:41,120
and I just had this, like,
nervous feeling bubbling about

478
00:40:41,120 --> 00:40:42,360
in my stomach all night.

479
00:40:44,080 --> 00:40:48,560
AMISOM soldiers come from five
different African countries.

480
00:40:48,560 --> 00:40:52,760
In 2011, they managed to force
al-Shabaab out of Mogadishu.

481
00:40:54,240 --> 00:40:58,440
But most of the rest of the country
is still lawless, and AMISOM

482
00:40:58,440 --> 00:41:01,920
are fighting to win it back
inch by inch.

483
00:41:05,240 --> 00:41:10,240
This place just looks utterly
devastated, utterly.

484
00:41:10,480 --> 00:41:14,120
I mean, we're going through
a main town

485
00:41:14,120 --> 00:41:17,360
and there is not a single building

486
00:41:17,360 --> 00:41:20,000
that is standing,
or that hasn't been...

487
00:41:20,000 --> 00:41:22,240
..seen some sort of destruction.

488
00:41:25,480 --> 00:41:28,120
We were heading towards
the front line of the war.

489
00:41:38,680 --> 00:41:43,600
So before you came, was all of this
area under control of al-Shabaab?

490
00:41:50,480 --> 00:41:54,120
If you've removed al-Shabaab
from this area, where are they now?

491
00:41:54,120 --> 00:41:55,360
Where is their stronghold?

492
00:42:27,040 --> 00:42:29,560
Is this not even more dangerous

493
00:42:29,560 --> 00:42:32,720
than a conventional
challenge of war,

494
00:42:32,720 --> 00:42:34,960
because you don't know where
they're going to come from?

495
00:42:56,400 --> 00:42:59,920
War and famine have displaced
more than two million people.

496
00:42:59,920 --> 00:43:02,560
Hundreds of thousands have died.

497
00:43:06,400 --> 00:43:09,440
We'd reached our destination,
a town called Afgooye,

498
00:43:09,440 --> 00:43:11,160
18 miles from Mogadishu.

499
00:43:13,840 --> 00:43:17,400
This used to be one of al-Shabaab's
most important strongholds.

500
00:43:25,200 --> 00:43:27,800
These sort of areas,
which are unknown,

501
00:43:27,800 --> 00:43:32,320
you just start feeling worried. You
can see our guys, the AMISOM guys,

502
00:43:32,320 --> 00:43:34,000
have created a perimeter.

503
00:43:34,000 --> 00:43:38,320
They've put two armoured vehicles
blocking that entrance,

504
00:43:38,320 --> 00:43:40,840
so no-one can take us by surprise.

505
00:43:46,680 --> 00:43:49,080
Plan is to go and speak to some
of the local population,

506
00:43:49,080 --> 00:43:50,920
to find out what life is like here.

507
00:43:50,920 --> 00:43:52,240
But before we could do that,

508
00:43:52,240 --> 00:43:54,400
we had to speak to the local leader,
to get the OK.

509
00:43:55,640 --> 00:43:57,960
I think everything's all right.
This way, yeah?

510
00:44:03,200 --> 00:44:05,840
Been told we've only got five
minutes here,

511
00:44:05,840 --> 00:44:09,600
and this place has been hit
by an al-Shabaab plenty of times.

512
00:44:09,600 --> 00:44:13,600
They've had IEDs and bombs
all the time, so, yeah.

513
00:44:28,280 --> 00:44:30,560
They've apparently found
someone for us to talk to.

514
00:44:30,560 --> 00:44:34,440
I'm not sure of what it's going to
be like, because suddenly we turn up

515
00:44:34,440 --> 00:44:36,800
with 20 soldiers and
want to speak to them.

516
00:44:42,760 --> 00:44:45,960
See, big problem here,
we've not got much time.

517
00:44:45,960 --> 00:44:49,840
And, even though the area is
supposed to be relatively safe,

518
00:44:49,840 --> 00:44:53,240
people here still don't feel
comfortable to talk

519
00:44:53,240 --> 00:44:54,520
in front of camera.

520
00:44:59,600 --> 00:45:02,880
I think we might have to go.
What's happening, Captain?

521
00:45:03,840 --> 00:45:05,280
Yeah, yeah, of course.

522
00:45:06,160 --> 00:45:08,280
Why would they not talk
to us, the people,

523
00:45:08,280 --> 00:45:09,760
why didn't they want to talk?

524
00:45:30,840 --> 00:45:32,880
That's something
that I'm starting to learn,

525
00:45:32,880 --> 00:45:35,520
that the nature of warfare here
is completely different

526
00:45:35,520 --> 00:45:36,760
to what you'd imagine.

527
00:45:36,760 --> 00:45:39,680
It's not the AMISOM forces
vs Al-Shabaab,

528
00:45:39,680 --> 00:45:41,760
and al-Shabaab on that line.

529
00:45:41,760 --> 00:45:43,240
Al-Shabaab could be anywhere.

530
00:45:43,240 --> 00:45:45,680
And that's what these people
are worried about.

531
00:45:52,000 --> 00:45:54,840
As we headed back to Mogadishu,
we got some news showing

532
00:45:54,840 --> 00:45:58,880
just how active al-Shabaab
were in this area.

533
00:45:58,880 --> 00:46:01,520
We've been told that al-Shabaab
has known that we've been

534
00:46:01,520 --> 00:46:06,320
in the country, and they've told
the people in this area, Afgooye,

535
00:46:06,320 --> 00:46:09,880
that if any of them speaks to us,
that they will kill them.

536
00:46:09,880 --> 00:46:12,600
They basically threatened them,

537
00:46:12,600 --> 00:46:16,800
which explains why they were
really afraid to talk to us.

538
00:46:16,800 --> 00:46:18,920
It's worrying on so many levels.

539
00:46:18,920 --> 00:46:22,840
Worrying for those people,
but also worrying for us,

540
00:46:22,840 --> 00:46:25,600
in terms of how do they
know we're here?

541
00:46:30,040 --> 00:46:34,840
It costs billions of pounds to keep
the 20,000 AMISOM soldiers fighting

542
00:46:34,840 --> 00:46:39,120
in Somalia, but there are plans
to start withdrawing the troops.

543
00:46:39,120 --> 00:46:42,240
At some point, Somalis themselves
are going to have to

544
00:46:42,240 --> 00:46:43,760
take over this struggle.

545
00:46:53,440 --> 00:46:56,400
Since al-Shabaab
was driven out of Mogadishu,

546
00:46:56,400 --> 00:46:57,920
the city has been controlled

547
00:46:57,920 --> 00:47:00,240
by an internationally
backed government.

548
00:47:00,240 --> 00:47:02,480
But, on average,
40 people are killed

549
00:47:02,480 --> 00:47:06,760
in terror attacks every month in the
capital, and more are injured.

550
00:47:17,520 --> 00:47:20,960
Everyone is just...on high alert,

551
00:47:20,960 --> 00:47:25,320
just stressed, because you just
don't know what's going to happen.

552
00:47:28,240 --> 00:47:31,840
The threat here is very real,
especially for women.

553
00:47:32,960 --> 00:47:37,400
When al-Shabaab ruled the city,
women were treated like slaves.

554
00:47:37,400 --> 00:47:41,520
They were banned from driving,
talking to men who weren't family,

555
00:47:41,520 --> 00:47:44,960
and even leaving home
without a male relative.

556
00:47:44,960 --> 00:47:47,400
Punishments for breaking
al-Shabaab's rules

557
00:47:47,400 --> 00:47:49,280
included public stoning to death.

558
00:47:51,840 --> 00:47:55,520
But since al-Shabaab were forced
out, things are looking up.

559
00:47:56,920 --> 00:48:01,280
I'm just on my way to meet
a female basketball team,

560
00:48:01,280 --> 00:48:03,600
based here in Mogadishu.

561
00:48:03,600 --> 00:48:06,520
I don't really know that much
about women's sport in this country,

562
00:48:06,520 --> 00:48:10,360
but what I have been told
is that al-Shabaab has put a ban

563
00:48:10,360 --> 00:48:15,400
on all women playing sport, and
these women are defying the odds.

564
00:48:15,680 --> 00:48:18,080
I'm really interested
in meeting them.

565
00:48:18,080 --> 00:48:19,680
And they play my sport,

566
00:48:19,680 --> 00:48:22,520
so I think this is going to be
a special moment,

567
00:48:22,520 --> 00:48:24,760
to play basketball in Mogadishu.

568
00:48:28,680 --> 00:48:31,000
Everything about this place
is so surreal.

569
00:48:31,000 --> 00:48:34,680
I mean, first of all,
I'm in an armoured vehicle,
on a basketball court.

570
00:48:34,680 --> 00:48:37,240
The great thing is I've been told
that, for the first time,

571
00:48:37,240 --> 00:48:39,640
it's safe enough to take off my PPE.

572
00:48:41,200 --> 00:48:43,360
That's so much easier.

573
00:48:43,360 --> 00:48:45,440
I've haven't been in this chair
for a while.

574
00:48:55,400 --> 00:48:57,280
How are you guys doing?

575
00:48:57,280 --> 00:48:58,800
This is really cool.

576
00:49:00,120 --> 00:49:01,640
Oh, yeah.

577
00:49:03,760 --> 00:49:04,760
Yeah.

578
00:49:07,320 --> 00:49:08,600
Shall we play a game?

579
00:49:11,680 --> 00:49:14,760
These girls are one of eight teams
that play in a regional league.

580
00:49:15,720 --> 00:49:17,200
Shot!

581
00:49:17,200 --> 00:49:18,960
They've got some skills.

582
00:49:28,520 --> 00:49:30,160
They're good. They're good.

583
00:49:30,160 --> 00:49:32,360
They've got good basic
shooting technique.

584
00:49:32,360 --> 00:49:35,440
I think they're just enjoying
themselves, which is great.

585
00:49:35,440 --> 00:49:38,080
Although al-Shabaab aren't
in charge here any more,

586
00:49:38,080 --> 00:49:40,920
it's still a very
conservative society.

587
00:49:51,640 --> 00:49:55,760
Ayesha, tell me what was it
like for you when you first decided,

588
00:49:55,760 --> 00:49:58,000
"I want to play basketball."

589
00:49:58,000 --> 00:50:00,800
What did your parents
and your family say?

590
00:50:08,200 --> 00:50:12,920
Why is it so difficult for women
to play sport, here in Somalia?

591
00:50:34,240 --> 00:50:38,200
For me, to hear that, is just...
It's mind boggling.

592
00:50:38,200 --> 00:50:42,480
You know, I thought I had
to struggle to play sport.

593
00:50:42,480 --> 00:50:47,400
But for you to say that, you know,
at any moment because you play sport

594
00:50:48,120 --> 00:50:51,840
you could be killed, and you're
still prepared to carry on,

595
00:50:51,840 --> 00:50:54,880
I think you're both extremely
brave people.

596
00:51:35,280 --> 00:51:40,240
It just makes me think, you know,
what those girls are going through

597
00:51:40,400 --> 00:51:44,480
because they have to deal
with all of this insecurity

598
00:51:44,480 --> 00:51:46,280
every day of their lives.

599
00:51:46,280 --> 00:51:50,880
And the fact that they're willing
to give up everything,

600
00:51:50,880 --> 00:51:54,400
potentially lose their lives,
just to play sport

601
00:51:54,400 --> 00:51:57,440
and they know the significance
of what they're doing,

602
00:51:57,440 --> 00:52:01,200
they know how much it could
change things here, for women

603
00:52:01,200 --> 00:52:04,200
in Somalia, and probably women
all over Africa.

604
00:52:10,640 --> 00:52:14,480
During Somalia's civil war,
hundreds of thousands of people

605
00:52:14,480 --> 00:52:16,640
have fled abroad.

606
00:52:16,640 --> 00:52:19,800
A lot of professionals have gone
to live in the West.

607
00:52:19,800 --> 00:52:22,520
If this country is going
to have a chance of rebuilding,

608
00:52:22,520 --> 00:52:24,840
it needs some of them to return.

609
00:52:25,960 --> 00:52:29,240
My name's Ade. I know you very well.

610
00:52:29,240 --> 00:52:31,560
I've heard about the great
things you're doing here.

611
00:52:31,560 --> 00:52:33,520
I'm really interested
to talk to you.

612
00:52:33,520 --> 00:52:35,840
Thank you very much,
thank you for coming.

613
00:52:38,040 --> 00:52:40,280
Do you want to show me around?

614
00:52:41,680 --> 00:52:42,920
This is our reception.

615
00:52:42,920 --> 00:52:44,680
Hi, hello, hello.

616
00:52:46,040 --> 00:52:49,400
Shamsa Abdullahi Bybook
is a doctor and midwife

617
00:52:49,400 --> 00:52:52,600
who lived in the UK
for nearly 30 years.

618
00:52:52,600 --> 00:52:54,880
We have here our operating room.

619
00:52:56,720 --> 00:53:00,800
In 2016, she gave up working
for the NHS, to set up one

620
00:53:00,800 --> 00:53:03,840
of Mogadishu's only specialist
maternity hospitals.

621
00:53:05,280 --> 00:53:08,520
Here, we have got
the water bath room.

622
00:53:08,520 --> 00:53:13,000
It's not as sophisticated
as the UK, but it's initial step.

623
00:53:14,200 --> 00:53:18,640
Is this your office, here?
This is my office, yes.

624
00:53:18,640 --> 00:53:22,640
How difficult was the decision
to come back to Somalia?

625
00:53:22,640 --> 00:53:24,840
Because it's not an easy
country to live in.

626
00:53:24,840 --> 00:53:26,840
No, it's not easy.

627
00:53:26,840 --> 00:53:30,280
But, me and my husband,
we used to come for...

628
00:53:30,280 --> 00:53:35,320
..vacations, so when we come here
and we see so much difficulty,

629
00:53:36,760 --> 00:53:39,800
we thought that it's about time
to move back,

630
00:53:39,800 --> 00:53:42,600
and help the people who need
our services.

631
00:53:45,080 --> 00:53:50,120
In Somalia, one in seven children
dies before the age of five.

632
00:53:51,960 --> 00:53:54,240
That's thousands of
little kids, dying

633
00:53:54,240 --> 00:53:56,880
before they've even started school.

634
00:53:56,880 --> 00:54:00,840
And one in 12 women dies
due to pregnancy-related causes.

635
00:54:02,760 --> 00:54:05,400
This is called Resuscitare.

636
00:54:05,400 --> 00:54:08,840
Who is this here? Is this a boy
or a girl? This is a boy.

637
00:54:08,840 --> 00:54:11,160
The boy was born four hours ago.

638
00:54:11,160 --> 00:54:15,320
Four hours ago? He was floppy
when he was born.

639
00:54:15,320 --> 00:54:18,600
And he was blue like this cloth.

640
00:54:18,600 --> 00:54:22,640
So we had to bring him in
and resuscitate him.

641
00:54:24,080 --> 00:54:27,560
What would have happened
to this baby?

642
00:54:27,560 --> 00:54:30,360
You know, if they hadn't
had this treatment, or been able

643
00:54:30,360 --> 00:54:32,320
to come to this hospital?

644
00:54:32,320 --> 00:54:37,360
Most of women having babies,
they go to a midwife, home,

645
00:54:37,760 --> 00:54:42,000
if the baby comes out floppy
and not breathing, she will say,

646
00:54:42,000 --> 00:54:44,800
"Well, this baby's not alive,"

647
00:54:44,800 --> 00:54:48,680
put them there,
and cover from head to toe.

648
00:54:48,680 --> 00:54:51,920
This baby's dead,
that's what they do.

649
00:54:51,920 --> 00:54:56,160
And this baby would need only
resuscitation and oxygen.

650
00:54:56,160 --> 00:54:57,600
That baby would survive.

651
00:54:57,600 --> 00:55:01,680
So there are so many babies
who could have survived? Exactly.

652
00:55:01,680 --> 00:55:05,080
But, literally, they've been written
off just because the midwife

653
00:55:05,080 --> 00:55:07,520
doesn't have the knowledge
or the experience?

654
00:55:07,520 --> 00:55:08,800
Doesn't have the knowledge,

655
00:55:08,800 --> 00:55:11,640
and doesn't have the instruments,
and doesn't have the experience.

656
00:55:13,240 --> 00:55:15,680
Dr Shamsa is not alone.

657
00:55:15,680 --> 00:55:19,360
Many Somalis who fled the war
are returning.

658
00:55:19,360 --> 00:55:23,360
Even the Mayor of Mogadishu is a
former council worker from London.

659
00:55:24,800 --> 00:55:29,680
What is it like to work in a place
like this where, potentially,

660
00:55:30,320 --> 00:55:31,920
your life could be in danger,

661
00:55:31,920 --> 00:55:35,760
the life of the kids you're trying
to save could be in danger as well?

662
00:55:35,760 --> 00:55:37,400
It is very risky.

663
00:55:37,400 --> 00:55:41,960
However, I believe if I die
today, it's worth it,

664
00:55:41,960 --> 00:55:46,440
because I have saved a few babies.

665
00:55:46,440 --> 00:55:51,480
And I'm intending to do so,
for the rest of my life.

666
00:55:52,440 --> 00:55:57,400
In that course, if I get injured,
or shot, or get killed,

667
00:55:59,280 --> 00:56:02,680
I'm prepared for that.

668
00:56:02,680 --> 00:56:06,040
I'm prepared to die for that.

669
00:56:06,040 --> 00:56:07,800
I'm just... I'm blown away.

670
00:56:09,240 --> 00:56:10,920
The message I'm sending is,

671
00:56:10,920 --> 00:56:14,800
to particularly the Somali people
who fled from their country,

672
00:56:14,800 --> 00:56:18,320
they have to think to come
back to their country,

673
00:56:18,320 --> 00:56:20,280
and build their country.

674
00:56:20,280 --> 00:56:24,040
We are moving forward,
starting from the government,

675
00:56:24,040 --> 00:56:27,760
from the people, from the mother
who is delivering the baby.

676
00:56:27,760 --> 00:56:31,240
We are alive, and thriving,
and ready to move forward.

677
00:56:31,240 --> 00:56:35,640
That's beautiful. I mean,
it's making me emotional.

678
00:56:35,640 --> 00:56:38,960
I'm African as well,
so to hear this...

679
00:56:38,960 --> 00:56:40,800
Yeah... I know...

680
00:56:42,200 --> 00:56:44,720
Shall we meet the mother? Yeah.

681
00:56:45,800 --> 00:56:48,640
This is Ikram. Hello, Ikram.

682
00:56:48,640 --> 00:56:50,400
Congratulations.

683
00:56:59,000 --> 00:57:02,720
How does it feel, to have your baby
in your arms now?

684
00:57:06,320 --> 00:57:08,520
What are your hopes
for your baby's future?

685
00:57:08,520 --> 00:57:10,840
Maybe he'll become a doctor
like Dr Shamsa?

686
00:57:17,680 --> 00:57:20,600
The war against al-Shabaab
is far from won.

687
00:57:21,800 --> 00:57:26,520
But what strikes me about it, is
that it's being fought by Africans,

688
00:57:26,520 --> 00:57:30,280
from the AMISOM troops I met,
to people like Dr Shamsa

689
00:57:30,280 --> 00:57:33,160
who are risking everything
to come home.

690
00:57:40,480 --> 00:57:42,760
It's made me feel really emotional.

691
00:57:42,760 --> 00:57:47,600
Meeting some of these people
who've shown incredible resilience

692
00:57:47,600 --> 00:57:52,440
under some really challenging
situations, and, you know,

693
00:57:52,440 --> 00:57:57,600
these people have been prepared
to give up absolutely everything

694
00:57:57,600 --> 00:58:00,640
in order to try and rebuild
their countries.

695
00:58:00,640 --> 00:58:03,680
And for me that is truly humbling.

696
00:58:03,680 --> 00:58:05,480
But you know what?
It's not over yet.

697
00:58:05,480 --> 00:58:09,520
I've still got a lot more of
this great continent to see.

698
00:58:09,520 --> 00:58:12,000
Next time, I'm in Southern Africa.

699
00:58:14,960 --> 00:58:18,080
And I'll see the natural
world under attack.

700
00:58:20,520 --> 00:58:21,520
Oh, man!

