﻿1
00:00:01,600 --> 00:00:05,640
I'm on a journey around
the Mediterranean.

2
00:00:09,080 --> 00:00:13,720
It's the sea that attracts
around a third of world tourism.

3
00:00:17,240 --> 00:00:19,000
The birthplace of civilisations...

4
00:00:19,000 --> 00:00:20,640
Just look at that!

5
00:00:22,880 --> 00:00:24,720
..where extraordinary wealth...

6
00:00:24,720 --> 00:00:27,040
This one has got a helicopter on it.

7
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..meets shocking poverty.

8
00:00:29,400 --> 00:00:32,440
I take my flipping hat off
to them, I really do.

9
00:00:32,440 --> 00:00:34,640
Look at the scale
of the destruction!

10
00:00:34,640 --> 00:00:37,000
They are on the edge of the Med.

11
00:00:38,440 --> 00:00:41,440
It is a sea of wild extremes.

12
00:00:41,440 --> 00:00:43,200
Yes, yes! Look!

13
00:00:46,640 --> 00:00:48,400
On this second part of my journey,

14
00:00:48,400 --> 00:00:51,920
I am travelling around
the eastern Mediterranean,

15
00:00:51,920 --> 00:00:53,960
from the island of Cyprus,

16
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across the sea to Lebanon

17
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and on to Israel and Gaza.

18
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It's a region of awesome beauty
and extreme landscapes...

19
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Look at that!

20
00:01:06,560 --> 00:01:09,280
That's not where we're going?
Yes. We are going there.

21
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..torn by bitter divisions.

22
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It's a fully active,
combat-ready patrol. Yeah, yeah.

23
00:01:17,320 --> 00:01:19,360
GUNSHOTS

24
00:01:20,600 --> 00:01:24,040
My God, there's somebody
living up here. Look.

25
00:01:24,040 --> 00:01:27,280
Have you ever been down here? No.

26
00:01:27,280 --> 00:01:32,120
In the eastern Med, ancient cultures
are struggling to survive

27
00:01:32,120 --> 00:01:34,600
in the face of daunting challenges.

28
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This is technology,
how you take money from the brain.

29
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CHEERING

30
00:01:58,760 --> 00:02:02,040
This isn't what you were
expecting, was it?

31
00:02:02,040 --> 00:02:06,480
I am up a mountain, on an island
in the middle of the Mediterranean

32
00:02:06,480 --> 00:02:10,000
and I'm starting
this leg of my journey in Cyprus!

33
00:02:12,160 --> 00:02:13,600
Look at this!

34
00:02:13,600 --> 00:02:16,240
There's a ski lift here.

35
00:02:16,240 --> 00:02:19,960
There is a ski resort
in the mountains of Cyprus.

36
00:02:19,960 --> 00:02:21,720
I had no idea.

37
00:02:21,720 --> 00:02:26,400
The Mediterranean
is a place of such extremes!

38
00:02:26,400 --> 00:02:29,640
Part of the reason I wanted to come
up here, into the mountains,

39
00:02:29,640 --> 00:02:33,440
is because I think most of us
think of Cyprus

40
00:02:33,440 --> 00:02:36,560
as being a place for summer sun,

41
00:02:36,560 --> 00:02:40,520
but there is a whole world
of life up here,

42
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well away from the beaches.

43
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At the eastern end
of the Mediterranean,

44
00:02:50,160 --> 00:02:53,800
Cyprus has sat at the crossroads
of civilisations, cultures

45
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and great religions for centuries.

46
00:02:57,080 --> 00:03:01,720
We're on our way to a village
and life up here in the hills,

47
00:03:01,720 --> 00:03:05,000
in the mountains, is said
to revolve around three things,

48
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God, goats and grappa.

49
00:03:11,880 --> 00:03:14,320
Cyprus is a divided island.

50
00:03:14,320 --> 00:03:17,240
Christian Greek Cypriots
now live in the south,

51
00:03:17,240 --> 00:03:20,840
with mainly Muslim Turkish
Cypriots in the north.

52
00:03:20,840 --> 00:03:23,880
In the south, I was going to see
and stay with the head of a large,

53
00:03:23,880 --> 00:03:28,040
proud family of Greek Cypriots,
a goat farmer with a big character.

54
00:03:28,040 --> 00:03:29,560
Michalis!

55
00:03:34,120 --> 00:03:35,960
Simon, very nice to meet you.

56
00:03:42,960 --> 00:03:45,160
We're going to walk up.

57
00:03:49,080 --> 00:03:51,080
Here, here, here.

58
00:03:51,080 --> 00:03:53,680
I'm impressed, Michalis!
Look at that! Hey!

59
00:03:53,680 --> 00:03:56,640
GOATS BLEAT

60
00:03:56,640 --> 00:03:59,360
Come on, come on! Inside!

61
00:03:59,360 --> 00:04:00,880
How many goats have you got?

62
00:04:13,320 --> 00:04:16,280
This is quite deep, this is...
Your roots are here.

63
00:04:41,600 --> 00:04:44,920
After Cyprus gained independence
from Britain in 1960,

64
00:04:44,920 --> 00:04:47,960
there were disputes and then
conflict between Turkish Cypriots

65
00:04:47,960 --> 00:04:51,760
and then Greek Cypriots -
even neighbours.

66
00:04:51,760 --> 00:04:53,600
Is it OK to come in?

67
00:04:53,600 --> 00:04:55,720
Come in, come in!

68
00:04:55,720 --> 00:04:58,120
VOICEOVER: In 1974,
Greek Cypriot generals

69
00:04:58,120 --> 00:04:59,960
helped seize power on the island.

70
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The Turkish Army
then invaded the north,

71
00:05:02,600 --> 00:05:05,320
ostensibly to protect
Turkish Cypriots.

72
00:05:06,680 --> 00:05:09,760
There was hand-to-hand
and street-to-street fighting,

73
00:05:09,760 --> 00:05:12,120
followed by the division
of the island.

74
00:05:12,120 --> 00:05:13,760
Relations between the two sides

75
00:05:13,760 --> 00:05:16,840
are still the subject
of heated debate.

76
00:05:16,840 --> 00:05:19,880
Do you remember a time
where Turkish Cypriots

77
00:05:19,880 --> 00:05:22,720
and Greek Cypriots
lived happily together?

78
00:05:41,480 --> 00:05:46,520
We are now nearly...
nearly four decades on from this,

79
00:05:46,840 --> 00:05:48,880
it's more than four decades,

80
00:05:48,880 --> 00:05:51,920
it's just unbelievable
that this situation

81
00:05:51,920 --> 00:05:53,720
is still existing today.

82
00:06:09,840 --> 00:06:13,280
THEY ALL SING

83
00:06:17,760 --> 00:06:20,560
SINGING CONTINUES

84
00:06:38,280 --> 00:06:41,920
It's not just families
where there is still disagreement.

85
00:06:41,920 --> 00:06:44,560
I headed towards
the capital, Nicosia.

86
00:06:44,560 --> 00:06:48,520
It's a city with a physical split
right down the middle.

87
00:06:49,840 --> 00:06:52,720
So, this wall here marks
part of the dividing line?

88
00:06:52,720 --> 00:06:56,560
Yes, this is the Buffer Zone.
And... Oh, my God, look!

89
00:06:56,560 --> 00:06:59,440
A barricade at the end
of the street!

90
00:06:59,440 --> 00:07:01,000
That is unbelievable.

91
00:07:03,080 --> 00:07:07,760
Nicosia is divided by a wall
and the so-called green line.

92
00:07:07,760 --> 00:07:11,160
A ceasefire, more than 40 years ago,
left Nicosia split

93
00:07:11,160 --> 00:07:13,200
between the Greek Cypriot
half of the city

94
00:07:13,200 --> 00:07:14,920
and the Turkish Cypriot zone.

95
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In the middle is a no-man's land,

96
00:07:21,560 --> 00:07:25,360
patrolled by a force
of British UN peacekeepers.

97
00:07:25,360 --> 00:07:27,160
Colonel Wildish, hello there.

98
00:07:27,160 --> 00:07:29,680
Welcome to Ledra Palace Hotel.
Thank you very much indeed.

99
00:07:29,680 --> 00:07:32,320
Good to see you.
Simon Reeve, nice to see you, too.

100
00:07:32,320 --> 00:07:34,760
Thanks for agreeing to meet us.
No problem at all.

101
00:07:34,760 --> 00:07:36,440
Thank you very much, thank you.

102
00:07:36,440 --> 00:07:38,600
VOICEOVER: Colonel Tim Wildish
and his men

103
00:07:38,600 --> 00:07:40,640
oversee the abandoned Buffer Zone,

104
00:07:40,640 --> 00:07:44,160
and help keep the peace
in Europe's last divided city.

105
00:07:44,160 --> 00:07:46,920
This is one
of seven official crossings,

106
00:07:46,920 --> 00:07:50,200
north to south, south to north.
North, south...

107
00:07:50,200 --> 00:07:54,200
North, south,
and this is the patrol track,

108
00:07:54,200 --> 00:07:56,720
which runs through the Buffer Zone.

109
00:07:58,080 --> 00:07:59,360
Ricardo?

110
00:07:59,360 --> 00:08:01,960
We're just going to...

111
00:08:01,960 --> 00:08:05,600
So, this is the Olympus Hotel
on the left-hand side. Right.

112
00:08:05,600 --> 00:08:08,480
Winston Churchill stayed
here several times,

113
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it was the only five-star
hotel at the time.

114
00:08:10,720 --> 00:08:13,320
It's seen happier days, hasn't it?
Seen better days, yeah.

115
00:08:13,320 --> 00:08:15,960
As has this part of the city.
As has all of this.

116
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These buildings have just
been abandoned and cleared out.

117
00:08:20,520 --> 00:08:24,120
Ahead, we've got a Turkish Cypriot
outpost, is that right?

118
00:08:24,120 --> 00:08:27,560
Are we allowed to film that,
or you'd rather we didn't?

119
00:08:27,560 --> 00:08:29,720
No, don't film that,
if you wouldn't mind. OK.

120
00:08:29,720 --> 00:08:34,040
What's the closest that
the two sides along the line?

121
00:08:34,040 --> 00:08:38,120
It goes down to about
two to three metres in places,

122
00:08:38,120 --> 00:08:40,560
so you get tensions,
you get low-level problems

123
00:08:40,560 --> 00:08:43,600
with discipline, throwing stones
at each other, that kind of thing.

124
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Stone-throwing sounds
like little stones,

125
00:08:45,640 --> 00:08:47,640
but it can be some pretty big rocks,

126
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launched from catapult-type things.

127
00:08:49,720 --> 00:08:52,960
Want we don't want is some sort
of low-level incident

128
00:08:52,960 --> 00:08:55,640
rapidly escalating into something
that gets out of control,

129
00:08:55,640 --> 00:08:57,640
and that's one of the reasons
that we're here,

130
00:08:57,640 --> 00:09:00,680
to keep things under control,
keep the status quo.

131
00:09:03,120 --> 00:09:06,960
This is actually
quite a huge area of the island

132
00:09:06,960 --> 00:09:09,200
that is in the Buffer Zone,

133
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something like 3% of all of Cyprus
is inside the Buffer Zone.

134
00:09:15,600 --> 00:09:19,160
My God, there's somebody
living up here! Look!

135
00:09:19,160 --> 00:09:21,960
You can somebody putting
their washing out.

136
00:09:21,960 --> 00:09:23,360
Yasou! Yeah.

137
00:09:23,360 --> 00:09:25,320
How long have you lived here?

138
00:09:28,680 --> 00:09:30,920
Have you ever been down here?

139
00:09:30,920 --> 00:09:32,040
No, no, no.

140
00:09:32,040 --> 00:09:34,800
You've never stood down here? No.

141
00:09:34,800 --> 00:09:37,720
What if you dropped
something down here?

142
00:09:37,720 --> 00:09:41,560
We are calling to the UN
and we are asking for help!

143
00:09:41,560 --> 00:09:45,360
You would have to ring the United
Nations for assistance? Yeah, yeah.

144
00:09:45,360 --> 00:09:47,360
Do you think there
will be a solution,

145
00:09:47,360 --> 00:09:49,960
do you think there will be peace?
No.

146
00:09:49,960 --> 00:09:52,920
No, immediately, you don't?
No, no. Why?

147
00:09:52,920 --> 00:09:54,680
Because, I don't know,

148
00:09:54,680 --> 00:09:57,320
Turkish people and Greek people,

149
00:09:57,320 --> 00:10:01,200
they hate each other for no reason,

150
00:10:01,200 --> 00:10:04,600
because before 30 years or more.

151
00:10:04,600 --> 00:10:07,000
VOICEOVER: I was stunned
to see this divide.

152
00:10:07,000 --> 00:10:09,280
We've got the UN on patrol again.

153
00:10:10,760 --> 00:10:13,080
Turkey says, perhaps
with some justification,

154
00:10:13,080 --> 00:10:16,200
it invaded the island
to protect Turkish Cypriots,

155
00:10:16,200 --> 00:10:17,840
but the Turks stayed.

156
00:10:19,040 --> 00:10:21,840
The European Court of Human Rights
has ruled the invasion

157
00:10:21,840 --> 00:10:23,760
and subsequent occupation

158
00:10:23,760 --> 00:10:26,600
of the northern third
of the island illegal.

159
00:10:26,600 --> 00:10:30,240
Decades of talks have done nothing
to resolve this bizarre situation,

160
00:10:30,240 --> 00:10:32,800
on an island in the European Union.

161
00:10:34,960 --> 00:10:37,360
I crossed the border
to find out more

162
00:10:37,360 --> 00:10:39,800
about Turkish
occupied northern Cyprus.

163
00:10:39,800 --> 00:10:41,560
Ezra? Hi, Ezra!

164
00:10:41,560 --> 00:10:42,840
Simon Reeve, nice to meet you.

165
00:10:42,840 --> 00:10:44,680
Nice to meet you, too! Welcome.

166
00:10:44,680 --> 00:10:46,720
Thank you very much
for coming to see us.

167
00:10:46,720 --> 00:10:49,240
Are you going to show me around?
Sure, let's go. Is that OK? Yeah.

168
00:10:49,240 --> 00:10:50,440
Thank you.

169
00:10:50,440 --> 00:10:53,400
Ezra is a Turkish Cypriot.

170
00:10:53,400 --> 00:10:56,040
Her family was one of thousands,
from both sides,

171
00:10:56,040 --> 00:10:57,640
uprooted by the conflict.

172
00:10:58,760 --> 00:11:02,120
My parents are from
the south of Cyprus,

173
00:11:02,120 --> 00:11:04,000
and they had to flee,

174
00:11:04,000 --> 00:11:08,200
they had to move to Kyrenia in 1974.

175
00:11:08,200 --> 00:11:10,040
So, they came north, why?

176
00:11:10,040 --> 00:11:11,640
There was a war.

177
00:11:11,640 --> 00:11:16,600
Greek Cypriot Army
attacked Turkish Cypriots.

178
00:11:16,600 --> 00:11:19,600
I mean, there was a lot of
fighting and people were scared.

179
00:11:19,600 --> 00:11:23,320
There was conflict and people
feared, not just... For their lives.

180
00:11:23,320 --> 00:11:26,720
For their lives? Definitely, and
there have been a lot of people

181
00:11:26,720 --> 00:11:30,760
who went missing, who died,
on both sides.

182
00:11:32,800 --> 00:11:34,440
Because of the occupation,

183
00:11:34,440 --> 00:11:38,720
the breakaway Turkish Cypriot state
is under an international embargo,

184
00:11:38,720 --> 00:11:41,680
which blocks its business,
financial, sporting,

185
00:11:41,680 --> 00:11:45,400
cultural and trade connections
with most of the planet.

186
00:11:45,400 --> 00:11:49,080
We feel that we are cut off
from the whole world.

187
00:11:49,080 --> 00:11:51,520
Everything has to go through Turkey,

188
00:11:51,520 --> 00:11:53,800
from flights to telephone lines

189
00:11:53,800 --> 00:11:55,960
to postal services.

190
00:11:55,960 --> 00:11:59,400
It sounds like it must
dominate life here?

191
00:11:59,400 --> 00:12:01,680
It does, it does dominate life.

192
00:12:01,680 --> 00:12:06,520
Of course, we have had
a big population transfer, too.

193
00:12:06,520 --> 00:12:10,720
Turkish people who
accepted to come and settle here

194
00:12:10,720 --> 00:12:14,240
were offered two years of salary,

195
00:12:14,240 --> 00:12:17,600
a house and agricultural land.
Wow.

196
00:12:17,600 --> 00:12:22,160
So, they were offered incentives
to come and settle in Cyprus,

197
00:12:22,160 --> 00:12:27,200
and, of course, this changes
the political will of the community.

198
00:12:27,400 --> 00:12:30,080
It takes away from the culture.

199
00:12:30,080 --> 00:12:35,000
So, there's almost been a degree
of social engineering, then?

200
00:12:35,000 --> 00:12:38,000
Definitely, definitely
there has been.

201
00:12:38,000 --> 00:12:39,640
And it still continues.

202
00:12:41,480 --> 00:12:44,040
Turkish Governments have encouraged
hundreds of thousands

203
00:12:44,040 --> 00:12:47,160
of Turks to settle here, and many
think they're trying to link

204
00:12:47,160 --> 00:12:49,920
Turkish Cyprus more closely
to Turkey.

205
00:12:49,920 --> 00:12:53,680
Settlers are now thought
to be more than half the population.

206
00:12:53,680 --> 00:12:56,520
Many Turkish Cypriots feel
they're more religious.

207
00:12:56,520 --> 00:13:00,880
The Turkish Government is paying
to open huge new mosques for them.

208
00:13:00,880 --> 00:13:04,240
The people who came
to Cyprus from Turkey

209
00:13:04,240 --> 00:13:08,760
were more from the conservative
rural areas of Turkey,

210
00:13:08,760 --> 00:13:11,320
who were looking for a better life.

211
00:13:11,320 --> 00:13:16,320
So, you got that cultural clash
right from the beginning.

212
00:13:18,000 --> 00:13:22,480
And the feeling is like they are
pushing Turkishness on us.

213
00:13:22,480 --> 00:13:25,760
When you push it in my face,
then the reaction you get

214
00:13:25,760 --> 00:13:28,280
is the exact opposite.

215
00:13:28,280 --> 00:13:31,240
Turkey seems to be encouraging
a more traditional

216
00:13:31,240 --> 00:13:33,880
Turkish religious
and patriotic culture here.

217
00:13:33,880 --> 00:13:36,120
Many Turkish Cypriots aren't happy -

218
00:13:36,120 --> 00:13:38,920
they say they're more liberal
and laid-back.

219
00:13:38,920 --> 00:13:40,360
We're going to a village

220
00:13:40,360 --> 00:13:43,000
that's still very strongly
a Turkish Cypriot village,

221
00:13:43,000 --> 00:13:46,960
and I'm going to meet the head of
the village, the Mukhtar.

222
00:13:46,960 --> 00:13:49,120
This is proper agricultural area,

223
00:13:49,120 --> 00:13:52,560
not cars parked outside
people's houses but tractors!

224
00:13:54,360 --> 00:13:57,360
Look at his place! Merhaba.

225
00:13:58,600 --> 00:14:02,080
Merhaba!

226
00:14:02,080 --> 00:14:04,960
Very nice to meet you, sir.

227
00:14:04,960 --> 00:14:07,800
Wow, look at your place,
your office here! My office.

228
00:14:14,560 --> 00:14:17,360
How is that specifically
Turkish Cypriot?

229
00:14:17,360 --> 00:14:20,720
Not specific to one
side or the other?

230
00:14:35,840 --> 00:14:39,040
From his village HQ,
Mukhtar Omer Merakli

231
00:14:39,040 --> 00:14:43,640
is leading a campaign to preserve
traditional Turkish Cypriot culture

232
00:14:43,640 --> 00:14:46,680
and stop it
being overwhelmed by Turkey.

233
00:14:46,680 --> 00:14:50,040
He's become a bit of
an online celebrity.

234
00:14:50,040 --> 00:14:52,680
You're on Facebook here!
Yes, my Facebook.

235
00:14:52,680 --> 00:14:55,560
This is your Facebook page.
Look, it's you, you're on a donkey!

236
00:15:01,160 --> 00:15:03,240
Is he always checking Facebook?

237
00:15:15,440 --> 00:15:17,880
The Mukhtar gave me a speedy
tour of the village.

238
00:15:27,840 --> 00:15:29,840
We're going off road.

239
00:15:33,000 --> 00:15:35,800
This is like a rally!
It's a rally car!

240
00:15:49,840 --> 00:15:51,560
We made it up the hill!

241
00:15:53,680 --> 00:15:55,440
All right, let's have a look.

242
00:15:55,440 --> 00:15:57,280
Unlike much of northern Cyprus,

243
00:15:57,280 --> 00:16:01,760
Turkish settlers have yet to
populate this area in large numbers,

244
00:16:01,760 --> 00:16:04,120
and it seems the Mukhtar
would like to keep it that way.

245
00:16:11,600 --> 00:16:15,160
When you look out at the village,
what are you most proud of about it?

246
00:16:19,200 --> 00:16:21,200
What does that mean?

247
00:16:41,560 --> 00:16:44,600
As if the divide between
Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots

248
00:16:44,600 --> 00:16:47,400
wasn't bad enough, there are now
tensions in the north

249
00:16:47,400 --> 00:16:50,000
between Cypriots and settlers.

250
00:16:50,000 --> 00:16:53,920
On Cyprus, there seems
little prospect of resolution.

251
00:16:53,920 --> 00:16:55,160
There it is.

252
00:16:55,160 --> 00:16:56,600
The Mediterranean!

253
00:16:56,600 --> 00:17:00,320
Looking particularly beautiful.

254
00:17:00,320 --> 00:17:03,520
It's the very size and shape
of the Mediterranean

255
00:17:03,520 --> 00:17:06,560
that makes it so extraordinary.

256
00:17:06,560 --> 00:17:10,440
Wide enough to support countless
empires and civilisations,

257
00:17:10,440 --> 00:17:14,520
yet narrow or small enough to ensure
they come into plenty of contact,

258
00:17:14,520 --> 00:17:15,880
and often conflict.

259
00:17:17,720 --> 00:17:21,360
Radically different cultures
and religions have always lived,

260
00:17:21,360 --> 00:17:25,040
existed, in close proximity
around the Mediterranean,

261
00:17:25,040 --> 00:17:26,920
often they've thrived together.

262
00:17:26,920 --> 00:17:30,960
But here, now,
there's a bitter divide.

263
00:17:40,000 --> 00:17:42,680
Cyprus has long been
the Mediterranean gateway

264
00:17:42,680 --> 00:17:44,760
to the Middle East.

265
00:17:44,760 --> 00:17:47,840
I headed to Lebanon,
just 200 miles away.

266
00:17:56,200 --> 00:18:00,320
In recent years, as the Middle East
has plunged into war and chaos,

267
00:18:00,320 --> 00:18:02,560
Lebanon has been a haven
of relative calm,

268
00:18:02,560 --> 00:18:05,880
even though it's another
country with a history

269
00:18:05,880 --> 00:18:08,280
of religious and ethnic division.

270
00:18:08,280 --> 00:18:12,160
Lebanon is a small country
but it's a real melting pot

271
00:18:12,160 --> 00:18:16,400
of something like 18 different
sects and religions,

272
00:18:16,400 --> 00:18:18,640
all living together.

273
00:18:18,640 --> 00:18:22,000
The ultimate Mediterranean mix.

274
00:18:22,000 --> 00:18:24,200
Look at this sight.

275
00:18:24,200 --> 00:18:25,880
Man and dog!

276
00:18:25,880 --> 00:18:28,200
Raja! Welcome to Lebanon!

277
00:18:28,200 --> 00:18:30,640
Thank you very much indeed, mate.
This is Sam.

278
00:18:30,640 --> 00:18:33,080
He's wandering around
behind the car! Hello, Sam.

279
00:18:33,080 --> 00:18:36,240
Sam, this is Simon.
Are you coming with us, as well?

280
00:18:36,240 --> 00:18:39,160
Yeah, he will spend
the week with us!

281
00:18:39,160 --> 00:18:41,200
Excellent, fantastic.

282
00:18:41,200 --> 00:18:43,240
Thank you. Agh!

283
00:18:44,880 --> 00:18:47,080
Today, we'll discover Lebanon...

284
00:18:48,520 --> 00:18:51,360
..but in another way.
Another way?

285
00:18:51,360 --> 00:18:55,000
Yeah, not walking and not driving.

286
00:18:55,000 --> 00:18:58,240
You've got just this sort of
cheeky look on your face

287
00:18:58,240 --> 00:19:00,920
that is causing me
a small degree of concern.

288
00:19:00,920 --> 00:19:03,960
What have you got planned?
I'm smiling because I'm happy.

289
00:19:07,800 --> 00:19:10,480
Welcome to the take-off, Simon.

290
00:19:10,480 --> 00:19:13,240
What have I let myself in for...?

291
00:19:15,680 --> 00:19:20,680
My guide, Raja Saade, was about to
give me my most spectacular view yet

292
00:19:20,880 --> 00:19:22,440
of the beautiful Med.

293
00:19:24,280 --> 00:19:25,840
Not good.

294
00:19:25,840 --> 00:19:29,560
This is much, erm, higher

295
00:19:29,560 --> 00:19:32,320
and more vertical

296
00:19:32,320 --> 00:19:36,440
than I imagined...and want.

297
00:19:36,440 --> 00:19:39,400
Simon. Yes. Keep running.
Keep running, OK, keep running. OK?

298
00:19:39,400 --> 00:19:41,840
Even if you feel you can't run,
you keep running, OK?

299
00:19:41,840 --> 00:19:43,760
Keep running. OK, yes, boss.

300
00:19:43,760 --> 00:19:45,440
Are we ready? Yes!

301
00:19:45,440 --> 00:19:48,040
One, two, go!

302
00:19:48,040 --> 00:19:50,880
You have to run more.
More, more, more. Run.

303
00:19:50,880 --> 00:19:54,440
Keep running,
keep running, keep running.

304
00:19:54,440 --> 00:19:55,960
Agh!

305
00:19:55,960 --> 00:19:57,640
Very nice day.

306
00:19:57,640 --> 00:19:59,240
Oh, my God!

307
00:20:01,040 --> 00:20:02,720
We're flying over Lebanon!

308
00:20:04,400 --> 00:20:06,280
And it is incredible!

309
00:20:06,280 --> 00:20:07,920
Very good.

310
00:20:10,120 --> 00:20:11,600
Oh, this is blissful!

311
00:20:13,640 --> 00:20:17,680
Blissful and...and nervy
and wonderful and...

312
00:20:17,680 --> 00:20:19,120
..and a long way down!

313
00:20:21,160 --> 00:20:22,960
This is the eagle eyes, you know,

314
00:20:22,960 --> 00:20:24,840
you see,
we can see the whole Lebanon.

315
00:20:24,840 --> 00:20:27,000
I see Beirut, down the coast.

316
00:20:27,000 --> 00:20:29,880
You see why I like my country?
Look, Simon, around.

317
00:20:29,880 --> 00:20:32,320
This is just stunning.

318
00:20:32,320 --> 00:20:33,920
Look at Harissa, you see?

319
00:20:33,920 --> 00:20:36,800
It's Virgin Mary,
very famous in Lebanon.

320
00:20:36,800 --> 00:20:38,200
Agh!

321
00:20:40,640 --> 00:20:42,240
Gently, gently.

322
00:20:42,240 --> 00:20:45,000
Looks as though we're about
to land into the hotel!

323
00:20:46,520 --> 00:20:48,160
Agh!

324
00:20:48,160 --> 00:20:50,400
What do you want me to do?
OK, you can stand up. Stand...?

325
00:20:50,400 --> 00:20:52,000
Ready to run, OK?

326
00:20:52,000 --> 00:20:53,240
I'm ready!

327
00:20:53,240 --> 00:20:56,320
Remember, ready to run, OK.
I'm ready. Ready to run.

328
00:20:56,320 --> 00:20:57,480
Agh!

329
00:20:57,480 --> 00:20:58,720
OK, stand up.

330
00:20:58,720 --> 00:20:59,960
Very nice.

331
00:20:59,960 --> 00:21:01,920
Oh, my goodness!
Congratulations. Bravo.

332
00:21:01,920 --> 00:21:03,800
The best landing ever! Nicely done.

333
00:21:03,800 --> 00:21:05,440
Well, not bad anyway!

334
00:21:12,760 --> 00:21:15,000
Like more than a third
of the population,

335
00:21:15,000 --> 00:21:17,480
Raja is a Lebanese Christian.

336
00:21:17,480 --> 00:21:19,760
When it was founded,
the country was a predominantly

337
00:21:19,760 --> 00:21:21,640
Christian nation.

338
00:21:22,720 --> 00:21:25,560
Raja is an adventure tour guide
in Lebanon.

339
00:21:25,560 --> 00:21:27,880
To get more of a sense of
the country he loves,

340
00:21:27,880 --> 00:21:30,080
and see the ancient roots of
Christianity

341
00:21:30,080 --> 00:21:34,880
in this area of the Mediterranean,
we headed up into the mountains.

342
00:21:34,880 --> 00:21:37,920
We'll be halfway now between
mountains and... And sea.

343
00:21:37,920 --> 00:21:40,160
And sea. Perfect.

344
00:21:40,160 --> 00:21:43,800
We are just a short distance
from the Mediterranean

345
00:21:43,800 --> 00:21:47,080
and we have climbed
straight up into the mountains

346
00:21:47,080 --> 00:21:50,520
and ahead of us
is a giant snowy peak,

347
00:21:50,520 --> 00:21:54,240
straight from the Swiss Alps.

348
00:21:54,240 --> 00:21:56,720
Just inland from the Mediterranean,

349
00:21:56,720 --> 00:22:00,480
this rugged mountain range stretches
the length of the country.

350
00:22:09,400 --> 00:22:12,440
We were heading to the Qadisha,
or Holy Valley,

351
00:22:12,440 --> 00:22:16,120
a sacred area for
Lebanon's Christians

352
00:22:16,120 --> 00:22:19,160
and one of Raja's
favourite places to hike.

353
00:22:21,440 --> 00:22:22,360
Look at this!

354
00:22:23,640 --> 00:22:25,440
This is...

355
00:22:25,440 --> 00:22:27,080
This is incredible.

356
00:22:30,640 --> 00:22:33,160
Yes, Sam, look! Look at the view!

357
00:22:34,680 --> 00:22:36,200
Wow.

358
00:22:36,200 --> 00:22:38,440
You see, this is the valley.

359
00:22:38,440 --> 00:22:43,280
Raja was taking me to an abandoned
monastery deep in the valley.

360
00:22:43,880 --> 00:22:46,800
Look, from here, you can have
a look. You see?

361
00:22:46,800 --> 00:22:50,520
That's not where we are going.
Yes, we're going there.

362
00:22:50,520 --> 00:22:52,960
We'll sleep here tonight.

363
00:22:52,960 --> 00:22:55,520
And this is the monastery of
Mar Aboun, the first Christian,

364
00:22:55,520 --> 00:22:58,040
the first Maronite
choose them to live.

365
00:22:58,040 --> 00:23:00,800
This is why they were
happy in this valley,

366
00:23:00,800 --> 00:23:02,680
because it's full of caves.

367
00:23:04,040 --> 00:23:07,560
Maronite Christians
are an ancient Christian sect.

368
00:23:07,560 --> 00:23:12,160
It's thought they were originally
driven away from the Mediterranean

369
00:23:12,160 --> 00:23:13,600
and up here into the mountains,

370
00:23:13,600 --> 00:23:15,880
where they found seclusion
and safety.

371
00:23:17,880 --> 00:23:21,200
Millions of them have since
fled into exile abroad,

372
00:23:21,200 --> 00:23:23,920
now living in the Americas
and Europe.

373
00:23:23,920 --> 00:23:25,400
Look at this.

374
00:23:25,400 --> 00:23:28,000
It's completely epic.

375
00:23:29,360 --> 00:23:32,480
Built inside a cave,
this Maronite monastery

376
00:23:32,480 --> 00:23:35,440
is thought to have stood
for 1,000 years.

377
00:23:43,240 --> 00:23:46,080
Hey, why were you saying we have
to be careful with our lights?

378
00:23:46,080 --> 00:23:50,360
We can have hyenas.
"Hyenas"? You're pulling my leg.

379
00:23:50,360 --> 00:23:52,200
No, really.
There are no hyenas here.

380
00:23:52,200 --> 00:23:55,280
I can show you some pictures,
for sure there... Seriously?

381
00:23:55,280 --> 00:23:57,480
Yeah, there are hyenas.
Oh, my goodness' sake.

382
00:23:57,480 --> 00:23:59,160
Every winter when
there is a lot of snow,

383
00:23:59,160 --> 00:24:02,840
they found hyena in the village,
they come to the village.

384
00:24:02,840 --> 00:24:04,200
Right. My goodness.

385
00:24:04,200 --> 00:24:07,920
If you meet a hyena,
you don't have to look to his eyes.

386
00:24:07,920 --> 00:24:11,480
Because if you look to his eyes
you can't move after.

387
00:24:11,480 --> 00:24:15,680
Do the stories you have of hyenas
end well for the humans?

388
00:24:15,680 --> 00:24:19,400
There is no story with well...
No story ends well!

389
00:24:19,400 --> 00:24:21,840
Yeah! Bloody hell!

390
00:24:21,840 --> 00:24:24,640
Do we have any sharpened
spears or anything?

391
00:24:27,760 --> 00:24:30,320
I've slept in some strange places,

392
00:24:30,320 --> 00:24:32,600
but this takes the biscuit!

393
00:24:35,880 --> 00:24:37,280
DISTANT YELPING OUTSIDE

394
00:24:39,320 --> 00:24:41,200
What is that noise?

395
00:24:41,200 --> 00:24:43,960
He's really spooked me
by talking about the hyenas!

396
00:24:43,960 --> 00:24:45,600
YELPING CONTINUES

397
00:24:55,960 --> 00:24:59,400
There was quite a lot
of howling in the night.

398
00:25:00,440 --> 00:25:03,120
I can't wait to get outside.

399
00:25:03,120 --> 00:25:06,760
This is going to be the best
view for morning ablutions,

400
00:25:06,760 --> 00:25:09,440
possibly ever!

401
00:25:25,120 --> 00:25:28,160
The Middle East was
the birthplace of Christianity.

402
00:25:28,160 --> 00:25:31,720
But today, the persecution of
Christians across the region

403
00:25:31,720 --> 00:25:34,840
is a forgotten
human-rights tragedy.

404
00:25:34,840 --> 00:25:38,840
100 years ago, one in seven people
in the Middle East were Christians.

405
00:25:38,840 --> 00:25:40,560
Now, it's just one in 20.

406
00:25:42,880 --> 00:25:45,960
Lebanon has long been
one of the safest places

407
00:25:45,960 --> 00:25:48,640
in the Middle East
to be a Christian.

408
00:25:48,640 --> 00:25:50,600
Now, it's becoming a sanctuary.

409
00:25:53,240 --> 00:25:57,200
Brutal civil wars and targeted
attacks in Iraq and Syria

410
00:25:57,200 --> 00:26:00,760
have resulted in their Christian
populations collapsing.

411
00:26:00,760 --> 00:26:03,160
Thousands of Christian refugees
from across the region

412
00:26:03,160 --> 00:26:06,280
have fled to safety here in Lebanon.

413
00:26:06,280 --> 00:26:11,320
Raja took me to meet one Christian
community with a defiant message.

414
00:26:11,520 --> 00:26:13,160
Oh, my goodness!

415
00:26:14,400 --> 00:26:15,840
That is a big cross!

416
00:26:15,840 --> 00:26:19,240
That's a tower! Yes.

417
00:26:19,240 --> 00:26:24,120
Can you actually go up inside it?
Yes. That is a very big statement.

418
00:26:26,960 --> 00:26:29,200
Father, hello. Hello.

419
00:26:29,200 --> 00:26:31,320
Lovely to meet you,
Simon Reeve, hello.

420
00:26:31,320 --> 00:26:32,760
Father Charbel Khachan.

421
00:26:32,760 --> 00:26:34,880
Very nice to meet you.

422
00:26:34,880 --> 00:26:36,720
Oh, flippin' heck.

423
00:26:36,720 --> 00:26:39,240
My vertigo's going
to get a workout here!

424
00:26:39,240 --> 00:26:41,160
VOICEOVER: This is said
to be the largest

425
00:26:41,160 --> 00:26:42,800
inhabitable cross in the world.

426
00:26:42,800 --> 00:26:44,280
OK...

427
00:26:46,880 --> 00:26:48,920
Oh!

428
00:26:48,920 --> 00:26:51,120
Oh, no, I don't like this!

429
00:26:51,120 --> 00:26:54,120
I don't like this,
I'll just stay just here, I think.

430
00:26:54,120 --> 00:26:55,960
Sadly, I don't have your faith!

431
00:26:55,960 --> 00:26:57,840
In any sense!

432
00:26:57,840 --> 00:26:59,440
Sam!

433
00:26:59,440 --> 00:27:01,280
Sam, don't go near the edge!

434
00:27:03,520 --> 00:27:04,840
Sam is OK, don't...

435
00:27:04,840 --> 00:27:06,240
Just be careful!

436
00:27:07,680 --> 00:27:10,400
Overlooking the Mediterranean,

437
00:27:10,400 --> 00:27:12,800
the giant cross, 60 metres high,

438
00:27:12,800 --> 00:27:15,120
is going to house a church
and a prayer centre

439
00:27:15,120 --> 00:27:17,240
for the Christian community.

440
00:27:17,240 --> 00:27:22,200
How would you describe the situation
at the moment for Christians

441
00:27:23,880 --> 00:27:25,880
in the Middle East?

442
00:28:02,240 --> 00:28:05,760
This community might be staying,
but elsewhere in the Middle East,

443
00:28:05,760 --> 00:28:08,400
Christianity is facing collapse.

444
00:28:09,760 --> 00:28:11,600
Church leaders are
starting to wonder

445
00:28:11,600 --> 00:28:15,440
whether Christianity could vanish
from the region of its birth.

446
00:28:27,440 --> 00:28:30,520
I continued my journey
around the Mediterranean

447
00:28:30,520 --> 00:28:33,880
as Raja drove me towards
the south of Lebanon.

448
00:28:34,960 --> 00:28:38,600
I can see what looks like a big
military checkpoint up ahead.

449
00:28:38,600 --> 00:28:41,200
These checkpoints actually
have been quite a surprise to me,

450
00:28:41,200 --> 00:28:45,520
I think they're a constant reminder
that there is fragility here,

451
00:28:45,520 --> 00:28:49,280
there is risk, there is instability
still in Lebanon.

452
00:28:49,280 --> 00:28:54,240
We're heading into the territory
controlled by Hezbollah.

453
00:28:54,640 --> 00:28:59,520
Hezbollah is a militant
Shi'ite Muslim group

454
00:28:59,520 --> 00:29:01,760
that Israel, the United States,

455
00:29:01,760 --> 00:29:04,400
European countries and
Arab countries, as well,

456
00:29:04,400 --> 00:29:07,640
say is one of the biggest
terrorist groups in the world.

457
00:29:09,080 --> 00:29:11,080
Hezbollah is backed by Iran.

458
00:29:12,720 --> 00:29:15,160
Here in Lebanon, Hezbollah
controls an area

459
00:29:15,160 --> 00:29:17,280
bordering Israel to the south.

460
00:29:18,480 --> 00:29:23,280
In 2006, Hezbollah fought a brief,
but bloody, war with Israel,

461
00:29:23,280 --> 00:29:25,720
a conflict which still
defines this area.

462
00:29:25,720 --> 00:29:27,600
Wow.

463
00:29:27,600 --> 00:29:32,440
So, that's a huge poster,
a martyr poster, basically,

464
00:29:32,440 --> 00:29:36,800
with the faces of almost entirely
young men who have died

465
00:29:36,800 --> 00:29:38,800
fighting for Hezbollah.

466
00:29:38,800 --> 00:29:43,560
And here you see three, basically,
three young guys. Look at them!

467
00:29:45,560 --> 00:29:47,640
So, look, we're coming to,

468
00:29:47,640 --> 00:29:50,280
so, "Hezbollah Resistance Museum".

469
00:29:51,560 --> 00:29:54,880
To mark what they say
are their victories against Israel,

470
00:29:54,880 --> 00:29:57,640
Hezbollah have spent
a reported $20 million

471
00:29:57,640 --> 00:29:59,680
building a strange
tourist attraction

472
00:29:59,680 --> 00:30:02,560
that's been described
as a terrorist Disneyland.

473
00:30:02,560 --> 00:30:03,880
Oh, my God.

474
00:30:07,960 --> 00:30:11,600
So, this is what
they call the Abyss.

475
00:30:15,440 --> 00:30:18,160
The Abyss proudly displays
the spoils of war

476
00:30:18,160 --> 00:30:22,920
captured from Israeli forces
and their allies.

477
00:30:22,920 --> 00:30:26,080
I think what's really striking
about this site

478
00:30:26,080 --> 00:30:29,840
is just the scale of it,
and what it really says to me

479
00:30:29,840 --> 00:30:34,800
is that obviously this isn't
just a small militant group,

480
00:30:35,920 --> 00:30:39,720
Hezbollah is now a rich and powerful

481
00:30:39,720 --> 00:30:43,600
militant military organisation.

482
00:30:43,600 --> 00:30:47,680
A mini army! They have their own
tank divisions, for goodness' sake!

483
00:30:48,840 --> 00:30:53,000
In Lebanon, they have become
like a state within a state.

484
00:30:55,120 --> 00:30:58,960
Hezbollah also run hospitals,
schools and welfare.

485
00:30:58,960 --> 00:31:01,800
Many people in Lebanon think
they stand up against the might

486
00:31:01,800 --> 00:31:06,280
of Israel and describe
Hezbollah as the "resistance".

487
00:31:06,280 --> 00:31:09,920
Tensions between Israel and
Hezbollah are again escalating,

488
00:31:09,920 --> 00:31:14,000
and, tragically, both sides have
said they're ready for another war.

489
00:31:14,000 --> 00:31:18,680
So, this is the divide
between Lebanon and Israel.

490
00:31:18,680 --> 00:31:22,920
We've got our United Nations
armoured truck here.

491
00:31:26,000 --> 00:31:28,760
We're going to pull over
and have a look.

492
00:31:28,760 --> 00:31:32,320
At a viewpoint, there's a group
of United Nations soldiers here

493
00:31:32,320 --> 00:31:36,120
playing cards or something next to
a poster of the leader of Hezbollah,

494
00:31:36,120 --> 00:31:37,560
this is just surreal.

495
00:31:44,280 --> 00:31:47,920
This is a really, I suppose,
defining feeling

496
00:31:47,920 --> 00:31:50,400
and point for me
travelling around the Mediterranean.

497
00:31:50,400 --> 00:31:55,040
I cannot believe we've gone
from the green line dividing Cyprus

498
00:31:55,040 --> 00:31:59,080
to the blue line dividing
Lebanon and Israel.

499
00:31:59,080 --> 00:32:04,160
And on both of them, the United
Nations is keeping neighbours apart.

500
00:32:06,200 --> 00:32:08,400
There are tensions
elsewhere in the Med,

501
00:32:08,400 --> 00:32:12,000
but this is one of the world's
most dangerous flash points.

502
00:32:12,000 --> 00:32:16,160
It is perhaps the most extreme
of all Mediterranean borders.

503
00:32:16,160 --> 00:32:20,040
There is no way of crossing here
from Lebanon into Israel.

504
00:32:20,040 --> 00:32:24,040
So, to continue my journey
around the Mediterranean,

505
00:32:24,040 --> 00:32:26,760
I've got to fly to Jordan,

506
00:32:26,760 --> 00:32:30,760
and from there, to Tel Aviv
on the coast of Israel.

507
00:32:35,040 --> 00:32:37,920
Surrounded by often hostile
countries on land,

508
00:32:37,920 --> 00:32:41,080
and with few open border crossings
to its neighbours,

509
00:32:41,080 --> 00:32:44,840
Israel is almost an island
in the Middle East.

510
00:32:44,840 --> 00:32:47,400
The Mediterranean is
the country's main connection

511
00:32:47,400 --> 00:32:48,840
to the outside world.

512
00:32:51,200 --> 00:32:54,720
Perhaps more than any other
country around the sea,

513
00:32:54,720 --> 00:32:58,360
Israel relies on the Mediterranean
for its survival.

514
00:33:07,120 --> 00:33:10,920
The colonel commands
the Ashdod Navy fleet.

515
00:33:15,880 --> 00:33:20,760
We have patrol boats that patrol
24 hours a day, 365 a year.

516
00:33:22,200 --> 00:33:25,440
Patrolling your patch of
the Mediterranean? Yeah, yeah.

517
00:33:25,440 --> 00:33:29,280
It's going to get crowded
in here, isn't it?

518
00:33:29,280 --> 00:33:30,800
Before you are going to the sea,

519
00:33:30,800 --> 00:33:34,760
you're checking everything and
you see that everything is in order

520
00:33:34,760 --> 00:33:38,800
and it's correct and it's OK, and
then you can go on your mission.

521
00:33:38,800 --> 00:33:43,520
So, it's a fully active,
combat-ready patrol? Yeah. OK.

522
00:33:58,120 --> 00:34:00,880
Now finish everything
and check everything

523
00:34:00,880 --> 00:34:02,920
and now we can go out
to the sea. OK.

524
00:34:02,920 --> 00:34:04,640
This is what we are doing.

525
00:34:04,640 --> 00:34:07,760
And you can see the big ships
that are coming in and out

526
00:34:07,760 --> 00:34:09,800
to bring all the stuff to Israel.

527
00:34:09,800 --> 00:34:11,760
Israel, it's like an island.

528
00:34:11,760 --> 00:34:13,520
Because all around of us,

529
00:34:13,520 --> 00:34:15,760
we have, most of the countries

530
00:34:15,760 --> 00:34:17,960
we don't have a relationship
with them,

531
00:34:17,960 --> 00:34:19,840
and then we have to use the sea

532
00:34:19,840 --> 00:34:22,400
and this is the reason
that the Mediterranean

533
00:34:22,400 --> 00:34:24,320
is so important to Israel.

534
00:34:26,360 --> 00:34:29,440
With most of its
land borders closed,

535
00:34:29,440 --> 00:34:33,480
an incredible 99% of Israel's
imports by volume

536
00:34:33,480 --> 00:34:36,120
arrive via the Mediterranean.

537
00:34:36,120 --> 00:34:39,960
Defending three key commercial
ports has long been a major part

538
00:34:39,960 --> 00:34:41,800
of the Navy's mission.

539
00:34:41,800 --> 00:34:46,520
But now, it's what's under the
Mediterranean that is a new focus

540
00:34:46,520 --> 00:34:48,520
for Israeli security.

541
00:34:48,520 --> 00:34:51,360
We have not only the trade
through the Mediterranean,

542
00:34:51,360 --> 00:34:54,760
now we have the electricity,
you have the energy.

543
00:34:56,760 --> 00:35:00,880
For a long time, Israel's
been relatively starved of energy.

544
00:35:00,880 --> 00:35:05,080
In a part of the world
that is completely awash with oil,

545
00:35:05,080 --> 00:35:08,400
Israel has always been the country
that didn't have the oil reserves.

546
00:35:08,400 --> 00:35:10,520
Now, in the last few years,

547
00:35:10,520 --> 00:35:13,280
underneath the eastern end
of the Mediterranean

548
00:35:13,280 --> 00:35:15,560
have been discovered
some of the largest

549
00:35:15,560 --> 00:35:18,200
remaining gas reserves
on the planet.

550
00:35:18,200 --> 00:35:21,800
And that's a complete game-changer
for the country.

551
00:35:23,640 --> 00:35:26,720
From a security point of view,
of course, the problem is,

552
00:35:26,720 --> 00:35:29,480
these rigs are like sitting ducks.

553
00:35:32,000 --> 00:35:36,280
Defence experts say the rigs are
vulnerable to attacks from rockets,

554
00:35:36,280 --> 00:35:39,320
divers and even
remote-controlled submarines.

555
00:35:39,320 --> 00:35:41,920
The Israeli Navy has
deployed countermeasures,

556
00:35:41,920 --> 00:35:44,480
including missile systems,
undersea sensors

557
00:35:44,480 --> 00:35:47,800
and even the first operational
combat unmanned drone boat.

558
00:35:49,880 --> 00:35:53,080
On this ship, they have guns,
they have cameras,

559
00:35:53,080 --> 00:35:55,160
they have radars, all this stuff,

560
00:35:55,160 --> 00:35:57,760
and they control the ship
from the shore.

561
00:35:59,040 --> 00:36:02,720
Israel and Israelis
have really led the world

562
00:36:02,720 --> 00:36:05,680
in airborne drone technology
and now, they're extending

563
00:36:05,680 --> 00:36:08,400
the same sort
of technology to the sea.

564
00:36:08,400 --> 00:36:10,560
Look at the weapon on the top there.

565
00:36:10,560 --> 00:36:14,120
It looks like Star Trek
stuff, doesn't it?

566
00:36:14,120 --> 00:36:17,680
This was a live-fire
training exercise.

567
00:36:17,680 --> 00:36:20,520
The Israeli military have faced
criticism and condemnation

568
00:36:20,520 --> 00:36:24,120
for using excessive force on land,
but also at sea.

569
00:36:24,120 --> 00:36:28,840
It's looking for a target
or a terrorist boat.

570
00:36:28,840 --> 00:36:31,200
And then when he will find it,

571
00:36:31,200 --> 00:36:33,960
he will go and he will fire it on...

572
00:36:33,960 --> 00:36:36,920
He will fire first of all in the air
and then on the target.

573
00:36:38,560 --> 00:36:40,400
RAPID GUNFIRE

574
00:36:43,080 --> 00:36:44,680
Goodness me.

575
00:36:47,480 --> 00:36:49,960
That's really rather extraordinary.

576
00:36:49,960 --> 00:36:54,840
It really does feel like
the future of war.

577
00:36:54,840 --> 00:36:56,280
In horrific...

578
00:36:56,280 --> 00:36:58,720
and a sophisticated way.

579
00:37:00,760 --> 00:37:04,520
Israel was founded
in the aftermath of the Holocaust.

580
00:37:04,520 --> 00:37:06,960
Its early years
and often the decades since

581
00:37:06,960 --> 00:37:10,400
were marked by conflict
and the threat of annihilation.

582
00:37:10,400 --> 00:37:13,080
In response,
Israel invested heavily

583
00:37:13,080 --> 00:37:14,720
in the military and innovation.

584
00:37:17,600 --> 00:37:20,200
I suppose, the first thing
you think when you come here

585
00:37:20,200 --> 00:37:21,840
for the first time is,

586
00:37:21,840 --> 00:37:24,840
this wasn't quite
what I was expecting!

587
00:37:26,120 --> 00:37:28,960
Personally, I've been
raised my entire life,

588
00:37:28,960 --> 00:37:32,880
the Arab-Israeli conflict
has been just endless.

589
00:37:32,880 --> 00:37:34,680
Here, this is party town!

590
00:37:41,720 --> 00:37:43,200
Israel the best!

591
00:37:48,080 --> 00:37:51,160
In Tel Aviv, the problems of
the Middle East

592
00:37:51,160 --> 00:37:53,040
can seem a long way away.

593
00:37:53,040 --> 00:37:56,400
Israel has become one of the most
crowded countries in the world.

594
00:37:56,400 --> 00:37:58,440
And its population is likely to

595
00:37:58,440 --> 00:38:01,080
at least double
in the next few decades.

596
00:38:01,080 --> 00:38:02,480
To face the challenge,

597
00:38:02,480 --> 00:38:07,520
Israelis are using the Mediterranean
Sea and cutting-edge inventions.

598
00:38:07,720 --> 00:38:10,320
It is very green here.

599
00:38:12,120 --> 00:38:15,360
Which is weird,
because it hasn't rained very much

600
00:38:15,360 --> 00:38:17,120
this winter in Israel.

601
00:38:17,120 --> 00:38:20,440
But the grass and the crops
are still growing.

602
00:38:20,440 --> 00:38:23,200
There's no drought here.

603
00:38:23,200 --> 00:38:25,880
And that is because
the Israelis have learned

604
00:38:25,880 --> 00:38:28,480
to make drinking water
out of sea water.

605
00:38:29,800 --> 00:38:31,920
The Sorek Desalination Plant,

606
00:38:31,920 --> 00:38:33,960
right next to the Mediterranean,

607
00:38:33,960 --> 00:38:36,720
is the biggest
of its kind in the world.

608
00:38:36,720 --> 00:38:39,280
So, we take the water from the sea

609
00:38:39,280 --> 00:38:43,320
directly from the Mediterranean,
it is, in distance,

610
00:38:43,320 --> 00:38:46,760
about two kilometres from here
inside of the sea.

611
00:38:46,760 --> 00:38:49,000
So, you have a big pipe
sticking out into the sea?

612
00:38:49,000 --> 00:38:52,240
Yeah, you can see this pipe,
this is the size of the pipe,

613
00:38:52,240 --> 00:38:55,400
the big one, you can see it.

614
00:38:55,400 --> 00:38:57,760
Just a few years ago,
Israel teetered on the edge

615
00:38:57,760 --> 00:39:00,800
of the worst drought
in more than 900 years.

616
00:39:00,800 --> 00:39:02,840
It faced catastrophe.

617
00:39:02,840 --> 00:39:05,240
But innovators
like Dr Boris Liberman helped

618
00:39:05,240 --> 00:39:09,160
turn the Mediterranean
into Israel's salvation.

619
00:39:09,160 --> 00:39:12,960
Today, five huge plants
like this line Israel's coastline,

620
00:39:12,960 --> 00:39:17,680
producing an astonishing 2 billion
litres of fresh water every day.

621
00:39:22,960 --> 00:39:25,560
So, this is where the magic happens.

622
00:39:25,560 --> 00:39:27,400
Yeah, if you like!

623
00:39:27,400 --> 00:39:30,400
It's absolutely enormous!

624
00:39:33,480 --> 00:39:35,240
Where is everybody?

625
00:39:46,280 --> 00:39:49,480
It's hard to understate
the importance of these plants.

626
00:39:49,480 --> 00:39:51,760
Clean water is liquid gold.

627
00:39:51,760 --> 00:39:54,160
Israel, one of the driest
countries on Earth,

628
00:39:54,160 --> 00:39:56,040
now has more water than it needs.

629
00:39:56,040 --> 00:39:59,520
OK, this is the place
we can try water.

630
00:39:59,520 --> 00:40:01,200
This is the water.

631
00:40:04,360 --> 00:40:07,560
You see, I immediately feel
like I should turn them off!

632
00:40:07,560 --> 00:40:09,640
Doctor, what are you doing?

633
00:40:09,640 --> 00:40:11,200
You cannot run all the taps!

634
00:40:11,200 --> 00:40:14,520
Keep it, keep it, keep it!
What on earth are you doing?

635
00:40:14,520 --> 00:40:18,560
Keep it, keep it, keep it!
Take a glass.

636
00:40:18,560 --> 00:40:22,520
Even in Britain, where we have
a fair old amount of rain...

637
00:40:22,520 --> 00:40:23,840
Plenty of water.

638
00:40:23,840 --> 00:40:26,080
..we have to conserve water.

639
00:40:26,080 --> 00:40:28,720
You can't do this
in the Middle East! You can!

640
00:40:28,720 --> 00:40:30,880
But now you can. You can.

641
00:40:30,880 --> 00:40:33,840
It does taste like mineral water.

642
00:40:33,840 --> 00:40:36,840
It is, it is high-quality
mineral water.

643
00:40:36,840 --> 00:40:39,080
You can start bottling this!

644
00:40:39,080 --> 00:40:43,000
Yeah, but it is not our business
to make bottles,

645
00:40:43,000 --> 00:40:46,520
our business is to make
the mass production.

646
00:40:46,520 --> 00:40:49,040
Let's go, guys.

647
00:40:49,040 --> 00:40:50,880
Follow me!

648
00:40:50,880 --> 00:40:53,040
In the past,
large-scale desalination,

649
00:40:53,040 --> 00:40:55,320
turning salty sea water
into drinking water,

650
00:40:55,320 --> 00:40:58,800
required huge amounts of energy
and polluting chemicals.

651
00:40:58,800 --> 00:41:00,360
There are still environmental costs

652
00:41:00,360 --> 00:41:02,680
but this new process
is energy-efficient

653
00:41:02,680 --> 00:41:06,120
and almost entirely chemical-free.
Oh, my goodness, look.

654
00:41:06,120 --> 00:41:09,880
It is absolutely natural sea water.

655
00:41:09,880 --> 00:41:15,000
Maybe we will later see some fishes
or crabs can be in the water.

656
00:41:16,000 --> 00:41:18,280
You really can, look.
There you can see one fish. Yes.

657
00:41:18,280 --> 00:41:21,360
One, two... There's lots. You see?

658
00:41:21,360 --> 00:41:23,080
So what will happen to the fish?

659
00:41:23,080 --> 00:41:25,400
During backwash process
from this pool,

660
00:41:25,400 --> 00:41:28,240
they can go back to the sea.

661
00:41:28,240 --> 00:41:32,120
Turning sea water
into drinking water is...

662
00:41:33,200 --> 00:41:35,760
There's something quite
biblical about it.

663
00:41:35,760 --> 00:41:38,800
It's something that humans
have never really done

664
00:41:38,800 --> 00:41:40,720
in large quantities before.

665
00:41:40,720 --> 00:41:43,400
Yeah, the problem technologically
is solved,

666
00:41:43,400 --> 00:41:47,200
we can do it and we can do it
in very large quantities.

667
00:41:47,200 --> 00:41:50,760
And we can do it
for relatively low cost.

668
00:41:50,760 --> 00:41:55,720
This is also, I think, an example
of Israeli innovation,

669
00:41:56,000 --> 00:41:58,520
which is something very special
about the country.

670
00:41:58,520 --> 00:42:00,960
Israel is made from the brain.

671
00:42:00,960 --> 00:42:05,840
This is technology,
how you take money from the brain.

672
00:42:05,840 --> 00:42:08,160
You have to know how to do it.

673
00:42:08,160 --> 00:42:11,640
And there are a lot of money
inside of the brain.

674
00:42:12,720 --> 00:42:14,760
While other wealthy
Middle East nations

675
00:42:14,760 --> 00:42:16,800
have relied on oil
for prosperity,

676
00:42:16,800 --> 00:42:19,960
Israel has relied
on innovation technology,

677
00:42:19,960 --> 00:42:23,120
one of Israel's biggest exports.

678
00:42:23,120 --> 00:42:26,160
It's helped make
the country wealthy.

679
00:42:26,160 --> 00:42:29,240
By contrast, my final destination
on this leg of my journey

680
00:42:29,240 --> 00:42:32,960
is one of the poorest places
in the region.

681
00:42:32,960 --> 00:42:34,760
I took a train south.

682
00:42:37,920 --> 00:42:40,440
I was heading to the Gaza Strip,

683
00:42:40,440 --> 00:42:43,800
a tiny stretch of land
along the Mediterranean

684
00:42:43,800 --> 00:42:45,560
around 25 miles long.

685
00:42:47,040 --> 00:42:50,160
Nearly two million Palestinians
live there.

686
00:42:50,160 --> 00:42:53,280
It was the most dangerous
part of the journey.

687
00:42:53,280 --> 00:42:57,840
This is actually part of the train
station that is a bomb shelter

688
00:42:57,840 --> 00:43:02,080
or a rocket shelter, because of
missiles launched from Gaza.

689
00:43:03,440 --> 00:43:06,520
Look at the doors here,
it's unbelievable.

690
00:43:06,520 --> 00:43:10,280
Anyway, so, I've got to go
through loads of security now,

691
00:43:10,280 --> 00:43:12,120
we're going to have to stop filming

692
00:43:12,120 --> 00:43:16,200
and then we'll pick up and start
again when we're inside Gaza.

693
00:43:20,400 --> 00:43:25,040
I cross one of the world's
most heavily fortified borders.

694
00:43:25,040 --> 00:43:30,000
So, this is a long
walk through a cage,

695
00:43:30,120 --> 00:43:32,160
a caged passageway,

696
00:43:32,160 --> 00:43:35,600
that takes us from the very modern,

697
00:43:35,600 --> 00:43:38,240
pretty wealthy state of Israel,

698
00:43:38,240 --> 00:43:42,680
to the much poorer
and densely packed Gaza Strip.

699
00:43:44,200 --> 00:43:47,600
I've never been through a border
crossing quite like this.

700
00:43:47,600 --> 00:43:50,840
It is extraordinary...

701
00:43:52,080 --> 00:43:54,280
..in every possible sense.

702
00:43:54,280 --> 00:43:57,280
And, my God, you look across here,

703
00:43:57,280 --> 00:44:02,240
look at the barrier
that encircles Gaza.

704
00:44:02,240 --> 00:44:05,280
It's a very forbidding,
foreboding place

705
00:44:05,280 --> 00:44:08,160
to walk towards, quite frankly.

706
00:44:08,160 --> 00:44:13,160
You know, there's a dehumanisation
of the people who live here,

707
00:44:13,400 --> 00:44:17,560
the whole process makes you feel
like you're entering

708
00:44:17,560 --> 00:44:20,080
the cage of the wild animals.

709
00:44:22,560 --> 00:44:25,600
Westerners are at risk of kidnap
and shooting in Gaza,

710
00:44:25,600 --> 00:44:29,040
but also from being caught up
in an Israeli military strike.

711
00:44:29,040 --> 00:44:32,680
Our crew vehicle had some
special modifications.

712
00:44:32,680 --> 00:44:35,920
We have to have, while we're here,

713
00:44:35,920 --> 00:44:37,600
the back of the vehicle,

714
00:44:37,600 --> 00:44:40,560
well, all the sides,
every part of the vehicle,

715
00:44:40,560 --> 00:44:43,240
is heavily armoured.

716
00:44:43,240 --> 00:44:45,480
You've got this armoured window

717
00:44:45,480 --> 00:44:48,480
here that goes there.

718
00:44:48,480 --> 00:44:51,680
Then this thick, solid
armour goes across...

719
00:44:54,240 --> 00:44:56,240
..and then the outer shell closes.

720
00:44:56,240 --> 00:44:58,440
And that is how you feel safe.

721
00:44:58,440 --> 00:45:00,720
At least, when you're in the car.

722
00:45:03,800 --> 00:45:07,320
So, we're now in Gaza proper.
We are now in Gaza.

723
00:45:07,320 --> 00:45:09,880
So this is Rushdi here.

724
00:45:09,880 --> 00:45:12,920
Rushdi is going
to be our guide in Gaza.

725
00:45:12,920 --> 00:45:16,320
It's the most bizarre thing,
crossing.

726
00:45:16,320 --> 00:45:21,320
Of course, they keep calling Gaza
as the biggest open-air prison.

727
00:45:21,320 --> 00:45:24,880
Which is true because
it's closed from four sides.

728
00:45:24,880 --> 00:45:29,960
So, Israel is calling this strip
of land, it's like a hostile entity.

729
00:45:32,360 --> 00:45:34,400
Since elections in 2006,

730
00:45:34,400 --> 00:45:37,080
Gaza has been controlled by Hamas,

731
00:45:37,080 --> 00:45:40,360
a militant Islamic group
considered terrorists by Israel

732
00:45:40,360 --> 00:45:43,000
and many Western governments.

733
00:45:43,000 --> 00:45:45,520
It's not the only
militant group here.

734
00:45:49,080 --> 00:45:51,880
That's the black flag flying
there of...

735
00:45:51,880 --> 00:45:54,320
Is that Hamas or something else?

736
00:45:54,320 --> 00:45:55,680
It's Islamic Jihad.

737
00:45:56,840 --> 00:46:00,120
We've just gone past
an Islamic Jihad checkpoint?!

738
00:46:00,120 --> 00:46:03,840
It's not a checkpoint, it's like
military compound. Bloody hell.

739
00:46:03,840 --> 00:46:06,720
Is this a safe...?

740
00:46:06,720 --> 00:46:08,800
This isn't a safe place.

741
00:46:08,800 --> 00:46:13,120
They operate in this area because
it's not far from the border.

742
00:46:13,120 --> 00:46:18,160
So, they always try to be ready
for an Israeli escalation or...

743
00:46:19,480 --> 00:46:22,960
Checkpoint ahead. Put the
cameras down. Cameras down.

744
00:46:31,320 --> 00:46:33,800
He wants to see what
you have been recording.

745
00:46:33,800 --> 00:46:37,640
We've been stopped at a checkpoint,
they've taken our cameras out.

746
00:46:37,640 --> 00:46:39,240
They're being serious about this.

747
00:46:39,240 --> 00:46:42,480
This is not Islamic Jihad people.
Who is this? They are Hamas. Hamas.

748
00:46:42,480 --> 00:46:46,720
They are the border police...force.

749
00:46:46,720 --> 00:46:47,800
Hamas Border Force.

750
00:46:47,800 --> 00:46:49,400
OK, well, that's...

751
00:46:49,400 --> 00:46:52,640
I'm actually slightly relieved
we've been stopped by Hamas.

752
00:46:56,720 --> 00:46:57,920
OK.

753
00:46:59,880 --> 00:47:04,240
Since 2006, Gaza has endured
one Palestinian civil war,

754
00:47:04,240 --> 00:47:06,520
three wars between Hamas and Israel,

755
00:47:06,520 --> 00:47:08,680
ten years of strict rule by Hamas

756
00:47:08,680 --> 00:47:10,840
and blockade by Israel and Egypt.

757
00:47:10,840 --> 00:47:13,120
This has all crippled the economy.

758
00:47:13,120 --> 00:47:16,000
For how long you can struggle?

759
00:47:16,000 --> 00:47:19,480
For how long you have to find a way

760
00:47:19,480 --> 00:47:22,720
to produce power
and to buy clean water?

761
00:47:22,720 --> 00:47:25,520
This is basic
in any part of the world.

762
00:47:25,520 --> 00:47:28,040
You don't have to worry about

763
00:47:28,040 --> 00:47:32,040
electricity or water
or the safety of your people.

764
00:47:34,320 --> 00:47:38,360
Israelis and Palestinians have
endured endless cycles of violence.

765
00:47:40,080 --> 00:47:42,960
Here, militants can fire
rockets into Israel,

766
00:47:42,960 --> 00:47:47,400
Israel can attack with
overwhelming force.

767
00:47:47,400 --> 00:47:51,560
Weeks of conflict here in 2014
between Israel and Palestinians

768
00:47:51,560 --> 00:47:53,960
left 2,000 civilians dead,

769
00:47:53,960 --> 00:47:57,160
including an estimated 500 children.

770
00:47:57,160 --> 00:47:59,560
18,000 homes were destroyed.

771
00:48:02,320 --> 00:48:05,040
Israel restricts the supply
of many building materials

772
00:48:05,040 --> 00:48:07,120
like cement into Gaza,

773
00:48:07,120 --> 00:48:11,960
Israel says, to prevent Hamas
building tunnels for attacks.

774
00:48:11,960 --> 00:48:15,280
But engineering graduate
Majd Mashharawi has invented

775
00:48:15,280 --> 00:48:17,920
an ingenious way
to help rebuild in Gaza.

776
00:48:19,280 --> 00:48:22,000
So, welcome to our factory. Right.

777
00:48:22,000 --> 00:48:24,440
And so what are you doing here?

778
00:48:24,440 --> 00:48:26,320
I'm doing building blocks!

779
00:48:26,320 --> 00:48:28,040
I call it green cake.

780
00:48:28,040 --> 00:48:29,720
"Green cake"? Yes.

781
00:48:29,720 --> 00:48:32,360
And what is green cake?

782
00:48:32,360 --> 00:48:34,480
Green cake is...

783
00:48:34,480 --> 00:48:37,400
It's a building block, or a brick,

784
00:48:37,400 --> 00:48:39,480
made out of ashes mainly.

785
00:48:39,480 --> 00:48:41,960
I figured out that
building blocks in Gaza...

786
00:48:41,960 --> 00:48:45,400
They depend 100% on importing
the materials from Israel,

787
00:48:45,400 --> 00:48:47,640
and it's too much,
because, you know,

788
00:48:47,640 --> 00:48:50,080
Gaza is under blockade since 2005,

789
00:48:50,080 --> 00:48:54,920
2006, and that means we have to
depend 100% on the other side.

790
00:48:54,920 --> 00:48:59,080
So, it's... We have to create
our self-sufficient community.

791
00:48:59,080 --> 00:49:01,600
By inventing the world's first
building block

792
00:49:01,600 --> 00:49:03,880
made from recycled coal
and wood ash,

793
00:49:03,880 --> 00:49:08,320
Majd has avoided using anything
restricted by the Israeli blockade.

794
00:49:08,320 --> 00:49:10,640
So, while we've been talking,

795
00:49:10,640 --> 00:49:13,280
your noisy brickmaking
machine was working. Yes.

796
00:49:13,280 --> 00:49:16,880
But... And I thought we'd be able to
get over there to have a look at it

797
00:49:16,880 --> 00:49:19,920
but the guys have just
moved it to one side.

798
00:49:19,920 --> 00:49:23,000
This is one of the problems
for us here, which is electricity.

799
00:49:23,000 --> 00:49:26,000
We have just four hours
of electricity a day.

800
00:49:26,000 --> 00:49:27,280
Four hours? Yes.

801
00:49:27,280 --> 00:49:30,240
So, it makes...even the life harder.

802
00:49:32,120 --> 00:49:35,720
You want two blocks?
We'd love to see two blocks, yes.

803
00:49:37,080 --> 00:49:38,560
Is that possible?

804
00:49:41,080 --> 00:49:45,520
So, you've got six minutes
of electricity left?

805
00:49:45,520 --> 00:49:49,360
Yes. Can you make
two blocks in that time?

806
00:49:52,200 --> 00:49:54,320
Can we see?

807
00:49:54,320 --> 00:49:56,040
THEY CHATTER IN OWN LANGUAGE

808
00:50:01,480 --> 00:50:03,680
OK, here comes the...
Yes. OK.

809
00:50:04,920 --> 00:50:08,360
Right, here's a rich mix.
Exactly.

810
00:50:08,360 --> 00:50:10,480
For green cake. Yes.

811
00:50:10,480 --> 00:50:13,160
I love that you call
it "green cake".

812
00:50:13,160 --> 00:50:15,720
They think it's a cooking project.

813
00:50:19,240 --> 00:50:21,040
It comes out from the side.

814
00:50:27,960 --> 00:50:30,160
They put it down here
and then it comes out.

815
00:50:37,520 --> 00:50:39,320
What are you laughing about?

816
00:50:39,320 --> 00:50:41,760
ALL GIGGLE

817
00:50:41,760 --> 00:50:43,400
It's OK!

818
00:50:43,400 --> 00:50:45,920
We know you just did
this to show us.

819
00:50:45,920 --> 00:50:48,680
Everybody's laughing
about the state of your brick.

820
00:50:50,800 --> 00:50:53,560
They want to repeat it.
Oh, my goodness. OK.

821
00:50:56,040 --> 00:50:58,040
Oh, look, he's proud.

822
00:51:07,000 --> 00:51:10,000
He's embarrassed about the state
of the bricks that have come.

823
00:51:10,000 --> 00:51:12,440
He saying,
"They shouldn't be like this."

824
00:51:12,440 --> 00:51:14,840
It was just a quick demonstration.

825
00:51:14,840 --> 00:51:16,320
See? Oh!

826
00:51:16,320 --> 00:51:18,480
APPLAUSE

827
00:51:22,560 --> 00:51:23,960
There we go.

828
00:51:23,960 --> 00:51:27,440
Now everyone is happy. Look
at the guys up here, as well...!

829
00:51:27,440 --> 00:51:28,920
These are good quality bricks.

830
00:51:28,920 --> 00:51:30,320
You're happy now?

831
00:51:31,560 --> 00:51:36,560
After it dries,
it became even nicer.

832
00:51:43,960 --> 00:51:45,160
It's OK.

833
00:51:45,160 --> 00:51:46,480
Come on...

834
00:51:49,160 --> 00:51:51,520
What do these bricks mean to you?

835
00:51:51,520 --> 00:51:53,520
It means hope.

836
00:51:53,520 --> 00:51:58,360
Yes, you can't imagine how my life
changed after this.

837
00:51:58,360 --> 00:52:01,560
When I got opportunities
to stay outside forever,

838
00:52:01,560 --> 00:52:03,960
I cannot live having happy life

839
00:52:03,960 --> 00:52:06,800
while my people
are suffering inside.

840
00:52:06,800 --> 00:52:09,120
You've had the chance to leave Gaza

841
00:52:09,120 --> 00:52:12,200
and live somewhere else. Yes.
And you've chosen to stay?

842
00:52:12,200 --> 00:52:14,600
Yes, and it was very
hard decision for me.

843
00:52:14,600 --> 00:52:18,680
People around me said, "You're crazy
if you want to go back."

844
00:52:18,680 --> 00:52:22,960
But I left for the reason to help
my people, so I have to come back.

845
00:52:22,960 --> 00:52:24,960
And the green cake,
it's not just hope for me,

846
00:52:24,960 --> 00:52:27,640
it's hope for many,
many, many people

847
00:52:27,640 --> 00:52:30,440
in the same faculty
of engineering who feel that,

848
00:52:30,440 --> 00:52:32,080
yes, we can make it one day.

849
00:52:32,080 --> 00:52:34,440
Your dream will come true one day.

850
00:52:34,440 --> 00:52:35,920
And this is the idea.

851
00:52:37,480 --> 00:52:40,040
Majd's invention is helping
to rebuild Gaza

852
00:52:40,040 --> 00:52:42,480
and create vital jobs.

853
00:52:42,480 --> 00:52:45,600
But the blockade here
has devastated Gaza's economy.

854
00:52:48,400 --> 00:52:52,200
Gaza now has among the highest
unemployment rates in the world,

855
00:52:52,200 --> 00:52:56,040
and it's believed most of its people
survive on less than $2 a day.

856
00:53:01,120 --> 00:53:03,800
This is the Gaza harbour.

857
00:53:03,800 --> 00:53:06,000
There are the fisherman ports.

858
00:53:06,000 --> 00:53:08,440
There are a lot of boats,
aren't there? There are.

859
00:53:08,440 --> 00:53:09,880
They're mostly in harbour.

860
00:53:09,880 --> 00:53:11,720
THEY EXCHANGE GREETINGS

861
00:53:23,480 --> 00:53:26,520
Gaza is an ancient
Mediterranean port.

862
00:53:26,520 --> 00:53:28,280
For centuries, people here

863
00:53:28,280 --> 00:53:30,800
have depended on what the sea
can provide.

864
00:53:30,800 --> 00:53:34,040
But today, Gaza's fishing
industry is in crisis.

865
00:53:34,040 --> 00:53:37,000
It's thought less than half
of Gaza's fishermen

866
00:53:37,000 --> 00:53:40,000
are still putting out to sea.

867
00:53:40,000 --> 00:53:43,480
Across the Mediterranean,
fish numbers are in steep decline.

868
00:53:43,480 --> 00:53:46,560
Here, fishermen
face additional challenges.

869
00:53:46,560 --> 00:53:51,480
You can see it stretching behind us.
It's already a big old chunk of net.

870
00:53:51,800 --> 00:53:54,200
Interesting to see what they get.

871
00:53:56,960 --> 00:53:59,600
I can hear something in the air.

872
00:54:00,640 --> 00:54:03,360
What the hell is that?
Israeli drone.

873
00:54:04,720 --> 00:54:08,400
What, like a Predator? Yes.
It's day and night.

874
00:54:08,400 --> 00:54:12,400
It's all day and night,
it's buzzing above our heads.

875
00:54:12,400 --> 00:54:13,840
Yeah.

876
00:54:13,840 --> 00:54:17,400
A missile-armed drone
flies day and night around?

877
00:54:17,400 --> 00:54:18,880
Yeah, yeah, yeah.

878
00:54:18,880 --> 00:54:21,080
There's one, two, and a third one

879
00:54:21,080 --> 00:54:23,360
I can't quite see at the moment.

880
00:54:23,360 --> 00:54:25,040
But there's definitely three

881
00:54:25,040 --> 00:54:28,600
up above our heads,
just circling ominously.

882
00:54:28,600 --> 00:54:31,920
It's really very intimidating.

883
00:54:31,920 --> 00:54:34,320
And just frightening, frankly.

884
00:54:35,560 --> 00:54:37,720
Look, for young people in Gaza,

885
00:54:37,720 --> 00:54:40,160
the only thing they know
about the Israelis

886
00:54:40,160 --> 00:54:43,160
is that they are the occupier,
who came in tanks

887
00:54:43,160 --> 00:54:45,040
and aeroplanes and bombed Gaza.

888
00:54:46,720 --> 00:54:49,840
You don't sound very hopeful
for the future.

889
00:54:49,840 --> 00:54:52,640
The economic situation is hard.

890
00:54:52,640 --> 00:54:55,080
And people are losing hope.

891
00:54:55,080 --> 00:54:59,360
They don't have jobs, they don't
have money, they don't have...

892
00:54:59,360 --> 00:55:04,000
The poverty is very high,
the unemployment is more than 60%.

893
00:55:04,000 --> 00:55:06,440
There's going to be
an explosion, I think.

894
00:55:06,440 --> 00:55:09,120
But where, I don't know.
When, I don't know.

895
00:55:09,120 --> 00:55:12,640
But the possible of war,
I think it's 50%.

896
00:55:14,560 --> 00:55:16,040
50/50.

897
00:55:16,040 --> 00:55:18,360
THEY SING IN ARABIC

898
00:55:25,120 --> 00:55:28,760
Rajab, are you pulling in
fish for your family?

899
00:55:51,160 --> 00:55:56,000
You just pulled
absolutely nothing out.

900
00:55:56,000 --> 00:55:59,480
This part of the Mediterranean
is completely empty.

901
00:56:36,240 --> 00:56:39,280
What does the future hold for you?
Can you carry on fishing?

902
00:56:39,280 --> 00:56:40,880
Can you carry on like this?

903
00:57:07,120 --> 00:57:11,400
We weren't able to verify
Rajab's account of the incident.

904
00:57:11,400 --> 00:57:14,040
The Israeli Navy says
it always fires warning shots

905
00:57:14,040 --> 00:57:16,320
before opening fire on fishing boats

906
00:57:16,320 --> 00:57:20,080
that cross out of their authorised
fishing area of the Mediterranean.

907
00:57:26,400 --> 00:57:30,240
The situation here
is utterly shocking,

908
00:57:30,240 --> 00:57:31,840
and maddening.

909
00:57:34,960 --> 00:57:39,360
So much about the Arab-Israeli
conflict is about picking a side,

910
00:57:39,360 --> 00:57:41,440
and, personally, I refuse to.

911
00:57:41,440 --> 00:57:43,920
My heart breaks for the suffering

912
00:57:43,920 --> 00:57:46,720
of the Jewish people
throughout history.

913
00:57:46,720 --> 00:57:50,240
My heart breaks for the suffering
of the Palestinians.

914
00:57:50,240 --> 00:57:55,280
So many opportunities for real,
lasting peace

915
00:57:55,640 --> 00:57:58,040
have been lost here.

916
00:57:58,040 --> 00:58:01,880
And we see two sides that seem,
in many ways,

917
00:58:01,880 --> 00:58:05,640
to be moving further apart,
not closer together.

918
00:58:12,920 --> 00:58:15,800
On the next leg of my journey
around the Mediterranean,

919
00:58:15,800 --> 00:58:19,360
I'll meet the sisters taking a stand
against the Sicilian Mafia...

920
00:58:22,480 --> 00:58:25,120
..and the last survivors
of a vanishing culture.

921
00:58:25,120 --> 00:58:29,480
Look at this! The whole thing's
moving. Well done, mate.

