1 00:00:03,600 --> 00:00:05,600 Hi, I'm Andrew Graham-Dixon 2 00:00:05,600 --> 00:00:07,960 and I'm an art historian. 3 00:00:07,960 --> 00:00:10,120 These ancient roads are slightly bumpy. 4 00:00:12,200 --> 00:00:14,600 And I'm Giorgio Locatelli and I'm a cook. 5 00:00:16,200 --> 00:00:17,800 We've been all over Italy, 6 00:00:17,800 --> 00:00:21,800 revealing her gastronomic and artistic treasures, 7 00:00:21,800 --> 00:00:25,880 but now we've come to the beating heart of the country, Rome. 8 00:00:29,800 --> 00:00:34,960 It's a 2,000 year old metropolis where past and present collide. 9 00:00:34,960 --> 00:00:37,400 It's as unique for an art lover... 10 00:00:37,400 --> 00:00:41,520 In the same moment he's also Christ on the cross. 11 00:00:42,520 --> 00:00:44,680 ..as it is for a food lover. 12 00:00:44,680 --> 00:00:48,240 Today I'm going to cook you a dish that is really steep in history. 13 00:00:50,040 --> 00:00:53,600 We will test traditional recipes beloved by the Romans. 14 00:00:53,600 --> 00:00:55,960 I'm not leaving this here. He's not going to let me have any. 15 00:00:55,960 --> 00:00:59,920 And we'll plunge our forks into the cultures that have shaped the city. 16 00:00:59,920 --> 00:01:03,760 The Trevi Fountain, famous as Italian ice cream. 17 00:01:03,760 --> 00:01:07,280 We'll explore Rome's greatest works of art and architecture. 18 00:01:07,280 --> 00:01:10,960 Uno. Due. Tre. 19 00:01:10,960 --> 00:01:13,080 Full of light... Incredible. 20 00:01:16,040 --> 00:01:18,840 ..but also, sometimes, darkness. 21 00:01:18,840 --> 00:01:20,680 It's the voice of conscience. 22 00:01:20,680 --> 00:01:22,520 I think it's a truthful voice. 23 00:01:43,000 --> 00:01:47,200 I cannot imagine anything to do in life better than this. 24 00:01:48,240 --> 00:01:49,920 And with you in the back, as well. 25 00:01:51,480 --> 00:01:54,200 It's always been my belief that to understand Rome, 26 00:01:54,200 --> 00:01:56,640 you must first understand the Roman people. 27 00:01:59,200 --> 00:02:01,680 They've always been the driving force behind the city. 28 00:02:05,200 --> 00:02:08,640 From ancient times, the Romans have acclaimed each new Emperor... 29 00:02:12,240 --> 00:02:15,560 ..roared their approval or disapproval of each new Pope 30 00:02:15,560 --> 00:02:18,120 and they show no sign of stopping that. 31 00:02:20,200 --> 00:02:22,680 They're always larger than life, 32 00:02:22,680 --> 00:02:25,360 divided, opinionated, 33 00:02:25,360 --> 00:02:27,320 passionate, unpredictable. 34 00:02:28,760 --> 00:02:30,720 Rome might be Italy's centre of government... 35 00:02:32,360 --> 00:02:35,560 ..but no-one could be harder to govern than the Romans. 36 00:02:42,960 --> 00:02:46,400 Our journey begins in the historic centre of Rome, 37 00:02:46,400 --> 00:02:50,040 the politically charged Capitoline Hill. 38 00:02:50,040 --> 00:02:52,120 The smallest and most important of 39 00:02:52,120 --> 00:02:54,160 the seven hills of ancient Rome, 40 00:02:54,160 --> 00:02:57,800 it was originally the site of one of the city's most sacred temples 41 00:02:57,800 --> 00:03:00,080 and later became the seat of the Senate. 42 00:03:01,200 --> 00:03:02,800 Look at this. Amazing. 43 00:03:02,800 --> 00:03:04,280 Excuse me. 44 00:03:04,280 --> 00:03:07,000 Caput Mundi. Here we are. 45 00:03:07,000 --> 00:03:10,200 But it's empty. We have the whole square to ourselves. 46 00:03:10,200 --> 00:03:11,400 That is unbelievable. 47 00:03:11,400 --> 00:03:13,640 That's like having an opera performance just for you. 48 00:03:25,440 --> 00:03:27,760 But it is like a piece of theatre. 49 00:03:27,760 --> 00:03:29,920 Yeah. This is THE place. 50 00:03:29,920 --> 00:03:32,280 Yeah, yeah, you're right. 51 00:03:32,280 --> 00:03:33,840 So many things happened here. 52 00:03:33,840 --> 00:03:36,320 Friends, Romans, lend me your ears. 53 00:03:36,320 --> 00:03:38,240 After the death of Caesar, 54 00:03:38,240 --> 00:03:42,680 Petrarch, he comes here to receive his laurel crown 55 00:03:42,680 --> 00:03:48,280 and then Napoleon declares his short-lived rule over Italy. 56 00:03:48,280 --> 00:03:50,280 Not very important. Don't talk about him. 57 00:03:50,280 --> 00:03:52,040 But still, they always come here. 58 00:03:52,040 --> 00:03:55,320 This is the place. Even in the Second World War, 59 00:03:55,320 --> 00:03:57,200 General Clark really didn't feel like 60 00:03:57,200 --> 00:04:00,040 he'd achieved anything until he arrived here. 61 00:04:00,040 --> 00:04:03,000 Well, we talk about, often, Michelangelo the sculptor... 62 00:04:03,000 --> 00:04:06,480 Yeah. ..Michelangelo the painter, who created the Sistine Chapel... 63 00:04:06,480 --> 00:04:09,960 Yeah. ..but sometimes we forget, this is Michelangelo the architect, 64 00:04:09,960 --> 00:04:13,360 and he creates this beautiful star pavement, 65 00:04:13,360 --> 00:04:15,560 almost like this is the sun. 66 00:04:15,560 --> 00:04:17,640 And at the centre of it all, 67 00:04:17,640 --> 00:04:20,680 this great statue of Marcus Aurelius, 68 00:04:20,680 --> 00:04:23,720 one of the most famous statues in the world. 69 00:04:23,720 --> 00:04:26,920 This statue's stood here, really, for 2,000 years. 70 00:04:26,920 --> 00:04:29,640 The very first equestrian statue. 71 00:04:29,640 --> 00:04:33,680 And in Roman times this signified the status of the ruler, 72 00:04:33,680 --> 00:04:36,200 that the Emperor, he is astride the horse, 73 00:04:36,200 --> 00:04:38,160 just as he is, metaphorically, 74 00:04:38,160 --> 00:04:39,520 he's in charge of his people. 75 00:04:40,840 --> 00:04:44,320 There he is, the great philosopher emperor, 76 00:04:44,320 --> 00:04:47,000 founder of modern mindfulness, 77 00:04:47,000 --> 00:04:49,120 author of works on happiness. 78 00:04:49,120 --> 00:04:51,240 Extraordinary man. 79 00:04:51,240 --> 00:04:54,840 The only reason it survived was that Pope Paul III, 80 00:04:54,840 --> 00:04:58,280 for whom Michelangelo redesigned this square during the Renaissance, 81 00:04:58,280 --> 00:05:02,320 he actually believed that to be a representation of the very first 82 00:05:02,320 --> 00:05:04,240 Christian emperor, Constantine. 83 00:05:04,240 --> 00:05:07,200 I see. And that's why he allowed it to remain, 84 00:05:07,200 --> 00:05:10,280 because all the Roman pagan monuments... 85 00:05:10,280 --> 00:05:13,000 All melted. If they were made of bronze, they go. 86 00:05:13,000 --> 00:05:15,000 So this thing only survives because of a mistake. 87 00:05:15,000 --> 00:05:16,400 Fantastic. Thank God for that. 88 00:05:16,400 --> 00:05:19,480 One of the most famous statues in the world. It's beautiful. 89 00:05:19,480 --> 00:05:21,480 Look at the horse. 90 00:05:21,480 --> 00:05:23,040 There's two Romes, always. 91 00:05:23,040 --> 00:05:24,920 There's the Rome of the great and the powerful, 92 00:05:24,920 --> 00:05:27,320 and there's the Rome of the people, the Rome of the mob. 93 00:05:27,320 --> 00:05:30,440 And this place is where the two meet each other. 94 00:05:30,440 --> 00:05:32,840 Andrew, come, I want to ask you something. 95 00:05:32,840 --> 00:05:34,960 You know what that mean? 96 00:05:34,960 --> 00:05:38,680 Senatus Populusque Romanus. 97 00:05:38,680 --> 00:05:41,640 It's a central idea of Ancient Rome. 98 00:05:41,640 --> 00:05:44,280 Those who rule, only rule with the collaboration of the people. 99 00:05:44,280 --> 00:05:46,600 With the collaboration... of the people... 100 00:05:46,600 --> 00:05:49,640 of Rome. That means a representation 101 00:05:49,640 --> 00:05:52,920 of the mob, as we call it. 102 00:05:52,920 --> 00:05:57,480 The modern world is built on this value, on this idea, 103 00:05:57,480 --> 00:06:01,200 that the people are part of the government. 104 00:06:01,200 --> 00:06:05,000 And, you know, this is so everywhere in Rome. 105 00:06:05,000 --> 00:06:09,760 Look, the aqueduct, water, everybody, SPQR. 106 00:06:09,760 --> 00:06:11,520 It really is everywhere. That's it. 107 00:06:20,160 --> 00:06:22,400 It's pretty unique to see the power 108 00:06:22,400 --> 00:06:26,000 of the people declared in every corner of their own city. 109 00:06:26,000 --> 00:06:27,480 Thanks to that, 110 00:06:27,480 --> 00:06:31,960 the Roman always maintain a strong sense of ownership over Rome, 111 00:06:31,960 --> 00:06:34,840 throughout the Republic and Imperial eras. 112 00:06:37,920 --> 00:06:41,360 But the Empire ended in 476 AD. 113 00:06:45,240 --> 00:06:47,720 Over the following centuries it was replaced by rulers 114 00:06:47,720 --> 00:06:50,600 more interested in exerting power over the people. 115 00:06:52,640 --> 00:06:53,800 Fantastico. 116 00:06:58,200 --> 00:07:01,640 By the eighth century Rome was the capital of the Papal States, 117 00:07:01,640 --> 00:07:03,880 ruled by cardinals and popes. 118 00:07:06,440 --> 00:07:09,080 These ambitious men of God loved nothing more 119 00:07:09,080 --> 00:07:14,040 than to proclaim their own vast power with grandiose monuments. 120 00:07:14,040 --> 00:07:18,280 But even they knew that they also had to please the people. 121 00:07:18,280 --> 00:07:19,800 For me, the best, 122 00:07:19,800 --> 00:07:23,840 most extravagant example of this Papal showmanship in all of Rome... 123 00:07:25,840 --> 00:07:27,200 ..is the Trevi Fountain. 124 00:07:33,680 --> 00:07:38,000 Commissioned by Pope Clement XII, in the 18th century. 125 00:07:38,000 --> 00:07:42,240 As famous as Italian ice cream, it looks like it's made of ice cream. 126 00:07:42,240 --> 00:07:44,160 The Trevi Fountain. 127 00:07:44,160 --> 00:07:46,480 It's so beautiful. 128 00:07:46,480 --> 00:07:49,080 In the Roman times it's bread and circuses. 129 00:07:49,080 --> 00:07:51,240 In the Papal times it's fountains. 130 00:07:51,240 --> 00:07:53,440 That's how you really impress your people. 131 00:07:53,440 --> 00:07:58,720 This is the culmination of a kind of centuries-long fountain competition. 132 00:07:58,720 --> 00:08:01,800 Every Pope wants to put a great fountain. 133 00:08:01,800 --> 00:08:03,760 It gets bigger and bigger and bigger and bigger 134 00:08:03,760 --> 00:08:07,120 and then, finally, this fountain goes up. 135 00:08:07,120 --> 00:08:09,400 And everybody just goes, "You know what..." 136 00:08:09,400 --> 00:08:12,040 "Maybe we should stop it." "Maybe we should stop now." 137 00:08:12,040 --> 00:08:14,880 It's the entire side of a palace. 138 00:08:14,880 --> 00:08:19,160 In the middle, the God of the seas, Neptune. 139 00:08:20,160 --> 00:08:23,600 On the left, you've got Abundance. 140 00:08:23,600 --> 00:08:27,440 She's emphasising that, "Oh, it's not just Papal extravagance. 141 00:08:27,440 --> 00:08:29,120 "Without this water..." 142 00:08:29,120 --> 00:08:31,000 Nothing grow. Nothing grows. 143 00:08:31,000 --> 00:08:34,120 And that's continued in this lovely detail of the plants... 144 00:08:34,120 --> 00:08:36,800 Yes. ..that's sort of growing up around the fountain. 145 00:08:38,040 --> 00:08:40,280 Love that one, look, growing on the rocks. 146 00:08:40,280 --> 00:08:43,000 Looks like a lettuce or something. Yeah. 147 00:08:43,960 --> 00:08:46,160 I think my favourite detail are 148 00:08:46,160 --> 00:08:48,960 these horses because they've got fish's tails, 149 00:08:48,960 --> 00:08:52,160 horse's bodies, and they've also got wings. 150 00:08:52,160 --> 00:08:54,440 Wings. Everything is there. 151 00:08:54,440 --> 00:08:56,520 And it's all invented in one go here. 152 00:08:56,520 --> 00:08:59,080 That is so brilliant. 153 00:08:59,080 --> 00:09:00,920 Even as it started to go up, 154 00:09:00,920 --> 00:09:03,840 people knew this was something pretty special, 155 00:09:03,840 --> 00:09:06,280 and that's why the inscriptions are so confusing 156 00:09:06,280 --> 00:09:09,040 because everyone wanted to have their name on it. 157 00:09:09,040 --> 00:09:11,960 So it was commissioned by Pope Clement XII, 158 00:09:11,960 --> 00:09:16,600 but in 1735, before the fountain is finished, he knows he's dying, 159 00:09:16,600 --> 00:09:19,680 so he quickly makes sure that his name was inscribed. 160 00:09:19,680 --> 00:09:24,080 Then, below, in the gold, we see Benedict XIV... 161 00:09:25,480 --> 00:09:26,800 ..in his... 162 00:09:26,800 --> 00:09:29,840 Well, basically, in his time, it was actually finished 163 00:09:29,840 --> 00:09:31,040 and declared open. 164 00:09:32,200 --> 00:09:35,840 And then if you look below, another Pope, Clement XIII, 165 00:09:35,840 --> 00:09:38,320 I think he did some additions to the aqueduct work 166 00:09:38,320 --> 00:09:41,040 or something. And he said, "No, I want my name on it, too." 167 00:09:41,040 --> 00:09:42,840 Yeah, it's not three coins in the fountain, 168 00:09:42,840 --> 00:09:44,440 it's three Popes in a fountain. 169 00:09:46,200 --> 00:09:49,000 But in the end, the Italian who really put his name on it, 170 00:09:49,000 --> 00:09:51,320 although he didn't put his name on it... 171 00:09:51,320 --> 00:09:53,520 Federico Fellini. Yes. 172 00:09:55,640 --> 00:09:57,720 Marcello, where are you? 173 00:10:02,440 --> 00:10:04,120 My goodness. 174 00:10:09,080 --> 00:10:10,520 Fellini, more than anyone else, 175 00:10:10,520 --> 00:10:12,160 with the scene in La Dolce Vita 176 00:10:12,160 --> 00:10:15,160 where Anita Ekberg wades into the fountain, 177 00:10:15,160 --> 00:10:18,000 and her friend, Marcello, Marcello Mastroianni. 178 00:10:18,000 --> 00:10:19,520 They made the fountain, that was 179 00:10:19,520 --> 00:10:21,320 already the fountain of the people of Rome, 180 00:10:21,320 --> 00:10:23,280 became the fountain of the people of the world. 181 00:10:23,280 --> 00:10:25,080 Of the world, that's right. 182 00:10:25,080 --> 00:10:26,120 Absolutely. 183 00:10:34,120 --> 00:10:36,640 Oscar winner Federico Fellini was 184 00:10:36,640 --> 00:10:39,960 one of the most famous Italian film directors. 185 00:10:39,960 --> 00:10:42,920 Although from Rimini, Fellini found his real home in Rome. 186 00:10:44,800 --> 00:10:47,480 He responded above all to the people of the city. 187 00:10:48,520 --> 00:10:50,840 Their passion, their love of spectacle 188 00:10:50,840 --> 00:10:54,000 and he put them at the heart of much of his work. 189 00:10:56,000 --> 00:10:59,120 In his 1960s masterpiece La Dolce Vita, 190 00:10:59,120 --> 00:11:01,800 a satire on Roman high society, 191 00:11:01,800 --> 00:11:05,920 he transformed the city's classical sites into vibrant film sets. 192 00:11:07,960 --> 00:11:10,600 Hollywood and its starlets flooded in, 193 00:11:10,600 --> 00:11:13,440 making Rome the centre of the world once again. 194 00:11:16,360 --> 00:11:20,560 In the '50s here you had... 195 00:11:20,560 --> 00:11:24,800 ..Gary Cooper, everybody, and there would be people there just watching. 196 00:11:24,800 --> 00:11:26,960 Just standing there on the street just watching. 197 00:11:26,960 --> 00:11:29,280 Look and see what's happening, who's having a coffee, 198 00:11:29,280 --> 00:11:31,160 who's drinking something. 199 00:11:31,160 --> 00:11:33,320 And Fellini was right at the base of this. 200 00:11:33,320 --> 00:11:38,240 He was kind of the spark and just illuminated the whole thing. 201 00:11:43,560 --> 00:11:45,680 Although Fellini could have worked 202 00:11:45,680 --> 00:11:48,200 with any of the big star of the time, 203 00:11:48,200 --> 00:11:50,600 he never turned his back on the Romans. 204 00:11:51,640 --> 00:11:56,000 And in any ordinary man and woman on the street he may find the potential 205 00:11:56,000 --> 00:12:00,600 extra to give him the raw quality he was always looking for in his film. 206 00:12:04,000 --> 00:12:07,360 Buongiorno, Silvano. Buongiorno. Buongiorno. 207 00:12:07,360 --> 00:12:10,920 Silvano Spoletini was 21 years old 208 00:12:10,920 --> 00:12:14,400 and working as an encyclopaedia binder 209 00:12:14,400 --> 00:12:18,640 when Fellini picked him to be an extra in his film Roma. 210 00:12:18,640 --> 00:12:22,920 From that moment he went on to have a 60-year career, 211 00:12:22,920 --> 00:12:27,360 working on films such as Ocean's 12 and Gangs of New York. 212 00:12:29,600 --> 00:12:33,640 They called him The Lighthouse because he was the leading light 213 00:12:33,640 --> 00:12:35,560 and everybody follow him. 214 00:13:21,360 --> 00:13:25,400 The capacity of the Roman to, kind of, reinvent themselves 215 00:13:25,400 --> 00:13:27,120 or to push little bit. 216 00:13:27,120 --> 00:13:29,880 What are you doing this morning? I haven't got no job. 217 00:13:29,880 --> 00:13:33,440 I'm walking down Piazza del Popolo. Maybe Fellini's going to pick me up. 218 00:13:33,440 --> 00:13:36,520 Maybe he's going to put me in a film. There's always a chance. 219 00:13:36,520 --> 00:13:38,680 I like that about the Romans, no? 220 00:13:38,680 --> 00:13:41,880 I think it's... That's why it's eternal, the city, 221 00:13:41,880 --> 00:13:44,480 because of the people. We say that so many times 222 00:13:54,360 --> 00:13:58,440 It's now time to cook Andrew a classic Roman dish. 223 00:13:58,440 --> 00:14:01,920 Despite the opulent culinary tradition of the rich, 224 00:14:01,920 --> 00:14:05,400 the food that survive is the cuisine of the people. 225 00:14:05,400 --> 00:14:06,680 Buongiorno. 226 00:14:06,680 --> 00:14:10,160 Simple dishes that have stood the test of time 227 00:14:10,160 --> 00:14:12,800 and everything that I need can be found 228 00:14:12,800 --> 00:14:15,440 in one of the city's hidden gems. 229 00:14:15,440 --> 00:14:19,120 Situated on Monteverde hill in south-west Rome, 230 00:14:19,120 --> 00:14:24,160 San Giovanni di Dio is one of Rome's most vibrant markets. 231 00:14:24,160 --> 00:14:26,640 I love this great amount of greenery. 232 00:14:26,640 --> 00:14:28,840 Greenery everywhere. You see how much? 233 00:14:28,840 --> 00:14:30,680 It's like... This is bietina. 234 00:14:30,680 --> 00:14:33,160 It's like all this different type of spinach. 235 00:14:33,160 --> 00:14:35,360 Very much at the base of what they cook. 236 00:14:35,360 --> 00:14:38,440 I mean, you don't see anything that is not seasonal here, do you? 237 00:14:38,440 --> 00:14:40,920 No. It's all grown around the corner. 238 00:14:40,920 --> 00:14:43,680 That doesn't say, flown in from Israel. 239 00:14:43,680 --> 00:14:46,960 That's, like, driven in by Enzo this morning. 240 00:14:50,200 --> 00:14:51,480 Andrew. 241 00:14:53,320 --> 00:14:55,840 That's what we want to buy. Oh, the Romanesco! 242 00:14:55,840 --> 00:14:57,520 Buongiorno. 243 00:14:57,520 --> 00:14:59,680 Due Romanesco. 244 00:14:59,680 --> 00:15:02,160 One of the main ingredients of my dish 245 00:15:02,160 --> 00:15:04,600 are these beautiful Romanesco broccoli. 246 00:15:04,600 --> 00:15:06,080 Perfecto. 247 00:15:08,200 --> 00:15:09,600 Due carota. 248 00:15:10,640 --> 00:15:12,600 Quattordici quarantacinque. 249 00:15:12,600 --> 00:15:14,200 Grazie. 250 00:15:14,200 --> 00:15:18,200 Next, it's time to buy the main ingredient. 251 00:15:18,200 --> 00:15:21,240 So, what are we going to buy? We're going to buy a razza. 252 00:15:21,240 --> 00:15:23,440 It's called arzilla in Rome 253 00:15:23,440 --> 00:15:25,400 and it's called skate in England. 254 00:15:25,400 --> 00:15:27,880 All the fish have so many different names. 255 00:15:27,880 --> 00:15:29,520 In all, it has about, like, 256 00:15:29,520 --> 00:15:31,400 12 different names in Italy. 257 00:15:31,400 --> 00:15:36,280 Right, right. HE SPEAKS ITALIAN 258 00:15:36,280 --> 00:15:38,400 So, you better get your skates on. 259 00:15:38,400 --> 00:15:41,960 THEY SPEAK ITALIAN 260 00:15:48,120 --> 00:15:50,280 He already knows what I'm going to cook. 261 00:15:50,280 --> 00:15:51,720 Which is..? 262 00:15:51,720 --> 00:15:55,680 Pasta broccoli con arzilla. 263 00:16:02,280 --> 00:16:05,160 THEY SPEAK ITALIAN 264 00:16:05,160 --> 00:16:07,320 62 years he's been in the market. 265 00:16:10,640 --> 00:16:12,920 Tu sempre questa..? Cento questa. 266 00:16:12,920 --> 00:16:15,680 It's 100 years that they've had this stall on this market. 267 00:16:15,680 --> 00:16:16,920 Wow. 268 00:16:22,280 --> 00:16:23,720 He says, "Do you want some parsley?" 269 00:16:23,720 --> 00:16:25,200 because when they serve the fish, 270 00:16:25,200 --> 00:16:27,200 they give you present, a little bit of parsley. 271 00:16:27,200 --> 00:16:28,880 What do you want more than that? 272 00:16:28,880 --> 00:16:31,000 Grazie. Grazie, buona giornata. 273 00:16:31,000 --> 00:16:32,560 So we have everything we need now. 274 00:16:32,560 --> 00:16:34,560 Now we have everything we need. 275 00:16:34,560 --> 00:16:35,600 So we can go and eat. 276 00:16:35,600 --> 00:16:37,320 Let's go and cook first. 277 00:16:37,320 --> 00:16:39,440 I forgot that bit. 278 00:16:39,440 --> 00:16:41,480 I forgot that bit... 279 00:16:43,080 --> 00:16:44,600 Una, una... 280 00:16:44,600 --> 00:16:45,800 What are you doing?! 281 00:16:51,240 --> 00:16:54,080 Andrew, today I'm going to cook you a dish that 282 00:16:54,080 --> 00:16:56,200 is really steeped in history. 283 00:16:56,200 --> 00:16:58,760 I'm going to cook a delicious centuries-old 284 00:16:58,760 --> 00:17:00,360 fish soup with vegetables. 285 00:17:01,760 --> 00:17:04,240 Let's start with the fish first. 286 00:17:04,240 --> 00:17:06,760 The skin of the skate is very spiky 287 00:17:06,760 --> 00:17:08,960 so it's important to scrape it 288 00:17:08,960 --> 00:17:10,840 properly under the tap. 289 00:17:10,840 --> 00:17:12,360 OK, look, Andrew, I mean, 290 00:17:12,360 --> 00:17:16,120 you can see the wings which are the eatable part. 291 00:17:16,120 --> 00:17:19,840 I'm going to go pretty straightforward in, like that. 292 00:17:19,840 --> 00:17:21,000 We're going to go round it. 293 00:17:22,360 --> 00:17:24,760 As you cut you can feel the blade 294 00:17:24,760 --> 00:17:28,520 hitting the bones, so just follow it the length of the fish. 295 00:17:28,520 --> 00:17:29,560 Eugh... 296 00:17:31,000 --> 00:17:34,520 You also have to remove the guts, head and tail, 297 00:17:34,520 --> 00:17:39,160 until you're left with just two beautiful wings. 298 00:17:39,160 --> 00:17:40,840 OK, so now... 299 00:17:40,840 --> 00:17:43,720 Now they really do look like angel wings, don't they? 300 00:17:43,720 --> 00:17:46,000 Now, this is the most important bit, OK. 301 00:17:46,000 --> 00:17:50,720 The trickiest job is to remove the skin from the wings of the skate. 302 00:17:50,720 --> 00:17:55,600 Of course, that's from the electricity department. 303 00:17:55,600 --> 00:17:59,880 Very good. You'd be a really good executioner or torturer, I think. 304 00:17:59,880 --> 00:18:01,120 You've got all the skills. 305 00:18:03,040 --> 00:18:05,760 If you carry on like that, chatting, 306 00:18:05,760 --> 00:18:10,040 I'll definitely execute you before the end. 307 00:18:10,040 --> 00:18:11,440 So here they are. 308 00:18:11,440 --> 00:18:14,920 Usually when you go to the market this is what you get. 309 00:18:14,920 --> 00:18:17,120 But you're going to use everything from that, 310 00:18:17,120 --> 00:18:19,000 you're not just going to use the wing, 311 00:18:19,000 --> 00:18:21,680 you're going to use all the bones and everything, to make a stock? 312 00:18:21,680 --> 00:18:24,400 That's what I want to make, a beautiful stock, with that. OK. 313 00:18:24,400 --> 00:18:26,720 So...I got my pan. 314 00:18:27,840 --> 00:18:30,880 I make the fish stock with carrot, celery, 315 00:18:30,880 --> 00:18:33,320 onions and a couple of bay leaves. 316 00:18:33,320 --> 00:18:35,880 That's what they used to put on Julius Caesar's head, isn't it? 317 00:18:35,880 --> 00:18:37,360 That's right. 318 00:18:37,360 --> 00:18:39,880 Bit of peppercorns. 319 00:18:39,880 --> 00:18:42,720 And finally, a couple of juniper cloves. 320 00:18:42,720 --> 00:18:44,120 Interesting. A couple of them, 321 00:18:44,120 --> 00:18:46,560 just to give them a little bit to sustain the flavour. 322 00:18:46,560 --> 00:18:47,840 Interesting. OK. 323 00:18:52,800 --> 00:18:56,680 Next, I put the fish bones in with the vegetables, 324 00:18:56,680 --> 00:18:58,920 as well as the two wings. 325 00:18:58,920 --> 00:19:00,880 So we put them in, both of them. 326 00:19:00,880 --> 00:19:02,240 Oh, you put the wings in too. 327 00:19:02,240 --> 00:19:03,720 That's right. Cold water. 328 00:19:04,960 --> 00:19:08,400 The last thing that goes in there is a little splash of wine. 329 00:19:10,040 --> 00:19:11,400 OK. The idea is this... 330 00:19:11,400 --> 00:19:14,080 I'm going to put that on a very tiny fire. 331 00:19:14,080 --> 00:19:17,360 Yeah. And I want it to go fast. 332 00:19:17,360 --> 00:19:19,920 You must remember one thing, that fish bones 333 00:19:19,920 --> 00:19:23,000 release all their flavours in about 20 minutes. 334 00:19:23,000 --> 00:19:27,840 So then, if you want to make it strong you have to reduce it. 335 00:19:27,840 --> 00:19:30,080 It's all about, like, very 336 00:19:30,080 --> 00:19:33,920 intelligently stealing the flavour out of these things, yeah. 337 00:19:33,920 --> 00:19:36,200 You quite often talk about persuading. 338 00:19:36,200 --> 00:19:41,040 Persuading the food to cooperate with you. 339 00:19:41,040 --> 00:19:42,680 You have to make it fall in love 340 00:19:42,680 --> 00:19:44,760 with you and you fall in love with it and 341 00:19:44,760 --> 00:19:47,560 then you make a beautiful thing now together. 342 00:19:50,800 --> 00:19:52,840 As the stock is heating up, it's 343 00:19:52,840 --> 00:19:55,440 important to skim off any floating froth, 344 00:19:55,440 --> 00:19:57,560 to make sure that it's clear when cooked. 345 00:20:00,120 --> 00:20:04,880 After 15 minutes, we can take the skate wings out and let them rest. 346 00:20:04,880 --> 00:20:06,240 Oh! 347 00:20:06,240 --> 00:20:07,520 I lost a little bit. 348 00:20:07,520 --> 00:20:09,480 So, I'm going to let that cook. 349 00:20:09,480 --> 00:20:10,720 And hold on... 350 00:20:10,720 --> 00:20:12,480 I'm going to show you now what I'm doing. 351 00:20:14,160 --> 00:20:15,840 OK. 352 00:20:15,840 --> 00:20:18,960 We're going to prepare the broccoli. Oh, I love these. Yeah? 353 00:20:18,960 --> 00:20:20,200 Such a beautiful thing. 354 00:20:20,200 --> 00:20:22,880 Now, I'm going to cut them into really 355 00:20:22,880 --> 00:20:24,760 lovely sort of floret 356 00:20:24,760 --> 00:20:26,960 as they call it in English, no? 357 00:20:26,960 --> 00:20:30,040 And some of these will become a little bit more overcooked 358 00:20:30,040 --> 00:20:31,720 and melt away in the sauce. 359 00:20:31,720 --> 00:20:33,640 Some of this will be really nice and 360 00:20:33,640 --> 00:20:35,520 give you a little crunch, you know. 361 00:20:36,800 --> 00:20:39,920 Next, I start preparing the base for the soup. 362 00:20:39,920 --> 00:20:41,240 Bit of olive oil... 363 00:20:41,240 --> 00:20:45,200 Onions, celery, carrots, garlic, the Romanesco broccoli, 364 00:20:45,200 --> 00:20:47,440 and the anchovies. Oo-ooh! 365 00:20:47,440 --> 00:20:48,800 And I put it there. 366 00:20:49,920 --> 00:20:51,960 OK. I'm going to let 367 00:20:51,960 --> 00:20:54,600 those melt away... 368 00:20:55,600 --> 00:20:58,000 ..with it, eh. Mmm, good smell. 369 00:21:00,280 --> 00:21:02,040 Vino, in it. 370 00:21:02,040 --> 00:21:03,800 SIZZLING 371 00:21:03,800 --> 00:21:05,640 You hear that..? HE IMITATES SIZZLING 372 00:21:05,640 --> 00:21:08,800 That's what I want. 373 00:21:08,800 --> 00:21:10,520 A few pieces of tomato. 374 00:21:10,520 --> 00:21:14,800 And to give it an absolutely amazing colour, tomato paste. 375 00:21:23,640 --> 00:21:25,440 This is my stock. 376 00:21:27,080 --> 00:21:31,080 We're going to put some of the stock on that. 377 00:21:31,080 --> 00:21:34,200 I'm going to let it cook for at least... 378 00:21:35,400 --> 00:21:36,680 ..ten minutes. 379 00:21:38,040 --> 00:21:40,480 Time to finish the dish by adding a short type of pasta 380 00:21:40,480 --> 00:21:41,760 that's perfect for soups. 381 00:21:43,720 --> 00:21:45,000 Don't forget to stir it. 382 00:21:45,000 --> 00:21:46,880 You don't want the pasta to stick at the bottom. 383 00:21:49,760 --> 00:21:51,920 Oh, so that's the finishing touch. 384 00:21:51,920 --> 00:21:53,360 Oo-oo-ooh! 385 00:21:55,520 --> 00:21:57,680 What a lovely idea for a dish. 386 00:21:59,960 --> 00:22:01,600 OK, you can prepare the table now. 387 00:22:01,600 --> 00:22:03,240 Because we're nearly there, eh. 388 00:22:06,040 --> 00:22:07,920 Come, Andrew. Woh-oh... 389 00:22:12,200 --> 00:22:14,520 Oh, the smell is fantastic. 390 00:22:19,920 --> 00:22:23,840 Giorgio, that is fantastic. 391 00:22:23,840 --> 00:22:25,640 This is Rome. 392 00:22:25,640 --> 00:22:28,000 Intenso, it's intense. 393 00:22:28,000 --> 00:22:31,160 Also, the broccolo adds this really nice flavour 394 00:22:31,160 --> 00:22:32,920 and it adds a little bit of 395 00:22:32,920 --> 00:22:35,000 bitterness to that. Yep. 396 00:22:35,000 --> 00:22:39,000 If you came to Rome and you were a pilgrim, not so much money, 397 00:22:39,000 --> 00:22:40,560 you might end up eating this. 398 00:22:40,560 --> 00:22:43,280 Definitely. That was the staple. 399 00:22:43,280 --> 00:22:44,640 Really? Absolutely. 400 00:22:44,640 --> 00:22:45,760 If you go back in time... 401 00:22:45,760 --> 00:22:46,840 That's it. 402 00:22:48,160 --> 00:22:51,360 The ideal dish for a tired pilgrim. 403 00:22:51,360 --> 00:22:54,400 Perfected, no wonder, here in Rome. 404 00:23:01,320 --> 00:23:03,400 Following the counterreformation, 405 00:23:03,400 --> 00:23:05,600 the Catholic Church did its utmost 406 00:23:05,600 --> 00:23:07,960 to restore Rome's spiritual authority... 407 00:23:09,040 --> 00:23:11,080 ..raising the great dome of St Peter's... 408 00:23:14,520 --> 00:23:18,320 ..and building a multitude of other churches as beacons to the faithful. 409 00:23:19,400 --> 00:23:22,760 Thousands of ragged pilgrims in search of redemption 410 00:23:22,760 --> 00:23:27,560 flooded the city, making Rome a city of stark contrasts. 411 00:23:27,560 --> 00:23:28,760 Rich architecture... 412 00:23:30,840 --> 00:23:34,040 ..alongside desperately poor people, living on the streets... 413 00:23:36,400 --> 00:23:39,400 ..and nobody captured that better than the painter Caravaggio. 414 00:23:42,440 --> 00:23:45,080 I want to show Giorgio two of my favourite paintings... 415 00:23:47,040 --> 00:23:52,720 ..breathtaking works that would give the travellers hope and consolation. 416 00:23:52,720 --> 00:23:56,960 So, Giorgio, this is the burial chapel of Tiberio Cerasi. 417 00:23:56,960 --> 00:24:01,240 He was the principal banker to the Pope, had a lot of money, 418 00:24:01,240 --> 00:24:02,640 but he knew he was dying, 419 00:24:02,640 --> 00:24:06,080 and so he commissioned the paintings in this chapel, 420 00:24:06,080 --> 00:24:09,160 two of them are by Caravaggio. 421 00:24:09,160 --> 00:24:11,240 This one... 422 00:24:11,240 --> 00:24:13,320 ..shows St Peter. 423 00:24:13,320 --> 00:24:16,240 And immediately you are face-to-face 424 00:24:16,240 --> 00:24:19,120 with Caravaggio's great revolution, 425 00:24:19,120 --> 00:24:23,800 like Fellini so many years later, to cast the people from the street, 426 00:24:23,800 --> 00:24:27,520 from the streets of Rome, and to put them in his paintings. 427 00:24:27,520 --> 00:24:30,000 And he's doing that here, with this terrible scene, 428 00:24:30,000 --> 00:24:32,120 the crucifixion of St Peter. 429 00:24:32,120 --> 00:24:36,320 It's almost as if he might have used as his model that poor man, 430 00:24:36,320 --> 00:24:38,600 that beggar that we saw on the steps 431 00:24:38,600 --> 00:24:41,080 of the other church around the corner. 432 00:24:41,080 --> 00:24:45,000 And in his own time these paintings were really shocking. 433 00:24:45,000 --> 00:24:46,640 Oh, it's shocking now 434 00:24:46,640 --> 00:24:48,400 with the imagery that we are used to 435 00:24:48,400 --> 00:24:50,960 but it's still quite powerful, this one, you know. 436 00:24:50,960 --> 00:24:55,160 And that dirty feet it just says so much. 437 00:24:55,160 --> 00:24:57,720 Because Italian painting at that moment, before Caravaggio, 438 00:24:57,720 --> 00:24:59,360 was very artificial, very mannered, 439 00:24:59,360 --> 00:25:00,960 very contrived, 440 00:25:00,960 --> 00:25:03,520 very little smell of reality in it, 441 00:25:03,520 --> 00:25:07,440 and suddenly with Caravaggio you've got Peter's sunburnt face, 442 00:25:07,440 --> 00:25:10,120 his scrawny torso, 443 00:25:10,120 --> 00:25:12,360 his agonised expression, 444 00:25:12,360 --> 00:25:15,200 and Caravaggio's painting it almost 445 00:25:15,200 --> 00:25:18,600 as a grisly scene of hydraulic engineering. 446 00:25:18,600 --> 00:25:19,880 Man driven. 447 00:25:19,880 --> 00:25:22,880 You're going to lift him up, put him on the cross. 448 00:25:24,080 --> 00:25:26,440 But I think also Caravaggio's giving hope. 449 00:25:26,440 --> 00:25:28,760 Because this church is the first church 450 00:25:28,760 --> 00:25:31,080 that you'd come to when you enter Rome 451 00:25:31,080 --> 00:25:34,080 because that, outside, was once the gate to Rome. 452 00:25:34,080 --> 00:25:36,400 Now there's a road outside, but in the past it was fields. 453 00:25:37,560 --> 00:25:40,680 You had dirty feet, you identify yourself with them. 454 00:25:40,680 --> 00:25:42,720 Exactly. Yeah. 455 00:25:42,720 --> 00:25:47,760 Cerasi, whose mortuary chapel this is, he was clever. 456 00:25:47,760 --> 00:25:51,880 Not only did he commission Caravaggio to decorate the chapel, 457 00:25:51,880 --> 00:25:56,360 but he also got the leading other painter of Rome at the time, 458 00:25:56,360 --> 00:25:58,320 Annibale Carracci, 459 00:25:58,320 --> 00:26:02,320 to paint the main altarpiece. 460 00:26:02,320 --> 00:26:04,240 Below you've got the Apostles 461 00:26:04,240 --> 00:26:07,520 and it shows the moment when the Madonna's soul 462 00:26:07,520 --> 00:26:09,320 is assumed into heaven. 463 00:26:09,320 --> 00:26:12,080 Up she rises into the skies. 464 00:26:14,800 --> 00:26:17,560 This is really the dawn of the baroque style. 465 00:26:18,760 --> 00:26:22,640 And what the baroque style exists to do is to make us, 466 00:26:22,640 --> 00:26:26,800 the worshippers coming to church, feel a little bit smaller, 467 00:26:26,800 --> 00:26:29,160 a little bit on our knees, 468 00:26:29,160 --> 00:26:31,720 a little bit "Oh!", in awe. 469 00:26:31,720 --> 00:26:33,800 This is a painting that says, "Yes, 470 00:26:33,800 --> 00:26:37,720 "you can come here to worship but remember your place." 471 00:26:37,720 --> 00:26:41,000 And what's interesting is that the Carracci painting, 472 00:26:41,000 --> 00:26:46,680 that was installed before Caravaggio painted his second picture. 473 00:26:46,680 --> 00:26:48,040 And what did he do? 474 00:26:49,040 --> 00:26:51,920 It's this enormous horse. 475 00:26:51,920 --> 00:26:55,240 And he puts the horse's arse in the face... 476 00:26:57,200 --> 00:26:59,000 ..of the Virgin of Carracci. 477 00:26:59,000 --> 00:27:01,040 As if to say, 478 00:27:01,040 --> 00:27:03,040 "This is what I think... 479 00:27:03,040 --> 00:27:06,400 "..of your elevated Christianity." 480 00:27:06,400 --> 00:27:07,920 I like this Caravaggio guy. 481 00:27:09,400 --> 00:27:11,600 He's quite cool. He really is. 482 00:27:11,600 --> 00:27:13,200 He's cool, man. 483 00:27:13,200 --> 00:27:17,920 This is St Paul or Saul as he was, 484 00:27:17,920 --> 00:27:20,200 at the moment of his conversion. 485 00:27:20,200 --> 00:27:22,160 That's the subject of the painting. 486 00:27:22,160 --> 00:27:24,360 This is the moment on the road to Damascus 487 00:27:24,360 --> 00:27:26,600 when he becomes a Christian. 488 00:27:27,640 --> 00:27:29,600 Boom, you can hear it. 489 00:27:29,600 --> 00:27:30,920 I never fell off the horse. 490 00:27:30,920 --> 00:27:33,240 I fell off a few motorbikes. 491 00:27:33,240 --> 00:27:34,400 I never fell off the horse. 492 00:27:34,400 --> 00:27:36,440 But I can, you know, kind of like, 493 00:27:36,440 --> 00:27:40,160 you can see he's been struck and he's almost underneath the horse. 494 00:27:40,160 --> 00:27:43,480 Caravaggio means the horse and the groom... 495 00:27:43,480 --> 00:27:45,160 ..who looks a bit like Joseph, 496 00:27:45,160 --> 00:27:47,400 I think to evoke the idea of the Nativity. 497 00:27:47,400 --> 00:27:48,960 So you do a kind of double take 498 00:27:48,960 --> 00:27:51,240 cos you look down from them and you expect to see 499 00:27:51,240 --> 00:27:52,840 the baby Jesus by the manger. 500 00:27:52,840 --> 00:27:54,760 But, no, you see Paul. 501 00:27:54,760 --> 00:27:56,880 But then, after you've done the double take, 502 00:27:56,880 --> 00:27:58,760 I think that's when the meaning unfolds. 503 00:27:58,760 --> 00:28:01,560 Because, yes, at this moment of his conversion, 504 00:28:01,560 --> 00:28:04,720 Paul is like the little baby Jesus in the manger. 505 00:28:04,720 --> 00:28:08,480 He's lying helpless on the ground. 506 00:28:08,480 --> 00:28:11,680 And then Caravaggio, with a stroke of genius, I think, 507 00:28:11,680 --> 00:28:14,560 has Paul stretch out his arms, 508 00:28:14,560 --> 00:28:19,720 so in the same moment he's also Christ on the cross. 509 00:28:19,720 --> 00:28:21,320 So light floods him. 510 00:28:21,320 --> 00:28:23,400 He is spiritually enlightened. 511 00:28:23,400 --> 00:28:28,280 It's one of the most amazing pictures in the world. 512 00:28:28,280 --> 00:28:32,840 I think this is one of the best painting I ever seen in my life. 513 00:28:32,840 --> 00:28:34,440 He's a communicator... 514 00:28:35,480 --> 00:28:38,040 ..to the people like me. 515 00:28:38,040 --> 00:28:40,200 And that is something that I would 516 00:28:40,200 --> 00:28:42,600 now come to the church to have a look at that. 517 00:28:43,880 --> 00:28:46,800 So, you vote for Caravaggio? 518 00:28:46,800 --> 00:28:48,480 Due a zero. 519 00:28:51,960 --> 00:28:53,920 For centuries after his death, 520 00:28:53,920 --> 00:28:57,960 Caravaggio was sneered at as a crude and vulgar artist. 521 00:29:01,680 --> 00:29:03,800 He was rediscovered partly by 522 00:29:03,800 --> 00:29:06,880 Italian film-makers, including Fellini, 523 00:29:06,880 --> 00:29:09,560 who loved his cinematic use of light 524 00:29:09,560 --> 00:29:12,240 as well as the way he used real people. 525 00:29:14,840 --> 00:29:16,200 And since the mid-20th century, 526 00:29:16,200 --> 00:29:19,240 Caravaggio's reputation has been on the rise. 527 00:29:19,240 --> 00:29:22,320 He's now one of the world's best-loved painters. 528 00:29:30,120 --> 00:29:32,320 Oh! Oh! 529 00:29:32,320 --> 00:29:33,520 Va bene... 530 00:29:34,600 --> 00:29:37,160 This is the old Roman Way. 531 00:29:37,160 --> 00:29:39,960 Oh, man! Julius Caesar used to come down this road, man. 532 00:29:39,960 --> 00:29:42,040 Got to be excited about it. 533 00:29:45,160 --> 00:29:47,760 Rome is the political centre of Italy. 534 00:29:47,760 --> 00:29:51,840 Nowhere else will you find so many politician and bureaucrats... 535 00:29:51,840 --> 00:29:54,040 ..or so many limousines stuck in traffic. 536 00:29:55,840 --> 00:29:59,640 Ordinary Romans are used to rubbing shoulders with those in power 537 00:29:59,640 --> 00:30:02,600 and they are prepared to put up a fight. 538 00:30:02,600 --> 00:30:04,840 GIORGIO SCREAMS 539 00:30:07,160 --> 00:30:08,520 Let's go and have a coffee. 540 00:30:10,960 --> 00:30:13,400 Romans love nothing more than discussing politics 541 00:30:13,400 --> 00:30:16,240 from their first espresso of the day. 542 00:30:16,240 --> 00:30:18,520 To be the mayor of this town, 543 00:30:18,520 --> 00:30:20,760 I think is the hardest job. 544 00:30:20,760 --> 00:30:24,760 Whatever you do, you'll always have someone who says the contrary. 545 00:30:24,760 --> 00:30:26,960 How many bureaucrats are there in Rome? 546 00:30:26,960 --> 00:30:28,120 Well, that's the thing. 547 00:30:28,120 --> 00:30:30,400 Quanti burocrati a Roma? 548 00:30:30,400 --> 00:30:31,480 Troppi. Troppi! 549 00:30:32,520 --> 00:30:34,480 Too many, too many. 550 00:30:36,360 --> 00:30:37,960 But, at the end of the day, 551 00:30:37,960 --> 00:30:40,800 Rome would be always Rome because of the people of Rome. 552 00:30:40,800 --> 00:30:42,840 Yeah. You can put as many laws as they want, 553 00:30:42,840 --> 00:30:44,880 but they will do whatever they want, 554 00:30:44,880 --> 00:30:47,800 because they've been doing that for the eternal time. 555 00:30:47,800 --> 00:30:49,840 That's why they've been here for such a long time, 556 00:30:49,840 --> 00:30:51,520 because that's what they do. 557 00:30:51,520 --> 00:30:52,880 They do what they want. 558 00:30:52,880 --> 00:30:54,760 I read in the paper that the 559 00:30:54,760 --> 00:30:58,120 highest-paid head of traffic wardens in the world 560 00:30:58,120 --> 00:31:00,720 is the head of the traffic wardens of Rome. 561 00:31:00,720 --> 00:31:03,120 He gets paid more than the President of the United States! 562 00:31:03,120 --> 00:31:05,600 Yeah, exactly, he gets paid, like, half a million pounds. 563 00:31:05,600 --> 00:31:08,280 And, still, everybody parks where they like. 564 00:31:11,200 --> 00:31:13,160 Everybody do what they want. 565 00:31:13,160 --> 00:31:15,360 I want to take Giorgio to see a monument 566 00:31:15,360 --> 00:31:17,920 that hails the moment when Rome first became 567 00:31:17,920 --> 00:31:20,120 the centre of modern Italian politics. 568 00:31:23,320 --> 00:31:25,360 At the end of the 19th century Italy 569 00:31:25,360 --> 00:31:27,400 was still divided into many states, 570 00:31:27,400 --> 00:31:28,680 under different rulers. 571 00:31:30,160 --> 00:31:35,400 But in 1861 the Savoy family, under their king, Vittorio Emanuele, 572 00:31:35,400 --> 00:31:40,400 had placed their stamp on the unification of the country. 573 00:31:40,400 --> 00:31:43,680 And ten years later declared Rome its capital. 574 00:31:44,680 --> 00:31:46,920 For the Roman people, it also meant 575 00:31:46,920 --> 00:31:49,720 the end of over a thousand years of papal rule. 576 00:31:49,720 --> 00:31:52,080 So to celebrate this moment, 577 00:31:52,080 --> 00:31:54,560 and the crowning of Italy's first king... 578 00:31:57,600 --> 00:31:59,760 ..the Vittoriano was erected, 579 00:31:59,760 --> 00:32:01,640 right in the centre of Rome, 580 00:32:01,640 --> 00:32:03,480 next to the Imperial Forum. 581 00:32:04,520 --> 00:32:06,320 What a great beauty. 582 00:32:06,320 --> 00:32:08,560 Which one? I like these bits. 583 00:32:08,560 --> 00:32:10,200 I'm not so sure about... 584 00:32:10,200 --> 00:32:11,480 That big one, over there. 585 00:32:12,800 --> 00:32:16,240 When you see it in the context of real Roman ruins, 586 00:32:16,240 --> 00:32:18,320 I think you get a sense of how... 587 00:32:18,320 --> 00:32:20,760 ..just crazily enormous, 588 00:32:20,760 --> 00:32:23,080 how glaringly white, 589 00:32:23,080 --> 00:32:26,240 how astonishingly pompous, 590 00:32:26,240 --> 00:32:29,160 is the monument to Vittorio Emanuele. 591 00:32:29,160 --> 00:32:31,760 I mean, this is Vittorio Emanuele coming to Rome, 592 00:32:31,760 --> 00:32:36,000 saying, "Italy, one Italy, under me". 593 00:32:36,000 --> 00:32:38,240 And he's basically 594 00:32:38,240 --> 00:32:42,800 trying to replace Marco Aurelio, Marcus Aurelius, who's in the back, 595 00:32:42,800 --> 00:32:44,880 obscured almost, from the view of the Romans, 596 00:32:44,880 --> 00:32:47,240 by this great white elephant. 597 00:32:47,240 --> 00:32:50,640 With him on his horse, he's saying, "I'm the new emperor." 598 00:32:50,640 --> 00:32:53,440 Yeah. It's the size of a mountain. 599 00:32:53,440 --> 00:32:58,720 I mean, I think it's 70 metres high, more than 100 metres across. 600 00:32:58,720 --> 00:33:01,720 It was inaugurated, I think, in 1912 601 00:33:01,720 --> 00:33:04,240 and finished 13 years later, 602 00:33:04,240 --> 00:33:09,120 the greatest job creation scheme in the history of Italian sculpture. 603 00:33:09,120 --> 00:33:10,560 The Roman never liked... 604 00:33:10,560 --> 00:33:12,440 You know what they call this? 605 00:33:12,440 --> 00:33:15,160 They call it the typewriter. The typewriter? Yes. 606 00:33:15,160 --> 00:33:16,800 It looks like a typewriter. 607 00:33:16,800 --> 00:33:18,680 You know, one of the old ones, that you just... 608 00:33:18,680 --> 00:33:21,480 Swings along. I think that's the whole problem, though, 609 00:33:21,480 --> 00:33:24,240 is that the language that's being typed out on the typewriter is not 610 00:33:24,240 --> 00:33:26,560 really Roman, not Italian. 611 00:33:26,560 --> 00:33:29,400 This is the classicism of Germany. 612 00:33:29,400 --> 00:33:31,640 I mean, it could almost be made of ice. 613 00:33:31,640 --> 00:33:35,480 It's glaring, it's white, it's enormous, it's like the Valhalla. 614 00:33:35,480 --> 00:33:37,120 This is Wagner, not Verdi. 615 00:33:37,120 --> 00:33:41,320 Yeah. The whiteness really puts it at odds with everything else. 616 00:33:41,320 --> 00:33:43,320 Because, I don't know, like, look at those tree, 617 00:33:43,320 --> 00:33:45,440 looks in harmony with the church and things. 618 00:33:45,440 --> 00:33:48,920 You kind of like, the shapes, they're all working, these columns, 619 00:33:48,920 --> 00:33:52,360 and suddenly it's like an eyesore, isn't it? 620 00:33:52,360 --> 00:33:55,520 Think about the Capitoline Hill is just behind that. 621 00:33:55,520 --> 00:33:59,320 So in order to build this, what did they build it on top? 622 00:33:59,320 --> 00:34:01,080 Surely there must be something. 623 00:34:01,080 --> 00:34:03,720 Yeah. No, no, they did, they knocked down some temples, 624 00:34:03,720 --> 00:34:06,200 they covered up a piece of ancient Roman history 625 00:34:06,200 --> 00:34:08,680 to create the modern monument. 626 00:34:08,680 --> 00:34:12,560 I mean, this is absolutely in the centre of the city. 627 00:34:12,560 --> 00:34:15,720 And I think that's again part of the problem the people here 628 00:34:15,720 --> 00:34:17,120 have had accepting it - 629 00:34:17,120 --> 00:34:20,920 they know that this has abolished part of their own history. 630 00:34:20,920 --> 00:34:22,760 And so there he is on his horse, 631 00:34:22,760 --> 00:34:24,320 the new Marcus Aurelius, 632 00:34:24,320 --> 00:34:25,840 Vittorio Emanuele II, 633 00:34:25,840 --> 00:34:27,240 and he's saying, 634 00:34:27,240 --> 00:34:30,000 "Friends, Romans, countrymen, 635 00:34:30,000 --> 00:34:31,480 "lend me your ears", but I think 636 00:34:31,480 --> 00:34:33,680 they never really did lend them their ears. 637 00:34:35,320 --> 00:34:37,560 I really don't like the typewriter. 638 00:34:37,560 --> 00:34:40,720 But the Savoy family rule wasn't all bad news for Rome. 639 00:34:43,960 --> 00:34:48,440 In fact, one of my favourite districts was created under them. 640 00:34:48,440 --> 00:34:51,280 A place made for the people. 641 00:34:51,280 --> 00:34:53,400 And I really want to show it to Andrew. 642 00:34:55,000 --> 00:34:57,160 At the beginning of the 20th century, 643 00:34:57,160 --> 00:34:59,000 from being a sleepy village, 644 00:34:59,000 --> 00:35:02,920 Rome rapidly became a frenetic European capital. 645 00:35:04,200 --> 00:35:06,320 The Savoy family started building 646 00:35:06,320 --> 00:35:08,640 social housing for workers such as the Garbatella. 647 00:35:10,520 --> 00:35:12,800 Once at the very edges of the city, 648 00:35:12,800 --> 00:35:14,800 and now right in the centre, 649 00:35:14,800 --> 00:35:17,080 only ten minutes by scooter from the Coliseum. 650 00:35:19,720 --> 00:35:21,720 Here we are, in Garbatella, man. 651 00:35:23,360 --> 00:35:24,760 Where are we going, up the steps? 652 00:35:24,760 --> 00:35:25,800 Yeah, let's go up there. 653 00:35:27,520 --> 00:35:29,040 Come and have a look at this. 654 00:35:29,040 --> 00:35:34,760 Garbatella, garbato, means to be kind, you know. 655 00:35:34,760 --> 00:35:36,920 So this is a place where you're welcome. 656 00:35:36,920 --> 00:35:40,000 And look, we are in the centre of town. 657 00:35:40,000 --> 00:35:41,560 This is not the Rome that I know. 658 00:35:41,560 --> 00:35:43,640 I mean, this is so peaceful. 659 00:35:43,640 --> 00:35:47,400 Where are the guys on motor scooters, zipping past you? 660 00:35:48,720 --> 00:35:52,000 Absolutely. But look, the architecture is incredible. 661 00:35:52,000 --> 00:35:55,240 Look at this place. But this is the 1920s. 662 00:35:55,240 --> 00:35:59,520 When I see a house like that, I mean, my association is to think, 663 00:35:59,520 --> 00:36:01,920 "Suddenly I am actually in the countryside in Italy." 664 00:36:01,920 --> 00:36:04,800 Yeah, little patch where you can grow his little basil 665 00:36:04,800 --> 00:36:07,840 and his little potato or tomato. 666 00:36:07,840 --> 00:36:10,320 But what I love about it is that it is so Italian. 667 00:36:10,320 --> 00:36:13,440 It's a little bit chaotic, a little bit unkempt, 668 00:36:13,440 --> 00:36:14,760 but in a very beautiful way. 669 00:36:14,760 --> 00:36:18,120 Like, look where they've got the two pipes presumably were there one time 670 00:36:18,120 --> 00:36:20,240 but they haven't bothered to paint it back. 671 00:36:20,240 --> 00:36:21,920 There's the plaster round the window. 672 00:36:21,920 --> 00:36:23,840 This is charm. It's charming, it's lovely. 673 00:36:23,840 --> 00:36:25,520 It's really like a little paradise. 674 00:36:25,520 --> 00:36:28,040 From the people I've seen living here, 675 00:36:28,040 --> 00:36:30,520 quite a lot of them are getting on a bit now. 676 00:36:30,520 --> 00:36:32,840 It's as if they are part of the original community. 677 00:36:32,840 --> 00:36:34,800 People in their 60s, people in their 70s... 678 00:36:34,800 --> 00:36:36,240 You want to live with the people 679 00:36:36,240 --> 00:36:38,880 that you love and you want to die with the people that you love. 680 00:36:38,880 --> 00:36:40,760 Surrounded by it, the sense of community, 681 00:36:40,760 --> 00:36:42,400 makes you feel like a human. 682 00:36:52,920 --> 00:36:56,000 Buongiorno. Buongiorno. 683 00:36:56,000 --> 00:36:58,400 Qual'e il nomo del tuo cane? Pepe. 684 00:36:58,400 --> 00:37:00,920 Pepe! Buongiorno, Pepe. Cacio e pepe. 685 00:37:00,920 --> 00:37:02,840 Perfect. 686 00:37:02,840 --> 00:37:05,840 Salve. Buongiorno. 687 00:37:08,920 --> 00:37:11,160 In designing the Garbatella, 688 00:37:11,160 --> 00:37:15,280 Rome's urban planners were greatly influenced by the English trend 689 00:37:15,280 --> 00:37:19,000 known as the garden city movement of the early 20th century. 690 00:37:19,000 --> 00:37:20,880 So in a way, 691 00:37:20,880 --> 00:37:22,440 this is a Roman version of 692 00:37:22,440 --> 00:37:24,640 Hampstead Garden Suburb in London. 693 00:37:27,680 --> 00:37:30,880 But the character of this village on the edge of the city 694 00:37:30,880 --> 00:37:32,520 will change in the 1920s... 695 00:37:33,640 --> 00:37:35,360 ..when the fascists came to power. 696 00:37:40,240 --> 00:37:42,840 Fascism and its drive for modernisation 697 00:37:42,840 --> 00:37:44,560 took an iron grip of Italy, 698 00:37:44,560 --> 00:37:45,840 and most of all, Rome. 699 00:37:48,360 --> 00:37:51,600 Thousands more workers from the countryside flooded into the city. 700 00:37:55,040 --> 00:37:57,920 And to house them, a new generation of architects 701 00:37:57,920 --> 00:38:02,200 came up with grander designs and bigger buildings for Garbatella. 702 00:38:06,360 --> 00:38:09,960 You see, Andrew, just round the corner it changes completely. 703 00:38:09,960 --> 00:38:12,400 Wow. And they're just so grand. 704 00:38:12,400 --> 00:38:14,760 They are. They're like palaces. 705 00:38:14,760 --> 00:38:17,720 This style is called baroquetto. 706 00:38:17,720 --> 00:38:19,480 Baroquetto. 707 00:38:19,480 --> 00:38:21,440 That's right. Which means little Baroque. 708 00:38:21,440 --> 00:38:23,680 Yeah, baby Baroque. Baby Baroque. 709 00:38:23,680 --> 00:38:26,680 It's fantastic cos it is! That's like a Baroque palace. 710 00:38:26,680 --> 00:38:30,640 Except you see these heads normally on an aristocratic palace. 711 00:38:30,640 --> 00:38:33,520 That's right. But here, the heads 712 00:38:33,520 --> 00:38:36,800 are on the side of a council flat block, 713 00:38:36,800 --> 00:38:40,400 and they're the heads of people from the 1920s, or maybe the 1930s. 714 00:38:40,400 --> 00:38:42,200 Look at her little bob hairstyle. 715 00:38:42,200 --> 00:38:44,920 Unbelievable, isn't it? It's fantastic. 716 00:38:44,920 --> 00:38:48,680 Look, there's something like a gargoyle on the front of the house. 717 00:38:49,720 --> 00:38:50,920 It's not just building. 718 00:38:50,920 --> 00:38:54,320 I can imagine things happening behind those closed windows, 719 00:38:54,320 --> 00:38:56,800 all those little houses with all these little kitchens 720 00:38:56,800 --> 00:38:59,680 and a lot of this lovely food that comes from the countryside, 721 00:38:59,680 --> 00:39:00,920 from the connections. 722 00:39:00,920 --> 00:39:03,040 And they have... The market is very alive. 723 00:39:03,040 --> 00:39:05,320 This is the spirits of Rome, 724 00:39:05,320 --> 00:39:07,480 is within these people. 725 00:39:07,480 --> 00:39:09,800 Yeah. You know, everything comes and goes in this city, 726 00:39:09,800 --> 00:39:11,080 everything gets buried, 727 00:39:11,080 --> 00:39:12,880 it's just the people who stays on top. 728 00:39:16,880 --> 00:39:18,920 It's unusual, pretty amazing, really, 729 00:39:18,920 --> 00:39:21,400 to see a fully working community, 730 00:39:21,400 --> 00:39:25,440 almost like a village, right in the middle of the 21st-century city. 731 00:39:30,480 --> 00:39:32,520 Garbatella, bella, Andrew. 732 00:39:32,520 --> 00:39:34,480 If I had to live somewhere in Rome, 733 00:39:34,480 --> 00:39:37,560 I would love to live in Garbatella. 734 00:39:37,560 --> 00:39:39,720 I think it fits my style. 735 00:39:42,160 --> 00:39:45,800 Yeah, I can see you, just in your vest, like, cooking outside, maybe. 736 00:39:48,360 --> 00:39:50,280 Now we're going back onto the cobbles. 737 00:39:50,280 --> 00:39:51,680 Uh-uh-uh-uh-uh... 738 00:39:59,200 --> 00:40:02,640 You can feel the ancient power of the people all over Rome, 739 00:40:02,640 --> 00:40:04,960 even in some unlikely places... 740 00:40:06,360 --> 00:40:09,280 ..such as the palaces of the richest noble families. 741 00:40:10,520 --> 00:40:15,160 Because they knew just how hard it was to rule in this fickle town, 742 00:40:15,160 --> 00:40:19,320 they built their palazzi-like fortresses to keep the mob at bay. 743 00:40:20,560 --> 00:40:25,960 And none was more fortress-like than the stunning Palazzo Farnese. 744 00:40:25,960 --> 00:40:28,360 Palazzo Farnese. What a palace, eh? 745 00:40:28,360 --> 00:40:31,640 It's got 40 windows just on the front. Amazing. 746 00:40:38,200 --> 00:40:41,400 The Farnese family was one of the great forces in Rome 747 00:40:41,400 --> 00:40:43,360 from the 15th to the 18th century. 748 00:40:45,120 --> 00:40:47,560 Many military commanders and cardinals, 749 00:40:47,560 --> 00:40:49,440 two popes and the Queen of Spain 750 00:40:49,440 --> 00:40:51,600 can be found in their family tree. 751 00:40:56,320 --> 00:40:58,320 And thanks to their huge riches, 752 00:40:58,320 --> 00:41:01,160 the family constructed the most magnificent 753 00:41:01,160 --> 00:41:03,840 high Renaissance dwelling in all of Rome, 754 00:41:03,840 --> 00:41:07,160 designed by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger, 755 00:41:07,160 --> 00:41:08,920 and a chap called Michelangelo. 756 00:41:12,800 --> 00:41:15,720 I'm taking Giorgio to see one particular room 757 00:41:15,720 --> 00:41:20,120 with a truly amazing series of frescoes by Annibale Carracci... 758 00:41:22,520 --> 00:41:27,120 ..the same artist Caravaggio had mocked with the rear end of a horse. 759 00:41:27,120 --> 00:41:29,760 Here, Carracci was on top form. 760 00:41:30,920 --> 00:41:33,480 Look at this, the sun has come to greet us. 761 00:41:33,480 --> 00:41:35,640 Now, don't look up, that's the only rule. 762 00:41:35,640 --> 00:41:38,040 OK. You can look at the garden. 763 00:41:38,040 --> 00:41:39,960 Wow. And we're right in the middle of the row. 764 00:41:39,960 --> 00:41:41,640 In the middle of the row. 765 00:41:41,640 --> 00:41:43,960 OK, now we're going to do it. 766 00:41:43,960 --> 00:41:45,840 OK? OK. 767 00:41:45,840 --> 00:41:49,320 Uno, due... 768 00:41:49,320 --> 00:41:50,760 Three. 769 00:41:54,920 --> 00:41:56,680 Wow! 770 00:41:57,960 --> 00:41:59,840 Look at that! Look at that. 771 00:42:09,400 --> 00:42:14,080 Started 1597, finished 1608. 772 00:42:14,080 --> 00:42:16,720 11 years in the making. 773 00:42:19,000 --> 00:42:21,800 And the theme of the whole thing... 774 00:42:24,480 --> 00:42:27,920 # ..the power of love 775 00:42:27,920 --> 00:42:30,320 # A force from above. # 776 00:42:32,160 --> 00:42:34,080 Really! That is the subject! 777 00:42:43,280 --> 00:42:45,640 You've got Diana falling in love, 778 00:42:45,640 --> 00:42:47,840 despite her vows of chastity, 779 00:42:47,840 --> 00:42:53,040 falling in love with the shepherd Endymion, sleeping muscle man. 780 00:42:54,240 --> 00:42:57,560 You've got the abduction of Galatea, 781 00:42:57,560 --> 00:43:02,200 you've got Jupiter and Juno. 782 00:43:02,200 --> 00:43:05,280 We've got Bacchus and Ariadne. 783 00:43:05,280 --> 00:43:11,080 And here he is, in his golden carriage drawn by tigers... 784 00:43:11,080 --> 00:43:14,200 ..with rams, symbols of sex and lust. 785 00:43:15,240 --> 00:43:16,640 It's almost too much, isn't it? 786 00:43:16,640 --> 00:43:20,240 It really, like, is incredible. 787 00:43:20,240 --> 00:43:25,280 The figure of the lady is so beautiful, rounded and beautiful. 788 00:43:25,280 --> 00:43:28,240 They're not the model of the modern supermodel, let's put it that way. 789 00:43:28,240 --> 00:43:30,080 That's for sure. They're not skin and bones. 790 00:43:30,080 --> 00:43:31,960 But they're much more beautiful. 791 00:43:31,960 --> 00:43:33,320 It's quite a thing. 792 00:43:33,320 --> 00:43:36,560 And it was all commissioned by a cardinal. 793 00:43:36,560 --> 00:43:37,880 Odoardo Farnese. 794 00:43:37,880 --> 00:43:42,160 Why would a cardinal have something like that in his house? 795 00:43:42,160 --> 00:43:45,440 Well, actually, in the Renaissance, they weren't prudish. 796 00:43:45,440 --> 00:43:50,360 There was a tradition of noble families commissioning, 797 00:43:50,360 --> 00:43:52,880 usually on the occasion of a marriage, 798 00:43:52,880 --> 00:43:56,480 quite sexy, secular images. 799 00:43:56,480 --> 00:43:59,200 Almost like encouragements to procreation. 800 00:43:59,200 --> 00:44:02,080 This is a message from the cardinal to all of his children. 801 00:44:02,080 --> 00:44:04,320 Right. "This is how you do it, just get on with it." 802 00:44:05,800 --> 00:44:09,800 Isn't it? It sounds a little bit like that, doesn't it? 803 00:44:09,800 --> 00:44:13,720 Yes, I don't know what that is in Latin, but... 804 00:44:13,720 --> 00:44:19,240 I think what the room as a whole is saying is, "That for us as a dynasty 805 00:44:19,240 --> 00:44:21,880 "to uphold our power, we must breed." 806 00:44:24,760 --> 00:44:27,360 And something really neat, look at this. 807 00:44:27,360 --> 00:44:29,040 This is thanks to the French, actually, 808 00:44:29,040 --> 00:44:31,200 who've had this as their embassy for so long, 809 00:44:31,200 --> 00:44:32,680 they cleaned this room, 810 00:44:32,680 --> 00:44:34,240 and look what they found. 811 00:44:34,240 --> 00:44:37,080 Carracci had actually left some of his sketches. 812 00:44:37,080 --> 00:44:39,280 So when he was making the ceiling, 813 00:44:39,280 --> 00:44:41,760 he was actually doing these little sketches. 814 00:44:41,760 --> 00:44:44,760 There's actually quite a sad postscript 815 00:44:44,760 --> 00:44:47,880 to the story of this amazing masterpiece. 816 00:44:47,880 --> 00:44:49,840 They cardinal, for whatever reason... 817 00:44:51,120 --> 00:44:52,920 ..was a really mean guy, 818 00:44:52,920 --> 00:44:55,920 so when Carracci finished and finally asked for his payment... 819 00:44:57,600 --> 00:45:00,840 ..the cardinal got his accountant to do all the sums, 820 00:45:00,840 --> 00:45:04,600 and he said, "Well, "you've been living in the Palace for 11 years, 821 00:45:04,600 --> 00:45:07,920 "so we're going to charge you for the board and lodging. 822 00:45:07,920 --> 00:45:11,080 "So, we're going to pay you £100,000 for doing the picture, 823 00:45:11,080 --> 00:45:14,520 "but we're going to deduct £99,500 824 00:45:14,520 --> 00:45:17,120 "because you've been staying in the Palace." No way. 825 00:45:17,120 --> 00:45:22,040 Really. They paid him 500 scudi for 11 years' work. 826 00:45:22,040 --> 00:45:26,320 Carracci was so upset, he just falls into this terrible depression, 827 00:45:26,320 --> 00:45:28,840 and then that's the end of him. 828 00:45:28,840 --> 00:45:31,240 He dies, basically, of a broken heart... 829 00:45:31,240 --> 00:45:35,440 ..for not being paid. Maybe you should have been his agent, Giorgio. 830 00:45:35,440 --> 00:45:37,400 I could have definitely been his chef. 831 00:45:38,760 --> 00:45:40,960 The paintings would have been even better! 832 00:45:44,600 --> 00:45:47,560 Eventually, you could say, justice was served. 833 00:45:47,560 --> 00:45:50,160 The family extinguished in 1731 834 00:45:50,160 --> 00:45:52,760 when the last duke, Antonio Farnese, 835 00:45:52,760 --> 00:45:55,600 died without direct heirs. 836 00:45:55,600 --> 00:45:59,280 The Palace has been the French embassy for the last 81 years, 837 00:45:59,280 --> 00:46:02,400 keeping Carracci's masterpiece a bit of a secret. 838 00:46:02,400 --> 00:46:05,040 But now the doors are open once a week, 839 00:46:05,040 --> 00:46:08,080 and he is gradually being rediscovered. 840 00:46:08,080 --> 00:46:12,440 We really have to have some lunch now, so after the power of love, 841 00:46:12,440 --> 00:46:15,880 I want to remind Andrew of the power of pasta. 842 00:46:15,880 --> 00:46:18,600 This is one of the classics. 843 00:46:18,600 --> 00:46:21,240 You're going to learn how to make a carbonara. 844 00:46:21,240 --> 00:46:22,640 A real carbonara, Andrew. 845 00:46:23,640 --> 00:46:25,160 We are heading to Roscioli, 846 00:46:25,160 --> 00:46:27,960 a small restaurant that's been in the same family 847 00:46:27,960 --> 00:46:29,360 for four generations. 848 00:46:30,760 --> 00:46:33,800 Nabil, the cook, is waiting for us. 849 00:46:33,800 --> 00:46:35,840 This is Nabil. Salve, Nabil. 850 00:46:35,840 --> 00:46:39,000 Nabil cooks the best carbonara in the world, 851 00:46:39,000 --> 00:46:40,520 I'm telling you. 852 00:46:40,520 --> 00:46:43,840 So, what makes the Roman carbonara different 853 00:46:43,840 --> 00:46:47,320 from the one that we might eat in a restaurant in London? 854 00:46:48,680 --> 00:46:50,400 That. 855 00:46:50,400 --> 00:46:53,600 GIORGIO AND NABIL DISCUSS INGREDIENTS IN ITALIAN 856 00:46:53,600 --> 00:46:55,640 You don't use any belly, 857 00:46:55,640 --> 00:46:57,200 you use the cheek, 858 00:46:57,200 --> 00:46:58,960 the end of the cheek and the neck. 859 00:46:58,960 --> 00:47:01,720 And when you give a recipe with bacon, you make a big mistake, 860 00:47:01,720 --> 00:47:03,360 because the consistency of this 861 00:47:03,360 --> 00:47:05,600 when it's cooked is a completely different one 862 00:47:05,600 --> 00:47:06,840 than the bacon would be. 863 00:47:06,840 --> 00:47:10,600 So, rule number one, never cook a carbonara with bacon. 864 00:47:10,600 --> 00:47:12,880 I think a lot of people would be quite surprised by that. 865 00:47:12,880 --> 00:47:15,720 Rule number one. No bacon, no pancetta. 866 00:47:15,720 --> 00:47:18,040 The spaghetti are the main ingredient, obviously. 867 00:47:18,040 --> 00:47:21,080 They've been dried, you know, like that. 868 00:47:21,080 --> 00:47:22,920 So they are just going to cross. 869 00:47:22,920 --> 00:47:24,680 But touch the spaghetti. 870 00:47:24,680 --> 00:47:26,920 They're rough. Can you feel the roughness of that? 871 00:47:26,920 --> 00:47:28,480 Oh, yeah, yeah. 872 00:47:28,480 --> 00:47:30,160 Trafilatura al bronzo. 873 00:47:30,160 --> 00:47:33,640 That means the sauce, which is kind of, like the eggs, 874 00:47:33,640 --> 00:47:37,040 is cooked and kind of a bit creamy, it will stick to it. 875 00:47:39,960 --> 00:47:41,680 A really hot pan. 876 00:47:41,680 --> 00:47:45,000 No oil, nothing. 877 00:47:45,000 --> 00:47:46,480 Just the guanciale in it. 878 00:47:46,480 --> 00:47:51,800 You see, it is screaming already. Yeah. 879 00:47:51,800 --> 00:47:55,400 OK, very crispy on the outside and really tender inside, 880 00:47:55,400 --> 00:47:58,920 and when you bite into that, you have an explosion, 881 00:47:58,920 --> 00:48:01,160 an explosion of flavour in your mouth. 882 00:48:03,880 --> 00:48:05,240 Alora. 883 00:48:05,240 --> 00:48:09,480 Turning the spaghetti, very important, don't let them lie down. 884 00:48:09,480 --> 00:48:12,880 Yes. He is going to prepare the eggs now. 885 00:48:12,880 --> 00:48:14,360 OK, the base. 886 00:48:19,080 --> 00:48:21,920 One egg yolk, and then a little bit of egg white, 887 00:48:21,920 --> 00:48:25,120 because it becomes more foamy if he does that. 888 00:48:25,120 --> 00:48:26,440 Beautiful eggs as well. 889 00:48:28,440 --> 00:48:30,920 Parmesan and Pecorino mixed together. 890 00:48:32,040 --> 00:48:34,320 Two nice pinch, pepper. 891 00:48:35,560 --> 00:48:37,040 They love pepper in Rome. 892 00:48:37,040 --> 00:48:39,120 Very important. Toasted Sarawak pepper. 893 00:48:39,120 --> 00:48:40,160 That is so important. 894 00:48:41,680 --> 00:48:43,080 That is the base. 895 00:48:44,280 --> 00:48:47,160 OK? So no garlic, no bacon? 896 00:48:47,160 --> 00:48:49,160 No! Are you crazy? 897 00:48:49,160 --> 00:48:50,920 Don't start to do the American way. 898 00:48:50,920 --> 00:48:52,960 Do not think about putting too many things in it. 899 00:48:52,960 --> 00:48:57,040 It is very essential, it is very clean, it is very neat. 900 00:48:58,840 --> 00:49:00,560 He judges the pasta just with the eye? 901 00:49:00,560 --> 00:49:01,760 Just by looking at it. 902 00:49:01,760 --> 00:49:03,200 He just looks at the pasta, 903 00:49:03,200 --> 00:49:05,440 he doesn't need a timer or anything like that. 904 00:49:06,880 --> 00:49:08,280 Look what he's doing now. 905 00:49:08,280 --> 00:49:09,880 OK. 906 00:49:09,880 --> 00:49:13,040 A little bit of the guanciale in. 907 00:49:15,000 --> 00:49:16,760 A little bit of the fat. 908 00:49:16,760 --> 00:49:18,240 Yeah. 909 00:49:18,240 --> 00:49:19,600 A little bit of that. 910 00:49:23,160 --> 00:49:25,960 Water and the fat that is going to make it creamy. 911 00:49:25,960 --> 00:49:28,200 Rule three. No cream! 912 00:49:28,200 --> 00:49:32,840 No cream. And as the spaghetti goes in, a little bit wet, you see? 913 00:49:32,840 --> 00:49:35,080 He left them a little bit wet. 914 00:49:35,080 --> 00:49:36,200 Yeah. 915 00:49:38,360 --> 00:49:39,840 This is vital, you see? 916 00:49:39,840 --> 00:49:42,600 The cooking water, which already got salt. 917 00:49:42,600 --> 00:49:44,720 Do you notice we have not seasoned anything? 918 00:49:44,720 --> 00:49:46,640 Look, look what he's doing. 919 00:49:46,640 --> 00:49:49,520 So he knows now by touching the edge, 920 00:49:49,520 --> 00:49:52,760 he knows now the eggs is creamy and is cooked. 921 00:49:55,680 --> 00:50:00,960 Beautiful. A bit of cheese around and a little bit of pepper on top. 922 00:50:00,960 --> 00:50:03,120 Wow. Wow. That looks... 923 00:50:06,040 --> 00:50:08,000 Carbonara di Roscioli. Grazie. 924 00:50:15,400 --> 00:50:19,040 Wow, that looks... 925 00:50:25,680 --> 00:50:27,280 I am not leaving this here. 926 00:50:27,280 --> 00:50:29,200 He is not going to let me have any. 927 00:50:29,200 --> 00:50:32,880 You must try to convey to everybody the flavour here, 928 00:50:32,880 --> 00:50:34,840 that really hint of pepper, 929 00:50:34,840 --> 00:50:37,800 the cheese and the creaminess of the eggs, 930 00:50:37,800 --> 00:50:42,000 almost like a fluid mayonnaise or a Bearnaise or a Hollandaise... 931 00:50:42,000 --> 00:50:44,360 That's what you are trying to do. 932 00:50:44,360 --> 00:50:47,320 And then this absolute explosion of 933 00:50:47,320 --> 00:50:49,800 almost like a farmyard taste, 934 00:50:49,800 --> 00:50:52,800 that explosion of the guanciale. 935 00:50:52,800 --> 00:50:53,880 Unbelievable. 936 00:50:53,880 --> 00:50:55,440 Buonissimo. 937 00:50:55,440 --> 00:50:58,360 Grazie. Grazie. 938 00:50:59,600 --> 00:51:02,280 This was a masterclass on carbonara. 939 00:51:02,280 --> 00:51:04,200 It was just! 940 00:51:04,200 --> 00:51:05,840 Thank you. 941 00:51:15,640 --> 00:51:16,840 You know, Giorgio, 942 00:51:16,840 --> 00:51:18,880 if you give me one more plate of pasta, 943 00:51:18,880 --> 00:51:21,120 we are going to have to buy a bigger motorbike. 944 00:51:28,240 --> 00:51:30,720 We are going to finish our journey in modern Rome, 945 00:51:30,720 --> 00:51:32,480 the Rome of the 20th century. 946 00:51:35,120 --> 00:51:38,160 The most famous Italian dictator in living memory 947 00:51:38,160 --> 00:51:39,600 was Benito Mussolini... 948 00:51:41,240 --> 00:51:44,480 ..a man whose granite jaw and megaphone rhetoric 949 00:51:44,480 --> 00:51:47,240 was only matched by his severe architecture. 950 00:51:49,480 --> 00:51:52,240 You can still see his buildings all over Rome, 951 00:51:52,240 --> 00:51:54,840 buildings that shouted at the Italian people, 952 00:51:54,840 --> 00:51:56,520 telling them to work harder, 953 00:51:56,520 --> 00:51:57,840 to be on time, 954 00:51:57,840 --> 00:52:00,920 to leave the past behind and go to war. 955 00:52:05,600 --> 00:52:09,720 But in this great city of the people, Mussolini had his opponents, 956 00:52:09,720 --> 00:52:11,880 even if their voices weren't always heard. 957 00:52:13,400 --> 00:52:15,760 For proof of that, I am taking Giorgio to 958 00:52:15,760 --> 00:52:17,720 the Gallery of Modern Art where 959 00:52:17,720 --> 00:52:21,720 they have some of my favourite works of art from the dark, fascist years. 960 00:52:35,000 --> 00:52:38,520 Here, we can still see another side of Rome, 961 00:52:38,520 --> 00:52:43,240 the one that never submitted to fascism and Mussolini. 962 00:52:47,960 --> 00:52:49,880 Look at this figure - 963 00:52:49,880 --> 00:52:54,080 Attilio Torresini's sculpture called Riposo, At Rest, 964 00:52:54,080 --> 00:52:57,720 but she looks almost as if she might be eavesdropping on us. 965 00:52:57,720 --> 00:52:59,680 She looks so... 966 00:52:59,680 --> 00:53:03,560 ..beautiful and so unsexualised, but beautiful. 967 00:53:04,880 --> 00:53:07,240 And something slightly sad about her, I think. 968 00:53:07,240 --> 00:53:09,480 I think there's an air of melancholy. 969 00:53:09,480 --> 00:53:11,200 You think it is melancholic? 970 00:53:11,200 --> 00:53:12,600 Maybe I am reading that in. 971 00:53:12,600 --> 00:53:16,160 I mean, I know that the sculpture was made in 1939. 972 00:53:16,160 --> 00:53:17,920 So I just have this feeling that 973 00:53:17,920 --> 00:53:21,320 maybe there's the intimations of war, there is some sense of... 974 00:53:21,320 --> 00:53:23,240 That is a beautiful Italian girl. 975 00:53:23,240 --> 00:53:25,040 ..trouble ahead. 976 00:53:25,040 --> 00:53:27,000 Well, if we're talking melancholy, 977 00:53:27,000 --> 00:53:29,440 vieni con me cos one of 978 00:53:29,440 --> 00:53:33,520 the masterpieces of Italian melancholy is in the next room. 979 00:53:39,480 --> 00:53:41,840 This is what has been arranged for us, 980 00:53:41,840 --> 00:53:47,320 a private screening of the masterpiece of Massimo Campigli 981 00:53:47,320 --> 00:53:49,040 and it's just a wonderful... 982 00:53:49,040 --> 00:53:51,240 So we can sit down? We can sit down. 983 00:53:51,240 --> 00:53:53,160 The film has started already. 984 00:53:53,160 --> 00:53:56,920 It is called The Fishermen's Wives. 985 00:53:56,920 --> 00:53:58,360 It is an oil painting, 986 00:53:58,360 --> 00:54:00,160 but it is a bit like a fresco. 987 00:54:00,160 --> 00:54:01,800 The forms are very simple, 988 00:54:01,800 --> 00:54:04,800 they are very solemn, they are very monumental. 989 00:54:04,800 --> 00:54:07,960 There is something of the solemnity of a religious painting. 990 00:54:07,960 --> 00:54:10,240 These women are waiting. 991 00:54:10,240 --> 00:54:12,000 You see, there they are on the left, 992 00:54:12,000 --> 00:54:14,000 they are just holding each other. 993 00:54:17,320 --> 00:54:19,920 The picture was painted in 1935, 994 00:54:19,920 --> 00:54:22,920 so, again, fascism was at its height. 995 00:54:22,920 --> 00:54:26,800 What could be less fascist than this? 996 00:54:28,760 --> 00:54:33,880 Beautiful picture. So the sorrow of the person who loses their husband, 997 00:54:33,880 --> 00:54:38,200 it is almost like saying, "Don't allow your kids to go to war. 998 00:54:38,200 --> 00:54:39,600 "They never come back." 999 00:54:39,600 --> 00:54:41,400 I think this is why this is a painting 1000 00:54:41,400 --> 00:54:44,920 that once you start looking at it, it does catch in your throat. 1001 00:54:44,920 --> 00:54:48,600 And I think, I mean, are those the colours of Italy in the middle? 1002 00:54:48,600 --> 00:54:51,040 Are those the colours of...? Well, there is a bit of green, 1003 00:54:51,040 --> 00:54:53,600 there is some red, there is some white. 1004 00:54:53,600 --> 00:54:56,880 He enlisted, in the First World War in 1916, 1005 00:54:56,880 --> 00:54:59,760 but then during the war and immediately after the war, 1006 00:54:59,760 --> 00:55:02,080 he was so horrified by all of that 1007 00:55:02,080 --> 00:55:04,560 he said, "I am now forever going to be a pacifist." 1008 00:55:04,560 --> 00:55:07,520 But I think it is important to look at these artists 1009 00:55:07,520 --> 00:55:09,520 because, as so often in history, 1010 00:55:09,520 --> 00:55:11,800 the people who make the most noise, 1011 00:55:11,800 --> 00:55:15,000 and the future is with Marinetti as their spokesman banging his drum, 1012 00:55:15,000 --> 00:55:17,240 and Mussolini with his megaphone, 1013 00:55:17,240 --> 00:55:19,200 everybody knows about them, 1014 00:55:19,200 --> 00:55:21,480 but nobody knows about these artists. 1015 00:55:21,480 --> 00:55:23,000 It is a much quieter voice, 1016 00:55:23,000 --> 00:55:24,880 but it is the voice of conscience. 1017 00:55:24,880 --> 00:55:26,720 I think it is a truthful voice. 1018 00:55:26,720 --> 00:55:28,280 You know, it makes me think, 1019 00:55:28,280 --> 00:55:30,920 what could have been if there was more people like him? 1020 00:55:30,920 --> 00:55:33,760 It would have never happened, that Second World War, 1021 00:55:33,760 --> 00:55:36,480 they would have never did what they did to each other. 1022 00:55:36,480 --> 00:55:37,760 It was just terrible. 1023 00:55:37,760 --> 00:55:39,800 And these guys were absolutely right. 1024 00:55:43,880 --> 00:55:45,160 Maybe in the end, 1025 00:55:45,160 --> 00:55:46,600 that is what artists are for. 1026 00:55:46,600 --> 00:55:50,560 To make... To see what we don't see. 1027 00:55:50,560 --> 00:55:51,760 Si. 1028 00:55:59,840 --> 00:56:01,800 We are at the end of our journey 1029 00:56:01,800 --> 00:56:04,600 through a city that is defined by its people. 1030 00:56:04,600 --> 00:56:08,360 So where better to finish than with a work of public art? 1031 00:56:08,360 --> 00:56:11,040 Proclaiming the eternal might of Rome 1032 00:56:11,040 --> 00:56:14,200 on the wall of a modern building. 1033 00:56:14,200 --> 00:56:17,760 Look what they have put on the side of the apartment block, 1034 00:56:17,760 --> 00:56:23,240 this huge, fantastic, I think, mural of a wolf, the symbol of Rome. 1035 00:56:23,240 --> 00:56:25,440 It is unbelievable. 1036 00:56:25,440 --> 00:56:27,240 It is so real, isn't it? 1037 00:56:27,240 --> 00:56:29,480 You can almost hear it snarling. 1038 00:56:29,480 --> 00:56:33,600 I love the hairs and I love it when the evening sun catches it, 1039 00:56:33,600 --> 00:56:38,520 the wolf is there and this ordinary building suddenly becomes, wow! 1040 00:56:38,520 --> 00:56:44,080 What things did you like the best of the things that we saw on this trip? 1041 00:56:44,080 --> 00:56:45,520 The Caravaggio? 1042 00:56:45,520 --> 00:56:49,000 Well, those ones were unforgettable, man. 1043 00:56:49,000 --> 00:56:52,840 And that St Paul... 1044 00:56:52,840 --> 00:56:54,440 ..and the story of the asses, 1045 00:56:54,440 --> 00:56:58,480 everybody showed their ass to each other, that was fantastic. 1046 00:56:58,480 --> 00:57:01,680 Another popular thing that I really liked about was the Garbatella. 1047 00:57:01,680 --> 00:57:03,840 Oh! That was so beautiful. 1048 00:57:03,840 --> 00:57:10,280 I remember also, the crunch of the guanciale in the carbonara, 1049 00:57:10,280 --> 00:57:12,200 the perfect carbonara. 1050 00:57:12,200 --> 00:57:14,640 If you were going to feed that wolf anything, 1051 00:57:14,640 --> 00:57:17,800 you would give him a really big piece of that guanciale. 1052 00:57:19,120 --> 00:57:21,240 This is the wolf of the people, 1053 00:57:21,240 --> 00:57:24,800 aggressive and opinionated 1054 00:57:24,800 --> 00:57:27,560 and Roman to the core. 1055 00:57:27,560 --> 00:57:29,120 I like that kind of Rome, 1056 00:57:29,120 --> 00:57:31,840 I like Rome that stays alive through the people. 1057 00:57:31,840 --> 00:57:33,880 And, you know, the Pope comes and change, 1058 00:57:33,880 --> 00:57:36,760 and the President comes and change, the King comes and change, 1059 00:57:36,760 --> 00:57:39,120 but the people of Rome, are still the people of Rome. 1060 00:57:40,520 --> 00:57:42,520 They are the one who rules. 1061 00:57:42,520 --> 00:57:44,440 They really are. You remember that one? 1062 00:57:44,440 --> 00:57:46,120 SPQR. 1063 00:57:46,120 --> 00:57:49,960 Senatus Populusque Romanus. 1064 00:57:52,120 --> 00:57:53,760 I think it is dinner time. 1065 00:57:53,760 --> 00:57:56,480 And you know, in Rome, dinner is always quite good, isn't it? 1066 00:57:56,480 --> 00:57:57,840 Not bad. Not bad. 1067 00:58:00,720 --> 00:58:04,640 Next time, we uncover more of the hidden Rome. 1068 00:58:04,640 --> 00:58:07,400 If you look in the middle, staring out at us, 1069 00:58:07,400 --> 00:58:09,960 a painting of the first century AD, 1070 00:58:09,960 --> 00:58:11,920 and there are not many of those. 1071 00:58:11,920 --> 00:58:14,200 So this is a kidney sandwich. 1072 00:58:14,200 --> 00:58:17,440 We try centuries-old traditions. 1073 00:58:17,440 --> 00:58:21,200 Oh, mamma mia. We tasted Roman-ity. 1074 00:58:22,960 --> 00:58:26,920 And we pay a visit to one of Rome's greatest art collections. 1075 00:58:26,920 --> 00:58:30,600 Not a bad room to have a party in. 1076 00:59:03,800 --> 00:59:06,960 Hi, I'm Andrew Graham-Dixon and I'm an art historian. 1077 00:59:08,040 --> 00:59:10,480 These ancient roads are slightly bumpy. 1078 00:59:10,480 --> 00:59:12,560 Calma, calma. 1079 00:59:12,560 --> 00:59:15,440 And I'm Giorgio Locatelli, and I'm a cook. 1080 00:59:16,520 --> 00:59:20,920 We've been all over Italy revealing gastronomic and artistic treasures. 1081 00:59:22,400 --> 00:59:25,920 But now we've come to its beating heart - Rome. 1082 00:59:29,480 --> 00:59:34,400 It's a 2,000-year-old metropolis where past and present collide. 1083 00:59:34,400 --> 00:59:37,200 It's as unique for an art lover... 1084 00:59:37,200 --> 00:59:39,040 Staring out at us. 1085 00:59:39,040 --> 00:59:43,360 A painting of the first century AD, and there are not many of those. 1086 00:59:43,360 --> 00:59:45,680 As it is for a food lover... 1087 00:59:45,680 --> 00:59:49,000 Cuisine that has its backbone on necessity, 1088 00:59:49,000 --> 00:59:51,200 that's the cuisine that survives! 1089 00:59:51,200 --> 00:59:55,680 We will taste traditional recipes beloved by the Romans. 1090 00:59:55,680 --> 00:59:57,720 Oh, mamma mia! 1091 00:59:57,720 --> 00:59:59,560 How good is that? 1092 00:59:59,560 --> 01:00:03,520 And we'll plunge our forks into the cultures that have shaped the city. 1093 01:00:03,520 --> 01:00:09,640 The whole world is cowering in awe of this symbol of papal power. 1094 01:00:09,640 --> 01:00:11,000 HORN TOOTS 1095 01:00:11,000 --> 01:00:15,440 We'll explore Rome's greatest works of art and architecture. 1096 01:00:15,440 --> 01:00:18,080 Not a bad room to have a party in. 1097 01:00:18,080 --> 01:00:19,520 Full of light... 1098 01:00:21,520 --> 01:00:24,400 ..but also, sometimes, darkness. 1099 01:00:24,400 --> 01:00:25,720 Unbelievable. 1100 01:00:25,720 --> 01:00:28,640 I actually can hear him screaming. 1101 01:00:42,560 --> 01:00:44,040 HORN TOOTS 1102 01:00:46,200 --> 01:00:48,720 Sorry, scusa! 1103 01:00:53,240 --> 01:00:55,360 HORN BLARES Calma, calma. 1104 01:00:56,920 --> 01:00:59,480 GIORGIO CHUCKLES 1105 01:00:59,480 --> 01:01:02,600 Rome is like a giant time machine, 1106 01:01:02,600 --> 01:01:07,240 where treasures from over 2,000 years of history have been preserved 1107 01:01:07,240 --> 01:01:09,600 in the many layers of the city. 1108 01:01:09,600 --> 01:01:11,520 Ah, look! Look at this! 1109 01:01:11,520 --> 01:01:13,440 Look at this, what I got for you, Andrew. 1110 01:01:14,520 --> 01:01:19,000 Wow! Never fail to be amazed by that. Never fails. 1111 01:01:20,680 --> 01:01:24,120 Every great work of art in Rome, every great recipe, 1112 01:01:24,120 --> 01:01:27,040 has deep roots in the past. 1113 01:01:27,040 --> 01:01:30,040 That's why, to appreciate the richness of this city, 1114 01:01:30,040 --> 01:01:32,760 you have to dig beneath its surface, 1115 01:01:32,760 --> 01:01:35,480 to play the part of the archaeologist. 1116 01:01:35,480 --> 01:01:38,320 All these Roman walls are enormous on the left, aren't they? 1117 01:01:38,320 --> 01:01:39,600 Unbelievable, no? 1118 01:01:40,760 --> 01:01:44,000 And there isn't a better place to start our journey through 1119 01:01:44,000 --> 01:01:46,120 the many layers of Rome's history than here. 1120 01:01:47,440 --> 01:01:50,400 Just a couple of hundred yards from the Colosseum. 1121 01:01:51,920 --> 01:01:53,120 OK, Andrew. 1122 01:01:54,360 --> 01:01:55,800 So, here we are. 1123 01:01:56,800 --> 01:01:59,320 I love this place. The Church of San Clemente. 1124 01:02:00,920 --> 01:02:05,560 Here in Rome, we really are surrounded by history, 1125 01:02:05,560 --> 01:02:07,200 2,000 years of it. 1126 01:02:07,200 --> 01:02:09,000 It's become a cliche to say that, 1127 01:02:09,000 --> 01:02:12,400 but what I really love about the city is the different textures 1128 01:02:12,400 --> 01:02:13,920 of history that you get here. 1129 01:02:13,920 --> 01:02:17,400 And that's why I think this is a great first stop, San Clemente. 1130 01:02:17,400 --> 01:02:21,000 It's a Christian church erected in the Middle Ages on 1131 01:02:21,000 --> 01:02:23,800 the ruins of Roman pagan antiquity. 1132 01:02:23,800 --> 01:02:25,640 It's like a vertical time machine. 1133 01:02:25,640 --> 01:02:27,880 You can travel down, down, down, down, down, 1134 01:02:27,880 --> 01:02:31,760 and right at the bottom there's this fantastic unexpected human story, 1135 01:02:31,760 --> 01:02:33,960 but I'm not going to tell you what it is. 1136 01:02:33,960 --> 01:02:35,720 Let's go and have a look, then. Andiamo. 1137 01:02:40,680 --> 01:02:41,880 Wow. 1138 01:02:41,880 --> 01:02:45,640 This is just one of the most beautiful churches in Rome. 1139 01:02:45,640 --> 01:02:51,440 Look at this beautiful apse mosaic of Christ on the cross 1140 01:02:51,440 --> 01:02:53,200 representing the tree of life. 1141 01:02:53,200 --> 01:02:55,360 Beneath, you have Mary and John. 1142 01:02:55,360 --> 01:02:57,400 Look at the delicacy of his loincloth, 1143 01:02:57,400 --> 01:03:00,920 that gold structure in mosaic. 1144 01:03:00,920 --> 01:03:04,600 The leaf looks like they are artichoke leaves. They maybe are. 1145 01:03:04,600 --> 01:03:06,240 That could be a Roman touch. 1146 01:03:09,240 --> 01:03:12,640 Incredibly beautiful. So that, I may say, is probably 1147 01:03:12,640 --> 01:03:14,920 50 or 60 years' work. 1148 01:03:14,920 --> 01:03:16,760 This is a very important church, 1149 01:03:16,760 --> 01:03:20,000 because interred here were the remains of Pope Clement. 1150 01:03:20,000 --> 01:03:23,360 Yeah. I think he's the third Pope after Peter. Yes. 1151 01:03:23,360 --> 01:03:27,160 So it's filled with Christian significance. 1152 01:03:27,160 --> 01:03:30,400 But it's also, once you get your eye in and you look around, 1153 01:03:30,400 --> 01:03:33,680 it's a spectacular demonstration of the way in which buildings in Rome 1154 01:03:33,680 --> 01:03:35,520 have evolved over centuries of history. 1155 01:03:35,520 --> 01:03:40,400 So, it's such a mishmash. You've got these ancient Roman columns. 1156 01:03:40,400 --> 01:03:42,040 They don't match each other, 1157 01:03:42,040 --> 01:03:45,840 they obviously just used what they could find to make that basilica. 1158 01:03:45,840 --> 01:03:48,680 Of course, they're all different! They're all different. 1159 01:03:48,680 --> 01:03:52,040 And then all of this rectangle of stone, 1160 01:03:52,040 --> 01:03:54,760 this amazing marble choir gallery, 1161 01:03:54,760 --> 01:03:58,400 was actually made in 536. 1162 01:03:58,400 --> 01:04:00,760 Wow... Sixth century. 1163 01:04:00,760 --> 01:04:03,640 Like, 600 years before the church. 1164 01:04:03,640 --> 01:04:05,360 Exactly. 1165 01:04:05,360 --> 01:04:09,440 Over there you've got something that takes us back to the early 1166 01:04:09,440 --> 01:04:12,800 15th century, some early Renaissance frescos by Masolino. 1167 01:04:12,800 --> 01:04:16,520 Over there you've got a beautiful Renaissance tomb memorial 1168 01:04:16,520 --> 01:04:19,000 to one of the Popes. OK. 1169 01:04:19,000 --> 01:04:24,240 And then, above, you've got this extraordinary Baroque ceiling, 1170 01:04:24,240 --> 01:04:27,120 you know, from the 17th-18th century. 1171 01:04:27,120 --> 01:04:29,720 So, you've got all these different levels of history 1172 01:04:29,720 --> 01:04:32,360 just in this one building. Yes, yeah. 1173 01:04:32,360 --> 01:04:35,280 But I'm going to have to take you actually downstairs 1174 01:04:35,280 --> 01:04:38,680 because we can explore what lies beneath here. Beneath. 1175 01:04:38,680 --> 01:04:42,920 We are going down into the distant past! 1176 01:04:44,080 --> 01:04:47,480 All of the Rome we see today is built on top of the other 1177 01:04:47,480 --> 01:04:49,320 much older Romes. 1178 01:04:49,320 --> 01:04:51,040 Wow, it's incredible! 1179 01:04:52,120 --> 01:04:56,800 In 1857, the prior of San Clemente, Friar Joseph Mullooly, 1180 01:04:56,800 --> 01:05:01,040 uncovered the remains of a Christian church beneath the existing one, 1181 01:05:01,040 --> 01:05:03,800 dating back all the way to the fourth century. 1182 01:05:04,880 --> 01:05:09,400 Very little survives of the original church, just a few frescos. 1183 01:05:09,400 --> 01:05:13,880 Frescos depicting New Testament scenes and the life of San Clemente. 1184 01:05:13,880 --> 01:05:18,040 But there's yet another lower layer that takes you back to a Rome 1185 01:05:18,040 --> 01:05:21,040 400 years older even than that. 1186 01:05:22,160 --> 01:05:25,160 We're going down into ancient Rome itself. 1187 01:05:25,160 --> 01:05:27,680 You have to imagine it's the time of Nero. 1188 01:05:27,680 --> 01:05:29,960 Nero's fiddled, Rome's burned. 1189 01:05:29,960 --> 01:05:33,600 They've rebuilt vast areas of the city, including all these houses. 1190 01:05:33,600 --> 01:05:36,480 There's a rabbit warren of streets down here. 1191 01:05:37,680 --> 01:05:41,920 Archaeologists believe all this dates from roughly 70 AD, 1192 01:05:41,920 --> 01:05:44,080 just after Nero's death. 1193 01:05:44,080 --> 01:05:47,320 And in the basement of this house, look what we have. 1194 01:05:48,440 --> 01:05:49,840 Look what we have. Wow! 1195 01:05:52,400 --> 01:05:54,440 A subterranean chamber. 1196 01:05:55,960 --> 01:05:58,480 This is the cult of Mithras. 1197 01:05:58,480 --> 01:06:03,680 For a while, Mithraic cult was so strong and so powerful that it was 1198 01:06:03,680 --> 01:06:05,000 a rival to Christianity. 1199 01:06:05,000 --> 01:06:07,440 It had some of the same features as Christianity. 1200 01:06:07,440 --> 01:06:10,800 It had ceremonies involving wine and blood, 1201 01:06:10,800 --> 01:06:15,360 it had a central myth in which good triumphs over evil. 1202 01:06:15,360 --> 01:06:18,000 A man kills a bull. 1203 01:06:18,000 --> 01:06:20,040 Look at that agonised neck of the bull. 1204 01:06:21,120 --> 01:06:23,960 Come with me. This is a part that they've... 1205 01:06:23,960 --> 01:06:26,520 This is never open to the public, this part, 1206 01:06:26,520 --> 01:06:27,920 but they've let us go in. 1207 01:06:29,400 --> 01:06:33,440 They think that this was a schoolroom that was also part 1208 01:06:33,440 --> 01:06:35,320 of the Mithraic cult. 1209 01:06:35,320 --> 01:06:39,200 And if you bring your torch over here, if you look in the middle... 1210 01:06:40,560 --> 01:06:45,200 ..they think that that might be the schoolteacher staring out at us. 1211 01:06:46,680 --> 01:06:51,600 A painting of the first century AD, and there are not many of those. 1212 01:06:51,600 --> 01:06:54,760 This is, like, what, 2,100 years old? 1213 01:06:54,760 --> 01:06:56,320 If he were still alive, yeah, 1214 01:06:56,320 --> 01:06:59,120 he'd be celebrating his 2,000th birthday pretty soon. 1215 01:06:59,120 --> 01:07:01,960 How amazing is that? GIORGIO CHUCKLES 1216 01:07:01,960 --> 01:07:03,440 TRANSLATION: 1217 01:07:06,400 --> 01:07:08,800 See, I always know when you like something 1218 01:07:08,800 --> 01:07:10,920 cos you start speaking in Italian. 1219 01:07:10,920 --> 01:07:14,280 I love it when a work of art puts you face to face with someone 1220 01:07:14,280 --> 01:07:16,320 from another world. 1221 01:07:16,320 --> 01:07:18,920 And they only just found it. Wow! 1222 01:07:20,560 --> 01:07:22,800 I am completely... 1223 01:07:22,800 --> 01:07:27,800 Thank you, Andrew, this is such an incredible discovery, this place. 1224 01:07:27,800 --> 01:07:28,920 Isn't it? 1225 01:07:30,640 --> 01:07:32,280 I'm really glad you liked it. 1226 01:07:42,280 --> 01:07:46,360 OK, Andrew, I'm going to take you all along the Lungotevere! 1227 01:07:48,720 --> 01:07:50,840 See, now we're doing the Ponte Inglese. 1228 01:07:50,840 --> 01:07:53,800 They call it the Ponte Inglese because... 1229 01:07:53,800 --> 01:07:56,440 It's the only street in Rome where you drive on the left. 1230 01:07:56,440 --> 01:07:58,000 That's right. 1231 01:07:58,000 --> 01:08:01,880 I want to show Andrew a different type of archaeology. 1232 01:08:01,880 --> 01:08:04,040 The archaeology of food. 1233 01:08:04,040 --> 01:08:07,080 We are riding to the neighbourhood of Testaccio - 1234 01:08:07,080 --> 01:08:10,320 only 12 minutes away by scooter from San Clemente. 1235 01:08:12,040 --> 01:08:14,800 It's an area synonymous with food. 1236 01:08:14,800 --> 01:08:19,040 In ancient times, the district was home to the imperial port, 1237 01:08:19,040 --> 01:08:22,800 where the bulk of the Roman food supply was brought into the city. 1238 01:08:24,240 --> 01:08:25,840 It's a bit rough around the edges. 1239 01:08:27,160 --> 01:08:28,360 Where are you going to park? 1240 01:08:30,440 --> 01:08:35,520 In 1888, Testaccio was where the city authorities decided to build 1241 01:08:35,520 --> 01:08:38,360 Europe's largest municipal abattoir, 1242 01:08:38,360 --> 01:08:42,240 which would go on to shape Rome's culinary style. 1243 01:08:43,760 --> 01:08:45,800 So, where are we? 1244 01:08:45,800 --> 01:08:47,200 It's a slaughterhouse. 1245 01:08:47,200 --> 01:08:49,760 It's an enormous slaughterhouse. 1246 01:08:49,760 --> 01:08:53,400 It's a beautiful slaughterhouse. You can see there's all these pens. 1247 01:08:53,400 --> 01:08:57,040 The animals would be brought in from the countryside, then, you know, 1248 01:08:57,040 --> 01:08:59,560 when it was the time they will be slaughtered 1249 01:08:59,560 --> 01:09:03,440 and then taken in to feed the population. 1250 01:09:03,440 --> 01:09:07,120 Between 1870 and 1901, 1251 01:09:07,120 --> 01:09:10,680 Rome's population doubled from a quarter of a million 1252 01:09:10,680 --> 01:09:12,640 to half a million. 1253 01:09:12,640 --> 01:09:17,040 With so many new mouths to feed, they needed meat. 1254 01:09:17,040 --> 01:09:18,760 And more of it than ever. 1255 01:09:20,440 --> 01:09:22,760 But this is, this is amazing! Look at this. 1256 01:09:22,760 --> 01:09:24,680 But this is like a city of death. 1257 01:09:24,680 --> 01:09:26,880 It's even still got the signs. Yeah. 1258 01:09:26,880 --> 01:09:29,160 They didn't only kill cows, they killed everything. 1259 01:09:29,160 --> 01:09:30,840 You know, the chickens, everything. 1260 01:09:30,840 --> 01:09:34,360 Any kind of animal was slaughtered round here. 1261 01:09:34,360 --> 01:09:38,360 But look at the architecture of it, it's like a temple. 1262 01:09:38,360 --> 01:09:40,600 I love this marriage of styles. 1263 01:09:40,600 --> 01:09:45,280 A classical pediment on a 19th century industrial slaughterhouse 1264 01:09:45,280 --> 01:09:47,000 made of bricks and iron. 1265 01:09:47,000 --> 01:09:50,280 I just can't believe it, we're in the middle of Rome and this hasn't 1266 01:09:50,280 --> 01:09:53,760 been turned into apartment blocks or... So, what happens is... 1267 01:09:53,760 --> 01:09:58,800 ..yuppie living. The animal would be killed, the animal would be hanged, 1268 01:09:58,800 --> 01:10:00,560 and then they could move around. 1269 01:10:00,560 --> 01:10:02,200 Incredible. 1270 01:10:02,200 --> 01:10:05,200 In that space, I have to imagine, how many people? 1271 01:10:05,200 --> 01:10:09,080 It would be, like, 60-80 people all dirty of blood. 1272 01:10:09,080 --> 01:10:13,200 Here was kind of like a pulsating sort of part of the town, 1273 01:10:13,200 --> 01:10:15,000 because, you know, you know, 1274 01:10:15,000 --> 01:10:18,520 you can only have a really lively town if you feed them and you have 1275 01:10:18,520 --> 01:10:21,120 them healthy and they can work, and so-and-so. 1276 01:10:21,120 --> 01:10:27,040 So this was part of kind of, even if it was about death, it's about life. 1277 01:10:27,040 --> 01:10:29,880 It's amazing, this place. The energy in that room. 1278 01:10:29,880 --> 01:10:31,680 I mean, Charles Dickens would've 1279 01:10:31,680 --> 01:10:34,440 written a whole novel about this place. 1280 01:10:34,440 --> 01:10:38,240 It's like Rome delivers this piece of history. 1281 01:10:38,240 --> 01:10:41,560 It's not like the history of politics or a history of, like, 1282 01:10:41,560 --> 01:10:43,560 with a name attached to it or a movement. 1283 01:10:43,560 --> 01:10:46,600 No, it's just part of actual real history. 1284 01:10:48,640 --> 01:10:50,520 So, Giorgio, how did this 1285 01:10:50,520 --> 01:10:54,320 extraordinary place change the food of Rome? OK. 1286 01:10:54,320 --> 01:10:57,680 So you got to think about the new and extremely rich people 1287 01:10:57,680 --> 01:11:00,560 and powerful people that ran this beautiful house, 1288 01:11:00,560 --> 01:11:03,600 and they have, like, hundreds of people who serve and work in it. 1289 01:11:03,600 --> 01:11:06,080 So they would send the cooks down to the market. 1290 01:11:06,080 --> 01:11:08,920 The cooks would come down and buy a quarter of the animal. 1291 01:11:08,920 --> 01:11:11,600 So they walk away with the front quarter or the back quarter. 1292 01:11:11,600 --> 01:11:14,680 What was left in the place was all the other bits. 1293 01:11:14,680 --> 01:11:17,600 What they call the quinto quarto. What we call the offal in English. 1294 01:11:17,600 --> 01:11:20,800 Like the liver, the kidneys, the heart, and the feet and... 1295 01:11:20,800 --> 01:11:23,040 Yeah, the lips... 1296 01:11:23,040 --> 01:11:28,160 Really, the most, you know, horrible bits, you know, of the animal. 1297 01:11:28,160 --> 01:11:30,040 And some of the people didn't get paid. 1298 01:11:30,040 --> 01:11:34,000 You didn't get paid money, you got paid with those bits of animal. 1299 01:11:34,000 --> 01:11:37,240 So these guys are coming home with a bucket full of liver. Yeah. 1300 01:11:37,240 --> 01:11:38,560 Or a bucket full of tripe. 1301 01:11:38,560 --> 01:11:40,160 And they give it to the wife, 1302 01:11:40,160 --> 01:11:42,720 and the wife will just cook it and sell it. 1303 01:11:42,720 --> 01:11:45,440 And so that's how they will make their money. 1304 01:11:45,440 --> 01:11:49,600 Ah. So, this leads to a new kind of street food. 1305 01:11:49,600 --> 01:11:54,280 This great idea of the street market with the people who then consume 1306 01:11:54,280 --> 01:11:58,240 the food, it was like hundreds of years ago it was done in Rome. 1307 01:12:01,480 --> 01:12:04,640 The slaughterhouse closed down in 1975. 1308 01:12:04,640 --> 01:12:09,760 But across the road at Testaccio Market its legacy lives on. 1309 01:12:11,280 --> 01:12:13,160 From the age of 14, 1310 01:12:13,160 --> 01:12:16,520 Signor Sergio Esposito worked at the abattoir. 1311 01:12:16,520 --> 01:12:20,720 And for the last 40 years he's been cooking offal 1312 01:12:20,720 --> 01:12:24,440 using traditional recipes passed down by his grandmother. 1313 01:12:26,040 --> 01:12:28,240 Buongiorno, Sergio. 1314 01:12:28,240 --> 01:12:30,400 Buongiorno. Come va? Bene. 1315 01:12:30,400 --> 01:12:32,400 Mi amico Andrew. 1316 01:12:32,400 --> 01:12:33,800 ANDREW SPEAKS ITALIAN 1317 01:12:33,800 --> 01:12:35,640 I'm Andrew, ciao. 1318 01:12:35,640 --> 01:12:37,040 Look what he's doing. 1319 01:12:37,040 --> 01:12:39,680 Look, he's cutting your favourite thing. 1320 01:12:39,680 --> 01:12:43,400 La coratella. Oh, so this is the heart and the lungs. The heart... 1321 01:12:43,400 --> 01:12:45,680 The lungs, look at that, look at that. 1322 01:12:45,680 --> 01:12:48,240 Look at that beauty of the lamb. 1323 01:12:48,240 --> 01:12:50,280 You see why they call it the fifth quarter, 1324 01:12:50,280 --> 01:12:53,560 when you look at it, but when you taste it... Yeah! 1325 01:12:53,560 --> 01:12:56,000 TRANSLATION: 1326 01:13:06,360 --> 01:13:09,640 So, when he was little, he used to work where they killed the animals. 1327 01:13:09,640 --> 01:13:11,320 TRANSLATION: 1328 01:13:25,120 --> 01:13:26,800 That's exactly what you were saying. 1329 01:13:26,800 --> 01:13:29,400 So, his grandfather was working in the slaughterhouse. 1330 01:13:29,400 --> 01:13:32,440 And got paid a little bit of money and a little bit of meat. 1331 01:13:32,440 --> 01:13:35,360 And quite a lot of liver. And liver! 1332 01:13:35,360 --> 01:13:37,800 So, you must taste one thing. 1333 01:13:37,800 --> 01:13:40,240 You must taste one thing. Can I taste three things? 1334 01:13:40,240 --> 01:13:41,840 Now then, don't be greedy. 1335 01:13:43,520 --> 01:13:45,760 So, this is a kidney sandwich. 1336 01:13:45,760 --> 01:13:47,720 What else is in the recipe? Onions. 1337 01:13:48,840 --> 01:13:50,520 TRANSLATION: 1338 01:13:52,280 --> 01:13:54,600 And wine. White wine. 1339 01:13:54,600 --> 01:13:55,920 Wine. 1340 01:13:57,680 --> 01:13:59,760 Oh, mamma mia! 1341 01:13:59,760 --> 01:14:01,080 How good is that? 1342 01:14:06,480 --> 01:14:07,720 GIORGIO SPEAKS ITALIAN 1343 01:14:07,720 --> 01:14:08,920 Can I have the...? 1344 01:14:13,080 --> 01:14:16,320 He's obviously got great admiration for you. 1345 01:14:16,320 --> 01:14:18,600 The flavour is incredible and it's so direct. 1346 01:14:18,600 --> 01:14:20,200 There is three ingredients. 1347 01:14:20,200 --> 01:14:22,880 There's white wine, there's onions and there is kidney. 1348 01:14:22,880 --> 01:14:24,640 And you can taste all three of that. 1349 01:14:24,640 --> 01:14:28,040 And when you walk away, tomorrow you will remember what you eat. 1350 01:14:28,040 --> 01:14:29,560 So this is what it's all about. 1351 01:14:29,560 --> 01:14:31,000 I mean, the sweetness, 1352 01:14:31,000 --> 01:14:33,760 the unbelievable flavour that comes through. 1353 01:14:33,760 --> 01:14:34,880 Do you have tripe? 1354 01:14:39,120 --> 01:14:41,960 It might not be to everyone's taste, 1355 01:14:41,960 --> 01:14:46,160 but the stomach lining of a cow cooked with onions and tomato sauce 1356 01:14:46,160 --> 01:14:48,360 is a real delicacy. 1357 01:14:48,360 --> 01:14:49,800 Look at that. 1358 01:14:49,800 --> 01:14:52,520 That's a little bit of pecorino Romano on top. Look at that. 1359 01:14:52,520 --> 01:14:54,080 That's a sandwich. 1360 01:14:58,560 --> 01:15:00,600 The saltiness jumps out at you. 1361 01:15:00,600 --> 01:15:02,880 And it's got a little bit of mentucce in that. 1362 01:15:02,880 --> 01:15:05,120 A touch of mint. 1363 01:15:05,120 --> 01:15:07,920 You see, lots of people, if you even say the word tripe, 1364 01:15:07,920 --> 01:15:10,480 they go, "Ew! How can you eat that?" 1365 01:15:10,480 --> 01:15:13,240 But the truth is, it's such a beautiful, delicate dish. 1366 01:15:13,240 --> 01:15:16,440 It's so rich, isn't it? You can taste the richness of that. 1367 01:15:16,440 --> 01:15:20,160 You know, it's almost sticking, your lips are sticking together. 1368 01:15:20,160 --> 01:15:22,320 Fantastic. La Romanita. 1369 01:15:22,320 --> 01:15:25,480 We tasted "Romanity," that's what he calls it. 1370 01:15:25,480 --> 01:15:27,920 It's a Romeness, Romeness sandwiches. 1371 01:15:27,920 --> 01:15:30,640 Sergio, grazie. Grazie. 1372 01:15:33,520 --> 01:15:35,160 Grazie. Grazie. Arrivederci. 1373 01:15:35,160 --> 01:15:36,920 Ciao, ciao. Ciao! 1374 01:15:42,600 --> 01:15:43,920 HORN TOOTS 1375 01:15:46,160 --> 01:15:49,800 Romanity comes in many forms. 1376 01:15:49,800 --> 01:15:53,760 And if there is one community that's left its mark on 1377 01:15:53,760 --> 01:15:56,800 Roman culinary tradition, it's the Jewish community. 1378 01:16:04,320 --> 01:16:07,680 Their origins in the city can be traced back to 200 BC, 1379 01:16:07,680 --> 01:16:10,800 when envoys arrived from the Holy Land hoping to establish 1380 01:16:10,800 --> 01:16:12,680 trading links with ancient Rome. 1381 01:16:15,600 --> 01:16:18,400 Buongiorno. Buongiorno. 1382 01:16:18,400 --> 01:16:22,040 More than 2,000 years later, the Jewish presence lives on. 1383 01:16:27,800 --> 01:16:29,560 This is called pizza ebraica. 1384 01:16:29,560 --> 01:16:31,440 Grazie. Grazie. 1385 01:16:34,400 --> 01:16:35,920 Are you not going to pay for it? 1386 01:16:38,520 --> 01:16:39,880 It's very special. 1387 01:16:43,640 --> 01:16:46,520 300 years? Si. 1388 01:16:46,520 --> 01:16:49,120 That's... They've been baking in this corner for 300 years. 1389 01:16:49,120 --> 01:16:50,960 Complement... Well, it tastes like it. 1390 01:16:52,760 --> 01:16:54,000 Si. 1391 01:17:07,440 --> 01:17:09,960 Really good. Medieval sweet bread. 1392 01:17:09,960 --> 01:17:11,240 Grazie. 1393 01:17:19,640 --> 01:17:21,760 Grazie. Arrivederci. 1394 01:17:24,920 --> 01:17:29,560 But life for the Jewish people of Rome hasn't always been sweet. 1395 01:17:32,360 --> 01:17:37,800 In 1555, Pope Paul IV ordered the construction of the Jewish ghetto. 1396 01:17:37,800 --> 01:17:42,360 Its walls confined them to a squalid area along the River Tiber. 1397 01:17:43,600 --> 01:17:48,240 Severe laws restricted them to just a few occupations. 1398 01:17:48,240 --> 01:17:51,280 This is a very characteristic street of the ghetto. Mm. 1399 01:17:51,280 --> 01:17:55,560 Because it's narrow, reflecting the medieval origins of this area, 1400 01:17:55,560 --> 01:17:57,880 but it's also really tall. 1401 01:17:57,880 --> 01:18:02,880 So, it's very shadowed, it's very dark, it's a bit dank and damp. 1402 01:18:02,880 --> 01:18:05,680 The reason the buildings are so tall here is because 1403 01:18:05,680 --> 01:18:09,280 the ghetto couldn't expand outwards, so they had to build up. 1404 01:18:09,280 --> 01:18:12,600 Which made the sanitation in an area that was already not great, 1405 01:18:12,600 --> 01:18:15,400 even worse. Yeah. That's the place they were given. 1406 01:18:15,400 --> 01:18:17,960 Like not a very good piece of land. 1407 01:18:19,080 --> 01:18:22,760 They had all these humiliating sort of ceremonies and rituals. 1408 01:18:22,760 --> 01:18:26,600 So if you were the Chief Rabbi in the ghetto, 1409 01:18:26,600 --> 01:18:31,480 every year you had to renegotiate the Jews' tenancy of the ghetto. 1410 01:18:32,520 --> 01:18:37,400 And when the Caporioni, the head of the city councillors of Rome agreed, 1411 01:18:37,400 --> 01:18:41,280 it was marked by ceremony on the Capitoline Hill in that 1412 01:18:41,280 --> 01:18:43,480 beautiful square that Michelangelo designed. 1413 01:18:43,480 --> 01:18:48,760 The rabbi would say, "Oh, thank you for giving me and the Jews 1414 01:18:48,760 --> 01:18:50,520 "another year in the ghetto." 1415 01:18:50,520 --> 01:18:54,440 And the ceremony ended when the rabbi turned round and was 1416 01:18:54,440 --> 01:18:56,880 bent down as part of this public theatre. 1417 01:18:56,880 --> 01:18:59,520 And the Caporioni kicked him in the... Man, no! 1418 01:18:59,520 --> 01:19:01,480 No, really, that was the... 1419 01:19:01,480 --> 01:19:03,120 Well, that's unbelievable. 1420 01:19:07,440 --> 01:19:10,520 Access to food was extremely limited, 1421 01:19:10,520 --> 01:19:15,800 as the Jewish people were restricted in their employment opportunities. 1422 01:19:15,800 --> 01:19:20,480 One of the few occupations permitted was selling food on the street, 1423 01:19:20,480 --> 01:19:23,720 which meant they could bring home the leftovers. 1424 01:19:26,760 --> 01:19:30,000 Despite their limited access to ingredients, 1425 01:19:30,000 --> 01:19:33,040 they still created mouthwatering dishes, 1426 01:19:33,040 --> 01:19:36,280 which have stood the test of time 1427 01:19:36,280 --> 01:19:38,800 and I'm going to cook a couple for Andrew. 1428 01:19:41,360 --> 01:19:43,920 Coffee delivery service! 1429 01:19:43,920 --> 01:19:48,920 Oh! Thank you, Andrew. Good man. 1430 01:19:50,720 --> 01:19:54,560 Mm. Even the takeaway coffee tastes good in Rome, doesn't it? 1431 01:19:54,560 --> 01:19:57,840 It's not bad. OK, look, I'm going to cook you some stuff. 1432 01:19:57,840 --> 01:19:59,400 It's called gozzamoddi. 1433 01:19:59,400 --> 01:20:03,160 And they are like these... Kind of like meatballs. 1434 01:20:03,160 --> 01:20:06,080 Made with chicken? Made with chicken. Bravo. 1435 01:20:06,080 --> 01:20:08,000 You've carefully kept the chicken skin. 1436 01:20:08,000 --> 01:20:11,120 Any type of fat would have been expensive. 1437 01:20:11,120 --> 01:20:16,320 Use the skin. These guys lived on the scraps of everybody else. 1438 01:20:16,320 --> 01:20:20,520 So, it was a cuisine created by the necessity, and as usual, 1439 01:20:20,520 --> 01:20:22,320 a cuisine that creates 1440 01:20:22,320 --> 01:20:25,040 and has its backbone, on necessity - 1441 01:20:25,040 --> 01:20:27,280 that's the cuisine that survives. 1442 01:20:27,280 --> 01:20:29,800 Give me a job. Something not too difficult. 1443 01:20:29,800 --> 01:20:32,400 OK, I'm going to give you a couple of carrots to peel. 1444 01:20:32,400 --> 01:20:34,200 We've got the celery. 1445 01:20:35,600 --> 01:20:37,680 First, I'm going to prepare a sauce 1446 01:20:37,680 --> 01:20:41,600 using carrots, celery, onions and tomato, 1447 01:20:41,600 --> 01:20:43,920 and my secret ingredient. 1448 01:20:43,920 --> 01:20:45,760 So, I have the skin. 1449 01:20:45,760 --> 01:20:48,960 These will give this really beautiful 1450 01:20:48,960 --> 01:20:50,880 chicken flavour to the sauce. 1451 01:20:53,040 --> 01:20:56,440 A nice little... Like if it was a spoonful. 1452 01:20:56,440 --> 01:20:59,680 The smell is very good. Smells like we're cooking, doesn't it? 1453 01:21:01,000 --> 01:21:06,000 One of the typical things of the Jewish community - 1454 01:21:06,000 --> 01:21:08,320 they didn't write the recipe down. 1455 01:21:08,320 --> 01:21:10,760 The recipes were something that were passed 1456 01:21:10,760 --> 01:21:12,560 mostly from mother to daughter. 1457 01:21:12,560 --> 01:21:16,840 This is hundreds of years of refining and refining. 1458 01:21:16,840 --> 01:21:19,760 The experience, the necessity, 1459 01:21:19,760 --> 01:21:21,760 and the availability of ingredients, 1460 01:21:21,760 --> 01:21:24,000 so these are the three things then placed together 1461 01:21:24,000 --> 01:21:26,960 to make this recipe incredible. 1462 01:21:26,960 --> 01:21:30,280 You've got to taste the sauce and tell me if we need more salt. 1463 01:21:30,280 --> 01:21:33,120 Come on. Blow, blow, blow, blow, blow. 1464 01:21:36,760 --> 01:21:38,560 Salt? A tiny bit more. 1465 01:21:40,640 --> 01:21:43,800 A tiny bit of salt, and we let it cook. 1466 01:21:43,800 --> 01:21:47,320 And, you know, could you taste already the chicken in that? 1467 01:21:47,320 --> 01:21:50,480 Yeah. From the fat? Of course. Definitely. Yeah, really nice. 1468 01:21:50,480 --> 01:21:53,080 Unbelievable. I love that. 1469 01:21:53,080 --> 01:21:56,240 Now it needs to simmer, and what we're going to do, 1470 01:21:56,240 --> 01:21:58,680 I'm going to make the meatball mixture. 1471 01:21:58,680 --> 01:22:04,320 I'm going to add salt, pepper, 1472 01:22:04,320 --> 01:22:07,840 a tiny little bit of cinnamon. 1473 01:22:07,840 --> 01:22:10,280 Then, I got a little bit of the kosher bread, 1474 01:22:10,280 --> 01:22:13,880 which I have already sort of put in water. 1475 01:22:13,880 --> 01:22:18,320 So, this is going to give me a really, really nice consistency. 1476 01:22:18,320 --> 01:22:22,160 The egg is to bind it? That's right. It's going to sort of become 1477 01:22:22,160 --> 01:22:26,280 a beautiful glomerated mass of flavour. OK. 1478 01:22:27,840 --> 01:22:31,000 And is the idea that the meatball in the sauce - 1479 01:22:31,000 --> 01:22:33,120 that is the dish, there's nothing else? 1480 01:22:33,120 --> 01:22:35,960 No, that's it. There's no rice or potatoes? 1481 01:22:35,960 --> 01:22:38,440 No, they would eat so frugally. 1482 01:22:38,440 --> 01:22:40,600 No, there is nothing coming with that. 1483 01:22:40,600 --> 01:22:43,760 Six of them. OK, I'm going to place them in. 1484 01:22:47,200 --> 01:22:49,880 And now we're going to have to go and get the artichoke 1485 01:22:49,880 --> 01:22:53,960 because you can't come to Rome, in the Jewish quarter, 1486 01:22:53,960 --> 01:22:55,720 and not having artichoke. 1487 01:22:55,720 --> 01:22:57,760 But, hang on, they're not in season. 1488 01:22:57,760 --> 01:23:00,240 If you know people, you can get artichoke. 1489 01:23:00,240 --> 01:23:03,320 So, we're going to cut the stems off. 1490 01:23:03,320 --> 01:23:06,320 Roman artichokes are exceptionally tender. 1491 01:23:08,160 --> 01:23:11,200 Everything, from the leaves to the stem and heart, 1492 01:23:11,200 --> 01:23:13,240 is edible and delicious. 1493 01:23:18,120 --> 01:23:21,040 It's got that silvery green, doesn't it? 1494 01:23:21,040 --> 01:23:25,080 That's quite a noise. Beautiful, isn't it? The cauldron is bubbling. 1495 01:23:25,080 --> 01:23:29,800 This way of deep-frying artichokes is known as carciofi alla giudia, 1496 01:23:29,800 --> 01:23:31,800 Jewish-style artichoke, 1497 01:23:31,800 --> 01:23:35,720 and it's now one of the most famous of all Roman recipes. 1498 01:23:35,720 --> 01:23:41,080 Cos the ghetto's so small, everybody else would know 1499 01:23:41,080 --> 01:23:43,600 that the mama in this house is cooking the artichokes 1500 01:23:43,600 --> 01:23:45,960 cos the smell is travelling down the street. 1501 01:23:47,960 --> 01:23:50,400 The idea is to open it up. 1502 01:23:50,400 --> 01:23:52,560 No mistaking that you're eating a flower. 1503 01:23:52,560 --> 01:23:54,680 So, they're actually cooked? 1504 01:23:54,680 --> 01:23:57,800 You're just finishing the texture? Yeah. 1505 01:23:57,800 --> 01:23:59,920 You're going to sort of flash-fry them? 1506 01:24:02,280 --> 01:24:06,800 Look at that. It makes me think of Van Gogh's sunflowers! 1507 01:24:06,800 --> 01:24:09,080 THEY LAUGH You've just painted a picture! 1508 01:24:09,080 --> 01:24:12,600 Une artiste! I cannot be more happy than that. 1509 01:24:17,640 --> 01:24:19,800 I think it's perfect. 1510 01:24:22,800 --> 01:24:24,720 Well, this is so lovely. Mm. 1511 01:24:24,720 --> 01:24:27,760 I like the contrast in the two textures. 1512 01:24:27,760 --> 01:24:31,640 So, the heart is all soft, almost like an avocado. 1513 01:24:31,640 --> 01:24:33,480 Mm. And the petals are... 1514 01:24:33,480 --> 01:24:35,840 Nice and crispy. Yeah, they're like crisps. 1515 01:24:35,840 --> 01:24:37,480 Taking my hat off 1516 01:24:37,480 --> 01:24:41,080 to the Jewish tradition of cooking artichoke like that. 1517 01:24:41,080 --> 01:24:42,400 I think it's stunning. 1518 01:24:42,400 --> 01:24:44,080 Mm-mm-mm! 1519 01:24:46,840 --> 01:24:49,880 Oh, such a smell! Mm! 1520 01:24:49,880 --> 01:24:53,240 Really chicken, but also with this rich tomato, as well. 1521 01:24:53,240 --> 01:24:55,400 Let's taste it. 1522 01:24:55,400 --> 01:24:57,680 See? Mm! 1523 01:24:57,680 --> 01:25:01,080 Amazing, yeah? That is amazing! GIORGIO CHUCKLES 1524 01:25:01,080 --> 01:25:03,120 The experience in the mouth 1525 01:25:03,120 --> 01:25:08,080 is that it's such a refined dish, it's such a delicate flavour. 1526 01:25:08,080 --> 01:25:11,680 So light. We're touching this small history, the human history. 1527 01:25:11,680 --> 01:25:13,680 On the one hand, you've got the artichoke, 1528 01:25:13,680 --> 01:25:15,320 which is made by people who know that, 1529 01:25:15,320 --> 01:25:18,040 at any point, they might have to run away. 1530 01:25:18,040 --> 01:25:20,160 So, they're doing something that they can keep, 1531 01:25:20,160 --> 01:25:22,960 they can eat in a week. You can literally put it in your pocket. 1532 01:25:22,960 --> 01:25:25,200 Yeah. The other hand, with the meatballs, 1533 01:25:25,200 --> 01:25:27,320 they're making food that, simultaneously, 1534 01:25:27,320 --> 01:25:30,880 is completely of this place - Rome - with these wonderful ingredients, 1535 01:25:30,880 --> 01:25:33,000 but also they just have this little memory 1536 01:25:33,000 --> 01:25:35,960 of the travels of the Jews in the form of the cinnamon... Mm. 1537 01:25:35,960 --> 01:25:39,080 ..which is not something I associate at all with Italian food. 1538 01:25:39,080 --> 01:25:41,720 Yeah, I wouldn't think any Italian would put any cinnamon. 1539 01:25:41,720 --> 01:25:43,840 I mean, I don't know where cinnamon comes from, 1540 01:25:43,840 --> 01:25:47,200 but, to me, it's a little taste of, you know, the Middle East. 1541 01:25:47,200 --> 01:25:50,240 And the little girl can be told by her mum, "You see the cinnamon? 1542 01:25:50,240 --> 01:25:51,880 "That's because we've been there." 1543 01:25:53,320 --> 01:25:57,360 It's lovely. Thank you, Giorgio. That's absolutely delicious. 1544 01:25:57,360 --> 01:26:00,680 I never had something where the appearance is so, 1545 01:26:00,680 --> 01:26:03,960 as it were, ordinary, and the taste is so sublime. 1546 01:26:23,160 --> 01:26:26,160 Grazie. Oh, Andrew! Look at that. That's... 1547 01:26:28,240 --> 01:26:32,720 ..30% and 50% schiuma. 1548 01:26:32,720 --> 01:26:35,160 Schiuma. La schiuma. There's no milk, just cream? 1549 01:26:35,160 --> 01:26:37,280 No, this is the cream of the coffee. 1550 01:26:38,640 --> 01:26:41,600 What I like about Rome is that, in most other cities, 1551 01:26:41,600 --> 01:26:45,200 if you want to experience the past, you have to go into a museum. 1552 01:26:45,200 --> 01:26:48,600 You have to go inside, to a museum. Right. Here in Rome - no, no. 1553 01:26:48,600 --> 01:26:51,640 If you want to tell me about the past, and the slaughterhouses, 1554 01:26:51,640 --> 01:26:54,640 and what it was like one date, you just take me over there, 1555 01:26:54,640 --> 01:26:57,560 and it's all still there. Old places - that can be the museum. 1556 01:26:57,560 --> 01:27:00,720 Yes, you're right. But it's not a museum of history with a capital H. 1557 01:27:00,720 --> 01:27:04,440 It's a museum of history with a small H for humanity. 1558 01:27:04,440 --> 01:27:06,440 For humanity. It's the history of food, 1559 01:27:06,440 --> 01:27:09,080 or it might be the history of what the Jews once did here, 1560 01:27:09,080 --> 01:27:10,680 how they once lived. 1561 01:27:10,680 --> 01:27:13,320 That's what I like. Everywhere you turn, 1562 01:27:13,320 --> 01:27:15,480 there's another story. Yes. 1563 01:27:15,480 --> 01:27:19,360 So, today, we're going to go and see something from high, high culture. 1564 01:27:19,360 --> 01:27:21,880 OK. We're going to go to one of the great palaces. 1565 01:27:21,880 --> 01:27:24,920 My favourite thing in there is actually not, 1566 01:27:24,920 --> 01:27:26,720 like, a famous, great masterpiece. 1567 01:27:26,720 --> 01:27:30,040 It's something quite strange and unusual, and it's food-related. 1568 01:27:30,040 --> 01:27:32,160 Grazie. Grazie. Buona giornata. 1569 01:27:39,520 --> 01:27:41,520 This would be a nice street to live in, 1570 01:27:41,520 --> 01:27:44,640 with all these beautiful views across the Tiber. 1571 01:27:47,520 --> 01:27:49,440 HORN HONKS 1572 01:27:51,200 --> 01:27:53,000 Here we are. 1573 01:27:53,000 --> 01:27:55,200 We're heading to the Palazzo Colonna, 1574 01:27:55,200 --> 01:27:59,880 one of the oldest and largest private palaces in all of Rome. 1575 01:27:59,880 --> 01:28:02,440 Nice little abode. HE CHUCKLES 1576 01:28:02,440 --> 01:28:04,680 Yes, humble - not quite. 1577 01:28:06,360 --> 01:28:09,720 The Palazzo Colonna spans an entire city block. 1578 01:28:09,720 --> 01:28:12,160 Its construction began in the 14th century, 1579 01:28:12,160 --> 01:28:15,800 and the building work lasted for 500 years, 1580 01:28:15,800 --> 01:28:19,960 hence the rich mix of different architectural styles. 1581 01:28:19,960 --> 01:28:23,840 Even the great artist and architect Gian Lorenzo Bernini 1582 01:28:23,840 --> 01:28:28,600 lent his expertise to the building and design of the palace. 1583 01:28:28,600 --> 01:28:32,160 So, this is the great symbol of the Colonna - the column. 1584 01:28:32,160 --> 01:28:34,440 And then, on the side, this inscription. 1585 01:28:34,440 --> 01:28:38,480 "Semper immota." Never moved. Never moved. 1586 01:28:38,480 --> 01:28:40,400 Always here. 1587 01:28:40,400 --> 01:28:44,200 And you can't say that it's a hollow boast, 1588 01:28:44,200 --> 01:28:48,240 cos they are still here. Right. That's Aslan for us, to meet us. 1589 01:28:48,240 --> 01:28:51,400 Salve. Buongiorno, Aslan. Buongiorno. Buongiorno. Buongiorno. 1590 01:28:51,400 --> 01:28:53,760 Aslan, a member of the modern Colonna family, 1591 01:28:53,760 --> 01:28:56,280 is going to show us around. 1592 01:28:56,280 --> 01:28:59,040 Giorgio, after you. Oh, thank you. 1593 01:28:59,040 --> 01:29:02,720 The Colonna family was among the most powerful and influential 1594 01:29:02,720 --> 01:29:06,120 of the Roman baronial dynasties. 1595 01:29:06,120 --> 01:29:11,240 Within their family tree, you can find a Pope, a saint, 1596 01:29:11,240 --> 01:29:16,800 a spiritual adviser of Michelangelo, a general, a patron of Caravaggio, 1597 01:29:16,800 --> 01:29:20,000 and many other church and political leaders. 1598 01:29:22,280 --> 01:29:24,560 Oh! That's why I took my glasses off. 1599 01:29:24,560 --> 01:29:27,880 Yes, yes, you need to take your glasses off. 1600 01:29:27,880 --> 01:29:30,440 What a room! 1601 01:29:30,440 --> 01:29:32,920 Giorgio, hai visto? 1602 01:29:32,920 --> 01:29:35,600 Amazing. Amazing. 1603 01:29:35,600 --> 01:29:37,600 Not a bad room to have a party in. 1604 01:29:39,400 --> 01:29:41,880 The splendid Galleria Colonna 1605 01:29:41,880 --> 01:29:44,240 was commissioned in the mid-17th century 1606 01:29:44,240 --> 01:29:50,480 by Cardinal Girolamo and his nephew Lorenzo Onofrio Colonna. 1607 01:29:50,480 --> 01:29:53,240 What a thing, huh? Oh, my God! 1608 01:29:53,240 --> 01:29:57,840 From the outset, the gallery was conceived as a vast stage set 1609 01:29:57,840 --> 01:30:00,920 to celebrate the Colonna family's part 1610 01:30:00,920 --> 01:30:05,520 in a famous military victory of 1571. 1611 01:30:05,520 --> 01:30:08,360 The room is 76 metres long 1612 01:30:08,360 --> 01:30:11,640 and every square inch is decorated, gilded, 1613 01:30:11,640 --> 01:30:14,200 or adorned with sculpture. 1614 01:30:14,200 --> 01:30:17,000 You can't come in here and not be amazed. 1615 01:30:19,040 --> 01:30:23,120 On the roof, you've got the great Battle of Lepanto. 1616 01:30:23,120 --> 01:30:28,560 It's really the one great victory of the Christians over Islam. 1617 01:30:28,560 --> 01:30:33,040 In command of the victorious fleet is Marcantonio Colonna, 1618 01:30:33,040 --> 01:30:36,760 and the Colonna family will never let the world forget 1619 01:30:36,760 --> 01:30:39,560 that they were at the centre of this triumph. 1620 01:30:39,560 --> 01:30:42,680 Still, in Italy, you know, if you see a big guy, 1621 01:30:42,680 --> 01:30:44,880 you say, "Che bel pezzo di Marcantonio." 1622 01:30:44,880 --> 01:30:47,240 It means, "What a great big man." 1623 01:30:47,240 --> 01:30:49,280 So, still hundreds and hundreds of years, 1624 01:30:49,280 --> 01:30:51,320 these guys set the standard, 1625 01:30:51,320 --> 01:30:56,160 and the Italians still, you know, aim to Marcantonio. 1626 01:30:56,160 --> 01:30:58,360 I mean, the action there, you can actually... 1627 01:30:58,360 --> 01:31:01,360 You feel the spray of the sea coming down towards you. 1628 01:31:01,360 --> 01:31:03,080 You see these people drowning and... 1629 01:31:03,080 --> 01:31:05,120 And all the flags. ..it is unbelievable. 1630 01:31:05,120 --> 01:31:07,680 Beautifully vibrant and beautiful colour. 1631 01:31:10,200 --> 01:31:12,160 It's a very famous room even for people 1632 01:31:12,160 --> 01:31:14,680 who are not perhaps interested in art history, 1633 01:31:14,680 --> 01:31:17,720 because this is where they shot the final scene of Roman Holiday. 1634 01:31:17,720 --> 01:31:20,040 Roman Holiday was here. 1635 01:31:20,040 --> 01:31:22,080 And up there was Audrey Hepburn 1636 01:31:22,080 --> 01:31:24,200 saying hello to all the journalists here. 1637 01:31:24,200 --> 01:31:26,720 That's right. And then there's poor Gregory Peck. 1638 01:31:26,720 --> 01:31:30,040 Was it Gregory Peck? Gregory Peck, yeah. Yeah, with his broken heart. 1639 01:31:30,040 --> 01:31:33,160 But, I mean, if ever a room was waiting for the cinema... 1640 01:31:33,160 --> 01:31:34,760 It's this one. ..it's this one. 1641 01:31:36,520 --> 01:31:37,960 Thank you, Aslan. Grazie. 1642 01:31:37,960 --> 01:31:40,440 Grazie. Is it OK if we stay just a little while longer? 1643 01:31:40,440 --> 01:31:42,080 Of course. There's plenty of space. 1644 01:31:42,080 --> 01:31:43,800 There's quite a lot of things to look at. 1645 01:31:44,960 --> 01:31:49,880 This palace, every room - every room - is a cornucopia. 1646 01:31:51,920 --> 01:31:53,280 I love this painting. 1647 01:31:53,280 --> 01:31:56,520 This is such a strange, weird, wonderful painting. 1648 01:31:56,520 --> 01:32:00,760 It was commissioned by him, Filippo Colonna, 1649 01:32:00,760 --> 01:32:03,760 after the death of his wife and the death of his mother. 1650 01:32:03,760 --> 01:32:07,160 And what he wanted was a depiction of the souls of the blessed 1651 01:32:07,160 --> 01:32:12,640 rising on the last day when Christ comes back, 1652 01:32:12,640 --> 01:32:14,720 and we are all born again. 1653 01:32:14,720 --> 01:32:17,400 And everyone being born again is a Colonna. 1654 01:32:17,400 --> 01:32:21,160 Look, there's Marcantonio Colonna. Marcantonio. 1655 01:32:21,160 --> 01:32:22,680 And when I see him there, 1656 01:32:22,680 --> 01:32:24,920 I see what you mean when you say he's like a big guy. 1657 01:32:24,920 --> 01:32:26,960 I mean, he looks like a wrestler! 1658 01:32:26,960 --> 01:32:29,520 He's going to wrestle his way into heaven. 1659 01:32:29,520 --> 01:32:32,200 Isn't that something? By Pietro Da Cortona. 1660 01:32:32,200 --> 01:32:35,720 So, by a famous artist, I've never seen a painting quite like it. 1661 01:32:37,320 --> 01:32:42,920 Talking of eternity and the soul, this is the family's chapel. Mm. 1662 01:32:44,600 --> 01:32:47,720 Even in such a rich art collection as this, 1663 01:32:47,720 --> 01:32:52,160 if you dig a little, there's always a surprise to unearth. 1664 01:32:52,160 --> 01:32:54,880 Look at this. Oh, my God. 1665 01:32:54,880 --> 01:32:58,920 This has only been discovered 1666 01:32:58,920 --> 01:33:02,840 by the Colonna family themselves last year. 1667 01:33:02,840 --> 01:33:08,440 There was always a rather dirty cross on the altar, 1668 01:33:08,440 --> 01:33:11,200 but they only recently realised that it was actually a box, 1669 01:33:11,200 --> 01:33:13,280 and that, inside... No way! Yeah. 1670 01:33:13,280 --> 01:33:15,640 This was inside the box! This was inside. 1671 01:33:15,640 --> 01:33:20,680 It's late 15th century, it's from Florence... 1672 01:33:21,680 --> 01:33:23,880 ..but they don't know who it's by. 1673 01:33:23,880 --> 01:33:26,480 Some people have suggested Antonio da Sangallo. 1674 01:33:26,480 --> 01:33:29,440 Some people have suggested it could even be by Michelangelo. 1675 01:33:29,440 --> 01:33:31,560 Look at the ribcage, look at the blood, 1676 01:33:31,560 --> 01:33:34,560 look at the handling of the drapery and the face. 1677 01:33:35,680 --> 01:33:39,320 Absolutely amazing thing. Mm. 1678 01:33:39,320 --> 01:33:41,440 Can you imagine having that, you know, 1679 01:33:41,440 --> 01:33:44,280 sort of forgotten in a cupboard? 1680 01:33:44,280 --> 01:33:48,400 That is unbelievable. 1681 01:33:48,400 --> 01:33:49,680 Not bad, eh? 1682 01:33:51,240 --> 01:33:53,720 I've got something that I think 1683 01:33:53,720 --> 01:33:55,920 is definitely going to be to your taste, 1684 01:33:55,920 --> 01:33:59,200 and I mean taste with a capital T. 1685 01:34:00,800 --> 01:34:03,280 From the sacred to the profane. 1686 01:34:03,280 --> 01:34:05,760 If ever there was a picture for Giorgio Locatelli, 1687 01:34:05,760 --> 01:34:09,280 surely, it's this one. It's called... 1688 01:34:09,280 --> 01:34:12,400 BOTH: The Beaneater. Yeah. You know, I know this picture, 1689 01:34:12,400 --> 01:34:16,160 because that was right in the front of the cookery books... 1690 01:34:16,160 --> 01:34:18,520 Oh, really? ..I used to have at school. Yes. 1691 01:34:18,520 --> 01:34:22,400 This is beautiful because, look, these are black-eyed beans. 1692 01:34:22,400 --> 01:34:24,360 You see a little bit of the juices there. 1693 01:34:24,360 --> 01:34:27,000 Can you see it falling down? Yes! 1694 01:34:27,000 --> 01:34:30,560 And that's like... Look at that. Like a cipollotto. 1695 01:34:30,560 --> 01:34:33,120 Brown bread, cos, obviously, at that time, you know, 1696 01:34:33,120 --> 01:34:35,120 they didn't make white flour yet. 1697 01:34:35,120 --> 01:34:37,960 Typical Roman way to cut it on the top like that. 1698 01:34:37,960 --> 01:34:40,360 And then you can see that you can break it up in pieces. 1699 01:34:40,360 --> 01:34:42,040 So, he's holding one piece. 1700 01:34:42,040 --> 01:34:46,320 You know this is painted by Annibale Carracci in the 1590s? 1701 01:34:46,320 --> 01:34:48,040 This was his version of Arte Povera. 1702 01:34:48,040 --> 01:34:50,680 This was his way of painting the life 1703 01:34:50,680 --> 01:34:52,720 of poor, ordinary, working people. 1704 01:34:52,720 --> 01:34:55,400 He pioneered this, along with Caravaggio. 1705 01:34:55,400 --> 01:34:58,280 It's almost as if Carracci has changed his style 1706 01:34:58,280 --> 01:34:59,840 to adapt to the subject matter. 1707 01:34:59,840 --> 01:35:03,120 He's painting something that is quite a poor subject 1708 01:35:03,120 --> 01:35:04,840 and he's doing it very quickly. 1709 01:35:04,840 --> 01:35:06,680 He's doing low colours, 1710 01:35:06,680 --> 01:35:09,920 not bright flashes of red or ultramarine blue. 1711 01:35:09,920 --> 01:35:12,920 It's brilliant that they've put it underneath this picture, 1712 01:35:12,920 --> 01:35:15,160 which is all about Mary as the Queen of Heaven, 1713 01:35:15,160 --> 01:35:17,480 you know, wearing her wonderful draperies. 1714 01:35:17,480 --> 01:35:22,560 And then, beneath, it's the people's king of the beans! 1715 01:35:22,560 --> 01:35:24,840 And it's lovely, as well, I think that, you know, 1716 01:35:24,840 --> 01:35:28,160 in the Palazzo Colonna, which is so much a place 1717 01:35:28,160 --> 01:35:31,840 about this huge span of history, 1718 01:35:31,840 --> 01:35:34,880 in the end, what's the painting we've finished in front of? 1719 01:35:34,880 --> 01:35:37,280 A peasant eating his dinner. And how Roman is that? 1720 01:35:37,280 --> 01:35:41,120 This is great for me to have seen this. Really. 1721 01:35:47,960 --> 01:35:50,680 HORN HONKS It wouldn't be Rome if we didn't hit 1722 01:35:50,680 --> 01:35:53,120 an occasional traffic jam, would it? Yeah. 1723 01:35:54,560 --> 01:35:57,920 I Vigili del Fuoco - the fire brigade, Andrew. 1724 01:35:59,120 --> 01:36:01,000 Andiamo. HORN HONKS 1725 01:36:04,040 --> 01:36:06,120 So, where are we going, Giorgio? 1726 01:36:06,120 --> 01:36:10,280 We're going to see a very good chef. What's her name? 1727 01:36:10,280 --> 01:36:12,840 Si chiama Cristina Bowerman. 1728 01:36:12,840 --> 01:36:16,600 She's very inspiring, the way she works with old recipes. 1729 01:36:16,600 --> 01:36:19,560 Her food is really top-notch. 1730 01:36:19,560 --> 01:36:22,040 Maybe she can cook us some beans, eh? 1731 01:36:22,040 --> 01:36:24,320 Well, that's... Let's hope so. 1732 01:36:27,480 --> 01:36:32,160 Cristina's Michelin-starred restaurant is called Glass Hostaria. 1733 01:36:32,160 --> 01:36:35,120 It's in the trendy neighbourhood of Trastevere 1734 01:36:35,120 --> 01:36:37,000 in the centre of the city. 1735 01:36:37,000 --> 01:36:38,960 You come from these great, wide avenues 1736 01:36:38,960 --> 01:36:42,000 into these little almost like labyrinths of streets. 1737 01:36:42,000 --> 01:36:46,760 With all these bars and restaurants, everybody eating and drinking. 1738 01:36:48,440 --> 01:36:50,320 HORN HONKS This is it? 1739 01:36:50,320 --> 01:36:52,000 I'm going to introduce you. 1740 01:36:54,240 --> 01:36:57,120 Cristina. In this beautiful tavern. How are you? 1741 01:36:57,120 --> 01:36:59,960 Can we come in? Welcome. Very well. Yes. Come on over. 1742 01:36:59,960 --> 01:37:04,760 Cristina uses ingredients from traditional Roman cuisine. 1743 01:37:04,760 --> 01:37:08,960 Today, she's going to cook for us a unique cheesecake. 1744 01:37:08,960 --> 01:37:13,520 A cheesecake? A cheesecake with pasta, with beans and mussels. 1745 01:37:13,520 --> 01:37:16,960 Are we talking about almost a scherzo on the cheesecake? 1746 01:37:16,960 --> 01:37:18,960 Exactly. Cos it's a joke on the cheesecake. 1747 01:37:18,960 --> 01:37:20,840 That is exactly it. Cos we're savoury here. 1748 01:37:20,840 --> 01:37:22,240 We're not sweet. Exactly. 1749 01:37:22,240 --> 01:37:24,560 This is actually the base of the cheesecake, 1750 01:37:24,560 --> 01:37:27,040 but let me show you how I did it. 1751 01:37:27,040 --> 01:37:31,240 She boiled it, and then she put it into a dryer and dried. 1752 01:37:31,240 --> 01:37:32,880 Can I just get that right? 1753 01:37:32,880 --> 01:37:35,240 The base of the cheesecake - you cook pasta? 1754 01:37:35,240 --> 01:37:37,000 Exactly. You, then, when it's cooked... 1755 01:37:37,000 --> 01:37:38,320 Dry them. ..you deep-fry it? 1756 01:37:38,320 --> 01:37:41,080 Yes. Deep-fried it. Then you dry it in the oven? 1757 01:37:41,080 --> 01:37:42,480 And then you crunch it up? 1758 01:37:42,480 --> 01:37:45,920 So, it's instead of the biscuits? Exactly. 1759 01:37:45,920 --> 01:37:50,160 How thick do you want it? I want it, like, this thick. 1760 01:37:51,360 --> 01:37:54,160 OK. And you need to press it. 1761 01:37:55,800 --> 01:37:57,880 So, now... What's this extraordinary...? 1762 01:37:57,880 --> 01:38:00,920 That's the beans. That's the beans. This is cannellini beans. 1763 01:38:00,920 --> 01:38:03,760 The cannellini beans that have been made into a puree. 1764 01:38:03,760 --> 01:38:06,560 This is what that becomes? Exactly. That's exactly it. 1765 01:38:06,560 --> 01:38:09,360 Beans are really part of our tradition. 1766 01:38:09,360 --> 01:38:12,600 They used to say the Roman army would travel on their stomach 1767 01:38:12,600 --> 01:38:16,440 and, you know, what they would carry would be like cicerchie. 1768 01:38:16,440 --> 01:38:18,360 They will have... Chickpeas? Yeah, like... 1769 01:38:18,360 --> 01:38:20,120 Cicerchie is like wild chickpeas 1770 01:38:20,120 --> 01:38:23,240 that they used to carry on their bags with their salt - 1771 01:38:23,240 --> 01:38:25,240 their own salt - and a little bit of flour. 1772 01:38:25,240 --> 01:38:27,840 So, they would do this, like, cook the beans, 1773 01:38:27,840 --> 01:38:30,320 add things, and make some... I don't know. Some bread. 1774 01:38:30,320 --> 01:38:32,280 And they would make up something like that, 1775 01:38:32,280 --> 01:38:33,960 even as they were advancing. 1776 01:38:33,960 --> 01:38:37,680 So, even this would probably very much surprise a Roman soldier, 1777 01:38:37,680 --> 01:38:40,320 but he would still, in some taste memory, 1778 01:38:40,320 --> 01:38:42,160 he would know what it is. 1779 01:38:42,160 --> 01:38:46,120 It's going to look like a dessert! Exactly. 1780 01:38:46,120 --> 01:38:49,240 And this is my last touch. Smell it. 1781 01:38:50,480 --> 01:38:53,800 Wow! That is... Those are mussels. 1782 01:38:53,800 --> 01:38:56,280 Goodness me. So, how have you prepared those? 1783 01:38:56,280 --> 01:39:00,440 I cooked them up, then I dehydrated them, 1784 01:39:00,440 --> 01:39:04,520 and then I powderised them. Goodness me. I never heard of that. 1785 01:39:04,520 --> 01:39:06,800 Can you buy this or...? No, you have to make it fresh. 1786 01:39:06,800 --> 01:39:09,360 No, no, no, I made them. You make it yourself? Yeah. Yeah. 1787 01:39:09,360 --> 01:39:12,840 So, you're going to have that bean taste, pasta taste, 1788 01:39:12,840 --> 01:39:16,480 and then you're going to be hit by that sort of flavour of the fish 1789 01:39:16,480 --> 01:39:19,920 because, you know, like, the mussel, they've got that really fish... 1790 01:39:19,920 --> 01:39:23,600 Rich, fishy flavour. That is very ingenious. 1791 01:39:23,600 --> 01:39:29,280 So, when did you invent this recipe? Last month. Last month?! 1792 01:39:29,280 --> 01:39:33,720 So, this is straight off the wheel of time. 1793 01:39:33,720 --> 01:39:38,360 Mm! Can you taste the mussels? Yeah. Very strong. 1794 01:39:38,360 --> 01:39:40,200 The mussel comes at the end... At the end. 1795 01:39:40,200 --> 01:39:41,720 ..with the seasoning and... 1796 01:39:41,720 --> 01:39:44,120 And that's the thing that should stay with you. 1797 01:39:44,120 --> 01:39:46,520 What I love also is this crust. 1798 01:39:46,520 --> 01:39:48,960 I have one little more surprise. 1799 01:39:48,960 --> 01:39:51,920 Could you wait just 20 seconds? I'm going to go get it. OK. 1800 01:39:51,920 --> 01:39:55,120 We can wait. You can clean up here, so I can put it right there. 1801 01:39:55,120 --> 01:39:58,640 We can eat a bit more of this if you want. So... 1802 01:39:58,640 --> 01:40:00,960 Ooh, wow! Cannelloni. 1803 01:40:00,960 --> 01:40:02,960 I want you to taste it and guess what it is. 1804 01:40:06,840 --> 01:40:11,240 Mm! It's some kind of beautiful semifreddo. 1805 01:40:11,240 --> 01:40:14,880 Mm-hm. Made of...? 1806 01:40:14,880 --> 01:40:17,800 If you're going to put me to the test, it's like nougat? 1807 01:40:17,800 --> 01:40:20,440 Almonds? OK, I'll make it easy for you. 1808 01:40:20,440 --> 01:40:23,120 They are all beans. That's all beans?! 1809 01:40:23,120 --> 01:40:25,960 This is a meringue made out of the leftover water 1810 01:40:25,960 --> 01:40:27,600 from cooking the beans. 1811 01:40:27,600 --> 01:40:31,040 That's a bean powder, and that's a bean mousse. 1812 01:40:31,040 --> 01:40:33,120 You're kidding me! Yes. You are kidding me. 1813 01:40:33,120 --> 01:40:35,440 The only different thing is it's an almond outside. 1814 01:40:35,440 --> 01:40:38,440 There is an almond. I knew there was an almond. Yeah, the green stuff. 1815 01:40:38,440 --> 01:40:41,000 But everything else is a bean? Everything else is a bean. 1816 01:40:41,000 --> 01:40:44,440 You are kidding me. So, you can make anything out of a bean, right? 1817 01:40:44,440 --> 01:40:46,600 Not only. You use everything, even the water. 1818 01:40:46,600 --> 01:40:48,800 No, I don't mean... I don't mean one. 1819 01:40:48,800 --> 01:40:51,400 I mean YOU can make anything out of a bean. 1820 01:40:51,400 --> 01:40:53,560 Thank you. Yes. You really can. 1821 01:40:55,000 --> 01:40:58,600 Come on, let's go. Thank you. This was delicious. That was fantastic. 1822 01:40:58,600 --> 01:41:02,280 It's BEAN great. SHE CHUCKLES 1823 01:41:11,160 --> 01:41:13,080 But in the 1920s, 1824 01:41:13,080 --> 01:41:16,120 there was a man who wanted to shake up the Italian way 1825 01:41:16,120 --> 01:41:17,960 of living and thinking. 1826 01:41:17,960 --> 01:41:19,920 Everything, from the food they ate 1827 01:41:19,920 --> 01:41:22,800 to the attitude towards work and the state. 1828 01:41:24,320 --> 01:41:26,720 Fascist dictator Benito Mussolini 1829 01:41:26,720 --> 01:41:30,320 dreamt of restoring the glories of the past - 1830 01:41:30,320 --> 01:41:35,760 to turn a nation of spaghetti eaters into gladiators, even gods. 1831 01:41:37,240 --> 01:41:40,080 In 1922 he came to power, 1832 01:41:40,080 --> 01:41:45,400 determined to transform what was still a very young and weak country. 1833 01:41:46,800 --> 01:41:49,640 So beautiful, isn't it? Look at that. 1834 01:41:49,640 --> 01:41:51,960 In Rome, he demolished old neighbourhoods, 1835 01:41:51,960 --> 01:41:55,000 creating new districts full of angular buildings 1836 01:41:55,000 --> 01:41:58,320 in a style known as fascist architecture. 1837 01:41:58,320 --> 01:42:00,520 It's really striking, isn't it? 1838 01:42:01,640 --> 01:42:04,880 We've come to visit one of his most symbolic architectural projects 1839 01:42:04,880 --> 01:42:06,880 in the northern part of Rome. 1840 01:42:10,360 --> 01:42:14,960 This is the Stadio dei Marmi, designed by Enrico Del Debbio. 1841 01:42:14,960 --> 01:42:19,680 This is very much Mussolini's vision for a new Italy - 1842 01:42:19,680 --> 01:42:22,320 strong, tall. 1843 01:42:22,320 --> 01:42:29,040 The statues evoke the ancient Roman idea of health, physique. 1844 01:42:29,040 --> 01:42:35,000 "If our boys can be trained up to win the 100 metres, the shot put, 1845 01:42:35,000 --> 01:42:37,880 "the boxing, then Italy can win a war. 1846 01:42:37,880 --> 01:42:41,040 "Italy can rule Europe." 1847 01:42:41,040 --> 01:42:43,880 The statues are made of Carrara marble. 1848 01:42:43,880 --> 01:42:46,960 Each one has the name of a different province of Italy. Yes. 1849 01:42:46,960 --> 01:42:51,000 So, apparently, each of the provinces was to... 1850 01:42:51,000 --> 01:42:55,240 They agreed to donate one of the statues. 1851 01:42:55,240 --> 01:42:57,480 They "agreed". THEY CHUCKLE 1852 01:42:57,480 --> 01:43:01,200 Like they had much choice! They agreed to donate a statue. 1853 01:43:01,200 --> 01:43:05,400 Oh, I see. So, that's why Venice is the sailor. Of course. 1854 01:43:05,400 --> 01:43:07,880 Football - that must be Milan, right? 1855 01:43:07,880 --> 01:43:10,080 THEY LAUGH 1856 01:43:10,080 --> 01:43:12,400 Have you noticed, they all have the same bottom? 1857 01:43:12,400 --> 01:43:15,000 It's the bottom of Michelangelo's David. 1858 01:43:15,000 --> 01:43:20,240 Also, they're all in this kind of Michelangelo pastiche. 1859 01:43:20,240 --> 01:43:24,040 Also, the same style as Hitler's statues. 1860 01:43:24,040 --> 01:43:28,480 Yeah. Arno Breker. This idea of the Aryan perfect body. 1861 01:43:28,480 --> 01:43:30,800 There's a bit of eugenics, I think, about this. 1862 01:43:30,800 --> 01:43:33,560 You know, "If we breed from the right stock, 1863 01:43:33,560 --> 01:43:37,400 "Italians will all grow to be 20ft tall." 1864 01:43:37,400 --> 01:43:39,520 The setting is incredible, 1865 01:43:39,520 --> 01:43:43,440 but I can't stop that little bit of sadness 1866 01:43:43,440 --> 01:43:46,440 to really think what this really represents - 1867 01:43:46,440 --> 01:43:47,880 this delusional moment, 1868 01:43:47,880 --> 01:43:50,280 this moment that Italy thought about themselves 1869 01:43:50,280 --> 01:43:54,760 really something that we are not. 1870 01:43:54,760 --> 01:43:56,800 Is there anywhere else in Europe than...? 1871 01:43:56,800 --> 01:43:59,360 Something like that was there from a previous regime 1872 01:43:59,360 --> 01:44:03,040 would have been, like, blown away and broken down. That's very Rome. 1873 01:44:03,040 --> 01:44:05,560 You know, if you want to find the sculptures created 1874 01:44:05,560 --> 01:44:09,560 to project Hitler's idea of Germany, you have to go to the storeroom 1875 01:44:09,560 --> 01:44:12,880 of the German Museum of History in Berlin. 1876 01:44:12,880 --> 01:44:16,800 If you want to see Stalin's great images of 1877 01:44:16,800 --> 01:44:19,080 the Soviet state as he envisaged it, 1878 01:44:19,080 --> 01:44:22,200 you have to go to the basement of the New Tretyakov Gallery. 1879 01:44:22,200 --> 01:44:26,440 But here in Rome, because, somehow, they have this tolerant attitude 1880 01:44:26,440 --> 01:44:30,760 that every part of history, it's OK to have it remembered. 1881 01:44:30,760 --> 01:44:33,520 I don't think they celebrate it, but they leave it here, 1882 01:44:33,520 --> 01:44:37,880 maybe almost now for us as a kind of lesson of a mistake 1883 01:44:37,880 --> 01:44:39,440 that shouldn't be made again. 1884 01:44:39,440 --> 01:44:40,920 Salve. 1885 01:44:48,240 --> 01:44:49,720 Do you know, in this helmet, 1886 01:44:49,720 --> 01:44:51,880 you look a little bit like Mussolini? 1887 01:44:51,880 --> 01:44:55,120 Andrew, that's not a very nice thing to say. 1888 01:44:55,120 --> 01:44:59,000 Mussolini's idea of displaying power through architecture 1889 01:44:59,000 --> 01:45:01,040 was not a new concept. 1890 01:45:03,640 --> 01:45:06,480 It has been part of the Roman DNA 1891 01:45:06,480 --> 01:45:10,360 since the Caesars built monuments like the Colosseum. 1892 01:45:13,160 --> 01:45:16,040 This architecture of power reached its peak 1893 01:45:16,040 --> 01:45:18,200 during the age of the Baroque, 1894 01:45:18,200 --> 01:45:21,680 when one man above all others used stone and sculpture 1895 01:45:21,680 --> 01:45:24,720 to express the glory of the Christian church 1896 01:45:24,720 --> 01:45:27,600 in a multitude of breathtaking forms. 1897 01:45:29,120 --> 01:45:32,200 The great 17th-century sculptor, painter and architect 1898 01:45:32,200 --> 01:45:36,320 Gian Lorenzo Bernini was responsible for many great works, 1899 01:45:36,320 --> 01:45:40,000 including the colonnade of St Peter's, 1900 01:45:40,000 --> 01:45:43,640 the beautiful statues which line the Sant'Angelo Bridge, 1901 01:45:43,640 --> 01:45:48,640 and the masterpiece which stands in this square. 1902 01:45:49,720 --> 01:45:51,160 This is Piazza Navona. 1903 01:45:51,160 --> 01:45:54,000 This is one of the most beautiful squares in the world. 1904 01:45:54,000 --> 01:45:57,040 Very unusual shape. It's an unusual shape 1905 01:45:57,040 --> 01:45:59,680 because this was 1906 01:45:59,680 --> 01:46:03,080 Imperatore Domiziano Stadium for running. 1907 01:46:03,080 --> 01:46:05,840 So, the people used to run around here. 1908 01:46:05,840 --> 01:46:07,880 So, we've got the footprint of a stadium, 1909 01:46:07,880 --> 01:46:11,760 but now it's a Baroque square, and in the middle, 1910 01:46:11,760 --> 01:46:14,920 the most ambitious, perhaps the most brilliant 1911 01:46:14,920 --> 01:46:19,520 of Bernini's monuments to the power of the papal states. 1912 01:46:19,520 --> 01:46:21,560 Look at that. It's fantastic, isn't it? 1913 01:46:21,560 --> 01:46:24,560 You know, he very nearly didn't get to design this because 1914 01:46:24,560 --> 01:46:26,960 the Pope who commissioned it, Innocent X... Right. 1915 01:46:26,960 --> 01:46:29,160 ..he didn't like Bernini 1916 01:46:29,160 --> 01:46:31,640 cos Bernini had done a lot of work for the Pope before. 1917 01:46:31,640 --> 01:46:34,680 Bernini played a clever trick, cos he had a female friend - 1918 01:46:34,680 --> 01:46:37,480 an aristocratic friend - who was quite close to the Pope. Mm. 1919 01:46:37,480 --> 01:46:41,120 And she, one day, took a silver model 1920 01:46:41,120 --> 01:46:43,440 that Bernini had made of a fountain - 1921 01:46:43,440 --> 01:46:47,480 an imaginary fountain - and took it into the Pamphili Palace. 1922 01:46:47,480 --> 01:46:50,320 That was the family palace of the Pope. 1923 01:46:50,320 --> 01:46:52,920 And he saw this silver model, 1924 01:46:52,920 --> 01:46:54,880 and he said, "Oh, that's my fountain. 1925 01:46:54,880 --> 01:46:57,320 "That's the fountain I've been dreaming of." 1926 01:46:57,320 --> 01:46:59,920 And she said, "Yes, but it's by Bernini." 1927 01:46:59,920 --> 01:47:04,400 And he said, "Oh, well, Bernini's going to have the job. 1928 01:47:04,400 --> 01:47:07,320 "I said no, but I've got to say yes cos it's so beautiful." 1929 01:47:07,320 --> 01:47:10,520 And this is how it turned out in marble. 1930 01:47:12,320 --> 01:47:15,000 Is that all Carrara marble? All Carrara marble 1931 01:47:15,000 --> 01:47:16,880 with an entire Egyptian obelisk 1932 01:47:16,880 --> 01:47:20,120 pillaged from ancient Egypt by the ancient Romans, 1933 01:47:20,120 --> 01:47:24,040 which was set up on top of Bernini's fountain. 1934 01:47:24,040 --> 01:47:27,440 So, the idea of the fountain is that the whole world - 1935 01:47:27,440 --> 01:47:31,360 symbolised by the great rivers of the four continents - 1936 01:47:31,360 --> 01:47:37,160 the whole world is cowering in awe of this papal erection, 1937 01:47:37,160 --> 01:47:39,640 this symbol of papal power. 1938 01:47:43,000 --> 01:47:45,280 Bernini is such a Roman. 1939 01:47:45,280 --> 01:47:47,400 You know, he's almost got Roman marble 1940 01:47:47,400 --> 01:47:49,600 in his veins instead of blood. 1941 01:47:52,440 --> 01:47:56,200 So, he knows very well that the ancient Roman sculptors 1942 01:47:56,200 --> 01:47:59,720 created these figures of the river gods. 1943 01:47:59,720 --> 01:48:04,360 But in Bernini, everything is about movement, motion, drama, theatre. 1944 01:48:10,280 --> 01:48:13,560 If the Roman river gods of the past have been woken up, 1945 01:48:13,560 --> 01:48:15,800 they've been dynamised and energised. 1946 01:48:15,800 --> 01:48:17,960 Each one has a different pose. 1947 01:48:17,960 --> 01:48:21,200 This one is the River Plate, the New World. 1948 01:48:22,400 --> 01:48:25,560 That's the Ganges. That's India. 1949 01:48:25,560 --> 01:48:29,040 Isn't that wonderful - the palm tree just sort of 1950 01:48:29,040 --> 01:48:32,840 growing up towards the base of the obelisk? 1951 01:48:32,840 --> 01:48:36,040 I mean, it's amazing, how it's made of this marble, 1952 01:48:36,040 --> 01:48:37,720 and the travertino. 1953 01:48:37,720 --> 01:48:41,000 And also this idea of the movement is incredible, isn't it? 1954 01:48:42,880 --> 01:48:45,320 Well, the lion is drinking. That's what it's doing. 1955 01:48:45,320 --> 01:48:47,440 The lion's come to drink. 1956 01:48:47,440 --> 01:48:50,600 So, this is Africa. What animal is that? 1957 01:48:50,600 --> 01:48:52,480 Is it a crocodile, an armadillo? 1958 01:48:52,480 --> 01:48:54,880 What is it? That's where you can see, in the sculpture, 1959 01:48:54,880 --> 01:48:57,120 the limits of his knowledge. He can do a lion... 1960 01:48:57,120 --> 01:48:59,680 Oh, yeah. ..because they had lions in Baroque Rome. 1961 01:48:59,680 --> 01:49:02,040 They had... You know, they knew what they looked like. 1962 01:49:02,040 --> 01:49:06,160 But, yeah, I think it's meant to be an armadillo, 1963 01:49:06,160 --> 01:49:08,880 but it's almost like a dragon in a fairy story. 1964 01:49:11,440 --> 01:49:14,320 This fountain is one of the many works by Bernini 1965 01:49:14,320 --> 01:49:19,160 to have defined his public image as a great artist, 1966 01:49:19,160 --> 01:49:23,440 someone with the title "the man that built Baroque Rome". 1967 01:49:23,440 --> 01:49:25,960 But I want to scratch below the surface 1968 01:49:25,960 --> 01:49:29,920 to see what else Rome can reveal of him. 1969 01:49:29,920 --> 01:49:34,400 Bernini is all over this town, but as a man, 1970 01:49:34,400 --> 01:49:37,120 he remains, to most people, I think, quite mysterious. 1971 01:49:37,120 --> 01:49:40,080 It's as if you can't really touch his personality. 1972 01:49:41,280 --> 01:49:43,920 In fact, he was quite a troubled guy. 1973 01:49:43,920 --> 01:49:47,000 He was a very unsuccessful human being. 1974 01:49:47,000 --> 01:49:48,720 Yeah, you could put it like that. 1975 01:49:48,720 --> 01:49:52,960 He ordered his servant to disfigure his mistress. 1976 01:49:52,960 --> 01:49:55,000 He had a lot of problems with his brother. 1977 01:49:55,000 --> 01:49:58,360 So, at the centre of his life, there's this profound sense of guilt 1978 01:49:58,360 --> 01:50:01,280 and anxiety, but nowhere do you touch it in his work - 1979 01:50:01,280 --> 01:50:04,200 except one place, and that's where I want to take you. 1980 01:50:04,200 --> 01:50:06,080 Here - Spanish Embassy. 1981 01:50:06,080 --> 01:50:09,000 There are two sculptures that give you, if you like, 1982 01:50:09,000 --> 01:50:11,560 his personality, and we have an appointment. 1983 01:50:11,560 --> 01:50:13,000 OK, let's have a look. 1984 01:50:16,840 --> 01:50:18,640 This rarely-seen sculpture 1985 01:50:18,640 --> 01:50:23,160 was commissioned by the Spanish Cardinal Montoya in 1619 1986 01:50:23,160 --> 01:50:27,320 when Bernini was only 20 years old. 1987 01:50:27,320 --> 01:50:30,800 I wanted you to see this cos this is the great Bernini 1988 01:50:30,800 --> 01:50:32,560 that no-one ever sees. 1989 01:50:32,560 --> 01:50:35,600 This is actually a self-portrait. 1990 01:50:35,600 --> 01:50:38,160 This is Bernini's face. 1991 01:50:38,160 --> 01:50:42,400 The vein going down his neck, like pumping blood into the... 1992 01:50:42,400 --> 01:50:44,080 Unbelievable. 1993 01:50:44,080 --> 01:50:48,680 I mean, his understanding of muscle and things is incredible. 1994 01:50:48,680 --> 01:50:53,840 The expression of the nose, the bags under his eyes... 1995 01:50:53,840 --> 01:50:55,960 It's like he's there for real. 1996 01:50:55,960 --> 01:50:58,280 One of Bernini's great gifts as an artist 1997 01:50:58,280 --> 01:51:03,320 would be the ability to turn marble into human expression. 1998 01:51:03,320 --> 01:51:07,680 Even Michelangelo doesn't capture this level of expression. 1999 01:51:07,680 --> 01:51:11,480 I actually can hear him screaming. 2000 01:51:11,480 --> 01:51:15,000 You're right, you can hear. You can hear the cry of anguish! 2001 01:51:16,480 --> 01:51:18,680 Bernini was a violent man. 2002 01:51:18,680 --> 01:51:22,080 When Bernini's brother slept with Bernini's mistress, 2003 01:51:22,080 --> 01:51:23,480 he was so enraged 2004 01:51:23,480 --> 01:51:26,200 that he tried to beat his brother to death with a steel bar. 2005 01:51:26,200 --> 01:51:29,880 His brother only survived by seeking sanctuary in a local church. 2006 01:51:29,880 --> 01:51:32,360 And Bernini then, very brutally, 2007 01:51:32,360 --> 01:51:36,160 ordered one of his servants to go and cut the face, 2008 01:51:36,160 --> 01:51:38,280 with a razor, of his mistress - 2009 01:51:38,280 --> 01:51:40,200 literally to disfigure her 2010 01:51:40,200 --> 01:51:43,560 for having injured his face, his reputation. 2011 01:51:43,560 --> 01:51:46,120 But do you know what it really represents? 2012 01:51:46,120 --> 01:51:49,320 Someone in torment. The soul condemned to damnation. 2013 01:51:49,320 --> 01:51:52,240 Dannati. So, there he is, screaming, 2014 01:51:52,240 --> 01:51:55,400 as he first sees that he's going to experience 2015 01:51:55,400 --> 01:51:59,200 the rest of his existence, all eternity, in the flames of hell. 2016 01:51:59,200 --> 01:52:01,280 But to fully understand this work of art, 2017 01:52:01,280 --> 01:52:05,240 we need to look at its twin - light to its darkness. 2018 01:52:05,240 --> 01:52:09,960 Come on this side, cos on this side, we've got the blessed soul - 2019 01:52:09,960 --> 01:52:12,080 the soul that goes to heaven. 2020 01:52:14,000 --> 01:52:16,240 Bernini placed both of the sculptures 2021 01:52:16,240 --> 01:52:18,200 five metres away from the other one, 2022 01:52:18,200 --> 01:52:21,480 and each had to have a mirror behind it. 2023 01:52:21,480 --> 01:52:23,560 And, you know, when you look down mirrors, 2024 01:52:23,560 --> 01:52:25,640 you get this perspective of infinite time 2025 01:52:25,640 --> 01:52:28,760 that these sculptures occupy. Of course, because you can see... 2026 01:52:28,760 --> 01:52:31,520 So, whether you're damned or whether you're blessed, 2027 01:52:31,520 --> 01:52:34,360 you're going to be looking into infinity always. 2028 01:52:35,440 --> 01:52:38,600 I think maybe you're also meant to think about yourself. 2029 01:52:38,600 --> 01:52:41,400 Where am I going to be at the end of the day? 2030 01:52:41,400 --> 01:52:46,160 Am I going to be down in the flames of hell with him, 2031 01:52:46,160 --> 01:52:51,760 or am I going to be the one with eyes fixed heavenward? 2032 01:53:02,000 --> 01:53:05,360 Bernini has left an indelible mark on Rome. 2033 01:53:07,320 --> 01:53:10,200 But there is another less celebrated body of work 2034 01:53:10,200 --> 01:53:13,360 which is dotted all over the city, 2035 01:53:13,360 --> 01:53:16,840 and before we leave, we want to pay tribute to it. 2036 01:53:18,680 --> 01:53:21,080 You know these little Madonnas that we keep seeing... 2037 01:53:21,080 --> 01:53:23,800 Yeah. ..here, there, everywhere? Everywhere. 2038 01:53:23,800 --> 01:53:26,760 Apparently, there are 2,000 of these Madonnas... 2039 01:53:26,760 --> 01:53:31,760 Yeah? ..here in Rome, and this is one of my favourites. 2040 01:53:31,760 --> 01:53:34,440 The Madonna of the Tunnel is what I call her. 2041 01:53:34,440 --> 01:53:37,800 I think, here, they call her Maria di Roma. 2042 01:53:37,800 --> 01:53:39,760 But isn't that such a wonderful thing? 2043 01:53:39,760 --> 01:53:42,920 A piece of folk art, probably been repainted... 2044 01:53:44,320 --> 01:53:46,160 ..100, 200 times. 2045 01:53:46,160 --> 01:53:50,520 You know, this is a mile away from Annibale Carracci, 2046 01:53:50,520 --> 01:53:54,200 Caravaggio, Michelangelo, but I love it all the more for that. 2047 01:53:54,200 --> 01:53:57,520 It's so Roman. As you say, there's about 2,000 of them around. 2048 01:53:57,520 --> 01:53:59,880 So, that means that you have one Madonna, 2049 01:53:59,880 --> 01:54:02,480 I've got my Madonna, and he's got his Madonna. 2050 01:54:02,480 --> 01:54:05,320 Every apartment block has its own Madonna. That's right. 2051 01:54:05,320 --> 01:54:08,120 You know, there's people, they put this little statue, 2052 01:54:08,120 --> 01:54:11,280 they put a candle, they put the flowers. 2053 01:54:11,280 --> 01:54:13,280 They treat it almost like they might treat 2054 01:54:13,280 --> 01:54:15,760 their mother's grave in the cemetery. 2055 01:54:15,760 --> 01:54:18,520 I love the fact that it's just so straightforward. 2056 01:54:18,520 --> 01:54:21,160 Look at these clumsy little... 2057 01:54:21,160 --> 01:54:23,760 They're like Roman babies in their nappies, 2058 01:54:23,760 --> 01:54:29,920 and they're just happy to be here holding up the Virgin's tunnel. 2059 01:54:29,920 --> 01:54:31,960 And the ceiling is actually, you know... 2060 01:54:31,960 --> 01:54:35,000 As folk art goes, that's kind of pretty brilliant, isn't it? 2061 01:54:35,000 --> 01:54:37,720 It's actually a fresco - real fresco. 2062 01:54:37,720 --> 01:54:41,280 HE CHUCKLES And it's just a pedestrian tunnel. 2063 01:54:41,280 --> 01:54:44,400 How more Roman than that can you be? That is incredible. 2064 01:54:57,280 --> 01:55:03,040 The beauty of this city is immense. There's no beauty like that. 2065 01:55:10,440 --> 01:55:14,840 After delving through the many layers of this great city, 2066 01:55:14,840 --> 01:55:18,640 we are ending our journey at Rome's foundations. 2067 01:55:22,360 --> 01:55:25,880 What a glorious scene. What beautiful light. 2068 01:55:25,880 --> 01:55:28,920 This is incredible. Amazing! 2069 01:55:28,920 --> 01:55:31,200 That's the Colosseum down at the end there. Yeah. 2070 01:55:31,200 --> 01:55:32,680 It's the corner. 2071 01:55:32,680 --> 01:55:35,040 Well, that's 2,000 years of history right there, 2072 01:55:35,040 --> 01:55:37,800 and looking down on it, you know, we're looking down 2073 01:55:37,800 --> 01:55:42,600 on the central site of all Roman archaeology - the Forum. 2074 01:55:42,600 --> 01:55:45,640 And in the past, when I've come here and looked at this view, 2075 01:55:45,640 --> 01:55:50,320 I've always imagined, in my mind, I always wondered, you know, 2076 01:55:50,320 --> 01:55:53,400 where's Emperor Nero, if we could go back in time? 2077 01:55:53,400 --> 01:55:56,480 Where are the senators? Where's Cicero? 2078 01:55:56,480 --> 01:55:59,320 I'm not thinking that now. No. I'm thinking, 2079 01:55:59,320 --> 01:56:02,600 "Hmm, I wonder where the artichoke seller would have been? 2080 01:56:02,600 --> 01:56:05,240 "I wonder where the butcher would have come in? 2081 01:56:05,240 --> 01:56:06,640 "Where's the Jewish cook?" 2082 01:56:06,640 --> 01:56:09,280 "Where is the little Jewish guy that does the recipe?" 2083 01:56:09,280 --> 01:56:12,320 We did the archaeology of a different city this time, didn't we? 2084 01:56:12,320 --> 01:56:15,080 A different kind of archaeology. We did, we did. 2085 01:56:15,080 --> 01:56:19,120 This is super special. Think of all the places that we haven't visited. 2086 01:56:19,120 --> 01:56:21,960 We haven't actually been down there in the Forum, 2087 01:56:21,960 --> 01:56:25,600 we haven't visited the Colosseum, we haven't seen the Sistine Chapel. 2088 01:56:25,600 --> 01:56:28,960 We've done our unpacked thing, where we, you know, 2089 01:56:28,960 --> 01:56:32,040 we stick to the edges, we go to the less well-known places. 2090 01:56:32,040 --> 01:56:34,360 But, you know, do we feel any worse for that? 2091 01:56:34,360 --> 01:56:38,760 Have we missed those other things? I don't think so. 2092 01:56:40,120 --> 01:56:44,040 In order to understand this Rome through history, 2093 01:56:44,040 --> 01:56:47,560 you've got to also understand the life of the normal people, 2094 01:56:47,560 --> 01:56:49,320 not only of the kings and the emperor. 2095 01:56:49,320 --> 01:56:51,040 Yeah, yeah, I agree. Or the popes. 2096 01:56:51,040 --> 01:56:53,360 I mean, maybe that's the truest version of history. 2097 01:56:53,360 --> 01:56:55,400 You know, you try to find the book that is lost 2098 01:56:55,400 --> 01:56:56,800 at the bottom of the library. 2099 01:56:56,800 --> 01:56:58,880 Try to turn the pages that no-one's read.