1 00:00:04,880 --> 00:00:07,460 This is Tibet in the 1930s. 2 00:00:07,460 --> 00:00:13,700 A beautiful isolated land, high up in the mountains of the Himalayas. 3 00:00:13,700 --> 00:00:16,460 Surrounded by the empires of Britain and China, 4 00:00:16,460 --> 00:00:20,200 and yet still almost completely untouched by the outside world. 5 00:00:21,800 --> 00:00:25,400 Tibet is now most famous for its leader, the Dalai Lama, 6 00:00:25,400 --> 00:00:28,960 who was forced into exile nearly 50 years ago. 7 00:00:35,320 --> 00:00:38,840 Oh, father! My father! 8 00:00:46,400 --> 00:00:51,160 Tibet, as we see it in these films, has been completely lost. 9 00:00:51,160 --> 00:00:55,200 This treasure trove of rare colour films shot by British, Chinese 10 00:00:55,200 --> 00:00:58,100 and Tibetan people who lived through these times, 11 00:00:58,100 --> 00:01:01,300 have been preserved by the British Film Institute. 12 00:01:01,300 --> 00:01:06,420 These films allow us a glimpse into a world which has almost entirely disappeared, 13 00:01:06,420 --> 00:01:12,020 to a time before the Dalai Lama and his people lost their country. 14 00:01:23,860 --> 00:01:30,220 It's now impossible to tell the story of Tibet in Tibet, because since the Chinese invasion of 1950, 15 00:01:30,220 --> 00:01:37,860 it's become a criminal offence to even discuss Tibetan independence in territory controlled by China. 16 00:01:37,860 --> 00:01:45,020 So, to tell the tale of the lost world of Tibet, I've had to come to another country. I've come to India. 17 00:01:48,460 --> 00:01:51,860 The Dalai Lama escaped here in 1959, 18 00:01:51,860 --> 00:01:55,540 and, along with the Tibetan government-in-exile, 19 00:01:55,540 --> 00:01:58,300 is based here in the McLeod Gange. 20 00:01:58,300 --> 00:02:02,700 To understand how Tibet was lost, why the Dalai Lama must live 21 00:02:02,700 --> 00:02:07,740 in exile, you have to look back to a time when Tibet was a free nation. 22 00:02:16,260 --> 00:02:21,340 This is Lhasa, the capital of Tibet, in the early 1940s. 23 00:02:21,340 --> 00:02:25,420 This film was of the main shopping street, known as the Barkhor. 24 00:02:26,460 --> 00:02:30,540 Despite being shot in the 20th century, it looks medieval. 25 00:02:30,540 --> 00:02:33,860 Hardly surprising, given Tibet's location. 26 00:02:33,860 --> 00:02:38,740 It was almost impossible to reach so it remained frozen in time. 27 00:02:44,820 --> 00:02:49,060 Namgyal Takla lived in Tibet in the 1940s. 28 00:02:49,060 --> 00:02:53,020 We had the huge mountains surrounding Tibet, 29 00:02:53,020 --> 00:02:57,220 and then we were inside this mountain, isolated. 30 00:02:57,220 --> 00:03:00,180 And we had the big... 31 00:03:00,180 --> 00:03:04,020 Russia, China, Britain around us. 32 00:03:04,020 --> 00:03:07,740 And it was the policy to be... 33 00:03:07,740 --> 00:03:13,900 this country to be kept above a state, sort of a zone where the big powers will not meet. 34 00:03:13,900 --> 00:03:17,460 And it was, we lived in... 35 00:03:17,460 --> 00:03:21,420 In the 20th century we maybe have lived like we were in the 16th century. 36 00:03:21,420 --> 00:03:25,860 Tibetan society was both feudal and deeply religious. 37 00:03:25,860 --> 00:03:30,900 Buddhism had a profound effect in shaping its culture and traditions. 38 00:03:33,980 --> 00:03:38,100 Ruled by a dual system of aristocratic families and Buddhist monks, 39 00:03:38,100 --> 00:03:42,060 the government's main function was to maintain the religious state. 40 00:03:43,940 --> 00:03:48,420 Tibet's feudal structure meant that most of the population lived in poverty. 41 00:03:48,420 --> 00:03:53,220 Any attempts to modernise or invite foreign influence were resisted 42 00:03:53,220 --> 00:03:57,020 by their conservative and profoundly religious outlook. 43 00:04:03,380 --> 00:04:07,300 Life in Lhasa was dominated by a huge number of religious festivals, 44 00:04:07,300 --> 00:04:10,060 which involved most of the city's population. 45 00:04:16,580 --> 00:04:20,380 68 days of the year were taken up with festivals. 46 00:04:23,060 --> 00:04:25,820 Since the Chinese occupation of Tibet, 47 00:04:25,820 --> 00:04:28,820 all of these festivals have been banned. 48 00:04:37,460 --> 00:04:41,060 Even though life for exiled Tibetans has changed enormously 49 00:04:41,060 --> 00:04:43,340 since the Chinese invasion, 50 00:04:43,340 --> 00:04:48,900 Tibetan society is still deeply religious and Buddhism is central to its culture. 51 00:04:51,380 --> 00:04:55,300 Buddhism arrived in Tibet in the 7th century AD, 52 00:04:55,300 --> 00:04:59,660 about 1,000 years after it started in northern India. 53 00:04:59,660 --> 00:05:05,380 Focusing on spiritual development, all Buddhists believe that the road to enlightenment 54 00:05:05,380 --> 00:05:11,180 lies through the practice and development of morality, meditation and wisdom. 55 00:05:14,620 --> 00:05:20,060 At the time these films were made, monks made up 20% of the male Tibetan population. 56 00:05:20,060 --> 00:05:23,380 Every Tibetan family, rich or poor, sent their youngest son 57 00:05:23,380 --> 00:05:27,500 to a monastery as a spiritual and religious duty. 58 00:05:27,500 --> 00:05:30,700 Because monks had a high social status, 59 00:05:30,700 --> 00:05:36,900 poor families gave up their boys in the certain knowledge they would be looked after financially for life. 60 00:05:36,900 --> 00:05:39,980 These boys would just have arrived at the monastery. 61 00:05:39,980 --> 00:05:44,100 Even though in theory they could give up being a monk if they wanted, 62 00:05:44,100 --> 00:05:47,780 they would expect to stay there for the rest of their lives. 63 00:05:47,780 --> 00:05:54,260 The present Dalai Lama, who's the 14th, was found while he was still a small child. 64 00:05:54,260 --> 00:05:58,700 In a tradition that dates back to the 17th century, the Dalai Lama - 65 00:05:58,700 --> 00:06:03,060 or "Ocean of Wisdom" - is both the spiritual and secular leader of Tibet. 66 00:06:06,420 --> 00:06:12,660 All Buddhists believe in rebirth and reincarnation, but for Tibetan Buddhists, 67 00:06:12,660 --> 00:06:17,540 the man they call his Holiness, the Dalai Lama, is very special indeed. 68 00:06:17,540 --> 00:06:20,500 Some see him as a man god. 69 00:06:20,500 --> 00:06:25,700 All believe he's a reincarnation of all 13 previous Dalai Lamas. 70 00:06:25,700 --> 00:06:30,460 And he's a Bodhisattva of compassion, an enlightened being 71 00:06:30,460 --> 00:06:35,860 who has chosen rebirth as a human being so he can be on this world to help others. 72 00:06:39,420 --> 00:06:44,420 When the 13th Dalai Lama died, his reincarnation, a three-year-old boy 73 00:06:44,420 --> 00:06:50,700 called Tenzin Gyatso, was found some 600 miles from the capital in Amdo, 74 00:06:50,700 --> 00:06:54,020 a province in the far North-East. 75 00:06:54,020 --> 00:07:01,860 While the Western world was at war, the family made the long journey to the capital, Lhasa. 76 00:07:01,860 --> 00:07:06,140 The 14th Dalai Lama arrived in October 1940. 77 00:07:06,140 --> 00:07:09,420 By now he was five years old. 78 00:07:09,420 --> 00:07:13,460 He was accompanied by his father and mother and two elder brothers, 79 00:07:13,460 --> 00:07:16,580 Lobsang Samten and Gyalo Thondup. 80 00:07:16,580 --> 00:07:20,060 Oh, father. My father. 81 00:07:22,540 --> 00:07:25,100 Father, yes. 82 00:07:26,100 --> 00:07:27,700 And my mother. 83 00:07:30,860 --> 00:07:34,740 This is elder brother, whom I bully! 84 00:07:39,620 --> 00:07:43,140 My mother, very very gentle. 85 00:07:43,140 --> 00:07:46,180 Almost I never saw her, sort of, 86 00:07:47,740 --> 00:07:52,300 in a mental state of temper, I never saw. Very gentle. 87 00:07:53,420 --> 00:07:55,780 Always smile. 88 00:07:55,780 --> 00:07:58,420 Somebody very nice, very nice woman. 89 00:07:58,420 --> 00:08:01,580 A villager, uneducated. 90 00:08:02,500 --> 00:08:05,580 At the beginning, illiterate. 91 00:08:05,580 --> 00:08:10,020 Later, with her own effort, she can read 92 00:08:10,020 --> 00:08:12,140 some books. 93 00:08:12,140 --> 00:08:15,180 Now here, yes, my father with moustache. 94 00:08:15,180 --> 00:08:19,780 He very much interested in keeping his moustache 95 00:08:19,780 --> 00:08:23,180 very organised way, 96 00:08:23,180 --> 00:08:25,700 not like that. 97 00:08:25,700 --> 00:08:32,740 So he used... Of course our family from time to time eating meat... 98 00:08:34,260 --> 00:08:36,060 ..with bone, 99 00:08:36,060 --> 00:08:38,420 so every time 100 00:08:38,420 --> 00:08:41,220 from the bone, 101 00:08:41,220 --> 00:08:45,340 there's something... What do we call it, marrow or something? 102 00:08:45,340 --> 00:08:48,940 So he used to put it on his moustache, 103 00:08:48,940 --> 00:08:51,460 and do like that. 104 00:08:57,020 --> 00:09:00,820 Although the young Dalai Lama was revered as a god king, 105 00:09:00,820 --> 00:09:05,180 he would not take up his position as head of state until he reached 18. 106 00:09:05,180 --> 00:09:07,820 Years of monastic study lay ahead of him. 107 00:09:13,300 --> 00:09:18,660 Buddhism involves training, transforming the mind 108 00:09:18,660 --> 00:09:24,380 so as to have a full understanding of the true nature of existence 109 00:09:24,380 --> 00:09:29,340 to gain happiness and ultimately to achieve spiritual enlightenment. 110 00:09:38,420 --> 00:09:41,900 Buddhists believe it's only possible to escape suffering, 111 00:09:41,900 --> 00:09:47,780 to find true happiness, by giving up all worldly desires. 112 00:09:47,780 --> 00:09:51,140 And by accepting the transitory nature of life. 113 00:09:51,140 --> 00:09:56,500 All things change, come to an end, don't try to hang on to things. 114 00:09:56,500 --> 00:10:01,860 Also, one has to understand that all one's actions, one's karma, 115 00:10:01,860 --> 00:10:05,060 have consequences for good or for ill. 116 00:10:05,060 --> 00:10:10,780 If you do good things, then you get merit and I suppose hurtle towards your own enlightenment. 117 00:10:10,780 --> 00:10:14,180 But more to the point, do good things and the world benefits. 118 00:10:14,180 --> 00:10:16,780 You put positive energy out into the world. 119 00:10:23,820 --> 00:10:28,780 The events of Buddha's life and teachings were celebrated 120 00:10:28,780 --> 00:10:33,540 through ceremonies and rituals that dominated life in Tibet. 121 00:10:33,540 --> 00:10:38,060 The Monlam Chenmo, or Great Prayer Festival, is a series of events 122 00:10:38,060 --> 00:10:44,100 which commemorates the day when Buddha preached the Dharma, or sacred text, for the first time. 123 00:10:45,940 --> 00:10:51,140 The festival starts when the monks take over the running of Lhasa from the government. 124 00:10:53,740 --> 00:10:58,900 The proctors of the Drepung monastery arrive carrying heavy silver maces 125 00:10:58,900 --> 00:11:02,940 to demand that power is handed over to them by the Kashag or parliament. 126 00:11:05,020 --> 00:11:09,540 Their attendants ceremonially throw down the whips of the city magistrates 127 00:11:09,540 --> 00:11:13,500 and bow to the proctors to formalise the handover. 128 00:11:14,620 --> 00:11:18,860 The proctors are accompanied by the dob-dobs, or monastic police, 129 00:11:18,860 --> 00:11:22,580 huge monks who carried long sticks and whips. 130 00:11:28,980 --> 00:11:33,020 Wearing padded robes, their job is to intimidate and control 131 00:11:33,020 --> 00:11:37,740 the crowd of 20,000 monks who flood the city for the festival. 132 00:11:43,980 --> 00:11:48,820 For the next month, the proctors are able to impose fines on the general public 133 00:11:48,820 --> 00:11:52,820 for having a dirty house, for using bells on a horse or mule, 134 00:11:52,820 --> 00:11:57,500 for women not wearing a headdress, for the wearing of foreign shoes, 135 00:11:57,500 --> 00:12:00,620 or any other disorderly behaviour. 136 00:12:02,260 --> 00:12:04,780 Gifts of money and food were handed out. 137 00:12:04,780 --> 00:12:07,540 While the event was mostly funded by the government, 138 00:12:07,540 --> 00:12:12,740 there were contributions from the British and Chinese trade missions based in Lhasa. 139 00:12:12,740 --> 00:12:16,540 At this time, the Chinese were happy to support religious events. 140 00:12:19,580 --> 00:12:24,860 The Tibetan government was dominated by a group of aristocratic families. 141 00:12:24,860 --> 00:12:28,220 There were about 200 families who made up the civil service 142 00:12:28,220 --> 00:12:31,700 and each of them had to provide a son to serve as an official. 143 00:12:31,700 --> 00:12:39,220 Within the aristocracy, there were 30 higher status families who had the most senior positions. 144 00:12:39,220 --> 00:12:43,180 Namgyal is from one of these families, the Tsarongs. 145 00:12:43,180 --> 00:12:46,420 Oh, that's our house! 146 00:12:46,420 --> 00:12:48,580 The house I was born in. 147 00:12:48,580 --> 00:12:53,020 It's our own house and that's my aunt, Kukula. 148 00:12:53,020 --> 00:12:57,980 And that's my mother. They're really modelling away! 149 00:12:57,980 --> 00:13:00,660 It seems quite strange that they're modelling 150 00:13:00,660 --> 00:13:03,740 because we never even heard of this in Tibet 151 00:13:03,740 --> 00:13:07,820 nor did anybody do that. It seems quite strange. 152 00:13:07,820 --> 00:13:11,300 I'm sure Auntie Kukula must have arranged this. 153 00:13:11,300 --> 00:13:15,340 I think they had a British governess 154 00:13:15,340 --> 00:13:17,660 so she must have taught my mother how to walk. 155 00:13:19,260 --> 00:13:22,820 They're wearing the ceremonial costumes. 156 00:13:25,900 --> 00:13:29,660 Kukula's considered very beautiful and she's really beautiful here, 157 00:13:29,660 --> 00:13:31,820 I must say. And you notice here... 158 00:13:31,820 --> 00:13:35,460 Oh, this is also in our garden. 159 00:13:35,460 --> 00:13:39,260 We had one of the best gardens also in Lhasa 160 00:13:39,260 --> 00:13:43,620 because my grandfather himself, he worked in the garden 161 00:13:43,620 --> 00:13:47,380 and also he made all the family members come and work. 162 00:13:47,380 --> 00:13:49,700 And we... Each child had a tree. 163 00:13:49,700 --> 00:13:53,540 We had to water the tree, fertilise it and we were only allowed 164 00:13:53,540 --> 00:13:57,260 to take the fruit off that tree and no fruit from the other trees. 165 00:13:57,260 --> 00:14:01,140 So we had strawberries and gooseberries, pears, everything. 166 00:14:03,860 --> 00:14:09,860 In this picture you see my aunts together with their grandfather. 167 00:14:12,420 --> 00:14:17,020 They had the same father, Tsarong, but they had three different mothers. 168 00:14:17,020 --> 00:14:21,180 They were three sisters from the original Tsarong family. 169 00:14:21,180 --> 00:14:25,060 This sort of family structure was not unusual in Tibet. 170 00:14:25,060 --> 00:14:27,660 Men could marry a number of women 171 00:14:27,660 --> 00:14:30,700 and even women could marry a number of men. 172 00:14:30,700 --> 00:14:34,980 The reason is to keep the family wealth together. 173 00:14:34,980 --> 00:14:40,100 Married out, the brothers had several wives, there are bound to be troubles 174 00:14:40,100 --> 00:14:43,700 and then they might say "OK, we want to separate the land." 175 00:14:43,700 --> 00:14:47,220 So they usually had brothers marrying one daughter 176 00:14:47,220 --> 00:14:51,940 or the daughters marrying several brothers. It was very common. 177 00:14:53,620 --> 00:14:58,300 Divorce did exist and usually what happened was, 178 00:14:58,300 --> 00:15:01,780 during marriage there's a contract made, and then 179 00:15:01,780 --> 00:15:04,700 usually most of the divorces, 180 00:15:04,700 --> 00:15:08,500 the wife would be well looked after when she leaves the home. 181 00:15:08,500 --> 00:15:12,980 If there's a son, the son stays with the father and the daughter stays with the mother. 182 00:15:12,980 --> 00:15:16,060 There's no custody of children, fighting about it, 183 00:15:16,060 --> 00:15:21,500 automatically the daughter goes to the mother, the son goes to the father. They could also remarry. 184 00:15:21,500 --> 00:15:26,100 We had no problems about divorcees or widows remarrying. 185 00:15:26,100 --> 00:15:30,140 In fact, if they were young, they were encouraged to marry. 186 00:15:32,900 --> 00:15:37,060 This massive civil and monastic bureaucracy within Lhasa 187 00:15:37,060 --> 00:15:40,420 was about to be led spiritually, if not politically, 188 00:15:40,420 --> 00:15:42,700 by the five-year-old Dalai Lama. 189 00:15:45,260 --> 00:15:48,180 Before his official enthronement, 190 00:15:48,180 --> 00:15:52,260 he stayed at the Summer Palace, the Norbulingka. 191 00:15:52,260 --> 00:15:56,580 At first, his family were also allowed to stay there too, 192 00:15:56,580 --> 00:15:58,900 before he began his new life. 193 00:15:58,900 --> 00:16:04,140 Of course, at that time, my mother, my father and my elder brother 194 00:16:04,140 --> 00:16:07,660 remained or stayed with me. 195 00:16:07,660 --> 00:16:09,860 Then Mother and Father... 196 00:16:09,860 --> 00:16:13,140 I think every day they came to see me 197 00:16:13,140 --> 00:16:16,860 and also I visited to their home. 198 00:16:16,860 --> 00:16:22,220 I enjoy my native village's food. 199 00:16:23,860 --> 00:16:30,740 While pilgrims came from all over Tibet, foreign dignitaries also paid homage to the god king. 200 00:16:32,300 --> 00:16:34,940 The British political officer in nearby Sikkim 201 00:16:34,940 --> 00:16:38,660 brought a movie camera with him and managed to get 202 00:16:38,660 --> 00:16:41,620 this first ever moving picture of the Dalai Lama. 203 00:16:43,260 --> 00:16:47,660 Sir Basil Gould, seen here with the white prayer scarf around his neck, 204 00:16:47,660 --> 00:16:51,500 also bought an expensive foreign toy car for the little boy. 205 00:16:51,500 --> 00:16:55,460 But already his status set him apart from other children 206 00:16:55,460 --> 00:17:00,140 and only the older brother, Lobsang, was allowed to test drive it. 207 00:17:00,140 --> 00:17:02,700 This is my brother, elder brother. 208 00:17:02,700 --> 00:17:06,460 So the people felt, 209 00:17:06,460 --> 00:17:09,500 if I handle, it may be too risky, 210 00:17:09,500 --> 00:17:12,780 so my elder brother, let him play. 211 00:17:12,780 --> 00:17:15,820 Sometimes I feel jealousy! 212 00:17:20,940 --> 00:17:22,980 Somebody is in the car. 213 00:17:22,980 --> 00:17:25,780 I wonder if that is my husband. 214 00:17:25,780 --> 00:17:27,820 It's him? 215 00:17:28,900 --> 00:17:35,060 Namgyal married the Dalai Lama's older brother, Lobsang, in 1962. 216 00:17:36,420 --> 00:17:40,180 There's Lobsang on the horse now, I see him. 217 00:17:40,180 --> 00:17:43,940 He's so serious, I can't believe how serious he is there. 218 00:17:43,940 --> 00:17:47,380 He's not a serious person but there he looks so serious. 219 00:17:47,380 --> 00:17:51,620 Now that's a very nice picture, yes, of Lobsang's father. 220 00:17:52,660 --> 00:17:56,020 With his mother going in front of him. 221 00:18:00,700 --> 00:18:06,020 The date for the 14th Dalai Lama's enthronement ceremony at the Potala Palace 222 00:18:06,020 --> 00:18:09,940 was reached according to complex astrological calculations. 223 00:18:09,940 --> 00:18:15,180 The distance between the Norbulingka palace and the Potala is only a few miles. 224 00:18:15,180 --> 00:18:21,780 The Dalai Lama would be accompanied on the short journey by the whole of his monastic and civil retinue. 225 00:18:21,780 --> 00:18:26,380 The 13-storey Potala was originally built in the 7th century. 226 00:18:26,380 --> 00:18:30,780 It's a quarter of a mile long with over 1,000 rooms. 227 00:18:30,780 --> 00:18:34,420 It was a winter residence of the Dalai Lama, 228 00:18:34,420 --> 00:18:37,260 a centre for religious worship and training, 229 00:18:37,260 --> 00:18:41,060 as well as housing Tibet's government and huge civil service. 230 00:18:42,460 --> 00:18:45,620 Tenzin Gyatso was enthroned 231 00:18:45,620 --> 00:18:50,620 as the 14th Dalai Lama on 22nd February 1940. 232 00:18:50,620 --> 00:18:54,340 A life of austerity and strict scholarly pursuit 233 00:18:54,340 --> 00:18:58,020 began for the five-year-old and his brother, Lobsang. 234 00:18:58,020 --> 00:19:01,780 I think, for him, being a normal child and then suddenly 235 00:19:01,780 --> 00:19:06,620 becoming a monk and then coming up to Lhasa with His Holiness... 236 00:19:08,180 --> 00:19:15,460 ..and leaving the parents and then suddenly going into this huge Potala palace and living there 237 00:19:15,460 --> 00:19:19,060 amidst the older monks, who can be quite strict... 238 00:19:19,060 --> 00:19:23,500 And he used to often tell me it was not that pleasant there. 239 00:19:23,500 --> 00:19:28,540 The elder brother stayed with me, we always play. 240 00:19:28,540 --> 00:19:31,700 And sometimes I bully him... 241 00:19:31,700 --> 00:19:36,180 although he's older than me! 242 00:19:36,180 --> 00:19:41,140 He used to talk about His Holiness being quite naughty and mischievous. 243 00:19:41,140 --> 00:19:47,140 And then when he was naughty, his tutors used to frighten Lobsang. 244 00:19:47,140 --> 00:19:52,860 And then he said His Holiness used to get into a lot of very nice games, 245 00:19:52,860 --> 00:19:56,540 running around and then feeding the birds outside on the roof. 246 00:19:56,540 --> 00:19:58,620 That was the greatest fun. 247 00:19:58,620 --> 00:20:01,900 Here were these two little boys with the older... 248 00:20:01,900 --> 00:20:05,500 attendants and huge dark rooms, 249 00:20:05,500 --> 00:20:09,820 and it was very frightening for them. 250 00:20:09,820 --> 00:20:13,380 Coming from a village where you had a lot of running around, freedom, 251 00:20:13,380 --> 00:20:20,140 and then suddenly up there, it must have been quite intimidating for him. 252 00:20:20,140 --> 00:20:23,700 So then I can go once a month. 253 00:20:23,700 --> 00:20:26,380 My mother came. 254 00:20:26,380 --> 00:20:29,540 So when my mother came, I feel very happy. 255 00:20:29,540 --> 00:20:34,860 When my mother departs, I feel a little... 256 00:20:34,860 --> 00:20:37,980 little uncomfortable, little sad. 257 00:20:47,100 --> 00:20:50,900 Tibetan Buddhism differs from other types because at its roots 258 00:20:50,900 --> 00:20:53,940 in the traditions of the earlier Bon religion. 259 00:20:53,940 --> 00:20:58,180 Therefore there's a belief in gods and celestial beings, 260 00:20:58,180 --> 00:21:01,540 but also there are various traditions that involve 261 00:21:01,540 --> 00:21:04,980 all Tibetan society in the practice of Buddhism. 262 00:21:04,980 --> 00:21:10,540 Tibetans believe that their prayers can be given added power 263 00:21:10,540 --> 00:21:14,660 by being conducted by means of a prayer wheel. 264 00:21:14,660 --> 00:21:16,180 Here is a prayer wheel. 265 00:21:17,180 --> 00:21:20,140 BELL CLANGS 266 00:21:20,140 --> 00:21:25,260 Walking round the wheel means that my prayers have the power 267 00:21:25,260 --> 00:21:29,300 of ALL the written prayers inside this wheel, incredible. 268 00:21:29,300 --> 00:21:32,260 Also, the flags have a similar thing. 269 00:21:32,260 --> 00:21:35,660 Prayers through repetition, and the mantras 270 00:21:35,660 --> 00:21:39,540 are used to really gain merit 271 00:21:39,540 --> 00:21:42,740 and help one on one's path to enlightenment. 272 00:21:49,420 --> 00:21:53,380 Prayer wheels can contain up to a mile of written prayers. 273 00:21:53,380 --> 00:21:57,060 They're symbolically recited with every turn. 274 00:21:57,060 --> 00:22:00,740 Pilgrims earn merit and concentrate their minds on the mantras 275 00:22:00,740 --> 00:22:03,180 they're reciting as the wheel turns. 276 00:22:03,180 --> 00:22:05,940 BELL CLANGS 277 00:22:14,860 --> 00:22:20,380 The circular five mile walk which surrounded Lhasa was known as the Linkhor. 278 00:22:21,420 --> 00:22:25,660 On the festival days, pilgrims would start walking early in the morning. 279 00:22:26,780 --> 00:22:30,300 Artemesia, scrub rhododendron and juniper twigs 280 00:22:30,300 --> 00:22:34,020 were burnt and the air would be filled with incense. 281 00:22:36,460 --> 00:22:40,060 A new Linkhor's been created at McLeod Gange. 282 00:22:40,060 --> 00:22:43,300 It surrounds the Dalai Lama's own residence up there. 283 00:22:43,300 --> 00:22:48,100 This replaces the Sacred Path lost at Lhasa. 284 00:22:48,100 --> 00:22:50,220 Pilgrims now walk it. 285 00:22:50,220 --> 00:22:53,340 This is a particularly day, it's a festival day. 286 00:22:53,340 --> 00:22:55,540 These days as I say they just walk, 287 00:22:55,540 --> 00:23:00,060 but in the past pilgrims would prostrate themselves along the route 288 00:23:00,060 --> 00:23:02,500 and that was done rather like this. 289 00:23:02,500 --> 00:23:05,540 One simply stops, says a prayer, 290 00:23:05,540 --> 00:23:10,940 and then one measures one's length on the ground right the way down 291 00:23:10,940 --> 00:23:13,700 to the bottom and up again. 292 00:23:15,300 --> 00:23:19,300 And so one goes right around the path. 293 00:23:19,300 --> 00:23:22,700 I put my feet where my head was and down I go again. 294 00:23:22,700 --> 00:23:28,140 A difficult process but it was to show respect and compassion 295 00:23:28,140 --> 00:23:31,980 for all thinking beings, to remove negative forces, 296 00:23:31,980 --> 00:23:35,540 and to gain merit to help one along one's path to enlightenment. 297 00:23:41,500 --> 00:23:46,380 Jampa Choden was a young nun living in Lhasa at the time. 298 00:23:46,380 --> 00:23:50,780 TRANSLATED: Down here there would be people doing sideways prostrations, 299 00:23:50,780 --> 00:23:53,500 as well as the forward prostrations. 300 00:23:55,180 --> 00:23:58,260 I did a Linkhor circuit. 301 00:23:58,260 --> 00:24:01,140 I took six days in mourning. 302 00:24:01,140 --> 00:24:05,100 I didn't manage to do any sideways prostrations 303 00:24:05,100 --> 00:24:09,460 but I managed to do one circuit doing the forward prostrations. 304 00:24:09,460 --> 00:24:13,780 Here they're making the descent. Sometimes when you're prostrating 305 00:24:13,780 --> 00:24:16,220 here, you'd nearly fall down the hill. 306 00:24:16,220 --> 00:24:19,380 In the afternoon during the midday sun, 307 00:24:19,380 --> 00:24:24,380 you couldn't do the prostrations, you could have a rest. 308 00:24:24,380 --> 00:24:28,220 Friends would bring you meals so you'd have a lunch break. 309 00:24:31,700 --> 00:24:37,460 Jampa Sultran and Tenzin Choni Tara also did the Linkhor circuit. 310 00:24:37,460 --> 00:24:40,700 So as we were talking about this yesterday, 311 00:24:40,700 --> 00:24:43,780 it turns out that we both happen to have done 312 00:24:43,780 --> 00:24:47,100 the full body-length prostrations and made the whole circuit. 313 00:24:47,100 --> 00:24:50,100 It would vary how long it would take to do 314 00:24:50,100 --> 00:24:53,740 the full body-length prostrations, depending on the individual. 315 00:24:53,740 --> 00:24:57,980 The fast ones would do it in three to four days, 316 00:24:57,980 --> 00:25:00,620 others might do it in short stages 317 00:25:00,620 --> 00:25:05,180 so it would take about seven to eight days to do the full circuit. 318 00:25:07,100 --> 00:25:10,500 Wherever you ended the day, you'd leave a mark 319 00:25:10,500 --> 00:25:13,820 and then you'd resume from there the next day. 320 00:25:13,820 --> 00:25:17,980 He said yesterday he did it in four days. 321 00:25:17,980 --> 00:25:20,060 The reason for doing the prostrations 322 00:25:20,060 --> 00:25:26,140 is to accumulate merit and to cleanse yourself of your negativities. 323 00:25:26,140 --> 00:25:28,900 It's an entirely spiritual activity. 324 00:25:33,660 --> 00:25:37,340 On festival days, the Cabinet and senior civil officials 325 00:25:37,340 --> 00:25:39,700 also walked the Linkhor. 326 00:25:39,700 --> 00:25:42,940 But they would get very hot in their heavy ceremonial costumes 327 00:25:42,940 --> 00:25:46,260 and so would stop off at the British mission for a cup of tea. 328 00:25:50,100 --> 00:25:54,660 Historically, the British and Chinese were officially represented in Tibet. 329 00:25:54,660 --> 00:26:00,940 British pressure to allow trading had led to the establishment of a new British trade mission in 1937. 330 00:26:00,940 --> 00:26:06,020 And in the mid 1940s, a Chinese representative arrived in Lhasa. 331 00:26:06,020 --> 00:26:10,740 Relations with the British were cordial, while they were more tense with the Chinese. 332 00:26:12,300 --> 00:26:14,820 Doctor Sum Lyen Chen, 333 00:26:14,820 --> 00:26:19,300 seen here being welcomed by the Tibetan Finance Minister, 334 00:26:19,300 --> 00:26:23,420 was a representative of the Chinese Nationalist government. 335 00:26:23,420 --> 00:26:29,300 At home, China was in the midst of a bloody civil war between the Nationalists and Communists. 336 00:26:32,500 --> 00:26:36,740 Life in Lhasa continued according to ancient custom and practice. 337 00:26:36,740 --> 00:26:42,140 The Dalai Lama lived in the Potala during the winter and the Norbulingka during the summer. 338 00:26:42,140 --> 00:26:48,060 Twice a year, the civil and religious hierarchy accompanied him on his move from palace to palace. 339 00:26:50,900 --> 00:26:53,900 Identified by the peacock-feathered umbrella 340 00:26:53,900 --> 00:26:55,980 which accompanied his sedan chair, 341 00:26:55,980 --> 00:27:00,780 the whole population of Lhasa watched silently for a glimpse of His Holiness. 342 00:27:09,460 --> 00:27:11,820 Oh, that young monk. 343 00:27:11,820 --> 00:27:16,180 I think out of curiosity, looking. 344 00:27:16,180 --> 00:27:20,380 In any case, from my childhood, from that age, 345 00:27:20,380 --> 00:27:24,020 I wanted to smile with people, with public, 346 00:27:24,020 --> 00:27:27,060 so people also they love my smile. 347 00:27:27,060 --> 00:27:33,180 So whenever I look like that, the people express some kind of... 348 00:27:34,740 --> 00:27:37,460 expression of overjoyous. 349 00:27:37,460 --> 00:27:43,260 I think around from 10 years old, around 10, 350 00:27:43,260 --> 00:27:48,700 when I look this, I feel the people consider the reincarnation of Dalai Lama, 351 00:27:48,700 --> 00:27:53,740 but actually that young boy, I think, think only play, how to play. 352 00:27:56,940 --> 00:27:59,460 So there's a big contrast! 353 00:28:07,660 --> 00:28:11,260 The Tibetan year's marked by many religious festivals. 354 00:28:11,260 --> 00:28:18,260 Here, in the Dalai Lama's own monastery, thousands of people gather to celebrate new year. 355 00:28:18,260 --> 00:28:21,940 It takes place in late February, early March, 356 00:28:21,940 --> 00:28:27,020 but sadly far fewer festivals are celebrated now than they were in Tibet. 357 00:28:29,660 --> 00:28:32,060 The King's new year festival 358 00:28:32,060 --> 00:28:38,140 celebrates the Dalai Lama's position as a ruler of both Church and State. 359 00:28:38,140 --> 00:28:43,340 The high officials wear robes, whose design dates back to the 7th century. 360 00:28:43,340 --> 00:28:46,580 Along with ancient ornaments of amber and coral, 361 00:28:46,580 --> 00:28:51,300 which have been traded along the Silk Route and had originally come from the Mediterranean. 362 00:28:52,820 --> 00:28:55,620 The turquoise charm boxes around their necks 363 00:28:55,620 --> 00:28:58,340 and the golden bar encased in turquoise, 364 00:28:58,340 --> 00:29:02,220 which reaches their waist, is so heavy it must be carried. 365 00:29:03,980 --> 00:29:08,780 The ordinary people of Lhasa gather at the foot of the Potala 366 00:29:08,780 --> 00:29:10,980 to watch the sky dancing, 367 00:29:10,980 --> 00:29:14,500 a spectacle in which a man scales a rope up to a tall wooden mast, 368 00:29:14,500 --> 00:29:20,340 stands precariously on a small platform and then spins himself around. 369 00:29:20,340 --> 00:29:25,220 The performance traditionally, a man from one of the small villages in the region of Tsang 370 00:29:25,220 --> 00:29:29,860 is done in retribution for their resistance to the rule of the Fifth Dalai Lama. 371 00:29:29,860 --> 00:29:33,340 There's a saying in Tsang, mothers don't die from illnesses 372 00:29:33,340 --> 00:29:37,060 but from worry that their sons might be taken for the sky dance. 373 00:29:42,420 --> 00:29:48,140 The casting out of the votive offering was one of the biggest and most elaborate of the celebrations. 374 00:29:48,140 --> 00:29:53,380 This ceremonial military manoeuvre was known as the coiling snake. 375 00:29:53,380 --> 00:29:58,420 With civil officials acting as marshals, 500 infantry in chainmail, 376 00:29:58,420 --> 00:30:03,100 move in a zigzag formation, while another formation circles it. 377 00:30:03,100 --> 00:30:08,580 Seemingly chaotic, it was highly organised, and the troops rehearsed for months to perfect it. 378 00:30:20,180 --> 00:30:24,220 Hundreds of monks arrive, carrying green drums and cymbals. 379 00:30:32,420 --> 00:30:35,820 Next, the Torma are brought out - tall sculptures 380 00:30:35,820 --> 00:30:40,380 which have a grinning skull on top, and represent all evil spirits. 381 00:30:42,980 --> 00:30:46,540 Wearing an ornate headdress, the Nechung Oracle, 382 00:30:46,540 --> 00:30:49,620 a monk who is chosen for his psychic powers, 383 00:30:49,620 --> 00:30:52,180 appears in a state of possession. 384 00:30:52,180 --> 00:30:56,660 The Oracle's helmet and costume are so heavy that the medium can hardly walk in them, 385 00:30:56,660 --> 00:30:58,900 at least not in a trance-like state. 386 00:30:58,900 --> 00:31:02,580 He races around chaotically, chasing the Tormas into a clearing, 387 00:31:02,580 --> 00:31:07,140 accompanied by hundreds of monks and most of the population of Lhasa. 388 00:31:08,940 --> 00:31:12,380 When the Oracle arrives, he shoots a burning arrow into bonfires 389 00:31:12,380 --> 00:31:16,420 which contain the evil spirits, and they're set ablaze. 390 00:31:26,980 --> 00:31:32,340 The whole of Lhasa was distracted by festivals or ceremonies for nearly a quarter of the year. 391 00:31:32,340 --> 00:31:35,220 One of the Dalai Lama's favourite events 392 00:31:35,220 --> 00:31:39,580 was the annual opera festival, held at the Norbulingka Palace. 393 00:31:39,580 --> 00:31:47,180 During summer, in Norbulingka, I think around July, August, on summer festival, 394 00:31:47,180 --> 00:31:50,020 the folk dance, 395 00:31:50,020 --> 00:31:53,460 and also, every day, 396 00:31:53,460 --> 00:31:55,700 the military performance. 397 00:31:55,700 --> 00:32:00,460 So, like another child, I love the military performance. 398 00:32:02,580 --> 00:32:05,980 They well-organised, they quite smart, like that. 399 00:32:11,140 --> 00:32:14,340 Opera, Tibetan opera, 400 00:32:14,340 --> 00:32:21,020 is a play. So, during that period, I have no lesson - 401 00:32:21,020 --> 00:32:23,100 free, holiday - 402 00:32:23,100 --> 00:32:25,740 then my mother 403 00:32:25,740 --> 00:32:31,060 often come, because during that period, 404 00:32:31,060 --> 00:32:36,220 my family stay in residence in Norbulingka. 405 00:32:36,220 --> 00:32:39,660 They stay there a few days. 406 00:32:39,660 --> 00:32:42,060 So, I very happy. 407 00:32:47,460 --> 00:32:49,900 Then, after five days, festival finish. 408 00:32:49,900 --> 00:32:52,940 Then, next day, my lessons started, 409 00:32:54,620 --> 00:32:57,900 and same time, this is the fifth day evening, my mother depart. 410 00:32:57,900 --> 00:33:01,100 So, I feel very...very sad. 411 00:33:02,660 --> 00:33:07,260 That's...the child's sort of experience, like that. 412 00:33:08,860 --> 00:33:14,660 Many of the religious festivals had an additional civil or governmental element. 413 00:33:14,660 --> 00:33:16,300 At this review, 414 00:33:16,300 --> 00:33:20,220 the Tibetan cavalry assemble in front of the Cabinet and government officials. 415 00:33:20,220 --> 00:33:22,620 The cavalry wears chainmail, 416 00:33:22,620 --> 00:33:27,780 steel breastplates and helmets with peacock feathers on them. 417 00:33:27,780 --> 00:33:31,580 The standard bearers wear special helmets which have "Allah" 418 00:33:31,580 --> 00:33:37,700 inscribed on them in gold, thought to date back to 8th century contact with Arabs. 419 00:33:37,700 --> 00:33:40,380 They carry tall lances wrapped in painted banners, 420 00:33:40,380 --> 00:33:45,020 said to have been given by the army of Genghis Khan's grandson. 421 00:33:45,020 --> 00:33:49,180 The Cabinet wears ornate robes, their fur-trimmed hats 422 00:33:49,180 --> 00:33:54,100 have silk crowns with ornaments on top, of coral, turquoise and gold. 423 00:33:56,660 --> 00:34:02,740 A government official, followed by four junior officials, makes his report for Cabinet, 424 00:34:02,740 --> 00:34:06,260 announcing the number of men and horses. 425 00:34:07,820 --> 00:34:12,260 The cavalry then ride past the Cabinet in ceremonial style. 426 00:34:16,260 --> 00:34:20,580 For the commoners in Lhasa, participation in some festival events 427 00:34:20,580 --> 00:34:22,700 was not really a matter of choice. 428 00:34:22,700 --> 00:34:24,820 For the wrestling and weightlifting, 429 00:34:24,820 --> 00:34:28,500 the contestants were all from the Dalai Lama's personal bodyguards, 430 00:34:28,500 --> 00:34:31,500 though it's hard to believe, given their size and stature. 431 00:34:34,980 --> 00:34:39,340 The wrestling was a particularly unpopular duty, as they had to wear loincloths. 432 00:34:39,340 --> 00:34:43,460 It was deemed to be shameful appearing semi-naked in public, 433 00:34:43,460 --> 00:34:45,180 especially in front of your superiors. 434 00:34:48,340 --> 00:34:53,980 For most, shyness meant they were covered up quickly, but some seemed to rather enjoy it. 435 00:34:55,620 --> 00:34:59,900 At the same time as the horse race is being conducted around the city, 436 00:34:59,900 --> 00:35:01,780 there's also a foot race. 437 00:35:01,780 --> 00:35:07,420 A motley group of men run in brightly-coloured outfits, somewhat unenthusiastically. 438 00:35:07,420 --> 00:35:11,700 The race is compulsory, and it's performed as a duty to their landlords. 439 00:35:19,260 --> 00:35:22,380 For the Tibetan aristocrats, there are lots of social events 440 00:35:22,380 --> 00:35:25,460 to attend at the British Mission, or Dekyi Lingka. 441 00:35:27,020 --> 00:35:31,060 In true colonial style, tea was served, and even darts were played. 442 00:35:38,260 --> 00:35:42,820 But the British Mission closed when India gained independence in 1947. 443 00:35:45,180 --> 00:35:47,980 Tibet still had no status as an independent nation, 444 00:35:47,980 --> 00:35:50,300 and was not recognised internationally. 445 00:35:50,300 --> 00:35:54,620 The civil war between the Communists and nationalists in China continued. 446 00:35:54,620 --> 00:36:00,100 The Tibetan government realised that if the Communists won, they would not tolerate their religion. 447 00:36:00,100 --> 00:36:03,300 However, they did not want to be seen to be taking sides, 448 00:36:03,300 --> 00:36:06,940 so they politely asked the Nationalist Chinese to leave Tibet. 449 00:36:06,940 --> 00:36:10,460 They were sent off with the utmost courtesy, 450 00:36:10,460 --> 00:36:14,700 with parties and free transport to the Indian border. 451 00:36:14,700 --> 00:36:20,020 The small Tibetan army was reorganised, new regiments were formed, and they were re-equipped. 452 00:36:21,580 --> 00:36:24,300 In 1949, the Chinese civil war ended, 453 00:36:24,300 --> 00:36:27,300 and the People's Republic of China was established, 454 00:36:27,300 --> 00:36:29,460 under Mao Tse-Tung's chairmanship. 455 00:36:31,060 --> 00:36:35,860 One of their first objectives was to bring Tibet back into what they called the "motherland". 456 00:36:35,860 --> 00:36:38,220 On 6th October 1950, 457 00:36:38,220 --> 00:36:43,700 40,000 Chinese soldiers of the People's Liberation Army invaded Tibet. 458 00:36:43,700 --> 00:36:47,980 And the small Tibetan army was quickly overwhelmed 459 00:36:47,980 --> 00:36:50,260 and forced to surrender. 460 00:36:50,260 --> 00:36:56,220 The issue of the invasion was raised with the United Nations, but nothing was done. 461 00:36:56,220 --> 00:37:02,180 Indeed, the international community did shamefully little to help Tibet in its plight. 462 00:37:02,180 --> 00:37:07,460 So, the Tibetans had nothing to do but to negotiate with the Chinese. 463 00:37:07,460 --> 00:37:11,100 To do this, they needed a sole ruler, and so Dalai Lama, 464 00:37:11,100 --> 00:37:15,140 still with two years of training ahead of him, 465 00:37:15,140 --> 00:37:19,100 was rapidly given the power to rule in Tibet. 466 00:37:19,100 --> 00:37:24,340 Incredible this, a 16-year-old boy was suddenly made... 467 00:37:24,340 --> 00:37:28,460 the temporal and spiritual ruler of Tibet. 468 00:37:30,860 --> 00:37:34,660 The teenager acted quickly, and sent delegations to Britain and America, 469 00:37:34,660 --> 00:37:38,300 but it was the height of the Cold War, and they refused to help. 470 00:37:40,180 --> 00:37:43,580 The Chinese, however, were happy to talk. 471 00:37:43,580 --> 00:37:46,540 Fearful that Chinese troops would invade Lhasa, 472 00:37:46,540 --> 00:37:51,580 the Dalai Lama instructed Tibetan officials in Beijing to begin negotiations. 473 00:37:51,580 --> 00:37:56,940 The 17-point Agreement, in which Tibet was defined as being part of the Chinese motherland, 474 00:37:56,940 --> 00:38:00,260 was signed in Beijing without the Dalai Lama's consent. 475 00:38:00,260 --> 00:38:03,820 The "reunification", as the Chinese called it, was completed 476 00:38:03,820 --> 00:38:08,180 when the invading forces reached Lhasa in October 1951, 477 00:38:08,180 --> 00:38:10,300 and Tibet was conquered. 478 00:38:13,420 --> 00:38:15,980 Rather than resist Chinese rule, 479 00:38:15,980 --> 00:38:19,380 the Dalai Lama attempted to make the 17-point Agreement work. 480 00:38:19,380 --> 00:38:24,700 As it was meant to allow the Tibetan government to continue running its own country, 481 00:38:24,700 --> 00:38:28,860 for the next three years, he introduced social and land reforms, 482 00:38:28,860 --> 00:38:31,940 attempting to propel Tibet into the 20th century. 483 00:38:36,260 --> 00:38:42,100 In 1954, Dalai Lama received an invitation from the Chinese to go to Beijing. 484 00:38:42,100 --> 00:38:45,740 Most Tibetans were against the idea, fearing for his safety. 485 00:38:45,740 --> 00:38:49,260 The Dalai Lama, however, was determined to go. 486 00:38:49,260 --> 00:38:53,580 He saw it as an opportunity to be able to talk to Chairman Mao in person. 487 00:38:53,580 --> 00:38:56,140 Then, I felt, not only me, 488 00:38:56,140 --> 00:39:00,580 but some officials, some high officials, er... 489 00:39:00,580 --> 00:39:05,220 now, two opinions - one opinion - 490 00:39:05,220 --> 00:39:07,740 now, this is high time, 491 00:39:07,740 --> 00:39:13,300 should go to Beijing, and meet high officials, high leaders. 492 00:39:14,820 --> 00:39:16,580 Then some, 493 00:39:16,580 --> 00:39:20,100 very much reluctant, very much against, 494 00:39:20,100 --> 00:39:22,900 I think, out of fear. 495 00:39:22,900 --> 00:39:26,060 My own opinion is - 496 00:39:26,060 --> 00:39:28,500 now better go there. 497 00:39:33,060 --> 00:39:36,100 Now, this is the...actually, 498 00:39:36,100 --> 00:39:41,340 this is departing Lhasa to China, I think, this one. 499 00:39:41,340 --> 00:39:45,700 You know, I like missions, or these modern things, 500 00:39:45,700 --> 00:39:48,380 so I love to visit China. 501 00:39:48,380 --> 00:39:52,500 But at the same time, not like just tourist, 502 00:39:52,500 --> 00:39:55,740 also have some responsibility. 503 00:39:55,740 --> 00:40:00,260 So, not very certain, so, all kinds of mixture feeling. 504 00:40:01,860 --> 00:40:08,140 Some hopes, some doubts, some fears, some, er...what say, 505 00:40:08,140 --> 00:40:10,260 undecisive, like that. 506 00:40:10,260 --> 00:40:13,020 And also some excitement. 507 00:40:13,020 --> 00:40:17,620 The Dalai Lama attended the first National Chinese People's Congress, 508 00:40:17,620 --> 00:40:19,940 which included 10 seats for the Tibetan delegation. 509 00:40:19,940 --> 00:40:23,340 He was impressed by Mao, and felt a great affinity 510 00:40:23,340 --> 00:40:27,220 with many of the egalitarian principles of communism. 511 00:40:27,220 --> 00:40:30,580 However, at their last meeting, Mao wasted no time 512 00:40:30,580 --> 00:40:34,580 in giving his true opinion of Tibet and its future under Chinese rule. 513 00:40:34,580 --> 00:40:38,900 As the Dalai Lama left, Mao turned to him and said, "Religion is poison." 514 00:40:41,980 --> 00:40:45,180 The Dalai Lama returned home. 515 00:40:45,180 --> 00:40:48,460 News reached him that the Chinese authorities in eastern Tibet 516 00:40:48,460 --> 00:40:51,780 were confiscating lands belonging to monasteries 517 00:40:51,780 --> 00:40:54,700 and redistributing them amongst themselves. 518 00:40:54,700 --> 00:40:56,500 The situation deteriorated. 519 00:40:56,500 --> 00:40:59,660 Fighting broke out between the Chinese army 520 00:40:59,660 --> 00:41:04,740 and Tibetan freedom fighters, and refugees began pouring into Lhasa. 521 00:41:04,740 --> 00:41:11,300 In the midst of this tense atmosphere, the Dalai Lama still had to take his final monastic exams, 522 00:41:11,300 --> 00:41:14,460 the main focus of which were public debates. 523 00:41:21,340 --> 00:41:25,900 Debate is the rigorous discussion of Buddhist teachings. 524 00:41:25,900 --> 00:41:28,020 Everything is challenged. 525 00:41:30,540 --> 00:41:35,020 Debate is an ancient tradition within Buddhism, which is still practised today - 526 00:41:35,020 --> 00:41:40,740 although the monks - and now nuns - are somewhat more vigorous in their style than they were in the 1950s. 527 00:41:51,980 --> 00:41:57,060 These monks are arguing over their personal interpretation of Buddhist texts. 528 00:41:57,060 --> 00:42:02,780 The skill is in arguing and using logic in your own analysis, to back up your points. 529 00:42:02,780 --> 00:42:05,340 They are punctuated with claps to the hand. 530 00:42:05,340 --> 00:42:07,780 The respondent must then reply. 531 00:42:16,780 --> 00:42:19,500 The culmination of the Dalai Lama's 18 years of study 532 00:42:19,500 --> 00:42:23,580 was an examination for a doctorate in Buddhist philosophy. 533 00:42:23,580 --> 00:42:27,300 It started with debates in three of the largest monasteries in Tibet. 534 00:42:35,740 --> 00:42:40,020 Drepung Monastery had 10,000 resident monks. 535 00:42:40,020 --> 00:42:43,540 8,000 of them were squeezed into the square to see the Dalai Lama, 536 00:42:43,540 --> 00:42:47,100 as he arrived with his retinue to take his first exam. 537 00:42:53,020 --> 00:42:57,020 The monastery owned local estates, and had some 20,000 tied peasants 538 00:42:57,020 --> 00:43:00,340 who worked the land and paid them taxes. 539 00:43:00,340 --> 00:43:06,300 The revenue paid for the prayer sessions and festivals which dominated monastic life. 540 00:43:06,300 --> 00:43:12,220 Feeding the monks for big events, like the examinations, was a huge if somewhat rushed process. 541 00:43:16,060 --> 00:43:19,220 The young monks run down from the cookhouse, 542 00:43:19,220 --> 00:43:23,300 carrying huge tubs of sampa for the brethren who are sitting in the square. 543 00:43:25,660 --> 00:43:30,940 Sampa is roasted barley flour, mixed with yak butter, tea or water, to make dough. 544 00:43:42,020 --> 00:43:47,900 To celebrate His Holiness's presence, the monks are also given prayer scarves, tea and money. 545 00:43:47,900 --> 00:43:51,420 This was the first time that the Dalai Lama 546 00:43:51,420 --> 00:43:56,580 would have debated in public, and with the most experienced abbots in the monastery. 547 00:43:58,380 --> 00:44:02,300 Now this, about top scholar, Mongolian. 548 00:44:02,300 --> 00:44:05,580 And also, he...when he... 549 00:44:05,580 --> 00:44:09,820 he ask question, very rapidly... 550 00:44:09,820 --> 00:44:13,580 HE SPEAKS TIBETAN RAPIDLY 551 00:44:13,580 --> 00:44:16,780 So, bit more...nervous. 552 00:44:18,740 --> 00:44:22,060 So, I... 553 00:44:22,060 --> 00:44:28,100 A little...opportunity to think how to trick to him! 554 00:44:30,260 --> 00:44:33,620 Our top scholar is very rapidly, putting question, question...! 555 00:44:33,620 --> 00:44:36,980 Then no time! How to pretend, 556 00:44:36,980 --> 00:44:39,660 or how to... 557 00:44:39,660 --> 00:44:42,060 defend, like that. 558 00:44:42,060 --> 00:44:44,820 So, now, this is my turn, debate... 559 00:44:52,140 --> 00:44:57,460 The next exam was at Sera monastery, the whole of the Dalai Lama's government travelled with him, 560 00:44:57,460 --> 00:45:00,980 allowing him to consult with them about the growing tension in Lhasa. 561 00:45:10,620 --> 00:45:14,460 At the same time, he had to prepare for the next series of debates, 562 00:45:14,460 --> 00:45:17,500 but the abbots each had their own individual style of arguing. 563 00:45:21,020 --> 00:45:23,060 In Sera Monastery... 564 00:45:24,460 --> 00:45:27,660 You see, when you debate, 565 00:45:27,660 --> 00:45:29,700 with the opponent, 566 00:45:29,700 --> 00:45:31,500 good scholar, 567 00:45:31,500 --> 00:45:36,140 then their answer is something logical, or something... 568 00:45:36,140 --> 00:45:37,620 You see, they... 569 00:45:39,500 --> 00:45:42,540 Valid, meaningful. 570 00:45:42,540 --> 00:45:48,140 In Sera Monastery, one abbot - not that much scholar, not that top, 571 00:45:48,140 --> 00:45:53,620 so, you see, from my side, the preparation, if answer come this way, 572 00:45:53,620 --> 00:45:56,020 yes, this is the way to argue. 573 00:45:56,020 --> 00:45:57,620 If this way... 574 00:45:57,620 --> 00:46:03,620 if answers come this kind of answer, then yes, already prepared. 575 00:46:03,620 --> 00:46:08,540 And his answer, unexpected answer! 576 00:46:08,540 --> 00:46:13,860 So then, my tutor noticed that, and he very kindly - 577 00:46:13,860 --> 00:46:16,220 stop, now finish, OK. 578 00:46:16,220 --> 00:46:19,340 That's tremendous relief! HE GIGGLES 579 00:46:23,420 --> 00:46:27,700 The last of the preliminary exams was some distance from Lhasa, 580 00:46:27,700 --> 00:46:29,900 at Ganden monastery. 581 00:46:29,900 --> 00:46:35,180 Ironically, the examinations at Ganden proved to be a brief period of respite for Dalai Lama. 582 00:46:37,980 --> 00:46:42,660 Thousands more refugees had fled the fighting in the east and arrived in Lhasa, 583 00:46:42,660 --> 00:46:46,380 a huge number were now camped around the outskirts of the city. 584 00:46:46,380 --> 00:46:52,260 Tensions with the occupying Chinese, who'd been in Tibet for about nine years, were high. 585 00:46:52,260 --> 00:46:57,540 There were food shortages in Lhasa, and rumours about massacres in eastern Tibet, 586 00:46:57,540 --> 00:47:00,620 and also rumours about the destruction of sacred sites. 587 00:47:00,620 --> 00:47:05,100 Meanwhile, the Dalai Lama still had his final exam to take. 588 00:47:07,220 --> 00:47:09,620 The Dalai Lama returned to Lhasa, 589 00:47:09,620 --> 00:47:12,820 and continued to prepare for his final exam. 590 00:47:12,820 --> 00:47:17,660 Amidst increasingly disturbing reports of Chinese atrocities, 591 00:47:17,660 --> 00:47:21,020 he attempted to concentrate on his studies. 592 00:47:21,020 --> 00:47:25,940 He took solace in Buddhist teachings, that one's enemy is one's greatest teacher, 593 00:47:25,940 --> 00:47:29,500 and to have compassion for all sentient beings. 594 00:47:29,500 --> 00:47:34,980 The final exam was arranged to take place at the same time as the new year festival. 595 00:47:34,980 --> 00:47:41,300 There were 30,000 monks in the city, and pilgrims were arriving from all over Tibet. 596 00:47:41,300 --> 00:47:43,500 The Jokhang Temple was full to bursting. 597 00:47:43,500 --> 00:47:49,300 The Cabinet, civil officials and all the senior Abbots and monks were present. 598 00:47:49,300 --> 00:47:52,140 As a junior monk official, 599 00:47:52,140 --> 00:47:55,340 this man was in the audience. 600 00:47:55,340 --> 00:48:02,100 TRANSLATION: On the one hand, the ordinary people and the aristocrats were all dressed up in their finest. 601 00:48:02,100 --> 00:48:06,780 On the other, right next door, the Chinese were making elaborate military preparations, 602 00:48:06,780 --> 00:48:11,660 with soldiers carrying rifles as if they might attack at any moment. 603 00:48:11,660 --> 00:48:17,260 Gun emplacements were built, there were Chinese carrying rifles, patrolling the rooftops opposite. 604 00:48:17,260 --> 00:48:20,620 Everyone, government officials, the clergy, the people, 605 00:48:20,620 --> 00:48:23,420 were there for the religious function of the 13th, 606 00:48:24,380 --> 00:48:29,180 but they saw clearly the Chinese soldiers walking around on the rooftops. 607 00:48:30,780 --> 00:48:36,820 It was unbelievable that these two extraordinary situations could be happening at the same time. 608 00:48:36,820 --> 00:48:41,900 The position between the Chinese and the Tibetans was becoming irreconcilable. 609 00:48:46,540 --> 00:48:53,460 DALAI LAMA: One aspect, the whole atmosphere is so tense. 610 00:48:53,460 --> 00:48:58,340 Many people actually felt whether this big gathering 611 00:48:58,340 --> 00:49:02,420 can take place or not, because so much tense, 612 00:49:02,420 --> 00:49:07,340 but then, everything go very smoothly. So, everybody very happy. 613 00:49:10,100 --> 00:49:13,700 The Dalai Lama returned to the Norbulingka with his full retinue, 614 00:49:13,700 --> 00:49:17,180 but this time, he was accompanied by armed guards. 615 00:49:17,180 --> 00:49:24,180 Little did he know that this 1000-year-old ceremonial procession through Lhasa would be his last. 616 00:49:24,180 --> 00:49:27,780 The Chinese Governor-General of Tibet invited the Dalai Lama 617 00:49:27,780 --> 00:49:31,220 to see a dance troupe at the Chinese military headquarters. 618 00:49:31,220 --> 00:49:34,660 In the name of dispensing with formality, the Chinese requested 619 00:49:34,660 --> 00:49:37,700 that he attend with unarmed bodyguards. 620 00:49:37,700 --> 00:49:41,300 Worried that a refusal would worsen the fragile situation, 621 00:49:41,300 --> 00:49:45,380 the Dalai Lama accepted, but the news soon spread. 622 00:49:45,380 --> 00:49:50,660 Thousands of people surrounded the palace, demanding that the Dalai Lama did not go. 623 00:49:50,660 --> 00:49:55,780 Intelligence reports reached him that the Chinese were about to bomb the Palace. 624 00:49:55,780 --> 00:50:02,100 Convinced that if he left, the people would be saved, the Dalai Lama decided he had to leave. 625 00:50:02,100 --> 00:50:06,540 Of course, I think, topmost 626 00:50:06,540 --> 00:50:10,660 in my mind is fear, sadness. 627 00:50:12,260 --> 00:50:15,940 And almost like the feeling of desperate. 628 00:50:20,020 --> 00:50:22,580 And also... 629 00:50:22,580 --> 00:50:26,100 leaving some of my close friends. 630 00:50:27,620 --> 00:50:31,740 Sweepers, or some monks 631 00:50:31,740 --> 00:50:36,900 who look after temples or libraries in Norbulingka. 632 00:50:36,900 --> 00:50:38,380 And including my dog. 633 00:50:40,740 --> 00:50:43,420 So, at a human level, 634 00:50:43,420 --> 00:50:46,300 very sad. 635 00:50:46,300 --> 00:50:49,060 One factor. 636 00:50:49,060 --> 00:50:52,900 Then, also, several thousand Tibetan, 637 00:50:52,900 --> 00:51:00,340 suppose different Norbulingka, all gathered there. 638 00:51:00,340 --> 00:51:02,420 So, that also additional worry. 639 00:51:02,420 --> 00:51:05,140 If something happen, 640 00:51:05,140 --> 00:51:08,980 then thousands people will die. 641 00:51:08,980 --> 00:51:12,860 Then also, er, my own life, 642 00:51:12,860 --> 00:51:20,340 there is danger, one person's future, but the future of Tibet also is related. 643 00:51:20,340 --> 00:51:22,860 So, therefore, 644 00:51:22,860 --> 00:51:24,580 anxiety, 645 00:51:24,580 --> 00:51:27,180 fear, 646 00:51:27,180 --> 00:51:31,620 a little doubt, hesitation, and sadness, 647 00:51:31,620 --> 00:51:34,860 all mixed. Very much mixed. 648 00:51:37,140 --> 00:51:43,100 That night, the Dalai Lama escaped from the Norbulingka, disguised as a Tibetan soldier. 649 00:51:45,380 --> 00:51:50,420 Then next day, reach southern Tibet, 650 00:51:50,420 --> 00:51:52,740 then fear of my life, 651 00:51:52,740 --> 00:51:55,620 then no longer. 652 00:51:55,620 --> 00:51:59,300 Then, we have no hesitation 653 00:51:59,300 --> 00:52:05,540 to criticise about our Chinese brothers and sisters! 654 00:52:05,540 --> 00:52:09,420 While in Lhasa...uh... 655 00:52:09,420 --> 00:52:16,300 although sometimes we criticise, but from one corner of our mind, er, we... 656 00:52:16,300 --> 00:52:19,620 Oh, be careful, be careful. 657 00:52:19,620 --> 00:52:22,260 That kind of situation. 658 00:52:22,260 --> 00:52:25,620 Then, as soon as reach southern Tibet, 659 00:52:25,620 --> 00:52:29,460 free from Chinese forces, 660 00:52:29,460 --> 00:52:32,380 we get some... 661 00:52:32,380 --> 00:52:36,140 Some extraordinary feeling. Now free! 662 00:52:36,140 --> 00:52:38,060 Freedom! 663 00:52:40,060 --> 00:52:44,300 Two weeks later, after an arduous journey through the Himalayas, 664 00:52:44,300 --> 00:52:47,300 the Dalai Lama reached safety in northern India. 665 00:52:50,820 --> 00:52:54,580 TRANSLATION: That morning, around dawn, 666 00:52:54,580 --> 00:52:59,740 they began shelling the Norbulingka. At around 9 or 10, 667 00:52:59,740 --> 00:53:05,340 I went to the hill, to the defensive position I had been assigned to monitor. 668 00:53:05,340 --> 00:53:11,700 When I looked, I saw there was a huge fire in the eastern wing. 669 00:53:11,700 --> 00:53:15,340 Near the accounts section, a huge fire. 670 00:53:19,100 --> 00:53:24,020 TRANSLATION: The bombardment started from the bottom of the hills upwards. 671 00:53:24,020 --> 00:53:29,220 That was followed by the rat-a-ta-tat of machine gun fire. It was relentless. 672 00:53:33,420 --> 00:53:39,420 In any case, eventually, everywhere was taken over, and completely looted. 673 00:53:39,420 --> 00:53:44,820 Everything except for a few chapels, it was left like an empty shell. 674 00:53:44,820 --> 00:53:48,220 Everything else was destroyed. 675 00:53:49,300 --> 00:53:52,580 Then, the relentless bombardment began. 676 00:53:52,580 --> 00:53:57,140 In the dust and smoke, I saw people and horses falling. 677 00:53:57,140 --> 00:54:00,460 The intense bombardment went on for about an hour or two. 678 00:54:00,460 --> 00:54:04,300 That day, over a thousand of our people were killed. 679 00:54:04,300 --> 00:54:07,180 I saw it all with my very own eyes. 680 00:54:13,820 --> 00:54:17,420 The Tibetan resistance, made up of freedom fighters and monks, 681 00:54:17,420 --> 00:54:22,700 had taken up arms for the first time in their lives, were no match for the Chinese army. 682 00:54:22,700 --> 00:54:24,860 They surrendered after three days. 683 00:54:26,420 --> 00:54:29,420 The Tibetan Government was abolished, 684 00:54:29,420 --> 00:54:33,100 and the Chinese systematically began to destroy Tibetan society, 685 00:54:33,100 --> 00:54:36,260 and its Buddhist culture and traditions. 686 00:54:36,260 --> 00:54:39,740 Monasteries were looted and scriptures burned. 687 00:54:39,740 --> 00:54:42,580 Nuns and monks were forced to denounce their faith. 688 00:54:44,140 --> 00:54:47,780 They were also made to discard their robes and grow their hair. 689 00:54:47,780 --> 00:54:50,820 They were even forced to marry each other. 690 00:54:50,820 --> 00:54:56,700 Class resentment among us peasants over Tibet's feudal system was ruthlessly exploited. 691 00:55:02,700 --> 00:55:06,100 The Indian Government granted the Dalai Lama political asylum. 692 00:55:06,100 --> 00:55:10,620 80,000 refugees from Tibet escaped from Tibet to join him. 693 00:55:10,620 --> 00:55:15,380 He's lived here in Dharamsala, known as Little Lhasa, ever since. 694 00:55:18,300 --> 00:55:22,100 The Dalai Lama appealed to the United Nations, 695 00:55:22,100 --> 00:55:27,060 calling on China to respect the human rights of Tibetans, and their desire for self-determination. 696 00:55:33,940 --> 00:55:37,740 Despite three resolutions adopted by the UN General Assembly, 697 00:55:37,740 --> 00:55:41,220 the fact that thousands of monasteries were destroyed, 698 00:55:41,220 --> 00:55:45,620 and hundreds of thousands of Tibetans were imprisoned in labour camps, 699 00:55:45,620 --> 00:55:49,300 'the international community refused to intervene.' 700 00:55:49,300 --> 00:55:53,460 It's tragic that Tibetans have lost their homeland, 701 00:55:53,460 --> 00:55:57,500 and with no tangible international intervention. 702 00:55:57,500 --> 00:56:01,380 But coming here, looking around, one can see that despite everything, 703 00:56:01,380 --> 00:56:07,060 Tibetans retain their sense of national identity, their culture and their pride. 704 00:56:12,620 --> 00:56:17,860 Looking at this pictures that you have, here in front of me, 705 00:56:17,860 --> 00:56:20,940 it's entirely a different world. 706 00:56:20,940 --> 00:56:24,500 And it was... To me, it's very sad. 707 00:56:24,500 --> 00:56:28,380 Er, for instance, like, my grandfather wanted Tibet... 708 00:56:28,380 --> 00:56:31,140 It's very emotional to talk about Tibet, you know. 709 00:56:32,660 --> 00:56:38,820 Er, my grandfather wanted Tibet to be with the outside world... 710 00:56:38,820 --> 00:56:43,500 and to join the United Nations, to educate the Tibetans outside, 711 00:56:43,500 --> 00:56:45,580 to be with the modern world. 712 00:56:45,580 --> 00:56:47,980 But his visions and his wishes, 713 00:56:47,980 --> 00:56:51,900 and also the 13th Dalai Lama and the 14th Dalai Lama, 714 00:56:51,900 --> 00:56:57,020 had wished that we must have contact with the international world. 715 00:56:57,020 --> 00:57:01,460 But unfortunately, from our own side, 716 00:57:01,460 --> 00:57:06,900 we were so...blind, and we knew nothing of the outside world, 717 00:57:06,900 --> 00:57:11,060 we were just so engrossed in our little pond, 718 00:57:11,060 --> 00:57:13,380 you know. 719 00:57:13,380 --> 00:57:17,380 So, we knew nothing what was happening to the world, 720 00:57:17,380 --> 00:57:20,340 what could happen, and so, we lost our country. 721 00:57:29,180 --> 00:57:34,340 The Dalai Lama advocates a middle way, which means he wants Tibetans 722 00:57:34,340 --> 00:57:39,740 to move back to Tibet, even if they become a minority within China. 723 00:57:39,740 --> 00:57:44,340 But a minority with a degree of self-rule. 724 00:57:44,340 --> 00:57:47,260 He remains determined that a dialogue 725 00:57:47,260 --> 00:57:51,940 between the Chinese and the Tibetans remains peaceful and positive. 726 00:57:58,780 --> 00:58:01,380 Middle approach is the best, 727 00:58:01,380 --> 00:58:05,060 so present Chinese Government policy, regarding 728 00:58:05,060 --> 00:58:11,740 different minorities, particularly regarding Tibet, is not healthy, or not good 729 00:58:11,740 --> 00:58:13,380 for long run. 730 00:58:13,380 --> 00:58:15,860 So, kind of new opinions, 731 00:58:15,860 --> 00:58:20,860 as a result of better awareness, now coming. 732 00:58:20,860 --> 00:58:24,020 So therefore, basically, I'm hopeful. 733 00:58:28,020 --> 00:58:30,140 Thank you. 734 00:58:30,140 --> 00:58:35,540 The Chinese government remains adamant that Tibet is not an independent nation. 735 00:58:35,540 --> 00:58:39,460 All the Buddhist ceremonies and rituals we've see in this film 736 00:58:39,460 --> 00:58:43,460 are still banned, in the Dalai Lama's homeland of Tibet.