1 00:00:03,300 --> 00:00:06,900 Where Russia meets Asia lies the Caucasus, 2 00:00:06,900 --> 00:00:10,700 a hidden land of dramatic peaks and ancient cultures. 3 00:00:12,340 --> 00:00:15,700 For centuries, wars and natural barriers 4 00:00:15,700 --> 00:00:18,980 have stopped outsiders passing through. 5 00:00:18,980 --> 00:00:24,700 But now I want to cross this mighty mountain range, all the way to Iran. 6 00:00:26,900 --> 00:00:28,780 Whoo! This is where the journey begins. 7 00:00:30,220 --> 00:00:32,260 'My name is Levison Wood. 8 00:00:32,260 --> 00:00:33,300 It's a cold one today. 9 00:00:33,300 --> 00:00:35,500 'I've travelled the length of the Nile... 10 00:00:35,500 --> 00:00:36,740 Can't see a thing now. 11 00:00:36,740 --> 00:00:37,980 '..the Himalayas...' 12 00:00:37,980 --> 00:00:39,860 This is all I've got. 13 00:00:39,860 --> 00:00:41,060 '..and the Americas.' 14 00:00:41,060 --> 00:00:42,900 Ah! 15 00:00:42,900 --> 00:00:44,220 'Now... 16 00:00:45,300 --> 00:00:47,060 '..I'm crossing the Caucasus...' 17 00:00:47,060 --> 00:00:49,260 Running up here was a bad idea. 18 00:00:49,260 --> 00:00:51,940 '..with the help of the locals themselves.' 19 00:00:51,940 --> 00:00:54,980 Can we jump on? This is hitchhiking, Georgian style. 20 00:00:54,980 --> 00:00:56,300 Yes. 21 00:00:58,540 --> 00:01:01,580 Starting from the foothills in southern Russia, 22 00:01:01,580 --> 00:01:05,620 I'll track the mountains as they zigzag across five countries 23 00:01:05,620 --> 00:01:07,780 to the shores of the Caspian Sea. 24 00:01:09,220 --> 00:01:12,220 From the dusty peaks of the northern badlands 25 00:01:12,220 --> 00:01:16,380 to the fertile valleys of the former Soviet republics, 26 00:01:16,380 --> 00:01:19,260 aiming to finish in the captivating nation of Iran. 27 00:01:21,140 --> 00:01:22,140 Wish me luck. 28 00:01:23,140 --> 00:01:24,860 'I'll travel through remote... 29 00:01:26,340 --> 00:01:28,540 There's a mummified cat nailed to the wall! 30 00:01:28,540 --> 00:01:31,460 You'd think it would feel safe, but it really doesn't. 31 00:01:31,460 --> 00:01:33,660 '..volatile...' GUNFIRE 32 00:01:33,660 --> 00:01:35,620 DOG BARKS 33 00:01:35,620 --> 00:01:36,900 I think we'd better leave. 34 00:01:38,820 --> 00:01:40,860 '..and spectacular lands.' 35 00:01:40,860 --> 00:01:43,620 That's got to be one of the most mind-blowing views. 36 00:01:43,620 --> 00:01:45,620 It puts the Grand Canyon to shame. 37 00:01:45,620 --> 00:01:46,700 'And I'll meet people... 38 00:01:48,140 --> 00:01:49,860 Getting very friendly with his sheep. 39 00:01:49,860 --> 00:01:51,660 '..like no others on earth.' 40 00:01:51,660 --> 00:01:54,700 Hello, What do you reckon? Suit me? 41 00:01:56,260 --> 00:01:58,820 'So far... HE SHOUTS 42 00:01:58,820 --> 00:02:01,100 '..I've travelled Russia's wild frontier...' 43 00:02:01,100 --> 00:02:03,700 Wow, there's bones everywhere. 44 00:02:03,700 --> 00:02:06,380 '..and remote valleys. DOG BARKS 45 00:02:06,380 --> 00:02:10,140 '..to cross the Caucasus into oil-rich Azerbaijan.' 46 00:02:10,140 --> 00:02:12,700 Well, this is quite a welcome. 47 00:02:12,700 --> 00:02:16,420 'Now I'm about to step into a volcanic desert...' 48 00:02:16,420 --> 00:02:18,060 It's so hot. 49 00:02:18,060 --> 00:02:19,860 '..join migrating herdsmen... 50 00:02:19,860 --> 00:02:21,540 HORSE NEIGHS 51 00:02:21,540 --> 00:02:23,860 '..and travel treacherous roads...' 52 00:02:23,860 --> 00:02:26,900 One loose boulder and the entire cliff could come down. 53 00:02:26,900 --> 00:02:28,620 '..as I attempt to reach... 54 00:02:28,620 --> 00:02:30,220 Straight through the mountain. 55 00:02:30,220 --> 00:02:31,580 '..the edge of Asia.' 56 00:02:31,580 --> 00:02:32,820 It's steep! 57 00:02:32,820 --> 00:02:34,100 This is BLEEP scary. 58 00:02:44,340 --> 00:02:49,460 I'm in Azerbaijan, 1,000 miles into my journey from Russia to Iran. 59 00:02:50,780 --> 00:02:53,620 Looks like this is the end of the road here. 60 00:02:53,620 --> 00:02:55,060 Yes. 61 00:02:55,060 --> 00:02:57,580 I'm with my guide, Namin Bunyatov. 62 00:02:57,580 --> 00:03:00,140 From now on, we are going into the wild. 63 00:03:04,460 --> 00:03:07,260 Namin's leading me back to the mountains, 64 00:03:07,260 --> 00:03:11,300 through one of Azerbaijan's hidden wonders, the Gobustan desert. 65 00:03:12,900 --> 00:03:17,100 These sands are home to 340 mud volcanoes, 66 00:03:17,100 --> 00:03:19,380 and are known as the Burning Mountains. 67 00:03:21,540 --> 00:03:22,740 It's hot today, isn't it? 68 00:03:30,820 --> 00:03:35,660 The next 600 miles of our journey will draw us through two countries - 69 00:03:35,660 --> 00:03:37,540 Azerbaijan and Georgia. 70 00:03:38,980 --> 00:03:42,260 Azerbaijan is at war with its neighbour, Armenia, 71 00:03:42,260 --> 00:03:45,100 over the contested state of Nagorno-Karabakh. 72 00:03:46,580 --> 00:03:49,180 Our route will lead us through deserts, 73 00:03:49,180 --> 00:03:52,060 landslide blackspots and castles in the sky. 74 00:03:53,820 --> 00:03:56,300 And on to Georgia's lush valleys, 75 00:03:56,300 --> 00:03:59,780 home to hermit monks and cave cities, 76 00:03:59,780 --> 00:04:02,020 as we try to reach the edge of Asia. 77 00:04:08,380 --> 00:04:09,940 You enjoying the desert, Namin? 78 00:04:18,460 --> 00:04:21,820 Namin was a soldier with the Azeri special forces, 79 00:04:21,820 --> 00:04:25,460 and even served in the war with neighbouring Armenia, 80 00:04:25,460 --> 00:04:28,220 which still continues 100 miles to our west. 81 00:04:29,340 --> 00:04:31,340 How long did you serve there for? 82 00:04:31,340 --> 00:04:33,780 I served for more than five years. 83 00:04:33,780 --> 00:04:35,980 What was the fighting like? Was it intense? 84 00:04:35,980 --> 00:04:38,940 Shooting, yes. Snipers from both sides. 85 00:04:38,940 --> 00:04:40,300 They are firing. 86 00:04:40,300 --> 00:04:43,220 It's still very dangerous. 87 00:04:46,700 --> 00:04:49,020 Fighting began in 1992, 88 00:04:49,020 --> 00:04:54,500 when Armenia seized lands that Azerbaijan saw as their own. 89 00:04:54,500 --> 00:04:57,300 Up to 30,000 people have been killed, 90 00:04:57,300 --> 00:04:59,660 and I'll only be free to pass through the region 91 00:04:59,660 --> 00:05:02,380 once I reach Armenia in a few weeks' time. 92 00:05:04,460 --> 00:05:07,340 Now there's just the border you can't cross, it's impossible. 93 00:05:07,340 --> 00:05:10,660 Impossible. You cannot cross. 94 00:05:10,660 --> 00:05:12,660 You cannot approach the front line. 95 00:05:13,700 --> 00:05:17,860 But we hope that way is how we can get our land back. 96 00:05:23,100 --> 00:05:27,300 'Azerbaijan sits atop huge oil and gas reserves...' 97 00:05:27,300 --> 00:05:28,180 Look at this one here. 98 00:05:29,460 --> 00:05:31,460 '..which help create this unique landscape.' 99 00:05:32,460 --> 00:05:34,540 It's like we've arrived on the surface of the moon. 100 00:05:36,420 --> 00:05:40,020 So, from far away, they look like termite mounds 101 00:05:40,020 --> 00:05:42,020 or mini mountains but, 102 00:05:42,020 --> 00:05:43,460 when you get up close, 103 00:05:43,460 --> 00:05:46,780 you can actually see where the mud is oozing and bubbling 104 00:05:46,780 --> 00:05:49,380 out of the ground. 105 00:05:49,380 --> 00:05:51,860 I was expecting that to be hot, but it's not at all. 106 00:05:51,860 --> 00:05:53,340 It's just cold mud. 107 00:05:54,980 --> 00:05:57,620 Below us lies a vast mud reservoir. 108 00:05:59,460 --> 00:06:03,500 As gas rises to the surface, it forces the mud through cracks... 109 00:06:06,100 --> 00:06:08,940 ..forming these volcanic cones. 110 00:06:08,940 --> 00:06:11,300 This mud, the famous Gobustan volcano. 111 00:06:11,300 --> 00:06:16,540 It's better than using sun cream, because it's completely natural. 112 00:06:16,540 --> 00:06:18,300 You're like a mini Rambo, aren't you? 113 00:06:25,980 --> 00:06:28,460 You look fantastic, mate, don't worry. 114 00:06:31,220 --> 00:06:33,820 I'm going to put a little bit on my face, just to keep the sun off. 115 00:06:34,820 --> 00:06:38,620 Right. On your nose and your cheeks. 116 00:06:40,740 --> 00:06:42,340 I think that's enough for me. 117 00:06:43,500 --> 00:06:44,700 Let's go. 118 00:06:46,420 --> 00:06:49,620 Turns out mud sun cream isn't too comfy, 119 00:06:49,620 --> 00:06:50,980 and we soon wash it off. 120 00:06:57,820 --> 00:07:00,900 In winter, shepherds from the freezing northern highlands 121 00:07:00,900 --> 00:07:04,060 bring their flocks to graze on the Gobustan's mild plains. 122 00:07:07,460 --> 00:07:11,220 Now it's spring, they're returning to the high summer pastures... 123 00:07:13,620 --> 00:07:14,980 ..like Olan here. 124 00:07:22,540 --> 00:07:24,420 How many sheep do you have to look after? 125 00:07:34,740 --> 00:07:36,180 Wow. 126 00:07:36,180 --> 00:07:37,300 How far do you travel? 127 00:07:42,340 --> 00:07:43,740 400km, maybe. 128 00:07:43,740 --> 00:07:45,220 400km on foot? 129 00:07:47,220 --> 00:07:49,780 And where do you sleep, just outside with your sheep? 130 00:07:51,660 --> 00:07:52,980 Right. Thank you very much. 131 00:07:54,500 --> 00:07:55,700 Thank you. 132 00:07:59,460 --> 00:08:01,540 'While some, like Olan, pass through here...' 133 00:08:02,900 --> 00:08:05,220 What do you think this building is up ahead? 134 00:08:05,220 --> 00:08:07,060 '..others call this home.' 135 00:08:07,060 --> 00:08:07,980 It looks like farm. 136 00:08:10,980 --> 00:08:12,540 Who are these...? Who are the people? 137 00:08:12,540 --> 00:08:14,220 Oh, the shepherds' families. 138 00:08:19,700 --> 00:08:23,100 This shepherds' camp is home to some 60 people, 139 00:08:23,100 --> 00:08:24,940 and nearly 1,000 sheep and cattle. 140 00:08:27,180 --> 00:08:29,420 It's been here for generations. 141 00:08:29,420 --> 00:08:33,620 A group of families all just living here, in the middle of nowhere. 142 00:08:33,620 --> 00:08:35,900 Whilst the men herd, 143 00:08:35,900 --> 00:08:37,540 the women keep the place running. 144 00:08:41,500 --> 00:08:44,900 DOGS BARK Protecting this site from wolves... 145 00:08:46,780 --> 00:08:48,500 ..are their Caucasian shepherd dogs. 146 00:09:00,860 --> 00:09:02,540 They're bred to kill wolves, 147 00:09:02,540 --> 00:09:04,900 but I'm sure would happily have a piece of me. 148 00:09:24,940 --> 00:09:26,860 We haven't got any tents. HE CHUCKLES 149 00:09:26,860 --> 00:09:29,300 So we're just going to blow up our air mats 150 00:09:29,300 --> 00:09:32,100 and just get our heads down for the night. 151 00:09:35,580 --> 00:09:40,060 We'd hoped to make it out of the desert tonight, but by 6pm, 152 00:09:40,060 --> 00:09:41,020 it's gone dark. 153 00:09:45,420 --> 00:09:47,500 DOG BARKS 154 00:09:53,780 --> 00:09:55,380 Is it a dog or a wolf? 155 00:10:01,860 --> 00:10:02,820 Maybe we're in it. 156 00:10:08,980 --> 00:10:12,060 Fingers crossed it doesn't come any closer. DOG BARKS 157 00:10:19,900 --> 00:10:21,900 The dog got pretty close last night. 158 00:10:21,900 --> 00:10:24,380 It was sniffing around the camp all night and barking. 159 00:10:24,380 --> 00:10:27,220 But it didn't attack us, which is the main thing. 160 00:10:30,140 --> 00:10:32,020 But it seems you're never alone out here. 161 00:10:38,300 --> 00:10:43,140 I think the plan is to keep on walking. 162 00:10:45,940 --> 00:10:47,340 'Ten miles from our camp... 163 00:10:48,740 --> 00:10:50,180 '..we leave the Gobustan desert... 164 00:10:52,380 --> 00:10:54,780 '..and the sands give way to rolling farmland. 165 00:10:57,700 --> 00:10:59,540 'Before leading us...' 166 00:10:59,540 --> 00:11:00,740 We made it! 167 00:11:00,740 --> 00:11:01,940 '..into another world.' 168 00:11:06,140 --> 00:11:08,460 It's nice to be back in the mountains, isn't it? 169 00:11:08,460 --> 00:11:11,500 Fresh air, nice and cool, 170 00:11:11,500 --> 00:11:14,580 beautiful views and incredibly green. 171 00:11:18,860 --> 00:11:20,660 Feel like I'm back in the Himalayas. 172 00:11:22,700 --> 00:11:23,620 It's very wobbly. 173 00:11:24,860 --> 00:11:26,140 I'm not going to look down. 174 00:11:27,700 --> 00:11:29,660 Unlike some, 175 00:11:29,660 --> 00:11:31,980 Namin's a professional climber, 176 00:11:31,980 --> 00:11:35,860 and he's already shown me terrifying clips of him hanging off buildings. 177 00:11:35,860 --> 00:11:37,220 What on earth is that?! 178 00:11:38,460 --> 00:11:41,460 But he can't stop himself from doing ridiculous stunts. 179 00:11:42,700 --> 00:11:43,660 Lunatic! 180 00:11:45,980 --> 00:11:49,220 Namin, you are absolutely mental. 181 00:11:49,220 --> 00:11:51,620 It makes my blood run faster. 182 00:11:51,620 --> 00:11:53,100 You almost died! 183 00:11:53,100 --> 00:11:56,340 You were hanging onto a rope bridge with one arm over a river! 184 00:11:56,340 --> 00:11:58,260 That's OK. I know what I'm doing. 185 00:11:58,260 --> 00:12:01,140 I control myself, no problem. 186 00:12:01,140 --> 00:12:04,260 Right, I'm going to have to keep you away from high bridges 187 00:12:04,260 --> 00:12:05,700 and buildings. 188 00:12:05,700 --> 00:12:07,540 LAUGHING: Yes, yes. 189 00:12:09,460 --> 00:12:10,460 Yes. 190 00:12:22,840 --> 00:12:27,000 I'm in the lush Caucasus Mountains of Azerbaijan with my guide, Namin. 191 00:12:28,920 --> 00:12:32,720 We're aiming for the ancient town of Lahic, 50 miles away, 192 00:12:32,720 --> 00:12:34,440 famed for its traditional craftsmen. 193 00:12:36,040 --> 00:12:39,360 But the further we head from the oil-rich cities in the East, 194 00:12:39,360 --> 00:12:41,840 the worse the roads become. 195 00:12:41,840 --> 00:12:44,120 That is not a good place to break down. 196 00:12:44,120 --> 00:12:47,400 He's just pushing the car backwards to get away from the danger area. 197 00:12:48,600 --> 00:12:51,440 These cliffs are absolutely terrifying. 198 00:12:51,440 --> 00:12:54,720 You only have to look around to see the amount of debris and scree 199 00:12:54,720 --> 00:12:56,400 that has just come crashing down. 200 00:12:57,680 --> 00:13:00,320 Even daredevil Namin's not keen on walking here. 201 00:13:03,440 --> 00:13:05,960 And so we hitch a lift with a local. 202 00:13:08,840 --> 00:13:11,240 I'm very concerned about this road. 203 00:13:11,240 --> 00:13:15,120 Every time I pass here, I have strange feeling of fear. 204 00:13:15,120 --> 00:13:17,000 And all it takes is one loose boulder, 205 00:13:17,000 --> 00:13:18,800 and the entire cliff can come down. 206 00:13:20,440 --> 00:13:22,040 What do you do if you see a landslide, 207 00:13:22,040 --> 00:13:25,320 do you drive fast or do you get out of the car and run? 208 00:13:28,080 --> 00:13:29,800 Have you ever seen a landslide here? 209 00:13:34,280 --> 00:13:35,280 Really? 210 00:13:41,560 --> 00:13:44,720 Beyond Lahic, we'll be aiming for ancient cities 211 00:13:44,720 --> 00:13:47,640 and castles high in the mountains, 212 00:13:47,640 --> 00:13:52,080 before crossing into country number three, Georgia. 213 00:13:52,080 --> 00:13:54,920 And the Pankisi Gorge, 214 00:13:54,920 --> 00:13:59,120 a troubled paradise that's a known breeding ground for Isis fighters. 215 00:14:02,440 --> 00:14:04,440 HE SAYS THANK YOU 216 00:14:07,320 --> 00:14:10,480 Safe journey back. Stay away from the landslides. 217 00:14:10,480 --> 00:14:11,800 OK, thank you very much. 218 00:14:11,800 --> 00:14:13,400 CAR ENGINE STARTS 219 00:14:16,600 --> 00:14:18,040 Well, this is Lahic. 220 00:14:19,080 --> 00:14:21,200 THEY GREET ONE ANOTHER 221 00:14:21,200 --> 00:14:24,200 300 years ago, Lahic became famous 222 00:14:24,200 --> 00:14:27,680 for making weapons so good they were shipped all the way to Iran. 223 00:14:30,880 --> 00:14:33,720 Today, their craftsmen are keen to flog their wares 224 00:14:33,720 --> 00:14:34,960 to any passing trade. 225 00:14:36,200 --> 00:14:38,800 What do you reckon? Whoa, a rifle! 226 00:14:38,800 --> 00:14:41,520 TRADER SPEAKS AZERBAIJANI 227 00:14:44,840 --> 00:14:47,240 This shop looks like it's straight out of a movie set. 228 00:14:50,720 --> 00:14:52,360 Salaam! 229 00:14:52,360 --> 00:14:53,560 How are you? 230 00:14:56,520 --> 00:14:57,480 What's your name? 231 00:14:59,400 --> 00:15:01,480 How many years have you been doing this for? 232 00:15:15,840 --> 00:15:19,000 Shabli's shop has been around long enough to witness some of 233 00:15:19,000 --> 00:15:21,880 the eight different empires that have ruled Azerbaijan. 234 00:15:23,920 --> 00:15:25,720 What's this? 235 00:15:25,720 --> 00:15:26,880 900 years. 236 00:15:26,880 --> 00:15:28,080 900 years! 237 00:15:31,600 --> 00:15:33,440 What's that, is that a really old one? 238 00:15:36,360 --> 00:15:38,160 What on earth is that?! 239 00:15:38,160 --> 00:15:40,040 HE CHUCKLES 240 00:15:40,040 --> 00:15:42,160 There's a mummified cat nailed to the wall! 241 00:15:47,280 --> 00:15:48,880 How long has it been up there for? 242 00:15:50,080 --> 00:15:52,160 That is absolutely ridiculous! 243 00:15:52,160 --> 00:15:54,920 There's a 150-year-old cat nailed to the wall! 244 00:15:54,920 --> 00:15:56,480 LAUGHTER 245 00:15:56,480 --> 00:15:58,800 It's really good to meet you, thank you so much. 246 00:15:58,800 --> 00:16:01,520 THEY SAY GOODBYE 247 00:16:12,200 --> 00:16:14,040 We have one day left in Azerbaijan. 248 00:16:15,680 --> 00:16:18,520 Tomorrow, we plan to head for a mountain castle. 249 00:16:18,520 --> 00:16:20,560 Salam aleykum! 250 00:16:20,560 --> 00:16:24,320 Before we set off, we're going to need to stock up on supplies. 251 00:16:27,880 --> 00:16:29,760 This is Sheki Market. 252 00:16:32,880 --> 00:16:35,720 It's literally got everything you need, chickens 253 00:16:35,720 --> 00:16:38,240 bright pink sofas, brooms, 254 00:16:38,240 --> 00:16:40,120 fruit, veg. 255 00:16:40,120 --> 00:16:44,560 There you go, there's a cow's head dangling from a tree. 256 00:16:44,560 --> 00:16:47,520 Sheki used to be a thriving hub for silk production, 257 00:16:48,920 --> 00:16:51,880 but as the oil and gas industries have surged, 258 00:16:51,880 --> 00:16:53,520 manufacturing suffered. 259 00:16:55,080 --> 00:16:57,120 And today, 260 00:16:57,120 --> 00:17:00,320 towns like Sheki rely more on agriculture. 261 00:17:00,320 --> 00:17:04,440 I've never seen two cows being towed by a motorbike before. 262 00:17:06,200 --> 00:17:08,400 Before I leave Azerbaijan tomorrow, 263 00:17:08,400 --> 00:17:12,680 Namin's taking me to a fort that's become part of Azeri folklore. 264 00:17:15,280 --> 00:17:19,000 Whilst I was surrounded by flash cars in the capital, Baku, 265 00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:22,640 the rides here are a little less luxurious. 266 00:17:22,640 --> 00:17:26,120 A couple of these local guys said they can give us a lift to 267 00:17:26,120 --> 00:17:29,080 the end of the road, and then from there, it's about a two hour walk. 268 00:17:34,120 --> 00:17:36,440 It's up there, high in the forest somewhere. 269 00:17:36,440 --> 00:17:38,520 THEY CONVERSE 270 00:17:44,400 --> 00:17:46,080 Like an eagle nest. 271 00:17:46,080 --> 00:17:48,960 I really hope I can make it. 272 00:17:48,960 --> 00:17:52,000 Phew. But it looks challenging. 273 00:17:53,960 --> 00:17:57,160 300 metres up this cliff is Peri Qalasi, 274 00:17:57,160 --> 00:17:58,880 or "the Fairy Castle". 275 00:18:00,480 --> 00:18:05,240 Legend has it, a princess fled here to escape Genghis Khan, 276 00:18:05,240 --> 00:18:06,880 who wanted to take her as his wife. 277 00:18:08,960 --> 00:18:11,880 And it's not a bad hiding place. 278 00:18:11,880 --> 00:18:13,800 HE PANTS 279 00:18:18,720 --> 00:18:23,520 Well, Genghis Khan must have really liked this girl. 280 00:18:23,520 --> 00:18:24,480 What a climb. 281 00:18:32,480 --> 00:18:37,160 Beyond the forest lies a 20-storey sheer cliff face. 282 00:18:37,160 --> 00:18:39,040 That was the easy bit. 283 00:18:39,040 --> 00:18:41,720 I'm now putting myself in the hands of Namin, 284 00:18:41,720 --> 00:18:45,240 the man who hangs off bridges in his spare time. 285 00:18:45,240 --> 00:18:46,880 It looks bloody steep. 286 00:18:48,160 --> 00:18:49,240 It's incredible. 287 00:18:50,840 --> 00:18:53,200 And it turns out the princess who hid here 288 00:18:53,200 --> 00:18:56,320 escaped Genghis Khan only by throwing herself from the top. 289 00:18:58,600 --> 00:19:00,160 Right, then - off we go. 290 00:19:00,160 --> 00:19:02,240 HE PANTS 291 00:19:05,720 --> 00:19:06,720 It's steep! 292 00:19:09,880 --> 00:19:11,200 A lot of stuff coming down. 293 00:19:15,040 --> 00:19:17,280 This is BLEEP scary! 294 00:19:17,280 --> 00:19:18,720 Phew! 295 00:19:18,720 --> 00:19:20,280 Right. 296 00:19:20,280 --> 00:19:21,520 Do a bit more. 297 00:19:24,200 --> 00:19:25,960 But finally, 298 00:19:25,960 --> 00:19:27,240 after three hours... 299 00:19:27,240 --> 00:19:30,360 Yes! ..we reach the Fairy Castle. 300 00:19:31,640 --> 00:19:33,160 Woo! 301 00:19:33,160 --> 00:19:34,960 HE PANTS 302 00:19:38,360 --> 00:19:39,880 We made it. 303 00:19:39,880 --> 00:19:40,840 Here we are. 304 00:19:42,040 --> 00:19:44,360 Let's go and have a look, and see what's here. 305 00:19:44,360 --> 00:19:46,320 Give me your hand. 306 00:19:46,320 --> 00:19:47,320 Just like that. 307 00:19:50,240 --> 00:19:51,200 Woo! 308 00:19:54,200 --> 00:19:56,880 Well, there we go, castles in the sky do exist. 309 00:19:58,240 --> 00:19:59,800 Peri Qalasi. 310 00:20:01,160 --> 00:20:03,600 The castle of the beautiful woman. 311 00:20:10,800 --> 00:20:12,360 But making it here 312 00:20:12,360 --> 00:20:14,880 means I've come to the end of the road in Azerbaijan. 313 00:20:16,920 --> 00:20:18,600 And must bid farewell to Namin. 314 00:20:19,680 --> 00:20:21,880 Thanks for looking after me. 315 00:20:21,880 --> 00:20:23,840 You've been an incredible guide. OK. 316 00:20:23,840 --> 00:20:26,080 Come to England soon, yeah? Yes, soon. 317 00:20:26,080 --> 00:20:28,680 See you, my friend. Keep in touch! Take care. Will do. 318 00:20:34,720 --> 00:20:38,040 There it is, there's the river that separates Azerbaijan and Georgia. 319 00:20:39,920 --> 00:20:43,040 I first came to Georgia in my early 20s, 320 00:20:43,040 --> 00:20:45,320 and I've arranged to meet an old friend. 321 00:20:45,320 --> 00:20:47,400 He's around here somewhere. 322 00:20:47,400 --> 00:20:48,400 Hopefully. 323 00:20:48,400 --> 00:20:49,880 Lasha! 324 00:20:49,880 --> 00:20:52,400 When we met, Lasha Samushir 325 00:20:52,400 --> 00:20:53,960 was a professional footballer... 326 00:20:53,960 --> 00:20:55,040 Good to see you again! 327 00:20:55,040 --> 00:20:57,640 ..but injury forced him to retire. 328 00:20:57,640 --> 00:20:59,640 And now he's free to travel the country with me. 329 00:20:59,640 --> 00:21:02,400 13 years. You promised me you will be back. 330 00:21:02,400 --> 00:21:04,240 Well, I'm... You're here. And here we are. 331 00:21:04,240 --> 00:21:05,920 Welcome to Georgia, my friend! 332 00:21:08,080 --> 00:21:12,360 Lasha has left his wife, Irina, and two kids at home. 333 00:21:12,360 --> 00:21:14,560 But something tells me he's pleased to see me. 334 00:21:18,400 --> 00:21:20,520 What are you doing? 335 00:21:20,520 --> 00:21:21,560 It's your love! 336 00:21:22,880 --> 00:21:24,720 Thank you very much, Lasha. 337 00:21:24,720 --> 00:21:25,600 Just what I wanted. 338 00:21:29,040 --> 00:21:30,880 It's very green, lush. 339 00:21:32,160 --> 00:21:34,440 Over there, lots of orchards, 340 00:21:34,440 --> 00:21:36,040 olive trees, 341 00:21:36,040 --> 00:21:38,080 vineyards everywhere. 342 00:21:38,080 --> 00:21:40,600 It's almost got a Mediterranean feel to it. 343 00:21:43,680 --> 00:21:46,680 The ancient Greeks thought Georgia so beautiful, 344 00:21:46,680 --> 00:21:48,920 they described it as paradise on earth. 345 00:21:51,360 --> 00:21:55,400 Farmers and shepherds have worked these fertile lands for centuries. 346 00:21:56,920 --> 00:22:00,000 But the post-Soviet years have seen the country struggle. 347 00:22:04,560 --> 00:22:07,200 I've arrived just as Georgia's shepherd migration 348 00:22:07,200 --> 00:22:10,840 to the high summer pastures is in full swing. 349 00:22:13,000 --> 00:22:16,520 There's some horses coming here. Shall we ask for a lift? 350 00:22:18,360 --> 00:22:20,800 Can we jump on? 351 00:22:20,800 --> 00:22:22,400 Yeah? Jump on. 352 00:22:22,400 --> 00:22:23,400 Let's go. 353 00:22:28,000 --> 00:22:31,520 So this is, this is hitchhiking Georgian style. 354 00:22:31,520 --> 00:22:33,480 Yes! 355 00:22:33,480 --> 00:22:35,400 Well, it's not the fastest mode of transport, 356 00:22:35,400 --> 00:22:36,720 but it's better than nothing. 357 00:22:36,720 --> 00:22:39,440 LAUGHTER 358 00:22:39,440 --> 00:22:40,960 How are you doing? Yeah? 359 00:22:42,880 --> 00:22:44,360 What's your name? 360 00:22:44,360 --> 00:22:46,160 THEY REPLY 361 00:22:46,160 --> 00:22:48,080 Logoman! Logoman. 362 00:22:48,080 --> 00:22:49,640 And you? Raul. 363 00:22:49,640 --> 00:22:52,080 Raul! Nice to meet you. 364 00:22:52,080 --> 00:22:54,040 Ooh! 365 00:22:54,040 --> 00:22:56,360 These guys are Tush shepherds. 366 00:22:56,360 --> 00:22:57,600 So, where are you going? 367 00:23:01,520 --> 00:23:03,840 Because the grass is green there. 368 00:23:07,760 --> 00:23:10,040 They're heading to ancestral lands, 369 00:23:10,040 --> 00:23:12,320 given to them by a Georgian king 370 00:23:12,320 --> 00:23:14,120 for defeating an invading Russian army. 371 00:23:15,280 --> 00:23:17,200 THEY GREET ONE ANOTHER 372 00:23:23,120 --> 00:23:27,760 While the women are ahead setting up a summer camp, the men follow, 373 00:23:27,760 --> 00:23:30,280 taking their most prized stock with them. 374 00:23:30,280 --> 00:23:32,200 Looks like we've got some friends as well. 375 00:23:32,200 --> 00:23:35,080 We've got one dog, horses running alongside 376 00:23:35,080 --> 00:23:36,800 and how many cows in there? 377 00:23:36,800 --> 00:23:37,800 Two cows. 378 00:23:39,840 --> 00:23:42,040 I think this is our stop. We need to get off now. 379 00:23:43,840 --> 00:23:45,760 Thank you very much. Thank you. 380 00:23:48,400 --> 00:23:50,160 That was a hitch with a difference. 381 00:23:55,160 --> 00:23:57,920 Georgians claim that their fertile lands 382 00:23:57,920 --> 00:24:02,680 are where wine was invented, 8,000 years ago. 383 00:24:02,680 --> 00:24:05,160 How are you doing? Hello! 384 00:24:05,160 --> 00:24:09,280 Today, they export nearly 50 million bottles a year. 385 00:24:09,280 --> 00:24:11,880 But they keep a few back for themselves. 386 00:24:11,880 --> 00:24:13,520 I think he's had a couple. 387 00:24:13,520 --> 00:24:15,160 This man is not in good condition. 388 00:24:15,160 --> 00:24:17,120 LAUGHTER 389 00:24:18,560 --> 00:24:21,480 He's got to be the worst shepherd in the world. 390 00:24:21,480 --> 00:24:24,040 It's a lovely place. If you're going to get drunk anywhere, 391 00:24:24,040 --> 00:24:25,440 this is the place to do it. 392 00:24:27,880 --> 00:24:29,240 It's an unusual technique. 393 00:24:29,240 --> 00:24:30,960 Come here, please. 394 00:24:30,960 --> 00:24:32,560 What is he doing? 395 00:24:32,560 --> 00:24:35,200 He's obviously getting very friendly with his sheep. 396 00:24:42,000 --> 00:24:45,160 All right, I think it's time to leave before we get drawn into this. 397 00:24:55,360 --> 00:24:57,160 Do you want to see some photos, Lasha? 398 00:24:57,160 --> 00:24:58,840 That's when we first met, on the boat. 399 00:24:58,840 --> 00:25:00,560 Ah! 400 00:25:00,560 --> 00:25:02,440 Yeah! 401 00:25:02,440 --> 00:25:06,480 Of all the Georgians I've met, few have been kinder to me than Lasha. 402 00:25:07,880 --> 00:25:09,680 We went to this party. 403 00:25:09,680 --> 00:25:13,400 There's me, with your sister and her friend. Luca. 404 00:25:13,400 --> 00:25:16,760 A refugee, he fled a war that erupted here 405 00:25:16,760 --> 00:25:18,040 in the '90s, 406 00:25:18,040 --> 00:25:19,840 after the Soviet Union left. 407 00:25:21,520 --> 00:25:25,160 Back in those days, there was no water, no...electricity. 408 00:25:28,000 --> 00:25:29,520 Now is good. 409 00:25:29,520 --> 00:25:30,920 Now you've got everything. Yes. 410 00:25:32,360 --> 00:25:35,680 These days, most of Georgia's peaceful, 411 00:25:35,680 --> 00:25:39,240 but tomorrow the mountains will lead us to one of the country's 412 00:25:39,240 --> 00:25:40,440 most notorious regions. 413 00:25:48,640 --> 00:25:49,680 Come on, then. 414 00:25:51,320 --> 00:25:52,520 Time to go. 415 00:25:56,480 --> 00:26:01,080 Ten miles on from our camp, we arrive in the Pankisi Gorge. 416 00:26:01,080 --> 00:26:03,160 What have you heard about this place? 417 00:26:05,360 --> 00:26:06,320 Yeah? Yes. 418 00:26:08,240 --> 00:26:10,160 Over the last 20 years, 419 00:26:10,160 --> 00:26:14,320 Pankisi's become home to Muslim refugees, fleeing the Chechen War 420 00:26:14,320 --> 00:26:15,640 in neighbouring Russia. 421 00:26:18,200 --> 00:26:21,440 Now it's become a recruiting ground for the Islamic State. 422 00:26:23,440 --> 00:26:26,760 A lot of people from this region went off to Syria, 423 00:26:26,760 --> 00:26:28,880 to fight with Isis. 424 00:26:31,040 --> 00:26:33,720 It's meant to be safe at the moment, but what do you think? 425 00:26:33,720 --> 00:26:36,600 Do you think it's dangerous still, or...? 426 00:26:36,600 --> 00:26:37,600 Maybe. Maybe. 427 00:26:41,240 --> 00:26:43,880 After 50 young men left to fight, 428 00:26:43,880 --> 00:26:45,360 some of Pankisi's women 429 00:26:45,360 --> 00:26:49,320 decided to speak out against the radicalisation. 430 00:26:49,320 --> 00:26:50,520 KNOCKS DOOR 431 00:26:53,240 --> 00:26:54,760 Thanks. 432 00:26:54,760 --> 00:26:56,320 And we've come to meet one of them. 433 00:26:58,440 --> 00:27:00,200 Hi, Leila, my name's Lev. 434 00:27:03,760 --> 00:27:07,880 Leila Akishvilli raised her sons, Hamza and Hameed, in Pankisi. 435 00:27:09,760 --> 00:27:11,880 Then, one day, they disappeared. 436 00:27:20,200 --> 00:27:23,040 But rather than wait for them, Leila went to Syria. 437 00:27:49,480 --> 00:27:52,040 But once home, there was worse news to come. 438 00:28:02,920 --> 00:28:05,680 Three months later, her other son was killed. 439 00:28:06,840 --> 00:28:09,520 It's a very, very sad story. 440 00:28:09,520 --> 00:28:12,200 You're a very brave lady to be able to talk about this. 441 00:28:16,720 --> 00:28:20,960 A lot of people would call your sons terrorists. 442 00:28:20,960 --> 00:28:22,400 How would you describe them? 443 00:28:56,200 --> 00:28:58,400 It's an incredibly harrowing story, 444 00:28:58,400 --> 00:29:01,400 listening to Leila talk about her sons. 445 00:29:03,400 --> 00:29:05,320 Shocking, really, to actually... 446 00:29:06,720 --> 00:29:10,240 ..I guess, humanise what we hear about 447 00:29:10,240 --> 00:29:11,480 on the news all the time. 448 00:29:12,720 --> 00:29:15,040 I mean, ultimately, it's a tragedy all round, 449 00:29:15,040 --> 00:29:17,280 particularly for her, really. 450 00:29:19,720 --> 00:29:20,680 Very, very sad. 451 00:29:23,760 --> 00:29:24,760 But, you know... 452 00:29:26,040 --> 00:29:28,160 ..a very brave, strong woman. 453 00:29:39,030 --> 00:29:43,030 I'm travelling from Russia to Iran with my guide and friend, Lasha. 454 00:29:45,630 --> 00:29:48,270 We're in the region of Chokhatauri, 455 00:29:48,270 --> 00:29:51,030 heading for one of the most important landmarks in the country... 456 00:29:52,310 --> 00:29:54,790 ..and trekking in summer makes for thirsty work. 457 00:29:56,870 --> 00:29:59,870 Ahh! Now I gave him the wrong bottle. 458 00:29:59,870 --> 00:30:01,390 I had a bottle of vodka instead. 459 00:30:02,670 --> 00:30:05,150 Oh, sorry about that, Lasha. 460 00:30:05,150 --> 00:30:08,470 Oh, my.... Don't you just hate it when you mix up the vodka 461 00:30:08,470 --> 00:30:09,630 with the water? 462 00:30:09,630 --> 00:30:13,070 Wow! Thank you, Lev, for everything. 463 00:30:14,790 --> 00:30:15,750 Oh, my God! 464 00:30:16,870 --> 00:30:18,390 Good. 465 00:30:18,390 --> 00:30:19,830 Do you feel ready for the walk? 466 00:30:19,830 --> 00:30:21,670 Yeah. 467 00:30:23,190 --> 00:30:27,830 We're now approaching one of the most famous places in Georgia. 468 00:30:27,830 --> 00:30:32,750 We're in the industrial city of Gori, in central Georgia. 469 00:30:32,750 --> 00:30:38,150 And Gori is otherwise a pretty unremarkable place, 470 00:30:38,150 --> 00:30:40,190 with one main exception... 471 00:30:41,790 --> 00:30:44,790 ..the fact that it was the birthplace of this fellow, 472 00:30:46,190 --> 00:30:47,830 Joseph Stalin. 473 00:30:49,190 --> 00:30:51,590 Stalin nearly became a priest, 474 00:30:51,590 --> 00:30:56,350 but instead went on to become one of the most notorious tyrants in history. 475 00:30:56,350 --> 00:31:01,310 He killed somewhere in the region of 26 million people, 476 00:31:01,310 --> 00:31:06,030 including a hell of a lot of his own countrymen, Georgians. 477 00:31:06,030 --> 00:31:10,870 They still keep a monument to his birthplace and here it is in that little 478 00:31:10,870 --> 00:31:14,270 ramshackle hut, that's now been turned into a shrine. 479 00:31:15,510 --> 00:31:18,150 But it's weird to think that it's still here. 480 00:31:18,150 --> 00:31:20,710 You know, the guy was a mass murderer. 481 00:31:20,710 --> 00:31:22,030 Um, but you know... 482 00:31:22,030 --> 00:31:23,550 some people quite like him. 483 00:31:26,550 --> 00:31:30,150 Stalin's communist regime saw all religions as backward 484 00:31:30,150 --> 00:31:32,110 and looked to eliminate them. 485 00:31:34,110 --> 00:31:38,710 Despite this, Georgia has held on to its deep Christian faith, 486 00:31:38,710 --> 00:31:43,110 which it's claimed was brought here 2,000 years ago, by the apostles 487 00:31:43,110 --> 00:31:45,150 Simon and Andrew. 488 00:31:45,150 --> 00:31:47,830 Oh, wow, look at that! 489 00:31:47,830 --> 00:31:48,830 It's amazing! 490 00:31:50,190 --> 00:31:55,670 This tiny church on top of a limestone pillar is over 1,200 years old. 491 00:31:55,670 --> 00:31:58,510 Beautiful place! Yeah, check it out. 492 00:31:58,510 --> 00:32:03,430 For the past 20 years, it's been home to a hermit monk called Maxim. 493 00:32:05,270 --> 00:32:07,270 I don't know if the monk will let us go up there. 494 00:32:07,270 --> 00:32:08,910 Ask him. We can ask him? 495 00:32:08,910 --> 00:32:09,750 Yeah. 496 00:32:11,190 --> 00:32:13,590 Maxim is hardly ever seen by outsiders. 497 00:32:15,350 --> 00:32:18,390 Occasionally, he does come down, with some ladders, apparently. 498 00:32:18,390 --> 00:32:20,230 You can just about see them there. 499 00:32:20,230 --> 00:32:21,830 He's notoriously evasive, 500 00:32:23,070 --> 00:32:25,950 but we've been told to look for the chap with the long grey beard. 501 00:32:28,270 --> 00:32:29,830 And sure enough... 502 00:32:31,870 --> 00:32:33,030 Our prayers are answered. 503 00:32:34,110 --> 00:32:35,950 Although he seems a bit busy. 504 00:32:44,750 --> 00:32:48,790 The last person I heard to visit the monastery had to pray for four days 505 00:32:48,790 --> 00:32:51,510 before Maxim let them up. 506 00:32:51,510 --> 00:32:53,590 But today, he's in a forgiving mood. 507 00:33:00,150 --> 00:33:04,030 Maxim sends his trusty lieutenant Nica ahead to meet us up top. 508 00:33:04,030 --> 00:33:05,870 So it's a 40-metre ladder. 509 00:33:07,550 --> 00:33:08,670 What's that? 45? 510 00:33:10,670 --> 00:33:11,630 It's a long climb. 511 00:33:17,710 --> 00:33:19,110 OK, let me just follow you up. 512 00:33:25,790 --> 00:33:27,350 This is... 513 00:33:27,350 --> 00:33:31,110 Remarkably, you think it would feel safe but it really doesn't. 514 00:33:34,990 --> 00:33:37,470 This is actually quite terrifying. 515 00:33:46,710 --> 00:33:48,150 Are you OK? Yes. 516 00:33:49,350 --> 00:33:52,550 No-one had been up here for hundreds of years, 517 00:33:52,550 --> 00:33:54,590 until a team climbed the pillar in 1944 518 00:33:54,590 --> 00:33:57,790 and discovered the skeleton of the previous monk. 519 00:33:57,790 --> 00:33:59,190 OK. 520 00:33:59,190 --> 00:34:01,190 Can we come in? Yeah. This is the bedroom. 521 00:34:02,150 --> 00:34:05,870 When Maxim first lived atop the pillar, he slept in an old fridge. 522 00:34:07,030 --> 00:34:10,630 Since then, the buildings have been renovated, 523 00:34:10,630 --> 00:34:12,190 but they still lack certain luxuries. 524 00:34:32,710 --> 00:34:35,270 I found the biggest long drop in history. 525 00:34:35,270 --> 00:34:37,750 What an incredible place? 526 00:34:43,430 --> 00:34:45,750 Over the next 150 miles, 527 00:34:45,750 --> 00:34:49,030 we'll be stepping through Soviet industrial towns 528 00:34:49,030 --> 00:34:50,750 and an ancient cliff city... 529 00:34:52,590 --> 00:34:55,990 as we try to reach the edge of country number four, Armenia. 530 00:35:03,830 --> 00:35:04,950 Yeah, no problem. 531 00:35:06,990 --> 00:35:08,150 What's she got? Potatoes? 532 00:35:09,910 --> 00:35:11,510 This is potatoes, yes. 533 00:35:14,910 --> 00:35:18,510 What's the weight limit on this bridge? 534 00:35:18,510 --> 00:35:20,230 It's a bit creaky. 535 00:35:26,030 --> 00:35:27,830 Is that OK? 536 00:35:32,910 --> 00:35:35,270 Oh! What's your name? 537 00:35:35,270 --> 00:35:37,070 Liza? OK, Lev. 538 00:35:37,070 --> 00:35:41,470 Nice to meet you. 539 00:35:44,630 --> 00:35:48,030 We're now approaching the old Soviet mining town of Chiatura. 540 00:35:49,710 --> 00:35:53,910 This was Part of the Soviet Union's industrial heartland, until the '90s. 541 00:35:56,590 --> 00:35:59,630 That is a raging river. 542 00:36:01,150 --> 00:36:05,390 Chiatura once produced 60% of the world's manganese, 543 00:36:05,390 --> 00:36:08,270 a mineral used in bulletproof vests and tanks, 544 00:36:09,470 --> 00:36:13,510 but When the Soviet Union collapsed, so did the mining industry. 545 00:36:13,510 --> 00:36:14,870 It's quite a spooky place. 546 00:36:18,390 --> 00:36:22,270 Today, over half the people here are unemployed. 547 00:36:22,270 --> 00:36:25,070 And locals like Mina have been left destitute. 548 00:36:25,070 --> 00:36:26,870 So you live here? 549 00:36:44,870 --> 00:36:47,190 Was it better during the Soviet times? 550 00:36:58,630 --> 00:37:01,230 Thank you, ma'am. Thank you very much. 551 00:37:01,230 --> 00:37:02,470 Have a good day. 552 00:37:02,470 --> 00:37:04,110 VOICEOVER: As a widow, 553 00:37:04,110 --> 00:37:05,710 Mina receives £35 a month in welfare. 554 00:37:06,830 --> 00:37:08,830 But Georgia's unemployed don't get a penny. 555 00:37:12,430 --> 00:37:13,350 How are you? 556 00:37:15,870 --> 00:37:16,830 How are you? 557 00:37:19,030 --> 00:37:20,110 Um... English. 558 00:37:24,950 --> 00:37:27,390 This man is a miner, who's been out of work for a decade. 559 00:37:29,510 --> 00:37:32,190 Even though he is penniless, he still wants to share 560 00:37:32,190 --> 00:37:34,430 the last of his home brew. 561 00:37:34,430 --> 00:37:36,830 Thank you very much. 562 00:37:38,590 --> 00:37:39,550 Wow! 563 00:37:43,070 --> 00:37:46,110 Oh, yeah, this is chacha. 564 00:37:46,110 --> 00:37:48,190 Pure alcohol. 565 00:37:48,190 --> 00:37:50,590 It's like burning my eyes out. 566 00:38:00,910 --> 00:38:02,470 My tongue's gone numb. 567 00:38:03,910 --> 00:38:05,350 It's very powerful! 568 00:38:08,070 --> 00:38:09,030 Thank you very much. 569 00:38:11,230 --> 00:38:14,110 Georgia is increasingly looking towards the West, 570 00:38:14,110 --> 00:38:17,430 trying to become a part of Europe and move away from Russia. 571 00:38:17,430 --> 00:38:20,630 But this is abject poverty. 572 00:38:20,630 --> 00:38:24,350 I mean, we complain about things back home but looking at the standards here, 573 00:38:24,350 --> 00:38:28,150 these apartment blocks are just falling apart. 574 00:38:28,150 --> 00:38:30,390 No gas or electricity... 575 00:38:30,390 --> 00:38:32,830 People have to go outside to use toilets. 576 00:38:36,510 --> 00:38:38,190 Incredible. 577 00:38:50,050 --> 00:38:53,650 I'm in Georgia with my guide and friend Lasha. 578 00:38:53,650 --> 00:38:56,610 We heading for the village of Khertvisi, 579 00:38:56,610 --> 00:38:58,290 and it's not the first time I've been here. 580 00:38:59,410 --> 00:39:03,130 The main reason I remember this place was because I actually 581 00:39:03,130 --> 00:39:06,530 slept on a bench at the side of the road in, like, a bus stop. 582 00:39:06,530 --> 00:39:08,650 In fact, it is... 583 00:39:08,650 --> 00:39:11,570 It's still there. Here we go. 584 00:39:11,570 --> 00:39:12,810 Brings back a lot of memories. 585 00:39:15,450 --> 00:39:17,730 Yeah, I was lying here, 586 00:39:17,730 --> 00:39:22,090 and all I remember was just as I was falling asleep, one of the guys 587 00:39:22,090 --> 00:39:24,570 basically ordered me to go into his house, 588 00:39:24,570 --> 00:39:27,370 and I remember it was about 200 metres that way. 589 00:39:27,370 --> 00:39:30,450 He pulled out a bottle of chacha, the local booze, 590 00:39:30,450 --> 00:39:34,170 and he just fed me chacha for three days solid. 591 00:39:39,250 --> 00:39:40,810 His name was Gotcha. 592 00:39:40,810 --> 00:39:43,010 I'm going to go and see if he still lives there. 593 00:39:43,010 --> 00:39:44,810 Do you know a man called Gotcha? 594 00:39:44,810 --> 00:39:46,010 Gotcha? Gotcha. 595 00:39:46,010 --> 00:39:47,690 Here? He's still here? 596 00:39:52,490 --> 00:39:54,370 Can we see? Yeah, yeah. 597 00:39:58,530 --> 00:40:00,610 This one? Yes, this is it. 598 00:40:00,610 --> 00:40:02,370 This is it. Yeah, yeah, yeah, I remember. 599 00:40:08,010 --> 00:40:09,250 You are Gotcha's wife? 600 00:40:09,250 --> 00:40:10,610 Yes, Gotcha's wife. 601 00:40:10,610 --> 00:40:12,210 Ah, nice to meet you. Hello. 602 00:40:12,210 --> 00:40:14,170 Hi. My name is Lev. 603 00:40:14,170 --> 00:40:17,130 Tea has been married to Gotcha for seven years. 604 00:40:17,130 --> 00:40:19,210 Is Gotcha in? 605 00:40:20,690 --> 00:40:21,770 Gotcha! 606 00:40:24,730 --> 00:40:25,850 He's here, is he? 607 00:40:27,090 --> 00:40:28,930 He probably won't remember me but... 608 00:40:31,090 --> 00:40:32,050 Gotcha! Oh! 609 00:40:33,370 --> 00:40:34,610 Do you remember me? 610 00:40:38,490 --> 00:40:41,330 2004, 13 years ago! 611 00:40:41,330 --> 00:40:43,810 Oh, oh, oh, oh. 612 00:40:43,810 --> 00:40:44,970 Ah, England! Do you remember? 613 00:40:46,330 --> 00:40:49,050 Chacha. Yeah. I was... Yeah, yeah, chacha. 614 00:41:06,450 --> 00:41:08,490 Is he talking about when I ran away? 615 00:41:08,490 --> 00:41:12,530 Cos I left, I left a note because he basically kept me drinking 616 00:41:12,530 --> 00:41:14,930 for three days so I needed to escape 617 00:41:14,930 --> 00:41:17,810 and he had a big dog in the garden so I had to 618 00:41:17,810 --> 00:41:21,650 climb out of his back window and run over those fences. 619 00:41:21,650 --> 00:41:23,770 Hello. 620 00:41:23,770 --> 00:41:27,570 Oh! And escape, before he gave me any more chacha. 621 00:41:27,570 --> 00:41:28,490 What? 622 00:41:32,850 --> 00:41:34,490 I was trying to get out of here! 623 00:41:34,490 --> 00:41:36,370 I thought I was kidnapped! 624 00:41:43,250 --> 00:41:44,890 I wanted to... I wanted to surprise you. 625 00:41:44,890 --> 00:41:46,690 I didn't know if you still lived here. 626 00:41:47,770 --> 00:41:51,930 Gotcha is now the proud dad to two girls and a boy. 627 00:41:51,930 --> 00:41:52,890 Cheers. 628 00:41:54,850 --> 00:41:56,410 But he still finds time for a drink. 629 00:42:00,330 --> 00:42:02,490 It was a hospitality kidnap. 630 00:42:02,490 --> 00:42:04,250 Three days. 631 00:42:04,250 --> 00:42:05,770 I had the worst hangover. 632 00:42:08,130 --> 00:42:11,050 Thank you very much. Good to see you again. 633 00:42:11,050 --> 00:42:12,490 Look after yourself. 634 00:42:27,330 --> 00:42:31,450 We are 35 miles from the Armenian border, in the Javakheti region, 635 00:42:31,450 --> 00:42:35,130 home to some of the Caucasus' most stunning landscapes. 636 00:42:36,450 --> 00:42:38,690 So green and lush. 637 00:42:38,690 --> 00:42:43,490 Some 800 years ago, this was a major trade route, linking Russia to Iran. 638 00:42:44,850 --> 00:42:47,330 Countless armies fought to control it, 639 00:42:47,330 --> 00:42:49,570 including the ferocious Mongol Empire, 640 00:42:49,570 --> 00:42:52,490 who sent the Georgians running for the hills. 641 00:42:52,490 --> 00:42:53,650 Oh, wow! 642 00:42:55,210 --> 00:42:59,290 This is Vardzia, the ancient cave complex. 643 00:42:59,290 --> 00:43:02,730 A nice place. Yes, Lev. 644 00:43:02,730 --> 00:43:05,890 These caves have existed since the Bronze Age 645 00:43:05,890 --> 00:43:09,690 but were vastly expanded by Queen Tamar in the 12th century... 646 00:43:11,010 --> 00:43:14,090 ..successfully keeping out the Mongol hordes. 647 00:43:14,090 --> 00:43:18,570 People have been living in these caves for over 2,000 years. 648 00:43:20,330 --> 00:43:24,810 It was once a thriving community of up to 50,000 people, 649 00:43:24,810 --> 00:43:29,730 completely hidden from view before being partially destroyed by an earthquake. 650 00:43:30,930 --> 00:43:33,250 You can see these enormous boulders here, 651 00:43:33,250 --> 00:43:36,770 these are what would have covered the whole frontage of this cliff face 652 00:43:36,770 --> 00:43:38,330 before the earthquake. 653 00:43:38,330 --> 00:43:40,730 Queen Tamar ensured her subjects 654 00:43:40,730 --> 00:43:43,050 were protected and well looked after. 655 00:43:44,610 --> 00:43:51,130 Carved into the rock are 6,000 separate rooms, including stables, forges, 656 00:43:51,130 --> 00:43:53,810 a pharmacy, and 25 wine cellars. 657 00:43:54,930 --> 00:43:56,090 Is it locked? 658 00:43:56,090 --> 00:43:57,490 I don't know. I'll check. 659 00:43:57,490 --> 00:43:59,570 No, it's open. 660 00:43:59,570 --> 00:44:00,770 Hope we don't get lost in here. 661 00:44:04,770 --> 00:44:06,210 Oh, wow. 662 00:44:09,570 --> 00:44:11,370 A dead end. 663 00:44:11,370 --> 00:44:14,170 It is a complete rabbit warren of tunnels and caves and... 664 00:44:16,130 --> 00:44:18,530 Which way do we go? 665 00:44:18,530 --> 00:44:19,730 This way. Let's go this way. 666 00:44:19,730 --> 00:44:21,290 Yep. 667 00:44:25,050 --> 00:44:26,890 Lasha. 668 00:44:26,890 --> 00:44:28,850 I am here, my friend. 669 00:44:36,010 --> 00:44:37,330 Made it. 670 00:44:37,330 --> 00:44:38,930 Straight through the mountain. 671 00:44:43,690 --> 00:44:47,250 We've just 10 miles to go to the Armenian border. 672 00:44:47,250 --> 00:44:49,610 This is one of the poorest regions of the country. 673 00:44:51,250 --> 00:44:55,570 And with little in the way of investment, the locals get creative. 674 00:44:55,570 --> 00:45:01,050 Oh, my God! A train carriage has found its way across a bridge. 675 00:45:01,050 --> 00:45:02,810 I've got absolutely no idea how it got there. 676 00:45:04,250 --> 00:45:07,090 Well, when there's only one way to get across the river, 677 00:45:07,090 --> 00:45:09,330 you have just got to take it. 678 00:45:09,330 --> 00:45:10,450 Let's go? Yes. 679 00:45:14,610 --> 00:45:16,050 Be careful. 680 00:45:19,170 --> 00:45:22,650 Bloody hell. 681 00:45:25,730 --> 00:45:27,890 Watch your feet. 682 00:45:33,050 --> 00:45:34,610 What did you think of that? 683 00:45:34,610 --> 00:45:36,250 This is a very dangerous bridge. 684 00:45:47,770 --> 00:45:50,330 13 years after my first visit, 685 00:45:50,330 --> 00:45:53,730 it's time once more to say goodbye to Georgia and Lasha. 686 00:45:55,970 --> 00:45:58,210 Oh, Lasha, I'm going to miss you. 687 00:45:59,490 --> 00:46:00,450 Yes. 688 00:46:12,770 --> 00:46:14,650 Well, mate, this is the end of the road. 689 00:46:16,170 --> 00:46:17,690 This is where I have to say goodbye. 690 00:46:20,890 --> 00:46:22,930 Take care. 691 00:46:25,050 --> 00:46:27,450 OK. Goodbye, Lasha. 692 00:46:27,450 --> 00:46:30,130 Take care. Bye. 693 00:46:31,570 --> 00:46:33,810 Now, after 1,600 miles and three countries... 694 00:46:35,770 --> 00:46:38,010 I'm approaching the final leg of my journey. 695 00:46:40,890 --> 00:46:41,850 Next time... 696 00:46:43,370 --> 00:46:45,810 ..I enter Armenia... 697 00:46:45,810 --> 00:46:47,170 We'll take the long route round. 698 00:46:47,170 --> 00:46:48,970 ..and a forgotten war zone... 699 00:46:48,970 --> 00:46:50,850 We are being taken right to the front line. 700 00:46:50,850 --> 00:46:53,290 ..before crossing into Iran. 701 00:46:53,290 --> 00:46:54,970 You can feel the altitude here. 702 00:46:54,970 --> 00:46:57,490 A mystical land of ancient cultures... 703 00:46:58,530 --> 00:46:59,810 ..and extraordinary people. 704 00:47:02,410 --> 00:47:04,090 As I try to reach... 705 00:47:04,090 --> 00:47:06,650 Our minder is still following us, watching our every move. 706 00:47:06,650 --> 00:47:08,650 ..my journey's end. 707 00:47:13,250 --> 00:47:16,850 Subtitles by Ericsson