1 00:00:05,300 --> 00:00:06,300 South Korea. 2 00:00:08,380 --> 00:00:11,860 Global powerhouse, economic miracle... 3 00:00:12,980 --> 00:00:15,460 ..yet it's smaller than England. 4 00:00:15,460 --> 00:00:17,300 And it's only 70 years old, 5 00:00:17,300 --> 00:00:19,740 younger than David Hasselhoff. 6 00:00:19,740 --> 00:00:21,780 Right now, it seems the world 7 00:00:21,780 --> 00:00:24,780 can't get enough of all things South Korea. 8 00:00:24,780 --> 00:00:25,820 K-Pop. 9 00:00:25,820 --> 00:00:27,260 Gangnam Style. 10 00:00:27,260 --> 00:00:28,460 K-Drama. 11 00:00:30,180 --> 00:00:31,700 K-everything. 12 00:00:31,700 --> 00:00:34,780 There are options at every turn. 13 00:00:34,780 --> 00:00:38,540 But I want to go deeper and find out more about its incredible 14 00:00:38,540 --> 00:00:39,940 history and culture. 15 00:00:42,140 --> 00:00:44,700 I discover the origins of Squid Game... 16 00:00:46,180 --> 00:00:49,300 ..feed myself into the K-Pop machine... 17 00:00:49,300 --> 00:00:51,460 ..and meet Korea's YouTube sensations. 18 00:00:51,460 --> 00:00:53,420 LOUD SLURPING 19 00:00:53,420 --> 00:00:57,860 This is a country with its own unique way of doing things, 20 00:00:57,860 --> 00:00:58,940 in life... 21 00:00:58,940 --> 00:01:00,380 You are dying today. 22 00:01:00,380 --> 00:01:01,980 ..and the afterlife. 23 00:01:03,460 --> 00:01:04,780 It's just staggering. 24 00:01:04,780 --> 00:01:07,140 Welcome to my ultimate K-Adventure. 25 00:01:20,820 --> 00:01:23,900 After 15 spirit-crushing hours on an aeroplane, 26 00:01:23,900 --> 00:01:25,900 I've made it. 27 00:01:25,900 --> 00:01:30,420 And though it's after midnight here, it's mid-afternoon back home, 28 00:01:30,420 --> 00:01:33,260 so tired I am not. 29 00:01:33,260 --> 00:01:37,420 I hear Seoul is a 24-hour city, so, ooh, it should still be open. 30 00:01:38,860 --> 00:01:40,620 On our way. It's very exciting. 31 00:01:40,620 --> 00:01:43,900 My favourite moment of any new city is arriving, particularly at night, 32 00:01:43,900 --> 00:01:46,700 when you're trying to gauge what it's like. 33 00:01:46,700 --> 00:01:48,100 I have no idea. 34 00:01:49,140 --> 00:01:53,740 South Korea is the 109th biggest country in the world, 35 00:01:53,740 --> 00:01:56,060 so not very big. 36 00:01:56,060 --> 00:01:58,860 But half its population crams into Seoul, 37 00:01:58,860 --> 00:02:03,460 which lies just 30 miles from the border with North Korea. 38 00:02:03,460 --> 00:02:07,300 The buzzing heart of this metropolis is Gangnam, which literally means 39 00:02:07,300 --> 00:02:08,660 south of the river. 40 00:02:08,660 --> 00:02:09,980 # Oppan Gangnam Style 41 00:02:12,580 --> 00:02:13,700 # Gangnam Style... # 42 00:02:18,580 --> 00:02:20,980 Well, this is terrific. 43 00:02:22,060 --> 00:02:25,140 We have arrived in Gangnam. 44 00:02:25,140 --> 00:02:27,260 # Oppan Gangnam Style... # 45 00:02:28,540 --> 00:02:30,740 This is very exciting indeed. 46 00:02:30,740 --> 00:02:33,820 Erm... HE CHUCKLES 47 00:02:33,820 --> 00:02:35,700 I mean, why not? Why not? 48 00:02:36,860 --> 00:02:39,940 Smart, pointy cars vying for attention. 49 00:02:42,260 --> 00:02:45,580 Don't know who's going to win this face-off at the junction here, 50 00:02:45,580 --> 00:02:47,900 but all kinds of exciting things. 51 00:02:49,540 --> 00:02:53,140 I mean, there are options at every turn. 52 00:02:53,140 --> 00:02:55,700 Where could I possibly go? Where? 53 00:02:58,700 --> 00:03:01,100 It reminds me a little bit of Leicester Square, 54 00:03:01,100 --> 00:03:03,980 but it's sort of not. It's more buzzy than Leicester Square. 55 00:03:03,980 --> 00:03:05,820 Everything here is new and of the moment. 56 00:03:05,820 --> 00:03:07,420 There's a real fizz about it. 57 00:03:07,420 --> 00:03:09,300 Everybody wants to be here. 58 00:03:09,300 --> 00:03:11,180 So many things to catch your eye. 59 00:03:11,180 --> 00:03:14,700 And everywhere you walk, you feel another unce-unce from yet another 60 00:03:14,700 --> 00:03:16,180 massive sound system. 61 00:03:17,300 --> 00:03:20,980 I mean, it's...it's a real assault on the senses. 62 00:03:20,980 --> 00:03:22,300 It's very exciting. 63 00:03:27,460 --> 00:03:30,820 Next morning, it's time to see the city by day. 64 00:03:30,820 --> 00:03:35,060 Seoul is one of the great Asian cities, yet not that long ago 65 00:03:35,060 --> 00:03:38,020 it was a wasteland after the Korean War. 66 00:03:38,020 --> 00:03:39,620 But now... 67 00:03:39,620 --> 00:03:41,820 What I can't get over is how beautiful it looks. 68 00:03:41,820 --> 00:03:46,180 Who knew that high-rise could look so extraordinarily striking? 69 00:03:46,180 --> 00:03:47,620 But look at this, 70 00:03:47,620 --> 00:03:49,660 look at these sort of aggressive vertical lines, 71 00:03:49,660 --> 00:03:51,860 almost like a sort of living barcode there, 72 00:03:51,860 --> 00:03:54,060 spread across, and something crystalline, 73 00:03:54,060 --> 00:03:56,540 something a little bit like the Giant's Causeway... 74 00:03:56,540 --> 00:03:57,940 HE MAKES WHOOSHING NOISE 75 00:03:57,940 --> 00:04:00,460 ..with all these columns everywhere you look, 76 00:04:00,460 --> 00:04:02,620 and the multitude of different colours 77 00:04:02,620 --> 00:04:04,580 and shades of white and black, 78 00:04:04,580 --> 00:04:06,140 as far as you can see, 79 00:04:06,140 --> 00:04:09,460 I mean, miles and miles of it over in that direction 80 00:04:09,460 --> 00:04:12,100 with the mountains springing up in among. 81 00:04:12,100 --> 00:04:13,860 It's extraordinary. 82 00:04:13,860 --> 00:04:17,060 26 million people live in the greater Seoul area. 83 00:04:17,060 --> 00:04:19,820 To give you an idea, the Greater London area, 84 00:04:19,820 --> 00:04:21,820 nine, maybe nine and a half million. 85 00:04:21,820 --> 00:04:22,940 It's staggering. 86 00:04:26,860 --> 00:04:29,740 Down below, on Seoul's super-wide streets, 87 00:04:29,740 --> 00:04:32,940 the scale of the place is no less overwhelming. 88 00:04:36,100 --> 00:04:40,460 Everybody seems to be pushing, toiling and sweating away, 89 00:04:40,460 --> 00:04:43,620 fuelling what's known as the economic miracle. 90 00:04:44,740 --> 00:04:49,220 Financiers, company bosses, designers, chefs, and, of course, 91 00:04:49,220 --> 00:04:51,060 stars of stage and screen... 92 00:04:52,540 --> 00:04:54,540 ..especially the small screen. 93 00:05:06,980 --> 00:05:09,740 Most of what certainly I knew about South Korea said, 94 00:05:09,740 --> 00:05:13,940 probably most all of us know about South Korea, is its online thing, 95 00:05:13,940 --> 00:05:15,820 the YouTube phenomenon. 96 00:05:15,820 --> 00:05:18,140 They've made a brilliant thing of commoditising 97 00:05:18,140 --> 00:05:20,340 every little compartment of their culture. 98 00:05:20,340 --> 00:05:22,300 And we've all got to know, and we love it. 99 00:05:22,300 --> 00:05:26,260 I'm listening to a woman who has millions of people who follow her 100 00:05:26,260 --> 00:05:28,740 and she records herself eating. 101 00:05:30,460 --> 00:05:34,100 Welcome to one of the most searched for Korean online trends - 102 00:05:34,100 --> 00:05:38,020 it's called mukbang, which means eating broadcast. 103 00:05:40,700 --> 00:05:42,100 I sort of get it. 104 00:05:42,100 --> 00:05:47,580 I've come to meet one of Korea's best known YouTubers in the flesh. 105 00:05:47,580 --> 00:05:49,740 Her name is Heebab. 106 00:05:49,740 --> 00:05:51,580 Oh, hi! Hello! Hello! 107 00:05:51,580 --> 00:05:54,740 She's been a mukbang star for the past two years. 108 00:05:54,740 --> 00:05:57,500 Do you spend a lot of time on the treadmill? You must be fit. 109 00:05:57,500 --> 00:06:00,380 It's so hard! Yeah. Well done. 110 00:06:00,380 --> 00:06:03,180 Today, I will eat this. 111 00:06:04,740 --> 00:06:06,540 OK. 112 00:06:06,540 --> 00:06:08,940 Do you like some spicy food? 113 00:06:08,940 --> 00:06:11,620 Yeah, I love some spicy food. Then... 114 00:06:11,620 --> 00:06:12,980 I'm going to join in! 115 00:06:12,980 --> 00:06:15,860 It's been, what, 20 minutes since lunch? 116 00:06:15,860 --> 00:06:17,300 Oh! 117 00:06:17,300 --> 00:06:20,980 Heebab holds the slightly queasy Korean record 118 00:06:20,980 --> 00:06:23,740 for eating 20 bowls of noodles in 30 minutes. 119 00:06:25,340 --> 00:06:28,420 So, how did this start? 120 00:06:37,660 --> 00:06:40,620 Hmm. You could do much better indeed! 121 00:06:40,620 --> 00:06:43,980 Heebab is now one of the most popular mukbang stars in the world, 122 00:06:43,980 --> 00:06:46,340 with over 1.2 million followers. 123 00:06:49,620 --> 00:06:52,140 Shall I open these? Yeah. 124 00:06:53,700 --> 00:06:56,300 Yeah, put some... OK, in they go. 125 00:06:57,660 --> 00:06:58,940 SpongeBob. 126 00:06:58,940 --> 00:07:01,060 SHE LAUGHS SpongeBob! 127 00:07:02,460 --> 00:07:03,980 This can't be healthy! 128 00:07:05,980 --> 00:07:08,780 Oh, good! They've doubled in size. 129 00:07:08,780 --> 00:07:11,260 Oh! Wow! Look at that. I'm more than ready. 130 00:07:16,820 --> 00:07:20,220 In Korea, it's rude to bite noodles. 131 00:07:20,220 --> 00:07:22,380 Mm! Very good. 132 00:07:22,380 --> 00:07:24,420 You think it's hilarious, my eating? 133 00:07:24,420 --> 00:07:25,740 Like a child! 134 00:07:25,740 --> 00:07:28,020 No, not hilarious, just rude. 135 00:07:28,020 --> 00:07:30,900 Noodles must be slurped with as much vigour as possible. 136 00:07:30,900 --> 00:07:34,180 Slurping is also said to lead to a longer life. 137 00:07:34,180 --> 00:07:37,100 The way you eat that noodle is just incredible. 138 00:07:37,100 --> 00:07:40,820 Like a Dyson. 139 00:07:40,820 --> 00:07:44,980 An adult human requires about 2,000 calories a day. 140 00:07:46,500 --> 00:07:51,260 But a typical mukbanger gets through an unhealthy 4,000 in one sitting. 141 00:07:51,260 --> 00:07:53,500 I mean, it's amazing! 142 00:07:53,500 --> 00:07:55,140 I mean, you're very thin. 143 00:08:01,900 --> 00:08:03,420 I think I've had enough. 144 00:08:04,620 --> 00:08:06,260 I know. It's pathetic. 145 00:08:11,140 --> 00:08:13,260 How much do you spend a month on food? 146 00:08:17,940 --> 00:08:20,060 That's more than we spend on a family of six! 147 00:08:22,180 --> 00:08:24,380 How long is it going to take you to eat all of that lot? 148 00:08:24,380 --> 00:08:27,580 Oh, three minutes. Three minutes? Yeah. OK, you're on. 149 00:08:42,860 --> 00:08:45,780 There are millions of people around the world that would pay good money 150 00:08:45,780 --> 00:08:48,020 to be sitting where I'm sitting right now, 151 00:08:48,020 --> 00:08:50,300 like sharing a stage with the Rolling Stones. 152 00:08:50,300 --> 00:08:52,380 Oh! Noodle solo. 153 00:08:52,380 --> 00:08:54,900 Don't try this at home, kids. Let's leave it to the... 154 00:08:54,900 --> 00:08:56,780 ..professionals - is that the right word? 155 00:08:56,780 --> 00:08:58,940 That was actually two minutes 40, so very impressive. 156 00:09:01,100 --> 00:09:03,420 Wow! Thank you so much. 157 00:09:04,500 --> 00:09:08,020 Coming up, public transport - Korean style. 158 00:09:08,020 --> 00:09:10,660 I literally want to eat my breakfast off that floor. 159 00:09:10,660 --> 00:09:13,940 Why Koreans never take their foot off the gas. 160 00:09:13,940 --> 00:09:16,100 Keeping up with the Joneses can be applied 161 00:09:16,100 --> 00:09:17,700 to the Korean people, as well. 162 00:09:18,740 --> 00:09:20,420 And I work on my Gangnam Style 163 00:09:20,420 --> 00:09:23,300 with one of the biggest new K-pop bands. 164 00:09:23,300 --> 00:09:25,060 THEY SING 165 00:09:25,060 --> 00:09:27,220 My K-pop career is just beginning. 166 00:09:27,220 --> 00:09:29,180 THEY CHEER 167 00:09:37,260 --> 00:09:39,060 If capitalism's your thing, 168 00:09:39,060 --> 00:09:42,140 then South Korea is one of its greatest triumphs. 169 00:09:44,020 --> 00:09:47,420 Over the last 100 years, Korea's been occupied by Japan, 170 00:09:47,420 --> 00:09:50,420 divided into communist north and democratic south 171 00:09:50,420 --> 00:09:52,780 and ravaged by war and dictatorship. 172 00:09:55,660 --> 00:09:57,620 Then, in the blink of an eye, 173 00:09:57,620 --> 00:10:01,420 the south reinvented itself as an economic superpower. 174 00:10:05,340 --> 00:10:08,180 Korea has no natural resources, 175 00:10:08,180 --> 00:10:12,020 it has no mineral wealth, it just has this - 176 00:10:12,020 --> 00:10:15,100 a fantastic collective endeavour. 177 00:10:15,100 --> 00:10:19,100 Everybody being enthusiastic and saying, "Let's chuck our lot in, 178 00:10:19,100 --> 00:10:23,260 "let's do this together, let's make this country fantastic". 179 00:10:26,940 --> 00:10:31,420 In the 1960s, South Korea was one of the poorest countries on Earth. 180 00:10:32,820 --> 00:10:35,980 Today, it's the world's 10th biggest economy. 181 00:10:37,060 --> 00:10:39,260 I'm on my way to meet a well-known writer 182 00:10:39,260 --> 00:10:42,620 to get his perspective on the Korean attitude to life. 183 00:10:44,220 --> 00:10:46,940 Now, I always think the public transport system 184 00:10:46,940 --> 00:10:49,340 is a brilliant indicator of a country's character. 185 00:10:53,100 --> 00:10:55,460 Several things occurred to me, just looking down the middle of 186 00:10:55,460 --> 00:10:57,940 the train here, this is like a sort of hospital corridor, isn't it? 187 00:10:57,940 --> 00:10:59,260 Look how clean it is! 188 00:10:59,260 --> 00:11:02,540 I literally want to eat my breakfast off that floor. 189 00:11:02,540 --> 00:11:06,500 Beautiful broad carriages, lovely, clear fresh air. 190 00:11:06,500 --> 00:11:10,580 And, evidently, fabulous broadband connectivity, as well. 191 00:11:10,580 --> 00:11:12,980 And if you haven't got anything else to entertain you, 192 00:11:12,980 --> 00:11:15,500 you've got these wonderful cartoons up here. 193 00:11:15,500 --> 00:11:17,180 They're imparting all kinds of wisdom, 194 00:11:17,180 --> 00:11:19,500 things like don't scramble around for your mobile 195 00:11:19,500 --> 00:11:21,780 if you drop it on the train line. 196 00:11:21,780 --> 00:11:24,700 Don't get your bags caught in the doors, 197 00:11:24,700 --> 00:11:27,860 don't jump down stairs because you might hurt your knees. 198 00:11:27,860 --> 00:11:29,900 All kinds of wisdom. 199 00:11:29,900 --> 00:11:32,820 25 million people travel around on this 200 00:11:32,820 --> 00:11:35,100 and that's just the people who live here. 201 00:11:35,100 --> 00:11:37,740 If you add on people like us, who are just coming to stay... 202 00:11:43,420 --> 00:11:45,860 To help me understand what it's like to live 203 00:11:45,860 --> 00:11:47,740 in this workaholics' paradise 204 00:11:47,740 --> 00:11:52,140 is Woosung Kang, author of the Korean Culture Dictionary. 205 00:11:52,140 --> 00:11:55,580 Eating out is such a big part of life here. 206 00:11:55,580 --> 00:11:59,060 We're meeting at a fabulous Korean barbecue restaurant. 207 00:11:59,060 --> 00:12:01,580 How do you like your meat cooked? 208 00:12:01,580 --> 00:12:04,500 Um...I would say probably medium rare. 209 00:12:04,500 --> 00:12:07,620 OK. Yeah. It doesn't take long, does it? 210 00:12:07,620 --> 00:12:10,940 People come here after work, do they? Is that the idea? 211 00:12:10,940 --> 00:12:13,780 Right. So these places are known for their efficiency 212 00:12:13,780 --> 00:12:16,580 because, you know, everything's served really fast, right? 213 00:12:16,580 --> 00:12:19,660 Yeah. And they are easier on your wallet, too. 214 00:12:19,660 --> 00:12:22,900 That's why these are usually clustered around office buildings. 215 00:12:22,900 --> 00:12:25,660 They want a quick bite and maybe a bottle of beer, right? 216 00:12:25,660 --> 00:12:27,700 I was reading some extraordinary statistic 217 00:12:27,700 --> 00:12:30,580 that, actually, Koreans drink an awful lot. Right. 218 00:12:30,580 --> 00:12:33,780 Well, we work hard and we let our emotions out 219 00:12:33,780 --> 00:12:36,860 by interacting with other people, and drinks, as well. 220 00:12:36,860 --> 00:12:39,300 This is all part of bringing everyone together, right? 221 00:12:39,300 --> 00:12:41,460 So that's how we vent. 222 00:12:41,460 --> 00:12:43,780 Koreans do work incredibly hard. 223 00:12:43,780 --> 00:12:46,540 I mean, that's what this whole country is built on. 224 00:12:46,540 --> 00:12:48,740 An extraordinary enterprise. 225 00:12:48,740 --> 00:12:50,900 I mean, do people work too hard, do you think? 226 00:12:50,900 --> 00:12:52,380 Do they get the balance right? 227 00:12:52,380 --> 00:12:55,500 The peer pressure they get, you know, that's enormous. 228 00:12:55,500 --> 00:12:57,900 So keeping up with the Joneses 229 00:12:57,900 --> 00:13:00,140 can be applied to the Korean people, as well, right? 230 00:13:00,140 --> 00:13:02,340 In order to stay competitive. 231 00:13:02,340 --> 00:13:05,260 That extends to the population at large. 232 00:13:05,260 --> 00:13:07,780 It's not just K-pop stars who look good. 233 00:13:07,780 --> 00:13:09,980 To succeed in a rat race like this, 234 00:13:09,980 --> 00:13:13,860 you must do everything you can to keep up appearances. 235 00:13:13,860 --> 00:13:15,900 You know, looks is very important. 236 00:13:15,900 --> 00:13:19,700 That's why our cosmetics industry is thriving, right? 237 00:13:19,700 --> 00:13:21,900 So, you applied for a job, right, but you didn't get it. 238 00:13:21,900 --> 00:13:24,100 Some people will say, "Oh, maybe, you know, 239 00:13:24,100 --> 00:13:25,980 "that forehead, you know, that's..." 240 00:13:25,980 --> 00:13:29,380 Oh, I must get those ears seen to! 241 00:13:29,380 --> 00:13:31,580 Actually, why not? So good luck to you, yeah. 242 00:13:31,580 --> 00:13:34,820 Even men, too. I'm not putting... I don't have any make-up on, 243 00:13:34,820 --> 00:13:37,140 but you have to do something to stand out. 244 00:13:37,140 --> 00:13:40,700 And making yourself more confident, 245 00:13:40,700 --> 00:13:43,580 you become someone who you aspire to be, right? 246 00:13:46,460 --> 00:13:50,180 Everything about Korea and Koreans just feels shiny, fresh, 247 00:13:50,180 --> 00:13:53,020 clean, possibly synthetic. 248 00:13:53,020 --> 00:13:55,260 It's a huge part of the appeal of this thing 249 00:13:55,260 --> 00:13:58,580 the rest of the world can't seem to get enough of. 250 00:13:58,580 --> 00:14:03,580 K-culture or Hallyu just seems to make us feel good. 251 00:14:03,580 --> 00:14:07,860 When people talk about Hallyu, this great Korean wave, 252 00:14:07,860 --> 00:14:11,220 well, surely the crest of that wave has to be K-pop. 253 00:14:11,220 --> 00:14:14,700 And if we were tempted to think that it maybe was a bit tacky 254 00:14:14,700 --> 00:14:16,260 and slightly throwaway, 255 00:14:16,260 --> 00:14:19,780 when PSY sang about Gangnam Style, 256 00:14:19,780 --> 00:14:21,940 we were forced to reappraise it. 257 00:14:21,940 --> 00:14:23,780 K-pop is now a massive phenomenon. 258 00:14:23,780 --> 00:14:26,980 So one of the things I've been really looking forward to doing 259 00:14:26,980 --> 00:14:29,220 is hurling myself into the world of K-pop. 260 00:14:29,220 --> 00:14:33,580 So I'm going to go and talk to one of the world's biggest girl bands, STAYC. 261 00:14:33,580 --> 00:14:35,900 # How do you think? How do you think? # 262 00:14:35,900 --> 00:14:39,980 I've been granted an exclusive meeting with the rising stars 263 00:14:39,980 --> 00:14:43,820 in a long line of Korean supergroups, STAYC. 264 00:14:43,820 --> 00:14:46,660 By all accounts, they're set to take the world by storm. 265 00:14:48,860 --> 00:14:51,140 The K-pop industry is estimated to be worth 266 00:14:51,140 --> 00:14:54,500 $5 billion a year in sales. 267 00:14:54,500 --> 00:14:58,860 I'm dying to find out just what it takes to be a K-pop superstar. 268 00:14:58,860 --> 00:15:01,740 Yay! Yay! Here they are! 269 00:15:01,740 --> 00:15:03,620 THEY WHOOP 270 00:15:05,700 --> 00:15:07,500 Welcome to our practise room. 271 00:15:07,500 --> 00:15:10,340 This is great. I love it! So, what are you going to do? 272 00:15:10,340 --> 00:15:13,380 We're going to rehearse our latest song, Run to You. 273 00:15:13,380 --> 00:15:15,180 Yeah? Yeah. We're ready. 274 00:15:15,180 --> 00:15:17,140 UPBEAT INSTRUMENTAL 275 00:15:28,660 --> 00:15:33,300 STAYC stands for Star To A Young Culture, 276 00:15:33,300 --> 00:15:35,220 obviously! 277 00:15:35,220 --> 00:15:37,740 They were formed after their record label announced 278 00:15:37,740 --> 00:15:40,180 it was putting together a K-pop girl group. 279 00:15:42,380 --> 00:15:45,380 They currently have 1.5 million Instagram followers, 280 00:15:45,380 --> 00:15:48,180 but that following is growing exponentially. 281 00:15:53,260 --> 00:15:55,780 After winning multiple TV music show awards, 282 00:15:55,780 --> 00:15:59,940 STAYC are hotly tipped to be the next global megastars. 283 00:16:03,300 --> 00:16:06,020 That doesn't need any more practise, that's great! 284 00:16:06,020 --> 00:16:09,620 OK. That's incredible! Phew! 285 00:16:09,620 --> 00:16:11,140 Congratulations! 286 00:16:11,140 --> 00:16:12,980 STAYC: Ah! 287 00:16:12,980 --> 00:16:17,420 You arrived on the scene with your first hit and it was huge! 288 00:16:17,420 --> 00:16:20,220 And ever since then, it has been stratospheric. 289 00:16:20,220 --> 00:16:22,700 Yeah. We finally made it. 290 00:16:22,700 --> 00:16:25,380 We were nervous, excited, happy, 291 00:16:25,380 --> 00:16:27,580 and it was so overwhelming. 292 00:16:27,580 --> 00:16:32,900 So Bad was the perfect song that expressed what STAYC's about, 293 00:16:32,900 --> 00:16:35,260 like, identity and charm and everything. 294 00:16:35,260 --> 00:16:38,100 So, like, So Bad was perfect in that way. 295 00:16:40,220 --> 00:16:44,260 The road to making it as a superstar is an uphill battle, as I well know, 296 00:16:44,260 --> 00:16:47,940 but there's an established system for producing K-pop bands. 297 00:16:47,940 --> 00:16:51,420 It takes years and years of training and preparation. 298 00:16:51,420 --> 00:16:52,740 Talk me through the training. 299 00:16:52,740 --> 00:16:54,620 Presumably, they're always watching you. 300 00:16:54,620 --> 00:16:56,380 Does anybody come along and say, 301 00:16:56,380 --> 00:16:58,420 "You need to work a bit harder at this"? 302 00:16:58,420 --> 00:17:02,380 Oh, yeah. There are teachers and there are producers, 303 00:17:02,380 --> 00:17:05,620 so they give us advice and encourage us. 304 00:17:05,620 --> 00:17:08,580 So, basically, do you audition for a K-pop career? 305 00:17:08,580 --> 00:17:10,140 Yeah, I had lots of auditions. 306 00:17:10,140 --> 00:17:12,460 There were talent scouts, I guess... Yeah, that's right. 307 00:17:12,460 --> 00:17:14,060 .."You're good, you're good." 308 00:17:14,060 --> 00:17:18,300 But success is never of the overnight variety in K-pop. 309 00:17:18,300 --> 00:17:21,060 And how long was STAYC in the making? 310 00:17:21,060 --> 00:17:26,100 I became a K-pop trainee when I was 13 311 00:17:26,100 --> 00:17:28,740 and I debuted at 20. 312 00:17:28,740 --> 00:17:30,460 Sure. 313 00:17:30,460 --> 00:17:32,300 Two years. Two years? Yes. 314 00:17:32,300 --> 00:17:33,580 You're a quick learner. Yes. 315 00:17:33,580 --> 00:17:35,660 Three years. Three years. 316 00:17:35,660 --> 00:17:38,820 It's an incredible achievement to make it as a K-pop star, 317 00:17:38,820 --> 00:17:40,820 beating millions of other hopefuls, 318 00:17:40,820 --> 00:17:44,620 yet the band seem to be taking it in their stride. 319 00:17:44,620 --> 00:17:47,380 If you're interested in K-pop culture 320 00:17:47,380 --> 00:17:49,900 and if you want to be a K-pop artist... 321 00:17:49,900 --> 00:17:52,860 So, you think I should have a crack at K-pop? Yeah! 322 00:17:52,860 --> 00:17:54,540 Really? Yeah, of course. 323 00:17:54,540 --> 00:17:56,460 You have to watch lots of videos, 324 00:17:56,460 --> 00:18:00,420 but I believe that you can make it. 325 00:18:01,620 --> 00:18:03,100 STAYC LAUGH Yeah. 326 00:18:03,100 --> 00:18:06,900 That is the most flattering thing I have ever been told! Tell me more. 327 00:18:06,900 --> 00:18:11,300 Wow! So our fans pick some animals for each of us. 328 00:18:11,300 --> 00:18:13,940 Sumin, she's a rabbit. 329 00:18:13,940 --> 00:18:15,700 Ah! 330 00:18:15,700 --> 00:18:17,140 Oh. Yeah. 331 00:18:17,140 --> 00:18:19,020 Puppy, tiger. 332 00:18:19,020 --> 00:18:21,060 Cat. Cat. Cat. 333 00:18:21,060 --> 00:18:22,780 Fox. Fox. 334 00:18:22,780 --> 00:18:25,180 And I was hamster. 335 00:18:25,180 --> 00:18:26,460 Why a hamster? 336 00:18:26,460 --> 00:18:28,620 I used to have blonde hair, 337 00:18:28,620 --> 00:18:32,100 so lots of fans called me, like, 338 00:18:32,100 --> 00:18:34,260 "Oh, you look like a cute hamster!" 339 00:18:34,260 --> 00:18:35,860 Aw! Yeah. 340 00:18:35,860 --> 00:18:38,380 Bear. Bear. Bear! 341 00:18:38,380 --> 00:18:40,380 Yeah. I'm polar bear? Yes. 342 00:18:40,380 --> 00:18:42,620 Oh, thank you very much indeed! 343 00:18:42,620 --> 00:18:44,340 Yes! Good! You could join us! 344 00:18:44,340 --> 00:18:45,700 I'm with you. 345 00:18:45,700 --> 00:18:47,300 What's a nice, easy bit? 346 00:18:47,300 --> 00:18:48,780 # A little bit, little bit. # 347 00:18:48,780 --> 00:18:50,100 Show me. 348 00:18:50,100 --> 00:18:52,900 I'm not sure I'd ever actually make it as a K-pop star. 349 00:18:52,900 --> 00:18:55,620 I'd fall at the first hurdle - dancing. 350 00:18:55,620 --> 00:19:00,420 It's really...it's really easy. Just move your shoulders, like this. 351 00:19:00,420 --> 00:19:01,860 Like.... 352 00:19:01,860 --> 00:19:03,620 # So I'll run to you 353 00:19:03,620 --> 00:19:06,260 # A little bit, little bit... # 354 00:19:06,260 --> 00:19:07,860 Change. 355 00:19:07,860 --> 00:19:10,620 # A little bit, little bit... # 356 00:19:10,620 --> 00:19:13,580 Actually, I take that back! 357 00:19:13,580 --> 00:19:15,260 I'm mesmerising! 358 00:19:15,260 --> 00:19:16,700 Yeah, that's it! 359 00:19:16,700 --> 00:19:18,340 THEY CHEER 360 00:19:18,340 --> 00:19:19,980 Oh, I'm as good as there! Wow! 361 00:19:19,980 --> 00:19:21,820 My K-pop career is just beginning. 362 00:19:21,820 --> 00:19:23,300 THEY CHEER 363 00:19:24,900 --> 00:19:27,100 # I'll run to you a little bit, little bit 364 00:19:27,100 --> 00:19:29,420 # A little bit, little bit 365 00:19:29,420 --> 00:19:31,020 # A little bit, little bit... # 366 00:19:32,500 --> 00:19:34,580 Wow! What about that? 367 00:19:34,580 --> 00:19:36,740 I mean, here we are, look, in this funny building, 368 00:19:36,740 --> 00:19:38,260 with its weird breeze block thing, 369 00:19:38,260 --> 00:19:40,580 in a very nondescript little back street, 370 00:19:40,580 --> 00:19:45,140 and yet, here, we might have just witnessed a new global phenomenon. 371 00:19:45,140 --> 00:19:46,700 We might just have done. 372 00:19:46,700 --> 00:19:49,500 I mean, maybe no-one will ever hear of STAYC again, I don't know, 373 00:19:49,500 --> 00:19:53,700 but my hunch is, I think the world will be reverberating 374 00:19:53,700 --> 00:19:55,500 to the sound of that song. 375 00:19:55,500 --> 00:19:58,260 I mean, I'm never going to get that out of my head. It's brilliant. 376 00:19:58,260 --> 00:20:00,060 STAYC. Hmm. 377 00:20:00,060 --> 00:20:03,660 Coming up - I embrace K-pop stardom... 378 00:20:03,660 --> 00:20:05,860 # Told you not to... # 379 00:20:05,860 --> 00:20:08,060 ..meet the man obsessed with British accents... 380 00:20:08,060 --> 00:20:10,620 All right, la'? Let's have some chicken, la'! 381 00:20:10,620 --> 00:20:13,020 ..and ponder matters of life and death. 382 00:20:23,860 --> 00:20:26,700 Looking good is so important to South Koreans. 383 00:20:26,700 --> 00:20:29,260 From K-pop stars to office workers, 384 00:20:29,260 --> 00:20:31,220 appearance seems to be everything. 385 00:20:34,260 --> 00:20:37,740 Korean men are some of the biggest users of beauty products globally... 386 00:20:39,780 --> 00:20:42,500 ..and Seoul is also one of the leading centres 387 00:20:42,500 --> 00:20:44,380 of plastic surgery in the world. 388 00:20:47,940 --> 00:20:50,700 Well, I mean, look at all that Korean signage there. 389 00:20:50,700 --> 00:20:53,740 Luckily, I've got a brilliant app on my phone that looks at it 390 00:20:53,740 --> 00:20:55,580 and translates it. 391 00:20:55,580 --> 00:20:58,300 Oh! And there we go! What are we looking at there? 392 00:20:58,300 --> 00:21:02,460 Every single one of them is a plastic surgery clinic. 393 00:21:04,780 --> 00:21:06,220 That's an extraordinary thing. 394 00:21:06,220 --> 00:21:08,100 I was hearing about how plastic surgery here 395 00:21:08,100 --> 00:21:11,140 has none of the hang-ups that people have at home with plastic surgery. 396 00:21:11,140 --> 00:21:13,860 Everybody's delighted to tell you what operations they've had, 397 00:21:13,860 --> 00:21:17,100 nips and tucks and little indentations put in, 398 00:21:17,100 --> 00:21:19,420 and anything that can make them look better. 399 00:21:19,420 --> 00:21:22,420 Talking of which, I am now going to go and have my own little plastic... 400 00:21:22,420 --> 00:21:25,260 Well, not plastic surgery. I'm going to have my own makeover, 401 00:21:25,260 --> 00:21:27,380 see if I can turn myself into a K-pop star. 402 00:21:32,180 --> 00:21:34,780 I'm interested to know what K-pop stars 403 00:21:34,780 --> 00:21:36,980 have to go through to make it big. 404 00:21:36,980 --> 00:21:38,380 It certainly works. 405 00:21:38,380 --> 00:21:41,900 Bands like BTS are the biggest sellers on the planet. 406 00:21:41,900 --> 00:21:44,460 Hair, clothes, make-up - 407 00:21:44,460 --> 00:21:45,900 what is the secret? 408 00:21:48,780 --> 00:21:51,060 I was told to come and look for the gauzy curtain. Ah! 409 00:21:51,060 --> 00:21:54,420 This beauty parlour in central Seoul 410 00:21:54,420 --> 00:21:56,340 is just the place to find out. 411 00:21:56,340 --> 00:21:57,980 Hello. Come on in. 412 00:22:00,220 --> 00:22:02,660 Hello. Hello. How do you do? 413 00:22:02,660 --> 00:22:04,420 Your name is...? Alexander. 414 00:22:04,420 --> 00:22:07,020 Alexander. 415 00:22:07,020 --> 00:22:09,180 OK. And date of birth? 416 00:22:09,180 --> 00:22:11,060 Um...1970. 417 00:22:11,060 --> 00:22:13,020 OK, here we go. 418 00:22:13,020 --> 00:22:15,020 Are you wearing make-up? 419 00:22:15,020 --> 00:22:17,180 Do I wear any...? No, I'm not wearing any make-up. 420 00:22:17,180 --> 00:22:18,900 And, please, chin here... 421 00:22:18,900 --> 00:22:21,260 Chin here. ..and your forehead here. 422 00:22:22,220 --> 00:22:23,820 OK, close your eyes, please. 423 00:22:24,940 --> 00:22:26,580 Close. Mm-hm. 424 00:22:28,060 --> 00:22:30,300 Thank you so much. 425 00:22:30,300 --> 00:22:32,780 I'm going to check your moisture. 426 00:22:32,780 --> 00:22:34,340 Now it's sensing. 427 00:22:35,580 --> 00:22:37,980 So it's not really working quite well. 428 00:22:37,980 --> 00:22:39,820 It's not reading anything at all. 429 00:22:39,820 --> 00:22:41,540 Yeah. How weird. 430 00:22:41,540 --> 00:22:43,860 What's it measuring - moisture? 431 00:22:43,860 --> 00:22:45,340 Moisture. 432 00:22:45,340 --> 00:22:47,820 I'm sorry. Don't worry. I'm sorry. 433 00:22:47,820 --> 00:22:50,580 Do you want to try it on that side? Try it there. OK. 434 00:22:50,580 --> 00:22:53,740 Trying again. Hmm! 435 00:22:53,740 --> 00:22:56,660 It's not getting a reading on my skin. 436 00:22:56,660 --> 00:22:58,180 Sometimes it takes time. 437 00:22:58,180 --> 00:22:59,860 My skin's wrong. 438 00:22:59,860 --> 00:23:02,020 Oh, there we go! Wahey! 439 00:23:02,020 --> 00:23:03,740 That's more like it. Look at that! 440 00:23:05,100 --> 00:23:08,220 And wrinkles. Wrinkles, forehead lines. 441 00:23:08,220 --> 00:23:11,820 I have more wrinkle lines than WH Auden. 442 00:23:12,860 --> 00:23:14,460 Let's see your pore. 443 00:23:14,460 --> 00:23:18,060 Size of pores on your face, a little, little, large, but it's OK. 444 00:23:18,060 --> 00:23:20,860 You think pore-care product is necessary? 445 00:23:20,860 --> 00:23:22,420 Yes. It's not that bad, 446 00:23:22,420 --> 00:23:25,100 but underneath your skin, we can see the... 447 00:23:25,100 --> 00:23:27,740 A bit of sun damage. Yes, kind of. 448 00:23:27,740 --> 00:23:29,580 Do you put some eye cream? 449 00:23:29,580 --> 00:23:30,940 No, I don't. 450 00:23:30,940 --> 00:23:32,740 Do you feel dry? 451 00:23:32,740 --> 00:23:34,220 Do I what? Feel the skin...? 452 00:23:34,220 --> 00:23:35,820 No, not remotely. Oh, really? 453 00:23:35,820 --> 00:23:38,140 Or oily sometimes? No. No? Not at all? 454 00:23:38,140 --> 00:23:39,660 It's generally normal. Oh! 455 00:23:39,660 --> 00:23:42,060 So, do you use moisturiser or some...? 456 00:23:42,060 --> 00:23:44,020 No. I should do, shouldn't I? I don't. 457 00:23:44,020 --> 00:23:46,460 So, when you wake up, what do you put on your skin? 458 00:23:46,460 --> 00:23:47,780 I don't put anything on. 459 00:23:47,780 --> 00:23:49,820 Really? Yeah. Really? Yeah. 460 00:23:49,820 --> 00:23:51,500 Really? Seriously. 461 00:23:51,500 --> 00:23:53,700 Put something, please. Really? 462 00:23:53,700 --> 00:23:57,340 Yes. Is that wrong? OK, I promise, I'll put on moisturiser. 463 00:24:01,100 --> 00:24:04,540 And next, it's my K-pop make-up session! 464 00:24:04,540 --> 00:24:07,740 I think Boemeh has got a bit of a job on her hands. 465 00:24:07,740 --> 00:24:11,620 Are we going to change you? Yes, you are. I'm in your hands. 466 00:24:11,620 --> 00:24:13,860 Is it OK that I change you into a K-pop star? 467 00:24:13,860 --> 00:24:16,220 Completely. Fill your boots. 468 00:24:17,540 --> 00:24:20,300 Ooh! That's an...interesting colour. 469 00:24:20,300 --> 00:24:21,940 Is that normal? 470 00:24:21,940 --> 00:24:25,100 I think this colour is a little bit bright for you. 471 00:24:25,100 --> 00:24:26,900 But you've gone with it, 472 00:24:26,900 --> 00:24:29,820 so...we'd better stick with it. 473 00:24:29,820 --> 00:24:31,900 Some green. Green make-up base. 474 00:24:31,900 --> 00:24:34,100 Is that a big colour in K-pop - green? 475 00:24:34,100 --> 00:24:38,540 If you have red skin, then we choose green base. Mm-hm. 476 00:24:41,140 --> 00:24:44,180 Is that enough of the gr...? I look a bit grey, don't I? 477 00:24:44,180 --> 00:24:46,380 Like I've just risen from the dead. 478 00:24:46,380 --> 00:24:48,620 SHE CHUCKLES 479 00:24:48,620 --> 00:24:51,420 These are great sort of candy colours here, aren't they? 480 00:24:51,420 --> 00:24:54,420 I think so. Very... Yeah. Are they big K-pop colours - 481 00:24:54,420 --> 00:24:55,780 bright pinks and...? 482 00:24:55,780 --> 00:24:58,700 Bright pink and colour. Good. 483 00:25:00,780 --> 00:25:04,340 It's looking quite zombie, isn't it, at the moment? 484 00:25:04,340 --> 00:25:09,540 I noticed a lot of Korean men take their beauty regime very seriously, 485 00:25:09,540 --> 00:25:11,620 they make themselves very beautiful. 486 00:25:11,620 --> 00:25:14,580 Yes. Do you get a lot of men in here, as well? 487 00:25:14,580 --> 00:25:18,300 Yes. Males come here to fix their brow... 488 00:25:18,300 --> 00:25:21,900 Right. ..or wanting to have, like, a skin colour. 489 00:25:21,900 --> 00:25:24,060 You know, wearing contact lens, as well, 490 00:25:24,060 --> 00:25:25,620 we're changing their colour. 491 00:25:25,620 --> 00:25:30,140 There's a big sort of line now in male make-up in Korea - 492 00:25:30,140 --> 00:25:31,420 it's interesting. 493 00:25:31,420 --> 00:25:36,420 So I'm going to just change your eyes. 494 00:25:36,420 --> 00:25:39,180 I'm going to use the brown colour... OK. 495 00:25:39,180 --> 00:25:42,980 ..so make your eyes have, like, impact. 496 00:25:42,980 --> 00:25:46,660 What's the key look for K-pop stars? 497 00:25:46,660 --> 00:25:49,180 Is it based on a sort of cartoon thing? 498 00:25:49,180 --> 00:25:51,380 Is it based on...? I don't know, what is it? 499 00:25:51,380 --> 00:25:54,180 They have, like, their own, like, character. Right. 500 00:25:54,180 --> 00:25:57,180 So you're kind of creating a character for them. 501 00:25:57,180 --> 00:25:59,580 A little bit like a caricature? I think so. 502 00:26:00,860 --> 00:26:03,500 I wonder what kind of character you're making me. 503 00:26:03,500 --> 00:26:05,020 SHE LAUGHS 504 00:26:05,020 --> 00:26:06,260 The old one. 505 00:26:06,260 --> 00:26:08,380 Old one! Eyes up, up! 506 00:26:10,620 --> 00:26:12,380 That's it. Wow! 507 00:26:17,020 --> 00:26:19,540 So it really does matter to look good here. 508 00:26:20,540 --> 00:26:23,020 To be honest, everything looks good. 509 00:26:23,020 --> 00:26:24,580 It's so clean, 510 00:26:24,580 --> 00:26:27,860 certainly cleaner than many a grimy European capital. 511 00:26:27,860 --> 00:26:30,740 And fun! It's...it's playful. 512 00:26:32,060 --> 00:26:34,260 But this is very on Seoul. 513 00:26:34,260 --> 00:26:37,420 There's a person dressed as a tree handing out leaflets. 514 00:26:37,420 --> 00:26:40,140 This beautiful avenue behind 515 00:26:40,140 --> 00:26:42,420 and fascinating buildings. 516 00:26:42,420 --> 00:26:46,460 Ah! I can smell cinnamon and raisins. 517 00:26:46,460 --> 00:26:48,660 Mm! Very nice! 518 00:26:48,660 --> 00:26:51,180 It's not what I was expecting to find in Seoul. 519 00:26:51,180 --> 00:26:54,020 That's more the kind of thing I was expecting, sort of kitsch rabbit. 520 00:26:56,340 --> 00:27:00,340 I've come here to meet another of Korea's beloved YouTube stars. 521 00:27:00,340 --> 00:27:02,340 Hello, everyone, this is Billy. 522 00:27:02,340 --> 00:27:05,660 Today, I'm going to talk about British dialects. 523 00:27:05,660 --> 00:27:07,020 This is Korean Billy, 524 00:27:07,020 --> 00:27:10,300 who has something of a knack for English accents. 525 00:27:10,300 --> 00:27:12,020 This sound is produced by 526 00:27:12,020 --> 00:27:14,700 obstructing airflow in the vocal tract. 527 00:27:14,700 --> 00:27:16,220 Water. 528 00:27:16,220 --> 00:27:17,580 Wa'er. 529 00:27:17,580 --> 00:27:19,820 I haven't heard of that story. 530 00:27:19,820 --> 00:27:21,780 I haven't heard of that sto-rey. 531 00:27:21,780 --> 00:27:25,980 I'm meeting Billy to discuss the curious celebration of cuteness 532 00:27:25,980 --> 00:27:28,420 in Korean culture over a coffee. 533 00:27:28,420 --> 00:27:31,980 I have to say, the cafe's central concept is a bit of a surprise, 534 00:27:31,980 --> 00:27:35,660 as it's dedicated, bafflingly, to poo. 535 00:27:35,660 --> 00:27:39,020 What is it about the online thing? 536 00:27:39,020 --> 00:27:44,100 Cos Korea has kind of made the world of online its own. 537 00:27:44,100 --> 00:27:47,220 It leads the world. K-culture, generally, 538 00:27:47,220 --> 00:27:51,140 it lives in this sort of weird metaverse, doesn't it? Yeah. 539 00:27:51,140 --> 00:27:54,660 We've been just always making our own unique 540 00:27:54,660 --> 00:27:59,020 and enjoyable cultural stuff from a long time ago, 541 00:27:59,020 --> 00:28:01,420 and we just kept doing it. 542 00:28:01,420 --> 00:28:05,620 But, thanks to the Internet, people have discovered Korean culture. 543 00:28:05,620 --> 00:28:07,420 The world found it. Yeah. 544 00:28:07,420 --> 00:28:11,220 On the subject of the online export, 545 00:28:11,220 --> 00:28:14,180 you are a YouTube star, as well, aren't you? 546 00:28:14,180 --> 00:28:15,660 Yes. 547 00:28:15,660 --> 00:28:18,100 "Ozzy" means hospital. For example... 548 00:28:20,700 --> 00:28:23,860 I really love British TV shows... Yeah. 549 00:28:23,860 --> 00:28:28,500 ..but I was interested in British language, as well, British English. 550 00:28:28,500 --> 00:28:30,780 Do a bit of Scouse for me. Sorry to make you... 551 00:28:30,780 --> 00:28:33,380 All right, la', let's have some chicken, la'. 552 00:28:33,380 --> 00:28:35,020 That brekkie was boss! 553 00:28:35,020 --> 00:28:37,620 Let's have some boss scran at the Asda. 554 00:28:37,620 --> 00:28:39,940 Billy developed his English accent skills 555 00:28:39,940 --> 00:28:42,340 while studying at Preston University. 556 00:28:43,380 --> 00:28:47,300 I always wanted to, like, say that British people should learn 557 00:28:47,300 --> 00:28:49,500 some cuteness from Korea 558 00:28:49,500 --> 00:28:51,700 and bring some cuteness back to the... 559 00:28:51,700 --> 00:28:54,580 A bit of cuteness. We don't do cute, do we, really? Yeah. 560 00:28:54,580 --> 00:28:57,900 I want to ask you about that because the K-culture 561 00:28:57,900 --> 00:28:59,740 takes huge pleasure in... 562 00:28:59,740 --> 00:29:02,700 For example, we're sitting in a cafe at the moment called the Poo Cafe. 563 00:29:02,700 --> 00:29:06,380 Yeah. It's unashamedly childlike. 564 00:29:06,380 --> 00:29:08,540 You know, there's something kitsch about this. 565 00:29:08,540 --> 00:29:10,740 It's bright and accessible. 566 00:29:10,740 --> 00:29:15,340 The appetite people have for creativity is extraordinary. 567 00:29:15,340 --> 00:29:19,660 The Koreans are so busy, they can't stand slow things. 568 00:29:19,660 --> 00:29:24,140 But I think that's why Korean people manage to develop things 569 00:29:24,140 --> 00:29:26,940 overall very, very quickly. Incredibly quickly! 570 00:29:26,940 --> 00:29:30,220 Like, suppose you just go to a place in London, 571 00:29:30,220 --> 00:29:33,420 after ten years, they are still there. Yeah. 572 00:29:33,420 --> 00:29:37,940 But in Seoul, you can't really find the places which used to be there. 573 00:29:37,940 --> 00:29:40,980 What a great pleasure to meet you. I could talk for hours! 574 00:29:40,980 --> 00:29:43,500 I say, drinking from a toilet bowl. 575 00:29:47,580 --> 00:29:50,540 Hmm. There's a strange paradox at work here. 576 00:29:50,540 --> 00:29:55,620 On one hand, Korea is celebrated for its bright, poppy side. 577 00:29:55,620 --> 00:29:59,540 But on the other, the pressures of life can have serious consequences. 578 00:30:01,940 --> 00:30:05,500 South Korea has one of the highest suicide rates in the world. 579 00:30:09,820 --> 00:30:13,420 But a radical step has been taken to try and remedy it. 580 00:30:33,300 --> 00:30:36,220 This is the death experience school. 581 00:30:36,220 --> 00:30:39,300 Run by Ne-yo, a social worker, 582 00:30:39,300 --> 00:30:41,980 at this Buddhist monastery near Seoul. 583 00:30:56,220 --> 00:30:59,140 It's a very, very peaceful spot. Mm-hm. 584 00:30:59,140 --> 00:31:03,380 The obliging cockerel over there. Mm-hm. 585 00:31:03,380 --> 00:31:06,940 It's beautiful and so near to Seoul. Yes. 586 00:31:06,940 --> 00:31:12,180 And what particularly is the meditation here? 587 00:31:12,180 --> 00:31:16,540 At this place, we meditate about death and dying. 588 00:31:16,540 --> 00:31:20,740 Right. And how does that work, essentially? 589 00:31:20,740 --> 00:31:24,340 They think about their past life. 590 00:31:24,340 --> 00:31:27,460 So, if they are dying, what is regret? 591 00:31:29,660 --> 00:31:32,740 The programme has been running for 23 years. 592 00:31:32,740 --> 00:31:35,660 Over 60,000 people have taken part. 593 00:31:38,540 --> 00:31:43,620 I suppose thinking about your life in the context of death 594 00:31:43,620 --> 00:31:46,220 throws up everything into... 595 00:31:46,220 --> 00:31:49,540 Yes. ..a rather deeper perspective. Hmm. 596 00:31:52,340 --> 00:31:54,900 This is the mirror of our life. 597 00:31:57,380 --> 00:31:59,860 So, Neyo, what is this, here? 598 00:31:59,860 --> 00:32:04,540 This place is for your death experience. You are dying today. 599 00:32:04,540 --> 00:32:06,820 Right. I see. 600 00:32:06,820 --> 00:32:10,300 So you stand as if at the point of death 601 00:32:10,300 --> 00:32:12,820 and look over the whole of your life? 602 00:32:12,820 --> 00:32:14,660 Yes, exactly. Yeah. 603 00:32:16,260 --> 00:32:18,900 You happy? Well, I think so. 604 00:32:18,900 --> 00:32:20,900 Over there. Thank you. 605 00:32:20,900 --> 00:32:23,860 The coffin is... Your coffin is this one. 606 00:32:23,860 --> 00:32:25,900 Is this one here? Big coffin. 607 00:32:25,900 --> 00:32:27,660 This is, er... Oh, Lord! 608 00:32:27,660 --> 00:32:29,100 Oh, my God. 609 00:32:29,100 --> 00:32:30,900 Your face. 610 00:32:30,900 --> 00:32:33,220 That's something quite scary. Mm. 611 00:32:34,740 --> 00:32:37,180 It's suddenly got very real. Mm. 612 00:32:37,180 --> 00:32:39,580 Um... 613 00:32:39,580 --> 00:32:43,260 Who is crying...for your death? 614 00:32:45,060 --> 00:32:48,100 I think, er...my wife, my children. 615 00:32:50,260 --> 00:32:51,780 Um... 616 00:32:51,780 --> 00:32:56,020 It's very... Suddenly, very... Got a bit of a lump in my throat. 617 00:32:56,020 --> 00:32:58,820 Everyone does the same. 618 00:32:58,820 --> 00:33:03,580 You know, has one wasted too much life of one's own life? 619 00:33:03,580 --> 00:33:05,980 Did I get too cross about things? 620 00:33:05,980 --> 00:33:08,140 Did I get impatient about things? 621 00:33:08,140 --> 00:33:10,380 Was I a useful person? 622 00:33:11,820 --> 00:33:13,380 What can I do better? 623 00:33:14,700 --> 00:33:18,900 And then, if you are reborn again, what would you do, 624 00:33:18,900 --> 00:33:20,820 if God gave you one more chance? 625 00:33:20,820 --> 00:33:22,700 So think about your life. 626 00:33:22,700 --> 00:33:24,620 Hmm. 627 00:33:24,620 --> 00:33:26,180 HE CHUCKLES 628 00:33:26,180 --> 00:33:28,380 I hadn't, until I arrived here... 629 00:33:29,700 --> 00:33:34,060 ..imagined how powerful this perspective was going to be. 630 00:33:35,700 --> 00:33:40,460 And this is Korean clothes for dead people. 631 00:33:40,460 --> 00:33:43,660 Right. Yeah. So...you want to try? 632 00:33:43,660 --> 00:33:45,180 Well, I guess. 633 00:33:47,500 --> 00:33:49,380 That's, um... 634 00:33:49,380 --> 00:33:53,060 These clothes is only people who is dying, with death. 635 00:33:54,540 --> 00:33:56,580 So you're dead. Right, I see. 636 00:33:56,580 --> 00:33:59,260 No. You're dead, you can't do anything. 637 00:33:59,260 --> 00:34:02,140 I see. You're dead. OK. I will do it for you. 638 00:34:04,780 --> 00:34:06,940 In here, pocket? Mm-hm. 639 00:34:06,940 --> 00:34:09,420 No pocket. Why? 640 00:34:09,420 --> 00:34:11,580 Cos you can't take anything with you. 641 00:34:11,580 --> 00:34:13,460 Yeah, you cannot carry anything. 642 00:34:13,460 --> 00:34:15,660 So I'm going to get in, am I? Yeah, get in. 643 00:34:15,660 --> 00:34:17,500 Take off my shoes? Take off your shoes. 644 00:34:19,460 --> 00:34:21,140 When you're ready, go on the inside. 645 00:34:22,620 --> 00:34:24,180 ALEXANDER SIGHS 646 00:34:26,380 --> 00:34:29,980 This is a profoundly weird experience. Lay down, please. 647 00:34:29,980 --> 00:34:31,340 Um...OK. 648 00:34:33,740 --> 00:34:36,220 OK, just one minute. 649 00:34:36,220 --> 00:34:38,900 One minute. This is your last moment, 650 00:34:38,900 --> 00:34:42,500 so say goodbye to your family and your friends. 651 00:34:45,060 --> 00:34:46,780 Hmm. OK? 652 00:34:46,780 --> 00:34:51,340 So, right now, your body will be the food of the insect. 653 00:34:51,340 --> 00:34:54,780 Insects will eat your body and your body will be disappear. 654 00:34:55,940 --> 00:34:57,500 Just disappear. 655 00:35:03,380 --> 00:35:05,300 In the end, you're all alone. 656 00:35:08,180 --> 00:35:12,100 So, what did you achieve from your life? 657 00:35:16,180 --> 00:35:18,020 I think my children are... 658 00:35:23,020 --> 00:35:24,540 ..are my best achievement. 659 00:35:28,780 --> 00:35:30,260 HE SNIFFLES 660 00:35:32,180 --> 00:35:34,860 You ready? Mm. Yeah. 661 00:35:34,860 --> 00:35:37,580 OK. Just lie down, OK? Yeah. 662 00:36:09,460 --> 00:36:14,220 We never know. It could be one month or one year. We never know. 663 00:36:15,260 --> 00:36:19,460 The universe and God 664 00:36:19,460 --> 00:36:22,700 don't want you die right now, 665 00:36:22,700 --> 00:36:25,260 so they are going to give you more, 666 00:36:25,260 --> 00:36:26,900 a really small time. 667 00:36:26,900 --> 00:36:29,780 So, what would you do? 668 00:36:29,780 --> 00:36:33,300 I will keep going back to this point 669 00:36:33,300 --> 00:36:38,340 and I will remember exactly what this weird process felt like. 670 00:36:38,340 --> 00:36:40,060 And thinking... 671 00:36:43,500 --> 00:36:45,020 ..what will make me proud... 672 00:36:47,460 --> 00:36:49,340 ..when this moment actually comes? 673 00:36:52,900 --> 00:36:54,420 The thing I think of... 674 00:36:56,180 --> 00:36:57,620 ..is love. 675 00:36:59,020 --> 00:37:00,540 That's the... 676 00:37:02,460 --> 00:37:04,180 ..most meaningful thing. 677 00:37:08,340 --> 00:37:11,660 Now, I was determined to take all of this with a pinch of salt, 678 00:37:11,660 --> 00:37:14,620 you know, all the sort of Halloweenery of the... 679 00:37:14,620 --> 00:37:18,020 ..coffins and the graveyard and all of that. 680 00:37:18,020 --> 00:37:20,260 And I thought, "Well, this is sort of set dressing!" 681 00:37:20,260 --> 00:37:22,220 And then, when I got there, and suddenly... 682 00:37:23,580 --> 00:37:25,460 ..it really got me. 683 00:37:26,780 --> 00:37:30,660 But then, inevitably, you know, these are...these are... 684 00:37:30,660 --> 00:37:34,900 ..these are very profound points that Neyo is bringing up, and... 685 00:37:36,140 --> 00:37:39,700 Yeah, there's a reason why you don't really muck about with all that kind of stuff. 686 00:37:42,020 --> 00:37:44,540 ..because it is... It's to be respected. 687 00:37:50,180 --> 00:37:53,380 Coming up - I head to Gangnam, 688 00:37:53,380 --> 00:37:56,180 where K-pop stardom surely awaits! 689 00:37:56,180 --> 00:37:58,340 THEY WHOOP 690 00:38:07,940 --> 00:38:09,980 Korea has not let me down. 691 00:38:09,980 --> 00:38:13,620 It's everything I imagined and far more besides. 692 00:38:13,620 --> 00:38:16,300 And now I'm heading back to the K-pop factory 693 00:38:16,300 --> 00:38:21,940 for the next step in unlocking the secrets of K-pop's success. 694 00:38:21,940 --> 00:38:26,140 I'm going to be making my very own K-pop record, complete with artwork. 695 00:38:27,260 --> 00:38:28,860 I'm going to need to look sharp, 696 00:38:28,860 --> 00:38:33,060 so I've enlisted the help of stylist to the stars... 697 00:38:33,060 --> 00:38:35,340 How do you do? 698 00:38:35,340 --> 00:38:36,660 Oh, this is very exciting. 699 00:38:36,660 --> 00:38:38,620 You're going to make me a K-pop star. Yeah. 700 00:38:38,620 --> 00:38:40,220 K-pop style. 701 00:38:41,580 --> 00:38:44,380 Oh, look at that! There's this. 702 00:38:44,380 --> 00:38:46,260 This is very K-pop. 703 00:38:46,260 --> 00:38:48,740 I love the embroidery on this. 704 00:38:48,740 --> 00:38:52,220 I mean, that's... 705 00:38:53,740 --> 00:38:55,180 Does this keep the mozzies out? 706 00:38:55,180 --> 00:38:56,580 Great. 707 00:38:56,580 --> 00:38:58,340 Like a bandanna. Yeah. 708 00:38:58,340 --> 00:38:59,860 I like the way these hang down. 709 00:39:07,940 --> 00:39:10,260 I'll be doing a lot of that, I think, on stage. 710 00:39:10,260 --> 00:39:12,940 And these are going to then whoosh. 711 00:39:12,940 --> 00:39:16,900 Whoosh! As I swirl around, and do some of my moves. 712 00:39:19,220 --> 00:39:22,340 The military style. Yeah, let's try that on. 713 00:39:22,340 --> 00:39:25,420 It's a piece of work, this. 714 00:39:25,420 --> 00:39:27,620 I mean, it's just... 715 00:39:32,900 --> 00:39:34,860 I feel like a traffic warden. 716 00:39:37,860 --> 00:39:39,340 Like that? 717 00:39:40,820 --> 00:39:42,340 I come on stage. 718 00:39:42,340 --> 00:39:44,940 Whoa! 719 00:39:44,940 --> 00:39:48,100 Well, thank you. I think we've got lots to think about there. 720 00:39:50,540 --> 00:39:54,060 Now I'm heading for the epicentre of the whole K-pop industry, 721 00:39:54,060 --> 00:39:55,860 as immortalised by PSY. 722 00:39:55,860 --> 00:39:59,420 It's Gangnam. 723 00:39:59,420 --> 00:40:01,300 Well, these are the hands of PSI. 724 00:40:01,300 --> 00:40:04,140 Just in case you're in any doubt, it even says, look, "Gangnam Style." 725 00:40:04,140 --> 00:40:07,660 Here we are. There's the watch of PSI, the forefinger of PSI. 726 00:40:07,660 --> 00:40:09,260 You get the idea. 727 00:40:09,260 --> 00:40:12,180 It's a whole monument to Gangnam Style, the song that burst 728 00:40:12,180 --> 00:40:15,260 onto the cultural scene. Then the explosion happened. 729 00:40:15,260 --> 00:40:19,180 Suddenly, the world had heard of Gangnam, this region of Seoul, 730 00:40:19,180 --> 00:40:22,100 where all the record labels, the production companies, 731 00:40:22,100 --> 00:40:24,740 the film companies are based. 732 00:40:25,820 --> 00:40:27,220 And this is it. 733 00:40:27,220 --> 00:40:31,140 This is where I throw myself on to the altar of K-pop. 734 00:40:31,140 --> 00:40:34,860 I'm even getting the opportunity to record a song, which I'm hoping 735 00:40:34,860 --> 00:40:38,540 will give me an insight into just what it takes to make it big. 736 00:40:40,980 --> 00:40:43,900 I've spent the last day or so learning the words-ish 737 00:40:43,900 --> 00:40:47,500 to one of girl band STAYC's smash hits. 738 00:40:47,500 --> 00:40:50,860 You can do it in bits. Yeah. Lovely. 739 00:40:50,860 --> 00:40:54,340 One of the hottest producers in town is this man, 740 00:40:54,340 --> 00:40:56,940 whose speciality is working with K-pop bands 741 00:40:56,940 --> 00:40:58,820 to give them that super fresh sound. 742 00:41:07,740 --> 00:41:10,700 HE SINGS IN KOREAN 743 00:41:24,860 --> 00:41:26,300 I mean, making it cute. 744 00:41:26,300 --> 00:41:30,460 I'm thinking of little sort of chipmunky cartoon characters. 745 00:41:34,540 --> 00:41:37,660 HE SINGS IN KOREAN 746 00:41:59,420 --> 00:42:02,060 I don't know what language it is! 747 00:42:02,060 --> 00:42:04,500 I just wrote down what it sounded like. 748 00:42:07,340 --> 00:42:10,220 Salaijo... Is that right? 749 00:42:10,220 --> 00:42:12,100 Salajado. 750 00:42:12,100 --> 00:42:14,100 Sarajayo. Salajado. 751 00:42:14,100 --> 00:42:15,820 Sarajayo - he just said! 752 00:42:15,820 --> 00:42:17,260 # Salajado 753 00:42:17,260 --> 00:42:18,900 # Salajado. # 754 00:42:22,500 --> 00:42:25,100 So that was good for cuteness, was it? 755 00:42:28,420 --> 00:42:32,020 OK. I'm channelling my inner polar bear. 756 00:42:35,180 --> 00:42:36,340 Now for the easy bit. 757 00:42:36,340 --> 00:42:38,380 The chorus is in English. 758 00:42:38,380 --> 00:42:45,980 # So I'll run to you 759 00:42:47,340 --> 00:42:50,140 # So I'll run to you a little bit 760 00:42:50,140 --> 00:42:53,180 # Little bit A little bit, little bit 761 00:42:53,180 --> 00:42:55,900 # A little bit, little bit. # 762 00:43:02,900 --> 00:43:05,020 JJ! 763 00:43:09,020 --> 00:43:12,180 Then, a quick photoshoot for the cover artwork. 764 00:43:12,180 --> 00:43:14,860 But I don't know if the world's ready 765 00:43:14,860 --> 00:43:18,460 for my sourdough in mourning look. 766 00:43:18,460 --> 00:43:22,260 And my K-pop career comes to a juddering halt, 767 00:43:22,260 --> 00:43:26,660 as so many do in the karaoke bar, or nouraebang in Korean. 768 00:43:28,220 --> 00:43:30,020 Oh! 769 00:43:30,020 --> 00:43:32,020 How are you? 770 00:43:32,020 --> 00:43:33,940 Terrific. 771 00:43:33,940 --> 00:43:38,340 Luckily, what I lack in star quality I make up for in friends. 772 00:43:38,340 --> 00:43:40,500 Have I done enough? That's the question. 773 00:43:40,500 --> 00:43:41,860 I feel a little bit underdressed 774 00:43:41,860 --> 00:43:43,220 when I see the rest of you. 775 00:43:43,220 --> 00:43:45,420 Let's go in. Yeah, OK. 776 00:43:45,420 --> 00:43:49,220 # So I'll run to you A little bit, little bit... # 777 00:43:49,220 --> 00:43:53,460 And that's exactly what I've made here in Seoul - friends! 778 00:43:53,460 --> 00:43:58,340 The people of this beautiful, chaotic, fascinating city 779 00:43:58,340 --> 00:44:00,500 have made me so welcome. 780 00:44:00,500 --> 00:44:03,020 Whey! 781 00:44:09,340 --> 00:44:11,540 Next time... Hi! 782 00:44:11,540 --> 00:44:13,500 ..I'll be hitting the dance studio... 783 00:44:13,500 --> 00:44:14,780 Whoa! 784 00:44:14,780 --> 00:44:16,860 ..searching for a herbal cure... 785 00:44:16,860 --> 00:44:19,620 It is dried frog. Oh! 786 00:44:19,620 --> 00:44:21,940 ..and I get stuck in to my backbeats. 787 00:44:21,940 --> 00:44:24,380 That's more fun than I've had for years. 788 00:44:57,300 --> 00:44:58,900 South Korea. 789 00:45:00,380 --> 00:45:02,700 Global powerhouse. 790 00:45:02,700 --> 00:45:05,060 Economic miracle. 791 00:45:05,060 --> 00:45:06,660 Yet it's smaller than England. 792 00:45:07,700 --> 00:45:09,340 And it's only 70 years old. 793 00:45:09,340 --> 00:45:11,780 Younger than David Hasselhoff. 794 00:45:11,780 --> 00:45:14,540 Right now, it seems the world can't get enough 795 00:45:14,540 --> 00:45:16,700 of all things South Korea. 796 00:45:16,700 --> 00:45:17,740 K-Pop. 797 00:45:17,740 --> 00:45:18,980 Gangnam Style. 798 00:45:18,980 --> 00:45:20,820 K-Drama. Hai! 799 00:45:20,820 --> 00:45:21,980 LOUD THUD 800 00:45:21,980 --> 00:45:23,900 K everything. 801 00:45:23,900 --> 00:45:25,700 There are options at every turn. 802 00:45:26,740 --> 00:45:28,220 But I want to go deeper 803 00:45:28,220 --> 00:45:32,100 and find out more about its incredible history and culture. 804 00:45:34,180 --> 00:45:38,380 I discover the origins of Squid Game, 805 00:45:38,380 --> 00:45:41,340 feed myself into the K-Pop machine 806 00:45:41,340 --> 00:45:43,860 and meet Korea's YouTube sensations. 807 00:45:43,860 --> 00:45:45,140 SLURPING 808 00:45:45,140 --> 00:45:49,340 This is a country with its own unique way of doing things. 809 00:45:49,340 --> 00:45:51,060 In life... 810 00:45:51,060 --> 00:45:52,740 You are dying today. 811 00:45:52,740 --> 00:45:54,260 ..and the afterlife. 812 00:45:55,380 --> 00:45:56,900 It's just staggering. 813 00:45:56,900 --> 00:45:59,620 Welcome to my ultimate K adventure. 814 00:45:59,620 --> 00:46:01,980 THEY BOTH YELL 815 00:46:02,940 --> 00:46:05,220 DRUM CLANGING 816 00:46:16,700 --> 00:46:20,220 I'm on the second phase of my discovery of South Korea, 817 00:46:20,220 --> 00:46:21,700 a country that remarkably 818 00:46:21,700 --> 00:46:23,300 in just two generations 819 00:46:23,300 --> 00:46:25,660 has gone from the least developed in the world 820 00:46:25,660 --> 00:46:27,380 to a global sensation. 821 00:46:28,740 --> 00:46:29,900 Even in the knowledge 822 00:46:29,900 --> 00:46:32,980 that around 70% of North Korea's military power 823 00:46:32,980 --> 00:46:35,700 is aimed in its very direction, 824 00:46:35,700 --> 00:46:39,380 South Korea simply gets on with life at full throttle. 825 00:46:39,380 --> 00:46:41,700 Yeah! 826 00:46:41,700 --> 00:46:43,340 I'm going to dig deeper under the surface 827 00:46:43,340 --> 00:46:45,540 of this economic powerhouse... 828 00:46:45,540 --> 00:46:48,220 It's where the world's biggest car assembly plant is. 829 00:46:48,220 --> 00:46:49,980 Also the world's biggest shipyard. 830 00:46:49,980 --> 00:46:52,300 ..to find out how a culture 831 00:46:52,300 --> 00:46:53,900 dripping with modern sophistication... 832 00:46:53,900 --> 00:46:55,060 Hi! 833 00:46:55,060 --> 00:46:59,100 ..manages to stay in touch with its history and traditions. 834 00:46:59,100 --> 00:47:01,260 It's dried frog. Oh! 835 00:47:03,260 --> 00:47:06,420 Situated in the northwest of the South Korean peninsula, 836 00:47:06,420 --> 00:47:09,060 Seoul lies near the Yellow Sea. 837 00:47:16,620 --> 00:47:21,060 This is the Han, the mighty river of Seoul. I mean, look at it. 838 00:47:23,180 --> 00:47:25,940 If you think of our capital rivers back in Europe, 839 00:47:25,940 --> 00:47:28,900 the Seine or the Tiber or the Thames, 840 00:47:28,900 --> 00:47:32,820 I mean, this is just so vast, it makes them look like a mill race. 841 00:47:34,180 --> 00:47:36,660 This was once the great trading river 842 00:47:36,660 --> 00:47:38,540 going out to the Yellow Sea. 843 00:47:38,540 --> 00:47:41,300 But now, the estuary of this river is right at the point 844 00:47:41,300 --> 00:47:43,580 between the borders of North and South Korea, 845 00:47:43,580 --> 00:47:46,780 so there's no navigation at all, which means this is basically 846 00:47:46,780 --> 00:47:49,220 one great big ornamental river. 847 00:47:49,220 --> 00:47:50,940 It's the world's biggest boating lake. 848 00:48:00,020 --> 00:48:02,620 Where better to find the essence of a culture 849 00:48:02,620 --> 00:48:04,580 than in how they eat lunch? 850 00:48:07,180 --> 00:48:09,180 See? Look what's going on here. This is amazing. 851 00:48:09,180 --> 00:48:12,860 You buy some noodles over there, and you get these little tubs. 852 00:48:12,860 --> 00:48:15,340 They get them scanned by the machine up there, 853 00:48:15,340 --> 00:48:17,940 and it goes, "beep" and it reads the code on the thing. 854 00:48:17,940 --> 00:48:21,020 And out of those little spouts comes hot water, 855 00:48:21,020 --> 00:48:22,180 the perfect volume. 856 00:48:22,180 --> 00:48:24,220 There they are. They're just here for anyone to use. 857 00:48:24,220 --> 00:48:26,260 There's a nice little table there for anyone to use, 858 00:48:26,260 --> 00:48:27,500 and everyone puts their rubbish there 859 00:48:27,500 --> 00:48:28,580 when they're done with it. 860 00:48:28,580 --> 00:48:30,780 Can you imagine something like this at home? 861 00:48:30,780 --> 00:48:33,260 How many days before someone did a poo in one of those? 862 00:48:35,140 --> 00:48:36,340 Two. 863 00:48:42,220 --> 00:48:45,220 South Korea has a great sense of national identity. 864 00:48:46,260 --> 00:48:49,700 And I want to understand more about its ancient past, 865 00:48:49,700 --> 00:48:53,220 so I'm visiting one of Seoul's most treasured landmarks, 866 00:48:53,220 --> 00:48:55,140 Gyeongbokgung Palace. 867 00:48:57,460 --> 00:48:59,900 The only ancient part of Seoul, in fact. 868 00:48:59,900 --> 00:49:03,020 Everywhere else around here is huge and shiny and modern. 869 00:49:03,020 --> 00:49:05,820 Most buildings have got massive screens all over them. 870 00:49:07,860 --> 00:49:10,780 But now, look at these well-dressed young people. 871 00:49:12,100 --> 00:49:15,540 You may think they're excitedly rushing off to their school prom. 872 00:49:15,540 --> 00:49:17,020 Hi! 873 00:49:17,020 --> 00:49:19,900 But no, they're here for a morning's light sightseeing. 874 00:49:21,940 --> 00:49:23,820 You'll see a lot of that here. 875 00:49:23,820 --> 00:49:27,820 This fashion for wearing ancient Korean costume 876 00:49:27,820 --> 00:49:28,980 is known as New Tra. 877 00:49:28,980 --> 00:49:30,420 It's very popular amongst the young now. 878 00:49:30,420 --> 00:49:32,980 I guess it's a kind of backlash against the ultramodern 879 00:49:32,980 --> 00:49:36,820 and just to wallow in the ancientness of Korea. 880 00:49:36,820 --> 00:49:39,060 ANNOUNCEMENT IN KOREAN 881 00:49:40,180 --> 00:49:42,180 SLOW, LOW-PITCHED DRUMMING 882 00:49:42,180 --> 00:49:45,580 The truth is, you get in to see the changing of the guard free 883 00:49:45,580 --> 00:49:47,740 if you're kitted out in national dress. 884 00:49:47,740 --> 00:49:49,500 Great news for local hire shops. 885 00:49:49,500 --> 00:49:52,580 SOLEMN BRASS MUSIC PLAYING 886 00:49:53,700 --> 00:49:55,900 MUSIC CONTINUES 887 00:49:55,900 --> 00:49:59,820 They sound like...a bit like sort of bagpipe chanters. 888 00:49:59,820 --> 00:50:02,820 It's actually a similar sort of function to the bagpipe. 889 00:50:02,820 --> 00:50:07,780 It has a kind of warlike skirling sound. Very stirring. 890 00:50:11,060 --> 00:50:13,260 They've got these pheasant tail feathers in their hats. 891 00:50:13,260 --> 00:50:17,460 There's just something a little bit jaunty about that. 892 00:50:17,460 --> 00:50:19,140 A little bit morris men. 893 00:50:24,180 --> 00:50:28,060 I mean, what a piece of theatre that was. Wasn't it beautiful? 894 00:50:28,060 --> 00:50:29,340 I suppose our pageantry 895 00:50:29,340 --> 00:50:31,820 is a lot of very hard boots on the ground 896 00:50:31,820 --> 00:50:32,940 and a lot of shouting. 897 00:50:32,940 --> 00:50:34,260 HE GROWLS 898 00:50:34,260 --> 00:50:37,420 That, by contrast, was soft power. 899 00:50:37,420 --> 00:50:38,540 I'm slightly wondering 900 00:50:38,540 --> 00:50:41,260 whether or not they're actual soldiers 901 00:50:41,260 --> 00:50:44,100 or actors who were enacting it. 902 00:50:44,100 --> 00:50:46,500 Have they gone back to barracks now, 903 00:50:46,500 --> 00:50:48,700 or have they just gone to finish the Guardian crossword? 904 00:50:51,620 --> 00:50:52,740 With the show over, 905 00:50:52,740 --> 00:50:55,860 I have got history student Ho Young waiting in the wings 906 00:50:55,860 --> 00:50:58,940 to tell me all about the splendid Gyeongbokgung Palace. 907 00:51:01,020 --> 00:51:03,900 What is the significance, then, of this palace? 908 00:51:03,900 --> 00:51:07,900 So, the last dynasty that existed before Republic of Korea 909 00:51:07,900 --> 00:51:09,620 was called Joseon dynasty. 910 00:51:09,620 --> 00:51:12,220 It was established in 1392, 911 00:51:12,220 --> 00:51:15,780 and this was the first palace of that dynasty. 912 00:51:15,780 --> 00:51:18,580 And it stood here for over 600 years, 913 00:51:18,580 --> 00:51:21,340 and it was burnt down several times. 914 00:51:21,340 --> 00:51:23,340 Every time Korea was conquered, 915 00:51:23,340 --> 00:51:25,740 the palace was burned down, was sort of razed to the ground. 916 00:51:25,740 --> 00:51:27,660 So that is symbolically important. 917 00:51:27,660 --> 00:51:29,860 Yes. You remove the palace, you remove the power. 918 00:51:32,820 --> 00:51:35,340 To add insult to injury, the Japanese built 919 00:51:35,340 --> 00:51:38,380 their imposing government HQ here 920 00:51:38,380 --> 00:51:40,580 after taking over Korea in the early 20th century. 921 00:51:42,220 --> 00:51:43,540 What's this building here? 922 00:51:43,540 --> 00:51:44,780 This building is where 923 00:51:44,780 --> 00:51:47,740 most of the national ceremonies would happen. 924 00:51:47,740 --> 00:51:50,060 Events such as coronation 925 00:51:50,060 --> 00:51:52,540 or welcoming the foreign ambassadors. 926 00:51:53,540 --> 00:51:56,300 You can see that the path is separated into three parts, 927 00:51:56,300 --> 00:51:58,940 and the middle one is called the Royal Path. 928 00:51:58,940 --> 00:52:00,780 If you were to walk on this path, 929 00:52:00,780 --> 00:52:03,260 even though you were not a member of the family, 930 00:52:03,260 --> 00:52:04,500 then you would get punished 931 00:52:04,500 --> 00:52:08,980 by being hit on the butt with a stick 100 times. 932 00:52:08,980 --> 00:52:10,820 OK, well, let's stick over here then, shall we? 933 00:52:10,820 --> 00:52:13,100 A hundred times? Yes, yes. Wow. 934 00:52:13,100 --> 00:52:16,340 Now we'll look into this building where there is a king's throne. 935 00:52:16,340 --> 00:52:19,260 So this is the inner sanctum of the palace? 936 00:52:21,420 --> 00:52:23,860 And it's magnificent. 937 00:52:23,860 --> 00:52:25,980 Muted colours. But a lot of them. 938 00:52:27,860 --> 00:52:29,540 You see the painting, right? Yeah. 939 00:52:29,540 --> 00:52:31,700 And you'll see the moon. Mm-hm. 940 00:52:31,700 --> 00:52:33,340 And five hills. Yeah. 941 00:52:33,340 --> 00:52:37,620 And then the pine trees and the water that's flowing below. 942 00:52:37,620 --> 00:52:41,780 They each resemble a part of the kingdom. 943 00:52:43,620 --> 00:52:47,380 Korea's philosophy is based on the humanist beliefs of Confucius. 944 00:52:47,380 --> 00:52:51,620 Respect for others, compassion, humility, good things like that. 945 00:52:51,620 --> 00:52:53,780 And as this was where the king held audiences 946 00:52:53,780 --> 00:52:55,700 with foreign dignitaries, 947 00:52:55,700 --> 00:52:58,500 I suppose it was OK to show off a bit with the decor. 948 00:53:02,060 --> 00:53:06,260 Coming up, I find myself in need of a herbal cure... 949 00:53:06,260 --> 00:53:08,460 It is for boosting energy. 950 00:53:08,460 --> 00:53:10,340 To sharpen you up. SHE LAUGHS 951 00:53:10,340 --> 00:53:12,340 ..I hang out with the cool kids... 952 00:53:12,340 --> 00:53:14,500 A sort of Hoxton for senior citizens. 953 00:53:14,500 --> 00:53:16,860 ..and my taste buds get tickled. 954 00:53:16,860 --> 00:53:19,940 They even do eels here. Mmm! 955 00:53:30,420 --> 00:53:34,660 You could say innovation is the guiding light for Koreans. 956 00:53:34,660 --> 00:53:36,820 From the world's first iron printing press 957 00:53:36,820 --> 00:53:38,380 to the MP3 player, 958 00:53:38,380 --> 00:53:41,140 it's always looking to the future. 959 00:53:41,140 --> 00:53:45,540 It's also in love with robots... or Roberts, if you prefer. 960 00:53:45,540 --> 00:53:47,940 This is a very typically Korean thing. 961 00:53:47,940 --> 00:53:49,980 Beer and chicken. 962 00:53:49,980 --> 00:53:51,580 Well, I've got my beer, 963 00:53:51,580 --> 00:53:53,700 but the chicken I ordered by pressing this button. 964 00:53:55,180 --> 00:53:58,580 They brought me these ubiquitous South Korean implements, tongs. 965 00:53:58,580 --> 00:54:00,780 Don't know where I'll be without them when I get home. 966 00:54:00,780 --> 00:54:02,260 And my beer, which... 967 00:54:04,980 --> 00:54:07,060 ..is delicious. 968 00:54:07,060 --> 00:54:08,660 Just have to wait for the chicken now. 969 00:54:08,660 --> 00:54:10,460 FAINT WHIRRING 970 00:54:12,100 --> 00:54:15,060 WHIRRING CONTINUES 971 00:54:26,300 --> 00:54:27,460 Oh, there's nearly enough. 972 00:54:32,020 --> 00:54:35,580 This little fella is the world's first multifunctional waiter. 973 00:54:35,580 --> 00:54:37,260 It can load up to 50 kilos 974 00:54:37,260 --> 00:54:40,060 and serve tables for 12 hours without a break 975 00:54:40,060 --> 00:54:42,260 as long as it's across a flat floor. 976 00:54:42,260 --> 00:54:46,300 I mean, it's...it's fine. A little bit Clive Sinclair. 977 00:54:46,300 --> 00:54:47,980 It's disconcertingly lukewarm, 978 00:54:47,980 --> 00:54:50,340 considering it's just been cooked by a machine. 979 00:54:52,940 --> 00:54:54,900 Manning the stations in the kitchen 980 00:54:54,900 --> 00:55:00,020 is this robotic piledriver in chef's whites, 981 00:55:00,020 --> 00:55:03,300 plunging the chicken in and out of its hot bath. 982 00:55:04,260 --> 00:55:05,420 Maybe he wants a tip. 983 00:55:07,660 --> 00:55:09,500 Ah. And he will get one. 984 00:55:19,300 --> 00:55:23,020 With half of South Korea's population living in wider Seoul, 985 00:55:23,020 --> 00:55:25,700 circumnavigating it is not for the faint-hearted. 986 00:55:27,420 --> 00:55:32,180 Getting across town takes a hugely long time. 987 00:55:37,180 --> 00:55:41,500 Something we seem to have spent a very long time doing in Seoul 988 00:55:41,500 --> 00:55:43,740 is just waiting at traffic lights. 989 00:55:43,740 --> 00:55:45,300 They're red for yonks. 990 00:55:45,300 --> 00:55:47,500 I mean, they're green for yonks as well. 991 00:55:47,500 --> 00:55:50,860 But you pull up at traffic lights, you think, "We're here for a while." 992 00:55:50,860 --> 00:55:53,780 And then, about an hour later, you pull off. 993 00:55:53,780 --> 00:55:54,820 It feels like that anyway. 994 00:55:59,540 --> 00:56:02,820 Life in the fast lane can certainly play havoc with your health. 995 00:56:02,820 --> 00:56:05,140 So, for a dose of buck-you-up-o, 996 00:56:05,140 --> 00:56:07,060 I've been told to come here. 997 00:56:07,060 --> 00:56:08,980 I don't know what they're making here. That looks... 998 00:56:11,780 --> 00:56:14,460 ..I'm going to say less than appetising. 999 00:56:14,460 --> 00:56:18,020 This is where worn-out Koreans come for an ancient cure. 1000 00:56:18,020 --> 00:56:19,620 Yangnyeongsi market. 1001 00:56:19,620 --> 00:56:23,060 The mecca of South Korean herbal medicine. 1002 00:56:23,060 --> 00:56:24,140 Cobnuts. 1003 00:56:24,140 --> 00:56:27,140 Something for your hamster cage there. 1004 00:56:27,140 --> 00:56:29,900 Some delicious bark and root 1005 00:56:29,900 --> 00:56:33,340 and more root and some kind of dried fungus there. 1006 00:56:33,340 --> 00:56:35,220 And some nice twigs. 1007 00:56:35,220 --> 00:56:37,020 I mean, some fantastic kindling. 1008 00:56:37,020 --> 00:56:39,020 Just a phenomenal array of stuff. 1009 00:56:41,260 --> 00:56:44,540 There are around 1,000 herbal remedy businesses here 1010 00:56:44,540 --> 00:56:47,900 offering help with anything from blood pressure and piles 1011 00:56:47,900 --> 00:56:49,260 to genital warts. 1012 00:56:50,300 --> 00:56:51,420 And ironically, 1013 00:56:51,420 --> 00:56:53,380 unlike the supposed cures themselves, 1014 00:56:53,380 --> 00:56:55,380 the market isn't centuries old. 1015 00:56:57,180 --> 00:56:59,180 It popped up next to the old railway station 1016 00:56:59,180 --> 00:57:01,900 in the 1960s following the Korean War 1017 00:57:01,900 --> 00:57:04,540 when farmers travelled here to sell their produce. 1018 00:57:07,100 --> 00:57:09,260 The smell of this is just incredible. 1019 00:57:09,260 --> 00:57:11,500 Aromatics, botanicals, old wood, 1020 00:57:11,500 --> 00:57:14,220 more bits of hamster cage lining, more root. 1021 00:57:16,340 --> 00:57:18,500 To talk me through these mysterious ingredients, 1022 00:57:18,500 --> 00:57:20,220 I'm meeting Annie Heo, 1023 00:57:20,220 --> 00:57:21,820 who's an expert in the Korean approach 1024 00:57:21,820 --> 00:57:23,180 to taking care of pain. 1025 00:57:25,900 --> 00:57:27,180 Now, this looks like 1026 00:57:27,180 --> 00:57:30,380 the most fantastic display of different things. 1027 00:57:30,380 --> 00:57:32,300 We've got some antlers here. 1028 00:57:32,300 --> 00:57:34,460 We've got... What are these? 1029 00:57:34,460 --> 00:57:37,860 This is "eom" tree in Korean words. 1030 00:57:37,860 --> 00:57:40,180 There are a lot of thorns on it, right? Yeah. 1031 00:57:40,180 --> 00:57:45,620 It is very effective for boosting the energy for us. 1032 00:57:45,620 --> 00:57:47,900 It's to sharpen you up, I guess. Yeah. 1033 00:57:47,900 --> 00:57:50,220 I imagine it's not eaten whole. 1034 00:57:50,220 --> 00:57:51,700 And this antler? 1035 00:57:51,700 --> 00:57:54,260 These deer antlers are really good for, 1036 00:57:54,260 --> 00:57:57,100 especially for growing children. 1037 00:57:57,100 --> 00:57:58,420 And...and these? 1038 00:57:58,420 --> 00:58:01,420 It's dried frog. Oh! SHE LAUGHS 1039 00:58:01,420 --> 00:58:03,580 It's dried frog. Of course. Surprisingly. What's that for? 1040 00:58:03,580 --> 00:58:06,020 It contains a lot of proteins, 1041 00:58:06,020 --> 00:58:08,220 so it can also boost our immune system. 1042 00:58:08,220 --> 00:58:11,620 OK. So it'll get us jumping. Mm-hm! SHE LAUGHS 1043 00:58:11,620 --> 00:58:13,820 Jumping. Do you see? 1044 00:58:13,820 --> 00:58:17,420 Now, I wonder if Annie can recommend a little something. 1045 00:58:17,420 --> 00:58:20,620 So, something maybe to perk me up, gives a bit of pep. 1046 00:58:20,620 --> 00:58:23,580 Yeah, I can recommend something. OK. I'm in your hands. 1047 00:58:23,580 --> 00:58:25,860 THEY SPEAK KOREAN 1048 00:58:25,860 --> 00:58:27,500 I hope it's not the frog. 1049 00:58:27,500 --> 00:58:30,180 THEY CONTINUE CONVERSING IN KOREAN 1050 00:58:30,180 --> 00:58:32,180 HE GASPS 1051 00:58:32,180 --> 00:58:35,540 Wow. This is... What is this? Ginseng? 1052 00:58:35,540 --> 00:58:38,340 Ginseng. It's six-year-old red ginseng. 1053 00:58:38,340 --> 00:58:41,180 Very original Korean medicine. 1054 00:58:41,180 --> 00:58:43,500 And it's a root, is it? Yeah, it's a root. 1055 00:58:45,180 --> 00:58:47,380 Korean red ginseng is said to contain 1056 00:58:47,380 --> 00:58:50,820 more healing properties than any other variety. 1057 00:58:50,820 --> 00:58:54,220 As well as fighting fatigue and boosting the little grey cells, 1058 00:58:54,220 --> 00:58:56,940 I'm told that for gentlemen feeling under par, 1059 00:58:56,940 --> 00:58:59,940 it's a great alternative to Viagra. 1060 00:58:59,940 --> 00:59:01,900 Hmm. 1061 00:59:01,900 --> 00:59:03,460 How would you take it? 1062 00:59:03,460 --> 00:59:08,620 Oh, you need to bring it to the shop... Mm-hm. 1063 00:59:08,620 --> 00:59:13,180 ..to ask them to boil and steam it for two days. Wow. 1064 00:59:15,060 --> 00:59:17,460 This is where the magic happens. 1065 00:59:18,580 --> 00:59:21,780 And this picture of health is Young Choi Han... 1066 00:59:23,820 --> 00:59:27,140 ..who's been brewing ginseng for the past 30 years. 1067 00:59:27,140 --> 00:59:29,460 So, can we get some tea from here? 1068 00:59:33,940 --> 00:59:36,100 While my ginseng gets the two-day treatment, 1069 00:59:36,100 --> 00:59:38,380 here's one he prepared earlier. 1070 00:59:43,940 --> 00:59:47,300 Young Choi Han and his wife are ginseng wizards. 1071 00:59:48,860 --> 00:59:51,740 It's like a sort of apple press. Hmm. 1072 00:59:51,740 --> 00:59:54,540 Looks like that'll put the lead back in anyone's pencil. 1073 01:00:05,060 --> 01:00:07,260 I'm now intrigued to drink it. I can't wait. 1074 01:00:07,260 --> 01:00:10,260 I'm feeling better already, just watching the process. 1075 01:00:12,140 --> 01:00:13,660 Ah. 1076 01:00:13,660 --> 01:00:16,860 THEY SPEAK KOREAN 1077 01:00:24,940 --> 01:00:27,580 That's really nice, actually. 1078 01:00:27,580 --> 01:00:29,140 That's good. Mmm. 1079 01:00:29,140 --> 01:00:33,860 It has a taste a bit of malt extract, slightly of coffee. 1080 01:00:36,340 --> 01:00:38,100 THEY LAUGH 1081 01:00:38,100 --> 01:00:39,940 I look forward to reading the subtitles on that. 1082 01:00:41,220 --> 01:00:42,300 HE REPLIES IN KOREAN 1083 01:00:48,300 --> 01:00:50,820 Ginseng may be said to cure a lot of ills, 1084 01:00:50,820 --> 01:00:52,380 but it can't lay claim to being 1085 01:00:52,380 --> 01:00:55,900 the cause of South Korea's rapidly ageing population. 1086 01:00:57,060 --> 01:00:59,780 That's down to having the lowest birth rate in the world, 1087 01:00:59,780 --> 01:01:05,300 with almost half the country expected to be over 65 by 2050. 1088 01:01:05,300 --> 01:01:07,820 I just hope it's prepared for the post office queues 1089 01:01:07,820 --> 01:01:09,140 come pension day. 1090 01:01:10,340 --> 01:01:11,660 But what's also interesting 1091 01:01:11,660 --> 01:01:14,780 is how the older generation is reinventing retirement. 1092 01:01:16,420 --> 01:01:19,100 One of the things I've noticed 1093 01:01:19,100 --> 01:01:22,260 is that the whole K fashion phenomenon 1094 01:01:22,260 --> 01:01:24,740 is absolutely not limited to the young. 1095 01:01:24,740 --> 01:01:28,220 No, no, no. The older fashionista here in Seoul 1096 01:01:28,220 --> 01:01:30,940 is absolutely as noticeable. 1097 01:01:30,940 --> 01:01:35,140 Just people in their 50s, 60s, 70s, all dressing incredibly sharply. 1098 01:01:35,140 --> 01:01:36,980 They come to these flea markets 1099 01:01:36,980 --> 01:01:39,540 and they buy these fantastic vintage clothes. 1100 01:01:46,100 --> 01:01:50,500 Looking around, I begin to realise how rubbishly I'm dressed. 1101 01:01:50,500 --> 01:01:53,420 Maybe I should check out those trousers here. 1102 01:01:53,420 --> 01:01:54,540 Oh, look. There we are. 1103 01:01:54,540 --> 01:01:56,660 There's a fashion shoot going on right here. 1104 01:01:59,140 --> 01:02:01,060 PHOTOGRAPHER SPEAKING IN KOREAN 1105 01:02:05,740 --> 01:02:06,820 What's going on here? 1106 01:02:06,820 --> 01:02:11,300 The person looks so nice, so I take a picture. 1107 01:02:11,300 --> 01:02:15,740 So you come down here and find whoever's looking sharp? Yeah. 1108 01:02:15,740 --> 01:02:19,100 Older people take their appearances very, very seriously. 1109 01:02:19,100 --> 01:02:20,700 Yeah, I think it's a Korean thing. 1110 01:02:21,900 --> 01:02:23,740 Photographer Dong Hyun Kim 1111 01:02:23,740 --> 01:02:27,580 has been snapping Seoul's senior hipsters for the past two years 1112 01:02:27,580 --> 01:02:31,820 and has even brought out a book featuring these funksters. 1113 01:02:31,820 --> 01:02:34,380 He believes the old are just as "mat", 1114 01:02:34,380 --> 01:02:37,100 Korean for cool - keep up - as the young. 1115 01:02:37,100 --> 01:02:38,580 These guys look amazing. 1116 01:02:38,580 --> 01:02:42,460 So tell me about your military fashion. 1117 01:02:56,500 --> 01:02:59,060 It's a great look. Very strong. I like the gloves. 1118 01:02:59,060 --> 01:03:01,620 And where do you get your clothes? 1119 01:03:01,620 --> 01:03:04,020 I made them. You made these? Yeah. 1120 01:03:04,020 --> 01:03:06,780 Absolutely wonderful. Beautiful jewellery as well. 1121 01:03:06,780 --> 01:03:08,500 Yeah. Very, very chic. 1122 01:03:12,300 --> 01:03:13,900 That was kind of interesting, wasn't it? 1123 01:03:13,900 --> 01:03:16,300 A sort of Hoxton for senior citizens. 1124 01:03:16,300 --> 01:03:19,100 Slightly odd that they wore military clothes, 1125 01:03:19,100 --> 01:03:21,300 particularly given that a country that's been 1126 01:03:21,300 --> 01:03:23,500 under military occupation in living memory, 1127 01:03:23,500 --> 01:03:26,340 it's strange to fetishize the US Army gear. 1128 01:03:26,340 --> 01:03:28,340 But, you know, each to their own. It was nice. 1129 01:03:28,340 --> 01:03:30,340 They were having a lovely time. 1130 01:03:30,340 --> 01:03:32,580 And quite nice threads there as well. 1131 01:03:37,260 --> 01:03:40,260 Browsing through Seoul's street markets is hungry work. 1132 01:03:40,260 --> 01:03:42,100 So, on recommendation 1133 01:03:42,100 --> 01:03:43,860 I'm heading to a local restaurant 1134 01:03:43,860 --> 01:03:46,580 where I'm going to try a 600-year-old snack. 1135 01:03:50,820 --> 01:03:52,620 I asked if I could see the menu, 1136 01:03:52,620 --> 01:03:54,780 and it would appear I already have. 1137 01:03:54,780 --> 01:03:57,980 They even do eels here. Mmm! 1138 01:03:57,980 --> 01:03:59,820 Eels five ways. 1139 01:04:00,980 --> 01:04:04,300 Actually, it's loach. It's a freshwater Korean eel. 1140 01:04:08,820 --> 01:04:10,140 These nimble little guys 1141 01:04:10,140 --> 01:04:12,900 are dug out of ponds and irrigated rice fields, 1142 01:04:12,900 --> 01:04:14,540 boiled and sieved. 1143 01:04:14,540 --> 01:04:18,220 They're made into a stew-like soup called Chueo-tang. 1144 01:04:18,220 --> 01:04:21,020 Oh, wow. 1145 01:04:21,020 --> 01:04:24,140 Whereas back home, we prefer to have them in an aquarium, 1146 01:04:24,140 --> 01:04:25,740 keeping the goldfish company. 1147 01:04:25,740 --> 01:04:30,340 Now, this is sesame pepper, I think I was told. 1148 01:04:30,340 --> 01:04:33,060 Put that in there. CUTLERY CLINKING 1149 01:04:33,060 --> 01:04:37,820 Some garlic and chilli, which I can add to taste. 1150 01:04:37,820 --> 01:04:39,340 That's my taste. 1151 01:04:39,340 --> 01:04:42,260 And I think I need to put these in as well. 1152 01:04:42,260 --> 01:04:43,740 SCRAPING 1153 01:04:46,180 --> 01:04:47,460 Oh, it's delicious. 1154 01:04:47,460 --> 01:04:50,780 Very lemongrassy. Not remotely fishy. 1155 01:04:53,700 --> 01:04:56,860 It's really good. It's very hot. 1156 01:04:58,060 --> 01:05:01,340 These are little fried eels. 1157 01:05:01,340 --> 01:05:03,260 One of the things I love about Korean food 1158 01:05:03,260 --> 01:05:06,180 is you just get given about a million little bowls of things. 1159 01:05:07,420 --> 01:05:10,580 Mmm. These are delicious. 1160 01:05:11,620 --> 01:05:12,940 Coming up, 1161 01:05:12,940 --> 01:05:14,620 things kick off... 1162 01:05:14,620 --> 01:05:18,220 And this is why you must never pick a fight with a Korean. 1163 01:05:18,220 --> 01:05:20,460 ..I go down a storm in a dance studio. 1164 01:05:20,460 --> 01:05:22,780 Yeah! Wow! Wow, indeed. 1165 01:05:22,780 --> 01:05:25,140 And I hear what it's like to defect from the North. 1166 01:05:38,140 --> 01:05:40,980 What I've noticed during my time in Korea is that 1167 01:05:40,980 --> 01:05:44,180 though it may look like one big, chaotic adventure playground, 1168 01:05:44,180 --> 01:05:48,020 actually, the level of organisation knows no bounds. 1169 01:05:48,020 --> 01:05:50,220 Even when it comes to politics. 1170 01:05:50,220 --> 01:05:52,060 Especially when it comes to politics. 1171 01:05:54,420 --> 01:05:56,940 Now, this plaza here, this square, 1172 01:05:56,940 --> 01:05:59,180 unhelpfully, I'm afraid it's all behind hoardings at the moment, 1173 01:05:59,180 --> 01:06:02,900 but this is where everybody comes to protest in Seoul. 1174 01:06:02,900 --> 01:06:05,060 And Seoul being Seoul, if you want to protest, 1175 01:06:05,060 --> 01:06:06,820 you have to book in. 1176 01:06:06,820 --> 01:06:08,340 You register months in advance, 1177 01:06:08,340 --> 01:06:10,500 and you're given a start time and an end time. 1178 01:06:10,500 --> 01:06:12,060 You turn up at the start time, 1179 01:06:12,060 --> 01:06:15,180 and crowds and masses, they campaign throughout the day, 1180 01:06:15,180 --> 01:06:16,860 and then, when they have to shut down, 1181 01:06:16,860 --> 01:06:18,220 they pick up all their rubbish 1182 01:06:18,220 --> 01:06:19,620 and they leave the place looking immaculate. 1183 01:06:19,620 --> 01:06:21,100 Now, if you think for a minute 1184 01:06:21,100 --> 01:06:23,380 that this isn't going to be an effective form of protest, 1185 01:06:23,380 --> 01:06:24,540 think again. 1186 01:06:24,540 --> 01:06:29,180 They managed to overthrow the last president but one in 2018. 1187 01:06:29,180 --> 01:06:31,860 So actually very powerful indeed. We should all take note. 1188 01:06:35,380 --> 01:06:36,980 WHISTLING 1189 01:06:36,980 --> 01:06:38,500 OK. Second floor. 1190 01:06:39,820 --> 01:06:40,900 This must be it. 1191 01:06:42,660 --> 01:06:43,940 Talking of politics, 1192 01:06:43,940 --> 01:06:46,100 I'm about to meet a North Korean defector. 1193 01:06:47,140 --> 01:06:50,860 Glad I've gone for a jaunty sock today. 1194 01:06:55,420 --> 01:06:58,380 Hello? Hello? 1195 01:07:04,100 --> 01:07:07,580 Hello? 1196 01:07:08,900 --> 01:07:10,740 Hello? 1197 01:07:10,740 --> 01:07:13,460 Oh! Oh, hello. 1198 01:07:16,460 --> 01:07:18,660 This is Shin-Ae Cho, 1199 01:07:18,660 --> 01:07:20,460 a traditional North Korean dancer 1200 01:07:20,460 --> 01:07:23,340 who defected to the South ten years ago. 1201 01:07:23,340 --> 01:07:25,100 Show me your dance. I'd love to see it. 1202 01:07:25,100 --> 01:07:28,860 We're going to do some dancing. Although happily, mainly her. 1203 01:07:34,580 --> 01:07:36,260 SHE GRUNTS Like that? 1204 01:07:37,660 --> 01:07:40,780 All right? Tighter? Tighter. 1205 01:07:40,780 --> 01:07:42,420 Ah. Come on. SHE GRUNTS 1206 01:07:42,420 --> 01:07:45,620 Yeah! 1207 01:07:45,620 --> 01:07:47,460 I'm already a bit scared. 1208 01:07:47,460 --> 01:07:48,620 HE GRUNTS 1209 01:07:48,620 --> 01:07:52,900 OK! Oh, good! Good. Oh. 1210 01:07:52,900 --> 01:07:55,060 HE SIGHS 1211 01:07:55,060 --> 01:07:58,340 TRADITIONAL KOREAN MUSIC PLAYING 1212 01:08:02,540 --> 01:08:04,860 SHE BEATS DRUM RHYTHMICALLY 1213 01:08:14,500 --> 01:08:15,780 MUSIC FADES 1214 01:08:15,780 --> 01:08:18,580 Oh, fantastic! 1215 01:08:20,260 --> 01:08:22,940 But Shin-Ae has something else up her sleeve. 1216 01:08:22,940 --> 01:08:25,060 Ooh! 1217 01:08:28,140 --> 01:08:30,700 Half fan, half magician's hanky. 1218 01:08:32,020 --> 01:08:33,860 Oh, it's beautiful. 1219 01:08:35,460 --> 01:08:37,100 It's like a flame. 1220 01:08:39,420 --> 01:08:42,260 Beautiful. Wonderful. 1221 01:08:42,260 --> 01:08:43,700 Ah! Absolutely wonderful. 1222 01:08:46,060 --> 01:08:48,300 Oh, thank you. Can I? Yeah, yeah. 1223 01:08:48,300 --> 01:08:50,700 You've got to hope I'm better at this than tying on drums. 1224 01:08:55,020 --> 01:08:56,940 SHE YELLS Ah. 1225 01:08:56,940 --> 01:08:59,060 SHE VOCALISES 1226 01:09:07,060 --> 01:09:08,100 Oh, yeah! 1227 01:09:08,100 --> 01:09:09,740 Yay! 1228 01:09:09,740 --> 01:09:12,340 So, not completely useless. 1229 01:09:13,380 --> 01:09:16,340 Oh, wow! Ooh! HE LAUGHS 1230 01:09:18,260 --> 01:09:19,260 It's very flattering! 1231 01:09:21,340 --> 01:09:22,740 SHE VOCALISES AND ALEXANDER REPEATS 1232 01:09:22,740 --> 01:09:24,020 OK. 1233 01:09:30,380 --> 01:09:34,180 Oh! Oh, yeah! Beautiful! 1234 01:09:34,180 --> 01:09:37,020 Now, I may look awkward, but I don't feel it. 1235 01:09:38,820 --> 01:09:40,300 I'm reluctant to move. 1236 01:09:42,500 --> 01:09:44,260 GASPS IN DISCOMFORT 1237 01:09:44,260 --> 01:09:45,620 Oh! 1238 01:09:45,620 --> 01:09:46,780 Oh, good. 1239 01:09:49,980 --> 01:09:53,980 I'm fascinated by how Shin-Ae has achieved success here in the South. 1240 01:09:53,980 --> 01:09:55,260 Compared to North Korea, 1241 01:09:55,260 --> 01:09:57,380 it must seem like the promised land. 1242 01:09:59,540 --> 01:10:01,100 Ah. Aha. 1243 01:10:01,100 --> 01:10:02,540 Come and have a look at this. 1244 01:10:08,020 --> 01:10:09,780 There is the Korean flag. 1245 01:10:09,780 --> 01:10:12,180 I mean, it represents the entirety of the country. 1246 01:10:12,180 --> 01:10:15,620 The white background is the land, 1247 01:10:15,620 --> 01:10:17,060 the red and blue, 1248 01:10:17,060 --> 01:10:20,100 the slightly Pepsi-looking logo in the middle, is the people, 1249 01:10:20,100 --> 01:10:22,380 the yin and yang, the red and blue, they're the people, 1250 01:10:22,380 --> 01:10:25,060 and then the four trigrams around it, if I have it right, 1251 01:10:25,060 --> 01:10:28,980 is geon, gam, gon and ri, 1252 01:10:28,980 --> 01:10:33,860 which is to say air, water, earth, fire. 1253 01:10:33,860 --> 01:10:37,020 And together they make the magic, the whole magic, 1254 01:10:37,020 --> 01:10:39,620 the complete magic of Korea. 1255 01:10:44,060 --> 01:10:47,180 But that South Korean magic has been born out of hostility. 1256 01:10:49,020 --> 01:10:52,860 After the Second World War, Korea was split in two. 1257 01:10:52,860 --> 01:10:55,700 The Soviet Union became the caretakers of the North, 1258 01:10:55,700 --> 01:10:58,100 and the United States oversaw the South. 1259 01:11:00,820 --> 01:11:04,500 Soon, communist North had its sights on the South, 1260 01:11:04,500 --> 01:11:06,900 and in 1950 it invaded, 1261 01:11:06,900 --> 01:11:09,060 launching the devastating Korean War. 1262 01:11:10,260 --> 01:11:12,620 With the help of the US and its allies, 1263 01:11:12,620 --> 01:11:15,660 South Korea fended off the communists three years later. 1264 01:11:19,300 --> 01:11:22,740 North Korea's looming presence is now felt across the world. 1265 01:11:22,740 --> 01:11:24,580 And I want to find out from Shin-Ae... 1266 01:11:24,580 --> 01:11:25,700 This is incredible. 1267 01:11:25,700 --> 01:11:28,860 ..why and how she defected to the South. 1268 01:11:30,540 --> 01:11:33,940 Can I ask what your route to South Korea was? 1269 01:12:10,020 --> 01:12:11,420 You have to put your life 1270 01:12:11,420 --> 01:12:13,900 in the hands of people you...you don't know. 1271 01:12:26,140 --> 01:12:28,060 What was it like in North Korea? 1272 01:12:28,060 --> 01:12:29,500 How would you describe it? 1273 01:12:29,500 --> 01:12:31,420 SHE LAUGHS NERVOUSLY 1274 01:12:52,980 --> 01:12:54,180 It's bizarre, isn't it, 1275 01:12:54,180 --> 01:12:58,620 that two countries that sit so close geographically 1276 01:12:58,620 --> 01:13:01,220 couldn't be further apart politically. 1277 01:13:01,220 --> 01:13:02,860 And, now, culturally. 1278 01:13:04,140 --> 01:13:06,780 You've still got family in North Korea. 1279 01:13:15,420 --> 01:13:17,420 So you have one daughter here, 1280 01:13:17,420 --> 01:13:18,740 but the rest of your family, 1281 01:13:18,740 --> 01:13:22,180 presumably you have no contact with them at all. 1282 01:13:26,220 --> 01:13:29,500 And how can you make contact with them? Or...are you able to say? 1283 01:13:35,660 --> 01:13:37,820 Well, that's a... that's a blessing, at least. 1284 01:13:46,020 --> 01:13:48,380 That was so interesting, wasn't it? 1285 01:13:48,380 --> 01:13:50,620 You just don't know if you'll end up in a ditch 1286 01:13:50,620 --> 01:13:54,340 or if you're going to be trafficked and sold to other people. 1287 01:13:54,340 --> 01:13:56,900 I mean, you are as vulnerable as you could possibly be. 1288 01:13:58,540 --> 01:14:03,220 To risk all of that shows extraordinary spirit, I think. 1289 01:14:14,420 --> 01:14:17,620 The ceasefire with the North came in 1953, 1290 01:14:17,620 --> 01:14:20,300 but a peace treaty was never actually signed. 1291 01:14:21,300 --> 01:14:24,260 It's not surprising, then, that South Korea's national sport 1292 01:14:24,260 --> 01:14:26,900 is all based on strength and self-defence. 1293 01:14:30,060 --> 01:14:31,420 Whoa! 1294 01:14:31,420 --> 01:14:33,060 CLAPPING 1295 01:14:33,060 --> 01:14:36,740 And this is why you must never pick a fight with a Korean. 1296 01:14:36,740 --> 01:14:40,900 All the men do National Service, and they all learn taekwondo. 1297 01:14:43,780 --> 01:14:46,700 They're so incredibly balletic. 1298 01:14:46,700 --> 01:14:50,020 You might think this is a discipline that has its roots 1299 01:14:50,020 --> 01:14:55,700 way back in some dynastic, prehistoric Korean time, but no. 1300 01:14:55,700 --> 01:15:00,260 Taekwondo as we know it today was actually formed in the 1950s. 1301 01:15:00,260 --> 01:15:02,540 I mean, it brings all kinds of different martial arts 1302 01:15:02,540 --> 01:15:04,460 from various other traditions together 1303 01:15:04,460 --> 01:15:06,900 and puts them in a specifically Korean discipline. 1304 01:15:09,180 --> 01:15:11,620 TAEKWONDO MASTER YELLS 1305 01:15:11,620 --> 01:15:13,740 Makes my back hurt just watching it. 1306 01:15:18,140 --> 01:15:20,620 Another favourite pastime in South Korea 1307 01:15:20,620 --> 01:15:22,940 is something far less energetic. 1308 01:15:22,940 --> 01:15:25,940 An activity which some people may think unusual, 1309 01:15:25,940 --> 01:15:29,220 but here is a huge moneymaking business. 1310 01:15:29,220 --> 01:15:30,260 Fortune-telling. 1311 01:15:32,740 --> 01:15:35,140 And it's not a mystical or kooky thing. 1312 01:15:35,140 --> 01:15:37,980 Quite simply, they want to have a look ahead 1313 01:15:37,980 --> 01:15:39,660 and do a little bit of forward planning. 1314 01:15:39,660 --> 01:15:41,580 You see? Pragmatic to the last. 1315 01:15:42,700 --> 01:15:45,740 Well, let's see what the cards have in store for me, shall we? 1316 01:15:45,740 --> 01:15:47,140 Ah, hello. 1317 01:15:48,500 --> 01:15:51,340 Sung-hyun Han is a tarot reader. 1318 01:15:53,820 --> 01:15:54,820 Fifty-two. 1319 01:15:57,140 --> 01:15:59,180 Television presenter. 1320 01:15:59,180 --> 01:16:02,700 Now I know what it feels like to be a quiz show contestant. 1321 01:16:04,700 --> 01:16:07,820 It's about 25 years. 1322 01:16:08,860 --> 01:16:10,260 Yes, I know it's a long time. 1323 01:16:18,140 --> 01:16:19,460 Oh, don't ask me that! 1324 01:16:19,460 --> 01:16:21,500 Not in front of everyone! 1325 01:16:21,500 --> 01:16:22,540 Um... 1326 01:16:22,540 --> 01:16:24,580 Yeah, go on. Good luck. 1327 01:16:24,580 --> 01:16:26,140 I suppose... 1328 01:16:26,140 --> 01:16:27,220 Mm-hm. 1329 01:16:29,140 --> 01:16:30,260 Go on. 1330 01:16:30,260 --> 01:16:32,020 Well, um, happiness. 1331 01:16:32,020 --> 01:16:34,140 Oh, nice. Nice. Happiness. 1332 01:16:54,780 --> 01:16:56,780 I'm not going to give you any help. 1333 01:17:07,420 --> 01:17:08,420 Hmm. Interesting. 1334 01:17:12,060 --> 01:17:13,340 Now you're talking! 1335 01:17:17,420 --> 01:17:19,580 Well, all food for thought, I suppose. 1336 01:17:22,420 --> 01:17:25,900 He used one image that I've used myself 1337 01:17:25,900 --> 01:17:29,060 when I bang on to my poor, long-suffering wife 1338 01:17:29,060 --> 01:17:32,780 about...about...about my life. 1339 01:17:32,780 --> 01:17:35,860 I imagine it structures itself around seven cards. 1340 01:17:35,860 --> 01:17:39,220 And therefore, he can talk about how things are at the moment, 1341 01:17:39,220 --> 01:17:40,700 how things will be in the future. 1342 01:17:40,700 --> 01:17:44,180 And he can hang whatever the cards say 1343 01:17:44,180 --> 01:17:46,780 a perspective, I suppose, on your state of affairs. 1344 01:17:48,300 --> 01:17:52,180 Coming up, I'm playing the Red Light, Green Light game. 1345 01:17:52,180 --> 01:17:56,100 And if you don't know what that is, it doesn't end well. 1346 01:17:56,100 --> 01:17:59,660 Somewhere there's a sniper. Presumably, I'm in his crosshairs. 1347 01:17:59,660 --> 01:18:03,180 And I have a lovely time banging things. 1348 01:18:03,180 --> 01:18:05,460 That's more fun than I've had for years! 1349 01:18:14,940 --> 01:18:17,900 While many South Koreans wallow in pop culture, 1350 01:18:17,900 --> 01:18:20,420 others have a more traditional take on life, 1351 01:18:20,420 --> 01:18:22,220 especially when it comes to music. 1352 01:18:24,220 --> 01:18:25,900 Korea has not only given us 1353 01:18:25,900 --> 01:18:27,780 some of the greatest classical musicians 1354 01:18:27,780 --> 01:18:29,660 the world has ever known, 1355 01:18:29,660 --> 01:18:31,540 it also has a style of drumming 1356 01:18:31,540 --> 01:18:33,220 that is said to be more sophisticated 1357 01:18:33,220 --> 01:18:34,740 in its intricate rhythms 1358 01:18:34,740 --> 01:18:37,420 than anything else in the world. 1359 01:18:37,420 --> 01:18:40,940 And I think this is where I'm coming to have a lesson in drumming. 1360 01:18:40,940 --> 01:18:43,540 DRUM PLAYING RHYTHMICALLY 1361 01:18:45,300 --> 01:18:47,700 My drum master is So Ra Kim, 1362 01:18:47,700 --> 01:18:50,340 a highly acclaimed percussionist and performer 1363 01:18:50,340 --> 01:18:54,700 who's been playing Korean folk music for the past 20 years. 1364 01:18:54,700 --> 01:18:56,220 MUSIC FADES 1365 01:18:56,220 --> 01:18:58,460 Ah! Absolutely terrific! 1366 01:18:59,620 --> 01:19:05,060 So Ra Kim's drum is called a janggu, better known as slim waist drum. 1367 01:19:05,060 --> 01:19:06,540 It may look like an egg timer, 1368 01:19:06,540 --> 01:19:08,500 but it's an instrument with pedigree, 1369 01:19:08,500 --> 01:19:10,140 dating back to the tenth century. 1370 01:19:10,140 --> 01:19:14,180 It's bashed each side with two different types of sticks. 1371 01:19:14,180 --> 01:19:15,540 We call it yeolchae. 1372 01:19:15,540 --> 01:19:16,700 Yeolchae. 1373 01:19:16,700 --> 01:19:18,620 It's called gungchae. Gungchae. 1374 01:19:18,620 --> 01:19:21,420 These two drumheads are different? 1375 01:19:21,420 --> 01:19:27,100 The left side, it's always like a plain, low sound. Yeah. 1376 01:19:27,100 --> 01:19:29,900 Right sound is a more high tone. Yeah. 1377 01:19:29,900 --> 01:19:32,060 HIGH-PITCHED SOUND Oh, I see. 1378 01:19:32,060 --> 01:19:34,780 So, today I'm going to teach you. 1379 01:19:34,780 --> 01:19:37,940 OK! Yeah! SHE LAUGHS 1380 01:19:38,980 --> 01:19:41,180 Now, this could be interesting. 1381 01:19:41,180 --> 01:19:43,620 Your left hand, please. Mm-hm. 1382 01:19:43,620 --> 01:19:46,580 LOW-PITCHED SOUND Yes. And then this one. 1383 01:19:46,580 --> 01:19:48,580 And where do you hit with that? Like...? 1384 01:19:48,580 --> 01:19:50,020 Like this. In the middle. 1385 01:19:50,020 --> 01:19:51,820 Gung. Good. Good. 1386 01:19:51,820 --> 01:19:56,500 So, when together, deong. Deong. 1387 01:19:56,500 --> 01:20:02,100 Deong. And then, using the left side, like a gung. 1388 01:20:02,100 --> 01:20:03,220 LOW-PITCHED SOUND 1389 01:20:03,220 --> 01:20:06,300 Tta! Gung. HIGH-PITCHED AND LOW-PITCHED SOUNDS 1390 01:20:06,300 --> 01:20:10,020 Deong, deong. Gung, tta. 1391 01:20:10,020 --> 01:20:12,540 Gung, tta, gung. Oh. LOW-, HIGH- AND LOW-PITCHED SOUNDS 1392 01:20:12,540 --> 01:20:14,220 Yeah! Good! 1393 01:20:14,220 --> 01:20:19,100 Yeah. And then, deong, gung, tta, gung, tta. 1394 01:20:19,100 --> 01:20:21,020 Deong, deong, deong. 1395 01:20:21,020 --> 01:20:23,180 Gung, tta, gung, tta. 1396 01:20:23,180 --> 01:20:24,180 Good! 1397 01:20:24,180 --> 01:20:27,260 Deong, deong, deong. Gung, tta, gung, tta. Great! 1398 01:20:27,260 --> 01:20:31,900 When I say, "olshigu", you can say, "jotta". Jotta. 1399 01:20:31,900 --> 01:20:35,220 Deong, deong, gung, tta, gung, tta. 1400 01:20:35,220 --> 01:20:37,660 ALEXANDER REPLICATES THE RHYTHM 1401 01:20:37,660 --> 01:20:42,140 Good! Jotta! Jotta. 1402 01:20:42,140 --> 01:20:43,460 Good. 1403 01:20:43,460 --> 01:20:44,620 Jotta! 1404 01:20:44,620 --> 01:20:46,820 Jotta! Jotta. 1405 01:20:46,820 --> 01:20:47,900 Jotta! 1406 01:20:47,900 --> 01:20:49,940 RHYTHMIC DRUMMING CONTINUES 1407 01:20:49,940 --> 01:20:51,220 Jotta! Jotta! 1408 01:20:51,220 --> 01:20:53,940 Yeah! 1409 01:20:53,940 --> 01:20:55,380 DRUMMING INTENSIFIES 1410 01:20:55,380 --> 01:20:56,700 Jotta! Great! 1411 01:20:58,780 --> 01:21:04,100 Olshigu! 1412 01:21:04,100 --> 01:21:05,940 Yeah! 1413 01:21:05,940 --> 01:21:07,500 SO RA KIM SHOUTS IN KOREAN 1414 01:21:07,500 --> 01:21:10,340 TOGETHER: Jotta! 1415 01:21:10,340 --> 01:21:11,820 Great! SHE LAUGHS 1416 01:21:11,820 --> 01:21:14,620 That's more fun than I've had for years. 1417 01:21:14,620 --> 01:21:15,900 HE LAUGHS 1418 01:21:15,900 --> 01:21:17,020 That was terrific. 1419 01:21:17,020 --> 01:21:21,180 I mean, if anyone's looking for a drummer, I am available. 1420 01:21:22,220 --> 01:21:23,500 There's something about drums. 1421 01:21:23,500 --> 01:21:27,300 You just have to join in, get with it. 1422 01:21:27,300 --> 01:21:28,780 So, yeah, I loved that. 1423 01:21:28,780 --> 01:21:31,020 I loved that she was so nice about my drum playing. 1424 01:21:31,020 --> 01:21:32,900 I bet she says that to all the drummers. 1425 01:21:32,900 --> 01:21:35,300 DRUMMING ENDS WITH A FLOURISH 1426 01:21:44,860 --> 01:21:47,740 Well, what a stormy day this has turned out to be. 1427 01:21:49,940 --> 01:21:53,100 Perfect weather for a day trip to Ulsan. 1428 01:21:53,100 --> 01:21:54,260 Did you know Ulsan is 1429 01:21:54,260 --> 01:21:57,860 where the world's biggest car assembly plant is? 1430 01:21:57,860 --> 01:22:00,260 Also the world's biggest shipyard. 1431 01:22:00,260 --> 01:22:03,620 Also the world's third-biggest oil refinery. 1432 01:22:03,620 --> 01:22:05,700 Located in the country's southeast, 1433 01:22:05,700 --> 01:22:09,220 Ulsan is South Korea's most industrialised city. 1434 01:22:10,180 --> 01:22:12,340 It's hard to imagine 60 years ago 1435 01:22:12,340 --> 01:22:14,260 it was a small fishing town. 1436 01:22:14,260 --> 01:22:15,700 Now look at it. 1437 01:22:20,740 --> 01:22:23,980 But the city hasn't forgotten its humble origins. 1438 01:22:23,980 --> 01:22:26,020 I'm visiting the Cultural Museum, 1439 01:22:26,020 --> 01:22:29,300 where they've reconstructed life in mid-century Ulsan, 1440 01:22:29,300 --> 01:22:31,820 with a particular emphasis on childhood. 1441 01:22:34,100 --> 01:22:36,300 I'm here to spend a cheerful afternoon 1442 01:22:36,300 --> 01:22:38,780 playing innocent children's playground games, 1443 01:22:38,780 --> 01:22:42,260 which, thanks to the massive global TV hit Squid Game, 1444 01:22:42,260 --> 01:22:45,260 are suddenly, weirdly, all the rage. 1445 01:22:48,380 --> 01:22:49,900 Now, for anyone who doesn't know, 1446 01:22:49,900 --> 01:22:53,700 Squid Game is an absolutely harrowing TV drama 1447 01:22:53,700 --> 01:22:56,860 made here in South Korea that's taken the world by storm, 1448 01:22:56,860 --> 01:23:00,660 in which people play out traditional playground games 1449 01:23:00,660 --> 01:23:03,860 to their fatal consequences. 1450 01:23:03,860 --> 01:23:06,940 Squid Game's story is the ultimate reality show. 1451 01:23:06,940 --> 01:23:10,260 You win a billion dollars by playing lots of kids' games. 1452 01:23:10,260 --> 01:23:12,820 I'm going to be meeting my opponents. 1453 01:23:12,820 --> 01:23:15,540 The twist being the losers are all killed. 1454 01:23:24,340 --> 01:23:25,340 Ah! 1455 01:23:26,580 --> 01:23:30,340 Hi. Wow. Thank you very much. 1456 01:23:30,340 --> 01:23:31,500 I guess. 1457 01:23:33,140 --> 01:23:34,940 This is my destiny. 1458 01:23:34,940 --> 01:23:37,860 TENSE MUSIC PLAYING 1459 01:23:41,500 --> 01:23:44,420 Yeah. Not quite sure why I'm the only player wearing 1460 01:23:44,420 --> 01:23:46,700 the actual kit from the TV show, but hey-ho! 1461 01:23:50,740 --> 01:23:53,340 This is Grandma's Footsteps. 1462 01:23:53,340 --> 01:23:56,420 Or Red Light, Green Light, as it's called in Squid Game. 1463 01:23:57,660 --> 01:24:01,580 Somewhere there's a sniper. Presumably, I'm in his crosshairs. 1464 01:24:01,580 --> 01:24:04,260 Now, an athlete like me... 1465 01:24:04,260 --> 01:24:06,100 Look, I've got a tracksuit and everything! 1466 01:24:06,100 --> 01:24:08,700 ..can surely see off this under-ten regional heat. 1467 01:24:15,020 --> 01:24:16,740 Of course, in the Squid Game version, 1468 01:24:16,740 --> 01:24:19,540 it's a giant mechanical doll at the front 1469 01:24:19,540 --> 01:24:21,500 and anyone not standing perfectly still 1470 01:24:21,500 --> 01:24:23,900 when the head turns is shot. 1471 01:24:24,940 --> 01:24:27,580 Pointlessly. 1472 01:24:27,580 --> 01:24:29,900 But I'm guessing, given I'm doing the voice-over, 1473 01:24:29,900 --> 01:24:32,660 we all make it through the day unharmed. 1474 01:24:33,820 --> 01:24:36,460 TENSE MUSIC AND SLOW DRUMBEATS 1475 01:24:42,140 --> 01:24:44,180 That's the first victim. 1476 01:24:44,180 --> 01:24:45,460 I'm going to walk this. 1477 01:24:53,340 --> 01:24:55,540 TENSE MUSIC CONTINUES PLAYING 1478 01:24:55,540 --> 01:24:58,140 Uh-oh. 1479 01:24:58,140 --> 01:24:59,180 Do I live? 1480 01:25:00,540 --> 01:25:02,980 Oh, it's the uncertainty I can't stand. 1481 01:25:08,540 --> 01:25:11,660 But it's interesting how actually the Squid Game dynamic 1482 01:25:11,660 --> 01:25:14,540 has sort of put a bit of an edge to this. 1483 01:25:14,540 --> 01:25:17,500 What used to be a fairly staid game has now become... 1484 01:25:17,500 --> 01:25:18,620 CHILDREN SHRIEKING 1485 01:25:18,620 --> 01:25:20,980 ..it's just become a bit more dangerous, as you can hear. 1486 01:25:27,260 --> 01:25:30,340 Next up is the Dalgona Candy challenge. 1487 01:25:30,340 --> 01:25:33,860 Here we all make a melted sugar wafery thing. 1488 01:25:33,860 --> 01:25:36,300 Everyone's trusted with this sort of hot flame... 1489 01:25:36,300 --> 01:25:38,060 ..into which a shape is stamped. 1490 01:25:40,780 --> 01:25:42,380 DRUM CLANGING 1491 01:25:42,380 --> 01:25:44,580 And you have to remove the shape from the biscuit 1492 01:25:44,580 --> 01:25:46,980 with a toothpick without breaking it. 1493 01:25:46,980 --> 01:25:49,540 I know. Silly. I didn't make it up. 1494 01:25:49,540 --> 01:25:51,980 Hmm. I think I've been set up here. 1495 01:25:51,980 --> 01:25:53,740 Obviously, I got the umbrella. 1496 01:25:54,740 --> 01:25:55,940 Well done. 1497 01:25:55,940 --> 01:25:58,300 Hey! You live. 1498 01:25:58,300 --> 01:25:59,420 You "keu". 1499 01:26:00,980 --> 01:26:04,060 Now, if you put so much as a chip in your shape, you're out. 1500 01:26:04,060 --> 01:26:06,220 And we have to...? Oh. 1501 01:26:06,220 --> 01:26:08,420 TENSE MUSIC INTENSIFIES 1502 01:26:15,020 --> 01:26:16,620 Well, I'm still here. 1503 01:26:16,620 --> 01:26:18,580 And I've not only come away with my life 1504 01:26:18,580 --> 01:26:20,780 and a billion dollars, which will come in handy, 1505 01:26:20,780 --> 01:26:23,140 I've also learnt that South Korea is a master 1506 01:26:23,140 --> 01:26:25,420 at putting a modern twist on practically everything. 1507 01:26:30,220 --> 01:26:31,500 I'm back in Seoul, 1508 01:26:31,500 --> 01:26:35,180 and I've arrived just in time for a special engagement. 1509 01:26:35,180 --> 01:26:37,900 I've been invited to an exclusive concert 1510 01:26:37,900 --> 01:26:41,300 featuring my close personal drumming friend, So Ra Kim. 1511 01:26:42,580 --> 01:26:46,020 It's interesting to see Seoul isn't all glass and chrome. 1512 01:26:46,020 --> 01:26:47,940 This hipsterish-looking place 1513 01:26:47,940 --> 01:26:50,140 must be where all the creatives hang out. 1514 01:26:50,140 --> 01:26:52,060 Oh, this is very exciting indeed. 1515 01:26:52,060 --> 01:26:54,780 We're here on a rooftop, and you can see over there 1516 01:26:54,780 --> 01:26:57,460 at almost corresponding level there's a sort of shop level. 1517 01:26:57,460 --> 01:26:58,580 Same level as us. 1518 01:26:58,580 --> 01:27:00,460 And then look at all these tarpaulins here. 1519 01:27:00,460 --> 01:27:02,660 All sorts of bits and pieces of rubbish over there. 1520 01:27:02,660 --> 01:27:05,740 There's two of the world's biggest Christmas tree baubles there. 1521 01:27:05,740 --> 01:27:07,460 It's very exciting. 1522 01:27:07,460 --> 01:27:09,900 Anyway, the other reason I'm very excited 1523 01:27:09,900 --> 01:27:12,580 is because our concert is about to begin. 1524 01:27:12,580 --> 01:27:16,460 SWIRLING AND LOW-PITCHED DRUMBEAT 1525 01:27:20,140 --> 01:27:21,300 Oh, just listen to that. 1526 01:27:21,300 --> 01:27:22,900 Rain in a box. 1527 01:27:22,900 --> 01:27:26,260 GENTLE, HIGH-PITCHED DRUMBEATS 1528 01:27:26,260 --> 01:27:30,980 HIGH-PITCHED DRUMBEATS INTENSIFY 1529 01:27:30,980 --> 01:27:34,780 LOW-PITCHED, RAPID DRUMBEATS 1530 01:27:41,700 --> 01:27:43,460 LIGHT, RHYTHMIC CLACKING 1531 01:27:43,460 --> 01:27:46,460 LOW-PITCHED CLANGING 1532 01:27:46,460 --> 01:27:47,700 MELLOW CHIMING 1533 01:27:47,700 --> 01:27:50,100 FAST-PACED CLACKING 1534 01:27:50,100 --> 01:27:53,260 LIGHT CLACKING CONTINUES 1535 01:27:53,260 --> 01:27:54,460 TINNY CLANGING 1536 01:27:54,460 --> 01:27:59,140 CYMBALS CRASHING 1537 01:27:59,140 --> 01:28:01,460 TINNY CLANGING AND LOW-PITCHED BEATS 1538 01:28:01,460 --> 01:28:03,940 MUSIC FADES, APPLAUSE 1539 01:28:07,420 --> 01:28:08,820 That was simply incredible. 1540 01:28:08,820 --> 01:28:10,420 It was sort of part folk music. 1541 01:28:10,420 --> 01:28:12,020 There was a little gong 1542 01:28:12,020 --> 01:28:14,500 and her friend doing all kinds of clever things with his gongs. 1543 01:28:15,780 --> 01:28:18,940 Just unbelievable. Paradiddles like you wouldn't believe. 1544 01:28:18,940 --> 01:28:20,820 And barely broken a sweat. 1545 01:28:20,820 --> 01:28:21,860 She's extraordinary. 1546 01:28:24,260 --> 01:28:27,980 South Korea, a place which so effortlessly mixes 1547 01:28:27,980 --> 01:28:29,780 the ancient with the supermodern. 1548 01:28:33,380 --> 01:28:35,700 DOGS BARKING 1549 01:28:35,700 --> 01:28:37,860 Next time on my South Korean adventure, 1550 01:28:37,860 --> 01:28:41,460 I meet a pack of very special dogs. 1551 01:28:41,460 --> 01:28:43,740 We were told we shouldn't be there longer than four minutes 1552 01:28:43,740 --> 01:28:45,220 because if several of them jump out, 1553 01:28:45,220 --> 01:28:47,620 they will literally tear us to pieces. 1554 01:28:47,620 --> 01:28:50,420 I have an eye-opening encounter with a Korean shaman. 1555 01:28:52,820 --> 01:28:56,300 And I try some extremely fresh seafood. 1556 01:28:56,300 --> 01:28:58,820 Is it safe to eat that? Very, very safe. 1557 01:29:31,200 --> 01:29:36,620 SCREECHING 1558 01:29:39,000 --> 01:29:41,000 ALEXANDER SCREECHES 1559 01:29:41,000 --> 01:29:44,100 TYRES SQUEAL 1560 01:29:44,100 --> 01:29:46,860 I'm on the last leg of my odyssey around a country 1561 01:29:46,860 --> 01:29:50,260 that has not so much captured as ambushed our imagination 1562 01:29:50,260 --> 01:29:52,580 in recent years, South Korea. 1563 01:29:53,660 --> 01:29:56,380 A product of ancient and modern catastrophes, 1564 01:29:56,380 --> 01:29:59,860 deeply traditional, and at the cutting-edge of technology. 1565 01:29:59,860 --> 01:30:02,860 South Korea is held in a vice between East and West, 1566 01:30:02,860 --> 01:30:04,660 the past and the future, 1567 01:30:04,660 --> 01:30:07,900 and it fizzes with creativity under that pressure. 1568 01:30:09,340 --> 01:30:12,900 So far on my journey to discover what makes South Korea so dynamic 1569 01:30:12,900 --> 01:30:15,100 and popular with the rest of the world, 1570 01:30:15,100 --> 01:30:18,220 I've been on a deep dive into K-pop... 1571 01:30:18,220 --> 01:30:20,220 THEY SING 1572 01:30:20,220 --> 01:30:22,060 Yeah, that's it. 1573 01:30:22,060 --> 01:30:26,500 Oh, I'm as good as there. My K-pop career is just beginning. 1574 01:30:26,500 --> 01:30:30,180 I've taken part in a real-life Squid Game. 1575 01:30:36,300 --> 01:30:39,420 And I've been buried alive... Just lie down, OK. 1576 01:30:40,860 --> 01:30:43,540 ..but not in an altogether bad way. 1577 01:30:45,220 --> 01:30:49,180 But now I'm in Busan, South Korea's second-biggest city, 1578 01:30:49,180 --> 01:30:51,020 in an underground car park. 1579 01:31:00,220 --> 01:31:03,260 TYRES SCREECHING 1580 01:31:04,980 --> 01:31:07,300 I've now been round this car park once 1581 01:31:07,300 --> 01:31:11,340 and I haven't yet seen the exit sign. 1582 01:31:11,340 --> 01:31:13,580 Ah, well. Maybe we'll find it this time. 1583 01:31:13,580 --> 01:31:15,300 Fingers crossed, 1584 01:31:15,300 --> 01:31:19,060 cos I think this squealing tyres gag has only got so much tread in it. 1585 01:31:19,060 --> 01:31:20,780 I need a soundtrack that goes... 1586 01:31:20,780 --> 01:31:23,340 SINGS FUNKY TUNE 1587 01:31:23,340 --> 01:31:25,100 MIMICS SQUEALING TYRES 1588 01:31:25,100 --> 01:31:27,300 I take it back. 1589 01:31:27,300 --> 01:31:29,740 This is what underground car parks are like in Korea. 1590 01:31:29,740 --> 01:31:34,180 Beautiful, immaculate, polished painted floors. 1591 01:31:35,700 --> 01:31:37,860 Just going to hoon it round here. 1592 01:31:37,860 --> 01:31:40,620 MIMICS SQUEALING TYRES 1593 01:31:42,300 --> 01:31:44,220 Clean as a whistle. 1594 01:31:44,220 --> 01:31:46,620 Who wouldn't want to drive around that car park? 1595 01:31:46,620 --> 01:31:48,300 I didn't want to leave. 1596 01:31:48,300 --> 01:31:51,660 I'm hoping this just opens when I approach it. 1597 01:31:51,660 --> 01:31:54,580 Oh, and it does. Look at that. 1598 01:31:56,460 --> 01:32:00,140 Well, now. I've got the sat nav all programmed here, 1599 01:32:00,140 --> 01:32:02,380 but sat nav has no answers to this. 1600 01:32:02,380 --> 01:32:04,740 Can I go over and that way? I think I can. 1601 01:32:12,140 --> 01:32:16,020 Now, the exciting thing about Busan is it is a coastal port, 1602 01:32:16,020 --> 01:32:20,100 which means there's lots and lots of fish here in Busan, 1603 01:32:20,100 --> 01:32:25,940 and for that reason, I'm going to the Jagalchi fish market. 1604 01:32:25,940 --> 01:32:30,500 If I can get there without upsetting too many people. There we are. 1605 01:32:30,500 --> 01:32:32,540 HORN BEEPS Oh, yes, all right, I know. 1606 01:32:32,540 --> 01:32:34,740 The hilarious thing here is that it's just understood 1607 01:32:34,740 --> 01:32:37,140 that everybody's going to be quite cross and wanting to get... 1608 01:32:37,140 --> 01:32:39,460 They're not cross, just wanting to get somewhere in a hurry 1609 01:32:39,460 --> 01:32:41,660 and if you're in the way, they'll... HE GRUNTS 1610 01:32:41,660 --> 01:32:46,260 There's no pretence at all that anyone's sort of... 1611 01:32:46,260 --> 01:32:48,300 Of any sort of fair play. 1612 01:32:48,300 --> 01:32:50,580 You just get in there, and if there's a gap, you get in. 1613 01:32:50,580 --> 01:32:53,340 If someone's blocking you, you... MIMICS CAR HORN 1614 01:32:53,340 --> 01:32:57,260 And this, I believe, is where we come to the Jagalchi. 1615 01:33:00,060 --> 01:33:04,020 Like a lot of things in South Korea, this market is only 70 years old, 1616 01:33:04,020 --> 01:33:06,180 but feels like it's been here forever. 1617 01:33:06,180 --> 01:33:07,980 It's like Old Billingsgate. 1618 01:33:09,100 --> 01:33:12,820 And it's not just a market, it's a full-on aquarium. 1619 01:33:15,700 --> 01:33:18,140 I'm meeting up with local expert Suyang, 1620 01:33:18,140 --> 01:33:20,980 who knows this place like the back of his hand. 1621 01:33:20,980 --> 01:33:24,900 So, Suyang, tell me, why is this such an important place? 1622 01:33:43,140 --> 01:33:45,340 You come here? Yeah, the large fish market. 1623 01:33:45,340 --> 01:33:47,500 And this comes straight out here in Busan, does it? 1624 01:33:47,500 --> 01:33:48,700 Is this a fishing port? Yes. 1625 01:33:54,460 --> 01:33:58,820 Suyang is very keen for me to try some of these delicacies. 1626 01:33:58,820 --> 01:34:02,340 And, you know, one or two of them even look edible. 1627 01:34:04,180 --> 01:34:06,020 This is the oldest part, is it? 1628 01:34:11,260 --> 01:34:14,860 Fascinatingly, some of this seafood isn't just good for your guts, 1629 01:34:14,860 --> 01:34:17,180 it's culturally important, too. 1630 01:34:17,180 --> 01:34:21,420 Like having a turkey at Christmas, but in this case it's an octopus. 1631 01:34:47,460 --> 01:34:49,180 Right, right. 1632 01:34:54,460 --> 01:34:57,060 OK, do you want to tell me what we've got? 1633 01:35:11,900 --> 01:35:14,540 Oh, this is the sea pineapple? 1634 01:35:14,540 --> 01:35:17,100 Yes, I see. It looks like a heart. 1635 01:35:21,820 --> 01:35:24,220 Basically, things are good for what they look like? Yes. 1636 01:35:24,220 --> 01:35:26,820 Good for your heart, good for your intestines. 1637 01:35:26,820 --> 01:35:28,700 That one's good for your whatnot. 1638 01:35:39,180 --> 01:35:40,460 Yeah, why not. 1639 01:35:40,460 --> 01:35:42,180 SUYANG CHUCKLES Very intelligent. 1640 01:35:58,420 --> 01:35:59,940 OK. That sounds good, yeah. 1641 01:35:59,940 --> 01:36:02,100 You have to try this one. OK, thank you. 1642 01:36:02,100 --> 01:36:04,620 THEY CONVERSE 1643 01:36:12,220 --> 01:36:14,580 He's getting a lot out, isn't he? Yeah! 1644 01:36:14,580 --> 01:36:16,700 How hungry does he think we are? Don't worry. 1645 01:36:19,140 --> 01:36:22,260 Now, brace yourselves, there's no way round this part, I'm afraid. 1646 01:36:22,260 --> 01:36:24,060 This is how it works with seafood, 1647 01:36:24,060 --> 01:36:27,300 and if you're going to eat it, it must be as fresh as possible. 1648 01:36:27,300 --> 01:36:31,220 In this case, very, very, very recently alive. 1649 01:36:32,980 --> 01:36:36,620 Just to remind you, that's actually a marine spoon worm, 1650 01:36:36,620 --> 01:36:38,180 not something else. 1651 01:36:38,180 --> 01:36:39,900 The Korean name is gaebul, 1652 01:36:39,900 --> 01:36:42,660 which does, yes, it does actually mean penis fish, 1653 01:36:42,660 --> 01:36:45,740 but it's also known as the fat innkeeper worm, apparently, 1654 01:36:45,740 --> 01:36:47,940 so maybe we should just go with that? 1655 01:36:50,100 --> 01:36:51,220 Fantastic. 1656 01:36:52,740 --> 01:36:54,540 Oh, wow. 1657 01:36:54,540 --> 01:36:56,380 Look at this. 1658 01:36:56,380 --> 01:36:58,060 Goodness me. 1659 01:36:58,060 --> 01:37:00,620 Oh, let's see. Wow. 1660 01:37:06,260 --> 01:37:08,420 SUYANG CHUCKLES OK. 1661 01:37:08,420 --> 01:37:10,620 Is it... Is it safe to eat that? 1662 01:37:16,740 --> 01:37:18,660 Food that fights back, I mean... 1663 01:37:21,780 --> 01:37:26,900 I love that, the only imperative is that I must use sesame oil. 1664 01:37:26,900 --> 01:37:28,540 Yeah, this is sesame oil. 1665 01:37:28,540 --> 01:37:30,220 OK, I might just try and... 1666 01:37:32,380 --> 01:37:33,740 Oh, God. 1667 01:37:35,180 --> 01:37:38,060 Maybe I'll put that there. I'm going to hide that bit. 1668 01:37:38,060 --> 01:37:40,220 HE CHUCKLES 1669 01:37:40,220 --> 01:37:42,340 It's fighting back, I'm afraid. 1670 01:37:43,580 --> 01:37:45,100 HE LAUGHS 1671 01:37:46,140 --> 01:37:47,700 I mean... 1672 01:38:03,340 --> 01:38:05,380 You're right, the sesame oil's great. Yeah! 1673 01:38:05,380 --> 01:38:07,740 THEY LAUGH That... 1674 01:38:07,740 --> 01:38:09,180 That's peculiar. 1675 01:38:11,380 --> 01:38:14,500 What do I put that in, now? This one. That goes in that one? 1676 01:38:15,660 --> 01:38:18,380 And this is... Sea pineapple? 1677 01:38:20,180 --> 01:38:21,620 OK. Oops. 1678 01:38:25,820 --> 01:38:27,660 It's quite bitter, quite sour. 1679 01:38:27,660 --> 01:38:30,500 It's not moving around. I know. Which is altogether good. 1680 01:38:30,500 --> 01:38:31,900 Yeah, altogether good! 1681 01:38:32,940 --> 01:38:34,300 After this? Will be delicious? 1682 01:38:35,420 --> 01:38:38,700 That's why people eat this, is it? It will make the next thing lovely! 1683 01:38:38,700 --> 01:38:41,900 So we have a course of that before we have... Now you understand! 1684 01:38:41,900 --> 01:38:44,780 The thing I'm not looking forward to is the sea slug, the sea cucumber. 1685 01:38:44,780 --> 01:38:47,180 This sort of is still moving. 1686 01:38:48,660 --> 01:38:51,180 Oh, wow. Oh, it is hard. Yeah. 1687 01:38:51,180 --> 01:38:52,780 Yes, quite hard. 1688 01:38:54,020 --> 01:38:56,620 Yeah, spicy sauce. Yes. 1689 01:38:56,620 --> 01:39:00,020 I mean, that looks like someone's just run over a slug, doesn't it? 1690 01:39:10,140 --> 01:39:11,780 SUYANG CHUCKLES 1691 01:39:16,660 --> 01:39:18,460 SUYANG LAUGHS 1692 01:39:24,060 --> 01:39:27,060 SUYANG LAUGHS 1693 01:39:27,060 --> 01:39:29,540 Coming up... I hope they've got their Fitbits on. 1694 01:39:29,540 --> 01:39:33,340 Their step count at the end of the day is going to be phenomenal. 1695 01:39:33,340 --> 01:39:35,980 I find out what the Koreans use wheat for, 1696 01:39:35,980 --> 01:39:38,380 to turn rice into wine. 1697 01:39:38,380 --> 01:39:41,860 It's not unlike quite a rough, 1698 01:39:41,860 --> 01:39:44,220 I mean that in a good way, white wine. 1699 01:39:44,220 --> 01:39:47,820 And I travel to the intriguing island of Jeju. 1700 01:39:49,380 --> 01:39:51,580 Another lovely aspect to life, 1701 01:39:51,580 --> 01:39:54,700 this beautiful, beautiful seaside. 1702 01:40:06,620 --> 01:40:10,860 I'm in the south of South Korea in the bustling port city of Busan, 1703 01:40:10,860 --> 01:40:13,660 where I've been chewing my way through some of the local sea life. 1704 01:40:19,260 --> 01:40:23,460 As you'll have seen, we get fed incredibly well here in Korea. 1705 01:40:23,460 --> 01:40:25,660 Really good food, and tons of it, 1706 01:40:25,660 --> 01:40:27,980 and everybody seems to eat and eat and eat, 1707 01:40:27,980 --> 01:40:30,740 and yet obesity is not a problem here. 1708 01:40:32,940 --> 01:40:37,140 I wonder if it's because they eat freshly cooked food? 1709 01:40:37,140 --> 01:40:38,940 I wonder if that's what it is? 1710 01:40:38,940 --> 01:40:41,500 Or is it just because they are so industrious 1711 01:40:41,500 --> 01:40:43,700 and they're always working 1712 01:40:43,700 --> 01:40:45,900 that it falls off them? I don't know. 1713 01:40:45,900 --> 01:40:48,940 I'll tell you something else, here it really is safe. 1714 01:40:48,940 --> 01:40:51,300 And this is how safe it is, when people go to a restaurant 1715 01:40:51,300 --> 01:40:54,620 and they want to bags a table, if they've got to go off to the loo or something, 1716 01:40:54,620 --> 01:40:58,580 they'll just put their phone and their wallet there to say, "This table's taken." 1717 01:40:58,580 --> 01:40:59,780 That's incredible, isn't it? 1718 01:41:04,500 --> 01:41:07,020 Now, though, it is time to turn my attention to a subject 1719 01:41:07,020 --> 01:41:09,460 almost as close to my heart as food. 1720 01:41:09,460 --> 01:41:12,780 Well, this is very beautiful. We're about an hour outside Busan. 1721 01:41:12,780 --> 01:41:15,100 Nice thing to be doing early one morning, 1722 01:41:15,100 --> 01:41:18,220 we are coming to visit the oldest 1723 01:41:18,220 --> 01:41:23,020 authentic Korean rice wine distiller there is, I think. 1724 01:41:23,020 --> 01:41:24,660 It's called makgeolli, 1725 01:41:25,820 --> 01:41:28,540 which I'm very much looking forward to sampling. 1726 01:41:28,540 --> 01:41:30,100 I'm guessing it's a little too early 1727 01:41:30,100 --> 01:41:32,580 to be getting stuck into the rice wine, 1728 01:41:32,580 --> 01:41:34,940 but it's never too early to meet the living legend 1729 01:41:34,940 --> 01:41:38,260 that is master brewer Cheong-gil Yoo, 1730 01:41:38,260 --> 01:41:39,620 if you can find him. 1731 01:41:40,820 --> 01:41:43,060 Can you smell a rice wine distillery? 1732 01:41:43,060 --> 01:41:45,260 HE SNIFFS 1733 01:41:45,260 --> 01:41:48,180 No. Not getting anything yet. Not getting any... 1734 01:41:49,940 --> 01:41:52,100 any nose as yet. No. 1735 01:41:55,140 --> 01:41:56,260 No. 1736 01:41:58,460 --> 01:42:00,420 I think this is it. 1737 01:42:07,340 --> 01:42:09,060 Look at the size of those oatcakes. 1738 01:42:09,060 --> 01:42:11,460 Imagine how big the cheese must be. 1739 01:42:14,660 --> 01:42:16,940 Oh, there's the most wonderful smell in here. 1740 01:42:16,940 --> 01:42:19,260 I hope they've got their Fitbits on. 1741 01:42:19,260 --> 01:42:22,940 Their step count at the end of the day is going to be phenomenal. 1742 01:42:24,060 --> 01:42:25,580 I wonder what they're doing? 1743 01:42:25,580 --> 01:42:27,060 Mr Yoo? 1744 01:42:27,060 --> 01:42:29,260 THEY GREET EACH OTHER 1745 01:42:31,780 --> 01:42:33,700 So, what's happening here? 1746 01:42:43,100 --> 01:42:46,780 So what is this? They're taking something from there 1747 01:42:46,780 --> 01:42:49,460 and they're making it into these beautiful sort of cakes. 1748 01:42:49,460 --> 01:42:50,740 What's happening? 1749 01:43:01,300 --> 01:43:05,140 And then these are flattened out into these beautiful pancakes? 1750 01:43:05,140 --> 01:43:07,100 WHISPERED VOICEOVER: That's what he just said. 1751 01:43:15,460 --> 01:43:18,780 And then what happens to these after this? 1752 01:43:34,700 --> 01:43:36,300 Well, I wasn't far off. 1753 01:43:36,300 --> 01:43:37,780 The nuruk are cakes, 1754 01:43:37,780 --> 01:43:40,460 but they're designed to ferment instead of being baked. 1755 01:43:40,460 --> 01:43:43,780 And in here is where, I guess, the brewing is going to happen. 1756 01:43:43,780 --> 01:43:45,020 Whoop. 1757 01:43:45,020 --> 01:43:46,660 I haven't even drunk anything yet. 1758 01:43:48,060 --> 01:43:50,260 It smells of, erm... 1759 01:43:50,260 --> 01:43:53,380 It smells of vinegar. Kind of vinegar and cider. 1760 01:43:53,380 --> 01:43:56,940 Somewhere between the two. Well, cider vinegar, there we go. 1761 01:43:56,940 --> 01:43:58,340 Genius. 1762 01:43:59,660 --> 01:44:03,340 Ooh. Different smell suddenly as we get up here. 1763 01:44:03,340 --> 01:44:06,700 Yeah, we've gone up a couple of shelves. Slightly stronger stuff. 1764 01:44:06,700 --> 01:44:08,500 ALEXANDER SNIFFS, THEN EXHALES 1765 01:44:11,900 --> 01:44:14,420 Wow. So, what is in here? 1766 01:44:25,780 --> 01:44:28,740 Next, Mr Yoo adds rice to his nuruk 1767 01:44:28,740 --> 01:44:31,500 and the whole lot is left to do its own thing. 1768 01:44:52,900 --> 01:44:57,820 So the warmth actually comes from the fermentation? Yeah. 1769 01:44:59,060 --> 01:45:00,900 As every schoolchild knows, 1770 01:45:00,900 --> 01:45:04,900 fermentation produces heat, carbon dioxide and alcohol. 1771 01:45:27,820 --> 01:45:31,300 It's not unlike quite a rough, 1772 01:45:31,300 --> 01:45:33,740 I mean that in a good way, white wine. 1773 01:45:33,740 --> 01:45:38,180 Delicious? Delicious. Thank you. 1774 01:45:42,780 --> 01:45:45,980 That was very exciting. Mr Yoo is a very famous fellow. 1775 01:45:45,980 --> 01:45:49,540 His face appears on every label of every bottle of that stuff. 1776 01:45:49,540 --> 01:45:52,380 That's like meeting Johnnie Walker or something. 1777 01:45:52,380 --> 01:45:55,340 And it turns out, as far as an alcoholic drink goes, 1778 01:45:55,340 --> 01:45:58,140 makgeolli is pretty good for you. 1779 01:45:58,140 --> 01:46:01,300 When it's fresh, it's full of prebiotics and vitamins. 1780 01:46:01,300 --> 01:46:03,620 It's low-carb and it's low-fat. 1781 01:46:03,620 --> 01:46:06,620 It's sort of like a slightly boozy yoghurt. 1782 01:46:06,620 --> 01:46:10,180 I love the sort of living fermentation, 1783 01:46:10,180 --> 01:46:12,420 cos he doesn't, they're not adding anything to that, 1784 01:46:12,420 --> 01:46:15,780 that's just putting the rice together with the nuruk 1785 01:46:15,780 --> 01:46:18,860 and it just, of its own accord, starts bubbling. 1786 01:46:18,860 --> 01:46:20,980 I mean, that in itself is very exciting. 1787 01:46:22,740 --> 01:46:25,460 Well, I've been all round the mainland of Korea now, 1788 01:46:25,460 --> 01:46:27,380 from the throbbing metropolis of Seoul 1789 01:46:27,380 --> 01:46:29,300 to a strange school in Ulsan, 1790 01:46:29,300 --> 01:46:32,980 but it's time to hop 180 miles across the Korea Strait 1791 01:46:32,980 --> 01:46:36,860 to South Korea's biggest island and holiday destination, Jeju. 1792 01:46:47,820 --> 01:46:51,260 Jeju Island is just a bit bigger than Greater London in size, 1793 01:46:51,260 --> 01:46:55,420 but a lot more like Hawaii, because it's warm and volcanic. 1794 01:46:57,060 --> 01:46:58,260 HE SIGHS 1795 01:46:59,580 --> 01:47:02,380 Well, this is a lovely aspect to life in Jeju, 1796 01:47:02,380 --> 01:47:06,020 this beautiful, beautiful seaside. 1797 01:47:06,020 --> 01:47:09,100 And like Hawaii, and Iceland for that matter, 1798 01:47:09,100 --> 01:47:12,180 Jeju is the product of an undersea eruption 1799 01:47:12,180 --> 01:47:15,220 which made an island formed of molten lava. 1800 01:47:15,220 --> 01:47:17,420 That's what these dark rocks are. 1801 01:47:17,420 --> 01:47:19,900 So I'm essentially sitting on a giant pumice stone. 1802 01:47:21,620 --> 01:47:23,940 It's funny seeing the rules written up there. 1803 01:47:23,940 --> 01:47:26,900 I mean, everything explained in some detail. 1804 01:47:26,900 --> 01:47:28,780 I mean, there are rules everywhere, 1805 01:47:28,780 --> 01:47:31,780 the beach at least as the advantage of having written rules. 1806 01:47:31,780 --> 01:47:34,460 On two occasions, I've had the effrontery 1807 01:47:34,460 --> 01:47:36,900 of turning up to breakfast in our hotel 1808 01:47:36,900 --> 01:47:39,300 20 minutes before the end of breakfast, 1809 01:47:39,300 --> 01:47:41,020 when everybody has left, 1810 01:47:41,020 --> 01:47:45,660 and you're told off pretty roundly when you turn up. 1811 01:47:45,660 --> 01:47:50,100 "No, no, no! There are 20 minutes until we close!" 1812 01:47:50,100 --> 01:47:53,060 And I was shown to my table by a man on one occasion 1813 01:47:53,060 --> 01:47:55,020 who just said, "Hurry up!" 1814 01:47:55,020 --> 01:47:56,500 HE CHUCKLES 1815 01:47:56,500 --> 01:47:58,740 Which is not to say that Koreans are rude. 1816 01:47:58,740 --> 01:48:02,060 They're really not. They just like things done the right way. 1817 01:48:02,060 --> 01:48:04,100 So do their cars. 1818 01:48:04,100 --> 01:48:07,020 One of the interesting things about driving a car in Korea 1819 01:48:07,020 --> 01:48:11,020 is that everything is accompanied by a soundtrack. 1820 01:48:11,020 --> 01:48:12,940 So when you turn the engine on at the beginning, 1821 01:48:12,940 --> 01:48:15,380 you get this lovely... SINGS A FANFARE 1822 01:48:15,380 --> 01:48:17,020 ..as the system opens up. 1823 01:48:17,020 --> 01:48:19,740 The same when you get out of the car, as well. 1824 01:48:19,740 --> 01:48:21,940 You turn the engine off... HUMS A FLOURISH 1825 01:48:21,940 --> 01:48:24,460 Then when you open the door, there's an altogether different... 1826 01:48:24,460 --> 01:48:26,500 SINGS A TUNE 1827 01:48:26,500 --> 01:48:30,380 As if, it's almost like you are the star of your own cartoon. 1828 01:48:30,380 --> 01:48:32,740 And then the sat nav has endless sort of... 1829 01:48:32,740 --> 01:48:34,900 MIMICS GUITAR ..little strums of the guitar, 1830 01:48:34,900 --> 01:48:36,500 or "bing-bong," "ding-ding." 1831 01:48:36,500 --> 01:48:40,340 And you're unable to drive 100 yards 1832 01:48:40,340 --> 01:48:42,460 before you've been given a couple of instructions. 1833 01:48:45,740 --> 01:48:50,020 And right now my sat nav is throwing all its whistles and bells 1834 01:48:50,020 --> 01:48:52,220 behind getting me to my next appointment 1835 01:48:52,220 --> 01:48:54,860 in Jeju's vibrant artist community, 1836 01:48:56,140 --> 01:48:58,740 which is based here under the volcano 1837 01:48:58,740 --> 01:49:01,140 in the most idyllic forested enclave. 1838 01:49:02,540 --> 01:49:06,300 Here, I'm due to meet a woman called Soon Ja Yang. 1839 01:49:07,820 --> 01:49:11,500 This is very nice, as we get out of the city and into the country, 1840 01:49:11,500 --> 01:49:13,260 you can feel a more... 1841 01:49:15,420 --> 01:49:19,500 A calmer pace of life. 1842 01:49:19,500 --> 01:49:22,900 Talking of a slower pace of life, I'm now going to visit somebody 1843 01:49:22,900 --> 01:49:27,660 who has become one of the leading lights 1844 01:49:27,660 --> 01:49:32,460 of a very traditional form of Jeju cloth dyeing. 1845 01:49:32,460 --> 01:49:34,060 It's a thing called galot. 1846 01:49:35,260 --> 01:49:39,500 This folk method of dyeing is something rather magical. 1847 01:49:39,500 --> 01:49:42,300 There are no normal dyes or chemicals involved. 1848 01:49:42,300 --> 01:49:46,020 All you need is some unripe fruit and sunshine. 1849 01:49:48,820 --> 01:49:50,300 This is absolutely beautiful. 1850 01:49:50,300 --> 01:49:54,180 This is a little sort of Jeju artists' commune here. 1851 01:49:55,540 --> 01:49:57,300 Oh, look, there we go. 1852 01:49:59,860 --> 01:50:01,380 I think that might be Soon Ja. 1853 01:50:03,700 --> 01:50:09,140 Hi, Soon Ja? Oh! Hello! Hello, welcome! 1854 01:50:09,140 --> 01:50:12,500 How very lovely to see you. 1855 01:50:12,500 --> 01:50:15,260 Nice to meet you. 1856 01:50:15,260 --> 01:50:20,020 I'm glad, I'm happy to see you here. Oh, thank you very much. 1857 01:50:20,020 --> 01:50:21,860 Look at this. 1858 01:50:21,860 --> 01:50:24,780 No question as to what's going on here. 1859 01:50:24,780 --> 01:50:28,300 This is your dyeing factory? Dyeing, yeah. 1860 01:50:28,300 --> 01:50:32,180 Sun gives us colour. Oh, really? Mm-hmm. 1861 01:50:32,180 --> 01:50:35,980 This is without sun. Oh, I see. So no sun, it just stays like that? 1862 01:50:35,980 --> 01:50:39,060 Right. This is sun. So this is all the effect of the sun? 1863 01:50:40,700 --> 01:50:43,300 The dye that produces this earthy colour 1864 01:50:43,300 --> 01:50:47,140 is the tannin in the flesh of the unripe persimmon fruit. 1865 01:50:48,340 --> 01:50:50,140 Ah, there they are. This is frozen. 1866 01:50:50,140 --> 01:50:53,780 Supposed to be this green colour, but they are frozen, right? 1867 01:50:53,780 --> 01:50:56,220 Like this. Like greengages, aren't they? 1868 01:50:56,220 --> 01:50:58,220 And then you pulp them? Yeah. 1869 01:50:58,220 --> 01:51:04,060 We have two steps, crush first and then make juice out of them. 1870 01:51:05,260 --> 01:51:08,380 By the way, don't try eating an unripe persimmon. 1871 01:51:08,380 --> 01:51:10,700 And I know they look so appetising. 1872 01:51:10,700 --> 01:51:12,220 They're pretty acidic, 1873 01:51:12,220 --> 01:51:14,580 which is why these ladies are wearing rubber boots 1874 01:51:14,580 --> 01:51:17,060 as they trample the juice into the cotton. 1875 01:51:17,060 --> 01:51:21,100 I lose three kilo. Really? I gain, when winter comes, 1876 01:51:21,100 --> 01:51:22,780 I gain three... When winter comes. 1877 01:51:22,780 --> 01:51:25,660 And then you get back into shape? Get back, of course. I need energy. 1878 01:51:25,660 --> 01:51:27,420 I have to get back. 1879 01:51:27,420 --> 01:51:31,180 So, it comes out of there exactly the same colour as it goes in, 1880 01:51:31,180 --> 01:51:34,740 so at this stage there's no colour at all from the persimmon? 1881 01:51:34,740 --> 01:51:37,300 No. You see here? Yeah. 1882 01:51:37,300 --> 01:51:40,340 You see, tomorrow will be a little colour. 1883 01:51:40,340 --> 01:51:41,980 Isn't that just extraordinary? 1884 01:51:41,980 --> 01:51:44,140 And the day after tomorrow, more colour. 1885 01:51:45,340 --> 01:51:49,540 The persimmon juice-soaked fabric then ripens in the sun 1886 01:51:49,540 --> 01:51:51,060 as it would in the fruit, 1887 01:51:51,060 --> 01:51:54,700 turning the cloth a rich shade of terracotta. 1888 01:51:54,700 --> 01:51:58,180 This is done. It took me seven days. 1889 01:51:58,180 --> 01:52:00,740 Seven days of beautiful sunshine. Yeah. 1890 01:52:01,980 --> 01:52:03,420 And that's not all. 1891 01:52:03,420 --> 01:52:07,260 Persimmon-dyed fabric resists water and UV radiation. 1892 01:52:07,260 --> 01:52:11,700 It's antifungal and stronger and more stretchy than undyed cotton. 1893 01:52:11,700 --> 01:52:15,020 All without using a single man-made chemical. 1894 01:52:15,020 --> 01:52:16,380 Peace out. 1895 01:52:17,580 --> 01:52:19,460 What a wonderful thing to discover. 1896 01:52:19,460 --> 01:52:21,740 And, just to make things even more surreal, 1897 01:52:21,740 --> 01:52:27,260 one of Soon Ja's helpers worked for some time as a baker in Devon, 1898 01:52:27,260 --> 01:52:31,900 and so I've been sent away with this beautiful proper Devon scone. 1899 01:52:33,220 --> 01:52:35,660 Coming up, I'm off for an early morning hike. 1900 01:52:35,660 --> 01:52:37,020 Oh, well, that was worth it. 1901 01:52:37,020 --> 01:52:41,900 This is a place where you always feel the wind in your face. 1902 01:52:41,900 --> 01:52:46,140 Before booking myself in for a bit of soul cleansing. 1903 01:52:46,140 --> 01:52:48,740 LOUD CHANTING 1904 01:52:48,740 --> 01:52:51,700 And... MUSIC PLAYS 1905 01:52:51,700 --> 01:52:53,660 Tonight, Matthew, 1906 01:52:53,660 --> 01:52:56,260 I'm going to be disinfected from head to toe. 1907 01:52:57,700 --> 01:53:00,380 Because I've got a date with some dangerous dogs. 1908 01:53:00,380 --> 01:53:02,620 We have just been told by their keeper 1909 01:53:02,620 --> 01:53:04,300 that if several of them jump out, 1910 01:53:04,300 --> 01:53:06,140 they will literally tear us to pieces, 1911 01:53:06,140 --> 01:53:08,300 so we are beating a hasty retreat. 1912 01:53:08,300 --> 01:53:09,860 DOGS BARK 1913 01:53:19,540 --> 01:53:21,740 It's dusk on the island of Jeju, 1914 01:53:21,740 --> 01:53:25,340 and I'm about as far away from the pell-mell of modern South Korea 1915 01:53:25,340 --> 01:53:28,580 as I can be, in a place called Jocheon. 1916 01:53:32,340 --> 01:53:35,500 Now, one of the more colourful things that Jeju is famous for 1917 01:53:35,500 --> 01:53:39,940 is the 18,000 or so Jeju Island spirits that live here. 1918 01:53:39,940 --> 01:53:43,420 I'm going to go and visit a shaman who communes with these spirits. 1919 01:53:43,420 --> 01:53:45,820 People come and see the shaman in order to be unburdened 1920 01:53:45,820 --> 01:53:48,100 of their mental and spiritual ills. 1921 01:53:48,100 --> 01:53:51,100 I suppose the shaman therefore being something between a parish priest 1922 01:53:51,100 --> 01:53:53,100 and a family GP. 1923 01:53:53,100 --> 01:53:56,860 I'm curious to see how a consultation might work. 1924 01:53:56,860 --> 01:53:59,860 BELL RINGING 1925 01:53:59,860 --> 01:54:01,820 CHANTING 1926 01:54:01,820 --> 01:54:05,740 I've made an appointment to see a celebrated shaman, or simbang, 1927 01:54:05,740 --> 01:54:07,700 whose name is Lee Yong-ok. 1928 01:54:11,620 --> 01:54:14,700 Some money? Here? Yeah. 1929 01:54:17,180 --> 01:54:18,780 WHISPERS: Very keen to get my money. 1930 01:54:20,060 --> 01:54:23,420 This is how it's always been, and I suppose it's a bit like 1931 01:54:23,420 --> 01:54:26,060 passing the collection plate round at church, 1932 01:54:26,060 --> 01:54:29,100 or paying a psychiatrist, or a con artist. 1933 01:54:30,860 --> 01:54:34,220 In the high-tech, forward-thinking country that is South Korea, 1934 01:54:34,220 --> 01:54:36,460 there is still a thousand-year-old culture 1935 01:54:36,460 --> 01:54:38,220 of people visiting the simbang 1936 01:54:38,220 --> 01:54:40,220 in order to get help from the spirits 1937 01:54:40,220 --> 01:54:42,940 for anything from earache to heartache, 1938 01:54:42,940 --> 01:54:45,060 to maybe blessing a building project. 1939 01:54:47,620 --> 01:54:50,580 Now, I have been having problems with my sleep, 1940 01:54:50,580 --> 01:54:52,860 so I was hoping that, through the simbang, 1941 01:54:52,860 --> 01:54:56,060 the spirits might be able to help me with my insomnia. 1942 01:54:57,460 --> 01:54:59,460 BELL RINGS 1943 01:54:59,460 --> 01:55:01,100 DRUMS AND GONGS CRASH 1944 01:55:02,140 --> 01:55:04,860 Known as soul flight by some, 1945 01:55:04,860 --> 01:55:09,100 my simbang must first intentionally enter a trance-like state 1946 01:55:09,100 --> 01:55:12,020 in order to interact with the spirit world. 1947 01:55:12,020 --> 01:55:14,980 To help her on her way, special music is played 1948 01:55:14,980 --> 01:55:18,780 to mimic the heartbeat of the earth and open her mind. 1949 01:55:23,900 --> 01:55:25,820 SIMBANG CHANTS 1950 01:55:25,820 --> 01:55:29,500 In this traditional ceremony, known as a "gut" in Korean, 1951 01:55:29,500 --> 01:55:33,780 the simbang claims she is fully in contact with the spirit world 1952 01:55:33,780 --> 01:55:38,540 and says that everybody in the room is effectively in another world. 1953 01:55:38,540 --> 01:55:43,940 SIMBANG SINGS 1954 01:55:53,100 --> 01:55:58,660 RHYTHMIC DRUMMING 1955 01:56:00,860 --> 01:56:04,860 Finally, Lee Yong-ok sends the spirits back to their places 1956 01:56:04,860 --> 01:56:10,140 and we return to the everyday world of South Korea in the 21st-century. 1957 01:56:10,140 --> 01:56:13,180 Ah, yes, this'll cure my insomnia. 1958 01:56:13,180 --> 01:56:16,340 GONG CRASHES, BELL RINGS SIMBANG SINGS 1959 01:56:17,660 --> 01:56:21,020 And that's evidently as much as I've paid for, 1960 01:56:21,020 --> 01:56:23,220 as I am graciously dismissed. 1961 01:56:24,860 --> 01:56:26,340 ALEXANDER CHUCKLES 1962 01:56:26,340 --> 01:56:29,340 That was, erm, wonderful. Wonderful. 1963 01:56:31,380 --> 01:56:35,860 Really sore. She just kept bashing me round and prodding me. 1964 01:56:35,860 --> 01:56:37,620 I didn't know what to do. 1965 01:56:38,740 --> 01:56:40,420 Let's see if I sleep any better. 1966 01:56:46,220 --> 01:56:49,780 And I sort of do, but the dreams I've been having after that, 1967 01:56:49,780 --> 01:56:52,100 I think I preferred staring at the ceiling. 1968 01:56:52,100 --> 01:56:53,940 Anyway, I've got a full schedule ahead of me, 1969 01:56:53,940 --> 01:56:57,900 so let's press on with this last leg of my Korean adventure. 1970 01:56:57,900 --> 01:57:02,420 Well, it's early, and we are going for a hike. 1971 01:57:04,660 --> 01:57:07,940 Sounds fun. That's what people love to do here, hiking. 1972 01:57:07,940 --> 01:57:12,260 And the hotel we are staying in, which is right on the beach, 1973 01:57:12,260 --> 01:57:15,220 everyone this morning was in their hiking clothes, 1974 01:57:15,220 --> 01:57:18,300 so I guess we're going to see everybody who we saw at breakfast 1975 01:57:18,300 --> 01:57:20,420 also going for a hike. 1976 01:57:22,020 --> 01:57:26,100 And this is where I'm going this morning, 1977 01:57:26,100 --> 01:57:30,700 a place known as Seongsan Ilchulbong in Korean. 1978 01:57:33,180 --> 01:57:35,620 One of the natural wonders of South Korea, 1979 01:57:35,620 --> 01:57:39,100 Sunrise Peak is best enjoyed as our day star 1980 01:57:39,100 --> 01:57:42,060 heaves its fiery face out of the eastern sea 1981 01:57:42,060 --> 01:57:45,900 and illuminates this awesome monument to tectonic forces 1982 01:57:45,900 --> 01:57:47,820 with its deep pink glow. 1983 01:57:47,820 --> 01:57:49,180 Like this. 1984 01:57:55,260 --> 01:57:58,660 We can just about see it through the dense fog. 1985 01:58:00,580 --> 01:58:02,260 There you go. 1986 01:58:02,260 --> 01:58:06,420 And that is called Sunrise Peak, and it's where people come... 1987 01:58:07,780 --> 01:58:10,340 Unsurprisingly, it looks out to the east, 1988 01:58:10,340 --> 01:58:13,340 so people can see the sun as it rises. 1989 01:58:13,340 --> 01:58:19,180 That, I imagine, is where everybody in their hiking gear 1990 01:58:19,180 --> 01:58:21,300 at the hotel this morning was heading. 1991 01:58:24,260 --> 01:58:28,580 Sunrise Peak is nothing less than a UNESCO World Heritage site, 1992 01:58:28,580 --> 01:58:32,980 and it's a relatively young one, at about 5,000 years old. 1993 01:58:32,980 --> 01:58:35,860 It erupted out of the sea as a volcano 1994 01:58:35,860 --> 01:58:39,740 and is now an incredibly complex mixture of geological features 1995 01:58:39,740 --> 01:58:40,940 and wildlife. 1996 01:58:43,340 --> 01:58:45,380 ALEXANDER SIGHS 1997 01:58:45,380 --> 01:58:49,620 Well, it turns out this trek is just lots of stairs. 1998 01:58:49,620 --> 01:58:52,580 I mean, it's lovely, the birds are singing, it's great. 1999 01:58:52,580 --> 01:58:55,860 I mean, maybe I'll get to the top and there'll be a... 2000 01:58:55,860 --> 01:58:58,580 sort of more natural track. I don't know, we'll see. 2001 01:58:58,580 --> 01:59:01,420 They have these weird, slightly funereal... 2002 01:59:01,420 --> 01:59:03,140 I guess they're lights here. 2003 01:59:03,140 --> 01:59:05,060 "Last rest area." 2004 01:59:05,060 --> 01:59:07,500 Well, I hope it doesn't come to that. 2005 01:59:07,500 --> 01:59:09,140 Nice hat, though. 2006 01:59:09,140 --> 01:59:12,580 And, as I reach the top of nature's Stairmaster, 2007 01:59:12,580 --> 01:59:15,420 you know what? I don't mind it being a bit misty, 2008 01:59:15,420 --> 01:59:21,100 because it is totally and utterly heart-pumpingly magnificent up here. 2009 01:59:28,660 --> 01:59:30,180 Oh, well, that was worth it. 2010 01:59:30,180 --> 01:59:32,020 I know it's hazy and we can't see much, 2011 01:59:32,020 --> 01:59:34,300 but we can see everything we need to see. 2012 01:59:34,300 --> 01:59:36,220 And look at these extraordinary jagged rocks 2013 01:59:36,220 --> 01:59:37,660 around the edge of this crater. 2014 01:59:37,660 --> 01:59:40,860 It's almost like we're standing on the tongue of a whale, 2015 01:59:40,860 --> 01:59:43,460 peering out over its teeth. That way's east. 2016 01:59:44,740 --> 01:59:46,420 That's where the sun rises, 2017 01:59:46,420 --> 01:59:48,220 and when that sun rises every morning, 2018 01:59:48,220 --> 01:59:51,220 for most of the rest of the world it's still the day before. 2019 01:59:51,220 --> 01:59:53,700 By the time we see that sun, 2020 01:59:53,700 --> 01:59:56,140 these guys are already sitting down to their supper. 2021 01:59:56,140 --> 01:59:57,780 That's how far ahead they are, 2022 01:59:57,780 --> 02:00:00,500 and that's why this is such an invigorating country. 2023 02:00:00,500 --> 02:00:04,500 This is a place where you always feel the wind in your face. 2024 02:00:04,500 --> 02:00:05,700 I love it. 2025 02:00:11,820 --> 02:00:14,620 An allegory, perhaps, of South Korea itself. 2026 02:00:14,620 --> 02:00:19,500 This volcanic island, a product of so much destructive energy 2027 02:00:19,500 --> 02:00:22,820 has become beautiful and fertile. 2028 02:00:38,900 --> 02:00:43,580 I suppose, since the beginning of civilisation, 2029 02:00:43,580 --> 02:00:48,060 since the very, very, very beginning of us living communally, 2030 02:00:49,940 --> 02:00:53,340 the elders have always been the authority, 2031 02:00:53,340 --> 02:00:56,140 and the young have just been a slightly irritating 2032 02:00:56,140 --> 02:00:59,180 larval stage of elderdom. 2033 02:00:59,180 --> 02:01:00,900 But with technology, 2034 02:01:00,900 --> 02:01:06,620 and particularly technology that increases in pace all the time, 2035 02:01:06,620 --> 02:01:09,500 it's changing at ever-increasing pace, 2036 02:01:09,500 --> 02:01:11,740 it is an inevitability that... 2037 02:01:13,140 --> 02:01:15,020 ..the young will start to take precedence. 2038 02:01:15,020 --> 02:01:17,220 And it's especially the case here, 2039 02:01:17,220 --> 02:01:22,660 where I think power has actually been graciously given. 2040 02:01:22,660 --> 02:01:25,460 I think people are very happy to let the young, 2041 02:01:25,460 --> 02:01:29,900 you know, people of the Stay-C age, take precedence. 2042 02:01:30,980 --> 02:01:32,900 With my legs still recovering from the climb 2043 02:01:32,900 --> 02:01:35,340 up the Seongsan Ilchulbong staircase, 2044 02:01:35,340 --> 02:01:38,500 I'm making my way westwards back across the island. 2045 02:01:41,100 --> 02:01:46,180 Now, Jeju isn't just a volcanic island with a subtropical climate, 2046 02:01:46,180 --> 02:01:49,460 it's also home to rare breeds of livestock. 2047 02:01:49,460 --> 02:01:51,140 I love a rare breed, 2048 02:01:51,140 --> 02:01:53,900 which is why I'm here, at the snappily-named 2049 02:01:53,900 --> 02:01:59,340 Jeju Special Self-governing Livestock Promotion Agency. 2050 02:02:01,220 --> 02:02:03,460 DRAMATIC MUSIC 2051 02:02:05,660 --> 02:02:08,140 DISCO MUSIC PLAYS 2052 02:02:08,140 --> 02:02:10,100 Tonight, Matthew, 2053 02:02:10,100 --> 02:02:13,340 I'm going to be disinfected from head to toe. 2054 02:02:13,340 --> 02:02:15,380 Which is entirely necessary, 2055 02:02:15,380 --> 02:02:17,700 because this place is securing the future 2056 02:02:17,700 --> 02:02:19,540 of the island's rare breeds. 2057 02:02:20,700 --> 02:02:24,340 But the programme I'm going to go and look at, and this is curious, 2058 02:02:24,340 --> 02:02:28,140 is a programme of breeding the Jeju dog, which is a wild dog 2059 02:02:28,140 --> 02:02:30,900 that's been the scourge of Jeju's farmers for centuries. 2060 02:02:30,900 --> 02:02:32,660 But they discovered in the '80s 2061 02:02:32,660 --> 02:02:34,820 that there were only three of these dogs left. 2062 02:02:34,820 --> 02:02:36,260 Three on the island. 2063 02:02:36,260 --> 02:02:39,060 And so they started this quite ambitious breeding programme. 2064 02:02:39,060 --> 02:02:43,260 And I think there are now 60 or 70 of these dogs here in captivity, 2065 02:02:43,260 --> 02:02:45,060 where they're being bred. 2066 02:02:45,060 --> 02:02:46,940 I've been warned that when I get close to them, 2067 02:02:46,940 --> 02:02:48,820 they're going to smell me and they'll go nuts. 2068 02:02:48,820 --> 02:02:51,140 DOGS BARKING You haven't smelt me. 2069 02:02:53,340 --> 02:02:56,980 Aha. I was told there'd be someone here 2070 02:02:56,980 --> 02:02:59,660 who would beckon me in and show me the compound. 2071 02:02:59,660 --> 02:03:02,980 Apparently, he is the one person that these dogs trust. 2072 02:03:04,340 --> 02:03:06,980 I'm glad he's got all his limbs intact. 2073 02:03:08,620 --> 02:03:12,820 DOGS BARKING 2074 02:03:12,820 --> 02:03:14,220 Oh! 2075 02:03:25,620 --> 02:03:28,180 Oh, they look very nice for wild dogs. 2076 02:03:31,620 --> 02:03:35,940 It's interesting, the smell from them is much more vulpine, 2077 02:03:35,940 --> 02:03:39,580 it's much more wild than the smell you get from... 2078 02:03:39,580 --> 02:03:43,380 You know the doggy smell that we all know and love, a bit? 2079 02:03:44,620 --> 02:03:47,100 This has got a tang to it that is definitely wild. 2080 02:03:49,180 --> 02:03:52,220 These dogs really are dangerous in the wild. 2081 02:03:52,220 --> 02:03:55,540 Hunting as a pack, I'm told they can easily kill a cow, 2082 02:03:55,540 --> 02:03:58,380 so the plan is to breed that wildness out of them. 2083 02:03:58,380 --> 02:04:01,020 We were told we shouldn't be in there for longer than four minutes, 2084 02:04:01,020 --> 02:04:03,460 because the dogs got more and more excited at us being there, 2085 02:04:03,460 --> 02:04:07,900 until one of them actually jumped up onto the top of its gate 2086 02:04:07,900 --> 02:04:10,420 and was about to come out, and, as we had just been told 2087 02:04:10,420 --> 02:04:12,860 by their keeper that if several of them jump out, 2088 02:04:12,860 --> 02:04:15,020 they will literally tear us to pieces, 2089 02:04:15,020 --> 02:04:17,380 so we are beating a hasty retreat. 2090 02:04:18,980 --> 02:04:23,220 But, actually, the ambition is that if they can send the puppies 2091 02:04:23,220 --> 02:04:27,100 from these breeding dogs here off to be trained, 2092 02:04:27,100 --> 02:04:31,180 and then they can take the puppies of those trained animals, 2093 02:04:31,180 --> 02:04:34,780 after several generations they can breed domesticity into them. 2094 02:04:34,780 --> 02:04:36,180 They're sweet dogs. 2095 02:04:36,180 --> 02:04:38,580 I mean, wildness aside. You know what I mean. 2096 02:04:40,820 --> 02:04:43,780 Coming up, for my last meal in South Korea 2097 02:04:43,780 --> 02:04:46,700 I'm dining out on something you might find a bit shocking. 2098 02:04:47,980 --> 02:04:51,620 Erm, you might have noticed the restaurant is empty. 2099 02:04:51,620 --> 02:04:54,700 It is because we had to wait until it was empty before we could come in and film. 2100 02:04:56,300 --> 02:04:58,980 And back to those wild dogs I narrowly escaped, 2101 02:04:58,980 --> 02:05:01,260 I'm about to meet some of their puppies. 2102 02:05:01,260 --> 02:05:03,860 My last and enduring memory of their parents 2103 02:05:03,860 --> 02:05:07,500 was these slavering things climbing up the walls, 2104 02:05:07,500 --> 02:05:08,900 trying to get at us. 2105 02:05:18,660 --> 02:05:21,220 This is my last day in South Korea, 2106 02:05:21,220 --> 02:05:24,820 and I've experienced so many unforgettable things, 2107 02:05:24,820 --> 02:05:28,100 and eaten some pretty unforgettable food, too. 2108 02:05:28,100 --> 02:05:31,740 I've certainly eaten and met some alarmingly fresh seafood 2109 02:05:31,740 --> 02:05:33,980 as I've been travelling around this country, 2110 02:05:33,980 --> 02:05:37,180 but carnivores are also very much catered for. 2111 02:05:37,180 --> 02:05:39,500 And in this intriguing restaurant, 2112 02:05:39,500 --> 02:05:42,620 the kitchen's fridge is stacked with meat. 2113 02:05:42,620 --> 02:05:45,540 And, if you haven't guessed by now, 2114 02:05:45,540 --> 02:05:46,820 it's horse. 2115 02:05:48,620 --> 02:05:50,940 Right, well, the first thing I've been given is this, 2116 02:05:50,940 --> 02:05:53,340 cos they were very concerned, as was I, 2117 02:05:53,340 --> 02:05:57,260 that I'm wearing very pale clothes that the food will splash. 2118 02:05:57,260 --> 02:06:00,740 Erm, you might have noticed the restaurant is empty. 2119 02:06:00,740 --> 02:06:02,940 It is because we had to wait until it was empty 2120 02:06:02,940 --> 02:06:05,500 before we could come in and film, otherwise this place... 2121 02:06:05,500 --> 02:06:09,300 I mean, busloads of people come here and fight for a place here. 2122 02:06:09,300 --> 02:06:13,340 It is one of Jeju's great eateries. 2123 02:06:16,740 --> 02:06:18,500 OK, fine. 2124 02:06:18,500 --> 02:06:21,820 For some reason, the British invest horses with a dignity 2125 02:06:21,820 --> 02:06:23,980 other animals don't enjoy. 2126 02:06:23,980 --> 02:06:26,380 No-one minds eating a cow or a pig, 2127 02:06:26,380 --> 02:06:28,780 but the winner of the 2:30 at Chepstow? 2128 02:06:28,780 --> 02:06:30,900 Well, it's just not cricket. 2129 02:06:32,460 --> 02:06:34,580 Right, well. CLEARS THROAT 2130 02:06:35,700 --> 02:06:37,460 I've never eaten horse before. 2131 02:06:37,460 --> 02:06:39,820 I'm just going to say that, just so you know. 2132 02:06:39,820 --> 02:06:41,220 Never wittingly, anyway. 2133 02:06:41,220 --> 02:06:44,580 And I'm guessing that's probably the case for you, as well. So... 2134 02:06:46,140 --> 02:06:49,380 I don't know, I think it's important that I try this 2135 02:06:49,380 --> 02:06:52,020 and I let you know what it's like, 2136 02:06:52,020 --> 02:06:57,980 so you can have some idea where horsemeat fits in. 2137 02:06:57,980 --> 02:06:59,740 Just to make things more challenging, 2138 02:06:59,740 --> 02:07:04,580 my first experience of it is going to be...raw horsemeat. 2139 02:07:04,580 --> 02:07:07,180 And the first thing I think I should try... 2140 02:07:08,980 --> 02:07:12,260 ..is this, which is the raw horse liver, 2141 02:07:12,260 --> 02:07:16,460 which is fresh everyday, which is... 2142 02:07:17,780 --> 02:07:19,300 ..reassuring, I think. 2143 02:07:19,300 --> 02:07:22,820 So I need to put this in the sesame oil here. 2144 02:07:23,940 --> 02:07:29,700 I'm not sure where I stand on liver full stop, but anyway, here we go. 2145 02:07:37,860 --> 02:07:41,380 It tastes of sesame oil, I'm relieved to say, 2146 02:07:41,380 --> 02:07:44,900 and it has the texture of liver. 2147 02:07:44,900 --> 02:07:48,300 It's quite cold. It's not actually revolting. 2148 02:07:49,540 --> 02:07:53,460 I'm now going to move on to some of these sort of carpaccio. 2149 02:07:53,460 --> 02:07:56,340 It looks, as you can see, very much like beef. 2150 02:08:00,420 --> 02:08:01,900 Hmm. 2151 02:08:05,340 --> 02:08:07,580 I can't honestly say this is unpleasant. 2152 02:08:09,300 --> 02:08:13,740 Unless I find myself thinking of horses. 2153 02:08:13,740 --> 02:08:18,220 This is a tartare, which I'm guessing is a sort of fillet. 2154 02:08:18,220 --> 02:08:21,740 Again, that feels a bit distasteful, doesn't it, 2155 02:08:21,740 --> 02:08:24,500 even using the word "fillet" in relation to a horse, 2156 02:08:24,500 --> 02:08:28,380 but anyway, listen, I think it's important we try these things, 2157 02:08:28,380 --> 02:08:30,060 and that I tell you what it's like. 2158 02:08:37,380 --> 02:08:38,900 Erm... 2159 02:08:38,900 --> 02:08:41,660 If I'm being perfectly honest, that's delicious. 2160 02:08:41,660 --> 02:08:43,420 That's absolutely delicious. 2161 02:08:43,420 --> 02:08:46,700 I happen to love steak tartare, so... 2162 02:08:46,700 --> 02:08:50,260 It's awful, isn't it? But, you know, I think in the interests of... 2163 02:08:50,260 --> 02:08:53,020 I'm going to have a little bit more of that. 2164 02:08:53,020 --> 02:08:54,820 Don't tell anyone. 2165 02:09:02,620 --> 02:09:05,460 Well, with a hearty meal of horse inside me, 2166 02:09:05,460 --> 02:09:08,100 it's time to set off to my last destination, 2167 02:09:08,100 --> 02:09:10,820 where I'm hoping to find out what has become of the puppies 2168 02:09:10,820 --> 02:09:12,940 of those wild dogs I met earlier. 2169 02:09:14,220 --> 02:09:16,420 Well, now, I mentioned that the offspring, 2170 02:09:16,420 --> 02:09:19,100 the puppies of those wild dogs at the programme 2171 02:09:19,100 --> 02:09:22,580 back at the agricultural centre were then taken off and trained, 2172 02:09:22,580 --> 02:09:26,220 and I've now come to where those puppies are being trained. 2173 02:09:26,220 --> 02:09:27,660 I can see them here. 2174 02:09:33,740 --> 02:09:36,860 Oh, you can tell instantly this is a very different story. Look at that. 2175 02:09:42,700 --> 02:09:45,500 My last and enduring memory of their parents 2176 02:09:45,500 --> 02:09:48,940 was these sort of slavering things climbing up the walls 2177 02:09:48,940 --> 02:09:51,340 trying to get at us, and this... 2178 02:09:52,820 --> 02:09:56,980 This tells you a great deal about how their domestication programme is working. 2179 02:09:58,140 --> 02:10:01,380 Jae-shin and Min-ju here are the trainers responsible 2180 02:10:01,380 --> 02:10:04,980 for making the Jeju dog fit into the modern home. 2181 02:10:04,980 --> 02:10:08,740 Hi, Min-ju? Hi. Hi, how are you? I'm Alexander. 2182 02:10:08,740 --> 02:10:10,940 Nice to meet you. Nice to meet you, too. 2183 02:10:10,940 --> 02:10:17,420 This is extraordinary. We saw the parents of these puppies before. 2184 02:10:17,420 --> 02:10:18,860 How old are they? 2185 02:10:18,860 --> 02:10:21,740 JAE-SHIN AND MIN-JU CONVERSE 2186 02:10:21,740 --> 02:10:23,620 Five months. So, they're five months? 2187 02:10:23,620 --> 02:10:26,420 And at what age did they come to you? 2188 02:10:26,420 --> 02:10:28,660 Three months. 2189 02:10:28,660 --> 02:10:32,180 Wow, so two months of training and here they are. 2190 02:10:32,180 --> 02:10:34,460 So, when they came here, when they were three months old, 2191 02:10:35,620 --> 02:10:38,220 could you tell they were wild dogs? 2192 02:11:01,060 --> 02:11:04,260 So if you trained them over several generations, 2193 02:11:04,260 --> 02:11:07,180 would they gradually become domesticated? 2194 02:11:18,620 --> 02:11:21,420 So, what are their names? 2195 02:11:21,420 --> 02:11:23,660 Jude Law. SHE LAUGHS 2196 02:11:23,660 --> 02:11:27,980 Jude Law? Yes, because he looks sexy, that's why he's... 2197 02:11:27,980 --> 02:11:31,180 He's a sexy dog! Excellent. 2198 02:11:31,180 --> 02:11:33,460 I didn't know that was a characteristic of dogs, 2199 02:11:33,460 --> 02:11:35,980 but there we are. Good. And what's the other one called? 2200 02:11:35,980 --> 02:11:38,780 Poseidon. Ah, Poseidon? Uh-huh. 2201 02:11:38,780 --> 02:11:42,140 Jude Law and Poseidon, what a cracking couple of names. 2202 02:11:42,140 --> 02:11:45,300 Which one's Jude Law? Red. Did I need to ask? 2203 02:11:47,780 --> 02:11:49,740 It is genuinely heart-warming, 2204 02:11:49,740 --> 02:11:52,060 not to mention reassuring, to know that the puppies 2205 02:11:52,060 --> 02:11:55,220 of those wild dogs I met earlier at the livestock centre 2206 02:11:55,220 --> 02:11:58,100 are going to be such loyal and gentle companions. 2207 02:11:58,100 --> 02:12:01,020 Still not sure I'll be putting my name down for one, though. 2208 02:12:07,020 --> 02:12:09,060 When I first arrived in South Korea, 2209 02:12:09,060 --> 02:12:12,180 I must admit I hardly knew anything about it. 2210 02:12:12,180 --> 02:12:14,860 But filling in all the missing pieces 2211 02:12:14,860 --> 02:12:17,540 of this huge, mysterious jigsaw 2212 02:12:17,540 --> 02:12:19,860 and drilling down into the detail of this country 2213 02:12:19,860 --> 02:12:21,500 has been a great privilege. 2214 02:12:24,300 --> 02:12:26,260 I've learned two particular things. 2215 02:12:26,260 --> 02:12:29,700 The first, when I got a chance to play with the Korean drummer. 2216 02:12:29,700 --> 02:12:31,820 SHE SINGS A RHYTHM 2217 02:12:32,900 --> 02:12:35,660 Trying to play along with her rhythms was almost impossible, 2218 02:12:35,660 --> 02:12:37,860 because they were so madly sophisticated, 2219 02:12:37,860 --> 02:12:40,140 the sort of compound structure to those rhythms, 2220 02:12:40,140 --> 02:12:41,660 I was always getting it wrong. 2221 02:12:43,540 --> 02:12:46,060 The other thing is Korean cookery. 2222 02:12:46,060 --> 02:12:48,660 So many flavours, so many things competing. 2223 02:12:48,660 --> 02:12:51,900 Do I dare put one of these in, do you think? Yeah. 2224 02:12:51,900 --> 02:12:54,660 It's so mad, it takes you on this extraordinary journey. 2225 02:12:54,660 --> 02:12:57,220 Food that fights back, I mean... 2226 02:12:57,220 --> 02:12:59,020 SUYANG LAUGHS 2227 02:12:59,020 --> 02:13:02,900 And this is the actual heartbeat of Korean culture, 2228 02:13:02,900 --> 02:13:06,780 because Korea has been devastated through its history. 2229 02:13:06,780 --> 02:13:08,460 And it's had to reinvent itself, 2230 02:13:08,460 --> 02:13:11,300 and its done it in this incredibly clever way. 2231 02:13:12,380 --> 02:13:13,780 If you look deeper, 2232 02:13:13,780 --> 02:13:16,340 all those things that seem unsophisticated on the surface 2233 02:13:16,340 --> 02:13:20,420 have enormous resonance and relevance to Korean history. 2234 02:13:20,420 --> 02:13:23,220 I'm leaving South Korea with a vestigial grasp 2235 02:13:23,220 --> 02:13:24,940 of how things work here, 2236 02:13:24,940 --> 02:13:27,300 in a country where the forces of history and culture 2237 02:13:27,300 --> 02:13:29,500 have sought to destroy so much. 2238 02:13:29,500 --> 02:13:30,980 What remains, though, 2239 02:13:30,980 --> 02:13:35,220 is a creative humanity that is truly enchanting.