DEAN CYCON: AMERICA, TORCH BEARER OF DEMOCRACY
IN THE WESTERN WORLD.
AND HOW FITTING THAT THIS NATION RAISED ON
REVOLUTIONARY EXPECTATIONS OF EQUALITY SHOULD TAKE THE
MOST DEMOCRATIC OF ALL BEVERAGES TO HEART.
JUDITH JONES: JOE!
DEAN CYCON: JOE!
THE COMMON MAN'S NAME FOR THE DUTCH 17TH CENTURY TRADERS
NAME FOR MY FAVORITE BREW...
COFFEE!
JUDITH JONES: COFFEE IS AN ETHIOPIAN FRUIT FIRST DRUNK
BY CHRISTIAN ABBOTTS AND MUSLIM SUFIS FROM THE
10TH CENTURY ONWARDS.
AN AUSPICIOUS SIGN IF EVER THERE WAS ONE THAT THIS WAS
GOING TO BE THE DRINK THAT WOULD BREAK ALL BOUNDARIES...
RELIGIOUS, SOCIAL, POLITICAL AND ECONOMIC.
DEAN CYCON: COFFEE IS THE LIFE BLOOD OF FARMERS
THROUGHOUT ASIA, AFRICA AND LATIN AMERICA.
THE DAILY CUP OF ARISTOCRATS, HIPSTERS,
THE WORKING MAN AND WOMAN.
EVERYBODY'S BEEN CAPTIVATED BY ITS AROMATIC CHARMS
AND ITS SLIGHTLY BITTER PLEASURES.
YEAH, JOE'S BECOME A WORLDWIDE PHENOMENON
EMPLOYING TENS OF MILLIONS OF PEOPLE AROUND THE GLOBE
AND RAINING MANNA FROM HEAVEN ON SMALL COFFEE
ROASTERS AND LARGE CORPORATIONS ALIKE.
JUDITH JONES: OH YES, COFFEE IS THE LARGEST TRADING
COMMODITY IN THE WORLD AFTER OIL,
ITS A $40 BILLION INDUSTRY, 380 MILLION CUPS ARE BOUGHT
BY AMERICANS EVERY DAY.
DEAN CYCON: A SYMBOL OF OUR REVOLUTION AGAINST THE
TEA TAXING BRITS, THIS IS THE DRINK THAT DEFINES AMERICA.
I'M DEAN CYCON...
COFFEE ROASTER AND SOCIAL ENTREPRENEUR.
JUDITH JONES: AND I'M JUDITH JONES,
GOURMET TRAVELISTA AND ROVING REPORTER.
AND TOGETHER WE'RE GOING TO TELL YOU THE STORY OF HOW
COFFEE CONQUERED AMERICA.
DEAN CYCON: OR HOW AMERICA CONQUERED COFFEE.
♪[THEME MUSIC PLAYS]♪
♪ ♪
GOOD MORNING AMERICA!
[GROANS]
OKAY, FIRST THE BAD NEWS...
COFFEE WAS NOT BORN HERE.
NOPE, THE STORY OF JOE BEGINS IN A LAND FAR, FAR AWAY
IN THE HIGHLANDS OF KAFFA THAT WE NOW KNOW AS ETHIOPIA.
I'VE BEEN ROASTING COFFEE AND WORKING DIRECTLY IN THE
COFFEE VILLAGES FOR OVER 20 YEARS AND I'VE ALWAYS
HEARD THIS STORY ABOUT KALDI,
THE ETHIOPIAN GOATHERD WHO FIRST DISCOVERED COFFEE.
KALDI'S WATCHING HIS GOATS WHILE THEY MUNCH ON
THE GREEN LEAVES AND RED CHERRIES OF A COFFEE PLANT.
WELL, THE GOATS START TO GET EXCITED,
THEY START TO PRANCE,
THEY START TO SHUCK AND TO JIVE.
KALDI WATCHES THIS, HE GOES HOME AND LATER THAT
NIGHT A CURIOUS KALDI TRIES SOME OF THE BERRIES.
HE SEES A VISION OF THE ANGEL GABRIEL.
HE GETS REALLY EXCITED, SOMETHING THAT PLEASED HIS WIFE,
OR WAS IT THE GOATS?
I DON'T REMEMBER THE STORY.
BUT ANYWAY, KALDI TAKES THE BEANS TO THE LOCAL MONASTERY
TO SEE THE ABBOT.
THE ABBOT TAKES A HANDFUL OF THESE BEANS,
CHEWS ON THEM AND SPITS OUT THE BITTER FRUIT INTO THE FIRE
SHOUTING, "PAH, THE DEVILS FRUIT."
AH, BUT THEN OUT OF THE FIRE COMES THE ALLURING AROMA
OF ROASTED COFFEE.
MUCH TOO IRRESISTIBLE EVEN FOR AN ABBOT.
SO WAS BORN OUR MODERN COFFEE.
IT'S AN APOCRYPHAL TALE WRITTEN IN THE 16TH CENTURY,
BUT ITS ROMANTICISM HAS STUCK AND ONE THING'S FOR SURE...
COFFEE IS STILL GROWN IN ETHIOPIA.
WE'VE HEARD ALL THESE STORIES ABOUT DANCING GOATS
AND DRUNKEN MONKS AND VISIONS OF ANGEL GABRIEL.
BUT WHAT'S THE REAL STORY OF COFFEE,
WHERE DID IT START AND WHO FIRST FOUND IT?
MARK PENDERGRAST: IT WAS THE ETHIOPIANS WE THINK,
AND IT WAS PROBABLY IN THE RANGE OF THE 800 AD'S,
THAT WAS WHEN SOMEONE FIRST WROTE ABOUT COFFEE.
THEY DIDN'T ACTUALLY BREW IT UNTIL CENTURIES LATER,
BUT WE THINK ARABICA COFFEE WAS FIRST RECOGNIZED
AS A SPECIAL TREE SOMETIME BEFORE 1000 AD,
A LONG TIME AGO.
DEAN CYCON: SOMEHOW THAT BERRY BECOMES ULTIMATELY A DRINK.
WHAT HAPPENED THERE, HOW DID THAT HAPPEN?
MARK PENDERGRAST: IT'S A BERRY FROM A TREE...
THE LEAVES HAVE CAFFEINE IN IT,
THE FRUIT HAS CAFFEINE IN IT AND THE SEED ITSELF
HAS CAFFEINE IN IT BUT THE SEED IS REALLY HARD.
IT CERTAINLY WASN'T CONSUMED AS THE COFFEE WE KNOW TODAY,
RIGHT AWAY.
THEY USED THE LEAF AND THEY WOULD DRY IT AND MAKE
A LITTLE TEA OUT OF IT.
THEY WOULD USE THE FRUIT WHICH WAS EASY TO TAKE OFF
AND THEY WOULD DRY IT AND AGAIN BREW IT AS A
KIND OF FRUIT DRINK...
THE FIRST ENERGY DRINK.
THEY WOULD GRIND UP THE GREEN BEAN,
PUT IT WITH ANIMAL FAT AND TAKE IT TRAVELING WITH THEM
AS, SORT OF, AN ENERGY BAR IF YOU WILL.
BUT IT WASN'T UNTIL SOMETIME IN THE 1400'S THAT SOMEBODY
FIGURED OUT TO ROAST THAT GREEN BEAN,
GRIND IT UP, PUT IT IN HOT WATER AND MAKE COFFEE
THEY WAY THAT WE KNOW IT TODAY.
IN ETHIOPIA THEY DEVELOPED A RITUAL OF ROASTING THE BEANS
ON KIND OF A BIG FLAT WOK OVER A BED OF COALS AND THEY
WOULD DO IT WHILE EVERYONE WAS GATHERED AROUND AND
YOU COULD SMELL THE AROMA OF IT.
THEY WOULD THEN GRIND IT IN A MORTAR AND PESTLE AND
THEY WOULD BREW IT WITH A FEW SPICES OFTEN AND
THEY WOULD GIVE ONE CUP TO YOU AND THEN A SECOND AND
THEN A THIRD.
IT WAS ALL VERY TRADITIONAL AND CEREMONIAL.
IT WAS WHAT YOU SOCIALIZED OVER,
AND IT'S QUITE AN ELABORATE AND REMAINS,
QUITE AN ELABORATE CEREMONY.
DEAN CYCON: AMERICAN-PRODUCED COFFEE IS
GROWN ON UNCLE SAM'S BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII ON
THE KONA COAST.
THE COFFEE HERE GROWS IN AN IDEAL CLIMATE AND ENVIRONMENT,
ALONG A 20 MILE CORRIDOR ON THE SLOPES OF MOUNT HUALALAI.
COFFEE GROWS IN A BELT 30 DEGREES NORTH AND SOUTH OF
THE EQUATOR BETWEEN THE TROPIC OF CANCER AND TROPIC
OF CAPRICORN ALL AROUND THE WORLD.
COFFEE REQUIRES ALTITUDE TO SUCCESSFULLY GROW A
HIGH QUALITY BEAN.
IT'S GENERALLY BEST SOMEWHERE BETWEEN
3,000-6,000 FEET ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
COFFEE REQUIRES SHADE TO LOCK IN THE FLAVOR AT THE
END OF THE DAY.
BUT HERE ALL THE RULES ARE BROKEN.
HERE THE HIGHEST ALTITUDE IS ONLY ABOUT 1,500 FEET.
THAT'S NOT VERY HIGH FOR QUALITY COFFEE.
ALSO THERE'S NO SHADE...
HOW DOES GOOD QUALITY COFFEE GROW WITHOUT SHADE?
WELL HERE IN KONA THE HEAT OF THE DAY RISES AND
IT SUCKS IN ALL THE MOISTURE OFF THE VOLCANO
CREATING CLOUDS THAT COVER THE COFFEE PLANTS.
ALSO HERE THE SOIL IS NURTURED BY THE VOLCANO
MAUNA LOA CREATING RICH DEEP MINERAL SOIL...
BEAUTIFUL STUFF.
THESE ARE THE CHARACTERISTICS THAT MAKE
QUALITY KONA COFFEE.
SILVEDIO, CAN YOU SHOW US WHAT'S INSIDE
THIS COFFEE CHERRY?
SILVEDIO: SURE.
DEAN CYCON: OKAY, SO WE'VE GOT THE FRUIT AND INSIDE ARE
THE TWO CHERRIES.
THE FRUIT IS ACTUALLY VERY VERY SWEET ALTHOUGH YOU
REALLY DON'T WANT TO EAT IT.
INSIDE THE CHERRY ARE THE TWO BEANS WHICH ONCE WASHED
AND DRIED WILL BECOME A COFFEE BEAN READY FOR ROASTING.
THERE ARE TWO TYPES OF COFFEE IN THE WORLD...
ARABICA AND ROBUSTA.
ARABICA GROWS ON THE HIGHEST ELEVATIONS AND
THE HIGHEST ELEVATION MEANS THE HIGHEST QUALITY.
ROBUSTA GROWS ON LOWER SLOPES AND IS GENERALLY USED
AS FILLER FOR COMMERCIAL COFFEE,
NOT SPECIALITY COFFEE.
BY THE 15TH CENTURY COFFEE HAD CROSSED THE RED SEA TO
THE PORT OF MOCHA, IN YEMEN, WHERE IT BECAME THE NECTAR
OF ARABIC PEOPLES.
LET ME SHARE SOMETHING WITH YOU...
THE MONUMENTAL EXPANSION OF ISLAMIC PEOPLES FROM ARABIA
SINCE THE 7TH CENTURY GUARANTEED THAT COFFEE WOULD
SPREAD AROUND THE WORLD HUNDREDS OF YEARS BEFORE THE
EUROPEANS EVEN KNEW ABOUT IT.
THE ARABS LOVED IT AND TOOK TO IT IMMEDIATELY.
IT IS SAID THAT EVEN THE PROPHET MUHAMMAD PRAISED THE
STIMULATING POWERS OF COFFEE TO FURTHER AND STRENGTHEN
THE HOURS OF PRAYER.
AND IT WAS THE SUFI MONKS, LIKE THE CHRISTIAN ABBOTS IN
ETHIOPIA BEFORE THEM, WHO FIRST DRANK COFFEE
FOR THAT PURPOSE.
COFFEE HAD BECOME THE PRESERVE OF THE
ARABIAN PENINSULA.
BY THE 15TH CENTURY ARABS WERE ALREADY ROASTING AND
BOILING THE BEAN.
COFFEE HAD BECOME A RECOGNIZABLE DRINK.
[SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE]
THEY CALLED IT THE WINE OF ARABY.
BUT LET'S NOT FORGET, THIS IS AN ADDICTIVE DRINK.
BEFORE YOU COULD SAY ARABICA IT WAS ALREADY BEING SOLD BY
VENDORS IN THE STREETS AND IN THE SOUKS.
AND WHERE PEOPLE MEET AND DRINK A BEVERAGE THAT
ALERTS THE MIND,
THEY TEND TO SPEAK THEIR MIND.
[SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE]
NO, NO, I WASN'T TALKING ABOUT THE COFFEE.
I LOVE THE COFFEE.
COFFEE HOUSES WERE BEGINNING TO BECOME PLACES
WHERE DISCONTENT WAS SPREAD AND RADICAL IDEAS WOULD EMERGE.
IN MECCA COFFEE HOUSES SERVED FLOCKS OF PILGRIMS
AND THE WINE OF ARABY RALLIED PEOPLE AGAINST THE
AGENTS OF AUTHORITY.
[SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE]
MARK PENDERGRAST: BY 1511 THERE WERE COFFEE HOUSES
ALL OVER YEMEN, THERE WAS ONE IN MECCA.
AND THE GOVERNOR OF MECCA WAS NAMED KHAIR BEY AND HE
DIDN'T LIKE THE COFFEE HOUSE BECAUSE PEOPLE WOULD BEGIN
TO THINK MORE REBELLIOUSLY UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF COFFEE.
SO THEY WROTE SATIRICAL VERSES MAKING FUN OF HIM SO
HE CLOSED THE COFFEE HOUSES AND SAID THAT COFFEE WAS BAD
FOR YOU AND YOU SHOULDN'T DRINK IT.
THE PEOPLE HATED THIS.
THEY GOT THE CAIRO SULTAN TO SAY,
"NO, YOU HAVE TO REOPEN THE COFFEE HOUSE."
THAT WAS THE FIRST TIME THAT, AS FAR AS I KNOW,
THAT COFFEE HOUSES WERE CLOSED, BUT NOT THE LAST.
DEAN CYCON: YOU KNOW, IT SEEMS TO ME THAT BY
THIS TIME COFFEE HAD BECOME DEMOCRATIZED AS MORE
PEOPLE BEGAN TO CONSUME IT,
COFFEE BECAME MORE THAN JUST A DRINK,
IT BECAME PART OF THE CULTURE.
IN 1538 THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE, UNDER THE RULE OF IT'S
OMNISCIENT SULTAN SULEIMAN THE MAGNIFICENT,
OCCUPIED YEMEN, IN IT'S BID TO SMASH
PORTUGAL'S COMMERCIAL STRANGLEHOLD IN THE RED SEA.
ONCE COFFEE WAS ESTABLISHED ON THE SHORES OF THE MEDITERRANEAN,
IT BECAME THE PROPERTY OF VENETIAN MERCHANTS WHO WERE
THE MASTERS OF THIS SEA FROM THE 14TH CENTURY.
JUDITH MEETS HISTORIAN JONATHAN MORRIS IN LONDON
TO PICK UP THE STORY.
PROFESSOR MORRIS: THE MERCHANTS FROM TURKEY,
FROM THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE, STARTED TAKING COFFEE WITH
THEM ON THEIR TRIPS OVER TO PARTICULARLY THEIR
FIRST TRADING PORT, VENICE.
SO BY THE 1570'S WE KNOW THAT COFFEE IS BEING BROUGHT
INTO VENICE, REALLY, KIND OF, FOR THE MERCHANTS OWN USE.
WHAT HAPPENS AFTER THAT IS OF COURSE THE EUROPEAN
COUNTRIES ARE LIMITED IN HOW MUCH COFFEE THEY
CAN BRING IN BECAUSE IT'S ONLY BEING GROWN IN YEMEN.
SO THEY START TRYING TO GET HOLD OF COFFEE SEEDS AND
TRYING TO GROW THEM ELSEWHERE.
THE FIRST PEOPLE TO DO THIS ARE THE DUTCH WHO TAKE THEM
OUT TO THE ISLAND OF JAVA IN INDONESIA AND START BRINGING
COFFEE BACK FROM JAVA.
SO BY 1720'S, JAVA IS NOW PRODUCING THE MOST COFFEE IN
THE WORLD IF YOU LIKE.
BUT VERY SHORTLY AFTER THAT IT'S THE FRENCH.
BUT THERE'S A FAMOUS STORY ABOUT A FRENCH NAVAL OFFICER
CALLED DE CLERK, WHO TAKES HIS LITTLE COFFEE SEED AND
LITTLE GLASS CABINET WITH HIM ON A TRIP ON THE OCEAN,
AND HE'S SHARING HIS WATER RATION WITH HIS COFFEE SEED,
AND TAKES IT TO MARTINIQUE AND PLANTS IT IN MARTINIQUE.
BY THE 18TH CENTURY, FRANCE IS THE LEADING
GROWER OF COFFEE...
THE FRENCH COLONIES AND FRANCE IS THE LEADING
CONSUMER OF COFFEE.
THE NEXT STAGE THAT WE SEE IS, KIND OF, THE SPREAD OF
COFFEE HOUSES THROUGHOUT EUROPE.
IN VIENNA THE BLUEBOTTLE COFFEE HOUSE IS SET UP BY A
GUY WITH THE NAME CALITSKI.
AND CALITSKI IS SUPPOSED TO HAVE ACTUALLY MIXED
MILK WITH COFFEE FOR THE FIRST TIME,
SO HE'S RESPONSIBLE FOR A LOT OF WHAT WE SEE AS
EUROPEAN COFFEE CULTURE.
JUDITH JONES: THE POPULARITY OF COFFEE SPREAD THROUGHOUT
EUROPE TO SUCH AN EXTENT THAT DURING THE 17TH AND
18TH CENTURIES, THERE WAS MORE THAN 300 COFFEE HOUSES
IN LONDON.
NOW, THE COFFEE HOUSES WERE NOTHING LIKE THE TRENDY
CAFES WE HAVE TODAY.
NO, A TRUE COFFEE HOUSE WAS CROWDED,
FEISTY, SMOKEY, SMELLY, CELEBRATED AND CONDEMNED.
AND IT WAS IN THE COFFEE HOUSES OF LONDON WHERE THE
CUSTOM OF TIPPING BEGAN.
CUSTOMERS WOULD PUT MONEY INTO A TIN LABELLED
"TO INSURE PROMPT SERVICE."
HENCE, TIPS.
DR. MATTHEW GREEN IS A HISTORIAN AND BROADCASTER
WHO CONDUCTS CRITICALLY ACCLAIMED COFFEE HOUSE TOURS
OF 17TH AND 18TH-CENTURY LONDON.
HE'S AGREED TO GIVE ME AN INSIGHT INTO SOME OF THE
FAMOUS COFFEE HOUSES THAT ONCE DOMINATED THE
HEART OF THE CITY.
MATTHEW GREEN: SO JUDITH, THIS IS THE SPOT WHERE
COFFEE WAS FIRST SOLD TO THE PUBLIC,
AND AS YOU CAN SEE THERE'S A BLUE PLAQUE MARKING THE SITE.
WHAT YOU HAD HERE WASN'T A KIND OF HOUSE,
BUT SOMETHING THAT LOOKED MORE LIKE A POPUP TODAY.
IT WAS A FLIMSY, WOODEN SHACK.
IT WAS OFTEN ON SMOKE AND SOMETIMES ON FIRE,
AND IT WAS ON WHEELS, AND IT WAS OPENED BY THIS MAN HERE,
PASQUA ROSEE.
HE WAS ACTUALLY AN ECCENTRIC GREEK WHO SPENT MOST OF HIS
WORKING LIFE IN TURKEY AS A SERVANT TO BRITISH
LEVANT MERCHANTS.
IT WAS SAID THAT PASQUA BREWED THE FINEST COFFEE IN
WHOLE OF THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE.
BLACK AS HELL, STRONG AS DEATH,
SWEET AS LOVE.
NO WONDER THAN THAT HIS BOSS BECAME ADDICTED TO IT,
AND WHEN HE RETURNED TO LONDON IN 1652 HE BROUGHT
NOT ONLY A SERVANT, BUT THE BITTER MOHAMMED GROOL
AS IT BECAME TO BE KNOWN BACK WITH HIM.
AND SO THIS IS WHERE THE REVOLUTION BEGAN.
AND TO EVERYONE'S SURPRISE, COFFEE BECAME A SMASH HIT.
WITHIN A MATTER OF MONTHS HE WAS SELLING OVER
600 DISHES A DAY.
SO, THIS IS THE SIMPSONS CHOP HOUSE,
BUT IT BEGAN LIFE AS A COFFEE HOUSE BACK IN THE
17TH CENTURY AND INSIDE PLACES LIKE THESE THEY DRANK
A DRINK LIKE THIS...
SO WOULD YOU LIKE TO TRY SOME AUTHENTICALLY BREWED
20TH CENTURY COFFEE?
I'LL POUR SOME OUT.
IT'S GOING TO BE A BIT OF A SHOCK TO THE SYSTEM.
JUDITH JONES: OH THAT LOOKS QUITE THICK.
MATTHEW GREEN: IT'S VERY THICK,
IT'S VERY GRITTY.
JUDITH JONES: IT SMELLS SO STRONG,
EVEN FROM HERE.
OKAY, AH.
MATTHEW GREEN: YOU'RE GRIMACING, IT'S DISGUSTING.
AND THAT'S NOT JUST THE CASE THAT YOUR TASTE BUDS
ARE MORE REFINED, PEOPLE AT THE TIME FOUND IT
DISGUSTING AS WELL.
IT WAS COMMONLY REFERRED TO AS OIL, INK, SOOT, MUD,
AND MOST COMMONLY JUST EXCREMENT.
ONE EARLY SAMPLER SAID IT REMINDED HIM OF A
SYRUP OF SOOT AND ESSENCE OF OLD SHOES.
SO IT WAS A VILE DRINK, BUT WHAT PEOPLE DID LIKE
WAS THE WAY THAT IT SOBERED THEM UP.
BECAUSE UNTIL THE ARRIVAL OF THIS DRINK MOST PEOPLE
WERE EITHER SLIGHTLY OR VERY DRUNK ALL DAY LONG.
NOT BECAUSE WE WERE A NATION OF ALCOHOLICS BUT
SIMPLY BECAUSE PEOPLE COULDN'T DRINK THE RIVER WATER
BECAUSE IT WAS SO POLLUTED.
SO THE ARRIVAL OF COFFEE TRIGGERED A DAWN OF SOBRIETY
THAT LAYS THE FOUNDATIONS FOR SPECTACULAR ECONOMIC
GROWTH IN THE DECADES THAT FOLLOW AS PEOPLE THINK
FOR THE FIRST TIME IN THEIR HISTORY.
DEAN CYCON: BY THE MID 17TH CENTURY THE COFFEE BEAN
HAD TRAVELLED FROM ETHIOPIA TO YEMEN,
ONWARD TO MECCA WHERE THE WORLD'S FIRST
COFFEE HOUSES WERE BUILT.
OCCUPYING OTTOMAN-TURKS THEN ESTABLISHED A COFFEE HOUSE
IN CAIRO AND EXPORTED ROASTED COFFEE BEANS FROM
ALEXANDRIA TO ITS DOMINIONS IN THE MIDDLE EAST.
DAMASCUS BOASTED THE FIRST TURKISH COFFEE HOUSE AND
THE IDEA SOON CAUGHT ON IN THE
IMPERIAL CAPITAL OF ISTANBUL.
MEANWHILE, VENETIAN MERCHANTS WERE TRADING
COFFEE IN WESTERN EUROPE, AND BY THE EARLY 17TH CENTURY
COFFEE WAS BEING IMPORTED AND COFFEE HOUSES WERE
PROLIFERATING THROUGHOUT THE CHRISTIAN WORLD.
THE DUTCH THEN TOOK COFFEE TO NEW YORK IN 1660.
CALL ME A TRAITOR IF YOU WILL,
BUT THERE'S NOTHING ON EARTH LIKE A GOOD CUP OF TEA.
WHAT'S NOT TO LIKE ABOUT TEA?
IT'S COOL AND REFRESHING IN THE HOT WEATHER,
IT'S HYDRATING, IT PREVENTS CANCER AND FIGHTS DIABETES,
IT LOWERS CHOLESTEROL AND IF YOU DRINK A CUP OF BLACK TEA
YOU GET SOME OF THE CAFFEINE KICK THAT YOU WOULD
GET IN A CUP OF COFFEE.
SO IT WON'T SURPRISE YOU TO KNOW THAT IT WAS
THE DRINK OF CHOICE IN COLONIAL AMERICA.
1.2 MILLION PEOPLE DRANK THE STUFF EVERY DAY.
[SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE]
IT WAS THE DRINK OF OUR COLONIAL MASTERS, THE ENGLISH.
THEIR LUXURY EXPORT FROM CHINA THAT THEY SERVED IN
ABUNDANCE THROUGHOUT THE CONTINENT.
ACTUALLY THEY RAMMED IT DOWN OUR THROATS.
AMERICA, A NATION OF TEA DRINKERS,
WHO WOULD'VE BELIEVED IT?
SURELY ONLY A REVOLUTION WOULD GIVE COFFEE IT'S BIG BREAK?
HMMM, NOW THERE'S A THOUGHT.
DEAN CYCON: BOSTON, ONE OF AMERICA'S OLDEST CITIES.
IT WAS THE COFFEE HUB OF 18TH CENTURY COLONIAL AMERICA.
ALTHOUGH IT WAS THE DUTCH WHO FIRST BROUGHT THE BEAN
OVER TO OUR PROMISED LAND 100 YEARS EARLIER...
TO NEW AMSTERDAM, NOW KNOWN AS, NEW YORK.
HOWEVER, AS SOON AS THE ENGLISH PURITANS STARTED TO
SETTLE NEW ENGLAND, COFFEE FOUND ITS ADOPTED HOME.
BUT IT TASTED AWFUL.
SAILED ACROSS THE ATLANTIC AND UP THE HUDSON ON MUSTY
SAILING SHIPS DOWN IN THE HOLD WITH CASKS OF WINE,
TARRED RIGGING AND RATS.
NEW ENGLAND PURITANS WOULD NEVER LIKE THE TASTE
OF COFFEE, BUT LIKE THE BRITISH EXCREMENT IT
STEELED THE MIND AND ENERGIZED THE BODY.
PURITANS WORKING THE SOIL IN THE PROMISED LAND WOULD
ALLOW COFFEE TO ACHIEVE A LEGITIMACY THAT
ALCOHOL NEVER COULD.
IT'S HARD TO BELIEVE BUT BEFORE THERE WAS
A DUNKIN DONUTS, BEFORE THERE WAS A STARBUCKS,
AND 150 YEARS BEFORE THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION;
COLONIAL FOLKS STARTED THEIR DAY IN A TAVERN LIKE THIS,
HOISTING A MUG OF BEER OR ALE.
PURITANS THOUGH THEY WERE, THEY DRANK BEER OR ALE
BECAUSE IT WAS A BETTER BET THAN WATER WHICH WAS UNSAFE.
NARRATOR: THE TAVERNS OF BRITISH AMERICA BECAME
INTEGRAL TO CONSOLIDATING SETTLEMENT LIFE.
THEY WERE PLACES TO DRINK,
EAT AND SLEEP, REST YOUR HORSES,
TO READ THE DAILY NEWS AND SELL YOUR CROPS.
AS MORE AND MORE COLONIST'S VISITED THESE INNS,
COFFEE WAS ADDED TO THE MENU AND THERE WAS
A GOOD REASON WHY.
DEAN CYCON: THE PURITANS DID NOT TAKE KINDLY TO INEBRIATION.
IN FACT, THEY FIND ANYONE WHO WAS EVEN REMOTELY DRUNK,
THEY HIRED INNKEEPERS WHO WERE PARAGONS OF SOBRIETY...
WOMEN MOSTLY, BECAUSE THEY WEREN'T ALLOWED TO DRINK.
AND THEY KEPT THEIR MEN FOLK ON GOOD BEHAVIOR.
GIVE THEM A CUP OF JOE AND SEND THEM OFF TO WORK.
THE BOSTON TEA PARTY.
A CATACLYSMIC EVENT THAT SEALED BRITAIN'S FATE AND
ASSURED COFFEE'S FORTUNES IN AMERICA.
IT TOOK PLACE HERE, ON THE WATERS OF BOSTON HARBOR.
COFFEE ENTERED THE AMERICAN VERNACULAR THE NIGHT A GROUP
OF ANGRY BOSTONIANS DRESSED UP AS MOHAWK INDIANS AND
BOARDED AN EAST INDIA COMPANY CLIPPER.
THEY HURLED A MILLION BUCKS WORTH OF TEA INTO BOSTON HARBOR.
IT WAS DECEMBER 1773 AND AFTER THIS EVENT,
COFFEE BECAME THE DRINK OF PATRIOTS.
SO I'M HERE DOWN IN BOSTON HARBOR WHERE THE
TEA PARTY TOOK PLACE.
I WANT TO TALK TO A COUPLE OF LOCAL FOLKS AND
SEE WHAT THEY THINK ABOUT THE EVENT.
HEY, HOW YOU DOING?
MAN: DOING GOOD.
DEAN CYCON: SO LISTEN, LET ME ASK YOU A QUESTION,
WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THE BOSTON TEA PARTY?
MAN: ALL I KNOW IS THE INDIANS OR SOMETHING ON A BOAT AND
THEY WERE THROWING TEABAGS OVER.
DEAN CYCON: WHERE DID THAT HAPPEN?
MAN: SOMEWHERE OVER THERE.
DEAN CYCON: IT WAS TEABAGS, THOUSANDS OF TEABAGS.
MAN: I DON'T KNOW, THAT'S ALL I KNOW,
I DIDN'T LEARN THAT IN SCHOOL.
DEAN CYCON: WHAT DO YOU KNOW ABOUT THE BOSTON TEA PARTY?
WOMAN: THEY WERE PROTESTING SOMETHING.
DEAN CYCON: OKAY, DO YOU KNOW WHAT THEY WERE PROTESTING?
WOMAN: I THINK SOMETHING TO DO WITH TAXES.
MAN: YEAH, THEY PUT TEA CASKETS INTO THE SEA.
WOMAN: THE WHOLE SHIPLOAD WAS DUMPED INTO THE HARBOR
RATHER THAN BEING TAXED OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT.
MAN: WELL IT WAS PART OF THE REVOLUTION.
DEAN CYCON: DID YOU KNOW THAT AFTER THE BOSTON TEA PARTY
AMERICA STOPPED DRINKING TEA AND TURNED TO COFFEE?
BECAUSE THAT'S WHEN WE SAID TO ENGLAND,
"TAKE YOUR TEA AND STUFF IT,
WE'RE GOING FOR A GOOD CUP OF JOE."
WOMAN: EXACTLY, PROTEST, RIGHT?
DEAN CYCON: YEAH, PROTEST.
WOMAN: SO COFFEE IS INDEPENDENCE?
MAN: OUR COFFEE IS A LOT STRONGER,
THAT'S WHY AMERICANS ARE ALL HYPER.
DEAN CYCON: ARE YOU A TEA DRINKER OR A COFFEE DRINKER?
MAN: NEITHER, I DRINK ONLY WATER.
DEAN CYCON: AMERICA'S RESORT TO REVOLUTIONARY ACTION
AGAINST THE BRITISH CROWN CAME TO A HEAD IN BOSTONS
DOWNTOWN MEETING HOUSE.
IN THESE HALLOWED PILGRIM HALLS,
ANGRY COLONIALS VENTED SPLEENS ON A TEA TAX LEVIED
BY HIS MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT TO PAY FOR A
MOUNTING NATIONAL DEBT,
AN EXPENSIVE 7 YEAR WAR WITH FRANCE AND
SURING UP THE SAGGING FORTUNES OF THE MULTI-NATIONAL
BRITISH, EAST INDIA COMPANY.
SO, WE POOR AMERICAN SUBJECTS TOOK TO VOICING OUR PROTEST IN
HERE WHILE WE WERE BOYCOTTING THE OBJECT OF OUR
IMMENSE DISAFFECTION...
THAT BLOODY DRINK, TEA!
PROFESSOR ALLISON: IN FACT ONE OF THE MEETINGS THE
SHERIFF CAME TO AND THE SHERIFF HAD A PROCLAMATION
FROM THE GOVERNOR,
"THIS IS AN ILLEGAL GATHERING.
SO HE IS ALLOWED TO COME IN AND READ THIS."
THE CROWD IS SILENT AND THEN THE CROWD SIMPLY HISSES.
IMAGINE HAVING 6,000 PEOPLE HISS AT YOU.
WHAT A SOUND THAT WOULD MAKE, THAT RESOUNDED.
THE SHERIFF LEFT, HE DIDN'T WANT TO HAVE ANY PART OF THIS.
AND OF COURSE NOW WE SEE,
"HEY, WE'VE GOTTEN THE SHERIFF OUT OF HERE."
WHERE THE TEA MERCHANTS WANT TO HAVE THE PROVINCIAL
GOVERNMENT TAKE POSSESSION OF THE TEA,
THE TEA IS SITTING ON SHIPS IN BOSTON HARBOR.
WE DON'T WANT TO HAVE ANY PART OF THIS.
LATER ON ACTUALLY IN ANNAPOLIS A FELLOW BRINGS A SHIP IN,
THE PEGGY STEWART.
UNBEKNOWNST TO HIM, HE SAID,
SOMEONE HAD PUT 17 CASES OF TEA AND HE IS AFRAID THEY'RE
GOING TO TEAR DOWN HIS HOUSE BECAUSE THEY'RE SO
OUTRAGED AT THE TEA.
SO HE HAS TO GO ABOARD HIS OWN SHIP AND SET IT ON FIRE
TO SHOW EVERYONE I'M NOT BRINGING IN ANY TEA.
NOT ONLY THAT, DESTROYING 17 CASES OF TEA, PLUS THIS SHIP.
THIS LOSS WOULD BE, TODAY, CLOSE TO A MILLION DOLLARS HE
LOST BY BURNING THIS SHIP BUT HE THOUGHT IT WAS WELL WORTH IT,
OTHERWISE HE THOUGHT HE WOULD LOSE HIS LIFE.
DEAN CYCON: WHAT'S THE MOMENT HERE WHERE THINGS EXPLODE?
PROFESSOR ALLISON: UNDER BRITISH LAW YOU HAVE 20 DAYS
WHERE A SHIP CAN COME INTO PORT AND LEAVE PORT
WITHOUT PAYING TAXES.
AFTER 20 DAYS, TAX HAS TO BE PAID.
EVERYONE KNOWS THAT, DECEMBER 17TH IS THE DATE
BY WHICH THE TAX HAS TO BE PAID.
ON THE NIGHT OF DECEMBER 16TH A CROWD GATHERS HERE,
AND THE EMISSARY GOES TO ASK IF GOVERNOR HUTCHINSON
WILL ALLOW THE SHIPS TO SAIL...
HE WON'T.
THEY COME BACK WITH THIS MESSAGE AND SAMUEL ADAMS
IN THE PULPIT SAYS, "THIS MEETING CAN DO NOTHING
MORE TO SAVE THE COUNTRY."
AND WITH THAT FROM THE BALCONY THERE'S A WAR HOOT,
AND OUT ON THE STREET THERE'S A WAR HOOT.
ABOUT 100, 150 MEN FROM THE GREEN DRAGON TAVERN,
FROM EDEN GILLS PRINTING SHOP AND FROM A CARPENTERS SHOP,
NOW CONVERGE ON THIS SCENE DRESSED AS MOHAWK INDIANS,
THEY HAVE BLANKETS OVER THEIR HEADS,
THEIR FACES ARE SMEARED WITH PAINT SO NO-ONE
WILL RECOGNIZE THEM.
THEY MAKE THEIR WAY DOWN TO THE DOCKS AND THE CROWD
BEGINS FOLLOWING THEM.
DEAN CYCON: THAT SOUNDS PRE-PLANNED, I MEAN,
THESE GUYS WEREN'T HANGING AROUND DRESSED AS INDIANS
FOR NO REASON.
PROFESSOR ALLISON: NO, THEY KNEW THAT THIS WAS COMING.
THIS IS A VERY WELL ORGANIZED THING,
THESE ARE THE SONS OF LIBERTY AND
THEY'RE DOCK WORKERS, LONG SHORE MEN.
GUYS WHO WOULD GATHER IN TAVERNS AND IN COFFEE SHOPS,
AND THEY KNEW ONE ANOTHER.
AND SO THEY WERE RESPONSIBLE FOR MAKING SURE NONE OF THE
TEA IS UNLOADED.
SO THEY'VE BEEN STUDYING THE SHIPS NOW FOR 20 DAYS,
IT'S A VERY WELL ORGANIZED, WELL COORDINATED THING.
JOHN ADAMS SAYS, "I DON'T KNOW WHO ANY OF THESE
MOHAWKS WERE AND I DON'T WANT TO KNOW."
HE CALLS THIS, "A SUBLIME MOMENT,
HE SAYS, "THIS IS AN EPIC IN HISTORY."
DEAN CYCON: YEAH, BUT IT DIDN'T REALLY START HERE.
THIS WAS THE MEETING HOUSE.
THE PLANNING STARTED IN THE COFFEE HOUSES AND THE
TAVERNS AROUND BOSTON,
THAT'S WHERE REVOLUTION GETS FERMENTED.
WHAT WERE SOME OF THE PLACES HERE IN BOSTON?
PROFESSOR ALLISON: WELL, THE BUNCH OF GRAPES TAVERN,
OR THE GREEN DRAGON, THE RED LION,
AND THEN COFFEE HOUSES LIKE THE EXCHANGE COFFEE HOUSE OR
THE LONDON COFFEE HOUSE.
DEAN CYCON: SO THERE WERE LOTS OF PLACES WHERE SMALL
GROUPS OF MEN AND WOMEN WERE MEETING AND TALKING
ABOUT A REVOLUTION?
PROFESSOR ALLISON: EXACTLY, BECAUSE THE GOVERNOR CAN
SUPPRESS A BIG PUBLIC MEETING HAPPENING HERE,
BUT IF 20 GUYS ARE GETTING TODAY IN A TAVERN THEY'RE
JUST HAVING A DRINK.
DEAN CYCON: WHAT ARE THEY DRINKING?
PROFESSOR ALLISON: WELL, THEY MIGHT HAVE BEEN DRINKING
A LOT OF RUM AND THEY WOULD'VE BEEN DRINKING COFFEE.
THIS IS A TRADITION THAT'S GOING TO CONTINUE,
THESE GATHERING PLACES WHERE MEN ARE GETTING TOGETHER
TO TALK ABOUT IDEAS.
DEAN CYCON: OVER COFFEE?
PROFESSOR ALLISON: OVER COFFEE.
DEAN CYCON: THIS IS INTERESTING BECAUSE
THIS PARALLELS WHAT WAS GOING ON ACTUALLY IN THE
ARABIAN PENINSULA AS WELL.
IN THE COFFEE HOUSES OF MECCA PEOPLE GOT TOGETHER
AND THEY WOULD DISCUSS THE ISSUES OF THE DAY AND
GET ALL JAZZED UP AND FERMENT DISSENT.
IN FACT, THE REVOLT AGAINST THE GOVERNOR OF MECCA
STARTED IN A COFFEE HOUSE, JUST LIKE OUR AMERICAN
REVOLUTION SEEMS TO HAVE STARTED IN THE
COFFEE HOUSES OF BOSTON.
PROFESSOR ALLISON: THAT IS AND PEOPLE GET TOGETHER AND
COFFEE CLARIFIES THE WAY YOU'RE THINKING.
HERE OF COURSE YOU'RE LISTENING TO THE MINISTER,
IN MECCA YOU'RE LISTENING TO THE IMAM.
BUT IF YOU'RE IN A COFFEE HOUSE YOU ARE LISTENING TO
EACH OTHER.
DEAN CYCON: OR NOT LISTENING TO EACH OTHER?
RIGHT, OKAY.
THE VERY FIRST COFFEE HOUSE IN AMERICA STARTED RIGHT HERE
IN BOSTON IN 1689 HERE AT THE GREEN DRAGON TAVERN,
RED COATED BRITISH OFFICIALS,
BEWIGGED COLONIAL GOVERNORS,
ALL SORTS OF PEOPLE MET.
PATRIOTS FROM THE BOSTON TEA PARTY SAT AND DEBATED.
THAT'S WHY DANIEL WEBSTER CALLED THE GREEN DRAGON TAVERN
"THE HEADQUARTERS OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION."
NOW WAIT A SECOND, I'M GOING TO GO HAVE A
CUP OF COFFEE AND START A REVOLUTION.
HEY, ANYONE WANT TO TALK ABOUT UPRISINGS AND
INJUSTICE OVER HERE?
BLOODY LIMEYS.
AFTER THE TEA PARTY, DRINKING COFFEE BECAME AN
ACT OF PATRIOTISM AND AS AMERICA ENTERED A 19TH CENTURY,
STEAM POWERED BY INDUSTRIAL PROGRESS,
COFFEE BECAME APPROPRIATELY DEMOCRATIZED,
MEANING IT BECAME READILY AVAILABLE TO THE MASSES.
OVER TO JUDITH.
PROFESSOR MORRIS: WHAT REALLY TURNS AMERICA ONTO
COFFEE IS WHEN THERE ARE CHANGES IN THE WAY THAT COFFEE
ITSELF CAN BE ROASTED AND PACKAGED FROM ABOUT THE 1850'S.
THEN WE START TO SEE FAMOUS COMPANIES LIKE ARBUCKLE'S,
LIKE FOLGERS, LIKE HILLS, WHO START ROASTING COFFEE
AND ALSO GRINDING THE COFFEE AND THEN PACKING IT IN CANS.
NOW BECAUSE THEY CAN SEAL IT INTO CANS THEY CAN
DISTRIBUTE IT ACROSS AMERICA.
AT THE TIME THERE ARE 2 THINGS GOING ON THAT REALLY
MAKE THAT IMPORTANT.
ONE, IS THE CIVIL WAR, BECAUSE THE SOLDIERS REALLY
NEED SOMETHING TO KEEP THEM AWAKE,
BOY THEY HAVE TO BE AWAKE, THEY HAVE TO BE FIGHTING.
SO THEY USE COFFEE.
THIS EARLY PACKAGED COFFEE IS CARRIED WITH THEM
IN THE RATIONS.
AND THE SECOND THING OF COURSE IS ALL THOSE PEOPLE
TREKKING TO THE WEST, THE COWBOYS AND SO FORTH,
ARE USING THIS KIND OF PACKAGED COFFEE
OUT ON THE RANGE.
SO THAT REALLY GROWS THE COFFEE MARKET IF YOU LIKE,
AND THE EXPANSION OF COFFEE.
AND COFFEE REALLY BECOMES AN AMERICAN DRINK.
DEAN CYCON: EXPLORING THE FRONTIERS AND WAGING A WAR
ACROSS BORDERS TOOK THE YOUNG AMERICANS OUT
INTO THE WILDERNESS.
AND WITH SUCH VIGOROUS ACTIVITIES,
COFFEE WAS THE SOLDIER'S, THE COWBOY'S AND THE
FRONTIERSMAN'S BEST FRIEND...
ESPECIALLY WHEN SERVED HOT BESIDE A CAMPFIRE AT THE
END OF A GRUELING DAY.
THE U.S. ARMY HAD SEEN THE GALVANIZING POWERS OF A
CAFFEINE HIT AND ITS CONSUMPTION BECAME AN
ESSENTIAL PART OF A SOLDIER'S DIET EVEN BEFORE THE
CIVIL WAR OF 1861.
30 YEARS EARLIER PRESIDENT ANDREW JACKSON MADE SUGAR
AND COFFEE A DAILY RATION OF EVERY SOLDIER,
GIVING HIM THE STRENGTH TO FIGHT.
OR AS ONE COMMENTATOR SAID, "HAPPINESS AND MORAL COURAGE."
IT WAS CERTAINLY CHEAPER THAN A GILL OF WHISKEY.
THE ADVENT OF THE STEAMSHIP AND THE RAILROAD,
WITH THEIR STEEL WALLS INSTEAD OF SMELLY WOODEN HULLS,
ALLOWED THE COFFEE TO REMAIN FRESH LONGER AND
NOT HAVE THAT MUSTY SMELL.
AN INNOVATION IN PACKAGING, THE PAPER BAG,
ALLOWED COFFEE TO BE TRANSPORTED ACROSS THE
COUNTRY BY COMMISSARY OFFICERS.
EACH SOLDIER WAS GIVEN 1/10TH OF A POUND OF GREEN
BEANS AS A DAILY RATION AND THE METHOD OF DIVIDING
THEM WAS NOTHING SHORT OF A SACRED RITUAL.
EACH SOLDIER WOULD TAKE HIS GREEN COFFEE AND ROAST THEM
AND GRIND THEM AS NEEDED TO KEEP THE COFFEE FRESH.
EACH COMPANY HAD A PORTABLE GRINDER.
AFTER A LONG DAY OF MARCHING AND BATTLES,
THE SOLDIERS WOULD COME AND SLUMP DOWN BY THE
CAMPFIRE AND GET WARM ON A COLD NIGHT.
IT WAS COFFEE BEFORE MEALS,
COFFEE DURING MEALS AND COFFEE AFTER MEALS.
AND IF YOU WERE STANDING GUARD IT WAS
COFFEE AS OFTEN AS POSSIBLE.
[GUNSHOT]
WHO GOES THERE!?
PACKING TECHNIQUES DEVELOPED AROUND THE TIME
OF THE CIVIL WAR WERE REFINED FURTHER IN THE EARLY
20TH CENTURY WITH MECHANIZATION,
UNTIL THE NEXT GREAT COFFEE INNOVATION.
THIS IS GOING TO BE THE PART THAT MAKES YOU TRUE
COFFEE LOVERS SNARL YOUR LIPS IN DESPAIR.
PRESENTER: SAY, WHO GETS TO MAKE THE COFFEE IN YOUR HOUSE?
MORE OFTEN THAN NOT WHEN IT'S COFFEE TIME IN THIS
HOUSEHOLD I GET TO MAKE IT.
OF COURSE THE FACT THAT MY WIFE LET'S ME MAKE THE
COFFEE TELLS YOU HOW AMAZING INSTANT MAXWELL HOUSE MUST BE.
IT'S A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT KIND OF COFFEE.
NOW YOU SEE IT'S NOT A POWDER,
NOT A GRIND EITHER, BUT MILLIONS OF TINY, HOLLOW,
FLAVOR BUDS OF REAL COFFEE.
NOW THESE MIRACLE FLAVOR BUDS BURST INSTANTLY THE MOMENT
YOU POUR IT IN HOT WATER,
FLOODING THE POT WITH THAT GOOD TO THE LAST DROP FLAVOR.
I WANT TO TELL YOU THAT IS REAL COFFEE.
INSTANT MAXWELL HOUSE...
THE AMAZING COFFEE DISCOVERY.
DEAN CYCON: WE'VE COME A LITTLE WAY SINCE THE 1950'S
IN CULTIVATING OUR TASTE BUDS.
BUT GO BACK 100 YEARS AGO AND THIS WAS THE HIT
OF THE NEW CENTURY...
INSTANT COFFEE.
SEVERAL INVENTORS TRIED TO GET IN ON THE
INSTANT COFFEE CRAZE, BUT IT WAS A GUY NAMED
GEORGE CONSTANT LOUIS WASHINGTON WHO
BROUGHT IT TO THE MASSES.
THEREFORE THE NAME, "CUP OF GEORGE."
GEORGE WASHINGTON INVENTED HIS INSTANT COFFEE BREW IN
1910 AND IT PLAYED A BIG PART IN KEEPING AMERICAN SOLDIERS
ALERT TO THE DEMANDS OF BATTLE IN WORLD WAR I.
OUR SOLDIERS THEN TO TOOK INSTANT'S BIGGEST BRAND...
NESCAFE, TO A EUROPE FIGHTING A SECOND WORLD WAR.
AND, FOR THE FIRST TIME, AMERICA'S TASTELESS COFFEE
BECAME A GLOBAL BRAND.
THE WAR ALSO GAVE COFFEE A NEW NAME,
"JOE" AFTER THE NICKNAME FOR THE U.S. FIGHTING MAN, G.I. JOE.
THANKFULLY LUIGI BEZZARA'S GAGGIA ESPRESSO MACHINE,
A 1900'S ELECTRICAL MARVEL OF HISSING STEAM
AND REFINED BREWING,
WAS AT HAND TO SPARE ITALY AND EUROPE FROM
INSTANT COFFEE'S MALEVOLENT SPELL.
JUDITH EXPLORES THE WONDER THAT IS THE GAGGIA.
JUDITH JONES: IT WOULD BE FAIR TO SAY ITALIANS ARE PASSIONATE
ABOUT THEIR COFFEE.
SO MUCH SO YOU WOULD LIKE THAT THEY DISCOVERED IT.
WELL, THEY DIDN'T, BUT THEY HAVE INVENTED A COFFEE
CULTURE UNEQUAL TO ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD.
OVER THE LAST 50 YEARS, ESPRESSO HAS BEEN CONSIDERED
BY MANY TO BE BEST COFFEE TO DRINK.
DEAN CYCON: THAT'S BECAUSE ESPRESSO IS THE BASE OF MANY OF
THE BEST COFFEE DRINKS.
MARCO ARRIGO: THIS IS THE FIAMMA 61.
MADE IN 1961 THIS COFFEE MACHINE REVOLUTIONIZED COFFEE.
BEFORE THIS MACHINE,
ALL THE ALL THE COFFEE MACHINES USED TO BOIL WATER,
PUSH IT THROUGH THE COFFEE AND USED TO
BURN THE COFFEE.
THIS MACHINE WAS A LOT SOFTER,
A LOT COOLER, AND IT USED TO HAVE A WONDERFUL SYSTEM
WHERE IT WOULD MOVE THE WATER AROUND INTERNALLY.
SO IT WOULD NEVER BURN THE COFFEE,
IT WAS REALLY REALLY FORGIVING.
NEVER MADE A BAD COFFEE.
THIS IS AN AUTHENTIC ITALIAN ESPRESSO.
JUDITH JONES: MMM, LOOKS GOOD.
AH, BONISSIMO!
DEAN CYCON: AMERICA DIDN'T YET ENJOY THE BENEFITS
OF THE ESPRESSO MACHINE.
IT HAD INSTANT COFFEE AND DELIVERED IT IN THE
MOST ICONIC OF CULINARY ESTABLISHMENTS.
THE DINER IS TO AMERICANS WHAT THE ITALIAN CAFE
IS TO EUROPEANS.
THOUGH POSSIBLY THE COFFEE IN ITALY TASTES A LITTLE BETTER.
THANK YOU AMBER, SHE KNOWS THE WAY I LIKE IT.
BUT OUR CUP OF JOE IS THE SYMBOL OF A FORMER LUXURY
COMMODITY THAT'S BECOME OUR NATION'S FAVORITE HOT BEVERAGE.
ROUNDING OUT THE COFFEE CRAZE THAT BEGAN WITH THE
BOSTON TEA PARTY, MASS PRODUCTION,
INSTANT COFFEE, THE DINER...
WE CALL THIS THE FIRST WAVE.
THE DINER IS A NEW ENGLAND PHENOMENON.
IT'S DESIGNED EVOLVED THROUGHOUT THE
TRANSFORMATIVE YEARS OF THE 20TH CENTURY UNTIL IT
ACHIEVED ITS ICONIC LOOK.
THE ART DECO EXTERIOR; THE STAINED GLASS WINDOWS IN
THIS STAINLESS STEEL SHELL; THE 1950'S NEON LIGHTS.
YOU CAN STILL FIND DINERS ON STATE HIGHWAYS ACROSS THE
COUNTRY OR IN SMALL TOWNS AND CITIES WHERE THE LOCALS
HAVE KEPT ALIVE THIS INCREDIBLE TRADITION.
THE AMERICAN DINER WAS ESTABLISHED IN RHODE ISLAND
IN 1872 AS A LUNCH WAGON FOR NIGHT SHIFT WORKERS AND
LATE NIGHT GAMBLERS.
YEP, THIS IS WHERE THE CUP OF JOE GOT ENTRENCHED INTO
THE AMERICAN SUBCONSCIOUS.
THE IDEA EVOLVED INTO THE "24 HOUR JOINT,"
SERVING CHEAP HOMEMADE FOOD AND REPLACING THE TAVERN
AS THE LOCAL MEETING PLACE.
THE DINER BECAME THE PUB OF THE NEW WORLD.
MAN: MORNING.
DEAN CYCON: HEY, HOW'S IT GOING?
MAN: ALRIGHT.
DEAN CYCON: WHAT ARE YOU DRINKING?
MAN: WELL, THAT NEW ENGLAND FLAVORED COFFEE STUFF.
WHAT HAVE YOU GOT IN YOUR CUP?
DEAN CYCON: I GOT DINER COFFEE.
MAN: OH, THAT'S WHY IT TASTES LIKE IT DOES,
IT'S DINER COFFEE.
I THINK WE SHOULD HEAD DOWN THE ROAD TO DUNKIN DONUTS
MYSELF AND GO GET US A REAL COFFEE.
DEAN CYCON: YOU'RE A DUNKIN DONUTS GUY?
MAN: YEAH.
DEAN CYCON: WELL, EVERYONE'S GOT THEIR OPINION, RIGHT?
HERE'S TO YA.
MAN: WHEN YOU WANT A GOOD CUP OF JOE,
DUNKIN DONUTS IS THE WAY TO GO.
DEAN CYCON: OKAY.
THE DINER SEEMS TO TAKE US BACK TO SQUARE ONE AGAIN.
UNREMARKABLE COFFEE, WHOLESOME FULFILLING FOOD.
ALL DESIGNED FOR BASIC FUNCTIONALITY AND EXPEDIENCY.
WE AMERICANS LIKE TO WORK HARD,
AND WE'VE GOT TO START OUR DAY AND GET GOING.
THE CHALLENGE OF LATER 20TH CENTURY AMERICA WAS,
NOW THAT YOU'VE GOT A NATION HOOKED ON CUP OF JOE,
HOW DO YOU PERSUADE THEM TO MOVE ON TO SOMETHING TASTIER,
MORE AUTHENTIC.
HONEST JOE, NOT YOUR AVERAGE JOE.
DEAN CYCON: FROM THE EASTERN PORTS TO THE WESTERN SEABOARD,
AMERICANS TOOK TO COFFEE WITH ABANDON.
THE DRINK BECAME THE NATIONS INDISPENSABLE BEST FRIEND AND
DURING THE 20TH CENTURY IT WOULDN'T TAKE LONG FOR
AMERICAN COFFEE CULTURE TO IMPACT THE WORLD.
♪ ♪
WELCOME TO SEATTLE!
HOW'S IT GOING?
LET'S DO IT.
SEATTLE'S GOT THE BLUEST SKY IN THE COUNTRY,
THEN THERE'S THE OTHER 12 MONTHS OF THE YEAR.
BUT HEY, IT IS THE COFFEE CAPITAL OF AMERICA.
ALFRED PEET WAS PROBABLY THE KEY FIGURE IN
THE AMERICAN COFFEE REVOLUTION OF THE 1960'S.
HE WAS ORIGINALLY FROM HOLLAND AND HE GREW UP
IN THE COFFEE BUSINESS THROUGH HIS FAMILY.
LIKE MANY EUROPEAN IMMIGRANTS HE WAS PROBABLY
SHOCKED AT THE QUALITY OF THE BITTER BLACK BREW HE
EXPERIENCED WHEN HE CAME TO AMERICA INSTEAD OF
THE STYLE OF COFFEE HE WAS USED TO AT HOME.
AND HE WAS DETERMINED TO DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT.
WHEN ALFRED PEET OPENED A SMALL COFFEE SHOP
IN BERKELEY, CALIFORNIA,
FEW NOTICED THAT A REVOLUTION WAS BREWING.
HIS COFFEE WAS UNLIKE ANYTHING AMERICANS HAD
EXPERIENCED SO FAR: FRESH ARABICA BEANS,
JUST AS FRESHLY ROASTED, PRODUCING A TASTE THAT WAS
RICH, DARK AND COMPLEX.
LITTLE DID PEET KNOW THAT HE WOULD INSPIRE A NEW WAVE
OF COFFEE ENTREPRENEURS, MOST NOTABLY THREE BUDDIES WHO
WENT ON TO FOUND THE WORLD'S LARGEST COFFEE CORPORATION...
STARBUCKS!
STARBUCK'S HUMBLE BEGINNINGS CAN BE TRACED TO SEATTLE'S
OLD WHARF IN PIKE'S PUBLIC MARKET.
JUDITH TAKES A TOUR AROUND THE BRAND'S FIRST STORE.
JUDITH JONES: HERE IN THIS COFFEE HOUSE THE STORY OF
STARBUCKS COFFEE BEGAN, THOUGH THIS IS NOT JUST THE
STORY OF COFFEE; THIS IS THE STORY OF THE AMERICAN DREAM
IN THE FORM OF THE COFFEE BEAN.
FROM DISHWASHER TO MILLIONAIRE;
FROM IDEA TO AN EMPIRE.
HI THERE, CAN I GET A LATTE PLEASE?
MAN: SURE THING.
WOMAN: I HAVE A GRAND LATTE FOR JUDITH.
JUDITH JONES: THANK YOU.
WOMAN: YEAH, HAVE A GREAT DAY.
JUDITH JONES: SO CAN YOU IMAGINE,
THIS IS WHERE THE STARBUCKS EMPIRE ALL BEGAN.
FROM THIS TINY LITTLE PLACE, JUST LOOK HOW SMALL IT IS.
IT ACTUALLY USED TO BE A FARMERS MARKET BACK IN THE
EARLY 20TH CENTURY WHERE THEY WOULD ROAST AND
SELL THEIR OWN BEANS.
MARK PENDERGRAST: STARBUCKS HAS BECOME SO WELL KNOWN AND
SO BIG THAT MANY PEOPLE LOOK AT IT AS, YOU KNOW,
THIS HUGE CORPORATE BEHEMOTH NOW.
DEAN CYCON: THE STARBUCKS REVOLUTION STARTS IN 1971
IN SEATTLE ON AMERICA'S WEST COAST,
WHEN TWO TEACHERS AND A WRITER,
JERRY BALDWIN, ZEV SIEGEL AND GORDON BOWKER,
RAISE AN $8,000 LOAN TO START SELLING ROASTED COFFEE
BEANS AND EQUIPMENT FROM A TINY STORE ON PIKE'S MARKET
ON THE PUGET SOUND.
STARBUCKS GETS NAMED AFTER A SHIPMATE IN MELVILLE'S
"MOBY DICK" AND A SIREN IS ADOPTED AS A LOGO.
SKIP AHEAD TEN YEARS AND HOWARD SCHULZ BECOMES
STARBUCK'S HEAD OF MARKETING.
HE'S SENT TO ITALY TO SAMPLE THE CAFE CULTURE AND
THE DELICIOUS DRINK MADE ON THE ESPRESSO MACHINE.
SCHULTZ RETURNS TO AMERICA A CONVERTED MAN
BUT HE FAILS TO CONVINCE BOWKER AND BALDWIN THAT THE
ITALIAN MODEL IS THE FUTURE OF THE U.S. COFFEE INDUSTRY.
SO HE LEAVES THE COMPANY IN 1985 AND SETS UP HIS OWN
COFFEE SERVICE APTLY CALLED "IL GIORNALE."
IT PROVES A SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS AND HIS SOARING
PROFITS ALLOW HIM TO BUY UP STARBUCKS FROM ITS FOUNDERS
FOR $3.7 MILLION.
AND SO, THE NEW STARBUCKS IS BORN.
IT BECOMES A PUBLIC COMPANY IN 1992 AND STARTS
TO BREW SUGAR-IZED AND CREAMY COFFEES AND TEAS.
IT GATHERS INSPIRATION FROM THE MOST ARTISAN OF
COFFEE HOUSES THAT ALLOWS THEM TO DELIVER TAILOR-MADE
RECIPES TO ITS CUSTOMERS, SUCH AS THE FRAPUCCINO WHICH IT
TAKES FROM THE BOSTON "COFFEE CONNECTION,"
AND ITS PASTRIES WHICH IT POCKETS FROM THE CANADIAN
"BOULANGE" BAKERIES.
STARBUCKS HAS CONQUERED 65 COUNTRIES BY OPENING OVER
23,000 STORES WORLDWIDE.
AND SO THE SECOND COFFEE REVOLUTION IS BORN.
MARK PENDERGRAST: HOWARD SCHULZ WAS THIS BROOKLYN KID
WHO HAD STREET SMARTS.
HE READ A BOOK CALLED "THE GREAT GOOD PLACE"
BY RAY OLDENBURG ABOUT HOW PEOPLE NEEDED A THIRD PLACE,
NOT JUST HOME, NOT JUST WORK...
BUT A PLACE TO SOCIALIZE.
AND WE WERE MISSING THAT IN THE UNITED STATES;
IN EUROPE THEY HAD THE CAFES.
SO HOWARD SCHULZ REALLY REALIZED THAT WE NEEDED A
PLACE WHERE YOU WEREN'T GOING TO GET DRUNK,
WHERE PEOPLE FROM ALL AGE GROUPS COULD COME FOR A
COMMUNITY EXPERIENCE.
OR WHAT HE CAME TO CALL "THE STARBUCKS EXPERIENCE."
JUDITH JONES: WELCOME TO THE MAGICAL WORLD OF
STARBUCKS IN THE 21ST CENTURY.
ANDREW LINNEMANN: YOU KNOW, I THINK THE GREAT THING ABOUT
COFFEE IS THAT BEFORE SPECIALITY COFFEE CAME ALONG,
PEOPLE DIDN'T REALLY PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT WAS
IN THE CUP.
IT WAS JUST HOT BLACK COFFEE.
AND WHAT STARBUCKS WAS ABLE TO DO WAS INTRODUCE A TASTE
OF PLACE AND ORIGIN AND MORE MEANING BEHIND EACH CUP
OF COFFEE AND INTRODUCE FLAVORS FROM THE ISLAND OF
SUMATRA AND INTRODUCE MORE THAN JUST ROOT COFFEE,
INTRODUCE ESPRESSO TO THE U.S. ON A LARGER SCALE.
AND THEN WE'VE BEEN ABLE TO REALLY EXPAND THAT TO
A RANGE OF COFFEES AND ALSO A RANGE OF EXPERIENCES
IN A PLACE YOU CAN GATHER AND ENJOY YOUR COFFEE
AND GET YOUR COFFEE.
MARK PENDERGRAST: RECENTLY STARBUCKS HAS TRIED TO JOIN,
SORT OF, THE THIRD WAVE, AS ITS CALLED, OF COFFEE.
SO STARBUCKS HAS BEGUN TO TRY TO TAP INTO THAT
WITH STARBUCKS RESERVE.
NOT ONLY ARE WE CONCERNED ABOUT GOOD COFFEE BUT WE
WANT IT TO BE ABSOLUTELY THE BEST COFFEE FROM A
PARTICULAR HILLSIDE, YOU WANT A DIRECT CONTACT WITH
THE PEOPLE THAT ARE GROWING THE COFFEE.
THEY'RE KIND OF JUMPING IN TO THIS WHOLE NOTION OF
THIRD WAVE SPECIALTY COFFEE.
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: I WOULD SAY THE THIRD WAVE
REVOLUTION OF COFFEE REFERS TO A GENERATION OF COFFEE
PRODUCERS, ROASTERS, ARTISANS WHO ARE OBSESSED
OVER QUALITY AT EVERY STAGE OF PRODUCTION,
ELEVATING COFFEE BEYOND A COMMODITY INTO SOMETHING
THAT CAN REALLY BE A FORM OF LIVELIHOOD FOR THE FARMER
AND ALSO CAN DELIVER SOMETHING AT THE END OF THE
DAY WHICH IS WORTH THAT VALUE, YOU KNOW,
TAKING IT TO THAT LEVEL OF SOMETHING LIKE WINE.
JUDITH JONES: SO ANDREW, HAS COFFEE CHANGED AMERICA?
ANDREW LINNEMANN: I THINK WHAT'S CHANGED OVER TIME,
ESPECIALLY IN THE STATES, IS PEOPLE ARE GETTING MORE
INTERESTED IN THE PROVENCE OF THINGS THAT THEY CAN CONSUME.
WE CAN IN A COFFEE SENSE REALLY BRING TO LIFE THE
TASTE OF PLACE, THE FARMER WHO GREW THAT COFFEE AND
CREATE WAYS IN WHICH PEOPLE CAN INTERACT WITH NOT JUST THE
COFFEE ITSELF BUT DIFFERENT BEVERAGE PREPARATIONS.
AND, SO, THAT FOR ME IS WHAT'S BEEN SO REMARKABLE ABOUT IT.
A FRUIT THAT'S COME OFF A TREE HAS BEEN ABLE TO DO
THAT AND IN THE STATES THAT NOBODY THOUGHT POSSIBLE.
DEAN CYCON: IN A SENSE, THE ARTISAN MOVEMENT CAN BE
TRACED BACK TO THE MID-1800'S WHEN AMERICAN
ENTREPRENEURS, SUCH AS HENRY NICHOLAS GREENWELL,
STARTED GROWING THEIR OWN ARABICA BEANS IN HAWAII.
I MEET HENRY'S GREAT GRANDSON THOMAS WHO EXPLAINS
HOW THE KONA COFFEE GROWN ON HIS GRANDFATHERS' LAND
BECAME A WORLD LEADER.
THOMAS GREENWELL: BY 1873 HE SENT COFFEE TO THE WORLD FAIR
IN VIENNA, AUSTRIA AND HE WAS AWARDED A CERTIFICATE
OF EXCELLENCE FROM THE KAISER OF THE WORLD FAIR.
DEAN CYCON: WOW, VIENNA AT THE TIME WAS THE COFFEE
CAPITAL OF THE WORLD AND IT HAD A LOT OF HIGH QUALITY COFFEE,
SO ALL OF A SUDDEN THIS BRITISH ADVENTURER MORE
OR LESS ENTREPRENEUR COMES ALONG WITH A COUPLE OF BAGS
OF COFFEE FROM SOME ISLAND AND HE COPS THE
HONORS AT THE FAIR.
THOMAS GREENWELL: I BELIEVE THAT PUT KONA ON THE MAP.
DEAN CYCON: SO THAT'S THE START BASICALLY OF THE
SPECIALTY COFFEE INDUSTRY IN HAWAII AND THEN IN
WHAT BECOMES AMERICA.
FROM THE SEEDS HERE TO ALL OVER THE WORLD?
THOMAS GREENWELL: YEAH, THAT'S A GOOD WAY TO LOOK AT IT.
DEAN CYCON: TOM CONTINUES THE FAMILY TRADITION AND GROWS
EXQUISITE KONA COFFEE ON HIS GREENWELL FARM THAT'S
IN SUCH DEMAND AROUND THE WORLD.
RIPE RED CHERRIES ARE PICKED BY HAND.
EACH TREE YIELDS ABOUT 2 POUNDS OF GREEN COFFEE BEANS
A YEAR, FROM ROUGHLY 9 POUNDS OF FRUIT.
THE FRUIT IS THROWN INTO A DE-PULPING MACHINE THAT
SEPARATES THE BEANS FROM THE FRUIT.
THE FRUIT IS DE-PULPED BY A SPINNING, BLADED SHAFT.
THE BEANS RELEASED BY THIS PROCESS GET WASHED IN A CHANNEL
OR GUTTER OF RUSHING WATER.
UNRIPE BEANS FLOAT TO THE SURFACE WHILE THE HEAVIER,
MATURE ONES SINK TO THE BOTTOM.
THE MATURE BEANS END UP IN A TANK WHERE THEY SOAK
OVERNIGHT TO REMOVE THE GOOEY OUTER LAYER
CALLED, "HONEY" AND BEGIN THE FERMENTATION PROCESS.
FINALLY, THE COFFEE BEANS ARE DRIED AND RAKED ON
LARGE, FLAT BEDS.
JUDITH JONES: ONCE THE COFFEE BEANS ARE DRIED AND
PROCESSED, ROASTING TRANSFORMS THE GREEN COFFEE
BEANS INTO THE AROMATIC BROWN BEANS THAT WE PURCHASE,
EITHER WHOLE OR ALREADY GROUND.
THIS PROCESS, CALLED PYROLYSIS,
IS AT THE HEART OF WHAT PRODUCES THE AROMA AND
THE FLAVOR OF THE COFFEE WE DRINK.
ROASTING IS GENERALLY PERFORMED IN THE COUNTRY
WHICH HAS IMPORTED THE COFFEE.
SO THE FRESHLY ROASTED BEANS REACH THE CONSUMER
AS QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE.
I'M MEETING UP WITH JAMES HOFFMAN,
THE AUTHOR OF THE WORLD ATLAS OF COFFEE,
AND OWNER OF SQUARE MILE COFFEE ROASTERS,
A MULTI AWARD WINNING COMPANY IN EAST LONDON.
SO JAMES, WHERE DO YOU SOURCE YOUR BEANS FROM?
JAMES HOFFMAN: SO WE SOURCE COFFEE FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD.
THE THING THAT'S IMPORTANT TO US IS THAT IT COMES FROM,
IDEALLY, A SMALL FARM OR A SMALL GROUP OF GROWERS.
BUT ALSO THAT IT'S FRESHLY HARVESTED,
SO DIFFERENT COFFEES HARVESTED AT DIFFERENT TIMES
OF THE YEAR.
SO ALL YEAR ROUND WE'RE LOOKING FOR COFFEE AND
THEY'RE COMING IN HERE.
WHEN THEY ARRIVE THEY ARRIVE AS A RAW SEED BASICALLY.
WE CALL IT GREEN COFFEE BECAUSE IT'S UN-ROASTED
AT THIS POINT.
THEN OUR JOB IS TO TAKE THOSE COFFEES AND THEN TO
ROAST THEM, WHICH IS GOING ON BEHIND YOU HERE.
JUDITH JONES: SO TELL ME ABOUT THE ROASTING PROCESS?
JAMES HOFFMAN: THEY GO IN THESE MACHINES AND THE WAY
THEY WORK IS THAT GENERALLY THERE'S A DRUM INSIDE THEM.
THE JOB OF THE DRUM IS TO TUMBLE THE COFFEE AROUND IN
THE AIR BECAUSE IT'S THE AIR THAT'S GOING TO
DO THE ROASTING.
SO WE HAVE THESE BIG BURNERS IN THE MACHINES THAT
HEAT THE AIR, AND THAT HOT AIR FLOWS THROUGH THE
DRUM AND REALLY DOES MOST THE ROASTING PROCESS.
AND WHAT WE CAN DO IS WE CAN SMELL WE CAN LOOK,
AND WE CAN MEASURE THE TEMPERATURE AND
WE CAN SEE HOW THE COFFEE IS ROASTING,
JUST TO BRING OUT THE BEST FLAVORS OF THAT
PARTICULAR COFFEE.
JUDITH JONES: AND AT WHAT TEMPERATURE ARE THEY
READY TO GO?
JAMES HOFFMAN: WHEN IT COMES OUT,
IT'S MAYBE 200-210 DEGREES CELSIUS,
AND IT COMES OUT INTO A COOLING TRAY.
THEN WE TRY AND COOL THAT DOWN WITHIN 3 OR 4 MINUTES.
WE USE AIR AND GIANT FANS TO SUCK AIR THROUGH
TO COOL IT DOWN.
JUDITH JONES: OKAY.
JAMES HOFFMAN: THEN ONCE IT'S NICE AND COOL WE MIGHT
THEN BLEND THAT COFFEE IF THAT'S WHAT'S GOING TO HAPPEN.
OR WE MAY NOT, WE MAY KEEP THAT SEPARATE AND
SELL IT AS JUST COFFEE FROM JUST ONE PLANT.
IT'LL GO OFF TO BE PACKED, BAGGED UP SO IT'S NICE AND
FRESH, AND THEN ONTO A CONSUMER OR MAYBE A CAFE.
JUDITH JONES: GREAT.
DEAN CYCON: MOST ARTISAN ROASTERIES ARE INDEPENDENT
LOCALLY OWNED BUSINESSES THAT HAVE A GREAT FOLLOWING
IN THEIR LOCAL NEIGHBORHOODS AND THEY WORK HARD TO CREATE
A RELATIONSHIP WITH THE COFFEE FARMERS THEY BUY FROM.
ONE OF THESE IS CAFFE VITA, THEY HAVE 9 CAFES THROUGHOUT
THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST AND THEY HAVE A
PUBLIC BREWING SCHOOL,
THAT'S PBS FOR SHORT, AS WELL AS A COMPREHENSIVE
BARISTA TRAINING PROGRAM.
LET'S CHECK 'EM OUT.
DANIEL!
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: HEY DEAN, HOW'S IT GOING?
DEAN CYCON: GREAT MAN, WHAT A PLACE YOU'VE GOT HERE.
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: WELCOME.
DEAN CYCON: I'M SURFING THE THIRD WAVE NOW.
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: ALRIGHT, WELCOME.
DEAN CYCON: WHOA, THE ROASTING ROOM.
THIS IS THE HEART OF THE OPERATION HUH?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: YEAH, HERE IT IS.
DEAN CYCON: WHAT'S THIS ONE OVER HERE?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: THIS IS A 12 KILO PROBOT.
DEAN CYCON: DID YOU START ON A MACHINE LIKE THIS?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: YEAH, THIS IS ABOUT THE SIZE OF THE
ROASTER WE STARTED AT.
CAFFE VITA STARTED IN 1995,
IT WAS FOUNDED BY MIKE MCCONNELL IN THE
QUEEN ANNE NEIGHBORHOOD OF SEATTLE.
DEAN CYCON: COOL, AND YOU'RE IN 9 DIFFERENT
NEIGHBORHOODS AROUND SEATTLE?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: YES INDEED.
DEAN CYCON: WOW, COOL.
NOW THIS IS A BIG ROASTER.
WHAT IS IT?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: THIS IS A 45 KILO PROBOT.
THIS IS BUILT IN THE 1930'S.
WE BOUGHT THIS ROASTER FROM CAFE TRIESTE
IN SAN FRANCISCO.
SO IT'S QUITE POSSIBLE THAT KEROUAC DRANK COFFEE
ROASTED ON THIS MACHINE.
DEAN CYCON: THAT'S AS ARTISANAL AS
YOU CAN GET, RIGHT?
VERY COOL.
HOW MANY POUNDS A WEEK DO YOU GUYS DO IN THIS PLACE?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: IT VARIES BETWEEN PROBABLY
30,000-40,000 POUNDS A WEEK.
WE HAVE CUSTOMERS ACROSS THE UNITED STATES;
IT GOES TO DIFFERENT CAFES, RESTAURANTS, GROCERY STORES,
THAT SORT OF THING.
DEAN CYCON: BUT YOU ROAST IT ALL HERE?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: WE ACTUALLY HAVE OTHER ROASTING
FACILITIES AS WELL.
WE LIKE TO ROAST OUR COFFEE CLOSE TO WHERE OUR CUSTOMERS
ARE SO WE CAN DELIVER IT FRESH.
IT COMES STRAIGHT OUT OF THE ROASTER AND GETS PACKAGED UP
AND DELIVERED THE NEXT DAY.
DEAN CYCON: WOW, SOUP THE NUTS...
LIKE THE MILKMAN, YOU MAKE IT AND GET IT
OUT TO THEM RIGHT AWAY.
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: EXACTLY.
DEAN CYCON: SO DO YOU SERVE THE SAME COFFEE IN EACH CAFE?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: YEAH, WE HAVE THE SAME OFFERINGS
IN EACH CAFE THAT WE ROTATE ON A DAILY BASIS,
AND THROUGHOUT THE YEAR WE ROTATE OUR COFFEES AS WELL,
AS SEASONAL COFFEES COME IN FROM DIFFERENT ORIGINS.
DEAN CYCON: RIGHT, BECAUSE PART OF THE FOCUS OF THE
ARTISANAL ASPECT OF WHAT YOU DO IS THE SEASONALITY, RIGHT?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: ABSOLUTELY, COFFEE IS A CROP,
IT'S SEASONAL, IT'S NOT ALWAYS GROWING.
DEAN CYCON: AND THE CUSTOMERS YOU HAVE OUT HERE,
THEY'RE LIKE A DIFFERENT CREW IN EACH NEIGHBORHOOD, RIGHT?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: EVERY NEIGHBORHOOD HAS
IT'S OWN PERSONALITY.
DEAN CYCON: PERSONALITY IS THE KEY, ISN'T IT?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: ABSOLUTELY, YEP.
DEAN CYCON: SO YOU AND I BOTH SPEND A LOT OF
TIME IN INDONESIA...
WHAT'S YOUR RELATIONSHIP LIKE WITH FOR EXAMPLE THE
SUMATRAN FARMERS?
I KNOW YOU WORK WITH EKA, WE DO TOO, EARHAMEN COMPANY.
WHAT'S YOUR RELATIONSHIP LIKE?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: WELL, WE VISIT THEM ON A REGULAR BASIS,
WE HAVE DIRECT COMMUNICATION WITH THEM,
WE UNDERSTAND HOW THE CROP IS GOING EVERY YEAR AND
WE ALSO WORK WITH THEM IN ORDER TO WORK IN A PARTICULAR
AREA WITHIN THE COOPERATIVE.
SO WE HAVE A SPECIFIC COFFEE THAT WE CAN OFFER OUR
CUSTOMERS THAT'S TRACEABLE TO THE REGION,
TO THE AREA, TO THE PRODUCERS THAT IS UNIQUE.
DEAN CYCON: WHAT'S THE NAME OF THE REGION?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: ATU LINTAN.
DEAN CYCON: ATU LINTAN.
GREAT, YEAH, I'M PARTIAL TO INDONESIAN COFFEE MYSELF.
IT'S FRANKLY MY FAVORITE COUNTRY IN THE WORLD.
[SPEAKS INDONESIAN].
DON'T YOU THINK?
[DANIEL RESPONDS IN INDONESIAN].
OKAY, SO IT SEEMS LIKE YOU'RE TRYING TO KEEP THE
ARTISANAL EXPERIENCE BY DUPLICATING IT IN EACH OF
YOUR LOCATIONS.
IS THAT YOUR BUSINESS MODEL?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: YEAH, ABSOLUTELY.
I THINK IN ORDER TO BE ARTISANAL AND TO BE FOCUSED ON
QUALITY YOU CAN'T GROW PAST A CERTAIN SIZE WHERE
YOU LOSE TOUCH WITH YOUR PRODUCT.
IT HAS TO BE HANDS ON, ATTENTION TO DETAIL,
DELIVERED FRESH, DELIVERED LOCAL.
DEAN CYCON: AND SO IS THAT WHAT KEEPS YOUR
CUSTOMERS SATISFIED?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: YEAH, I THINK THAT'S DEFINITELY
PART OF IT.
DEAN CYCON: GREAT.
DANIEL INVITES ME TO HIS "CUPPING."
IT'S THE COFFEE EQUIVALENT OF A WINE TASTING.
BREAKING A THIN LAYER OF GROUND COFFEE CRUST
UNLEASHES THE AROMA OF THE MAGIC POTION WITHIN.
WELL, SHALL I HAZARD A GUESS WHERE THESE COFFEES ARE FROM?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: YEAH, GO FOR IT.
DEAN CYCON: OKAY, JUDGING BY THE VERY SMOOTH AND SOFT
AROMA THAT'S COMING OUT I WOULD SAY THESE ARE PERUVIAN
OR SOUTH AMERICAN BEANS.
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: YEP, YOU'RE RIGHT.
MOST OF THE COFFEES ON THE TABLE,
LIKE I SAID, WE'RE CUPPING THEM BLIND;
BUT I HAPPEN TO KNOW WHERE MOST OF THESE ARE FROM.
WE HAVE SOME COLOMBIANS ON THE TABLE,
A PERUVIAN COFFEE ON THE TABLE,
1 COSTA RICAN AND 1 GUATEMALAN.
DEAN CYCON: ISN'T IT AMAZING HOW DIFFERENT PARTS
OF THE WORLD HAVE SUCH DIFFERENT PROFILES?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: OH ABSOLUTELY, EVEN WITHIN
THE SAME COUNTRY OR SAME FARM YOU CAN GET COFFEES
THAT TASTE QUITE DIFFERENT FROM ONE ANOTHER.
DEAN CYCON: RIGHT SIDE OF THE HILL, LEFT SIDE OF THE HILL.
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: EXACTLY.
DEAN CYCON: AND NOW, TIME TO TASTE THE COFFEE.
SO WHAT ARE YOU PICKING UP HERE?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: I'M PICKING UP A NICE BRIGHT NOTE,
SOMETHING LIKE CITRUS OR RIPE PINEAPPLE, SWEET, SYRUPY.
A LITTLE BIT OF MILK CHOCOLATE UNDERNEATH IT.
DEAN CYCON: WOW YOU'RE GOING DEEP.
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: YEAH, THERE'S MANY LAYERS TO IT
I WOULD SAY.
DEAN CYCON: SO AT CAFFE VITA HOW DO YOU KNOW WHEN
SOMEONE'S GOT THE STUFF TO BE A GOOD CUPPER?
DANIEL SHEWMAKER: WELL YOU HAVE TO BE REALLY PASSIONATE
ABOUT COFFEE FOR ONE.
YOU HAVE TO LOVE TO DO IT, AND YOU HAVE TO BE OPEN TO
TRYING TO EXPRESS YOURSELF WITH THE COFFEE TO RELATE IT
TO SOMEBODY ELSE, SO WE CAN ALL COMMUNICATE WHAT WE
LIKE OR DON'T LIKE ABOUT THE COFFEE.
NOT EVERYONE'S GOING TO HAVE THE SAME TASTE.
DEAN CYCON: AND THAT'S JUST THE THING ABOUT COFFEE.
BEING THE DEMOCRATIC DRINK THAT IT'S BECOME MEANS THAT
WE ALL HAVE OUR OWN TAKE ON HOW WE WANT IT SOURCED
AND HOW WE LIKE TO DRINK IT.
AMERICAN IDEALS SERVED UP IN A CAFFEINATED CUP.
WOMAN: I LIKE IT BLACK,
BUT IF I DO PUT ANYTHING IN IT,
I LIKE PUTTING IN A LITTLE BIT OF HONEY AND COCONUT MILK.
MAN: IF I HEAR ABOUT A REALLY AMAZING FARMER THAT
WORKED REALLY HARD TO MAKE A BEAN AND THE BEAN TASTES GOOD
I'M GOING TO LIKE IT A LOT MORE THAN, YOU KNOW,
SOMEONE JUST SAYS, LIKE,
OH, THIS IS GOOD BECAUSE IT'S GOOD.
ANDREW LINNEMANN: A DAY WITHOUT COFFEE IS LIKE A DAY
WITHOUT AIR.
WOMAN: I USUALLY GET JUST BLACK DRIP COFFEE OR LATTES.
MAN: IF IT'S EARLY IN THE MORNING AND I'M HAVING
A ROUGH TIME I PREFER A SHOT IN THE DARK.
DEAN CYCON: HI JUDITH.
JUDITH JONES: HI DEAN, THANK YOU.
DEAN CYCON: SO JUDITH, YOU AND I HAVE BEEN ON THIS
INCREDIBLE VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD OF COFFEE,
AND I'D LIKE TO ASK YOU; WHAT DO YOU THINK HAS BEEN
A BIG IMPACT ON OUR SOCIETIES FROM COFFEE?
JUDITH JONES: WELL DEAN,
I THINK COFFEE HAS BEEN DEMOCRATIZED.
COMING ACROSS THE POND IT'S BECOME A DRINK
FOR THE EVERYMAN.
WHAT ABOUT YOU DEAN, YOU HAVE BEEN A PIONEER
IN THIS COFFEE INDUSTRY FOR 20 YEARS,
DO YOU THINK COFFEE HAS CHANGED AMERICA?
DEAN CYCON: YES I THINK IT HAS CHANGED AMERICA,
AND AMERICA IS ALWAYS ABOUT CHANGE AND REINVENTION.
IT'S REALLY IMPORTANT RIGHT NOW BECAUSE WE'RE GOING
THROUGH YET ANOTHER MOTION OF CHANGE AND THAT IS THAT
THE ARTISAN MOVEMENT HELPS US SEE COFFEE NOT SO MUCH AS
A MASS MARKET COMMODITY THAN AS A FOOD.
SO I THINK THERE'S A LOT THAT'S BEEN DONE,
BUT OUR COFFEE REVOLUTION IS NOT FINISHED YET.