1 00:00:10,440 --> 00:00:14,440 In the far reaches of Northwestern India and Pakistan. 2 00:00:14,480 --> 00:00:18,360 On the high plateaus surrounded by mountains and rivers. 3 00:00:20,120 --> 00:00:23,140 A rich tapestry of community and culture 4 00:00:23,180 --> 00:00:25,360 have co-existed for centuries. 5 00:00:27,400 --> 00:00:30,340 Once one country, they are now neighbours, 6 00:00:30,380 --> 00:00:32,440 separated by a border. 7 00:00:36,460 --> 00:00:38,180 I'm Levison Wood 8 00:00:38,440 --> 00:00:40,400 and this is Ash Bhardwaj. 9 00:00:40,440 --> 00:00:43,340 We're explorers and life-long friends, 10 00:00:43,380 --> 00:00:46,160 who have travelled to the far corners of the globe, 11 00:00:46,200 --> 00:00:48,300 from Sudan to the Himalayas. 12 00:00:48,340 --> 00:00:51,480 We are on a 2,500-kilometre adventure. 13 00:00:52,020 --> 00:00:53,120 Starting our journey 14 00:00:53,160 --> 00:00:56,100 from the border villages in Northwestern Ladakh. 15 00:00:56,140 --> 00:00:57,140 Oh, yeah. 16 00:00:57,480 --> 00:01:00,480 We'll use the Line of Control as our roadmap, 17 00:01:01,020 --> 00:01:03,160 heading south through one of the coldest 18 00:01:03,200 --> 00:01:05,020 inhabited places on Earth. 19 00:01:05,060 --> 00:01:07,240 It's absolutely freezing up here. 20 00:01:07,280 --> 00:01:10,380 Travelling through the stunning valleys of Kashmir. 21 00:01:10,420 --> 00:01:13,440 It's almost like the Shangri-La of India. 22 00:01:14,140 --> 00:01:16,140 And then into Punjab. 23 00:01:16,180 --> 00:01:18,280 (ALL) "Sat Sri Akaal" 24 00:01:18,320 --> 00:01:21,200 Before crossing into Pakistan at Wagah. 25 00:01:22,100 --> 00:01:23,080 Ready? 26 00:01:25,020 --> 00:01:26,200 I can't hear anything. 27 00:01:27,260 --> 00:01:28,400 Welcome to Pakistan. 28 00:01:30,360 --> 00:01:34,160 Our journey will end in the village of Fraono, 29 00:01:34,200 --> 00:01:36,080 on the other side of the border. 30 00:01:36,320 --> 00:01:40,060 We'll bear witness to how the border has divided lives, 31 00:01:40,100 --> 00:01:42,320 but where hope of a reunion still lives. 32 00:01:43,220 --> 00:01:45,260 We'll navigate dangerous terrain. 33 00:01:46,060 --> 00:01:48,260 Keep going! Keep going! Keep going! 34 00:01:49,300 --> 00:01:52,460 Cross into uncharted territory, and enter frontier towns. 35 00:01:53,000 --> 00:01:54,360 A lot of military movements up there. 36 00:01:54,400 --> 00:01:56,080 Not necessarily a good look. 37 00:01:56,120 --> 00:01:58,340 That is all Taliban territory. 38 00:02:01,220 --> 00:02:05,440 We're heading off the beaten path, on an expedition of a lifetime. 39 00:02:14,120 --> 00:02:16,240 -You're going towards Srinagar? -Srinagar? 40 00:02:16,280 --> 00:02:18,020 You're going to Islamabad? 41 00:02:30,100 --> 00:02:32,060 On the first leg of our journey, 42 00:02:32,100 --> 00:02:34,180 Ash and I will travel through Ladakh. 43 00:02:34,220 --> 00:02:36,260 Into the mountains, what a beautiful place! 44 00:02:36,320 --> 00:02:39,100 Located on the northernmost tip of India, 45 00:02:39,140 --> 00:02:44,020 sharing disputed borders with both Pakistan and China. 46 00:02:46,080 --> 00:02:47,160 Go, Freddie! 47 00:02:48,400 --> 00:02:51,320 First of all, you'll lose your weight. 48 00:02:58,040 --> 00:02:59,320 What is this madness? 49 00:03:05,460 --> 00:03:06,380 Here we are. 50 00:03:06,420 --> 00:03:09,140 Here we are, mate! One of the northernmost villages in India! 51 00:03:09,180 --> 00:03:11,120 This is where it begins, Lev. 52 00:03:11,160 --> 00:03:13,080 It really does the edge of India! 53 00:03:13,120 --> 00:03:14,320 And just over there 54 00:03:14,360 --> 00:03:16,420 is where we're going to finish the village of Fraono, 55 00:03:16,460 --> 00:03:18,300 on the other side of the Line of Control. 56 00:03:18,360 --> 00:03:20,080 It's going to be a long journey. 57 00:03:20,120 --> 00:03:22,240 So we're literally gonna be finishing almost an eyesight 58 00:03:22,280 --> 00:03:24,240 -from where we start. -Exactly that! We've got about 59 00:03:24,280 --> 00:03:27,160 2,500 kilometres, all the way round 60 00:03:27,200 --> 00:03:28,280 all the way through Pakistan, 61 00:03:28,320 --> 00:03:30,240 and that's where we'll finish, right there. 62 00:03:31,460 --> 00:03:34,100 Have you got any idea how we're going to get there, mate? 63 00:03:34,140 --> 00:03:36,300 Not yet, but I am sure we'll figure it out. 64 00:03:36,340 --> 00:03:38,200 -Head off? -Let's do it. 65 00:03:42,000 --> 00:03:44,240 Wouldn't expect it to be this hot in the mountains, would you? 66 00:03:44,280 --> 00:03:46,040 Not this time of year anyway. 67 00:03:49,120 --> 00:03:50,320 Where's our next stop? 68 00:03:50,360 --> 00:03:52,420 So, the next place we're heading to is Turtuk. 69 00:03:52,460 --> 00:03:56,240 It's about six kilometres down the road, that way, 70 00:03:56,280 --> 00:03:58,260 away from the Line of Control. 71 00:03:58,300 --> 00:04:02,120 And away from this militarised zone, because it is very sensitive, so... 72 00:04:02,160 --> 00:04:04,440 not allowed to film near the Army base and things, so... 73 00:04:04,480 --> 00:04:06,360 quite nice to get away from all of that. 74 00:04:06,400 --> 00:04:09,200 And then into the mountains, what a beautiful place! 75 00:04:14,100 --> 00:04:17,340 Ash and I have known each other since we were at University. 76 00:04:18,100 --> 00:04:22,200 He's an old expedition buddy of mine and we've had some crazy adventures. 77 00:04:23,080 --> 00:04:25,080 Another three km to Turtuk, mate. 78 00:04:26,120 --> 00:04:29,200 But this is our first time together in Ladakh, 79 00:04:29,240 --> 00:04:32,000 known as "the land of the high passes." 80 00:04:32,320 --> 00:04:36,240 It's a high altitude desert with spectacular terrain. 81 00:04:37,480 --> 00:04:39,060 Bit of a wobble. 82 00:04:42,200 --> 00:04:43,400 Look at these trees. 83 00:04:44,220 --> 00:04:46,040 That is awesome blossom! 84 00:04:48,420 --> 00:04:51,360 After one hour of walking, we reach Turtuk, 85 00:04:51,400 --> 00:04:53,360 the first village on our journey. 86 00:04:56,480 --> 00:04:57,400 How you doing? 87 00:04:58,140 --> 00:04:59,480 Let's take a rest at the top. 88 00:05:01,300 --> 00:05:03,460 Just a few kilometres from the Line of Control, 89 00:05:04,000 --> 00:05:06,100 it has had to deal with the consequences of conflict 90 00:05:06,140 --> 00:05:07,380 between India and Pakistan. 91 00:05:08,220 --> 00:05:12,160 But after years of relative peace, it is now open to outsiders. 92 00:05:12,220 --> 00:05:15,080 And the hospitable locals are keen to welcome visitors. 93 00:05:15,120 --> 00:05:15,480 Julley. 94 00:05:16,360 --> 00:05:20,000 Local guesthouse owner Hashmat wants to show us around. 95 00:05:21,380 --> 00:05:23,480 He's part of the Balti tribe 96 00:05:24,020 --> 00:05:26,380 a Muslim ethnic group of Tibetan origin. 97 00:05:29,200 --> 00:05:30,340 -What's this? -Barley. 98 00:05:30,380 --> 00:05:32,000 Barley, okay! 99 00:05:32,040 --> 00:05:32,380 Julley. 100 00:05:32,420 --> 00:05:35,020 They've lived in this valley for hundreds of years, 101 00:05:35,060 --> 00:05:37,340 and their unique way of life has barely changed. 102 00:05:38,200 --> 00:05:41,140 But only a small population remains in India. 103 00:05:41,180 --> 00:05:44,040 Well, what's the language and the culture? 104 00:05:44,080 --> 00:05:46,300 We have, 100 percent of the population speaks 105 00:05:46,340 --> 00:05:47,160 the Balti language. 106 00:05:47,200 --> 00:05:48,180 -Balti? Okay. -Yeah. 107 00:05:48,220 --> 00:05:50,040 So, they speak the same language in 108 00:05:50,080 --> 00:05:51,080 -Fraono? -Yeah. 109 00:05:51,120 --> 00:05:53,200 Gilgit Baltistan, speak the same language... 110 00:05:53,240 --> 00:05:56,000 -same culture, same religion. -Really? 111 00:05:56,040 --> 00:05:58,400 -Your father is from India? -Yeah, my father was from India. 112 00:05:58,440 --> 00:06:01,020 You can speak English and Hindi as well? 113 00:06:01,060 --> 00:06:02,300 Yes, Hindi, a little bit. 114 00:06:02,340 --> 00:06:04,340 -A little bit? -Just a little bit. 115 00:06:04,380 --> 00:06:05,180 Yeah, okay. 116 00:06:06,040 --> 00:06:08,020 But he was, he was Punjabi. 117 00:06:08,060 --> 00:06:09,280 So I know, "Chak De Phatte". 118 00:06:09,360 --> 00:06:11,060 "Chak De Phatte!" 119 00:06:13,400 --> 00:06:17,140 We've arrived in Turtuk at the start of spring. 120 00:06:18,460 --> 00:06:23,140 While the women sow the fields with seedlings after a harsh winter, 121 00:06:23,180 --> 00:06:25,400 the men are preparing for polo season. 122 00:06:28,360 --> 00:06:31,360 Hashmat has tipped us off to a game being played 123 00:06:31,400 --> 00:06:33,140 on the edge of town. 124 00:06:33,240 --> 00:06:35,240 Polo field? 125 00:06:35,360 --> 00:06:36,340 Polo field? 126 00:06:37,000 --> 00:06:38,020 -Ahead. -Right there. 127 00:06:38,060 --> 00:06:39,280 I like your hair. It's cool! 128 00:06:39,320 --> 00:06:40,480 It's good. Love this! 129 00:06:44,220 --> 00:06:45,460 Some flags for you there. 130 00:06:46,280 --> 00:06:48,020 Quite a spectacular setting, Lev. 131 00:06:48,060 --> 00:06:49,480 Beautiful, isn't it? Look at that. Doesn't it? 132 00:06:51,480 --> 00:06:55,240 Polo has been played in the region since the 16th Century, 133 00:06:55,280 --> 00:06:58,020 when it was ruled by the Yabgo dynasty 134 00:06:58,060 --> 00:07:00,280 long before the Line of Control existed. 135 00:07:01,080 --> 00:07:04,080 It's still played on both sides of the border. 136 00:07:04,120 --> 00:07:08,240 But with no way to cross, old rivalries are still on hold. 137 00:07:08,280 --> 00:07:09,240 Who is winning? 138 00:07:10,000 --> 00:07:12,120 It's tied. 139 00:07:18,380 --> 00:07:20,220 Which is the best horse here? 140 00:07:20,260 --> 00:07:22,000 -Hi. -Hello. 141 00:07:22,040 --> 00:07:24,020 -Greeting, welcome to Turtuk. -Thank you. 142 00:07:24,060 --> 00:07:25,100 It's me, Rahim. 143 00:07:25,140 --> 00:07:27,460 -Is this your polo ground? -Yes this is the 144 00:07:28,000 --> 00:07:31,300 -most highest polo ground in India. -Yeah. 145 00:07:31,340 --> 00:07:34,160 -If you want to try horse polo? -Yeah! 146 00:07:34,200 --> 00:07:36,420 -We can try? -We'll teach you. 147 00:07:36,460 --> 00:07:38,460 -Okay. -How to ride and how to play. 148 00:07:39,000 --> 00:07:40,040 -Perfect! -Okay. 149 00:07:40,080 --> 00:07:40,440 Come on. 150 00:07:41,140 --> 00:07:44,460 -So, this is the uniform. -Uniform? Great! 151 00:07:46,060 --> 00:07:47,040 Thanks. 152 00:07:47,080 --> 00:07:49,020 First of all, wear these guards. 153 00:07:49,060 --> 00:07:51,000 -Right. -Royal Turtuk. 154 00:07:51,040 --> 00:07:53,020 Sir do you have experience on riding? 155 00:07:53,060 --> 00:07:54,260 Little bit, yes, yes. 156 00:07:54,300 --> 00:07:56,440 -I might need a bit more practise. -Okay, sir. 157 00:08:03,260 --> 00:08:05,420 I'm nervous and excited. 158 00:08:06,200 --> 00:08:09,400 Lev has played polo before, but this is my first time 159 00:08:09,440 --> 00:08:12,340 and I want to give it my best shot. 160 00:08:14,120 --> 00:08:16,420 Okay, we can have a go? 161 00:08:17,440 --> 00:08:20,360 One foot in the stirrup and then... 162 00:08:23,380 --> 00:08:25,180 -Take care. -Take care? 163 00:08:25,220 --> 00:08:26,360 -I will take care. -Okay. 164 00:08:26,400 --> 00:08:29,240 -So, left-right-stop? -Yes. 165 00:08:29,280 --> 00:08:31,180 Definitely going to look forward to the stop. 166 00:08:34,000 --> 00:08:36,260 Okay, here we go, that's it, Freddie. 167 00:08:36,300 --> 00:08:38,340 That's the pace we'll go at for a bit, mate. 168 00:08:38,380 --> 00:08:40,420 -Ready, sir? -I think we're ready, yeah. 169 00:08:40,460 --> 00:08:42,240 -Yes, sir. -Okay, let's go. 170 00:08:46,320 --> 00:08:47,440 Yeah! 171 00:08:48,420 --> 00:08:50,380 Go, Freddie! Go! 172 00:08:51,180 --> 00:08:52,200 Let's go, Freddie. 173 00:08:52,460 --> 00:08:54,060 Let's get Lev! 174 00:08:57,040 --> 00:08:58,040 Yes! 175 00:08:58,080 --> 00:08:59,240 I may not be a natural, 176 00:08:59,280 --> 00:09:01,100 -but I am a trier. -Oh, "----" 177 00:09:01,340 --> 00:09:04,280 Unfortunately, my horse isn't. 178 00:09:05,200 --> 00:09:08,220 When life matches a horse like Freddie, with a rider like me 179 00:09:08,260 --> 00:09:11,040 all one can do is stay in the saddle 180 00:09:11,080 --> 00:09:12,380 -and trot along. -Go Freddie. 181 00:09:14,060 --> 00:09:17,460 Meanwhile, just a few minutes in and Lev already looks like a pro. 182 00:09:25,180 --> 00:09:26,220 How was that? 183 00:09:28,420 --> 00:09:31,000 At half time, we stop to catch a breath. 184 00:09:31,040 --> 00:09:33,220 Have you got any advice for me? 185 00:09:33,260 --> 00:09:36,100 First of all, you'll lose your weight. 186 00:09:36,420 --> 00:09:38,100 Yes, sir. 187 00:09:38,400 --> 00:09:39,340 Because... 188 00:09:40,060 --> 00:09:43,340 My advice is that you'll lose your weight... 189 00:09:43,380 --> 00:09:45,080 What about that guy! 190 00:09:45,120 --> 00:09:48,440 Very important to maintain, in horse riding, 191 00:09:48,480 --> 00:09:51,020 and in horse polo, there is weight fitness. 192 00:09:52,000 --> 00:09:53,360 I'll have you know, I'll have you know 193 00:09:53,400 --> 00:09:55,460 -that this is just pure muscle. -Yes. 194 00:09:56,280 --> 00:09:58,420 -It's not fat. -But you're very healthy. 195 00:09:58,460 --> 00:10:00,420 Yeah, I am too healthy. Exactly! 196 00:10:00,460 --> 00:10:03,340 That was the, that was the answer I was looking for. 197 00:10:04,180 --> 00:10:08,240 -Sir, you play in different teams. -Yeah? 198 00:10:08,280 --> 00:10:10,080 -We'll play against each other. -Great! 199 00:10:10,340 --> 00:10:14,220 Are we getting promoted from the orange novices to the... 200 00:10:14,260 --> 00:10:15,200 Okay. 201 00:10:23,060 --> 00:10:25,180 Okay, it's you and me! 202 00:10:28,320 --> 00:10:32,280 Yes, Freddie! Go, Freddie! Chop, chop! Chop, chop! 203 00:10:33,000 --> 00:10:35,300 Yeah! Shot! Shot! 204 00:10:35,340 --> 00:10:38,280 Freddie, come, Freddie! Freddie, we got him. 205 00:10:38,320 --> 00:10:40,180 Now, that we're going head to head, 206 00:10:40,220 --> 00:10:43,020 it's time to show off my real talent. 207 00:10:43,060 --> 00:10:44,280 That's it, Freddie. Good. 208 00:10:46,340 --> 00:10:48,040 I think we've got them on the run. 209 00:10:51,000 --> 00:10:52,080 Go, Freddie! 210 00:10:53,060 --> 00:10:55,080 Go, Freddie! Whoa "----" 211 00:11:01,360 --> 00:11:03,100 Whoa! Yeah, whoa! 212 00:11:04,380 --> 00:11:05,460 Yes, go on! 213 00:11:06,000 --> 00:11:08,060 Lev plays like a Ladakhi local... 214 00:11:12,260 --> 00:11:14,360 ...and I'm just trying to stay alive. 215 00:11:24,080 --> 00:11:25,100 Yes! 216 00:11:25,140 --> 00:11:28,060 With the scores at two-one, I'm still in this game. 217 00:11:28,100 --> 00:11:30,120 But my teammates are ignoring me. 218 00:11:30,160 --> 00:11:31,320 I am now on my own. 219 00:11:32,080 --> 00:11:35,020 With a comeback on the cards, disaster strikes. 220 00:11:35,060 --> 00:11:36,360 Oh, I broke my stick! 221 00:11:37,080 --> 00:11:39,240 I broke my stick, I'm just too aggressive! 222 00:11:40,060 --> 00:11:41,420 I've been playing too hard. 223 00:11:41,460 --> 00:11:43,260 (SPEAKING IN NATIVE LANGUAGE) 224 00:11:46,180 --> 00:11:47,160 Tired? 225 00:11:48,400 --> 00:11:49,440 (BOTH) Well done, mate! 226 00:11:49,480 --> 00:11:51,260 That was good fun, I really enjoyed that. 227 00:11:51,300 --> 00:11:53,420 That was really good fun. Now, hold on. 228 00:11:55,080 --> 00:11:56,460 -My first polo game. -Thank you so much. 229 00:11:57,000 --> 00:11:57,460 Thank you. 230 00:11:58,000 --> 00:11:58,440 Thanks, Freddie. 231 00:11:58,480 --> 00:12:00,400 I'm sorry, I was a bit heavy for you, Freddie. 232 00:12:00,440 --> 00:12:05,220 Enough action for one day I'm just happy to be in one piece. 233 00:12:11,100 --> 00:12:15,020 So, it's the end of the first day of our journey up here in Turtuk. 234 00:12:15,280 --> 00:12:17,220 Which really feels like a frontier town. 235 00:12:17,260 --> 00:12:19,460 There's only electricity for a few hours a day. 236 00:12:20,180 --> 00:12:22,280 Which is why it's dark. 237 00:12:23,120 --> 00:12:24,120 And... 238 00:12:25,260 --> 00:12:28,220 where we're going to finish is just a few kilometres from here. 239 00:12:28,260 --> 00:12:30,400 But because of the Line of Control... 240 00:12:31,000 --> 00:12:33,480 we're going to have to go all the way around 2,500 kilometres 241 00:12:34,020 --> 00:12:37,420 to finish just on the other side, in the village of Fraono. 242 00:12:37,460 --> 00:12:39,420 It's a long journey ahead 243 00:12:39,460 --> 00:12:42,260 but you know, this is where it really begins 244 00:12:42,300 --> 00:12:46,260 and to be so close to the Line of Control, you know, this 245 00:12:46,300 --> 00:12:48,140 contested border, 246 00:12:49,340 --> 00:12:52,380 you know, is on the one hand, very exciting 247 00:12:52,420 --> 00:12:56,100 but on the other hand, you know, it's also a keen reminder of the, 248 00:12:56,140 --> 00:12:59,300 the sensitivities of this region, and of my journey. 249 00:12:59,340 --> 00:13:01,260 So, I am just going to keep that 250 00:13:01,300 --> 00:13:03,480 at the back of my mind the whole time. 251 00:13:04,020 --> 00:13:07,220 Yeah, this is where the journey begins, really. So... 252 00:13:07,260 --> 00:13:09,340 ...let's see what Ladakh has to offer. 253 00:13:20,360 --> 00:13:24,360 Village life in Turtuk revolves around small hold farming 254 00:13:24,400 --> 00:13:26,300 of barley, buckwheat, 255 00:13:26,340 --> 00:13:29,220 walnut production and rearing livestock. 256 00:13:32,400 --> 00:13:36,380 India's largest harvest of apricots also comes from here. 257 00:13:37,360 --> 00:13:40,160 Every morning, all the villagers pitch in 258 00:13:40,200 --> 00:13:43,080 and we're also keen to help out with the chores. 259 00:13:44,280 --> 00:13:46,040 Hashmat's cousin, Ghulam, 260 00:13:46,080 --> 00:13:49,140 is brave enough to let me milk his precious cow. 261 00:13:49,180 --> 00:13:51,080 Just follow the boss lady. 262 00:13:51,120 --> 00:13:53,440 -She'll be showing us how. -Okay. 263 00:13:56,340 --> 00:13:57,400 Hello, boss lady. 264 00:13:59,480 --> 00:14:01,200 Hello, little lamb. 265 00:14:04,380 --> 00:14:06,140 Imagine you're squeezing a... 266 00:14:06,180 --> 00:14:08,260 -tube of toothpaste. -Okay. 267 00:14:08,300 --> 00:14:10,000 You want to try it? 268 00:14:10,040 --> 00:14:12,260 It's Ash. Ash wants to try it, yeah. 269 00:14:12,300 --> 00:14:14,320 So, Lev, you've got some tips for me, for milking? 270 00:14:14,360 --> 00:14:16,260 Yeah, yeah, yeah, stay away from the back-end. 271 00:14:17,440 --> 00:14:22,020 Okay, so it's just in like that, and then got a bit of lube 272 00:14:22,060 --> 00:14:23,140 and then I am going... 273 00:14:26,300 --> 00:14:27,420 Just squeeze it out. 274 00:14:29,120 --> 00:14:31,380 Oh, there we go, we've got a dribble! Oh, yeah. 275 00:14:32,040 --> 00:14:34,020 Hey, you can do it. You can do it. You can do it. 276 00:14:34,060 --> 00:14:35,160 -Here we go. -That's it. 277 00:14:35,200 --> 00:14:36,280 -Good work. -Here we go! 278 00:14:36,320 --> 00:14:38,100 We've got a little dribble coming out. 279 00:14:38,140 --> 00:14:40,080 You are getting better at it. 280 00:14:41,320 --> 00:14:44,300 Thank you very much for letting me milk you, lovely cow. 281 00:14:44,340 --> 00:14:46,120 You'll have a drink, Ash or what? 282 00:14:48,120 --> 00:14:49,240 So, we got a little... 283 00:14:52,340 --> 00:14:53,240 Oh! 284 00:14:54,200 --> 00:14:55,260 It's quite strong, right? 285 00:14:55,300 --> 00:14:57,360 Yeah, it is, tastes stronger than normal. 286 00:14:57,400 --> 00:14:59,280 That's the beauty of this cow. 287 00:14:59,320 --> 00:15:01,440 These are called Himalayan cows or Dzomos. 288 00:15:01,480 --> 00:15:02,340 Dzomos! 289 00:15:02,380 --> 00:15:04,340 That's their speciality. 290 00:15:04,480 --> 00:15:09,020 Nearly every home has a Dzomo, a cross between a yak and a cow. 291 00:15:09,060 --> 00:15:12,280 It's indigenous to the Himalayas and thrives at this altitude 292 00:15:12,320 --> 00:15:15,160 providing fresh milk for the family every day. 293 00:15:15,200 --> 00:15:17,320 Thank you, cows. Bye. 294 00:15:19,060 --> 00:15:20,080 Keep going? 295 00:15:20,120 --> 00:15:21,060 Keep going. 296 00:15:22,380 --> 00:15:24,380 That's the end of my Hindi. 297 00:15:24,420 --> 00:15:27,140 You asked me how much Hindi I know, "Hashmat" that's it. 298 00:15:28,200 --> 00:15:31,100 -Eat, drink, keep going. -Keep going. 299 00:15:35,000 --> 00:15:37,440 The 1971 India-Pakistan war... 300 00:15:37,480 --> 00:15:40,360 had a profound impact on the people of the region. 301 00:15:41,220 --> 00:15:43,400 The conflict caused the Ceasefire Line 302 00:15:43,440 --> 00:15:45,320 to shift almost overnight. 303 00:15:46,460 --> 00:15:51,100 Residents fell asleep in Pakistan, and woke up the next day in India! 304 00:15:57,180 --> 00:16:01,020 Hashmat's family are still living with the legacy of that tragedy. 305 00:16:01,060 --> 00:16:02,140 -Salaam-Alaikum. -Hello. 306 00:16:02,180 --> 00:16:03,100 Nice to meet you. 307 00:16:03,140 --> 00:16:05,240 Your mum? Hi, lovely to meet you. 308 00:16:06,300 --> 00:16:09,380 Hashmat's mother, Rahima was only 17 309 00:16:09,420 --> 00:16:12,120 when separated from her eldest brother, 310 00:16:12,160 --> 00:16:13,400 Muhammad Bashir. 311 00:16:18,440 --> 00:16:20,240 And, so for you, living here 312 00:16:20,280 --> 00:16:23,360 do you not mind whether you live in India or Pakistan? 313 00:16:23,400 --> 00:16:27,260 You just wish that you could be in the same country as your family. 314 00:16:27,300 --> 00:16:30,260 There's no difference between India and Pakistan. 315 00:16:30,300 --> 00:16:34,020 We have no complaints from India either. 316 00:16:34,060 --> 00:16:39,140 But the separation from our family has scarred our hearts. 317 00:16:39,320 --> 00:16:41,440 How does it feel to know your brother is building a life 318 00:16:41,480 --> 00:16:45,280 and has family there and you don't know his children 319 00:16:45,320 --> 00:16:48,200 and you don't get the chance to be a part of their life? 320 00:16:48,240 --> 00:16:51,260 If God doesn't want it then we won't be able to meet, right? 321 00:16:51,300 --> 00:16:54,060 Where is your brother on the other side? 322 00:16:54,100 --> 00:16:57,100 Currently, his house is in Skardu. 323 00:16:57,140 --> 00:16:59,160 We will be travelling through Skardu. 324 00:17:00,060 --> 00:17:01,100 We will try to meet him... 325 00:17:01,140 --> 00:17:04,040 You'll definitely get to see him when you go there. 326 00:17:04,080 --> 00:17:05,440 He has a son, Hafeezullah. 327 00:17:06,340 --> 00:17:08,100 -Thank you for the tea as well. -Thank you. 328 00:17:08,140 --> 00:17:09,060 Thank you. 329 00:17:09,100 --> 00:17:10,120 -Thank you. -Thank you. 330 00:17:10,240 --> 00:17:13,220 We're introduced to Hashmat's grandmother Fatima. 331 00:17:13,260 --> 00:17:14,040 Salaam-Alaikum. 332 00:17:14,080 --> 00:17:17,340 At 98, she has lived through decades of unrest. 333 00:17:17,380 --> 00:17:20,380 Where many have passed away without seeing their loved ones, 334 00:17:20,420 --> 00:17:25,080 Fatima met her son in 2013, when he managed to come to Turtuk, 335 00:17:25,120 --> 00:17:27,420 almost 40 years after their separation. 336 00:17:28,180 --> 00:17:30,460 We are, we are going to go to Skardu, 337 00:17:31,000 --> 00:17:33,420 so we will try to meet your son there. 338 00:17:33,460 --> 00:17:37,080 Is there anything you'd like us to take with us to Skardu, 339 00:17:37,120 --> 00:17:38,180 to give to your son? 340 00:17:38,220 --> 00:17:39,420 Send my "salaam". 341 00:17:39,460 --> 00:17:42,080 What else can I give you? I can't even stand without falling. 342 00:17:42,120 --> 00:17:45,440 At this stage, I have nothing to send to him. 343 00:17:45,480 --> 00:17:50,180 I can only send her salaam to him. 344 00:17:50,220 --> 00:17:54,440 We can take a photo to show her son in Skardu. 345 00:17:57,120 --> 00:18:01,160 Coming here as a foreigner and hearing the stories... 346 00:18:02,080 --> 00:18:05,120 about separated families is... 347 00:18:05,160 --> 00:18:06,220 you know, it's kind of heartbreaking, 348 00:18:06,260 --> 00:18:07,300 because you know we... 349 00:18:08,020 --> 00:18:11,040 see this border that's here, this man-made line which for me, 350 00:18:11,080 --> 00:18:13,420 is just, like, sort of line on the map 351 00:18:13,460 --> 00:18:16,200 but for the people who live here, it's... 352 00:18:16,240 --> 00:18:20,460 division of entire families, generations... 353 00:18:21,000 --> 00:18:22,400 ...it just seems a bit ridiculous. 354 00:18:22,440 --> 00:18:25,440 Really, it's just couple of miles away... 355 00:18:27,040 --> 00:18:28,280 and they can't go across. 356 00:18:28,320 --> 00:18:31,020 I mean, I'm really close to my sister 357 00:18:31,300 --> 00:18:35,140 and the idea that just overnight, one day 358 00:18:35,340 --> 00:18:37,340 at the age of 17, I just can't see her or my mum again, 359 00:18:37,380 --> 00:18:39,420 for 47 years! 360 00:18:39,460 --> 00:18:40,320 Like... 361 00:18:41,320 --> 00:18:44,340 that's such an awful idea. It must be heartbreaking, 362 00:18:44,380 --> 00:18:46,480 that division in the heart that she spoke about. 363 00:18:47,020 --> 00:18:48,220 -We will meet again. -Thank you so much, take care. 364 00:18:48,260 --> 00:18:49,420 -Thank you. Good luck. -Bye-bye. 365 00:18:49,460 --> 00:18:51,260 -Bye-bye. -Bye-bye. 366 00:18:55,020 --> 00:18:58,240 We're leaving Turtuk with a renewed sense of purpose 367 00:18:58,280 --> 00:18:59,420 a message of hope, 368 00:18:59,460 --> 00:19:02,320 and a photograph to deliver to Hashmat's family 369 00:19:02,360 --> 00:19:04,440 on the other side of the Line of Control. 370 00:19:06,080 --> 00:19:07,260 For the next 200 kilometres, 371 00:19:07,300 --> 00:19:10,060 we must navigate mountain roads to reach Leh, 372 00:19:10,100 --> 00:19:11,240 crossing Khardung La, 373 00:19:11,280 --> 00:19:14,200 one of the highest motorable passes in the world. 374 00:19:15,080 --> 00:19:17,400 So, just walking out of Turtuk, 375 00:19:17,440 --> 00:19:20,300 which is where we spent the night, last night and... 376 00:19:21,100 --> 00:19:23,380 ...now the big part of the journey begins. 377 00:19:23,420 --> 00:19:26,040 -How you feeling, Lev? -Yeah, good. 378 00:19:26,340 --> 00:19:29,460 I feel a bit more acclimatised now, and 379 00:19:30,000 --> 00:19:33,000 a long road ahead to Leh, it's... 380 00:19:33,040 --> 00:19:37,340 ...quite a distance, it's a good few hundred kilometres, so... 381 00:19:37,440 --> 00:19:40,180 we won't be walking all the way, that's for sure. 382 00:19:40,220 --> 00:19:41,340 The plan is, as soon as 383 00:19:41,380 --> 00:19:45,160 we find a truck that's going in that direction, or... 384 00:19:45,200 --> 00:19:48,060 a car, or whatever, then we'll hitch a ride. 385 00:19:49,020 --> 00:19:51,200 But for now, it's quite nice to stretch off in the morning. 386 00:19:53,440 --> 00:19:56,320 So, we're walking along this road and 387 00:19:56,360 --> 00:19:59,220 there's a lot of these signs, memorials to 388 00:19:59,260 --> 00:20:04,080 people who've fought and died in the various wars that have happened. 389 00:20:04,400 --> 00:20:07,180 It really puts into context from where we've just been. 390 00:20:07,220 --> 00:20:10,100 Because Turtuk was 391 00:20:10,140 --> 00:20:13,180 one of the villages that the Pakistani army came up to in 1999 392 00:20:13,220 --> 00:20:16,140 and it must have been terrifying, you're living in a village where 393 00:20:16,180 --> 00:20:20,300 you've already had your family cut away from you in 1971 and then 394 00:20:20,340 --> 00:20:22,200 28 years later 395 00:20:22,240 --> 00:20:23,320 you know, you've rebuilt your life 396 00:20:23,360 --> 00:20:27,020 and people are firing massive artillery shells around you. 397 00:20:27,060 --> 00:20:32,140 I remember seeing it on the news, these... scenes of the artillery 398 00:20:32,340 --> 00:20:35,460 smashing villages, high up in the mountains and 399 00:20:36,000 --> 00:20:39,020 bombs flying on both sides of the border 400 00:20:39,060 --> 00:20:42,400 just a keen reminder of the sacrifices made 401 00:20:43,040 --> 00:20:47,280 to defend these high villages, and high passes 402 00:20:47,440 --> 00:20:49,220 and the lives lost, you know. 403 00:20:49,260 --> 00:20:53,440 This is very much, the frontier of two countries. 404 00:20:53,480 --> 00:20:57,460 Surreal to think, you know, all this used to be one nation. 405 00:20:58,000 --> 00:21:01,020 Very sad to see these divisions, you know, split in two. 406 00:21:01,440 --> 00:21:03,240 Like that boulder there. 407 00:21:14,320 --> 00:21:18,120 After two hours of walking, we've covered just five kilometres. 408 00:21:18,160 --> 00:21:21,000 At this altitude, the blazing sun is punishing 409 00:21:21,040 --> 00:21:23,320 and the barren terrain offers little respite. 410 00:21:24,060 --> 00:21:25,480 But there is one way to cool off. 411 00:21:27,080 --> 00:21:29,260 -That river looks inviting though. -Yeah. 412 00:21:29,300 --> 00:21:31,040 What do you reckon? Should we get in? 413 00:21:31,080 --> 00:21:34,320 Well, it will certainly help alleviate some heat from the sun. 414 00:21:34,360 --> 00:21:36,480 I think that's coming straight out of the glacier. 415 00:21:37,020 --> 00:21:38,320 It's going to be cold but, you know... 416 00:21:39,140 --> 00:21:40,220 let's check it out. 417 00:21:51,360 --> 00:21:54,380 This chilly water must be about 10 degree Celsius. 418 00:21:55,400 --> 00:21:57,420 I'm not complaining about the heat now! 419 00:22:00,340 --> 00:22:03,220 Refreshed after a dip in the Shyok river, 420 00:22:03,260 --> 00:22:05,400 we head further into the Nubra valley, 421 00:22:05,440 --> 00:22:09,320 the halfway point to Leh, using the river as our guide. 422 00:22:14,240 --> 00:22:17,140 "Shyok'" translates to the river of sorrow, 423 00:22:17,180 --> 00:22:19,220 but for us it's our compass. 424 00:22:19,280 --> 00:22:22,440 Originating from the Rimo glacier of Siachen... 425 00:22:22,480 --> 00:22:24,440 it flows through northern Ladakh 426 00:22:24,480 --> 00:22:28,480 and joins the Indus crossing the Line of Control near Fraono... 427 00:22:29,020 --> 00:22:30,360 the end point of our journey. 428 00:22:36,460 --> 00:22:39,340 Ten kilometres on, and we spot a potential ride. 429 00:22:40,040 --> 00:22:42,140 -There's a bus here, shall we wait? -Yeah. 430 00:22:45,160 --> 00:22:47,360 -Yes! He's stopping. -Julley! Yes! 431 00:22:47,400 --> 00:22:49,020 Step on? 432 00:22:49,060 --> 00:22:50,300 Okay? Julley! 433 00:22:50,340 --> 00:22:52,180 Come on in! 434 00:22:52,220 --> 00:22:53,380 Are you going towards Leh? 435 00:22:53,420 --> 00:22:54,300 -Yeah. -Great! 436 00:22:54,340 --> 00:22:55,320 -Julley! -Hi! 437 00:22:55,360 --> 00:22:56,460 Julley! Julley! 438 00:23:02,160 --> 00:23:04,260 The bus route runs from Turtuk to Leh, 439 00:23:04,300 --> 00:23:07,300 connecting isolated villages to the Ladakhi capital. 440 00:23:08,020 --> 00:23:10,260 In the winter, the road can be shut for days on end 441 00:23:10,300 --> 00:23:13,120 due to avalanches and landslides. 442 00:23:13,160 --> 00:23:14,440 While the road seems clear today, 443 00:23:14,480 --> 00:23:17,000 it's not a journey for the faint-hearted. 444 00:23:19,200 --> 00:23:22,260 We meet Gullu, who runs this bus service. 445 00:23:22,300 --> 00:23:24,060 Hi, how are you? 446 00:23:24,100 --> 00:23:26,100 -How are you! -This is me, Ghulam Hussaini. 447 00:23:26,140 --> 00:23:27,020 What's your name? 448 00:23:27,060 --> 00:23:27,460 My name is Hussaini. 449 00:23:28,000 --> 00:23:29,380 -Ghulam Hussaini. Yeah. -Hussaini. Okay. 450 00:23:29,420 --> 00:23:31,120 People call me Gullu. 451 00:23:31,160 --> 00:23:32,060 -Gullu? -Yeah. 452 00:23:32,100 --> 00:23:33,200 Where are you from, Gullu? 453 00:23:33,240 --> 00:23:35,340 Actually, I am from Tyakshi, Turtuk. 454 00:23:35,380 --> 00:23:37,240 -You're from Turtuk? -Yeah. 455 00:23:37,280 --> 00:23:39,260 All your family are in Turtuk? 456 00:23:39,300 --> 00:23:41,300 -Yeah, in Tyakshi. -In Tyakshi. 457 00:23:41,340 --> 00:23:44,060 Oh, yeah. On the final frontier right at the border. 458 00:23:44,100 --> 00:23:45,140 Yeah, yeah. 459 00:23:45,180 --> 00:23:48,200 Gullu feels strongly for this land and his people. 460 00:23:48,240 --> 00:23:51,060 He desperately wants the road connecting this region 461 00:23:51,100 --> 00:23:53,000 to Skardu to be opened. 462 00:23:53,040 --> 00:23:57,060 In Baltistan, even In Ladakh and few parts of Baltistan 463 00:23:57,100 --> 00:23:58,400 -the Turtuk area... -Yeah. 464 00:23:59,180 --> 00:24:04,140 Both side people on both sides are quite peaceful persons, you know. 465 00:24:04,180 --> 00:24:08,440 Why Indians and Pakistanis hesitate, I don't know. 466 00:24:08,480 --> 00:24:13,200 Why they are not opening this road, we don't understand till now. 467 00:24:13,240 --> 00:24:16,200 Because they can never understand our pain. 468 00:24:16,240 --> 00:24:18,160 -It must be very hard. -Yeah. 469 00:24:18,200 --> 00:24:21,260 Most people here have a separation story to tell, 470 00:24:21,300 --> 00:24:23,040 and Gullu is no different. 471 00:24:23,080 --> 00:24:27,480 People are dying, passing away, so many such stories exist. 472 00:24:28,020 --> 00:24:31,120 So, what is the solution that you want? 473 00:24:31,160 --> 00:24:33,040 It is only option is that, 474 00:24:33,080 --> 00:24:35,400 the Indian and Pakistani government... 475 00:24:35,440 --> 00:24:37,460 -If their relations are good... -Yeah. 476 00:24:38,000 --> 00:24:40,440 ...then maybe they can talk about our issues also. 477 00:24:40,480 --> 00:24:42,020 And you can open the road. 478 00:24:42,060 --> 00:24:43,200 Yeah, they open the roads 479 00:24:43,240 --> 00:24:45,340 and we can meet our divided families. 480 00:24:45,380 --> 00:24:47,140 And that's what you're campaigning for? 481 00:24:47,180 --> 00:24:47,480 Yeah, yeah. 482 00:24:48,020 --> 00:24:49,400 -Your, your dream is to... -Yeah. 483 00:24:49,440 --> 00:24:51,220 You don't, you don't need the borders to change, 484 00:24:51,260 --> 00:24:52,340 you just want the road to open, 485 00:24:52,380 --> 00:24:54,260 -that's all you want. -Yeah, yeah. 486 00:24:54,320 --> 00:24:57,200 It's only a matter of few hours to get there... 487 00:24:57,240 --> 00:24:59,100 when we wish to see our relatives or families. 488 00:24:59,140 --> 00:25:01,180 But right now, we have to travel 489 00:25:01,220 --> 00:25:04,100 thousands of kilometres for the same. 490 00:25:04,140 --> 00:25:05,300 Yeah, we're doing that journey. 491 00:25:05,340 --> 00:25:07,240 We're travelling to Skardu. 492 00:25:07,280 --> 00:25:08,440 My uncle is there. 493 00:25:09,000 --> 00:25:10,460 -Yeah. -His name is Ghulam Qadir. 494 00:25:11,000 --> 00:25:13,200 Maybe he will, he will invite you. 495 00:25:13,240 --> 00:25:15,160 Well, I hope we can find him. 496 00:25:15,200 --> 00:25:16,320 -We can find him. -He's in Skardu. 497 00:25:16,360 --> 00:25:17,480 Okay, and his name is? 498 00:25:18,020 --> 00:25:20,360 -Ghulam Qadir. -Ghulam Qadir. 499 00:25:20,400 --> 00:25:22,380 Oh, thank you. Thank you for sharing your story. 500 00:25:22,420 --> 00:25:23,360 Yeah. 501 00:25:23,460 --> 00:25:28,180 So, when we travel to Skardu through Pakistan... 502 00:25:28,220 --> 00:25:29,400 do you have a message or something that 503 00:25:29,440 --> 00:25:32,160 we can take with us to the other side? 504 00:25:32,420 --> 00:25:37,060 Yeah, actually pay our regards and salaam to them. 505 00:25:37,100 --> 00:25:39,300 -We can do that. -That's my message. 506 00:25:39,340 --> 00:25:40,440 -Thank you. -Yeah. 507 00:25:40,480 --> 00:25:42,040 It was very interesting. 508 00:25:45,180 --> 00:25:48,080 Gullu not only wants to send his salaam... 509 00:25:48,320 --> 00:25:50,320 ...but also a little special something too. 510 00:25:50,360 --> 00:25:51,360 Hello! This is... 511 00:25:51,400 --> 00:25:53,240 -What are you carrying there? -This is for my uncle. 512 00:25:53,280 --> 00:25:54,400 -All right! What is it? -Yeah. 513 00:25:54,440 --> 00:25:57,280 It's a pressure cooker, actually. 514 00:25:57,320 --> 00:26:00,260 In, in Pakistan, they are you know, 515 00:26:00,300 --> 00:26:03,200 -very rare? -It's an open one. You know... 516 00:26:03,240 --> 00:26:05,420 So, it's inside... yeah. 517 00:26:05,460 --> 00:26:07,180 -So, this is the... -This is... Yeah. 518 00:26:07,220 --> 00:26:09,060 -So, this is a pressure cooker? -Very nice. 519 00:26:09,100 --> 00:26:10,260 -So, he'll like this? -Yeah. 520 00:26:10,300 --> 00:26:11,460 What's, his name is 521 00:26:12,000 --> 00:26:14,000 -Yeah. -(ALL) Haji Abdul Qadir. 522 00:26:14,040 --> 00:26:15,000 Well, we'll find him. 523 00:26:15,040 --> 00:26:16,200 -Yeah, he... -Yeah. 524 00:26:16,260 --> 00:26:19,080 He's a well-known person, so you can 525 00:26:19,120 --> 00:26:21,340 -ask anybody! -All right, okay. 526 00:26:21,380 --> 00:26:22,180 Safe travels. 527 00:26:22,220 --> 00:26:23,120 -Thank you very much. -Bye-bye. 528 00:26:23,160 --> 00:26:24,200 -Thank you. -Bye-bye. 529 00:26:24,240 --> 00:26:25,060 Bye. 530 00:26:31,360 --> 00:26:33,300 I wasn't quite expecting that. 531 00:26:33,340 --> 00:26:35,360 Now, we're going to carry this all the way. 532 00:26:38,080 --> 00:26:40,280 -Your turn first? -Well, he was your mate. 533 00:26:41,340 --> 00:26:42,300 Come on. 534 00:26:43,260 --> 00:26:44,300 All right, this way. 535 00:26:46,020 --> 00:26:47,400 We're now in the heart of Nubra Valley, 536 00:26:47,440 --> 00:26:49,260 almost halfway to Leh. 537 00:26:50,120 --> 00:26:53,180 This valley separates Ladakh from the Karakoram Ranges 538 00:26:53,220 --> 00:26:55,240 and the mighty Siachen Glacier. 539 00:26:57,120 --> 00:27:00,460 Being a cold desert, at an altitude of almost 10,000 feet 540 00:27:01,000 --> 00:27:03,320 the weather conditions here can change very quickly. 541 00:27:07,480 --> 00:27:10,140 Don't know where that wind came from but 542 00:27:10,180 --> 00:27:11,380 it's really picked up now. 543 00:27:11,420 --> 00:27:14,000 We can't barely see a thing. 544 00:27:14,340 --> 00:27:18,200 All the mountains are completely whited out. 545 00:27:18,240 --> 00:27:20,280 And there's dust coming up. 546 00:27:20,320 --> 00:27:22,100 Got a real mouthful. 547 00:27:22,400 --> 00:27:25,160 I have nearly lost my hat a few times. 548 00:27:25,200 --> 00:27:27,040 I think it's time to put the scarf up. 549 00:27:30,140 --> 00:27:33,300 You don't want to find yourself in the middle of a sandstorm. 550 00:27:33,480 --> 00:27:36,220 The visibility drops to almost nothing. 551 00:27:38,480 --> 00:27:42,300 We still have a 100 kilometres to go to reach Leh by nightfall. 552 00:27:43,020 --> 00:27:46,280 But if these conditions persist, the pass will be closed 553 00:27:47,000 --> 00:27:48,240 and we'll be stranded. 554 00:27:56,380 --> 00:28:00,360 We're at 18,000 feet, heading towards Khardung La. 555 00:28:03,440 --> 00:28:07,080 The skies have cleared but the conditions remain harsh. 556 00:28:08,200 --> 00:28:11,000 It's absolutely freezing up here! 557 00:28:13,020 --> 00:28:15,080 We're going up to this high pass now. 558 00:28:17,160 --> 00:28:18,480 I am really struggling. 559 00:28:19,240 --> 00:28:21,000 Got a bit of a headache 560 00:28:21,100 --> 00:28:22,480 and it's really cold. 561 00:28:23,240 --> 00:28:24,200 But... 562 00:28:24,240 --> 00:28:26,160 And you've got a pressure cooker on your back. 563 00:28:26,200 --> 00:28:28,420 I've got a pressure cooker on my back. 564 00:28:29,400 --> 00:28:31,200 What is this madness! 565 00:28:46,160 --> 00:28:48,000 There's no fear of that. 566 00:28:50,060 --> 00:28:51,060 You all right? 567 00:28:51,340 --> 00:28:53,300 Feeling a bit ropey, mate. 568 00:28:55,240 --> 00:28:57,180 Got to slow down a bit on the walking. 569 00:29:01,280 --> 00:29:03,220 We reach Khardung La, 570 00:29:03,260 --> 00:29:06,060 and fortunately the road is still open. 571 00:29:06,100 --> 00:29:08,140 Connecting the Nubra Valley to Leh, 572 00:29:08,180 --> 00:29:11,180 this pass was historically a major caravan route 573 00:29:11,220 --> 00:29:14,200 between Leh and Kashgar in Central Asia. 574 00:29:17,420 --> 00:29:20,400 We are still about 40 kilometres from Leh. 575 00:29:20,440 --> 00:29:24,400 The light is fading and the night will bring sub-zero temperatures. 576 00:29:24,440 --> 00:29:27,020 We need to get out of here quickly! 577 00:29:27,260 --> 00:29:30,480 We're not having much luck hitchhiking in these mountain roads. 578 00:29:33,260 --> 00:29:36,140 There's virtually no cars. 579 00:29:36,180 --> 00:29:38,420 I mean, I have hitchhiked all around the world before. 580 00:29:38,460 --> 00:29:41,140 In fact, when I was 22, I even hitchhiked 581 00:29:41,180 --> 00:29:42,460 all the way from England to India. 582 00:29:43,000 --> 00:29:46,180 So, pretty used to hitchhiking, but up here 583 00:29:47,140 --> 00:29:49,040 it's just no one around. 584 00:29:49,080 --> 00:29:52,080 So when a car comes, you've got to grab it. 585 00:29:58,300 --> 00:30:01,000 See if he'll give us a lift, mate. 586 00:30:01,480 --> 00:30:03,420 -Hello, mate. -Hello, mate. 587 00:30:03,460 --> 00:30:05,480 Have you got space for two? 588 00:30:06,020 --> 00:30:08,240 -Where are you guys going? -Leh. 589 00:30:09,060 --> 00:30:10,220 -Hi. -Come on in. 590 00:30:10,260 --> 00:30:11,080 -Yeah. -Cheers, mate. 591 00:30:11,120 --> 00:30:13,060 -Same way? -Yeah, we're going to Leh. 592 00:30:14,380 --> 00:30:16,060 Oh, finally! 593 00:30:16,100 --> 00:30:18,320 -I'll jump in the back. -All right mate. Good job. 594 00:30:19,480 --> 00:30:21,120 You walked a long way? 595 00:30:21,380 --> 00:30:23,100 Yeah, long way. 596 00:30:23,140 --> 00:30:24,260 What's your name? 597 00:30:24,300 --> 00:30:26,160 -What's your name? -My name is Stanzin. 598 00:30:26,200 --> 00:30:27,340 - Stanzin. -Stanzin Namgyal. 599 00:30:27,380 --> 00:30:29,040 Stanzin "Nyamgal." 600 00:30:29,080 --> 00:30:30,280 -Namgyal. -"Nyamgal." 601 00:30:30,320 --> 00:30:32,040 -Namgyal? -Yes. 602 00:30:32,080 --> 00:30:33,340 My name is Lev, nice to meet you. 603 00:30:33,380 --> 00:30:35,460 -Lovely meeting you, Lev. -I am... 604 00:30:36,000 --> 00:30:37,320 Ash Bhardwaj. 605 00:30:37,360 --> 00:30:39,380 -A very tired Ash Bhardwaj. -Lovely meeting you. 606 00:30:39,420 --> 00:30:41,000 I can't climb in... 607 00:30:43,000 --> 00:30:44,200 I'm very glad you picked us up. 608 00:30:46,160 --> 00:30:49,140 -Where are you coming from? -I am coming from Nubra. 609 00:30:49,180 --> 00:30:51,440 I was visiting my grandmother and my grandfather. 610 00:30:51,480 --> 00:30:54,000 -Oh, really? -Yes. 611 00:30:54,040 --> 00:30:55,340 So, we run a heritage hotel. 612 00:30:55,380 --> 00:30:58,020 -Lovely, -In Stok itself... 613 00:30:58,060 --> 00:31:00,480 ...by the name of Stok Palace Heritage Hotel. 614 00:31:01,160 --> 00:31:03,040 -In the palace? -In the palace. 615 00:31:03,080 --> 00:31:04,220 That's awesome! 616 00:31:04,260 --> 00:31:08,100 How, how did you manage to get a hotel in the palace? 617 00:31:08,140 --> 00:31:11,140 So, I belong to the royal family of Ladakh. 618 00:31:14,260 --> 00:31:16,280 -You're kidding? -No, I'm not. 619 00:31:16,320 --> 00:31:18,160 -Really? -Yes. 620 00:31:18,320 --> 00:31:22,340 What's your, what's your role in the royal family? 621 00:31:22,380 --> 00:31:23,380 So... 622 00:31:25,060 --> 00:31:27,020 I am the crown prince... 623 00:31:27,280 --> 00:31:30,420 and my father is the King of Ladakh. 624 00:31:31,320 --> 00:31:35,120 His name is Raja Jigmed Wangchuk Namgyal. 625 00:31:35,160 --> 00:31:39,440 And he's waiting for me, and my mum is also waiting for me. 626 00:31:39,480 --> 00:31:42,400 -You're the crown prince? -Yes. 627 00:31:42,440 --> 00:31:45,400 We've just been picked up by the crown prince of Ladakh. 628 00:31:46,420 --> 00:31:48,060 You're kidding? 629 00:31:48,100 --> 00:31:50,300 I'm not, I'm seriously not kidding. 630 00:31:50,340 --> 00:31:52,060 -Really? -Yes. 631 00:31:52,100 --> 00:31:53,360 I've never been, 632 00:31:54,360 --> 00:31:57,200 picked up or driven by a prince before. 633 00:31:57,240 --> 00:32:00,220 Lev, have you ever been driven by a prince before? 634 00:32:00,260 --> 00:32:02,220 Well, funnily enough, actually, yes. 635 00:32:03,260 --> 00:32:05,420 -Prince Harry once drove me. -Really? 636 00:32:05,460 --> 00:32:07,100 -Oh, really? -Yeah! 637 00:32:07,140 --> 00:32:10,460 I wouldn't say where from and where to, but yeah... 638 00:32:11,000 --> 00:32:11,360 Do you know Prince Harry? 639 00:32:11,400 --> 00:32:14,420 Do princes have like a Prince WhatsApp group? 640 00:32:14,460 --> 00:32:17,140 Oh, I'm not in that group. 641 00:32:18,060 --> 00:32:20,240 Lev, why don't you introduce me to them? 642 00:32:21,140 --> 00:32:23,140 He lives in Los Angeles now. 643 00:32:24,080 --> 00:32:27,180 So we're spending a couple of nights in Leh. 644 00:32:27,220 --> 00:32:29,260 It's been really great to see a bit of the city, 645 00:32:29,300 --> 00:32:31,100 learn a bit more about it 646 00:32:31,140 --> 00:32:32,480 -see the culture. -Yeah. 647 00:32:33,020 --> 00:32:36,240 And explore, roam around the city a little. 648 00:32:36,280 --> 00:32:39,380 If you're around in Leh for a couple of days 649 00:32:39,420 --> 00:32:42,040 why don't you come towards Stok. 650 00:32:42,080 --> 00:32:44,440 We have this ceremony called the Saka ceremony. 651 00:32:45,240 --> 00:32:47,020 Which is going to take part soon... 652 00:32:47,060 --> 00:32:48,320 -Yeah. -... take place soon so sorry, 653 00:32:48,360 --> 00:32:52,060 take place soon, this coming two days. 654 00:32:52,100 --> 00:32:55,300 You should come and witness the culture, the ceremony. 655 00:32:55,340 --> 00:32:57,240 We'd love to, that's very kind. Thank you. 656 00:32:57,280 --> 00:33:01,220 I'll be honoured to host you guys. 657 00:33:01,260 --> 00:33:03,480 Thank you, that'll be very, very kind. Thank you. 658 00:33:04,020 --> 00:33:06,320 Yeah, sounds like a plan. We have just been invited to 659 00:33:06,360 --> 00:33:07,480 see the palace tomorrow. 660 00:33:08,020 --> 00:33:10,040 -We'd love to come, thank you. -Thank you. 661 00:33:18,480 --> 00:33:21,440 After travelling over 200 kilometres from Turtuk, 662 00:33:21,480 --> 00:33:23,400 we've finally reached Leh... 663 00:33:23,440 --> 00:33:26,280 an old trading town on the Silk Route. 664 00:33:33,320 --> 00:33:37,380 On the outskirts of the city lies the 200-year-old Stok Palace... 665 00:33:37,420 --> 00:33:40,240 the royal residence of our new friend Stanzin 666 00:33:40,280 --> 00:33:43,080 the Namgyal dynasty's reigning prince. 667 00:33:47,000 --> 00:33:48,400 Hey, good to see you again. How are you? 668 00:33:48,440 --> 00:33:50,020 -I'm good. How are you guys? -Good to see you, mate. 669 00:33:50,060 --> 00:33:52,180 -This is the family home? -Yes, it is. 670 00:33:52,220 --> 00:33:54,160 -What a place! -So, how many of you live here? 671 00:33:54,200 --> 00:33:56,020 -Four of us. -Yeah. 672 00:33:56,200 --> 00:33:57,360 Including my grandmother. 673 00:33:58,300 --> 00:34:00,360 -Lot of spare rooms? -Yes, lot of spare rooms. 674 00:34:00,400 --> 00:34:02,080 There are about 76 rooms 675 00:34:02,120 --> 00:34:03,300 -in this whole palace. -Wow! 676 00:34:03,340 --> 00:34:05,220 Cleaning must take ages! 677 00:34:05,260 --> 00:34:06,360 It does. 678 00:34:08,300 --> 00:34:09,300 So amazing. 679 00:34:09,340 --> 00:34:11,140 Why don't I show you the temple? 680 00:34:11,180 --> 00:34:12,380 -Yeah, that'll be great. -Yeah, that'll be great. 681 00:34:12,440 --> 00:34:13,480 Please come. 682 00:34:23,220 --> 00:34:25,320 So the palace has one in-house monk. 683 00:34:25,360 --> 00:34:26,460 His name is Jigmet. 684 00:34:27,000 --> 00:34:29,220 Since we're a patron of Hemis Monastery, 685 00:34:29,420 --> 00:34:32,020 and Chemrey Monastery. 686 00:34:32,060 --> 00:34:33,360 So, we get our monks from 687 00:34:33,400 --> 00:34:36,020 -Chemrey Monastery every year. -Right. 688 00:34:36,060 --> 00:34:37,420 So, he lives here with us. 689 00:34:37,460 --> 00:34:39,060 How long will he stay for? 690 00:34:39,100 --> 00:34:40,360 He'll stay for another year, 691 00:34:40,400 --> 00:34:41,400 -until you know, -Okay. 692 00:34:41,440 --> 00:34:44,100 -there's someone else coming in. -Yeah. 693 00:34:44,140 --> 00:34:45,220 What an important role! 694 00:34:45,260 --> 00:34:48,200 So, we have a protector here, we call him, "The King" here. 695 00:34:49,380 --> 00:34:52,000 It's like when people used to believe, in Thor and Odin, 696 00:34:52,040 --> 00:34:53,160 -that kind of stuff... -Yeah. 697 00:34:53,200 --> 00:34:55,100 -We believe in this god... -Yeah. 698 00:34:55,140 --> 00:34:56,040 "Gyapo". 699 00:34:56,080 --> 00:34:59,340 And what responsibilities do you have as the king of Ladakh? 700 00:34:59,380 --> 00:35:01,260 As a responsibility, you know, 701 00:35:01,300 --> 00:35:03,200 I have lots on my shoulder at the moment. 702 00:35:03,240 --> 00:35:05,240 -Yeah. -Doing something for the community 703 00:35:05,280 --> 00:35:08,380 and keeping the culture, and everything together 704 00:35:08,420 --> 00:35:10,360 so it lasts forever. 705 00:35:10,400 --> 00:35:12,200 -Whatever that has been in past -Right. 706 00:35:12,240 --> 00:35:13,260 and keep it for the future as well. 707 00:35:13,300 --> 00:35:17,000 So, you're like a guardian of all of this legacy and the history? 708 00:35:17,040 --> 00:35:18,120 -Yes. -Yeah. 709 00:35:27,380 --> 00:35:29,180 Wow! 710 00:35:29,220 --> 00:35:31,320 Leh has its own different charm you see. 711 00:35:31,360 --> 00:35:34,020 -Yeah. -In the summers, it's green. 712 00:35:34,060 --> 00:35:37,280 When it's autumn time, you know, all the leaves turn yellow, ochre... 713 00:35:38,200 --> 00:35:40,320 golden, red. It's different, you know. 714 00:35:40,360 --> 00:35:41,380 But this is the first day 715 00:35:41,420 --> 00:35:43,020 -of spring here, right? -Yeah. 716 00:35:43,060 --> 00:35:44,460 This is when all the magic happens. 717 00:35:50,260 --> 00:35:54,380 Ladakhi festivals hail from a tradition of Tibetan Buddhism. 718 00:35:54,420 --> 00:35:57,320 The open courtyards host celebrations 719 00:35:57,360 --> 00:36:01,420 where prayers, dances and folk songs are performed by monks. 720 00:36:03,080 --> 00:36:06,160 Well, I don't get invited to palaces by princes all that often. 721 00:36:06,200 --> 00:36:09,020 So, I don't really know what to expect but, 722 00:36:09,060 --> 00:36:11,280 this is certainly far beyond what I could have imagined. 723 00:36:18,260 --> 00:36:21,480 Is this the ceremony that if you do that here, does this... 724 00:36:22,020 --> 00:36:23,220 bring good fortune to, 725 00:36:23,260 --> 00:36:25,100 -all of Ladakh? -Yes all of Ladakh. 726 00:36:25,140 --> 00:36:27,280 Hopefully, it will give us good luck for the rest of our journey as well. 727 00:36:27,320 --> 00:36:28,460 I'm sure, I'm sure. 728 00:36:29,380 --> 00:36:32,020 We just had this ceremony in the courtyard 729 00:36:32,060 --> 00:36:34,100 to ask for the blessings for spring, 730 00:36:34,140 --> 00:36:36,300 and now we're going down to the field 731 00:36:36,340 --> 00:36:39,220 where they are going to plant the first seeds 732 00:36:39,260 --> 00:36:42,040 and looking forward to a good season. 733 00:36:44,120 --> 00:36:47,060 So Lev, I think this is the plough they're putting on. 734 00:36:48,120 --> 00:36:52,000 -Let's see if we can give a hand? -Yeah how's your ploughing skills? 735 00:36:52,040 --> 00:36:54,460 I think this part of the ceremony seems 736 00:36:55,060 --> 00:37:00,320 to herald the coming of spring, and you know, the "saka." 737 00:37:00,480 --> 00:37:02,360 So, it's like a ritual ploughing? 738 00:37:16,300 --> 00:37:19,120 The villagers use Dzos to plough the fields. 739 00:37:19,160 --> 00:37:21,000 Okay, just hold on. 740 00:37:21,340 --> 00:37:24,420 And it looks straight forward, so we decide to jump in. 741 00:37:28,280 --> 00:37:30,000 It's hard work this! 742 00:37:37,220 --> 00:37:38,360 Oh, dear! 743 00:37:38,400 --> 00:37:41,400 I don't think I'm built for ploughing this field. 744 00:37:44,280 --> 00:37:48,240 I can say, we were enthusiastic. We were making an effort... 745 00:37:51,280 --> 00:37:53,080 Given that it took... 746 00:37:53,120 --> 00:37:55,140 I've never seen a dancing yak before. 747 00:37:55,180 --> 00:37:57,220 Look at him. He's loving it! 748 00:38:00,200 --> 00:38:02,220 Despite our terrible ploughing skills, 749 00:38:02,260 --> 00:38:03,460 the guys are sweet enough to share their 750 00:38:04,000 --> 00:38:07,480 traditional brew Chhaang, a barley-based alcohol beverage. 751 00:38:08,040 --> 00:38:09,460 -Julley! -Bye-bye. 752 00:38:10,000 --> 00:38:11,440 Good luck with the rest of the ploughing. 753 00:38:12,200 --> 00:38:14,120 -Thank you, bye-bye. -Thank you. 754 00:38:16,000 --> 00:38:19,280 Fuelled with the local Chhaang, we find our way to Leh market. 755 00:38:19,320 --> 00:38:21,480 A short pause before we hit the road again. 756 00:38:23,100 --> 00:38:28,100 The old town of Leh is spread below the 17th Century Leh Palace. 757 00:38:30,300 --> 00:38:31,320 Hey! How are you? 758 00:38:31,360 --> 00:38:33,100 -Good, how you doing? -Where are you from? 759 00:38:33,140 --> 00:38:34,260 From England, London! 760 00:38:34,300 --> 00:38:35,340 Are you from there? 761 00:38:37,040 --> 00:38:37,480 Look at that! 762 00:38:38,360 --> 00:38:41,340 Ferndale Road, London -SW4. 763 00:38:42,140 --> 00:38:44,480 I think I've got a mate that used to live on Ferndale Road. 764 00:38:45,020 --> 00:38:45,440 Julley! 765 00:38:50,340 --> 00:38:52,280 Sounds like we've got music here, Lev. 766 00:38:52,320 --> 00:38:54,400 -Yeah, should we go listen? -Let's go check it out. 767 00:38:57,300 --> 00:38:59,360 "Having the precious human life, 768 00:38:59,400 --> 00:39:02,260 why can't we practise kind-heartedness?" 769 00:39:02,300 --> 00:39:04,440 Having the complete senses in our body, 770 00:39:04,480 --> 00:39:07,180 why can't we make it a temple of faith? 771 00:39:07,220 --> 00:39:09,240 Still the great pride and ego, 772 00:39:09,280 --> 00:39:12,300 stops us from seeing the suffering of others. 773 00:39:12,340 --> 00:39:17,180 Even Brothers do not treat each other like humans. 774 00:39:17,220 --> 00:39:22,180 Saying 'Zangla Zangla,' Zangla is not inferior 775 00:39:22,220 --> 00:39:27,260 Saying 'Zangla Zangla,' Zangla is not inferior. 776 00:39:27,300 --> 00:39:32,300 If the village is inferior, then why did you send your sister? 777 00:39:32,340 --> 00:39:35,140 Even Brothers do not 778 00:39:35,180 --> 00:39:39,060 treat each other like humans. 779 00:39:43,200 --> 00:39:45,100 -Thanks, man! I loved it. -Thank you so much. 780 00:39:45,140 --> 00:39:46,380 It's brilliant! 781 00:39:46,420 --> 00:39:48,380 -Would you like to join us? -Yeah, sure! 782 00:39:48,420 --> 00:39:50,420 I want to learn about this kind of music. 783 00:39:50,460 --> 00:39:53,340 Da-Shugs are a Ladakhi folk rock band. 784 00:39:53,380 --> 00:39:55,120 They use traditional instruments 785 00:39:55,160 --> 00:39:57,360 and throat singing for their unique sound. 786 00:40:00,220 --> 00:40:03,000 Having a jam in the palace of Leh. 787 00:40:03,040 --> 00:40:05,280 Lev and Ash we're having it great. 788 00:40:05,320 --> 00:40:08,060 We're gonna go for a walk tomorrow. 789 00:40:08,100 --> 00:40:10,400 Anyone wants to come, you can follow. 790 00:40:10,440 --> 00:40:13,200 We'll go up on a mountain pass. 791 00:40:13,240 --> 00:40:16,000 Will we last? We won't last. 792 00:40:16,040 --> 00:40:18,280 We'll go fast and we'll go slow. 793 00:40:18,320 --> 00:40:21,100 That's what we will do tomorrow. 794 00:40:21,140 --> 00:40:23,360 Jamming on a roof, I've never done it before. 795 00:40:23,400 --> 00:40:26,200 Maybe I'll end up falling on the floor. 796 00:40:26,240 --> 00:40:28,400 Pitch quite high, I'm not very good. 797 00:40:28,440 --> 00:40:31,420 Having fun in Leh neighbourhood. 798 00:40:33,100 --> 00:40:34,100 Goodbye, Leh. 799 00:40:34,260 --> 00:40:35,320 Goodbye, Leh. 800 00:40:36,200 --> 00:40:37,380 See you next time. 801 00:40:38,480 --> 00:40:43,140 Ash and I are on a 200-kilometre-ride to Kargil. 802 00:40:43,180 --> 00:40:47,100 We're on the Leh-Srinagar highway, the lifeline of Ladakh. 803 00:40:48,420 --> 00:40:54,200 A region which saw violent conflict between India and Pakistan in 1999. 804 00:40:55,440 --> 00:40:57,180 For nearly three months, 805 00:40:57,220 --> 00:41:00,220 the Pakistani forces tried to cut off this region 806 00:41:00,260 --> 00:41:02,100 by dominating the heights, 807 00:41:02,140 --> 00:41:05,220 and shelling the highway in Kargil and Dras. 808 00:41:05,260 --> 00:41:08,200 Views like this, trying to keep your eyes on the road isn't easy. 809 00:41:08,480 --> 00:41:11,080 Today the guns are silent 810 00:41:11,120 --> 00:41:14,240 and there are only spectacular views all around. 811 00:41:16,380 --> 00:41:17,360 Yeah. 812 00:41:26,100 --> 00:41:30,080 We're stopping at Kargil, the second largest city in Ladakh. 813 00:41:34,160 --> 00:41:35,040 How you doing? 814 00:41:35,080 --> 00:41:39,160 We're meeting Muzammil Hussain, a passionate Kargil resident 815 00:41:39,200 --> 00:41:43,040 who runs Roots Ladakh, a tourism and social enterprise. 816 00:41:43,080 --> 00:41:44,040 Yeah, yeah, let's go. 817 00:41:44,080 --> 00:41:46,000 He's agreed to guide us here. 818 00:41:51,060 --> 00:41:52,480 So, we run this thing called Roots. 819 00:41:53,260 --> 00:41:55,200 And we're trying to basically 820 00:41:55,240 --> 00:41:58,100 sort of promote this area in a different light. 821 00:41:58,140 --> 00:42:00,460 Because when you talk about Kargil as a place you know... 822 00:42:01,000 --> 00:42:02,400 -People just think about 1999. -Yeah, you just 823 00:42:02,440 --> 00:42:04,440 people have this perception of the war. 824 00:42:04,480 --> 00:42:07,100 Kargil has always been a transit location, right? 825 00:42:07,140 --> 00:42:12,200 Like, even from the old time, when it was part of the Silk Route 826 00:42:12,240 --> 00:42:13,360 it was a transit location. 827 00:42:13,400 --> 00:42:16,340 So, it was that meeting point, that transaction point 828 00:42:16,380 --> 00:42:19,460 where all the traders who were coming had to stop here. 829 00:42:20,000 --> 00:42:21,360 -Yeah. -So, even in today's time, 830 00:42:21,400 --> 00:42:24,160 in the contemporary it has remained that 831 00:42:24,200 --> 00:42:26,000 sort of a transit location. 832 00:42:26,040 --> 00:42:28,200 Yeah, so this river down below... 833 00:42:29,240 --> 00:42:30,320 is the Suru River. 834 00:42:30,360 --> 00:42:32,200 -The Suru River? -coming from this side, yeah. 835 00:42:32,240 --> 00:42:34,400 That's the river coming from Pakistan... 836 00:42:34,440 --> 00:42:37,100 -Okay. -and it's entering India. 837 00:42:37,140 --> 00:42:39,180 It's Shingo, it's called Shingo River. 838 00:42:39,220 --> 00:42:43,040 So, it meets here, with Suru and then it flows down. 839 00:42:44,120 --> 00:42:45,320 And then meets Indus. 840 00:42:45,360 --> 00:42:47,420 And that's the old Silk Route road... 841 00:42:47,460 --> 00:42:49,280 -This is the Silk Road? -On the far side? 842 00:42:49,320 --> 00:42:51,180 Yeah, that's the old road to Skardu. 843 00:42:51,220 --> 00:42:52,460 -Wow. -So, that little trail there, 844 00:42:53,000 --> 00:42:54,260 -people have been travelling on that -Yeah. 845 00:42:54,300 --> 00:42:55,420 -for centuries, right? -Yeah. 846 00:42:55,460 --> 00:42:57,340 -So if you go this way it's the road -Yeah. 847 00:42:57,380 --> 00:42:59,080 -to Srinagar, Kashmir. -Right. 848 00:42:59,120 --> 00:43:00,320 That way is Kargil, 849 00:43:00,360 --> 00:43:03,200 -and this is to Skardu. -Yeah. Right! 850 00:43:03,240 --> 00:43:05,080 This road is a bit terrifying, isn't it? 851 00:43:05,120 --> 00:43:07,300 Yeah, it is. It's going to become more and more scary. 852 00:43:07,340 --> 00:43:09,420 Oh, really? We might have to sit down in a minute. 853 00:43:11,040 --> 00:43:13,380 -Is he a good driver? -Yeah he's a perfect driver. 854 00:43:13,420 --> 00:43:14,440 -Safe driver? -Yeah. 855 00:43:14,480 --> 00:43:17,220 A few years ago, I had a very bad accident. 856 00:43:17,260 --> 00:43:19,180 -Really? -On roads like this. 857 00:43:19,220 --> 00:43:21,320 I was in a taxi and the taxi went off the edge. 858 00:43:21,360 --> 00:43:22,120 Yeah. 859 00:43:22,160 --> 00:43:24,080 -And like... yeah, like. -Wow! 860 00:43:24,120 --> 00:43:25,360 Hundreds of metres! 861 00:43:25,400 --> 00:43:27,320 -How are you still alive? -I don't know. 862 00:43:27,420 --> 00:43:28,340 But I am. 863 00:43:28,380 --> 00:43:31,380 So whenever I go in these vehicles, on these roads, I'm just... 864 00:43:33,020 --> 00:43:35,060 -Well, you're lucky. -Yeah. 865 00:43:46,180 --> 00:43:48,460 The next morning we're with Muzammil in Dras 866 00:43:49,000 --> 00:43:51,180 one of the coldest inhabited places on earth. 867 00:43:51,220 --> 00:43:52,440 And we're hoping to catch a glimpse of the 868 00:43:52,480 --> 00:43:56,320 elusive and critically endangered, Himalayan Brown Bear. 869 00:43:57,300 --> 00:44:00,120 So, how many bears would you have in this area? 870 00:44:00,160 --> 00:44:01,400 I'm guessing around like... 871 00:44:02,260 --> 00:44:03,480 -Twenty, twenty-five. -Okay. 872 00:44:04,020 --> 00:44:06,140 And first thing in the morning is the best time to see them? 873 00:44:06,180 --> 00:44:08,400 Yeah, because that's when they're most active in the morning. 874 00:44:08,440 --> 00:44:12,340 In fact, we're like very close to one of the main habitat ranges 875 00:44:12,380 --> 00:44:14,020 -of the Himalayan Brown Bears, -Right. 876 00:44:14,060 --> 00:44:16,120 -in the Deosai Plains. -Yeah, yeah, yeah. 877 00:44:16,460 --> 00:44:18,240 And do they travel that far? 878 00:44:18,280 --> 00:44:20,120 Males come down during the mating season. 879 00:44:20,160 --> 00:44:20,400 Yeah. 880 00:44:20,440 --> 00:44:23,220 So I'm presuming they probably come down from across the border. 881 00:44:23,260 --> 00:44:25,300 -Right. -From Deosai. 882 00:44:26,140 --> 00:44:28,140 Oh, this is going to be tough. 883 00:44:33,360 --> 00:44:36,440 The brown bear's habitat stretches from Dras to Skardu. 884 00:44:37,160 --> 00:44:39,120 These gentle giants know no borders 885 00:44:39,160 --> 00:44:42,240 and unlike us can move across the Line of Control at will. 886 00:44:43,100 --> 00:44:46,280 Muzammil's team has spotted a family of bears this morning, 887 00:44:46,320 --> 00:44:49,380 so we're hot on their paws, hoping for a sighting. 888 00:44:49,420 --> 00:44:54,120 There's something moving up there and it's a mum, with two babies. 889 00:44:54,240 --> 00:44:55,140 Oh, wow! 890 00:44:55,180 --> 00:44:56,300 -Now, they're on the ridge. -Silhouette. 891 00:44:56,340 --> 00:44:57,460 Now, they're on the ridge. 892 00:44:59,320 --> 00:45:00,480 That's amazing! 893 00:45:01,460 --> 00:45:06,040 Now, to actually see them suddenly pop up so clearly. 894 00:45:06,080 --> 00:45:07,340 It's just remarkable! 895 00:45:07,380 --> 00:45:10,020 You can see them from here without using the binoculars. 896 00:45:10,060 --> 00:45:12,200 Yeah, they're going to go right to the top, aren't they? 897 00:45:16,080 --> 00:45:18,440 The cub is almost like an albino. You know... 898 00:45:18,480 --> 00:45:20,120 It's for almost four years, 899 00:45:20,160 --> 00:45:23,020 they are just being trained under the mother. 900 00:45:26,460 --> 00:45:28,220 So, they're going up and over the ridge now? 901 00:45:28,260 --> 00:45:30,200 Yeah, yeah, I think they will cross over. 902 00:45:31,080 --> 00:45:32,100 They are going. 903 00:45:33,080 --> 00:45:35,100 -Pretty fast, now. -Yeah. 904 00:45:35,280 --> 00:45:36,480 -Great job! -Well done, mate. 905 00:45:37,020 --> 00:45:37,480 Well done, team. 906 00:45:38,020 --> 00:45:40,220 After a successful morning bear spotting, 907 00:45:40,260 --> 00:45:41,480 we hit the road. 908 00:45:42,040 --> 00:45:46,060 Leaving Ladakh we head towards the Gateway to Kashmir 909 00:45:46,100 --> 00:45:47,220 Zoji La. 910 00:45:51,300 --> 00:45:55,240 This is the border between Ladakh and Kashmir. 911 00:45:55,280 --> 00:45:58,220 As you can see, pretty snowy all around. 912 00:46:00,420 --> 00:46:03,160 And yeah, just trying to flag down a lift. 913 00:46:05,480 --> 00:46:07,140 This guy is going pretty slowly. 914 00:46:07,180 --> 00:46:09,320 Hopefully, he's going slow enough to stop for us. 915 00:46:12,420 --> 00:46:15,100 -Are you going towards Srinagar? -Srinagar? 916 00:46:15,140 --> 00:46:16,120 Yeah? 917 00:46:16,380 --> 00:46:18,180 Looks like we got ourselves a ride! 918 00:46:20,040 --> 00:46:21,220 Pass you the camera, mate. 919 00:46:25,200 --> 00:46:27,460 -Hi, sir. -Thanks for taking us up, mate. 920 00:46:28,000 --> 00:46:32,260 So, we're just going close to the top of the Zoji La Pass. 921 00:46:33,120 --> 00:46:35,480 I think this is basically the dividing line between 922 00:46:36,020 --> 00:46:40,040 Ladakh and Kashmir and it feels so different already. 923 00:46:40,080 --> 00:46:40,480 Wow. 924 00:46:41,020 --> 00:46:42,320 Got enough room there, Ash? 925 00:46:43,200 --> 00:46:44,260 Yeah, it's very cosy. 926 00:46:44,300 --> 00:46:48,060 There's like a lovely, like, a day bed. 927 00:46:50,240 --> 00:46:52,280 -You comfy? -Very comfy. 928 00:46:55,380 --> 00:46:57,100 There it is, the zero point. 929 00:46:57,140 --> 00:46:58,460 That is the middle. 930 00:46:59,000 --> 00:47:01,040 So now, we're in Kashmir. 931 00:47:01,080 --> 00:47:02,480 Yeah, this is Kashmir. 932 00:47:03,020 --> 00:47:06,260 We decide to jump off and walk our way into Kashmir. 933 00:47:06,300 --> 00:47:08,180 Okay, stop there. We're going to jump out. 934 00:47:08,220 --> 00:47:10,020 -Okay. -Thank you. 935 00:47:16,300 --> 00:47:18,240 -Bye! -Bye! 936 00:47:19,420 --> 00:47:22,120 Now, we're up here and we're leaving Ladakh... 937 00:47:22,160 --> 00:47:24,460 heading into Kashmir, and that's like a real... 938 00:47:25,240 --> 00:47:27,220 bridging point in our journey. Your turn. 939 00:47:27,260 --> 00:47:30,220 I think this is a nice way to say goodbye to Ladakh... 940 00:47:31,480 --> 00:47:32,440 like Jenga. 941 00:47:34,180 --> 00:47:35,120 One more. 942 00:47:36,180 --> 00:47:37,400 Phase one of the journey over. 943 00:47:37,440 --> 00:47:39,020 -Yeah... -Onward. 944 00:47:39,060 --> 00:47:40,160 ...into Kashmir. 945 00:47:40,200 --> 00:47:42,200 Subtitle Caption by ZestCorp