1 00:00:10,480 --> 00:00:14,300 In the far reaches of Northwestern India and Pakistan. 2 00:00:14,460 --> 00:00:18,260 On the high plateaus surrounded by mountains and rivers. 3 00:00:20,120 --> 00:00:23,100 A rich tapestry of community and culture 4 00:00:23,160 --> 00:00:25,220 have co-existed for centuries. 5 00:00:27,380 --> 00:00:32,400 Once one country, they are now neighbours separated by a border. 6 00:00:36,460 --> 00:00:38,160 I'm Levison Wood 7 00:00:38,480 --> 00:00:40,340 and this is Ash Bhardwaj. 8 00:00:40,480 --> 00:00:43,280 We're explorers and life-long friends, 9 00:00:43,400 --> 00:00:46,140 who have travelled to the far corners of the globe, 10 00:00:46,220 --> 00:00:48,040 from Sudan to the Himalayas. 11 00:00:48,340 --> 00:00:51,480 We are on a 2500-kilometre adventure. 12 00:00:52,020 --> 00:00:53,220 Starting our journey 13 00:00:53,260 --> 00:00:56,060 from the border villages in northwestern Ladakh. 14 00:00:56,140 --> 00:00:57,020 Oh, yeah. 15 00:00:58,000 --> 00:01:01,020 We'll use the Line of Control as our roadmap, 16 00:01:01,120 --> 00:01:03,140 heading south through one of the coldest 17 00:01:03,180 --> 00:01:05,040 inhabited places on Earth. 18 00:01:05,080 --> 00:01:07,220 It's absolutely freezing up here. 19 00:01:07,300 --> 00:01:10,340 Travelling through the stunning valleys of Kashmir. 20 00:01:10,380 --> 00:01:13,360 It's almost like the Shangri-La of India. 21 00:01:14,220 --> 00:01:16,220 And then into Punjab. 22 00:01:16,260 --> 00:01:18,300 (ALL) "Sat Sri Akaal!" 23 00:01:18,340 --> 00:01:21,220 Before crossing into Pakistan at Wagah. 24 00:01:22,120 --> 00:01:23,000 Ready? 25 00:01:25,060 --> 00:01:26,100 I can't hear anything. 26 00:01:27,280 --> 00:01:28,340 Welcome to Pakistan. 27 00:01:30,380 --> 00:01:34,080 Our journey will end in the village of Fraono, 28 00:01:34,220 --> 00:01:36,020 on the other side of the border. 29 00:01:36,320 --> 00:01:39,380 We'll bear witness to how the border has divided lives 30 00:01:40,120 --> 00:01:42,300 but where hope of a reunion still lives. 31 00:01:43,240 --> 00:01:45,140 We'll navigate dangerous terrain. 32 00:01:46,080 --> 00:01:48,160 Keep going! Keep going! Keep going! 33 00:01:49,300 --> 00:01:52,480 Cross into uncharted territory and enter frontier towns. 34 00:01:53,020 --> 00:01:54,360 A lot of military movements up there. 35 00:01:54,480 --> 00:01:56,100 Not necessarily a good look. 36 00:01:56,140 --> 00:01:58,180 That is all Taliban territory. 37 00:01:58,220 --> 00:01:59,460 (SHOOTING) 38 00:02:01,280 --> 00:02:03,300 We're heading off the beaten path 39 00:02:03,380 --> 00:02:05,380 on an expedition of a lifetime. 40 00:02:15,140 --> 00:02:16,260 -You're going towards Srinagar? -Srinagar? 41 00:02:16,300 --> 00:02:17,420 You're going to Islamabad? 42 00:02:31,120 --> 00:02:35,400 So far, we have travelled through Ladakh from Tyakshi to Zoji La Pass. 43 00:02:36,100 --> 00:02:38,380 And now, we're on the next part of our journey, 44 00:02:38,420 --> 00:02:41,200 which will take us deep into northern Kashmir. 45 00:02:41,240 --> 00:02:43,420 This is certainly a region that really is very much on the 46 00:02:44,220 --> 00:02:45,260 edge of India. 47 00:02:45,300 --> 00:02:47,000 So, this is the last 48 00:02:47,060 --> 00:02:48,260 -bridge in India? -Last bridge in India. 49 00:02:48,420 --> 00:02:50,120 What are you looking at? 50 00:02:50,300 --> 00:02:52,480 I was looking at my relatives. 51 00:02:53,020 --> 00:02:53,380 Keep going! 52 00:02:54,400 --> 00:02:55,320 Welcome to Kashmir. 53 00:02:55,360 --> 00:02:56,460 -Thank you. -Thank you. 54 00:02:57,320 --> 00:03:01,080 This area used to be the militants base. 55 00:03:04,160 --> 00:03:05,440 So, it's a bomb shelter! 56 00:03:07,360 --> 00:03:08,440 Yeah, it's terrifying! 57 00:03:18,020 --> 00:03:19,480 So, we have crossed over into Kashmir. 58 00:03:20,220 --> 00:03:22,240 And we can already feel how much warmer it is. 59 00:03:22,280 --> 00:03:24,440 There's trees on the slopes, we didn't have any of that 60 00:03:25,000 --> 00:03:25,360 on the other side. 61 00:03:26,040 --> 00:03:28,120 One of the dangers is, because it's warmer. 62 00:03:28,460 --> 00:03:31,020 There is more snow melt, there is more rock slides 63 00:03:31,060 --> 00:03:32,200 ones come down on the road. 64 00:03:32,320 --> 00:03:34,140 -Is the road blocked? -Yeah. 65 00:03:34,280 --> 00:03:35,240 Ten minutes only. 66 00:03:35,340 --> 00:03:36,260 -Ten minutes? -Sure. 67 00:03:36,300 --> 00:03:37,320 I don't believe him. 68 00:03:37,400 --> 00:03:39,480 We have been standing here for 69 00:03:40,160 --> 00:03:42,320 probably a couple of hours now and 70 00:03:43,120 --> 00:03:45,460 yeah, tried to hitch a lift but 71 00:03:46,180 --> 00:03:48,040 it's just a complete traffic jam. 72 00:03:53,320 --> 00:03:55,280 There's still a guy up there. 73 00:03:55,320 --> 00:03:57,260 You can see a digger on the cliff 74 00:03:57,400 --> 00:03:59,340 pushing some of this dangerous rock away. 75 00:04:00,060 --> 00:04:01,160 But it's still falling down. 76 00:04:01,200 --> 00:04:03,180 So, I think we might not be able to get through, Lev. 77 00:04:03,220 --> 00:04:04,420 Yeah, there is no way any cars are going to get through there 78 00:04:04,460 --> 00:04:06,020 anytime soon. 79 00:04:06,160 --> 00:04:08,080 It will take at least two hours. 80 00:04:08,120 --> 00:04:09,360 -Two more hours? -Yes. 81 00:04:10,060 --> 00:04:11,120 -Two hours more! -Two hours. 82 00:04:12,260 --> 00:04:14,360 We've taken our first steps into Kashmir 83 00:04:14,480 --> 00:04:16,140 and already hit a roadblock. 84 00:04:16,320 --> 00:04:18,320 Just not the kind we were expecting. 85 00:04:19,360 --> 00:04:21,320 So, they've actually said they are going to stop 86 00:04:21,360 --> 00:04:22,460 the digging for a second 87 00:04:23,000 --> 00:04:25,440 and let us run across the boulder field. 88 00:04:25,480 --> 00:04:26,400 -Yeah. -Shall we? 89 00:04:26,440 --> 00:04:27,480 -Hurry up! -Okay. 90 00:04:28,040 --> 00:04:29,280 Fine, let's go. 91 00:04:30,020 --> 00:04:30,480 Careful, Ash! 92 00:04:39,320 --> 00:04:40,360 Keep going, run. 93 00:04:42,180 --> 00:04:43,380 Don't sprain anything. 94 00:04:49,360 --> 00:04:53,420 Sprinting through a crumbling rubble field 95 00:04:54,000 --> 00:04:56,420 in altitude is not what I planned today. 96 00:05:02,460 --> 00:05:03,460 Okay. 97 00:05:04,120 --> 00:05:06,200 We've still got to make it all the way to the bottom. 98 00:05:07,240 --> 00:05:10,080 There's a couple of bends, and obviously, 99 00:05:10,120 --> 00:05:12,020 those rocks don't just stop there. 100 00:05:12,220 --> 00:05:15,160 So, there are a couple more danger areas still to go. 101 00:05:18,000 --> 00:05:19,380 Incredible power of nature? 102 00:05:25,200 --> 00:05:27,040 All right? Can we go? 103 00:05:28,360 --> 00:05:31,060 I think we've got to follow behind the digger. 104 00:05:31,100 --> 00:05:32,340 He's going to go and clear the road. 105 00:05:33,000 --> 00:05:36,060 And this is this is the final hurdle. 106 00:05:49,220 --> 00:05:52,480 Keep going! Keep going! Keep going! 107 00:06:02,020 --> 00:06:03,080 Thank you! 108 00:06:06,000 --> 00:06:08,300 Kashmiri poplar trees line the roads 109 00:06:08,340 --> 00:06:11,340 as we head out this misty, rainy morning to Teetwal. 110 00:06:12,100 --> 00:06:15,020 A village on the northwest frontier of Kashmir. 111 00:06:15,240 --> 00:06:19,300 Teetwal is 250 kilometres away from the Zoji La Pass 112 00:06:19,440 --> 00:06:22,120 and we're trying to get there before sundown. 113 00:06:22,200 --> 00:06:25,100 By the time we reach a small town called Sopore. 114 00:06:25,280 --> 00:06:27,440 It's overcast and our progress is slow. 115 00:06:28,340 --> 00:06:29,340 We need a ride 116 00:06:30,040 --> 00:06:32,460 and the only vehicle we could find is a cattle truck. 117 00:06:33,440 --> 00:06:35,460 There's not much space in the front, so Lev's up on the back. 118 00:06:37,060 --> 00:06:37,440 Yeah! 119 00:06:38,160 --> 00:06:39,480 How are you? Salaam-Alaikum. 120 00:06:40,020 --> 00:06:42,120 -I'm doing great. How about you? -What's your name? 121 00:06:42,160 --> 00:06:43,420 Sir, my name is Farooq Ahmed. 122 00:06:43,460 --> 00:06:45,220 -Sarfa? -Farooq, farooq. 123 00:06:45,260 --> 00:06:46,040 Farooq! 124 00:06:46,180 --> 00:06:47,160 How you doing, Ash? 125 00:06:49,180 --> 00:06:50,300 How are the cows? 126 00:06:50,340 --> 00:06:53,140 I think the cows are all right, pretty packed up here. 127 00:06:53,180 --> 00:06:54,140 Not much room. 128 00:06:55,420 --> 00:06:59,080 Determined to make it to Teetwal by any means possible, 129 00:06:59,180 --> 00:07:03,060 Farooq's cattle truck gives us a chance to travel like the locals. 130 00:07:03,260 --> 00:07:05,320 Is it dangerous with the electrics? 131 00:07:06,200 --> 00:07:08,040 -Electricity? -Very dangerous. 132 00:07:08,080 --> 00:07:10,080 Very dangerous, yeah, I can see that. 133 00:07:11,420 --> 00:07:13,160 Turn left, turn left! 134 00:07:14,040 --> 00:07:16,320 -How are the cowboys? -How are the cowboys? 135 00:07:17,100 --> 00:07:19,360 Everyone seems fine up here. 136 00:07:21,000 --> 00:07:24,040 They are a bit concerned about our onward journey to Pakistan. 137 00:07:24,080 --> 00:07:26,060 -They say it's very dangerous. -Oh, okay. 138 00:07:26,100 --> 00:07:28,380 I don't think it's as dangerous as this cattle truck, though. 139 00:07:30,160 --> 00:07:33,060 -Teetwal is close to Pakistan, yes? -Yes. 140 00:07:33,140 --> 00:07:33,460 Very close. 141 00:07:35,000 --> 00:07:37,060 I wasn't expecting a hitchhike to be 142 00:07:37,120 --> 00:07:39,420 the most dangerous thing about Kashmir so far 143 00:07:40,100 --> 00:07:41,440 and after one hour of driving 144 00:07:41,480 --> 00:07:45,020 we think it's time to pursue a safer form of travel. 145 00:07:45,480 --> 00:07:48,480 -Yeah, this is where we stop! -Okay, thank you very much. 146 00:07:49,160 --> 00:07:50,360 -Very good driving. -Okay, okay sir. 147 00:07:50,400 --> 00:07:51,440 Very good driving. 148 00:07:55,300 --> 00:07:56,440 -Sorry, mate -It's all right. 149 00:07:56,480 --> 00:07:58,140 You've got a boot in my face. 150 00:07:58,180 --> 00:08:00,440 Probably better than a power line in the face? 151 00:08:01,000 --> 00:08:03,020 -How was that? -Well, that was quite the ride! 152 00:08:03,280 --> 00:08:05,320 I think it's my turn to go on the inside next time. 153 00:08:05,360 --> 00:08:06,240 I think so. 154 00:08:07,480 --> 00:08:10,000 We're closing in on the Line of Control 155 00:08:11,020 --> 00:08:13,260 climbing higher past the remote Sadhna Pass 156 00:08:14,140 --> 00:08:17,300 the only road connecting Teetwal to the rest of Kashmir. 157 00:08:18,440 --> 00:08:23,060 This is the northwestern reaches of Kashmir 158 00:08:23,240 --> 00:08:26,180 heading right up into the Line of Control. 159 00:08:26,220 --> 00:08:28,380 On the other side of that is Pakistani-occupied Kashmir. 160 00:08:29,140 --> 00:08:32,060 So, this is certainly a region that really is very much on the 161 00:08:32,240 --> 00:08:34,260 edge of India and... 162 00:08:35,080 --> 00:08:37,020 It feels like a frontier as well. Doesn't it? 163 00:08:37,060 --> 00:08:38,120 Yeah, it really does. 164 00:08:39,100 --> 00:08:41,180 We're on our own in the Karnah Valley, 165 00:08:41,220 --> 00:08:42,480 way off the beaten track. 166 00:08:44,420 --> 00:08:47,020 There's barely a sign of civilisation. 167 00:08:50,000 --> 00:08:52,000 There's a lot of military movements up there. 168 00:08:52,320 --> 00:08:55,320 Yeah, it's better for us if we kind of stay off the road a bit. 169 00:08:55,360 --> 00:08:57,140 So we're not attracting, too much attention. 170 00:08:57,180 --> 00:09:00,320 Because even though we're not doing anything wrong, you know 171 00:09:01,180 --> 00:09:03,060 two guys just wandering around in the woods 172 00:09:03,100 --> 00:09:04,260 near the Line of Control is 173 00:09:04,420 --> 00:09:06,440 not necessarily a good look, so 174 00:09:08,100 --> 00:09:10,120 not sure if we'd be detained and 175 00:09:10,220 --> 00:09:12,220 questioned for hours and we'd lose time. 176 00:09:12,260 --> 00:09:14,400 So we're just trying to sort of stay low. 177 00:09:22,100 --> 00:09:23,320 Saved ourselves a... 178 00:09:23,480 --> 00:09:26,000 -good mile, I'd say. -Yeah, yeah. 179 00:09:26,060 --> 00:09:27,420 -Worth it? -Yeah, I think it was worth it. 180 00:09:28,460 --> 00:09:29,400 Onwards! 181 00:09:35,420 --> 00:09:39,160 We pick up the pace and manage to make it to Teetwal before sunset. 182 00:09:39,360 --> 00:09:41,300 It's a little hot, but we're relieved 183 00:09:41,340 --> 00:09:42,420 to get here in daylight. 184 00:09:43,280 --> 00:09:45,060 Model village Teetwal. 185 00:09:45,280 --> 00:09:47,040 -This is the place. Isn't it? -Yeah. 186 00:09:47,140 --> 00:09:50,020 Now, we've been through a few checkpoints and things but... 187 00:09:50,340 --> 00:09:52,160 there's a noticeable... 188 00:09:52,440 --> 00:09:55,280 absence of any military or anything like here, isn't there? 189 00:09:55,320 --> 00:10:00,000 I suppose the last thing you want is two nations' armies 190 00:10:00,280 --> 00:10:02,120 right facing each other. 191 00:10:02,160 --> 00:10:05,040 It's good to have that buffer zone, isn't it? 192 00:10:05,140 --> 00:10:07,460 But it means these people that live in this village are... 193 00:10:08,120 --> 00:10:10,260 very much, you know, on that front line. 194 00:10:10,300 --> 00:10:11,160 This is the... 195 00:10:11,200 --> 00:10:13,220 -Line of Control right here. -This is the frontline 196 00:10:13,260 --> 00:10:14,200 Yeah. 197 00:10:16,260 --> 00:10:18,200 -Salaam-Alaikum. -Wa-Alaikum-Salaam. 198 00:10:18,240 --> 00:10:21,200 Rameez is a teacher, a hardware shop owner 199 00:10:21,260 --> 00:10:22,340 and our local host. 200 00:10:22,480 --> 00:10:25,460 At 32, he's part of the younger generation 201 00:10:26,080 --> 00:10:28,080 who has built a life in this border village. 202 00:10:28,340 --> 00:10:31,280 -How many people live in this town? -This village? 203 00:10:31,440 --> 00:10:34,260 -Two hundred families living here. -Two hundred families. 204 00:10:35,080 --> 00:10:36,300 We can hear the call to prayer. 205 00:10:37,040 --> 00:10:39,100 It's from this side and the other side? 206 00:10:39,140 --> 00:10:39,380 Both. 207 00:10:39,420 --> 00:10:40,300 -Same time? -Both time. 208 00:10:40,360 --> 00:10:41,180 Same time. 209 00:10:42,060 --> 00:10:44,440 It's so strange must to be so close. 210 00:10:44,480 --> 00:10:46,020 So close. 211 00:10:47,100 --> 00:10:49,260 And do you have many friends on the other side? 212 00:10:50,020 --> 00:10:52,100 I have also my relatives are living there. 213 00:10:52,140 --> 00:10:53,280 -Your relatives? -Really? 214 00:10:53,320 --> 00:10:55,220 How do you communicate with them? 215 00:10:55,440 --> 00:10:58,320 -Through loudspeaker. Yeah. -Really? 216 00:10:59,260 --> 00:11:02,200 -Really? You shout across? -That's amazing. 217 00:11:02,260 --> 00:11:05,020 When somebody passes away... 218 00:11:05,080 --> 00:11:05,480 -Yeah. -Yeah. 219 00:11:06,020 --> 00:11:07,220 In the village, we announce 220 00:11:07,260 --> 00:11:09,360 on the loudspeaker to convey to them. 221 00:11:10,060 --> 00:11:12,080 Oh, really? And what happens when you have, like, 222 00:11:12,120 --> 00:11:14,120 -a joint funeral across the river? -They come... 223 00:11:14,340 --> 00:11:16,100 -They come to -The other side, 224 00:11:16,140 --> 00:11:17,140 -Really? -You see. 225 00:11:17,180 --> 00:11:18,140 Wow. 226 00:11:18,300 --> 00:11:21,140 Rameez tells us about the Teetwal crossing bridge 227 00:11:21,180 --> 00:11:22,440 which connects both sides. 228 00:11:23,180 --> 00:11:27,340 It spans the Kishanganga river and has been shut since 2018, 229 00:11:27,400 --> 00:11:30,420 due to increased tensions between India and Pakistan. 230 00:11:32,180 --> 00:11:33,020 Sir! 231 00:11:35,240 --> 00:11:37,440 Well. Rameez has just gone to go and ask the security guard 232 00:11:37,480 --> 00:11:39,380 as to whether we can go and actually... 233 00:11:39,460 --> 00:11:42,440 go and see the bridge but I don't know what the chances are. 234 00:11:42,480 --> 00:11:45,400 I mean, this is as close as you can possibly get to 235 00:11:45,480 --> 00:11:48,280 you know, you can literally see the flags just there. 236 00:11:49,380 --> 00:11:52,420 Once Chilhana, the settlement across the river 237 00:11:52,460 --> 00:11:55,000 and Teetwal were one village. 238 00:11:55,420 --> 00:11:57,420 And Teetwal was a trading hub. 239 00:11:58,060 --> 00:12:02,040 Today, the two villages sit divided by the Kishanganga 240 00:12:02,140 --> 00:12:04,220 which acts as the Line of Control. 241 00:12:05,340 --> 00:12:08,000 He told me that shooting is not allowed here. 242 00:12:08,040 --> 00:12:08,360 Okay. 243 00:12:08,400 --> 00:12:09,460 -If you want to go there, -Can we go 244 00:12:10,000 --> 00:12:11,200 -without camera. -and see it anyway? 245 00:12:11,240 --> 00:12:14,160 -Yeah, yeah, yeah. -Then you can easily go there. 246 00:12:14,220 --> 00:12:16,200 Yeah, yeah, fine. Okay, we can go down. 247 00:12:16,240 --> 00:12:18,260 -You got to stay there. -Yeah. Come with me 248 00:12:18,300 --> 00:12:19,480 -Sir! -See you in a bit, guys. 249 00:12:22,000 --> 00:12:23,240 Don't go that side, just until here. 250 00:12:23,280 --> 00:12:25,280 Yes, we're just going to have a look at the bridge and come back. 251 00:12:25,320 --> 00:12:28,220 -Hello, sir. -Hello, Salaam-Alaikum. 252 00:12:28,280 --> 00:12:29,480 -Greeting. -Greeting. 253 00:12:31,060 --> 00:12:32,320 We are under surveillance. 254 00:12:33,000 --> 00:12:33,400 Yeah. 255 00:12:36,000 --> 00:12:37,400 The soldiers, do they speak Urdu or... 256 00:12:38,000 --> 00:12:39,360 -like Kashmiri? -They speak Punjabi. 257 00:12:39,420 --> 00:12:41,020 -Punjabi? -Yeah? 258 00:12:41,100 --> 00:12:43,080 -Pashto... -Pashto, yeah. 259 00:12:43,440 --> 00:12:45,060 -Yeah, I think they speak -They belong... 260 00:12:45,100 --> 00:12:46,440 enough languages to be able to communicate 261 00:12:46,480 --> 00:12:48,100 with each other, I'm sure. 262 00:12:54,380 --> 00:12:57,100 This bridge is one of the five crossing points 263 00:12:57,140 --> 00:12:58,360 along the Line of Control 264 00:12:58,400 --> 00:13:02,180 that India and Pakistan had opened in 2005 265 00:13:02,220 --> 00:13:05,460 to allow separated families to visit each other. 266 00:13:06,120 --> 00:13:08,380 We're lucky we got a chance to see it up close. 267 00:13:09,040 --> 00:13:12,080 And what year did the separation happen? 268 00:13:12,280 --> 00:13:14,200 The separation between that side and this side. 269 00:13:14,260 --> 00:13:15,240 When... 270 00:13:16,340 --> 00:13:19,360 we got free from... 271 00:13:21,240 --> 00:13:22,420 -Did you hear that, Lev? -What'd he say? 272 00:13:22,460 --> 00:13:24,300 He said, "When we got free from..." 273 00:13:26,080 --> 00:13:27,120 Britisher! 274 00:13:31,380 --> 00:13:32,420 Your bloody lot. 275 00:13:33,140 --> 00:13:34,080 My bloody lot. 276 00:13:34,120 --> 00:13:35,240 1947. 277 00:13:36,020 --> 00:13:37,340 1947, yeah. 278 00:13:41,120 --> 00:13:42,420 Hello! Give them a wave! 279 00:13:44,180 --> 00:13:47,220 -They are friendly? -Yeah, they are shaking hands. 280 00:13:49,060 --> 00:13:50,400 It's a beautiful place. 281 00:13:53,280 --> 00:13:56,140 Rameez introduces us to Abdul Rashid, 282 00:13:56,180 --> 00:13:59,100 the village headman and a writer born before Partition. 283 00:13:59,340 --> 00:14:01,200 I'm doing good, by the grace of God. 284 00:14:01,300 --> 00:14:03,260 See that tank house near the border? 285 00:14:03,300 --> 00:14:04,260 Yeah. 286 00:14:04,380 --> 00:14:06,200 That's where my cousin brother lives. 287 00:14:06,240 --> 00:14:08,260 -Your cousin brother? -Yes. 288 00:14:08,360 --> 00:14:11,440 And that other one is my cousin sister's house. 289 00:14:12,000 --> 00:14:13,420 And you speak to them? You talk to them? 290 00:14:13,460 --> 00:14:16,160 I went in 2008 on a LOC permit. 291 00:14:16,380 --> 00:14:19,220 So from 1947 to 2008... 292 00:14:19,280 --> 00:14:20,280 -You've never met -Yes. 293 00:14:20,320 --> 00:14:22,260 -your relatives? -No, no, no never, never. 294 00:14:22,320 --> 00:14:24,380 How did that feel when you went in 2008? 295 00:14:24,420 --> 00:14:27,340 How did you feel when you finally met them? 296 00:14:28,040 --> 00:14:31,140 It felt like a new kind of happiness found me, 297 00:14:32,060 --> 00:14:33,480 as if a new bond was created altogether. 298 00:14:34,200 --> 00:14:36,320 When you're living here, does it ever feel dangerous 299 00:14:36,360 --> 00:14:38,480 to be so close to the Line of Control? 300 00:14:39,260 --> 00:14:42,400 Look, war is no solution to an issue. 301 00:14:43,020 --> 00:14:45,180 The people living on the borders of both sides... 302 00:14:45,420 --> 00:14:48,180 they want there to be peace. 303 00:14:49,020 --> 00:14:51,320 They want peace. They want to meet each other. 304 00:14:52,160 --> 00:14:54,360 And they request both the governments 305 00:14:54,400 --> 00:14:57,060 -of India and Pakistan... -Yeah. 306 00:14:57,100 --> 00:14:59,400 That open the crossing point 307 00:15:00,040 --> 00:15:02,160 -once again we will meet each other. -Yeah, yeah. 308 00:15:02,220 --> 00:15:04,440 Do you think it will be open soon? One day soon? 309 00:15:05,260 --> 00:15:07,200 -We hope so. -You hope so, yeah. 310 00:15:07,240 --> 00:15:08,320 Can I? 311 00:15:09,040 --> 00:15:10,280 Yeah, yeah. Please have a look. 312 00:15:11,240 --> 00:15:12,440 He knows, he uses. 313 00:15:17,300 --> 00:15:19,080 What are you looking at? 314 00:15:19,280 --> 00:15:21,000 What are you looking at? 315 00:15:21,180 --> 00:15:23,460 I was looking at my relatives. 316 00:15:24,140 --> 00:15:26,460 You're looking at your relatives. You were spying on them? 317 00:15:27,220 --> 00:15:28,260 From there, they are seeing. 318 00:15:28,300 --> 00:15:29,300 When the bridge was open, 319 00:15:29,360 --> 00:15:31,240 the villagers could meet their relatives 320 00:15:31,280 --> 00:15:33,140 and even stay over on the other side. 321 00:15:34,040 --> 00:15:36,340 But such reunions only lasted for 13 years 322 00:15:37,040 --> 00:15:38,340 before the bridge was closed. 323 00:15:40,080 --> 00:15:42,360 -He says, "where from he?" -From here! 324 00:15:43,080 --> 00:15:45,060 -Where from? -Where from? Oh, London, London. 325 00:15:45,100 --> 00:15:47,260 -London? Britannia? -Britannia, yes. 326 00:15:47,300 --> 00:15:49,180 See, the 327 00:15:50,280 --> 00:15:54,360 British rule in India, right? 328 00:15:54,400 --> 00:15:56,180 So, when they left 329 00:15:57,220 --> 00:15:59,020 they divided us in two parts. 330 00:15:59,100 --> 00:16:01,160 Tell them to reunite both the parties. 331 00:16:01,360 --> 00:16:03,200 Why did they make us fight and leave? 332 00:16:03,340 --> 00:16:04,260 Yeah, I understand... 333 00:16:04,300 --> 00:16:06,140 Rashid's question hits home. 334 00:16:06,380 --> 00:16:08,200 It's a very real reminder 335 00:16:08,260 --> 00:16:11,200 of how a line drawn on the map 75 years ago 336 00:16:11,340 --> 00:16:13,100 changed lives forever. 337 00:16:13,140 --> 00:16:14,180 Thank you. 338 00:16:18,460 --> 00:16:20,420 Oh, look, people are playing on the green. 339 00:16:21,180 --> 00:16:23,300 -Yeah. -Badminton, cricket. 340 00:16:25,100 --> 00:16:27,280 -Shaan-e-Tithwal Stadium. -Stadium. 341 00:16:28,160 --> 00:16:30,240 Do you want to see if we can join in? Shall we? 342 00:16:30,300 --> 00:16:31,160 Yeah! 343 00:16:32,220 --> 00:16:34,140 One positive thing the British gave to 344 00:16:34,180 --> 00:16:36,240 the subcontinent was cricket. 345 00:16:38,040 --> 00:16:42,080 And it continues to be an obsession in India and Pakistan. 346 00:16:43,420 --> 00:16:45,280 Oh, nice! 347 00:16:45,380 --> 00:16:46,280 Come on, Malik. 348 00:16:46,480 --> 00:16:48,460 -They are speeding up. I like it. -Come on. 349 00:16:54,180 --> 00:16:55,460 Wow. What a beautiful shot! 350 00:16:56,460 --> 00:16:59,120 Okay, guys. Let's pile on the pressure now, 351 00:16:59,160 --> 00:17:00,400 let's bring in the catches. 352 00:17:01,160 --> 00:17:05,140 In our latest head to head, things are getting fierce. 353 00:17:05,220 --> 00:17:07,420 Ready? Here he comes. Can't stand anymore. 354 00:17:15,040 --> 00:17:17,060 Oh, slips would've had him! 355 00:17:17,400 --> 00:17:19,420 Would have, could have, but didn't. 356 00:17:21,380 --> 00:17:25,160 Finally, I get the best bowler in Teetwal to give it a go. 357 00:17:25,220 --> 00:17:29,060 Bit of competitive spirit coming out of this one, I think. 358 00:17:29,440 --> 00:17:31,100 Just don't want it straight on the nose. 359 00:17:31,160 --> 00:17:32,220 Here we go. 360 00:17:35,380 --> 00:17:36,380 Get the ball. 361 00:17:37,360 --> 00:17:39,300 Second one. Your turn 362 00:17:39,340 --> 00:17:40,300 Oh, God! 363 00:17:40,420 --> 00:17:42,260 Wish I don't get out on the first ball. 364 00:17:43,140 --> 00:17:44,260 Easy, easy. 365 00:17:44,320 --> 00:17:45,400 "Easy, easy." 366 00:17:47,360 --> 00:17:49,140 Go easy, go easy. Easy. 367 00:17:51,180 --> 00:17:53,280 -Yeah! -He's not even in our game. 368 00:17:55,000 --> 00:17:56,140 You got caught out by somebody 369 00:17:56,180 --> 00:17:58,020 who wasn't even playing in our match. 370 00:17:59,200 --> 00:18:01,140 Well done. Who's the winner? 371 00:18:01,440 --> 00:18:04,460 I think this guy is a better cricketer than this. 372 00:18:07,360 --> 00:18:10,340 -Sorry, Ash. -I'm sorry. I'm sorry. 373 00:18:11,260 --> 00:18:12,160 Thank you very much. 374 00:18:12,200 --> 00:18:13,200 -That was wonderful! -Thank you. 375 00:18:13,240 --> 00:18:14,240 You enjoyed that? 376 00:18:17,180 --> 00:18:23,180 (CALL TO PRAYER) 377 00:18:30,240 --> 00:18:33,220 At Iftar time, we visit Ajaz Khan, 378 00:18:33,260 --> 00:18:36,480 Rameez's uncle, who has invited us to join his family 379 00:18:37,140 --> 00:18:39,360 for the traditional breaking of the Ramadan fast. 380 00:18:40,240 --> 00:18:41,200 So is the date... 381 00:18:41,260 --> 00:18:43,140 are dates usually the first thing you eat, 382 00:18:43,200 --> 00:18:44,260 -for Iftar? -Yes. 383 00:18:44,320 --> 00:18:46,420 -Dates and water, plain water. -Dates and water. 384 00:18:49,080 --> 00:18:50,100 You are from? 385 00:18:50,320 --> 00:18:52,080 I'm from, I'm from London. 386 00:18:53,220 --> 00:18:56,140 -But my family are originally... -But you're not white. 387 00:18:56,360 --> 00:18:57,380 I am not white, no. 388 00:18:59,340 --> 00:19:02,260 -He is originally from London. -I am from "originally" London. 389 00:19:02,420 --> 00:19:05,480 -You are from "original" London? -Yeah, yeah, yeah. 390 00:19:06,040 --> 00:19:07,000 He is white. 391 00:19:07,160 --> 00:19:08,120 He is white. 392 00:19:09,360 --> 00:19:12,180 Fasting is one of the five pillars of Islam. 393 00:19:12,360 --> 00:19:13,420 And during Ramadan, 394 00:19:13,460 --> 00:19:16,400 the meal eaten post sunset is called Iftar. 395 00:19:17,360 --> 00:19:20,180 Being invited for the meal by this local family, 396 00:19:20,280 --> 00:19:24,160 is a mark of the warm hospitality that Kashmir is famous for. 397 00:19:24,420 --> 00:19:27,280 When the bridge was open, did you ever do, 398 00:19:27,480 --> 00:19:30,100 Iftar or Ramadan with your family there? 399 00:19:31,040 --> 00:19:32,380 -You did? -Yeah. 400 00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:36,140 -Did you ever? -Yeah, he also. 401 00:19:36,360 --> 00:19:38,120 -Yeah. -He also had been there 402 00:19:38,260 --> 00:19:40,440 -It was 2013, right? -No, 14... 403 00:19:41,060 --> 00:19:42,360 -Okay, 2014. -2014. 404 00:19:42,400 --> 00:19:43,400 2014. 405 00:19:43,440 --> 00:19:47,080 Why do you think that they want to keep this border closed? 406 00:19:47,200 --> 00:19:50,200 Our government wishes to open the way, the road 407 00:19:50,360 --> 00:19:51,440 right? 408 00:19:52,200 --> 00:19:54,420 But the government on the other side, 409 00:19:55,080 --> 00:19:56,260 the Pakistani Government... 410 00:19:57,100 --> 00:20:00,160 they are not allowing it. I don't know, what's their issue. 411 00:20:02,300 --> 00:20:05,080 Sadly, this seems to be a running thread 412 00:20:05,140 --> 00:20:07,180 for families split across either side. 413 00:20:07,420 --> 00:20:10,420 Their only hope is for these roads and bridges to open, 414 00:20:10,460 --> 00:20:13,020 reuniting them with their loved ones. 415 00:20:13,060 --> 00:20:17,120 (ALL PRAYING) 416 00:20:18,180 --> 00:20:21,180 Well, Teetwal was a really, really long journey 417 00:20:21,220 --> 00:20:24,320 to get here, but worth it. 418 00:20:25,220 --> 00:20:27,480 You know, it's right on the Line of Control 419 00:20:28,060 --> 00:20:29,380 this amazing gorge, 420 00:20:30,000 --> 00:20:32,060 and to be literally a stone's throw away from, 421 00:20:32,200 --> 00:20:34,120 Pakistan-controlled area, 422 00:20:34,160 --> 00:20:37,060 was, you know, just, quite mind blowing, really 423 00:20:37,100 --> 00:20:40,400 to see the Indian flag right next to the Pakistani flag. 424 00:20:42,080 --> 00:20:45,000 You know, it wasn't something that I expected to see 425 00:20:45,040 --> 00:20:46,000 so, so close. 426 00:20:46,080 --> 00:20:49,120 Teetwal was a lovely village. I had a really nice time there. 427 00:20:49,340 --> 00:20:51,460 Great, great fun to play some cricket, 428 00:20:52,320 --> 00:20:54,480 and to hear the stories of the people who had, 429 00:20:56,200 --> 00:20:58,460 finally had the chance to cross the river, 430 00:20:59,120 --> 00:21:01,480 a few years ago to visit their relatives and 431 00:21:02,160 --> 00:21:06,140 sadly for it to be stopped again because of political unrest. 432 00:21:08,140 --> 00:21:11,140 But a stunning place, really great to see it. 433 00:21:15,380 --> 00:21:19,200 A 170 kilometres from Teetwal, we arrive in Srinagar 434 00:21:19,260 --> 00:21:22,180 which Lev and I last visited in 2015. 435 00:21:24,280 --> 00:21:27,380 The Dal Lake, known as the jewel in the crown of Kashmir, 436 00:21:28,060 --> 00:21:31,360 with its distinct way of life, is once again bustling with tourists 437 00:21:32,320 --> 00:21:35,220 despite the heavy military presence throughout the city. 438 00:21:39,320 --> 00:21:43,200 We head to Hazratbal, the holiest Muslim shrine in Kashmir 439 00:21:44,320 --> 00:21:46,480 to meet a man who played a part in the region's 440 00:21:47,020 --> 00:21:49,020 decades-long internal conflict. 441 00:21:50,280 --> 00:21:51,400 Saifullah Farooq 442 00:21:51,440 --> 00:21:54,060 is a former Kashmiri militant commander. 443 00:21:54,240 --> 00:21:57,120 Who was active during the turbulent 1990s. 444 00:22:00,000 --> 00:22:02,120 So, you were trained as a militant in Pakistan? 445 00:22:02,180 --> 00:22:02,480 Yeah. 446 00:22:03,220 --> 00:22:05,380 How many years were you doing that for? 447 00:22:06,320 --> 00:22:08,360 -I went in 1989 -Yeah. 448 00:22:08,480 --> 00:22:10,300 -to Pakistan for my training... -Yeah. 449 00:22:10,340 --> 00:22:11,360 Militant training. 450 00:22:12,060 --> 00:22:14,020 -And I came back in '90. -Yeah. 451 00:22:14,060 --> 00:22:17,320 -Yeah. -And on 7th September 1991 452 00:22:17,380 --> 00:22:19,440 -I was arrested by the Indian Army. -Okay. 453 00:22:19,480 --> 00:22:22,300 So, where did you train in Pakistan? 454 00:22:23,100 --> 00:22:25,240 -I was in PoK, you know? -On the other side. 455 00:22:25,360 --> 00:22:27,180 -The other side of Kashmir. -Okay. 456 00:22:27,220 --> 00:22:29,300 There was a training camp in "Garhi Dupatta" 457 00:22:29,340 --> 00:22:30,280 and "Matchbox Factory" 458 00:22:30,320 --> 00:22:32,360 Pakistani people were also trained there, 459 00:22:33,060 --> 00:22:36,260 and they came with us here, in Kashmir. 460 00:22:36,340 --> 00:22:39,060 So, what kind of things were they teaching you? 461 00:22:39,240 --> 00:22:41,280 I know how to operate an AK-47 assault rifle. 462 00:22:41,420 --> 00:22:44,260 I can target with an AK-47 assault rifle. 463 00:22:45,060 --> 00:22:47,040 I'm trained in operating Light Machine Guns 464 00:22:47,320 --> 00:22:49,020 and throwing Grenades. 465 00:22:49,320 --> 00:22:51,080 Rocket Propelled Grenades, you know? 466 00:22:51,120 --> 00:22:52,480 I've used them too. 467 00:22:54,100 --> 00:22:55,400 What were your missions? 468 00:22:55,440 --> 00:22:57,480 Did you have to go when you were a militant? 469 00:22:58,180 --> 00:23:02,320 Our mission was to fight with Indian... 470 00:23:02,360 --> 00:23:04,000 -Indian soldiers. -Soldiers. 471 00:23:04,260 --> 00:23:06,160 -And you, you did that? -Oh, yeah. 472 00:23:08,220 --> 00:23:11,120 While the market around the mosque now bustles with life 473 00:23:11,320 --> 00:23:14,060 it was once the epicentre of conflict. 474 00:23:15,340 --> 00:23:19,120 Look, this entire area you see here 475 00:23:19,420 --> 00:23:22,000 this used to be the base of the militants. 476 00:23:22,200 --> 00:23:27,060 There used to be thousands of militants here 477 00:23:27,100 --> 00:23:29,040 armed with weapons. 478 00:23:29,260 --> 00:23:32,060 There used to be a community kitchen here, for meals. 479 00:23:32,440 --> 00:23:34,160 Then there was an encounter. 480 00:23:34,200 --> 00:23:36,400 So, they took them behind a house here somewhere... 481 00:23:36,460 --> 00:23:38,000 So, they would have encounters 482 00:23:38,040 --> 00:23:38,360 -here? -Yeah, yeah. 483 00:23:38,420 --> 00:23:40,060 -With the... -Yeah. 484 00:23:40,100 --> 00:23:42,460 So, the militants would be outside the mosque and they would 485 00:23:43,020 --> 00:23:44,380 -fight the Indian Army? Here. -Yeah. 486 00:23:45,120 --> 00:23:46,460 They would fight with Indian forces. 487 00:23:47,260 --> 00:23:49,080 I was also in charge of this area 488 00:23:49,220 --> 00:23:51,220 and I used to stand here with a rifle. 489 00:23:52,100 --> 00:23:53,460 I used to have guns. 490 00:23:54,140 --> 00:23:55,340 What will I ever gain from lying? 491 00:23:55,380 --> 00:23:58,460 I spent ten and a half years of my life in jail. 492 00:23:59,020 --> 00:24:02,440 I spent the precious years of my youth, in jail. 493 00:24:04,300 --> 00:24:07,180 And what made you change your mind then about 494 00:24:07,280 --> 00:24:08,380 -before you were militant -I read, read 495 00:24:08,420 --> 00:24:09,380 -and now you're a peace -I read, read, read 496 00:24:09,420 --> 00:24:10,240 -ambassador-- -"Quran" in jail. 497 00:24:10,280 --> 00:24:13,120 "Quran" is a complete constitution of life. 498 00:24:14,020 --> 00:24:15,200 Allah asks in the "Quran"... 499 00:24:16,200 --> 00:24:19,000 (SPEAKING IN ARABIC) 500 00:24:19,240 --> 00:24:22,140 "The declaration to enjoin the good and forbid evil." 501 00:24:23,260 --> 00:24:26,460 It means you must do good deeds and forbid evil. 502 00:24:27,060 --> 00:24:29,260 This teaching transformed Saifullah's life 503 00:24:29,320 --> 00:24:33,020 and he now works to rehabilitate former militants. 504 00:24:33,320 --> 00:24:37,060 This time, Kashmiris want peace. 505 00:24:37,420 --> 00:24:41,060 We don't want violence, we don't want Pakistan. 506 00:24:41,180 --> 00:24:45,080 We don't want killing of innocent people. 507 00:24:46,200 --> 00:24:47,480 We want only peace. 508 00:24:49,480 --> 00:24:52,420 -The world needs more peacemakers. -One day, God willing. 509 00:24:57,040 --> 00:24:58,000 Welcome to Kashmir. 510 00:24:58,040 --> 00:24:59,080 -Thank you. -Thank you. 511 00:25:00,040 --> 00:25:03,260 All right, we are going to go for a ride in one of these tuk-tuks. 512 00:25:04,320 --> 00:25:06,260 Hello, how are you? Salaam-Alaikum. 513 00:25:06,380 --> 00:25:07,460 Keep going! 514 00:25:11,040 --> 00:25:14,440 Life in Kashmir has been deeply impacted by militancy 515 00:25:15,000 --> 00:25:18,140 and cross-border terrorism that peaked in the 1990s... 516 00:25:18,180 --> 00:25:20,300 and its impact is visible even today. 517 00:25:21,100 --> 00:25:23,380 In the recent past, there have been multiple attacks 518 00:25:23,420 --> 00:25:25,200 with civilian casualties 519 00:25:25,240 --> 00:25:27,440 and tensions still run high in the valley. 520 00:25:29,140 --> 00:25:32,400 But a stark contrast is seen amongst the youth of Kashmir 521 00:25:32,440 --> 00:25:35,060 and the dreams they desire to achieve. 522 00:25:36,260 --> 00:25:39,460 We're on our way to meet 15-year-old Sadia Tariq. 523 00:25:58,340 --> 00:25:59,420 Hey, how are you doing? 524 00:26:00,100 --> 00:26:01,280 -Ash. -Nice to meet you. 525 00:26:01,420 --> 00:26:03,020 What sport is this? 526 00:26:03,060 --> 00:26:04,400 It's Wushu-mixed martial arts. 527 00:26:04,440 --> 00:26:06,220 In which, we use punching, 528 00:26:06,260 --> 00:26:09,200 -kicking gripping and throwing. -Yeah. 529 00:26:09,320 --> 00:26:11,060 You know, Lev used to be a boxer. 530 00:26:11,160 --> 00:26:13,140 I did. A long time ago. I did some boxing. 531 00:26:13,180 --> 00:26:15,260 -Nice! -Yeah, but a very long time ago. 532 00:26:15,300 --> 00:26:18,080 -Like, what level are you? -Now, I'm like, senior. 533 00:26:18,180 --> 00:26:21,000 -Senior? -Yeah. Recently, I played at... 534 00:26:21,140 --> 00:26:23,100 Moscow Wushu Stars Championship in Russia 535 00:26:23,180 --> 00:26:24,340 and I won gold medal there. 536 00:26:24,380 --> 00:26:26,420 -You won the gold medal? -Amazing! Well done! 537 00:26:26,460 --> 00:26:28,340 That was like, too good for me 538 00:26:28,380 --> 00:26:29,440 because it was my first international event. 539 00:26:29,480 --> 00:26:30,400 Your first international 540 00:26:30,440 --> 00:26:31,260 -competition? -Yeah. 541 00:26:31,300 --> 00:26:33,000 -And you won the gold medal! -And you won the gold medal! 542 00:26:33,100 --> 00:26:33,460 Fantastic! 543 00:26:35,380 --> 00:26:40,480 Wushu traces its origins to China, and started in India in 1989. 544 00:26:41,240 --> 00:26:43,380 This martial art needs a lot of technique. 545 00:26:44,080 --> 00:26:45,460 But I'm a little rusty with my moves 546 00:26:46,000 --> 00:26:47,440 and I'm not sure if I am going to be able to handle this. 547 00:26:47,480 --> 00:26:49,200 -Okay, here we go. -Oh, dear! 548 00:26:49,480 --> 00:26:50,360 Okay! 549 00:26:55,100 --> 00:26:56,240 Yeah? Okay! 550 00:26:56,280 --> 00:26:59,080 -What do I do with this? -Yeah, it's for kicking. 551 00:26:59,180 --> 00:27:00,160 Okay, go, go. 552 00:27:00,320 --> 00:27:01,380 -Okay. -*Bleep*. 553 00:27:02,140 --> 00:27:03,180 -Yeah? -Okay. 554 00:27:04,060 --> 00:27:05,180 -I have not... -Is it okay? 555 00:27:05,240 --> 00:27:06,240 Yeah, you're just... 556 00:27:07,120 --> 00:27:09,160 Let's see some power and speed! 557 00:27:09,200 --> 00:27:10,440 It's genuinely hurt my arm. 558 00:27:11,120 --> 00:27:12,080 Come on, your turn. 559 00:27:15,420 --> 00:27:17,480 She kicked about four times as hard as you. 560 00:27:21,300 --> 00:27:22,420 How do you do grappling? 561 00:27:23,180 --> 00:27:24,300 -Can you show us? -Yeah. 562 00:27:25,040 --> 00:27:26,140 -On you? -Yeah. Why not? 563 00:27:26,180 --> 00:27:27,240 Come on, take me out! 564 00:27:27,280 --> 00:27:28,160 -You can do that... -If I'm going to go 565 00:27:28,200 --> 00:27:29,220 for you like this. 566 00:27:30,360 --> 00:27:32,040 Okay, that won't 567 00:27:34,280 --> 00:27:35,280 Good one! 568 00:27:38,160 --> 00:27:40,100 And can you do this in the Olympics as well? 569 00:27:40,140 --> 00:27:41,040 Yeah, I can. 570 00:27:41,180 --> 00:27:43,040 So, you're going to represent India at the Olympics? 571 00:27:43,260 --> 00:27:44,260 -Yes. -Well done. 572 00:27:44,300 --> 00:27:45,240 I mean, you must be, 573 00:27:45,280 --> 00:27:47,360 like, such an inspiration for young women 574 00:27:47,400 --> 00:27:48,320 -in Kashmir. -Yeah. 575 00:27:48,460 --> 00:27:50,040 How often do you train? 576 00:27:50,080 --> 00:27:51,140 -Every day or-- -Every day. 577 00:27:51,180 --> 00:27:52,140 -Every day, really? -Yeah. 578 00:27:52,180 --> 00:27:54,160 -For how long? -Five hours a day. 579 00:27:54,200 --> 00:27:55,040 -Wow! -Yeah. 580 00:27:55,080 --> 00:27:56,300 I'm tired after two minutes. 581 00:27:56,360 --> 00:27:58,080 But you did well. 582 00:27:58,140 --> 00:27:59,340 I'm tired just watching. 583 00:28:01,220 --> 00:28:03,380 So, who would win in a fight between me and Ash? 584 00:28:04,380 --> 00:28:06,140 Me? Here we go! 585 00:28:06,180 --> 00:28:08,220 -Let's, let's avoid the kicking. -Okay. 586 00:28:12,200 --> 00:28:14,120 Well, I wasn't expecting that. 587 00:28:15,340 --> 00:28:17,080 It's getting serious now. 588 00:28:22,180 --> 00:28:24,240 I'd like to be clear, if it was just boxing 589 00:28:24,280 --> 00:28:26,300 you would absolutely destroy me. 590 00:28:27,400 --> 00:28:29,340 Good luck. Thank you very much. Good to meet you. 591 00:28:29,380 --> 00:28:30,400 Sadia, it was awesome. Good luck. 592 00:28:30,440 --> 00:28:35,160 The younger generation like Sadia are bringing about change in Kashmir 593 00:28:35,220 --> 00:28:37,400 and paving new paths for themselves. 594 00:28:39,300 --> 00:28:43,140 It's our last evening here and walking around the old town, 595 00:28:43,180 --> 00:28:45,420 savouring the quiet moments of introspection, 596 00:28:46,020 --> 00:28:48,360 we're optimistic about Kashmir's bright future. 597 00:28:58,440 --> 00:29:03,020 We're in a local taxi headed 140 kilometres north from Srinagar, 598 00:29:03,220 --> 00:29:05,020 towards Gurez Valley. 599 00:29:06,140 --> 00:29:08,040 The strong military presence en route 600 00:29:08,140 --> 00:29:11,020 is a sign of the volatile region we're headed into. 601 00:29:14,200 --> 00:29:16,120 Just as we cross Bandipora 602 00:29:16,160 --> 00:29:18,300 and are about to approach the Tragbal Pass, 603 00:29:18,380 --> 00:29:20,200 we are stopped at a checkpoint. 604 00:29:26,240 --> 00:29:27,400 Give it fast. 605 00:29:32,160 --> 00:29:34,220 Woke up at five this morning, came up here 606 00:29:34,440 --> 00:29:37,300 got to the post where all the permissions had already been given 607 00:29:37,340 --> 00:29:38,280 and we were told "no". 608 00:29:38,320 --> 00:29:40,400 Now we are just sat waiting around and it's... 609 00:29:41,220 --> 00:29:42,380 quite frustrating, really. 610 00:29:42,420 --> 00:29:45,140 Well, we've been stuck on the side of this mountain for 611 00:29:45,200 --> 00:29:47,160 about four hours already today. 612 00:29:48,140 --> 00:29:51,040 Gurez has seen shelling as recently as 2020. 613 00:29:51,380 --> 00:29:53,400 Permissions to enter are hard to come by 614 00:29:53,440 --> 00:29:56,140 and only a few foreigners have visited this valley. 615 00:29:58,300 --> 00:30:02,180 Bit of a surprise, really, because, you know, I've been there before. 616 00:30:03,180 --> 00:30:06,260 But you know, it's a sensitive area and things change. 617 00:30:06,300 --> 00:30:07,360 For whatever reason, 618 00:30:08,000 --> 00:30:11,280 the police and the army are not currently 619 00:30:11,460 --> 00:30:14,240 allowing foreigners into the valley, so 620 00:30:15,120 --> 00:30:17,240 sort of just waiting to get news. 621 00:30:18,000 --> 00:30:20,400 We'd love to get to Gurez, but right at the moment. 622 00:30:21,000 --> 00:30:24,180 So, I just don't know if we're going to be able to go any further. 623 00:30:26,100 --> 00:30:28,200 We've been waiting for the best part of the day. 624 00:30:29,060 --> 00:30:30,300 We're getting impatient. 625 00:30:36,280 --> 00:30:37,180 Lev. 626 00:30:39,180 --> 00:30:41,060 -So we're... -Want something? 627 00:30:41,260 --> 00:30:42,340 We're going to go and give it a try. 628 00:30:42,380 --> 00:30:43,180 Yeah? 629 00:30:43,440 --> 00:30:45,260 The paper's still an hour away. 630 00:30:45,440 --> 00:30:47,060 -Right. -But 631 00:30:47,260 --> 00:30:49,440 somebody has told the Unit Commander that 632 00:30:50,260 --> 00:30:51,460 he should let us through. 633 00:30:52,260 --> 00:30:53,100 Okay. 634 00:30:53,400 --> 00:30:57,000 So, we're going to give it a try again. 635 00:30:58,000 --> 00:31:00,000 This is the third time at the checkpoint today. 636 00:31:00,040 --> 00:31:03,280 So, yeah, hopefully, we can get through this time. 637 00:31:03,440 --> 00:31:07,080 Put the camera away before we get spotted. 638 00:31:16,100 --> 00:31:17,340 Well, that's it. 639 00:31:17,380 --> 00:31:19,380 We are through! Third time's a charm. 640 00:31:20,120 --> 00:31:23,120 It looks like the right combination of... 641 00:31:24,140 --> 00:31:26,120 permissions, officers, 642 00:31:26,180 --> 00:31:28,480 weather, tea leaves, all came together to let us through. 643 00:31:29,040 --> 00:31:31,240 We made it. We are through on the other side, 644 00:31:31,380 --> 00:31:33,180 heading into the Gurez valley. 645 00:31:36,200 --> 00:31:38,260 After a frustrating day of waiting, 646 00:31:38,300 --> 00:31:41,140 we're finally on top of the Razdan Pass. 647 00:31:41,420 --> 00:31:45,000 This 11,000-feet-high gateway to Gurez 648 00:31:45,100 --> 00:31:48,040 remains closed for almost six months in winter, 649 00:31:48,080 --> 00:31:50,360 cutting off the valley from the rest of Kashmir. 650 00:31:51,300 --> 00:31:54,200 We ditch our transport and do what we do best. 651 00:31:54,480 --> 00:31:56,240 Start walking again. 652 00:31:57,140 --> 00:31:59,480 Here we go, the Gurez valley. 653 00:32:00,360 --> 00:32:01,280 Check it out. 654 00:32:02,300 --> 00:32:04,140 There was a whole host of reasons 655 00:32:04,360 --> 00:32:07,300 that constantly evolved and changed about why we couldn't 656 00:32:07,440 --> 00:32:10,160 get into the Gurez, it must be very special. 657 00:32:10,200 --> 00:32:11,480 I think so, yeah. 658 00:32:12,040 --> 00:32:14,160 It seems very secretive. It's almost like 659 00:32:14,280 --> 00:32:16,260 the Shangri-La of India. 660 00:32:16,300 --> 00:32:19,040 I mean, it really is the side of India that 661 00:32:19,200 --> 00:32:21,060 most people would never expect. 662 00:32:21,300 --> 00:32:22,420 The landscape is amazing. 663 00:32:23,120 --> 00:32:26,180 I know the main Gurez valley itself is over there. 664 00:32:27,360 --> 00:32:29,000 This is gorgeous. 665 00:32:29,260 --> 00:32:31,080 I mean, it's unlike any of the landscapes 666 00:32:31,120 --> 00:32:32,420 you've seen anywhere else in India. 667 00:32:33,480 --> 00:32:36,220 This hidden valley flourished with trade, 668 00:32:36,260 --> 00:32:38,240 as the gateway to Central Asia, 669 00:32:38,300 --> 00:32:40,280 up until the 14th Century. 670 00:32:40,440 --> 00:32:45,340 But after Partition, it was closed for 60 years until 2007. 671 00:32:46,060 --> 00:32:47,160 What a remarkable place. 672 00:32:47,480 --> 00:32:50,120 We're finally in the heart of Gurez. 673 00:32:50,180 --> 00:32:52,260 But our destination is further away. 674 00:32:53,040 --> 00:32:57,100 We're headed to Barnoi in Tulail, a sub-valley of the Gurez. 675 00:32:58,480 --> 00:33:00,120 Wow, we're back Ash! 676 00:33:00,160 --> 00:33:02,180 Can't believe it's been seven years since we were here last. 677 00:33:02,220 --> 00:33:03,100 I know. 678 00:33:04,200 --> 00:33:08,280 So, first steps on this, the original Silk Road. 679 00:33:08,340 --> 00:33:09,160 Yeah. 680 00:33:09,240 --> 00:33:11,460 And I wonder if we will recognise the, 681 00:33:12,160 --> 00:33:14,360 the route up, because we went out that way, didn't we? 682 00:33:14,400 --> 00:33:16,120 That's one of the spectacular... 683 00:33:16,440 --> 00:33:19,080 mountain scenery anywhere I've ever been. 684 00:33:19,140 --> 00:33:20,340 I mean, this could be a real, 685 00:33:21,220 --> 00:33:24,040 you know, tourism attraction, couldn't it? 686 00:33:24,080 --> 00:33:25,440 If it was opened up a bit. 687 00:33:26,280 --> 00:33:29,340 But at the same time, you know, you've got 688 00:33:30,040 --> 00:33:32,460 barbed wire fence up there indicating that 689 00:33:33,280 --> 00:33:35,400 you know, Pakistan is not far away. 690 00:33:36,460 --> 00:33:39,480 Kashmir is one of the most militarised frontiers on Earth, 691 00:33:40,020 --> 00:33:41,140 and the Line of Control runs 692 00:33:41,180 --> 00:33:43,100 just a few kilometres north of Gurez, 693 00:33:43,240 --> 00:33:44,460 nearly parallel to it. 694 00:33:45,420 --> 00:33:48,400 That's our destination, the village of Barnoi. 695 00:33:50,260 --> 00:33:51,260 Salaam-Alaikum. 696 00:33:52,360 --> 00:33:53,300 Salaam-Alaikum. 697 00:33:57,220 --> 00:34:00,140 We're meeting Aamir Wani, a Kashmiri photographer. 698 00:34:00,180 --> 00:34:01,220 He's here documenting 699 00:34:01,260 --> 00:34:03,280 some of the oldest inhabitants of Gurez 700 00:34:03,360 --> 00:34:05,040 the Dard Shins. 701 00:34:08,200 --> 00:34:12,160 He introduces us to Shali saab, a guesthouse owner in Barnoi. 702 00:34:13,040 --> 00:34:14,140 Have you been here before? 703 00:34:14,180 --> 00:34:15,300 I've been here before. 704 00:34:15,340 --> 00:34:18,200 Again, for documenting them, because it's sort of a, 705 00:34:18,440 --> 00:34:21,060 I would say, endangered kind of a tribe. 706 00:34:21,100 --> 00:34:22,360 -Because the language is dying. -Yes. 707 00:34:22,400 --> 00:34:23,420 The culture is dying. 708 00:34:24,280 --> 00:34:28,440 The Dards have lived in the Indian subcontinent for over 2,000 years. 709 00:34:29,020 --> 00:34:31,380 Their homeland once stretched from northern Afghanistan 710 00:34:31,460 --> 00:34:33,040 to central Tibet. 711 00:34:33,440 --> 00:34:35,200 How many people live in this village? 712 00:34:35,240 --> 00:34:37,080 How many people live in this village? 713 00:34:37,260 --> 00:34:42,240 -About 1,200. -One thousand two hundred, okay. 714 00:34:42,300 --> 00:34:45,160 How is it different from Kashmiri? The language. 715 00:34:45,200 --> 00:34:46,280 -Language. -Tell us about the language. 716 00:34:46,320 --> 00:34:48,020 How is it different from Kashmiri? 717 00:34:48,180 --> 00:34:51,440 Basically, the people who live here come from Gilgit Baltistan. 718 00:34:52,000 --> 00:34:53,240 -Right. -Right, originally... 719 00:34:53,300 --> 00:34:54,300 This is our tribe. 720 00:34:54,340 --> 00:34:56,360 So, it's quite similar to the Balti language? 721 00:34:56,440 --> 00:34:58,320 -No, no, no it's different. -It's different. 722 00:34:58,480 --> 00:35:00,440 Dard, Dard Shin. 723 00:35:01,040 --> 00:35:03,180 What's "hello" in Dard Shin? 724 00:35:04,160 --> 00:35:05,280 (SPEAKING IN SHINA) 725 00:35:05,320 --> 00:35:07,480 -That means-- -Are you good? Are you well? 726 00:35:08,020 --> 00:35:10,380 (SPEAKING IN SHINA) 727 00:35:10,420 --> 00:35:11,280 "Cha pi", 728 00:35:11,320 --> 00:35:13,060 -which means, have some tea. -"Cha pi"? 729 00:35:13,100 --> 00:35:16,020 Yeah, "cha pi" is "let's have tea." 730 00:35:16,160 --> 00:35:18,240 "Cha pi, tu theek ho ni? Cha pi!" 731 00:35:20,300 --> 00:35:24,040 Only 25,000 Dards now remain in Gurez and Tulail. 732 00:35:24,240 --> 00:35:26,040 With this region open to the world, 733 00:35:26,240 --> 00:35:28,480 their ancient homeland and indigenous way of life 734 00:35:29,020 --> 00:35:31,160 -are now both under threat. -Salaam-Alaikum. 735 00:35:31,420 --> 00:35:32,280 Hand shake. 736 00:35:33,100 --> 00:35:37,240 Amongst our friends and family, we speak only in our Shina language. 737 00:35:37,300 --> 00:35:39,480 Our writers have written books in this language. 738 00:35:40,020 --> 00:35:41,240 -Do you have books? -Yes. 739 00:35:41,300 --> 00:35:46,360 So, our elders teach us about it then we pass it on to our children 740 00:35:46,400 --> 00:35:50,280 to hold on to our culture, to our language. 741 00:35:50,320 --> 00:35:54,180 To respect it, because it's our pride and it shall take us ahead. 742 00:35:55,320 --> 00:35:59,020 -We're going into your house again? -Yeah. So that's his house. 743 00:35:59,060 --> 00:36:00,180 Salaam-Alaikum. 744 00:36:02,080 --> 00:36:05,260 We've been invited by Shali saab to his house for a cup of tea. 745 00:36:06,220 --> 00:36:08,440 A mark of this region's famed hospitality, 746 00:36:09,100 --> 00:36:11,100 and I even get an unusual gift. 747 00:36:12,020 --> 00:36:14,100 -Here's a woollen choga. -Oh, wow! 748 00:36:15,320 --> 00:36:18,280 Wow, this is thank you. Thank you. 749 00:36:19,360 --> 00:36:20,440 What's the name for this? 750 00:36:21,020 --> 00:36:23,140 It's called a, it's called pheran, right? 751 00:36:23,180 --> 00:36:24,160 Yeah, it's a pheran, 752 00:36:24,200 --> 00:36:26,280 and it's made of special fabric which is... 753 00:36:26,320 --> 00:36:28,060 -thicker. -Nice. 754 00:36:28,120 --> 00:36:30,060 -It's got pockets, which is great. -Yeah. 755 00:36:30,120 --> 00:36:31,480 And, you know, you can put your arms inside. 756 00:36:32,120 --> 00:36:33,180 You know, what people do... 757 00:36:34,040 --> 00:36:36,040 Oh, right, so I can do, with the... 758 00:36:36,080 --> 00:36:38,180 -With the kangri, the fire pot. -Yeah. 759 00:36:38,220 --> 00:36:40,400 Put your hands inside and it keeps you warm. 760 00:36:40,460 --> 00:36:42,140 -Right! -Oh! 761 00:36:42,180 --> 00:36:43,220 So you carry your own personal heater 762 00:36:43,260 --> 00:36:44,200 -with you. -Yes. 763 00:36:50,340 --> 00:36:51,340 This is good. 764 00:36:52,020 --> 00:36:54,060 -Very fresh. -Is this wheat? 765 00:36:54,240 --> 00:36:55,060 Yeah, it's wheat. 766 00:36:55,100 --> 00:36:56,040 -Wheat. -Yes. 767 00:36:56,340 --> 00:36:58,040 Grown here in the valley? 768 00:36:58,140 --> 00:37:00,200 -It's grown here? -Oh, yes. 769 00:37:01,340 --> 00:37:03,000 Local product. 770 00:37:08,400 --> 00:37:10,240 (SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE) 771 00:37:10,440 --> 00:37:11,320 Bye-bye. 772 00:37:12,380 --> 00:37:15,000 Leaving the Dard Shins behind, 773 00:37:15,060 --> 00:37:18,100 we're acutely aware of the hard times they have ahead 774 00:37:18,200 --> 00:37:21,300 to maintain a balance between modernity and tradition. 775 00:37:23,040 --> 00:37:26,120 We head back to Dawar, the capital of Gurez, 776 00:37:26,160 --> 00:37:27,440 towards our base camp. 777 00:37:28,060 --> 00:37:31,400 Aamir and a few four-legged locals join us for company. 778 00:37:32,380 --> 00:37:35,000 So, Aamir, how long have you been a photographer? 779 00:37:35,140 --> 00:37:37,260 So, I've been a photographer I've been doing this 780 00:37:37,300 --> 00:37:38,440 -for nine years now. -Okay. 781 00:37:39,180 --> 00:37:40,480 And what got you into that then? 782 00:37:41,200 --> 00:37:44,240 Well, it was basically when I was living in the UK... 783 00:37:45,000 --> 00:37:48,060 people would ask me where I am from and I'd tell them I am from Kashmir. 784 00:37:48,300 --> 00:37:52,200 And often they would say they know Kashmir because... 785 00:37:52,300 --> 00:37:54,440 of the news they see on the TV and... 786 00:37:55,060 --> 00:37:57,020 you know, it's mostly because of conflict. 787 00:37:57,180 --> 00:38:00,100 And the more people I met, the more I realised that 788 00:38:00,140 --> 00:38:01,100 there was a part of Kashmir 789 00:38:01,140 --> 00:38:04,300 which people are not basically able to see 790 00:38:04,340 --> 00:38:06,140 and somehow it's not coming out. 791 00:38:06,280 --> 00:38:10,000 And I took it upon myself as a Kashmiri that 792 00:38:10,040 --> 00:38:11,460 you know, there's something that needs to be done. 793 00:38:12,020 --> 00:38:14,380 And that's when I decided I need to go back and do something 794 00:38:14,420 --> 00:38:16,440 and show people the Kashmir 795 00:38:17,000 --> 00:38:20,020 that I see as a local Kashmiri, as a common man. 796 00:38:20,300 --> 00:38:22,020 Yeah, that's really important. 797 00:38:22,060 --> 00:38:25,460 Is there anywhere around here that is like an iconic photo or... 798 00:38:26,000 --> 00:38:29,440 I mean, there is a nice spot just ahead where you can see the valley 799 00:38:29,480 --> 00:38:31,120 and now the time is right 800 00:38:31,160 --> 00:38:32,080 -because since the sun is setting. -Should we check it out? 801 00:38:32,120 --> 00:38:33,020 Yeah. 802 00:38:37,260 --> 00:38:40,080 Exploring the Tulail valley is very tempting 803 00:38:40,220 --> 00:38:43,180 but we've got a 16-kilometre trek back to the campsite 804 00:38:43,320 --> 00:38:45,400 and a border village to explore tomorrow. 805 00:38:49,340 --> 00:38:51,380 -Should we get set up? -Yeah. 806 00:38:52,140 --> 00:38:54,160 We get a helping hand from Yasin Khan 807 00:38:54,220 --> 00:38:57,080 a curator of adventure experiences in the Himalayas 808 00:38:57,160 --> 00:38:58,400 and our campsite host. 809 00:38:59,060 --> 00:39:02,020 How long have you been doing guiding and camping for? 810 00:39:02,240 --> 00:39:06,060 -Since 1973. -Since 1973! Wow! 811 00:39:07,000 --> 00:39:09,000 Yasin is also a passionate skier 812 00:39:09,040 --> 00:39:11,120 and his son has followed in his tracks. 813 00:39:11,160 --> 00:39:14,100 It's your son represented India in the Winter Olympics? 814 00:39:14,160 --> 00:39:15,380 -Yes. -Fantastic! 815 00:39:15,440 --> 00:39:17,120 Do you reckon you and I could both get into 816 00:39:17,160 --> 00:39:18,160 an Olympic skiing team, Lev? 817 00:39:18,200 --> 00:39:19,380 I think we're probably a bit past that now, 818 00:39:19,420 --> 00:39:20,420 -to be honest. -Oh, yeah. 819 00:39:20,480 --> 00:39:21,400 Sadly. 820 00:39:26,280 --> 00:39:29,300 Yasin has generously offered us the local trout 821 00:39:29,340 --> 00:39:31,220 that this valley is famous for. 822 00:39:31,260 --> 00:39:34,200 -Get a bit of butter. -Rub the butter all over it. 823 00:39:35,360 --> 00:39:38,200 I'm going to salt it up as well. 824 00:39:38,280 --> 00:39:41,060 There we go. So, what are we going to call this, Ash? 825 00:39:41,100 --> 00:39:42,240 Rainbow trout Indian style? 826 00:39:42,300 --> 00:39:44,280 Rainbow a la Kashmir. 827 00:39:44,460 --> 00:39:46,260 -Rainbow a la Kashmir. -A la Gurez. 828 00:39:46,440 --> 00:39:47,360 A la Gurez! 829 00:39:47,400 --> 00:39:50,040 -Rainbow a la Gurez. -It's got a real ring to it, 830 00:39:50,080 --> 00:39:50,460 hasn't it? 831 00:39:54,280 --> 00:39:57,300 Got fish on there. We'll just flip it in a minute. 832 00:39:57,340 --> 00:39:59,480 -It won't take too long. -That'll give it enough heat. 833 00:40:00,020 --> 00:40:01,280 It's nice to be out in the wild, isn't it? 834 00:40:01,320 --> 00:40:03,200 -Just enjoy nature -Yeah, 835 00:40:03,260 --> 00:40:05,000 a little bit of walking and... 836 00:40:06,020 --> 00:40:07,400 spend time in the mountains. 837 00:40:08,120 --> 00:40:10,180 That is what life's all about really. 838 00:40:12,020 --> 00:40:14,460 And it really does feel remote. 839 00:40:15,000 --> 00:40:17,280 The challenge of getting here, the distance, 840 00:40:17,460 --> 00:40:20,020 the permissions 841 00:40:20,360 --> 00:40:21,440 and then 842 00:40:22,200 --> 00:40:26,240 the landscape as well, it's less tamed than other places I've been. 843 00:40:27,040 --> 00:40:29,400 But, you know, it's when you sit around the campfire, 844 00:40:29,440 --> 00:40:31,100 you know, it's all worth it. Isn't it? 845 00:40:31,140 --> 00:40:32,240 Yeah, absolutely. 846 00:40:33,020 --> 00:40:35,220 In terms of the Line of Control and, 847 00:40:35,360 --> 00:40:38,020 and the reasons we are here following this route... 848 00:40:38,260 --> 00:40:41,020 How does it feel different here to you than Ladakh did? 849 00:40:42,340 --> 00:40:44,400 It just feels much more present here, doesn't it? 850 00:40:44,440 --> 00:40:47,140 I suppose, you know, the history of the conflict, 851 00:40:47,180 --> 00:40:48,460 the proximity, the fact that... 852 00:40:49,240 --> 00:40:51,020 you know, decisions made... 853 00:40:51,140 --> 00:40:54,060 hundreds of miles away, if not, you know, if not further 854 00:40:54,100 --> 00:40:56,100 are having a direct impact on... 855 00:40:56,240 --> 00:40:58,200 -people's lives. -Yeah. 856 00:40:58,480 --> 00:41:02,100 I mean, it's also kind of interesting 857 00:41:02,180 --> 00:41:05,400 for me, you know, as a Brit, to come here 858 00:41:05,440 --> 00:41:07,300 and think about the fact that 859 00:41:08,040 --> 00:41:10,180 decisions made all those years ago... 860 00:41:10,280 --> 00:41:13,100 had this huge consequence for the people living here. 861 00:41:14,040 --> 00:41:18,380 And I suppose it must be even, even more relevant for you being of 862 00:41:19,140 --> 00:41:23,060 you know, of mixed heritage to sort of think about that. 863 00:41:24,140 --> 00:41:26,320 Yeah, and I think every time India comes in the news... 864 00:41:26,360 --> 00:41:29,320 it's usually because something has happened up in this region. 865 00:41:29,360 --> 00:41:31,320 But when you come down and see it on the ground, 866 00:41:31,360 --> 00:41:32,460 that's when it really matters. 867 00:41:33,020 --> 00:41:34,280 These are the people that get affected by it. 868 00:41:34,460 --> 00:41:36,280 It's so far removed... 869 00:41:37,140 --> 00:41:39,300 from most people's lives that it's easy to forget 870 00:41:39,340 --> 00:41:43,220 that there's real people on the receiving end of this sort of thing. 871 00:41:44,300 --> 00:41:47,120 -How is that fish looking, mate? -Yeah, let's have a look. 872 00:41:47,420 --> 00:41:49,080 -Reckon we're done? -Yeah. 873 00:41:49,240 --> 00:41:51,000 -Yeah. -Let's have it. 874 00:41:51,100 --> 00:41:54,200 Try not to grill your jacket as well. 875 00:41:54,420 --> 00:41:55,360 That's all right. 876 00:41:56,480 --> 00:41:59,080 -I think it's done. -It's my favourite bit, Ash. 877 00:41:59,340 --> 00:42:00,240 Here you go. 878 00:42:01,420 --> 00:42:03,400 -How romantic! -How romantic! 879 00:42:10,080 --> 00:42:13,000 Not quite what I was expecting you to do but... 880 00:42:13,420 --> 00:42:14,420 nevertheless... 881 00:42:27,080 --> 00:42:29,400 We are now heading north towards Chorwan... 882 00:42:30,160 --> 00:42:33,440 A 10-kilometre hike from our camp, it's a small hamlet 883 00:42:33,480 --> 00:42:37,240 overlooking the last border post near the Line of Control. 884 00:42:41,280 --> 00:42:42,160 As you keep going, 885 00:42:42,200 --> 00:42:44,100 the landscape can change quite a bit. 886 00:42:44,220 --> 00:42:48,140 Just come around the corner and up onto this little plateau, 887 00:42:48,220 --> 00:42:51,280 which seems to be a mix of farming and grazing. 888 00:42:52,000 --> 00:42:53,260 Few horses running around, 889 00:42:53,420 --> 00:42:55,420 the sun feels very alpine 890 00:42:55,460 --> 00:42:58,020 could almost be in Switzerland or something like that. 891 00:42:58,060 --> 00:43:02,080 I think it's one of the most amazing things about Kashmir. 892 00:43:02,120 --> 00:43:05,120 You've got these gigantic mountains, but so much variety. 893 00:43:05,220 --> 00:43:08,220 It just changes everywhere and 894 00:43:09,000 --> 00:43:11,200 the cultures change with it. And that's 895 00:43:12,100 --> 00:43:14,440 what makes it such a rewarding place to travel through. 896 00:43:21,400 --> 00:43:24,000 Bit more speed, bit more fun 897 00:43:24,280 --> 00:43:28,200 livening things up a bit makes the walk that much more enjoyable. 898 00:43:29,360 --> 00:43:32,460 As we get closer, the landscape becomes more barren. 899 00:43:33,020 --> 00:43:35,420 Our trusted guide is the Kishanganga river, 900 00:43:35,460 --> 00:43:39,140 that flows into this valley from across the Line of Control. 901 00:43:40,380 --> 00:43:43,060 So, that is Chorwan, Ash, there. 902 00:43:43,480 --> 00:43:48,040 And basically I think the road just peters out just beyond there. 903 00:43:48,080 --> 00:43:51,200 And then another sort of 600 metres or so... 904 00:43:51,320 --> 00:43:53,320 that is the actual Line of Control. 905 00:43:53,420 --> 00:43:55,260 They could literally throw snowballs 906 00:43:55,300 --> 00:43:57,120 -at each other from up there. -Yeah. 907 00:43:58,400 --> 00:44:00,460 Imagine being a person that lives here because 908 00:44:01,120 --> 00:44:04,060 any time anything happens in Srinagar or Delhi, 909 00:44:04,100 --> 00:44:05,280 any kind of terrorist attack, 910 00:44:05,400 --> 00:44:07,380 it always ramps up the tension on the border. 911 00:44:07,420 --> 00:44:10,040 -Definitely, yeah. -So, I guess for these guys... 912 00:44:10,160 --> 00:44:13,100 you know, they are carrying on their life, grazing their sheep. 913 00:44:13,140 --> 00:44:14,420 Trying to build their houses, and then 914 00:44:14,480 --> 00:44:17,020 something happened hundreds of miles away 915 00:44:17,140 --> 00:44:18,460 and all of a sudden they are... 916 00:44:19,000 --> 00:44:20,140 These are the most vulnerable, aren't they? 917 00:44:20,180 --> 00:44:21,460 Yeah, they are at the risk of 918 00:44:22,300 --> 00:44:25,160 the conflict actually taking fire here. 919 00:44:26,240 --> 00:44:29,340 Chorwan saw heavy shelling until 2003. 920 00:44:30,080 --> 00:44:32,040 It's heavily fenced all around 921 00:44:32,100 --> 00:44:35,040 and under constant surveillance from both countries. 922 00:44:36,040 --> 00:44:38,380 And life in this border village is not easy. 923 00:44:39,140 --> 00:44:39,460 Hello. 924 00:44:40,120 --> 00:44:41,240 -How are you? -I'm fine, sir. 925 00:44:41,420 --> 00:44:44,300 Zainulla Lone, a local from the village 926 00:44:44,340 --> 00:44:47,300 and a former member of the Indian Territorial Army, 927 00:44:47,340 --> 00:44:50,180 has agreed to take us close to the Line of Control. 928 00:44:51,120 --> 00:44:53,080 And where is the end of the road? 929 00:44:53,360 --> 00:44:55,120 -Last -Just here? 930 00:44:55,160 --> 00:44:57,140 -Wooden bridge. -Last wooden bridge 931 00:44:57,180 --> 00:44:58,420 -Can we see it? -Yeah. 932 00:45:00,020 --> 00:45:02,440 When you were in the Army, were you based here? 933 00:45:02,480 --> 00:45:04,280 -Yes, sir. -Okay. 934 00:45:04,320 --> 00:45:06,160 This is our village. 935 00:45:06,200 --> 00:45:08,020 So you defended it, wow! That must be... 936 00:45:08,060 --> 00:45:09,440 The last village in Gurez area. 937 00:45:09,480 --> 00:45:10,340 Yeah. 938 00:45:10,380 --> 00:45:12,420 PoK first village is Dudgai. 939 00:45:13,140 --> 00:45:14,000 -Dudgai? -Yes. 940 00:45:14,040 --> 00:45:15,080 Can you see Dudgai? 941 00:45:15,260 --> 00:45:17,000 -Yes, yes, sir. -Wow! 942 00:45:17,140 --> 00:45:20,180 There is no phone system, no network connectivity. 943 00:45:20,220 --> 00:45:22,240 The power lasts for only seven hours in the day. 944 00:45:22,280 --> 00:45:25,120 -So, no permanent electricity? -No, no, sir. 945 00:45:25,160 --> 00:45:27,160 The Line of Control is ahead of the bridge. 946 00:45:27,480 --> 00:45:31,000 If the livestock end up going to the other side, 947 00:45:31,040 --> 00:45:33,000 they have to come back on their own. 948 00:45:33,040 --> 00:45:35,400 If not, nobody can go fetch them... 949 00:45:35,440 --> 00:45:37,280 because they can fire at us any time. 950 00:45:40,320 --> 00:45:43,140 What are these bunkers here? Are these army positions? 951 00:45:43,180 --> 00:45:47,360 The local government has build this bunker for the people. 952 00:45:47,420 --> 00:45:49,420 -So, it's a bomb shelter? -Yes, sir. 953 00:45:50,280 --> 00:45:52,480 -Wow! Can we see inside? -Yes, sir. 954 00:45:57,040 --> 00:45:58,400 -We might need some light. -Yes, sir. 955 00:45:58,440 --> 00:46:00,060 Let me get my torch out. 956 00:46:00,220 --> 00:46:01,400 -This is more like it. -Wow! 957 00:46:04,400 --> 00:46:06,380 -So, how big is this bunker? -This is the bunker. 958 00:46:06,420 --> 00:46:08,460 -So how many people can fit in here? -Yes, sir. 959 00:46:09,000 --> 00:46:10,460 -Fifty to 60. -Fifty to 60? 960 00:46:11,000 --> 00:46:11,340 Yes, sir. 961 00:46:11,420 --> 00:46:14,000 And how many of these are there in the village? 962 00:46:14,180 --> 00:46:15,160 Six bunkers. 963 00:46:15,200 --> 00:46:16,320 -Six bunkers? -Yes, sir. 964 00:46:16,380 --> 00:46:17,300 Okay. 965 00:46:17,440 --> 00:46:19,100 So when you're in here... 966 00:46:19,140 --> 00:46:21,380 -you're safe from the shelling? -Safe. Yes, sir. 967 00:46:21,420 --> 00:46:22,300 Yeah. 968 00:46:22,340 --> 00:46:24,180 Imagine living in a place where... 969 00:46:24,340 --> 00:46:26,380 that's just something that you think you might have to do. 970 00:46:26,420 --> 00:46:27,160 Yeah. 971 00:46:27,200 --> 00:46:28,420 Just have to go into a bunker. 972 00:46:29,400 --> 00:46:30,460 Yeah, it's terrifying. 973 00:46:31,320 --> 00:46:35,080 You know, being huddled in here with 60 people. 974 00:46:35,440 --> 00:46:40,000 And not knowing whether or not you're going to live or die 975 00:46:40,040 --> 00:46:43,000 and even if you survive, your house might be destroyed. 976 00:46:43,400 --> 00:46:45,380 You could even wake up in a different country 977 00:46:45,420 --> 00:46:47,440 -or under different control. -Oh, yeah, yeah. 978 00:46:49,080 --> 00:46:53,240 When the shelling happened in 2003, how long did it last? 979 00:46:54,140 --> 00:46:55,020 Two months. 980 00:46:55,080 --> 00:46:56,060 -Two months! -Two months! 981 00:46:56,100 --> 00:46:56,480 Yes, sir. 982 00:46:57,260 --> 00:46:59,340 -Continuous. -Whoa! 983 00:47:01,200 --> 00:47:04,120 These bunkers are yet another reminder 984 00:47:04,160 --> 00:47:06,300 that life on the frontlines is fraught 985 00:47:06,340 --> 00:47:08,260 with tension and uncertainty. 986 00:47:09,160 --> 00:47:11,240 We're now heading to the edge of this village 987 00:47:11,280 --> 00:47:14,180 as close to the Line of Control as you can get. 988 00:47:14,460 --> 00:47:16,000 So this is the... 989 00:47:16,040 --> 00:47:18,260 -The last bridge in India? -The last bridge in India. 990 00:47:18,460 --> 00:47:20,180 Last village, last bridge. 991 00:47:20,240 --> 00:47:22,180 -It looks like it's down. -Yes, sir. 992 00:47:22,420 --> 00:47:27,380 The bridge is broken and that's why, people walk over it carefully. 993 00:47:33,180 --> 00:47:34,340 Is that PoK? 994 00:47:34,380 --> 00:47:36,080 -That's PoK, sir. -On the top? 995 00:47:36,140 --> 00:47:37,440 -That's PoK? -Yes, sir, yes, sir. 996 00:47:37,480 --> 00:47:39,000 Wow! 997 00:47:39,040 --> 00:47:40,100 So, do you think, from here, 998 00:47:40,140 --> 00:47:42,040 -the Pakistani army-- -They are watching us? 999 00:47:42,080 --> 00:47:43,140 Watching absolutely, right, sir. 1000 00:47:43,180 --> 00:47:44,340 -Right now? -Absolutely. 1001 00:47:47,120 --> 00:47:48,460 Hello, Pakistani Army. 1002 00:47:50,000 --> 00:47:51,020 See you soon. 1003 00:47:54,200 --> 00:47:55,320 See you on the other side. 1004 00:47:56,060 --> 00:47:57,120 Good idea, do you think? 1005 00:47:57,260 --> 00:48:00,080 Yeah, let's maybe move quickly. Come on. 1006 00:48:01,000 --> 00:48:02,280 In case, they've got good snipers. 1007 00:48:08,340 --> 00:48:10,100 This is the end of the road, isn't it, really? 1008 00:48:10,140 --> 00:48:12,480 From now on in, it's heading south 1009 00:48:13,280 --> 00:48:15,200 Punjab, Amritsar and then... 1010 00:48:16,040 --> 00:48:18,000 ...cross over to Pakistan. 1011 00:48:20,060 --> 00:48:22,000 I'm going to miss these mountains though. 1012 00:48:22,140 --> 00:48:24,320 Strange to think that in a little while we'll be 1013 00:48:25,080 --> 00:48:27,100 seeing the same things from the other side. 1014 00:48:27,300 --> 00:48:30,400 Onwards to the plains. The land of the five rivers. 1015 00:48:30,440 --> 00:48:32,440 Subtitle Caption by ZestCorp