In the far reaches of Northwestern India and Pakistan.
On the high plateaus surrounded by mountains and rivers.
A rich tapestry of community and culture
have co-existed for centuries.
Once one country, they are now neighbours separated by a border.
I'm Levison Wood
and this is Ash Bhardwaj.
We're explorers and life-long friends,
who have travelled to the far corners of the globe,
from Sudan to the Himalayas.
We are on a 2500-kilometre adventure.
Starting our journey
from the border villages in northwestern Ladakh.
Oh, yeah.
We'll use the Line of Control as our roadmap,
heading south through one of the coldest
inhabited places on Earth.
It's absolutely freezing up here.
Travelling through the stunning valleys of Kashmir.
It's almost like the Shangri-La of India.
And then into Punjab.
(ALL) "Sat Sri Akaal!"
Before crossing into Pakistan at Wagah.
Ready?
I can't hear anything.
Welcome to Pakistan.
Our journey will end in the village of Fraono,
on the other side of the border.
We'll bear witness to how the border has divided lives
but where hope of a reunion still lives.
We'll navigate dangerous terrain.
Keep going! Keep going! Keep going!
Cross into uncharted territory and enter frontier towns.
A lot of military movements up there.
Not necessarily a good look.
That is all Taliban territory.
(SHOOTING)
We're heading off the beaten path
on an expedition of a lifetime.
-You're going towards Srinagar? -Srinagar?
You're going to Islamabad?
So far, we have travelled through Ladakh from Tyakshi to Zoji La Pass.
And now, we're on the next part of our journey,
which will take us deep into northern Kashmir.
This is certainly a region that really is very much on the
edge of India.
So, this is the last
-bridge in India? -Last bridge in India.
What are you looking at?
I was looking at my relatives.
Keep going!
Welcome to Kashmir.
-Thank you. -Thank you.
This area used to be the militants base.
So, it's a bomb shelter!
Yeah, it's terrifying!
So, we have crossed over into Kashmir.
And we can already feel how much warmer it is.
There's trees on the slopes, we didn't have any of that
on the other side.
One of the dangers is, because it's warmer.
There is more snow melt, there is more rock slides
ones come down on the road.
-Is the road blocked? -Yeah.
Ten minutes only.
-Ten minutes? -Sure.
I don't believe him.
We have been standing here for
probably a couple of hours now and
yeah, tried to hitch a lift but
it's just a complete traffic jam.
There's still a guy up there.
You can see a digger on the cliff
pushing some of this dangerous rock away.
But it's still falling down.
So, I think we might not be able to get through, Lev.
Yeah, there is no way any cars are going to get through there
anytime soon.
It will take at least two hours.
-Two more hours? -Yes.
-Two hours more! -Two hours.
We've taken our first steps into Kashmir
and already hit a roadblock.
Just not the kind we were expecting.
So, they've actually said they are going to stop
the digging for a second
and let us run across the boulder field.
-Yeah. -Shall we?
-Hurry up! -Okay.
Fine, let's go.
Careful, Ash!
Keep going, run.
Don't sprain anything.
Sprinting through a crumbling rubble field
in altitude is not what I planned today.
Okay.
We've still got to make it all the way to the bottom.
There's a couple of bends, and obviously,
those rocks don't just stop there.
So, there are a couple more danger areas still to go.
Incredible power of nature?
All right? Can we go?
I think we've got to follow behind the digger.
He's going to go and clear the road.
And this is this is the final hurdle.
Keep going! Keep going! Keep going!
Thank you!
Kashmiri poplar trees line the roads
as we head out this misty, rainy morning to Teetwal.
A village on the northwest frontier of Kashmir.
Teetwal is 250 kilometres away from the Zoji La Pass
and we're trying to get there before sundown.
By the time we reach a small town called Sopore.
It's overcast and our progress is slow.
We need a ride
and the only vehicle we could find is a cattle truck.
There's not much space in the front, so Lev's up on the back.
Yeah!
How are you? Salaam-Alaikum.
-I'm doing great. How about you? -What's your name?
Sir, my name is Farooq Ahmed.
-Sarfa? -Farooq, farooq.
Farooq!
How you doing, Ash?
How are the cows?
I think the cows are all right, pretty packed up here.
Not much room.
Determined to make it to Teetwal by any means possible,
Farooq's cattle truck gives us a chance to travel like the locals.
Is it dangerous with the electrics?
-Electricity? -Very dangerous.
Very dangerous, yeah, I can see that.
Turn left, turn left!
-How are the cowboys? -How are the cowboys?
Everyone seems fine up here.
They are a bit concerned about our onward journey to Pakistan.
-They say it's very dangerous. -Oh, okay.
I don't think it's as dangerous as this cattle truck, though.
-Teetwal is close to Pakistan, yes? -Yes.
Very close.
I wasn't expecting a hitchhike to be
the most dangerous thing about Kashmir so far
and after one hour of driving
we think it's time to pursue a safer form of travel.
-Yeah, this is where we stop! -Okay, thank you very much.
-Very good driving. -Okay, okay sir.
Very good driving.
-Sorry, mate -It's all right.
You've got a boot in my face.
Probably better than a power line in the face?
-How was that? -Well, that was quite the ride!
I think it's my turn to go on the inside next time.
I think so.
We're closing in on the Line of Control
climbing higher past the remote Sadhna Pass
the only road connecting Teetwal to the rest of Kashmir.
This is the northwestern reaches of Kashmir
heading right up into the Line of Control.
On the other side of that is Pakistani-occupied Kashmir.
So, this is certainly a region that really is very much on the
edge of India and...
It feels like a frontier as well. Doesn't it?
Yeah, it really does.
We're on our own in the Karnah Valley,
way off the beaten track.
There's barely a sign of civilisation.
There's a lot of military movements up there.
Yeah, it's better for us if we kind of stay off the road a bit.
So we're not attracting, too much attention.
Because even though we're not doing anything wrong, you know
two guys just wandering around in the woods
near the Line of Control is
not necessarily a good look, so
not sure if we'd be detained and
questioned for hours and we'd lose time.
So we're just trying to sort of stay low.
Saved ourselves a...
-good mile, I'd say. -Yeah, yeah.
-Worth it? -Yeah, I think it was worth it.
Onwards!
We pick up the pace and manage to make it to Teetwal before sunset.
It's a little hot, but we're relieved
to get here in daylight.
Model village Teetwal.
-This is the place. Isn't it? -Yeah.
Now, we've been through a few checkpoints and things but...
there's a noticeable...
absence of any military or anything like here, isn't there?
I suppose the last thing you want is two nations' armies
right facing each other.
It's good to have that buffer zone, isn't it?
But it means these people that live in this village are...
very much, you know, on that front line.
This is the...
-Line of Control right here. -This is the frontline
Yeah.
-Salaam-Alaikum. -Wa-Alaikum-Salaam.
Rameez is a teacher, a hardware shop owner
and our local host.
At 32, he's part of the younger generation
who has built a life in this border village.
-How many people live in this town? -This village?
-Two hundred families living here. -Two hundred families.
We can hear the call to prayer.
It's from this side and the other side?
Both.
-Same time? -Both time.
Same time.
It's so strange must to be so close.
So close.
And do you have many friends on the other side?
I have also my relatives are living there.
-Your relatives? -Really?
How do you communicate with them?
-Through loudspeaker. Yeah. -Really?
-Really? You shout across? -That's amazing.
When somebody passes away...
-Yeah. -Yeah.
In the village, we announce
on the loudspeaker to convey to them.
Oh, really? And what happens when you have, like,
-a joint funeral across the river? -They come...
-They come to -The other side,
-Really? -You see.
Wow.
Rameez tells us about the Teetwal crossing bridge
which connects both sides.
It spans the Kishanganga river and has been shut since 2018,
due to increased tensions between India and Pakistan.
Sir!
Well. Rameez has just gone to go and ask the security guard
as to whether we can go and actually...
go and see the bridge but I don't know what the chances are.
I mean, this is as close as you can possibly get to
you know, you can literally see the flags just there.
Once Chilhana, the settlement across the river
and Teetwal were one village.
And Teetwal was a trading hub.
Today, the two villages sit divided by the Kishanganga
which acts as the Line of Control.
He told me that shooting is not allowed here.
Okay.
-If you want to go there, -Can we go
-without camera. -and see it anyway?
-Yeah, yeah, yeah. -Then you can easily go there.
Yeah, yeah, fine. Okay, we can go down.
-You got to stay there. -Yeah. Come with me
-Sir! -See you in a bit, guys.
Don't go that side, just until here.
Yes, we're just going to have a look at the bridge and come back.
-Hello, sir. -Hello, Salaam-Alaikum.
-Greeting. -Greeting.
We are under surveillance.
Yeah.
The soldiers, do they speak Urdu or...
-like Kashmiri? -They speak Punjabi.
-Punjabi? -Yeah?
-Pashto... -Pashto, yeah.
-Yeah, I think they speak -They belong...
enough languages to be able to communicate
with each other, I'm sure.
This bridge is one of the five crossing points
along the Line of Control
that India and Pakistan had opened in 2005
to allow separated families to visit each other.
We're lucky we got a chance to see it up close.
And what year did the separation happen?
The separation between that side and this side.
When...
we got free from...
-Did you hear that, Lev? -What'd he say?
He said, "When we got free from..."
Britisher!
Your bloody lot.
My bloody lot.
1947.
1947, yeah.
Hello! Give them a wave!
-They are friendly? -Yeah, they are shaking hands.
It's a beautiful place.
Rameez introduces us to Abdul Rashid,
the village headman and a writer born before Partition.
I'm doing good, by the grace of God.
See that tank house near the border?
Yeah.
That's where my cousin brother lives.
-Your cousin brother? -Yes.
And that other one is my cousin sister's house.
And you speak to them? You talk to them?
I went in 2008 on a LOC permit.
So from 1947 to 2008...
-You've never met -Yes.
-your relatives? -No, no, no never, never.
How did that feel when you went in 2008?
How did you feel when you finally met them?
It felt like a new kind of happiness found me,
as if a new bond was created altogether.
When you're living here, does it ever feel dangerous
to be so close to the Line of Control?
Look, war is no solution to an issue.
The people living on the borders of both sides...
they want there to be peace.
They want peace. They want to meet each other.
And they request both the governments
-of India and Pakistan... -Yeah.
That open the crossing point
-once again we will meet each other. -Yeah, yeah.
Do you think it will be open soon? One day soon?
-We hope so. -You hope so, yeah.
Can I?
Yeah, yeah. Please have a look.
He knows, he uses.
What are you looking at?
I was looking at my relatives.
You're looking at your relatives. You were spying on them?
From there, they are seeing.
When the bridge was open,
the villagers could meet their relatives
and even stay over on the other side.
But such reunions only lasted for 13 years
before the bridge was closed.
-He says, "where from he?" -From here!
-Where from? -Where from? Oh, London, London.
-London? Britannia? -Britannia, yes.
See, the
British rule in India, right?
So, when they left
they divided us in two parts.
Tell them to reunite both the parties.
Why did they make us fight and leave?
Yeah, I understand...
Rashid's question hits home.
It's a very real reminder
of how a line drawn on the map 75 years ago
changed lives forever.
Thank you.
Oh, look, people are playing on the green.
-Yeah. -Badminton, cricket.
-Shaan-e-Tithwal Stadium. -Stadium.
Do you want to see if we can join in? Shall we?
Yeah!
One positive thing the British gave to
the subcontinent was cricket.
And it continues to be an obsession in India and Pakistan.
Oh, nice!
Come on, Malik.
-They are speeding up. I like it. -Come on.
Wow. What a beautiful shot!
Okay, guys. Let's pile on the pressure now,
let's bring in the catches.
In our latest head to head, things are getting fierce.
Ready? Here he comes. Can't stand anymore.
Oh, slips would've had him!
Would have, could have, but didn't.
Finally, I get the best bowler in Teetwal to give it a go.
Bit of competitive spirit coming out of this one, I think.
Just don't want it straight on the nose.
Here we go.
Get the ball.
Second one. Your turn
Oh, God!
Wish I don't get out on the first ball.
Easy, easy.
"Easy, easy."
Go easy, go easy. Easy.
-Yeah! -He's not even in our game.
You got caught out by somebody
who wasn't even playing in our match.
Well done. Who's the winner?
I think this guy is a better cricketer than this.
-Sorry, Ash. -I'm sorry. I'm sorry.
Thank you very much.
-That was wonderful! -Thank you.
You enjoyed that?
(CALL TO PRAYER)
At Iftar time, we visit Ajaz Khan,
Rameez's uncle, who has invited us to join his family
for the traditional breaking of the Ramadan fast.
So is the date...
are dates usually the first thing you eat,
-for Iftar? -Yes.
-Dates and water, plain water. -Dates and water.
You are from?
I'm from, I'm from London.
-But my family are originally... -But you're not white.
I am not white, no.
-He is originally from London. -I am from "originally" London.
-You are from "original" London? -Yeah, yeah, yeah.
He is white.
Fasting is one of the five pillars of Islam.
And during Ramadan,
the meal eaten post sunset is called Iftar.
Being invited for the meal by this local family,
is a mark of the warm hospitality that Kashmir is famous for.
When the bridge was open, did you ever do,
Iftar or Ramadan with your family there?
-You did? -Yeah.
-Did you ever? -Yeah, he also.
-Yeah. -He also had been there
-It was 2013, right? -No, 14...
-Okay, 2014. -2014.
2014.
Why do you think that they want to keep this border closed?
Our government wishes to open the way, the road
right?
But the government on the other side,
the Pakistani Government...
they are not allowing it. I don't know, what's their issue.
Sadly, this seems to be a running thread
for families split across either side.
Their only hope is for these roads and bridges to open,
reuniting them with their loved ones.
(ALL PRAYING)
Well, Teetwal was a really, really long journey
to get here, but worth it.
You know, it's right on the Line of Control
this amazing gorge,
and to be literally a stone's throw away from,
Pakistan-controlled area,
was, you know, just, quite mind blowing, really
to see the Indian flag right next to the Pakistani flag.
You know, it wasn't something that I expected to see
so, so close.
Teetwal was a lovely village. I had a really nice time there.
Great, great fun to play some cricket,
and to hear the stories of the people who had,
finally had the chance to cross the river,
a few years ago to visit their relatives and
sadly for it to be stopped again because of political unrest.
But a stunning place, really great to see it.
A 170 kilometres from Teetwal, we arrive in Srinagar
which Lev and I last visited in 2015.
The Dal Lake, known as the jewel in the crown of Kashmir,
with its distinct way of life, is once again bustling with tourists
despite the heavy military presence throughout the city.
We head to Hazratbal, the holiest Muslim shrine in Kashmir
to meet a man who played a part in the region's
decades-long internal conflict.
Saifullah Farooq
is a former Kashmiri militant commander.
Who was active during the turbulent 1990s.
So, you were trained as a militant in Pakistan?
Yeah.
How many years were you doing that for?
-I went in 1989 -Yeah.
-to Pakistan for my training... -Yeah.
Militant training.
-And I came back in '90. -Yeah.
-And on 7th September 1991
-I was arrested by the Indian Army. -Okay.
So, where did you train in Pakistan?
-I was in PoK, you know? -On the other side.
-The other side of Kashmir. -Okay.
There was a training camp in "Garhi Dupatta"
and "Matchbox Factory"
Pakistani people were also trained there,
and they came with us here, in Kashmir.
So, what kind of things were they teaching you?
I know how to operate an AK-47 assault rifle.
I can target with an AK-47 assault rifle.
I'm trained in operating Light Machine Guns
and throwing Grenades.
Rocket Propelled Grenades, you know?
I've used them too.
What were your missions?
Did you have to go when you were a militant?
Our mission was to fight with Indian...
-Indian soldiers. -Soldiers.
-And you, you did that? -Oh, yeah.
While the market around the mosque now bustles with life
it was once the epicentre of conflict.
Look, this entire area you see here
this used to be the base of the militants.
There used to be thousands of militants here
armed with weapons.
There used to be a community kitchen here, for meals.
Then there was an encounter.
So, they took them behind a house here somewhere...
So, they would have encounters
-here? -Yeah, yeah.
-With the... -Yeah.
So, the militants would be outside the mosque and they would
-fight the Indian Army? Here. -Yeah.
They would fight with Indian forces.
I was also in charge of this area
and I used to stand here with a rifle.
I used to have guns.
What will I ever gain from lying?
I spent ten and a half years of my life in jail.
I spent the precious years of my youth, in jail.
And what made you change your mind then about
-before you were militant -I read, read
-and now you're a peace -I read, read, read
-ambassador-- -"Quran" in jail.
"Quran" is a complete constitution of life.
Allah asks in the "Quran"...
(SPEAKING IN ARABIC)
"The declaration to enjoin the good and forbid evil."
It means you must do good deeds and forbid evil.
This teaching transformed Saifullah's life
and he now works to rehabilitate former militants.
This time, Kashmiris want peace.
We don't want violence, we don't want Pakistan.
We don't want killing of innocent people.
We want only peace.
-The world needs more peacemakers. -One day, God willing.
Welcome to Kashmir.
-Thank you. -Thank you.
All right, we are going to go for a ride in one of these tuk-tuks.
Hello, how are you? Salaam-Alaikum.
Keep going!
Life in Kashmir has been deeply impacted by militancy
and cross-border terrorism that peaked in the 1990s...
and its impact is visible even today.
In the recent past, there have been multiple attacks
with civilian casualties
and tensions still run high in the valley.
But a stark contrast is seen amongst the youth of Kashmir
and the dreams they desire to achieve.
We're on our way to meet 15-year-old Sadia Tariq.
Hey, how are you doing?
-Ash. -Nice to meet you.
What sport is this?
It's Wushu-mixed martial arts.
In which, we use punching,
-kicking gripping and throwing. -Yeah.
You know, Lev used to be a boxer.
I did. A long time ago. I did some boxing.
-Nice! -Yeah, but a very long time ago.
-Like, what level are you? -Now, I'm like, senior.
-Senior? -Yeah. Recently, I played at...
Moscow Wushu Stars Championship in Russia
and I won gold medal there.
-You won the gold medal? -Amazing! Well done!
That was like, too good for me
because it was my first international event.
Your first international
-competition? -Yeah.
-And you won the gold medal! -And you won the gold medal!
Fantastic!
Wushu traces its origins to China, and started in India in 1989.
This martial art needs a lot of technique.
But I'm a little rusty with my moves
and I'm not sure if I am going to be able to handle this.
-Okay, here we go. -Oh, dear!
Okay!
Yeah? Okay!
-What do I do with this? -Yeah, it's for kicking.
Okay, go, go.
-Okay. -*Bleep*.
-Yeah? -Okay.
-I have not... -Is it okay?
Yeah, you're just...
Let's see some power and speed!
It's genuinely hurt my arm.
Come on, your turn.
She kicked about four times as hard as you.
How do you do grappling?
-Can you show us? -Yeah.
-On you? -Yeah. Why not?
Come on, take me out!
-You can do that... -If I'm going to go
for you like this.
Okay, that won't
Good one!
And can you do this in the Olympics as well?
Yeah, I can.
So, you're going to represent India at the Olympics?
-Yes. -Well done.
I mean, you must be,
like, such an inspiration for young women
-in Kashmir. -Yeah.
How often do you train?
-Every day or-- -Every day.
-Every day, really? -Yeah.
-For how long? -Five hours a day.
-Wow! -Yeah.
I'm tired after two minutes.
But you did well.
I'm tired just watching.
So, who would win in a fight between me and Ash?
Me? Here we go!
-Let's, let's avoid the kicking. -Okay.
Well, I wasn't expecting that.
It's getting serious now.
I'd like to be clear, if it was just boxing
you would absolutely destroy me.
Good luck. Thank you very much. Good to meet you.
Sadia, it was awesome. Good luck.
The younger generation like Sadia are bringing about change in Kashmir
and paving new paths for themselves.
It's our last evening here and walking around the old town,
savouring the quiet moments of introspection,
we're optimistic about Kashmir's bright future.
We're in a local taxi headed 140 kilometres north from Srinagar,
towards Gurez Valley.
The strong military presence en route
is a sign of the volatile region we're headed into.
Just as we cross Bandipora
and are about to approach the Tragbal Pass,
we are stopped at a checkpoint.
Give it fast.
Woke up at five this morning, came up here
got to the post where all the permissions had already been given
and we were told "no".
Now we are just sat waiting around and it's...
quite frustrating, really.
Well, we've been stuck on the side of this mountain for
about four hours already today.
Gurez has seen shelling as recently as 2020.
Permissions to enter are hard to come by
and only a few foreigners have visited this valley.
Bit of a surprise, really, because, you know, I've been there before.
But you know, it's a sensitive area and things change.
For whatever reason,
the police and the army are not currently
allowing foreigners into the valley, so
sort of just waiting to get news.
We'd love to get to Gurez, but right at the moment.
So, I just don't know if we're going to be able to go any further.
We've been waiting for the best part of the day.
We're getting impatient.
Lev.
-So we're... -Want something?
We're going to go and give it a try.
Yeah?
The paper's still an hour away.
-Right. -But
somebody has told the Unit Commander that
he should let us through.
Okay.
So, we're going to give it a try again.
This is the third time at the checkpoint today.
So, yeah, hopefully, we can get through this time.
Put the camera away before we get spotted.
Well, that's it.
We are through! Third time's a charm.
It looks like the right combination of...
permissions, officers,
weather, tea leaves, all came together to let us through.
We made it. We are through on the other side,
heading into the Gurez valley.
After a frustrating day of waiting,
we're finally on top of the Razdan Pass.
This 11,000-feet-high gateway to Gurez
remains closed for almost six months in winter,
cutting off the valley from the rest of Kashmir.
We ditch our transport and do what we do best.
Start walking again.
Here we go, the Gurez valley.
Check it out.
There was a whole host of reasons
that constantly evolved and changed about why we couldn't
get into the Gurez, it must be very special.
I think so, yeah.
It seems very secretive. It's almost like
the Shangri-La of India.
I mean, it really is the side of India that
most people would never expect.
The landscape is amazing.
I know the main Gurez valley itself is over there.
This is gorgeous.
I mean, it's unlike any of the landscapes
you've seen anywhere else in India.
This hidden valley flourished with trade,
as the gateway to Central Asia,
up until the 14th Century.
But after Partition, it was closed for 60 years until 2007.
What a remarkable place.
We're finally in the heart of Gurez.
But our destination is further away.
We're headed to Barnoi in Tulail, a sub-valley of the Gurez.
Wow, we're back Ash!
Can't believe it's been seven years since we were here last.
I know.
So, first steps on this, the original Silk Road.
Yeah.
And I wonder if we will recognise the,
the route up, because we went out that way, didn't we?
That's one of the spectacular...
mountain scenery anywhere I've ever been.
I mean, this could be a real,
you know, tourism attraction, couldn't it?
If it was opened up a bit.
But at the same time, you know, you've got
barbed wire fence up there indicating that
you know, Pakistan is not far away.
Kashmir is one of the most militarised frontiers on Earth,
and the Line of Control runs
just a few kilometres north of Gurez,
nearly parallel to it.
That's our destination, the village of Barnoi.
Salaam-Alaikum.
We're meeting Aamir Wani, a Kashmiri photographer.
He's here documenting
some of the oldest inhabitants of Gurez
the Dard Shins.
He introduces us to Shali saab, a guesthouse owner in Barnoi.
Have you been here before?
I've been here before.
Again, for documenting them, because it's sort of a,
I would say, endangered kind of a tribe.
-Because the language is dying. -Yes.
The culture is dying.
The Dards have lived in the Indian subcontinent for over 2,000 years.
Their homeland once stretched from northern Afghanistan
to central Tibet.
How many people live in this village?
-About 1,200. -One thousand two hundred, okay.
How is it different from Kashmiri? The language.
-Language. -Tell us about the language.
How is it different from Kashmiri?
Basically, the people who live here come from Gilgit Baltistan.
-Right. -Right, originally...
This is our tribe.
So, it's quite similar to the Balti language?
-No, no, no it's different. -It's different.
Dard, Dard Shin.
What's "hello" in Dard Shin?
(SPEAKING IN SHINA)
-That means-- -Are you good? Are you well?
(SPEAKING IN SHINA)
"Cha pi",
-which means, have some tea. -"Cha pi"?
Yeah, "cha pi" is "let's have tea."
"Cha pi, tu theek ho ni? Cha pi!"
Only 25,000 Dards now remain in Gurez and Tulail.
With this region open to the world,
their ancient homeland and indigenous way of life
-are now both under threat. -Salaam-Alaikum.
Hand shake.
Amongst our friends and family, we speak only in our Shina language.
Our writers have written books in this language.
-Do you have books? -Yes.
So, our elders teach us about it then we pass it on to our children
to hold on to our culture, to our language.
To respect it, because it's our pride and it shall take us ahead.
-We're going into your house again? -Yeah. So that's his house.
Salaam-Alaikum.
We've been invited by Shali saab to his house for a cup of tea.
A mark of this region's famed hospitality,
and I even get an unusual gift.
-Here's a woollen choga. -Oh, wow!
Wow, this is thank you. Thank you.
What's the name for this?
It's called a, it's called pheran, right?
Yeah, it's a pheran,
and it's made of special fabric which is...
-thicker. -Nice.
-It's got pockets, which is great. -Yeah.
And, you know, you can put your arms inside.
You know, what people do...
Oh, right, so I can do, with the...
-With the kangri, the fire pot. -Yeah.
Put your hands inside and it keeps you warm.
-Right! -Oh!
So you carry your own personal heater
-with you. -Yes.
This is good.
-Very fresh. -Is this wheat?
Yeah, it's wheat.
-Wheat. -Yes.
Grown here in the valley?
-It's grown here? -Oh, yes.
Local product.
(SPEAKING IN FOREIGN LANGUAGE)
Bye-bye.
Leaving the Dard Shins behind,
we're acutely aware of the hard times they have ahead
to maintain a balance between modernity and tradition.
We head back to Dawar, the capital of Gurez,
towards our base camp.
Aamir and a few four-legged locals join us for company.
So, Aamir, how long have you been a photographer?
So, I've been a photographer I've been doing this
-for nine years now. -Okay.
And what got you into that then?
Well, it was basically when I was living in the UK...
people would ask me where I am from and I'd tell them I am from Kashmir.
And often they would say they know Kashmir because...
of the news they see on the TV and...
you know, it's mostly because of conflict.
And the more people I met, the more I realised that
there was a part of Kashmir
which people are not basically able to see
and somehow it's not coming out.
And I took it upon myself as a Kashmiri that
you know, there's something that needs to be done.
And that's when I decided I need to go back and do something
and show people the Kashmir
that I see as a local Kashmiri, as a common man.
Yeah, that's really important.
Is there anywhere around here that is like an iconic photo or...
I mean, there is a nice spot just ahead where you can see the valley
and now the time is right
-because since the sun is setting. -Should we check it out?
Yeah.
Exploring the Tulail valley is very tempting
but we've got a 16-kilometre trek back to the campsite
and a border village to explore tomorrow.
-Should we get set up? -Yeah.
We get a helping hand from Yasin Khan
a curator of adventure experiences in the Himalayas
and our campsite host.
How long have you been doing guiding and camping for?
-Since 1973. -Since 1973! Wow!
Yasin is also a passionate skier
and his son has followed in his tracks.
It's your son represented India in the Winter Olympics?
-Yes. -Fantastic!
Do you reckon you and I could both get into
an Olympic skiing team, Lev?
I think we're probably a bit past that now,
-to be honest. -Oh, yeah.
Sadly.
Yasin has generously offered us the local trout
that this valley is famous for.
-Get a bit of butter. -Rub the butter all over it.
I'm going to salt it up as well.
There we go. So, what are we going to call this, Ash?
Rainbow trout Indian style?
Rainbow a la Kashmir.
-Rainbow a la Kashmir. -A la Gurez.
A la Gurez!
-Rainbow a la Gurez. -It's got a real ring to it,
hasn't it?
Got fish on there. We'll just flip it in a minute.
-It won't take too long. -That'll give it enough heat.
It's nice to be out in the wild, isn't it?
-Just enjoy nature -Yeah,
a little bit of walking and...
spend time in the mountains.
That is what life's all about really.
And it really does feel remote.
The challenge of getting here, the distance,
the permissions
and then
the landscape as well, it's less tamed than other places I've been.
But, you know, it's when you sit around the campfire,
you know, it's all worth it. Isn't it?
Yeah, absolutely.
In terms of the Line of Control and,
and the reasons we are here following this route...
How does it feel different here to you than Ladakh did?
It just feels much more present here, doesn't it?
I suppose, you know, the history of the conflict,
the proximity, the fact that...
you know, decisions made...
hundreds of miles away, if not, you know, if not further
are having a direct impact on...
-people's lives. -Yeah.
I mean, it's also kind of interesting
for me, you know, as a Brit, to come here
and think about the fact that
decisions made all those years ago...
had this huge consequence for the people living here.
And I suppose it must be even, even more relevant for you being of
you know, of mixed heritage to sort of think about that.
Yeah, and I think every time India comes in the news...
it's usually because something has happened up in this region.
But when you come down and see it on the ground,
that's when it really matters.
These are the people that get affected by it.
It's so far removed...
from most people's lives that it's easy to forget
that there's real people on the receiving end of this sort of thing.
-How is that fish looking, mate? -Yeah, let's have a look.
-Reckon we're done? -Yeah.
-Let's have it.
Try not to grill your jacket as well.
That's all right.
-I think it's done. -It's my favourite bit, Ash.
Here you go.
-How romantic! -How romantic!
Not quite what I was expecting you to do but...
nevertheless...
We are now heading north towards Chorwan...
A 10-kilometre hike from our camp, it's a small hamlet
overlooking the last border post near the Line of Control.
As you keep going,
the landscape can change quite a bit.
Just come around the corner and up onto this little plateau,
which seems to be a mix of farming and grazing.
Few horses running around,
the sun feels very alpine
could almost be in Switzerland or something like that.
I think it's one of the most amazing things about Kashmir.
You've got these gigantic mountains, but so much variety.
It just changes everywhere and
the cultures change with it. And that's
what makes it such a rewarding place to travel through.
Bit more speed, bit more fun
livening things up a bit makes the walk that much more enjoyable.
As we get closer, the landscape becomes more barren.
Our trusted guide is the Kishanganga river,
that flows into this valley from across the Line of Control.
So, that is Chorwan, Ash, there.
And basically I think the road just peters out just beyond there.
And then another sort of 600 metres or so...
that is the actual Line of Control.
They could literally throw snowballs
-at each other from up there. -Yeah.
Imagine being a person that lives here because
any time anything happens in Srinagar or Delhi,
any kind of terrorist attack,
it always ramps up the tension on the border.
-Definitely, yeah. -So, I guess for these guys...
you know, they are carrying on their life, grazing their sheep.
Trying to build their houses, and then
something happened hundreds of miles away
and all of a sudden they are...
These are the most vulnerable, aren't they?
Yeah, they are at the risk of
the conflict actually taking fire here.
Chorwan saw heavy shelling until 2003.
It's heavily fenced all around
and under constant surveillance from both countries.
And life in this border village is not easy.
Hello.
-How are you? -I'm fine, sir.
Zainulla Lone, a local from the village
and a former member of the Indian Territorial Army,
has agreed to take us close to the Line of Control.
And where is the end of the road?
-Last -Just here?
-Wooden bridge. -Last wooden bridge
-Can we see it? -Yeah.
When you were in the Army, were you based here?
-Yes, sir. -Okay.
This is our village.
So you defended it, wow! That must be...
The last village in Gurez area.
Yeah.
PoK first village is Dudgai.
-Dudgai? -Yes.
Can you see Dudgai?
-Yes, yes, sir. -Wow!
There is no phone system, no network connectivity.
The power lasts for only seven hours in the day.
-So, no permanent electricity? -No, no, sir.
The Line of Control is ahead of the bridge.
If the livestock end up going to the other side,
they have to come back on their own.
If not, nobody can go fetch them...
because they can fire at us any time.
What are these bunkers here? Are these army positions?
The local government has build this bunker for the people.
-So, it's a bomb shelter? -Yes, sir.
-Wow! Can we see inside? -Yes, sir.
-We might need some light. -Yes, sir.
Let me get my torch out.
-This is more like it. -Wow!
-So, how big is this bunker? -This is the bunker.
-So how many people can fit in here? -Yes, sir.
-Fifty to 60. -Fifty to 60?
Yes, sir.
And how many of these are there in the village?
Six bunkers.
-Six bunkers? -Yes, sir.
Okay.
So when you're in here...
-you're safe from the shelling? -Safe. Yes, sir.
Yeah.
Imagine living in a place where...
that's just something that you think you might have to do.
Yeah.
Just have to go into a bunker.
Yeah, it's terrifying.
You know, being huddled in here with 60 people.
And not knowing whether or not you're going to live or die
and even if you survive, your house might be destroyed.
You could even wake up in a different country
-or under different control. -Oh, yeah, yeah.
When the shelling happened in 2003, how long did it last?
Two months.
-Two months! -Two months!
Yes, sir.
-Continuous. -Whoa!
These bunkers are yet another reminder
that life on the frontlines is fraught
with tension and uncertainty.
We're now heading to the edge of this village
as close to the Line of Control as you can get.
So this is the...
-The last bridge in India? -The last bridge in India.
Last village, last bridge.
-It looks like it's down. -Yes, sir.
The bridge is broken and that's why, people walk over it carefully.
Is that PoK?
-That's PoK, sir. -On the top?
-That's PoK? -Yes, sir, yes, sir.
Wow!
So, do you think, from here,
-the Pakistani army-- -They are watching us?
Watching absolutely, right, sir.
-Right now? -Absolutely.
Hello, Pakistani Army.
See you soon.
See you on the other side.
Good idea, do you think?
Yeah, let's maybe move quickly. Come on.
In case, they've got good snipers.
This is the end of the road, isn't it, really?
From now on in, it's heading south
Punjab, Amritsar and then...
...cross over to Pakistan.
I'm going to miss these mountains though.
Strange to think that in a little while we'll be
seeing the same things from the other side.
Onwards to the plains. The land of the five rivers.
Subtitle Caption by ZestCorp