1 00:00:10,440 --> 00:00:14,360 In the far reaches of North-western India and Pakistan 2 00:00:14,420 --> 00:00:18,300 on the high plateaus surrounded by mountains and rivers. 3 00:00:20,120 --> 00:00:23,160 A rich tapestry of community and culture 4 00:00:23,200 --> 00:00:25,320 have co-existed for centuries. 5 00:00:27,380 --> 00:00:29,180 Once one country, 6 00:00:29,220 --> 00:00:32,280 they are now, neighbours separated by a border. 7 00:00:36,440 --> 00:00:38,200 I'm Levison Wood. 8 00:00:38,440 --> 00:00:40,440 And this is Ash Bhardwaj. 9 00:00:40,480 --> 00:00:43,280 We're explorers and life-long friends 10 00:00:43,320 --> 00:00:46,160 who have travelled to the far corners of the globe 11 00:00:46,200 --> 00:00:48,220 from Sudan to the Himalayas. 12 00:00:48,320 --> 00:00:52,000 We are on a 2500 kilometre adventure. 13 00:00:52,100 --> 00:00:53,200 Starting our journey 14 00:00:53,240 --> 00:00:56,080 from the border villages in North-western Ladakh. 15 00:00:56,120 --> 00:00:57,060 Oh, yeah. 16 00:00:57,480 --> 00:01:01,080 We'll use the Line of control as our roadmap, 17 00:01:01,120 --> 00:01:03,160 heading south through one of the coldest 18 00:01:03,200 --> 00:01:05,060 inhabited places on Earth. 19 00:01:05,100 --> 00:01:07,260 It's absolutely freezing up here. 20 00:01:07,300 --> 00:01:10,360 Travelling through the stunning valleys of Kashmir. 21 00:01:10,400 --> 00:01:12,380 It's almost like the Shangri-La 22 00:01:12,480 --> 00:01:13,460 of India. 23 00:01:14,140 --> 00:01:16,280 And then into Punjab. 24 00:01:16,320 --> 00:01:18,320 (ALL) Sat sri akaal! 25 00:01:18,360 --> 00:01:21,140 Before crossing into Pakistan at Wagah. 26 00:01:22,120 --> 00:01:23,000 Ready? 27 00:01:25,020 --> 00:01:26,080 I can't hear anything. 28 00:01:27,280 --> 00:01:28,420 Welcome to Pakistan. 29 00:01:30,340 --> 00:01:34,180 Our journey will end in the village of Fraono 30 00:01:34,220 --> 00:01:36,100 on the other side of the border. 31 00:01:36,320 --> 00:01:39,480 We'll bear witness to how the border has divided lives 32 00:01:40,020 --> 00:01:42,400 but where hope of a reunion still lives. 33 00:01:43,220 --> 00:01:45,240 We'll navigate dangerous terrain. 34 00:01:46,120 --> 00:01:48,260 Keep going, keep going. Keep going. 35 00:01:49,320 --> 00:01:52,480 Cross into uncharted territory and enter frontier towns. 36 00:01:53,020 --> 00:01:54,420 A lot of military movements up there. 37 00:01:54,460 --> 00:01:56,100 Not necessarily a good look. 38 00:01:56,140 --> 00:01:58,200 That is all Taliban territory. 39 00:01:58,240 --> 00:01:59,300 (SHOOTING) 40 00:02:01,240 --> 00:02:05,400 We're heading off the beaten path on an expedition of a lifetime. 41 00:02:14,200 --> 00:02:16,260 -You're going towards Srinagar? -Srinagar? 42 00:02:16,300 --> 00:02:17,420 You're going to Islamabad? 43 00:02:30,340 --> 00:02:32,460 We have travelled through Ladakh's high passes, 44 00:02:33,260 --> 00:02:35,040 and explored the stunning valleys 45 00:02:35,080 --> 00:02:37,040 of Kashmir along the Line of Control. 46 00:02:37,300 --> 00:02:39,180 Ahead of the bridge is the Line of Control. 47 00:02:39,220 --> 00:02:41,000 Hello Pakistani Army. 48 00:02:43,380 --> 00:02:46,340 We're now in Amritsar, at the halfway mark in our journey. 49 00:02:48,300 --> 00:02:50,160 And for our last few days in India, 50 00:02:50,200 --> 00:02:52,460 we're enjoying the flavours and colours of Punjab. 51 00:02:55,000 --> 00:02:57,320 Before we cross the border to enter Pakistan. 52 00:02:59,380 --> 00:03:00,440 Contrary to popular belief 53 00:03:00,480 --> 00:03:02,320 that "Oh, this is a country where we are in Burqas" 54 00:03:02,360 --> 00:03:04,080 It's wrong! It's not! 55 00:03:05,020 --> 00:03:07,120 Pakistanis are not xenophobic. 56 00:03:07,160 --> 00:03:10,200 We are very welcoming, loving 57 00:03:10,240 --> 00:03:11,380 friendly people. 58 00:03:16,380 --> 00:03:17,440 Punjabi! 59 00:03:19,300 --> 00:03:22,160 Welcome to Punjab! 60 00:03:22,480 --> 00:03:24,120 Punjabi! 61 00:03:26,420 --> 00:03:30,260 This is my third time in Punjab, third time in Amritsar. 62 00:03:30,300 --> 00:03:32,280 Very exciting to be back. 63 00:03:32,320 --> 00:03:37,020 And it's as chaotic, loud, noisy, colourful, as I remember it. 64 00:03:37,180 --> 00:03:39,420 Unlike Lev, this is my first time here. 65 00:03:39,460 --> 00:03:41,300 And I'm incredibly excited! 66 00:03:41,340 --> 00:03:43,000 It is quite a fun ritual, Lev. 67 00:03:43,040 --> 00:03:45,260 -So it's good for gymnastics. -Watch your head. 68 00:03:49,160 --> 00:03:52,420 Punjab has one of the most vibrant cultures in the world. 69 00:03:52,460 --> 00:03:56,400 And nowhere better to experience its rich heritage than right here 70 00:03:56,440 --> 00:03:57,460 in Amritsar. 71 00:03:58,060 --> 00:03:59,440 A bustling city full of life. 72 00:04:01,200 --> 00:04:04,320 Which lies close to the border between India and Pakistan. 73 00:04:06,000 --> 00:04:09,180 It also has a special significance for the Sikh community 74 00:04:09,280 --> 00:04:12,160 being home to the historic Golden Temple. 75 00:04:12,200 --> 00:04:13,120 Hello, Brother! 76 00:04:13,440 --> 00:04:16,440 We make our way there through the noisy old bazaars 77 00:04:16,480 --> 00:04:19,260 that date back to pre-partition Punjab. 78 00:04:26,040 --> 00:04:30,160 This holiest shrine for the Sikhs welcomes people of all faiths 79 00:04:30,200 --> 00:04:34,020 an iconic symbol of inclusion since the 16th Century. 80 00:04:38,280 --> 00:04:41,200 This will be my third time here now. 81 00:04:41,440 --> 00:04:44,060 I remember I came here when I was 21. 82 00:04:44,200 --> 00:04:45,220 When I was... 83 00:04:45,380 --> 00:04:47,160 ...hitchhiking, all across India, 84 00:04:47,200 --> 00:04:51,200 and this place actually left a really deep impression on me. 85 00:04:51,440 --> 00:04:54,000 Because you know, I was a poor backpacker, 86 00:04:54,040 --> 00:04:57,120 no money, I came here and I, I spent three nights here. 87 00:04:57,160 --> 00:05:01,160 That is the culture of hospitality in this Gurudwara, or any Gurudwara. 88 00:05:01,200 --> 00:05:03,320 You are allowed to stay for three nights for free. 89 00:05:03,360 --> 00:05:06,080 So this is the place that's very special to me. 90 00:05:06,120 --> 00:05:08,020 This place is very close to my heart. 91 00:05:08,060 --> 00:05:11,200 (PRAYER IN THE BACKGROUND) 92 00:05:11,240 --> 00:05:16,200 (PRAYER IN THE BACKGROUND) 93 00:05:16,240 --> 00:05:18,480 This holy temple. 94 00:05:20,080 --> 00:05:23,300 Which Sikhs view as the spiritual centre of the world 95 00:05:23,340 --> 00:05:25,480 really feels like a homecoming for me. 96 00:05:28,160 --> 00:05:29,440 There's always this constant 97 00:05:30,240 --> 00:05:33,220 singing and chanting, and there is something it, 98 00:05:33,260 --> 00:05:35,240 you know, eternal about the place. 99 00:05:35,280 --> 00:05:38,100 So it's a place that I get very emotional 100 00:05:38,140 --> 00:05:40,020 about when I come back. 101 00:05:43,020 --> 00:05:45,220 This place served me in my time of need 102 00:05:45,260 --> 00:05:47,160 and now, it's time to give back. 103 00:05:49,100 --> 00:05:50,460 So we head straight for the kitchen. 104 00:05:51,380 --> 00:05:55,140 Free meals have been served to all who visit the Golden Temple 105 00:05:55,180 --> 00:05:58,040 since 1577 at its Langar. 106 00:05:58,240 --> 00:06:01,020 One of the largest community kitchens in the world. 107 00:06:01,140 --> 00:06:04,000 It's run almost entirely by volunteers 108 00:06:04,040 --> 00:06:07,100 who work around the clock to ensure that no one goes hungry. 109 00:06:08,360 --> 00:06:10,360 -That is Dal. -Yes. 110 00:06:11,060 --> 00:06:13,320 How many people eat here every day? 111 00:06:13,360 --> 00:06:14,220 Two lakh. 112 00:06:14,260 --> 00:06:15,300 -Two lakh? -Yeah. 113 00:06:15,340 --> 00:06:16,240 Whoa! 114 00:06:17,080 --> 00:06:18,320 And this is ghee they are putting on? 115 00:06:18,480 --> 00:06:20,400 -Yeah. -Wow! 116 00:06:23,160 --> 00:06:26,380 That's an incredible sight, look at all these pilgrims. 117 00:06:26,420 --> 00:06:30,240 People have come from all over the place to be here. 118 00:06:40,100 --> 00:06:43,040 Seva the tradition of selfless service 119 00:06:43,080 --> 00:06:45,080 is a key tenet of Sikhism, 120 00:06:45,380 --> 00:06:47,120 we decide to join in. 121 00:06:47,400 --> 00:06:50,420 You know I'm not usually one for doing the washing up 122 00:06:50,460 --> 00:06:52,180 but, I don't think I have seen such 123 00:06:52,220 --> 00:06:54,160 an enthusiastic washing up in my life. 124 00:06:54,200 --> 00:06:56,140 You know, it is amazing to be here 125 00:06:56,180 --> 00:06:58,400 and see all these people who volunteer, 126 00:06:58,440 --> 00:07:00,200 and really get stuck in. 127 00:07:04,460 --> 00:07:09,260 (PRAYER IN THE BACKGROUND) 128 00:07:10,080 --> 00:07:13,280 (PRAYER IN THE BACKGROUND) 129 00:07:13,320 --> 00:07:15,360 I know this is Ash's first time here. 130 00:07:16,100 --> 00:07:17,440 Before we arrived here Ash was saying 131 00:07:17,480 --> 00:07:19,400 how much how excited he was about 132 00:07:19,440 --> 00:07:21,300 getting here and... 133 00:07:21,460 --> 00:07:24,440 ...now, he is here and you know, I can see it in his eyes and he is, 134 00:07:24,480 --> 00:07:28,020 that it you know he-- I think this has been a really moving experience, 135 00:07:28,060 --> 00:07:29,360 a very powerful experience for him. 136 00:07:31,220 --> 00:07:34,220 So my family are Hindu, and I was raised by my mum 137 00:07:34,260 --> 00:07:35,300 but she has always made, 138 00:07:35,460 --> 00:07:39,200 made a massive effort for me to be connected to my Indian heritage. 139 00:07:39,360 --> 00:07:41,140 And actually coming here, and, 140 00:07:41,180 --> 00:07:44,380 seeing the Golden Temple despite not being a religious person, 141 00:07:45,180 --> 00:07:49,100 has been a very powerful way for me to feel 142 00:07:49,200 --> 00:07:51,260 connected to my heritage, in a way that I hadn't, 143 00:07:52,340 --> 00:07:54,160 hadn't anticipated at all. 144 00:07:54,320 --> 00:07:55,460 I find it really, 145 00:07:56,440 --> 00:07:57,320 really very moving. 146 00:07:57,360 --> 00:08:00,360 I know my, my mum would've loved to have been here. 147 00:08:15,000 --> 00:08:16,400 Well, after the mountains 148 00:08:16,440 --> 00:08:19,440 and the barren landscapes of Kashmir and Ladakh 149 00:08:19,480 --> 00:08:23,360 it was wonderful to arrive in Amritsar today. 150 00:08:24,140 --> 00:08:26,140 It was a great start to, 151 00:08:27,320 --> 00:08:29,300 the plains, and to, 152 00:08:31,040 --> 00:08:34,060 I guess get a sense of connection with my heritage. 153 00:08:34,400 --> 00:08:36,160 Something I've always looked for, 154 00:08:36,240 --> 00:08:38,420 and it happened in a very unexpected way today. 155 00:08:51,160 --> 00:08:52,080 We start the day 156 00:08:52,120 --> 00:08:54,320 with a Punjabi breakfast at Kanha Sweets. 157 00:08:55,420 --> 00:08:58,160 Rumoured to have the best Puri-Chhole in town. 158 00:08:59,460 --> 00:09:02,300 It comes highly recommended by local comedian Manpreet 159 00:09:02,340 --> 00:09:03,360 who joins us here. 160 00:09:04,440 --> 00:09:05,420 Hey, Brother 161 00:09:06,080 --> 00:09:07,220 Are you going to have some as well? 162 00:09:07,340 --> 00:09:09,020 -Yeah, no worries, you take. -Yeah. 163 00:09:09,060 --> 00:09:10,440 -Have food. -Oh! 164 00:09:12,460 --> 00:09:14,260 This is "Sawair da khaana." 165 00:09:14,300 --> 00:09:16,220 -Sawair? -Sawair, is morning. 166 00:09:16,260 --> 00:09:18,240 -Sawair? -"Sawair da khaana." 167 00:09:18,280 --> 00:09:19,280 Can I change your name? 168 00:09:19,320 --> 00:09:21,060 -Yeah, go on. -As per Punjabi. 169 00:09:21,100 --> 00:09:22,120 Yeah. 170 00:09:22,160 --> 00:09:24,260 -Can you speak again your name? -Levison. 171 00:09:24,300 --> 00:09:26,040 -Le-- -Le-vi-son. 172 00:09:26,080 --> 00:09:27,220 -Levison. -Levison. 173 00:09:27,480 --> 00:09:29,120 Your name is... 174 00:09:29,460 --> 00:09:31,440 -Lakhwinder! -Lakhwinder? 175 00:09:32,140 --> 00:09:33,240 -What does that mean? -Lakhwinder! 176 00:09:33,280 --> 00:09:35,020 -Lakhwinder! -Lakhwinder! 177 00:09:35,060 --> 00:09:36,320 -Lakha Paaji. -You're Lakha Paaji. 178 00:09:36,360 --> 00:09:39,000 -And Ashu Paaji. -Ashu Paaji! 179 00:09:39,040 --> 00:09:40,260 And my name is Manna Paaji. 180 00:09:40,300 --> 00:09:41,320 -Manna? -Manna! 181 00:09:41,360 --> 00:09:44,100 M-A-N-N-A, Manna Paaji. 182 00:09:45,360 --> 00:09:46,400 Lakha Paaji! 183 00:09:47,360 --> 00:09:50,200 Wow, look at that. It's like a balloon. 184 00:09:50,260 --> 00:09:51,140 Thank you. 185 00:09:51,180 --> 00:09:53,080 -Just start. -Great! 186 00:09:53,140 --> 00:09:55,340 The delicious round Puris are fried in pure ghee, 187 00:09:55,380 --> 00:09:58,380 then served with Chhole and a tangy potato curry 188 00:09:58,420 --> 00:10:01,300 with a side of traditional Lassi to quench your thirst. 189 00:10:01,340 --> 00:10:03,340 Food is our motivation. 190 00:10:04,260 --> 00:10:06,100 -Your? -Motivation. 191 00:10:07,160 --> 00:10:11,000 Over mouthfuls of food, we also get a taste of Manna's Punjabi-English. 192 00:10:11,460 --> 00:10:15,480 There is inside talk, my English is little down. 193 00:10:16,140 --> 00:10:19,200 Your Punjabi is little down, let's compromise. 194 00:10:21,280 --> 00:10:24,020 But no, your English is much better than our Punjabi. 195 00:10:24,060 --> 00:10:25,100 -Yeah. -Oh! 196 00:10:25,220 --> 00:10:26,220 Much better. 197 00:10:27,020 --> 00:10:31,060 But, I, I seriously feel today is my English exam. 198 00:10:34,020 --> 00:10:36,460 This rich breakfast may be typical for the locals, 199 00:10:37,000 --> 00:10:39,160 but if Ash and I don't show some restraint 200 00:10:39,200 --> 00:10:40,440 we're likely going to be a little heavier 201 00:10:40,480 --> 00:10:42,140 for the next leg of our journey. 202 00:10:42,200 --> 00:10:43,440 -Puri? -Oh, no, thank you. 203 00:10:43,480 --> 00:10:45,160 -Thank you. -Thank you. 204 00:10:46,200 --> 00:10:47,180 Thank you. 205 00:10:49,240 --> 00:10:51,040 So, this is where they are made? 206 00:10:51,080 --> 00:10:51,440 Hello. 207 00:10:52,140 --> 00:10:54,220 We round off our breakfast experience 208 00:10:54,260 --> 00:10:57,100 by attempting to make some of those fluffy puris. 209 00:10:57,140 --> 00:10:58,480 We are part of a competition, Ash. 210 00:10:59,020 --> 00:11:01,120 -Who is going to make the best-- -Just take the order, 211 00:11:01,160 --> 00:11:03,100 how many puris do you want? Just take order. 212 00:11:03,140 --> 00:11:05,460 These skilled puri makers have been doing this 213 00:11:06,000 --> 00:11:07,280 for over 25 years 214 00:11:07,320 --> 00:11:10,340 making up to 20,000 puris on weekends. 215 00:11:10,380 --> 00:11:12,200 Ours barely make the cut. 216 00:11:14,420 --> 00:11:15,420 Sorry. 217 00:11:15,460 --> 00:11:17,420 Hopefully, no customer complains. 218 00:11:20,120 --> 00:11:21,000 Thanks, guys. 219 00:11:21,040 --> 00:11:22,460 -Keep it up. -Keep up the good work. 220 00:11:24,180 --> 00:11:25,460 After weeks of being in the mountains, 221 00:11:26,000 --> 00:11:27,460 the perks of city life beckon. 222 00:11:28,060 --> 00:11:29,340 And we have help at hand. 223 00:11:29,380 --> 00:11:32,100 -So, Manna Paaji. -Yes? 224 00:11:32,140 --> 00:11:33,440 Is there somewhere we can get freshened up? 225 00:11:33,480 --> 00:11:35,280 We've been on the road for a long time. 226 00:11:35,320 --> 00:11:39,160 It would be nice to get like, a little bit of trim, a shave. 227 00:11:39,220 --> 00:11:41,160 -Massage-- -Oh, okay! You just come! 228 00:11:42,180 --> 00:11:43,020 Manna leads us 229 00:11:43,060 --> 00:11:45,380 to one of the oldest barber shops in Amritsar. 230 00:11:46,000 --> 00:11:47,140 Sat Sri Akal. 231 00:11:47,180 --> 00:11:48,040 Sat Sri Akal. 232 00:11:48,080 --> 00:11:49,000 Sat Sri Akal. 233 00:11:49,040 --> 00:11:51,020 -Please come. -Hello, sir. How are you? 234 00:11:51,480 --> 00:11:53,020 -Yeah. -What is your name? 235 00:11:54,020 --> 00:11:55,060 Narottam Das. 236 00:11:55,100 --> 00:11:57,120 -Narottam Das Paaji. -Narottam Das. 237 00:11:57,160 --> 00:11:58,220 -We'll say Paaji? -Yes. 238 00:11:59,020 --> 00:12:00,400 What is it written outside in Urdu? 239 00:12:00,440 --> 00:12:03,100 In Urdu, it says "Pindi Barber Shop." 240 00:12:03,140 --> 00:12:04,480 My father had come from Pakistan. 241 00:12:05,020 --> 00:12:06,020 He is from Pakistan. 242 00:12:06,060 --> 00:12:10,040 In 1947, when the division happened between India and Pakistan, 243 00:12:10,080 --> 00:12:11,280 that's when he came here. 244 00:12:11,320 --> 00:12:12,280 So he was in Pakistan before that-- 245 00:12:12,320 --> 00:12:14,120 Today, it's been 75 years since the shop started. 246 00:12:14,160 --> 00:12:16,040 This is here since 75 years. 247 00:12:16,080 --> 00:12:16,340 Wow! 248 00:12:16,380 --> 00:12:18,340 So "Pindi" is like "Rawalpindi." 249 00:12:18,380 --> 00:12:20,220 -Yes, Rawal-Pindi. -In Pakistan. 250 00:12:20,320 --> 00:12:21,160 -In Pakistan. -Okay. 251 00:12:21,200 --> 00:12:24,200 -Which service do you want? -I want, just make it shorter... 252 00:12:25,140 --> 00:12:27,040 -And a nice head massage. -Oh, yes. 253 00:12:27,080 --> 00:12:28,060 -Yes? -Okay. 254 00:12:28,100 --> 00:12:29,280 Okay, one, two, three, start! 255 00:12:31,360 --> 00:12:34,420 Narottam has lived in Amritsar for close to years. 256 00:12:35,080 --> 00:12:38,240 His family, like many others directly impacted by Partition, 257 00:12:38,280 --> 00:12:42,120 moved here and re-established their businesses once they crossed over. 258 00:12:44,160 --> 00:12:47,420 You must have heard some stories from your father about Partition, 259 00:12:47,460 --> 00:12:51,320 about what life was like, before the division and. 260 00:12:51,380 --> 00:12:53,340 My father used to have a Muslim friend there. 261 00:12:53,480 --> 00:12:55,460 He used to stay close to where our shop was. 262 00:12:56,080 --> 00:12:57,240 -In Pakistan? Okay. -Yes. 263 00:12:57,280 --> 00:12:59,100 His house was close by, so he used to come to our shop. 264 00:12:59,220 --> 00:13:01,380 Every morning they used to read the newspaper together, 265 00:13:01,420 --> 00:13:05,260 have tea and do some work together. 266 00:13:05,420 --> 00:13:07,380 He helped my father and our family cross the river. 267 00:13:07,420 --> 00:13:09,220 -Okay. -Cross the river. 268 00:13:09,360 --> 00:13:11,180 There was a train ahead. 269 00:13:12,220 --> 00:13:13,440 There was no place to sit in the train, 270 00:13:13,480 --> 00:13:15,320 -as it was full of dead bodies. -Oh, my! 271 00:13:16,100 --> 00:13:17,160 There was a tiny place in between 272 00:13:17,200 --> 00:13:18,420 the compartments that connected the bogies. 273 00:13:18,460 --> 00:13:22,240 My father told me, "There was me and your mother. 274 00:13:22,440 --> 00:13:24,260 So we stood there." 275 00:13:25,360 --> 00:13:28,400 The stories of how people survived Partition 276 00:13:28,440 --> 00:13:30,240 keep changing as we travel. 277 00:13:30,440 --> 00:13:33,140 But the sentiments of loss are always the same. 278 00:13:33,460 --> 00:13:36,340 So, why did you write the name in Urdu? 279 00:13:36,380 --> 00:13:38,000 Was it like a memory 280 00:13:38,040 --> 00:13:40,340 of your family coming from Rawalpindi? 281 00:13:40,380 --> 00:13:43,320 See, people who came from Lahore, added Lahore to their shop name. 282 00:13:43,360 --> 00:13:45,420 People who came from Karachi added "Karachi," 283 00:13:45,460 --> 00:13:48,280 We came from Rawalpindi that is why we added "Pindi" to our shop's name. 284 00:13:49,100 --> 00:13:52,340 Naming their businesses after the home towns they left behind 285 00:13:52,380 --> 00:13:55,020 has been a way for families like Narottam's 286 00:13:55,060 --> 00:13:57,160 to keep the memory of their roots alive. 287 00:13:57,260 --> 00:13:59,140 When you eat two puris, 288 00:13:59,180 --> 00:14:02,260 one glass lassi and take a massage and Death! 289 00:14:04,100 --> 00:14:04,480 He's gone. 290 00:14:05,340 --> 00:14:07,460 I think, I might just fall asleep, this is great. 291 00:14:12,000 --> 00:14:12,440 Can I do mine? 292 00:14:13,380 --> 00:14:14,380 Okay? 293 00:14:18,080 --> 00:14:20,280 This is what happens when you're not the number one star. 294 00:14:20,320 --> 00:14:22,280 You have to do your own beard. 295 00:14:22,320 --> 00:14:26,200 Lev gets some man for him who does his beard and shaves him. 296 00:14:26,240 --> 00:14:28,020 Mate, that was amazing! Honestly! 297 00:14:28,060 --> 00:14:30,140 That was, I was about to fall asleep there. 298 00:14:30,260 --> 00:14:32,100 Thank you so much. Thank you! 299 00:14:32,140 --> 00:14:33,400 -Thank you. -Bye-bye. 300 00:14:33,440 --> 00:14:35,420 Lev had the world's longest haircut. 301 00:14:39,140 --> 00:14:41,240 The Punjabis are famed for their mud wrestling 302 00:14:41,280 --> 00:14:43,480 so before we leave town, we take the opportunity 303 00:14:44,020 --> 00:14:47,160 to get down and dirty with the pehalwans of Amritsar. 304 00:14:47,420 --> 00:14:49,000 This is the place. 305 00:14:49,040 --> 00:14:51,340 Yeah, I've always wanted to come and see an Indian wrestling school. 306 00:14:51,380 --> 00:14:52,280 This is... 307 00:14:53,400 --> 00:14:55,000 Fantastic. 308 00:14:55,120 --> 00:14:57,080 Indian wrestling is a free-style sport 309 00:14:57,120 --> 00:14:59,080 that evolved in the 16th Century. 310 00:14:59,120 --> 00:15:00,380 These guys are filthy already. 311 00:15:00,440 --> 00:15:04,060 And Punjab has produced many wrestling champions in the past. 312 00:15:04,260 --> 00:15:06,280 -So this is literally mud wrestling. -Yeah. 313 00:15:06,320 --> 00:15:07,320 I think it's called Kushti. 314 00:15:07,360 --> 00:15:08,460 -Kushti? -Kushti. 315 00:15:10,340 --> 00:15:13,260 More than a sport, Kushti is a way of life here. 316 00:15:15,100 --> 00:15:17,140 It demands discipline and rigorous training. 317 00:15:18,360 --> 00:15:21,040 And wrestlers from across the villages of Punjab 318 00:15:21,080 --> 00:15:24,020 live and train in these traditional akhaaras. 319 00:15:25,100 --> 00:15:26,360 Getting right down and doing this 320 00:15:26,400 --> 00:15:28,300 in the mud with your face in the mud. 321 00:15:29,220 --> 00:15:30,400 -It's tough-- -Hello, sir. 322 00:15:30,440 --> 00:15:31,440 Oh, hello. How are you? 323 00:15:31,480 --> 00:15:33,080 -Nice to meet you. -How are you, man? 324 00:15:33,120 --> 00:15:33,420 I'm Ash. 325 00:15:33,460 --> 00:15:34,260 -Ashwin. -I'm Lev. 326 00:15:34,300 --> 00:15:36,200 -What's your name? -My name is Rustam Singh. 327 00:15:36,240 --> 00:15:37,080 Rustam Singh? 328 00:15:37,120 --> 00:15:37,380 -Yeah. -Rustam Singh. 329 00:15:37,420 --> 00:15:38,460 -Nice to meet you. -Yeah. 330 00:15:39,000 --> 00:15:40,360 -Is this your school, Rustam? -Yeah, it's, 331 00:15:40,400 --> 00:15:42,120 -Is it? -an old school, 332 00:15:42,160 --> 00:15:44,040 nearly about 100 years. 333 00:15:44,080 --> 00:15:46,220 -Is it? -Yeah. It's Bajrang Bali Akhara. 334 00:15:46,260 --> 00:15:48,000 -Yeah. -Can we meet some of the, 335 00:15:48,040 --> 00:15:49,020 some of the fighters? 336 00:15:49,060 --> 00:15:50,400 -Can you show us? -Yeah, yeah let's go. 337 00:15:51,120 --> 00:15:53,220 -Hi! -He is my Billu Pehalwan. 338 00:15:53,260 --> 00:15:54,300 You are the chief fighter? 339 00:15:54,340 --> 00:15:56,120 -The big fighter? -Yeah, big fighter. 340 00:15:56,160 --> 00:15:57,460 How long have you been wrestling for? 341 00:15:58,040 --> 00:16:00,380 -Ninety two is the start. -Yeah. 342 00:16:01,040 --> 00:16:03,020 -Now, it's 2022. -Wow! 343 00:16:03,060 --> 00:16:04,400 And is there have you, 344 00:16:05,000 --> 00:16:07,260 competed in, like, a national championship? 345 00:16:08,240 --> 00:16:10,140 Desi, Desi Kushti. 346 00:16:10,200 --> 00:16:12,200 -That's nice. -And in a good prize you win... 347 00:16:12,240 --> 00:16:14,300 cash money, gold ring. 348 00:16:14,340 --> 00:16:16,180 -Really? -Yes! 349 00:16:16,220 --> 00:16:17,380 Do you want to show me some moves 350 00:16:17,420 --> 00:16:19,260 -so that I can learn how to do it? -Yeah, no problem. 351 00:16:19,300 --> 00:16:20,040 Yeah. 352 00:16:20,080 --> 00:16:22,400 (SPEAKING IN PUNJABI) 353 00:16:22,440 --> 00:16:25,360 Unfortunately, Lev was too scared 354 00:16:25,400 --> 00:16:28,080 so I'm going to go in and learn how to wrestle 355 00:16:28,120 --> 00:16:30,080 against the champion wrestler 356 00:16:30,120 --> 00:16:33,060 who is about 15 kilos heavier than me 357 00:16:33,100 --> 00:16:34,420 and one of the best in India. 358 00:16:34,460 --> 00:16:38,100 So, you know it's okay Lev, I'll just do this for both of us. 359 00:16:38,360 --> 00:16:40,220 I can just about play rugby, 360 00:16:40,280 --> 00:16:42,180 but wrestling is not my forte. 361 00:16:42,360 --> 00:16:43,240 Okay! 362 00:16:43,280 --> 00:16:46,080 He does, however, like rolling around in the mud with boys. 363 00:16:47,080 --> 00:16:49,460 The soil is considered sacred by wrestlers 364 00:16:50,000 --> 00:16:53,180 and smearing it on the body is not only regarded as a blessing 365 00:16:53,220 --> 00:16:55,280 but also helps improve the grip during a bout. 366 00:16:55,320 --> 00:16:57,340 So I'm just going to go for the speed here. 367 00:16:57,460 --> 00:16:59,080 That is all I can do. 368 00:16:59,140 --> 00:17:00,380 That's it, you've got them! 369 00:17:00,420 --> 00:17:03,460 Okay so this is, this is not going very well. 370 00:17:04,180 --> 00:17:04,480 Now, throw him. 371 00:17:05,020 --> 00:17:07,400 Ash's clearly no match for the champion fighter 372 00:17:07,440 --> 00:17:10,100 and looks about ready to throw in the towel 373 00:17:10,360 --> 00:17:12,320 but Rustam comes to his rescue. 374 00:17:12,360 --> 00:17:13,360 Slow, slow, slow. 375 00:17:19,060 --> 00:17:20,360 Oh, he's putting him up against the smaller lad now. 376 00:17:20,400 --> 00:17:22,220 They have no technique, but they have force. 377 00:17:22,260 --> 00:17:24,000 He's got no technique. 378 00:17:24,120 --> 00:17:26,180 -Technically weak, but got force. -Technically weak, 379 00:17:26,220 --> 00:17:28,100 but he's got mass, yeah. 380 00:17:28,300 --> 00:17:29,400 Some for you, Bobby. 381 00:17:30,220 --> 00:17:31,100 Okay. 382 00:17:38,260 --> 00:17:41,320 Ash's Punjabi genes seem to have kicked in. 383 00:17:44,060 --> 00:17:48,240 He's going all guns blazing against well, his lighter opponent. 384 00:17:49,300 --> 00:17:52,120 Come on, come on. Come on! 385 00:17:56,180 --> 00:17:57,220 You're winner! 386 00:17:59,120 --> 00:18:00,020 Very good! 387 00:18:00,060 --> 00:18:01,420 -Very good, man! -Thank you, thank you, 388 00:18:01,460 --> 00:18:05,240 I basically have a mouthful of the Punjabi earth... 389 00:18:05,460 --> 00:18:08,160 so I feel much closer to the Punjab now. 390 00:18:08,200 --> 00:18:10,060 It was good effort, well played! 391 00:18:13,360 --> 00:18:15,300 While Kushti wasn't for me, 392 00:18:15,340 --> 00:18:19,000 we decide to try another flavour of Punjab Gatka. 393 00:18:19,180 --> 00:18:22,320 It's an ancient martial art and a form of self-defence 394 00:18:22,360 --> 00:18:25,020 that's been battle-tested over centuries. 395 00:18:25,060 --> 00:18:27,020 And it is integral to Sikh heritage. 396 00:18:27,060 --> 00:18:30,160 It is kind of, you know, it's performance and show, 397 00:18:30,200 --> 00:18:34,200 and I mean it's very, very skilful and quite technical. 398 00:18:34,340 --> 00:18:35,300 It's a cross between, 399 00:18:35,340 --> 00:18:41,000 sort of festival fire dancing in Poi and actual fighting. 400 00:18:41,400 --> 00:18:45,080 Once classified as a declining art by UNESCO 401 00:18:45,120 --> 00:18:47,100 Gatka is making a comeback. 402 00:18:49,300 --> 00:18:51,420 -What can we try? -I want to have a go at this. 403 00:18:51,460 --> 00:18:52,300 Hi! 404 00:18:52,340 --> 00:18:53,260 That's easy. 405 00:18:54,040 --> 00:18:55,300 Easy if you know how. 406 00:18:55,340 --> 00:18:57,160 Easy if you know how, right. 407 00:18:57,200 --> 00:18:59,240 Okay, I've got to master this. 408 00:18:59,280 --> 00:19:01,400 This Chakkar or spinning armour 409 00:19:01,440 --> 00:19:04,240 was used to deflect enemy arrows on the battleground. 410 00:19:04,280 --> 00:19:05,220 Okay, ready? 411 00:19:05,260 --> 00:19:06,180 -Yeah. -Which way is clockwise? 412 00:19:06,220 --> 00:19:07,000 It's that way? 413 00:19:07,140 --> 00:19:08,280 Right, right side. 414 00:19:11,440 --> 00:19:12,340 Oh, my God. 415 00:19:13,460 --> 00:19:14,300 Look at that. 416 00:19:18,120 --> 00:19:20,020 -Nice try! -Oh, my word! 417 00:19:20,060 --> 00:19:21,300 Go on, Ash, give it a go! 418 00:19:22,100 --> 00:19:24,380 I thought I was going to master this in two seconds but... 419 00:19:28,200 --> 00:19:29,440 That's more like it. 420 00:19:29,480 --> 00:19:33,180 Ash's commendable first attempt has the crowd applauding. 421 00:19:41,220 --> 00:19:44,020 "Gatka" literally translates to wooden sticks 422 00:19:44,060 --> 00:19:46,040 which are used in sparring matches. 423 00:19:47,360 --> 00:19:49,260 It was developed as a means of warfare 424 00:19:49,300 --> 00:19:51,040 when the Sikhs were fighting the Mughals 425 00:19:51,080 --> 00:19:52,380 during the late 17th Century. 426 00:19:58,020 --> 00:19:58,340 Ready? 427 00:19:59,280 --> 00:20:01,420 Lev and I go head to head once again. 428 00:20:02,100 --> 00:20:03,000 All right. 429 00:20:03,180 --> 00:20:04,100 Okay. 430 00:20:19,440 --> 00:20:21,000 He's the winner. 431 00:20:21,080 --> 00:20:22,000 What? 432 00:20:22,120 --> 00:20:23,320 How is he the winner? 433 00:20:23,360 --> 00:20:25,140 Don't fight again, okay. 434 00:20:26,320 --> 00:20:27,200 Thank you! 435 00:20:27,240 --> 00:20:30,040 "Whoever utters His name, shall be happy, shall be fulfilled." 436 00:20:30,080 --> 00:20:33,240 "Eternal is the Great Timeless Lord." 437 00:20:33,280 --> 00:20:34,360 Thanks, guys! 438 00:20:36,420 --> 00:20:38,140 Thank you, Kushti gang. 439 00:20:40,060 --> 00:20:41,460 Good effort, mate! Well done! 440 00:20:47,440 --> 00:20:50,460 Leaving Amritsar behind, we head towards Attari. 441 00:20:52,000 --> 00:20:54,040 Only three kilometres from the Wagah border 442 00:20:54,080 --> 00:20:56,160 and the last village on the Indian side. 443 00:20:59,020 --> 00:21:00,420 Here, we're meeting the Attariwalas 444 00:21:00,460 --> 00:21:04,320 a family that has a long history as the custodians of this village. 445 00:21:05,060 --> 00:21:06,200 -Hello! -Hi! 446 00:21:06,240 --> 00:21:07,400 -Hi. -Hi, I'm Lev. 447 00:21:07,440 --> 00:21:09,280 -Hello. I'm Jaskiran. -Nice to meet you. 448 00:21:09,400 --> 00:21:11,160 -Same here. -Hello, I'm Ash. 449 00:21:11,200 --> 00:21:13,340 -Ashwin. -I'm Jaskiran, nice to see you. 450 00:21:13,380 --> 00:21:14,400 Very old place? 451 00:21:14,440 --> 00:21:18,360 A very old place, it's 200-years-old place. 452 00:21:19,140 --> 00:21:20,240 This haveli preserves 453 00:21:20,280 --> 00:21:23,480 the legacy of Jaskiran's ancestor Sham Singh Attariwala. 454 00:21:24,280 --> 00:21:28,220 A legendary general who showed great valour in the first Anglo-Sikh war 455 00:21:28,320 --> 00:21:31,160 vowing to die rather than return in defeat. 456 00:21:31,380 --> 00:21:33,160 It's the same sword in that picture. 457 00:21:33,200 --> 00:21:34,220 Yeah, this one. 458 00:21:34,440 --> 00:21:37,300 It used to be, now, the poison is not there. 459 00:21:37,340 --> 00:21:39,080 -It used to be poisoned. -Be poisoned? 460 00:21:39,120 --> 00:21:40,380 -Seriously? Why? -Yeah. 461 00:21:40,420 --> 00:21:42,340 -To kill someone-- -For an immediate kill. 462 00:21:42,380 --> 00:21:43,380 If someone is hurt, 463 00:21:43,420 --> 00:21:45,060 -he should be like-- -And this was-- 464 00:21:45,100 --> 00:21:47,280 This was used to fight against the British? 465 00:21:47,320 --> 00:21:49,140 -Yes. -How do you feel about that, Lev? 466 00:21:49,180 --> 00:21:51,240 I don't know! It's remarkable, isn't it? 467 00:21:53,120 --> 00:21:55,040 -Isn't that amazing? -That is incredible! 468 00:22:00,480 --> 00:22:02,320 So, which way is Pakistan then? 469 00:22:03,080 --> 00:22:05,000 Pakistan is that side. 470 00:22:05,320 --> 00:22:08,020 So that's the, that's the border post. 471 00:22:08,060 --> 00:22:10,200 Right, so you can literally see the border there. 472 00:22:10,240 --> 00:22:13,140 -Yes. -And how far is Lahore from here? 473 00:22:13,280 --> 00:22:17,380 -It is 16 miles, 25 kilometres. -Sixteen miles. Not far, is it? 474 00:22:17,480 --> 00:22:19,100 -Yeah. -A day's walk. 475 00:22:20,240 --> 00:22:25,300 Amritsar is also, 16 miles, and same for Lahore. 476 00:22:25,340 --> 00:22:26,300 So, we are right in the middle 477 00:22:26,340 --> 00:22:28,140 -of the two cities. -Yeah. 478 00:22:28,180 --> 00:22:30,460 You were obviously both too young to remember Partition, 479 00:22:31,000 --> 00:22:32,240 but you must have heard the stories. 480 00:22:32,280 --> 00:22:34,020 -Oh, yes. -About what-- 481 00:22:34,060 --> 00:22:38,100 There was a big massacre and the trains stopped here 482 00:22:38,260 --> 00:22:40,060 and they started killing... 483 00:22:40,200 --> 00:22:43,040 -Right. -Each other, Hindus and Muslims. 484 00:22:44,100 --> 00:22:48,340 The people at the Pakistan side, they started to 485 00:22:48,460 --> 00:22:51,000 cut the people, their arms, 486 00:22:51,100 --> 00:22:54,440 their arms were cut, legs were cut, breasts were cut. 487 00:22:54,480 --> 00:22:59,240 And our family gathered the clothes, and gave them to wear. 488 00:22:59,280 --> 00:23:04,060 They gave them first aid. Many people were died. 489 00:23:04,100 --> 00:23:07,300 So, they made the funeral over there 490 00:23:07,440 --> 00:23:11,340 for the people and they protected the Muslims in our town. 491 00:23:11,380 --> 00:23:12,480 My grandfather said, 492 00:23:13,020 --> 00:23:17,100 "We will not allow anybody to harm them." 493 00:23:17,140 --> 00:23:22,120 So they took them, in the underground basements. 494 00:23:22,160 --> 00:23:23,200 -Here? -Yeah. 495 00:23:30,240 --> 00:23:33,200 How many people did your family hide? 496 00:23:33,240 --> 00:23:35,240 How many Muslims did they save? 497 00:23:35,280 --> 00:23:38,080 They must be near about... 498 00:23:39,300 --> 00:23:42,020 Two hundred or 150. 499 00:23:42,060 --> 00:23:44,400 One hundred fifty to 200 people whose lives, 500 00:23:44,440 --> 00:23:47,160 would have been ended, were it not for the 501 00:23:47,260 --> 00:23:50,180 -compassion of your grandfather. -Yes. 502 00:23:51,400 --> 00:23:53,440 The Partition in 1947 503 00:23:53,480 --> 00:23:57,160 caused one of the largest forced migrations in human history. 504 00:24:02,060 --> 00:24:04,120 Listening to these stories of humanity and courage 505 00:24:04,160 --> 00:24:06,380 even in the worst of times, is humbling. 506 00:24:16,040 --> 00:24:18,040 Indian Railway welcomes you, Ash. 507 00:24:19,100 --> 00:24:21,300 We stop by at the Attari railway station. 508 00:24:23,300 --> 00:24:26,440 Today it lies deserted but until 2019, 509 00:24:26,480 --> 00:24:29,340 it was a busy junction for the Samjhauta Express, 510 00:24:29,380 --> 00:24:31,080 or the Friendship Express. 511 00:24:31,240 --> 00:24:34,240 A train service that connected Delhi and Lahore. 512 00:24:34,400 --> 00:24:37,480 It has since been suspended due to cross-border tension. 513 00:24:38,420 --> 00:24:41,360 We're heading to Attari-Wagah border crossing 514 00:24:41,400 --> 00:24:44,140 that straddles the historic Radcliffe Line 515 00:24:44,180 --> 00:24:47,140 drawn between the two countries in 1947. 516 00:24:51,040 --> 00:24:54,280 So, this is it, this is the border, finally after, 517 00:24:55,300 --> 00:24:58,100 travelling over a 1000 kilometres, 518 00:24:58,140 --> 00:25:01,180 we finally made it to the Attari-Wagah border, 519 00:25:02,020 --> 00:25:04,380 really the only border that's been open. 520 00:25:06,040 --> 00:25:07,180 How are you feeling about this, Ash? 521 00:25:07,220 --> 00:25:08,280 Yeah, really excited, mate. 522 00:25:08,320 --> 00:25:11,320 I think Pakistan is the place, I've heard about. 523 00:25:12,020 --> 00:25:13,300 Some of my family were born in 524 00:25:14,060 --> 00:25:16,420 and to be able to finally go and visit it. 525 00:25:17,220 --> 00:25:21,360 It is almost like the culmination of my life, you know. 526 00:25:21,440 --> 00:25:24,000 But it's a strange experience, because, you know, 527 00:25:24,040 --> 00:25:28,080 I can cross the border as a, as a Brit, as a foreigner, 528 00:25:28,120 --> 00:25:30,300 but for the people that live here in Punjab 529 00:25:30,340 --> 00:25:32,120 you know, for both Indians and Pakistanis, 530 00:25:32,160 --> 00:25:34,200 it's incredibly difficult to, 531 00:25:34,400 --> 00:25:38,140 to get a permit and a visa to visit the country that is right next door 532 00:25:38,180 --> 00:25:40,200 so it is a privilege, 533 00:25:40,480 --> 00:25:42,440 and with that comes a responsibility, you know, 534 00:25:42,480 --> 00:25:45,480 to sort of, tell the story from both sides. 535 00:25:46,100 --> 00:25:47,300 We got a stop sign. 536 00:25:48,440 --> 00:25:50,380 Drawn in less than two months, 537 00:25:50,420 --> 00:25:53,400 the Radcliffe Line ripped through the heart of Punjab. 538 00:25:54,060 --> 00:25:56,380 Even today, farmers in border villages 539 00:25:56,420 --> 00:25:58,320 struggle to access their fields 540 00:25:58,360 --> 00:26:01,180 which now, lie beyond the razor wire fencing. 541 00:26:02,180 --> 00:26:06,120 The Attari-Wagah border is a sensitive, high-security zone 542 00:26:06,160 --> 00:26:08,260 where filming is strictly prohibited. 543 00:26:09,200 --> 00:26:11,460 After travelling through the diverse landscapes of India, 544 00:26:12,140 --> 00:26:14,440 It's now, time to see how the Pakistanis live. 545 00:26:21,000 --> 00:26:22,200 So yeah, that's 546 00:26:22,380 --> 00:26:24,260 we've managed to get across the border now, 547 00:26:24,300 --> 00:26:28,000 and pass the police and army checkpoints 548 00:26:28,040 --> 00:26:29,440 and here we are in Pakistan. 549 00:26:29,480 --> 00:26:34,140 So this is the Pakistani Punjab on the other side of the border. 550 00:26:34,360 --> 00:26:36,440 -I mean it feels the same. -It looks very similar 551 00:26:36,480 --> 00:26:39,060 to the other side doesn't it, so far? 552 00:26:39,100 --> 00:26:41,200 But, I'm am sure things are gonna get, 553 00:26:42,040 --> 00:26:45,300 a bit different the further the further we go. 554 00:26:45,340 --> 00:26:48,420 So onward, Lahore is that way. 555 00:26:51,140 --> 00:26:53,000 We're meeting Zenith Irfan. 556 00:26:53,420 --> 00:26:57,140 At 27 years old, she's the first Pakistani woman biker 557 00:26:57,180 --> 00:26:59,220 to have ridden across the entire country. 558 00:26:59,260 --> 00:27:01,000 -Lovely to meet you. -Welcome to Pakistan. 559 00:27:01,040 --> 00:27:02,120 -Thank you. -So happy to have you here. 560 00:27:02,160 --> 00:27:04,340 -It's hot, it's summer -It's very hot, isn't it? 561 00:27:04,380 --> 00:27:06,460 -It's really hot. -As soon as you enter. 562 00:27:07,000 --> 00:27:08,180 So, I have something 563 00:27:08,220 --> 00:27:10,260 -very special planned for you guys. -Yeah. 564 00:27:10,300 --> 00:27:12,480 For you, I have a motorcycle as you can see over here. 565 00:27:13,020 --> 00:27:16,120 Excellent, it's much better than walking in this heat. 566 00:27:16,160 --> 00:27:17,040 Yes! 567 00:27:28,060 --> 00:27:30,200 Zenith has been riding for 10 years now. 568 00:27:30,240 --> 00:27:32,480 And her travels document the stories of hospitality 569 00:27:33,020 --> 00:27:35,180 and warmth of the people of Pakistan, 570 00:27:35,260 --> 00:27:38,000 encouraging them to chase their dreams. 571 00:27:45,280 --> 00:27:47,460 We're riding on the historic Grand Trunk Road, 572 00:27:48,000 --> 00:27:49,440 one of South Asia's longest roads 573 00:27:49,480 --> 00:27:52,400 covering a distance of more than 2500 kilometres 574 00:27:52,440 --> 00:27:54,160 across four countries. 575 00:27:54,200 --> 00:27:55,120 Hey! 576 00:27:58,100 --> 00:28:01,160 Just like in India, roadside Dhabas are common here too. 577 00:28:06,240 --> 00:28:08,140 We stop on the outskirts of Lahore 578 00:28:08,180 --> 00:28:10,400 to get some respite from the blistering heat. 579 00:28:11,160 --> 00:28:14,160 Brother, three cups of tea! Strong tea! 580 00:28:14,340 --> 00:28:16,100 Strong one which gives us energy, okay? 581 00:28:16,140 --> 00:28:16,420 For sure. 582 00:28:16,460 --> 00:28:19,460 It must be quite difficult as a woman to be riding around. 583 00:28:20,000 --> 00:28:21,160 -It's actually helpful. -Is it? 584 00:28:21,200 --> 00:28:23,220 -It's the opposite. -Really? Why is that? 585 00:28:23,280 --> 00:28:25,440 Because they're very, very respectable towards women 586 00:28:25,480 --> 00:28:27,120 and very, very hospitable. 587 00:28:27,160 --> 00:28:29,160 I mean, if they see you, you are a woman there. 588 00:28:29,200 --> 00:28:30,160 They will invite 589 00:28:30,200 --> 00:28:31,240 -to your houses. -Really? 590 00:28:31,280 --> 00:28:32,440 Even invite you to stay over! 591 00:28:32,480 --> 00:28:34,380 It's a very spiritual journey for me. 592 00:28:34,420 --> 00:28:36,060 I am able to connect 593 00:28:36,100 --> 00:28:38,280 more to my own country when I am on my bike. 594 00:28:38,320 --> 00:28:41,120 I am able to see what Pakistan really is. 595 00:28:41,160 --> 00:28:42,360 So contrary to the popular belief that, 596 00:28:42,400 --> 00:28:44,160 "Oh, this is a country where we are in Burqas" 597 00:28:44,200 --> 00:28:46,280 -It's wrong, it's not, you know. -Yeah. 598 00:28:47,020 --> 00:28:47,440 Thank you, brother. 599 00:28:48,080 --> 00:28:49,160 Thank you, Praaji. 600 00:28:51,300 --> 00:28:55,180 You sort of see a lot less women about than you do in India I think 601 00:28:55,220 --> 00:28:56,400 -Like-- -In India there are a lot of women. 602 00:28:56,440 --> 00:28:57,280 Yeah. 603 00:28:57,320 --> 00:29:00,320 In fact, I wanted to ask you how is it like because-- 604 00:29:00,360 --> 00:29:01,340 Oh, you've never been? 605 00:29:01,380 --> 00:29:02,260 No, I haven't. 606 00:29:02,300 --> 00:29:06,020 It's one of my dreams to ride through Wagah into Amritsar 607 00:29:06,060 --> 00:29:07,100 and explore it on my bike, 608 00:29:07,140 --> 00:29:07,480 -you know. -Yeah. 609 00:29:08,020 --> 00:29:10,100 People say exactly the same on the other side of the border. 610 00:29:10,140 --> 00:29:11,080 They want to come over here 611 00:29:11,120 --> 00:29:12,300 -and explore. -Yeah! 612 00:29:12,340 --> 00:29:14,220 Honestly, all our hearts are the same. 613 00:29:14,260 --> 00:29:16,340 You know like when you travelled through India you must have seen 614 00:29:16,380 --> 00:29:18,000 we all have the same narrative. 615 00:29:18,060 --> 00:29:20,120 It's just that the borders have divided us, you know. 616 00:29:20,160 --> 00:29:22,000 And I just wish that it was border-free area 617 00:29:22,040 --> 00:29:26,000 where I could just ride and explore. It's a dream of every traveller. 618 00:29:26,040 --> 00:29:28,260 Okay, I first came here when I was 21 year old. 619 00:29:28,360 --> 00:29:29,460 Wow! 620 00:29:30,000 --> 00:29:32,200 I hitchhiked all the way from London to India. 621 00:29:32,240 --> 00:29:35,380 And I had my budget was 500 pounds for five months. 622 00:29:36,120 --> 00:29:37,380 -That was it! -How was that like? 623 00:29:37,420 --> 00:29:40,260 I did it. I was just relying on the kindness of strangers 624 00:29:40,300 --> 00:29:41,360 and people looked after me, 625 00:29:41,400 --> 00:29:44,020 and I was sleeping at the side of the road. 626 00:29:44,240 --> 00:29:46,480 I had nothing and everybody looked after me. 627 00:29:47,020 --> 00:29:48,360 It was a really formative journey. 628 00:29:49,220 --> 00:29:52,020 One thing I love about Pakistan is the fact that we have, 629 00:29:52,060 --> 00:29:53,200 I mean, around 630 00:29:53,280 --> 00:29:57,100 more than 60-70 percent of the population is youth. 631 00:29:57,140 --> 00:29:58,140 -Wow! -So, that is 632 00:29:58,180 --> 00:29:59,080 what I love about Pakistan 633 00:29:59,120 --> 00:30:02,080 that we are so, like we are, we are risk takers. 634 00:30:02,120 --> 00:30:04,180 I mean, we are ready to change things around, 635 00:30:04,220 --> 00:30:05,180 -you know. -It's about the energy. 636 00:30:05,220 --> 00:30:06,400 Yeah, I love the energy about it. 637 00:30:06,440 --> 00:30:09,260 That's what I love, and you will witness this. 638 00:30:10,000 --> 00:30:12,440 We have just started, meaning, the party has just started. 639 00:30:12,480 --> 00:30:15,140 Let's get ready for the Pakistan party, Lev. 640 00:30:15,180 --> 00:30:16,060 Bring it on! 641 00:30:19,100 --> 00:30:22,120 We're in Lahore Amritsar's twin city, 642 00:30:22,300 --> 00:30:26,140 the second largest in Pakistan and its cultural capital. 643 00:30:27,280 --> 00:30:29,140 And we're here on a Thursday, 644 00:30:29,180 --> 00:30:32,080 a special day for devotees of Sufism. 645 00:30:32,120 --> 00:30:36,220 -And so, we head to Data Darbar. -Is this the shrine? Data Darbar? 646 00:30:36,260 --> 00:30:37,360 This one? Thank you. 647 00:30:37,400 --> 00:30:38,480 -Shukriya! -Thank you, Shukriya! 648 00:30:41,280 --> 00:30:45,480 Data Darbar is the largest Sufi shrine in south Asia 649 00:30:46,020 --> 00:30:50,300 and one of the best places to see Lahore's famous Qawwaals in action. 650 00:31:01,380 --> 00:31:07,120 (SINGING QAWWALI) 651 00:31:07,160 --> 00:31:11,260 This shrine houses the remains of the 11th Century Sufi saint, 652 00:31:11,300 --> 00:31:13,040 Data Ganj Baksh. 653 00:31:24,400 --> 00:31:27,080 It's been quite a welcome to Pakistan, is it? 654 00:31:27,120 --> 00:31:28,040 -Yeah. -Can you believe it? 655 00:31:28,080 --> 00:31:30,080 It's only been a couple of hours and we have already had the 656 00:31:30,120 --> 00:31:32,480 sort of a glorious musical welcome! 657 00:31:33,200 --> 00:31:36,340 This is a very different form of, of Islam, isn't it? 658 00:31:36,380 --> 00:31:38,220 It's very sensual kind of-- 659 00:31:38,260 --> 00:31:40,080 -Very joyous. -Joyous! 660 00:31:40,160 --> 00:31:44,220 (SINGING QAWWALI) 661 00:31:44,260 --> 00:31:46,340 Once the performance is in full swing 662 00:31:46,380 --> 00:31:48,460 the audience expresses appreciation 663 00:31:49,000 --> 00:31:51,120 by showering money on the performers. 664 00:31:51,240 --> 00:31:54,100 Who remain unfazed and continue singing. 665 00:31:56,340 --> 00:31:59,020 In the midst of it all, the generous audience 666 00:31:59,060 --> 00:32:01,000 showers us with cash as well. 667 00:32:07,100 --> 00:32:11,200 And our enthusiasm gets us a seat with the Qawwaals themselves. 668 00:32:13,180 --> 00:32:16,140 -You singing as well Ash? -Don't know the words. 669 00:32:16,380 --> 00:32:18,060 I would if I could. 670 00:32:27,360 --> 00:32:28,180 Hey, Ash! 671 00:32:28,220 --> 00:32:29,460 We're finally getting paid. 672 00:32:42,440 --> 00:32:45,300 It's Ash's first time in a Sufi shrine 673 00:32:45,340 --> 00:32:47,300 and he gets into the spirit of things. 674 00:33:17,060 --> 00:33:20,200 In Punjabi, they say that anyone who hasn't seen Lahore, 675 00:33:20,240 --> 00:33:21,480 simply hasn't lived. 676 00:33:22,220 --> 00:33:24,080 A few steps into the old city 677 00:33:24,120 --> 00:33:27,080 and we're already mesmerised by its old-world charm. 678 00:33:29,220 --> 00:33:33,320 We are here to meet Salman Rashid, Pakistan's acclaimed travel writer 679 00:33:33,360 --> 00:33:36,020 who has spent time on both sides of the border. 680 00:33:36,360 --> 00:33:38,320 -This is the Delhi gate. -Yes. 681 00:33:38,360 --> 00:33:41,180 I refuse to call it a gate. I call it Darwaza. 682 00:33:41,220 --> 00:33:44,100 In Punjabi as we would say, "Darwazza!" 683 00:33:44,140 --> 00:33:45,100 Dabrazza! 684 00:33:45,260 --> 00:33:49,200 -Is that the Punjabi word for it? -Actually "Darwaza" is Persian. 685 00:33:49,260 --> 00:33:53,140 But in Lahori Punjabi we pronounce the word "Darwazza." 686 00:33:53,180 --> 00:33:55,080 -Darwazza. -Yeah, that's it. 687 00:33:55,180 --> 00:33:59,320 "In the name of God, help this blind dependent man." 688 00:33:59,420 --> 00:34:03,020 So your family have always lived in Lahore or-- 689 00:34:03,060 --> 00:34:06,040 My parents came from Jalandhar. 690 00:34:06,080 --> 00:34:07,480 -From Jalandhar? -That's where my father was born. 691 00:34:08,240 --> 00:34:09,240 There you go. 692 00:34:11,300 --> 00:34:13,380 Salman leads us to a vantage point 693 00:34:13,420 --> 00:34:16,240 that has birds-eye views of the Walled City of Lahore. 694 00:34:16,280 --> 00:34:18,200 And the Wazir Khan mosque, 695 00:34:18,240 --> 00:34:21,280 built in the 17th Century for Emperor Shah Jahan. 696 00:34:22,400 --> 00:34:26,060 Your family moved from Jalandhar, to here, 697 00:34:26,300 --> 00:34:27,440 and... 698 00:34:28,180 --> 00:34:30,400 Did that happen a lot, like homes just 699 00:34:31,060 --> 00:34:33,160 were taken over by someone else who moved in? 700 00:34:33,200 --> 00:34:34,380 There wasn't any recompense. 701 00:34:34,420 --> 00:34:36,220 Did they have somewhere to move to here? 702 00:34:36,460 --> 00:34:40,040 My grandparents were killed in the riots. 703 00:34:40,120 --> 00:34:43,120 My great grandfather and the family servant, 704 00:34:43,160 --> 00:34:46,000 his wife and their five children, they were all killed there. 705 00:34:46,040 --> 00:34:48,480 And I met the man in 2008 706 00:34:49,020 --> 00:34:53,260 who was then years old whose father led this massacre. 707 00:34:53,300 --> 00:34:54,400 -Really? -Yes. 708 00:34:54,440 --> 00:34:56,120 And you know, the first thing 709 00:34:56,160 --> 00:34:59,460 Mohinder Pratap Sehgal was his name, this man's name that I met. 710 00:35:00,040 --> 00:35:01,080 -Yeah. -The first thing he said 711 00:35:01,120 --> 00:35:04,160 to me was "First of all, I have to seek your forgiveness 712 00:35:04,260 --> 00:35:07,060 because all this was done by my father." 713 00:35:07,100 --> 00:35:09,220 -I mean, this was incredible. -Wow! 714 00:35:09,260 --> 00:35:14,320 He said that his father, died ruing the day he had done 715 00:35:14,440 --> 00:35:17,000 what he had done to my grandparents. 716 00:35:17,040 --> 00:35:19,280 And he said, "He kept saying they were good people. 717 00:35:19,320 --> 00:35:21,220 I shouldn't have done it." They were neighbours! 718 00:35:22,100 --> 00:35:25,020 They lived a few houses away from each other. 719 00:35:25,120 --> 00:35:26,020 So, they knew each other? 720 00:35:26,060 --> 00:35:28,280 And he just decided that day that he would do it. 721 00:35:28,480 --> 00:35:31,240 He led a mob and... 722 00:35:32,180 --> 00:35:33,280 That's it. 723 00:35:35,220 --> 00:35:36,380 And did the division. 724 00:35:37,280 --> 00:35:41,400 Did it become so bitter because of the violence of Partition? 725 00:35:42,140 --> 00:35:45,360 That is what made the relation between India and Pakistan 726 00:35:45,400 --> 00:35:46,360 so vicious? 727 00:35:46,400 --> 00:35:50,380 No it was not bitter immediately after Partition as well, 728 00:35:50,420 --> 00:35:53,340 because in the 's my mother would go to Amritsar. 729 00:35:53,400 --> 00:35:56,400 -Really? -To watch Indian films. 730 00:35:56,440 --> 00:35:59,380 -Right. -And until 1965, things were easy. 731 00:35:59,420 --> 00:36:02,480 People were coming and going, there was no fence on the border. 732 00:36:03,020 --> 00:36:03,280 Yeah. 733 00:36:03,320 --> 00:36:07,060 But strangely enough, relationships are not, 734 00:36:07,120 --> 00:36:09,260 I mean, it's just impossible 735 00:36:09,300 --> 00:36:13,120 to destroy the relationship between the same people. 736 00:36:13,160 --> 00:36:14,460 We are the same people. 737 00:36:19,480 --> 00:36:22,140 So, Pakistan had this, 738 00:36:22,400 --> 00:36:25,440 narrative developed about it in the last 30 years 739 00:36:25,480 --> 00:36:28,360 about it being intolerant and extremism and so on. 740 00:36:28,420 --> 00:36:32,420 You know, this theory, this, 741 00:36:33,320 --> 00:36:39,080 this fright created of xenophobic Pakistanis 742 00:36:39,120 --> 00:36:43,280 has been officially created by the government of Pakistan. 743 00:36:43,320 --> 00:36:47,000 I accuse the government of this great lie! 744 00:36:47,140 --> 00:36:48,320 We are very... 745 00:36:49,040 --> 00:36:52,280 Welcoming, loving, friendly people. 746 00:36:55,160 --> 00:36:57,080 I'm so excited to be in Pakistan. 747 00:36:57,120 --> 00:36:59,020 -There's just so much to see here. -Yes. 748 00:36:59,060 --> 00:37:04,460 And you don't hear about it because the stories of Pakistan 749 00:37:05,000 --> 00:37:09,020 the stories of its history and its beauty aren't told. 750 00:37:09,240 --> 00:37:11,180 When we were travelling through India 751 00:37:11,300 --> 00:37:13,480 particularly in Punjab, people were so curious 752 00:37:14,020 --> 00:37:15,340 -they wanted to come and see Lahore. -Yeah. 753 00:37:15,380 --> 00:37:18,480 They want to come and spend time in Pakistan and meet Pakistanis. 754 00:37:19,020 --> 00:37:20,300 There is such a hunger between these two countries 755 00:37:20,340 --> 00:37:21,320 to get to know each other. 756 00:37:21,360 --> 00:37:24,260 The people who divided this country 757 00:37:25,080 --> 00:37:28,120 are free to come and go, and we who live here 758 00:37:28,160 --> 00:37:30,000 we have this iron curtain. 759 00:37:30,040 --> 00:37:32,260 And I call this the real iron curtain 760 00:37:32,420 --> 00:37:35,460 drawn and separating the two of us. 761 00:37:36,360 --> 00:37:37,480 The one of us! 762 00:37:38,120 --> 00:37:42,120 Well, let's hope for better times and better relations ahead. 763 00:37:43,000 --> 00:37:44,020 Let's hope so. 764 00:37:44,060 --> 00:37:45,340 -Thanks for sharing your story. -Yeah. 765 00:37:45,380 --> 00:37:47,300 -Thanks for bringing us up here. -What a great view. 766 00:37:47,340 --> 00:37:48,140 Thank you. 767 00:37:59,060 --> 00:38:03,080 For dinner, we make our way to Lahore's food hub Laxmi Chowk 768 00:38:03,180 --> 00:38:06,220 to see what Pakistan's famous street food has to offer. 769 00:38:07,040 --> 00:38:09,240 Immediately, we're taken in by the sights 770 00:38:09,280 --> 00:38:11,200 and sounds of this busy street. 771 00:38:15,220 --> 00:38:16,220 Looks like a lot of meat. 772 00:38:16,260 --> 00:38:18,080 Yeah, a lot of meat, a lot of 773 00:38:18,120 --> 00:38:19,280 -tomatoes -Yeah, yeah. 774 00:38:19,320 --> 00:38:21,040 That is what it looks like. 775 00:38:25,280 --> 00:38:27,000 -Hello, how are you? -Salaam-alaikum. 776 00:38:27,100 --> 00:38:28,020 Salaam-alaikum. 777 00:38:28,100 --> 00:38:29,300 What, what are they? 778 00:38:30,020 --> 00:38:32,040 -So, this is the kidney. -The kidney! 779 00:38:33,080 --> 00:38:34,360 -And what is this? -Heart. 780 00:38:34,400 --> 00:38:35,420 -Heart? -Yes. 781 00:38:35,460 --> 00:38:38,000 -And this? -Testicles. 782 00:38:39,260 --> 00:38:41,160 -Testicles? -Testicles! 783 00:38:41,200 --> 00:38:42,280 Yeah, lovely! 784 00:38:42,380 --> 00:38:44,180 -We'll have two of those. -And-- 785 00:38:44,220 --> 00:38:45,100 Chops. 786 00:38:45,140 --> 00:38:46,240 -Yeah, I would love some chops. -And what's this one? 787 00:38:46,280 --> 00:38:47,120 Brain. 788 00:38:47,340 --> 00:38:48,080 Brain? 789 00:38:48,120 --> 00:38:49,180 Yeah, I think we're short on brains. 790 00:38:49,220 --> 00:38:51,000 -We'll have a brain. -We'll have a brain. 791 00:38:51,060 --> 00:38:52,020 Okay, perfect. 792 00:38:52,060 --> 00:38:55,140 Well, looks like we are going to have a real offaly feast! 793 00:38:55,260 --> 00:38:57,420 -I have eaten offal before but -Yeah. 794 00:38:58,000 --> 00:38:59,460 Have you ever had "----" before? 795 00:39:00,000 --> 00:39:02,020 I think I've had them in Greece once. 796 00:39:02,060 --> 00:39:03,440 -Okay? -Yeah, sure. 797 00:39:04,080 --> 00:39:05,140 And then it goes like this? 798 00:39:05,240 --> 00:39:07,420 -Let's give it a go, shall we? -Give it a try. 799 00:39:09,060 --> 00:39:13,260 So the first time I came here, Ash, back in 2014, 800 00:39:14,160 --> 00:39:18,120 I took the train from Peshawar to Lahore. 801 00:39:18,240 --> 00:39:22,180 I ate some street food, it was just something like meat on a stick. 802 00:39:22,360 --> 00:39:25,120 It was handed through the window on this train. 803 00:39:25,160 --> 00:39:26,440 Which I ate and it was fine. 804 00:39:27,120 --> 00:39:28,280 Ten minutes later. 805 00:39:29,040 --> 00:39:32,120 Honestly, I've never felt so ill in my entire life. 806 00:39:32,280 --> 00:39:36,020 So when I got off this train, I sort of stumbled off the train. 807 00:39:36,060 --> 00:39:38,360 I was, you know, puking and everything else. 808 00:39:39,020 --> 00:39:42,220 And I basically fainted in the gutter 809 00:39:43,200 --> 00:39:48,200 at a place called Regal Chowk which is like the central square. 810 00:39:48,320 --> 00:39:50,240 And I was, I was passed out and basically 811 00:39:50,280 --> 00:39:51,440 -some tourists-- -Hello? 812 00:39:52,160 --> 00:39:54,040 -Yeah, everything. -Yeah, everything. 813 00:39:57,060 --> 00:40:00,400 And, they basically, these two tourists, thankfully, rescued me 814 00:40:00,440 --> 00:40:03,020 they took me inside this hotel. 815 00:40:03,080 --> 00:40:05,100 It took me like, two days, to recover. 816 00:40:05,160 --> 00:40:07,080 -Jesus! -I lost so much weight. 817 00:40:07,180 --> 00:40:10,300 So you've really made me look forward to this now. 818 00:40:10,340 --> 00:40:11,300 This will be fine. 819 00:40:11,340 --> 00:40:13,200 -Indeterminate meat. -Very well cooked. 820 00:40:13,280 --> 00:40:14,440 The problem with that, it was on a stick 821 00:40:14,480 --> 00:40:17,160 and it had probably been on a stick for about three days. 822 00:40:17,200 --> 00:40:19,400 -But this is perfectly fresh. -Yeah, it's very true. 823 00:40:20,140 --> 00:40:23,100 On the menu tonight is a dish made from offal, 824 00:40:23,180 --> 00:40:25,120 the internal organs of an animal. 825 00:40:25,260 --> 00:40:27,180 This dish, called Taka Tak, 826 00:40:27,360 --> 00:40:30,300 derives its name from the sound of the sharp blades 827 00:40:30,340 --> 00:40:31,400 hitting the griddle. 828 00:40:41,200 --> 00:40:42,480 -This is ours? -This is for us, yeah? 829 00:40:43,020 --> 00:40:44,380 Yeah. Perfect! 830 00:40:44,440 --> 00:40:46,160 -Yeah! -Looks pretty good, actually. 831 00:40:46,200 --> 00:40:47,260 -You've got it? -Yeah. 832 00:41:07,180 --> 00:41:09,240 -All right. -Yeah, we've got a bit of bread. 833 00:41:09,400 --> 00:41:11,260 Yeah, I'm going to try it straight up. 834 00:41:12,280 --> 00:41:15,020 -Bon Appetit. -Yeah, enjoy your 835 00:41:15,300 --> 00:41:16,420 chopped testicles. 836 00:41:19,440 --> 00:41:21,000 That's a lot of spice. 837 00:41:21,080 --> 00:41:22,340 That is a lot of spice that is good. 838 00:41:23,160 --> 00:41:26,240 It tastes a bit like, really spicy curry Bolognese. 839 00:41:26,280 --> 00:41:27,160 Yeah, it does. 840 00:41:27,200 --> 00:41:30,360 Yeah, exactly that but really, really, really spicy. 841 00:41:31,260 --> 00:41:32,260 We're stuffed 842 00:41:32,300 --> 00:41:36,000 but in the spirit of adventure, we're game for one final dish. 843 00:41:36,040 --> 00:41:37,320 - What's this? - Brain, brain. 844 00:41:37,420 --> 00:41:40,140 Brain what though? Brain curry? Brain stew? 845 00:41:40,440 --> 00:41:42,400 -Brain masala. -Brain masala. 846 00:41:42,440 --> 00:41:44,460 -Brain masala! -Lovely! 847 00:41:45,020 --> 00:41:45,400 Thanks. 848 00:41:49,360 --> 00:41:52,080 Our main course comes with an interesting side. 849 00:41:52,160 --> 00:41:54,340 That turns out to be quite an unexpected treat. 850 00:41:55,040 --> 00:41:56,280 But a very welcome one! 851 00:41:57,060 --> 00:41:58,180 I'm really enjoying Lahore. 852 00:41:58,220 --> 00:42:00,080 Not a bad first day in Pakistan, is it? 853 00:42:00,120 --> 00:42:00,360 Yeah. 854 00:42:00,460 --> 00:42:03,020 That we've had music, we've had singing. 855 00:42:03,060 --> 00:42:04,200 Oh, this is my favourite bit. 856 00:42:05,200 --> 00:42:06,060 Oh, yeah! 857 00:42:15,080 --> 00:42:16,320 My friend, we have to go. 858 00:42:16,360 --> 00:42:17,460 Yeah, we have to go now. 859 00:42:18,080 --> 00:42:19,480 -Thank you. Shukriya. -Oh, wow! 860 00:42:20,100 --> 00:42:21,260 -Thank you very much, sir. -He won't let me go. 861 00:42:21,300 --> 00:42:22,160 -Thank you. -Thank you. 862 00:42:22,260 --> 00:42:23,420 That was excellent! 863 00:42:26,180 --> 00:42:28,260 We got a bit carried away with the massage 864 00:42:28,300 --> 00:42:30,160 so we've got to rush to the train station now. 865 00:42:30,200 --> 00:42:33,080 So let's jump in one of these rickshaws and go. 866 00:42:33,220 --> 00:42:35,020 -Yeah. This one? -This one? 867 00:42:35,340 --> 00:42:36,400 Train station? 868 00:42:37,180 --> 00:42:38,380 Yeah, okay, let's go! 869 00:42:43,440 --> 00:42:45,200 -Okay. -Okay. 870 00:42:46,020 --> 00:42:48,120 -Let's go. -Let's go. 871 00:42:49,100 --> 00:42:51,280 After that strictly non-vegetarian meal 872 00:42:51,360 --> 00:42:53,280 we head to Lahore railway station 873 00:42:53,320 --> 00:42:55,400 for the next part of our journey in Pakistan. 874 00:42:55,480 --> 00:42:57,380 We are just headed for the train now. 875 00:42:57,440 --> 00:43:00,260 Should be down here apparently it's, it's arrived. 876 00:43:00,300 --> 00:43:03,360 It's the overnight train to Peshawar. 877 00:43:03,440 --> 00:43:05,400 This is very much the Frontier. 878 00:43:06,080 --> 00:43:08,080 North-West Frontier Province. 879 00:43:09,260 --> 00:43:11,160 Very close to the border with Afghanistan. 880 00:43:11,200 --> 00:43:16,200 You know, this is for many, many decades been 881 00:43:16,240 --> 00:43:22,060 a hotbed for Islamic terrorism, extremism. 882 00:43:22,300 --> 00:43:24,100 We're going to go. That's where we're going to go 883 00:43:24,140 --> 00:43:27,400 to see what the reality of life is like on the frontier. 884 00:43:29,200 --> 00:43:31,040 I think this is our train, Ash. 885 00:43:31,100 --> 00:43:34,460 Yeah, I just wanna soak in a moment of being here you know, this is a, 886 00:43:35,140 --> 00:43:38,000 a lot of history happened in this train station in Partition. 887 00:43:38,040 --> 00:43:41,280 A lot of awful stories happened in relation to this place, so, 888 00:43:42,040 --> 00:43:43,180 it's just amazing to be here. 889 00:43:43,220 --> 00:43:46,160 It's a place I've thought about and imagined so many times. 890 00:43:48,200 --> 00:43:51,020 Yeah, this means a lot to me, this far in the journey. 891 00:43:54,180 --> 00:43:56,080 Yes, yes. Move forward. 892 00:43:57,100 --> 00:43:58,160 Yeah? This way? 893 00:43:58,220 --> 00:44:00,380 Welcome, please come here. 894 00:44:01,300 --> 00:44:03,160 We're on board the Khyber Mail, 895 00:44:03,220 --> 00:44:05,340 one of Pakistan's oldest passenger trains 896 00:44:05,440 --> 00:44:09,380 that's been running for 102 years between Karachi and Peshawar. 897 00:44:10,460 --> 00:44:12,240 -Yeah, that's empty. -This one? 898 00:44:12,440 --> 00:44:14,000 -Yes. -Yes. 899 00:44:14,480 --> 00:44:16,020 Lovely. Thank you. 900 00:44:17,060 --> 00:44:19,080 Yeah, we've got a, we've got a cabin! 901 00:44:20,100 --> 00:44:22,380 This is travelling in style! 902 00:44:25,100 --> 00:44:26,360 -Air-con, fans. -Lovely! 903 00:44:27,000 --> 00:44:28,100 This will do, won't it? 904 00:44:30,060 --> 00:44:31,140 Welcome to Pakistan. 905 00:44:31,180 --> 00:44:32,320 -Thank you. -Pakistan Railways, 906 00:44:32,380 --> 00:44:35,020 -specially you, sir. -Thank you! 907 00:44:35,300 --> 00:44:37,020 Off on a train adventure! 908 00:44:37,060 --> 00:44:39,060 Subtitle Caption by ZestCorp