1 00:00:10,420 --> 00:00:14,340 In the far reaches of Northwestern India and Pakistan 2 00:00:14,420 --> 00:00:18,280 on the high plateaus surrounded by mountains and rivers 3 00:00:20,120 --> 00:00:23,080 a rich tapestry of community and culture 4 00:00:23,140 --> 00:00:25,260 have co-existed for centuries. 5 00:00:27,380 --> 00:00:32,280 Once one country, they are now neighbours separated by a border. 6 00:00:36,440 --> 00:00:38,160 I'm Levison Wood 7 00:00:38,420 --> 00:00:40,260 and this is Ash Bhardwaj. 8 00:00:40,380 --> 00:00:43,260 We're explorers and life-long friends 9 00:00:43,320 --> 00:00:46,100 who have travelled to the far corners of the globe 10 00:00:46,140 --> 00:00:48,160 from Sudan to the Himalayas. 11 00:00:48,280 --> 00:00:51,440 We are on a 2,500 kilometre adventure. 12 00:00:51,480 --> 00:00:53,160 Starting our journey 13 00:00:53,200 --> 00:00:56,080 from the border villages in Northwestern Ladakh. 14 00:00:56,120 --> 00:00:57,040 Oh, yeah. 15 00:00:57,480 --> 00:01:00,460 We'll use the Line of Control as our roadmap, 16 00:01:01,040 --> 00:01:05,020 heading south through one of the coldest inhabited places on Earth. 17 00:01:05,060 --> 00:01:07,200 It's absolutely freezing up here. 18 00:01:07,240 --> 00:01:10,340 Travelling through the stunning valleys of Kashmir. 19 00:01:10,380 --> 00:01:13,440 It's almost like the Shangri-La of India. 20 00:01:14,120 --> 00:01:16,140 And then into Punjab. 21 00:01:16,180 --> 00:01:18,260 (ALL) Sat Sri Akaal! 22 00:01:18,300 --> 00:01:21,140 Before crossing into Pakistan at Wagah. 23 00:01:22,100 --> 00:01:22,480 Ready? 24 00:01:25,020 --> 00:01:26,120 I can't hear anything. 25 00:01:27,260 --> 00:01:28,380 Welcome to Pakistan. 26 00:01:30,340 --> 00:01:34,060 Our journey will end in the village of Fraono 27 00:01:34,120 --> 00:01:36,060 on the other side of the border. 28 00:01:36,300 --> 00:01:39,400 We'll bear witness to how the border has divided lives 29 00:01:40,020 --> 00:01:42,320 but where hope of a reunion still lives. 30 00:01:43,180 --> 00:01:45,200 We'll navigate dangerous terrain. 31 00:01:46,100 --> 00:01:48,140 Keep going! Keep going! Keep going! 32 00:01:49,300 --> 00:01:52,440 Cross into uncharted territory and enter frontier towns. 33 00:01:52,480 --> 00:01:54,320 A lot of military movements up there. 34 00:01:54,360 --> 00:01:56,060 Not necessarily a good look. 35 00:01:56,100 --> 00:01:58,220 That is all Taliban territory. 36 00:02:01,200 --> 00:02:05,380 We're heading off the beaten path on an expedition of a lifetime. 37 00:02:14,180 --> 00:02:16,200 -You're going towards Srinagar? -Srinagar. 38 00:02:16,240 --> 00:02:17,380 You're going to Islamabad? 39 00:02:31,160 --> 00:02:34,480 We've travelled through northwest India from Ladakh through Kashmir 40 00:02:35,100 --> 00:02:37,320 and have crossed over from Amritsar to Lahore. 41 00:02:37,460 --> 00:02:40,440 Now, we're on the final stretch of our expedition. 42 00:02:41,220 --> 00:02:43,300 We started this journey with drama 43 00:02:43,440 --> 00:02:45,240 and we're going to finish it with drama. 44 00:02:47,280 --> 00:02:49,120 Whilst I'm driving past Bin Laden's house, 45 00:02:49,160 --> 00:02:51,480 Lev is probably 30,000 feet in the air. 46 00:02:52,020 --> 00:02:54,240 Making our way through Northwestern Pakistan. 47 00:02:54,360 --> 00:02:57,260 Pakistan's best kept secret. Well, I'm intrigued. 48 00:02:58,220 --> 00:03:00,000 I think you started a fire, Ash. 49 00:03:01,120 --> 00:03:05,120 To reach our final destination very close to where we started from. 50 00:03:06,400 --> 00:03:09,080 We've pretty much come full circle. What a journey! 51 00:03:25,380 --> 00:03:26,380 Lev's still having a nap. 52 00:03:26,420 --> 00:03:28,160 So I'm going to go for a bit of an explore 53 00:03:28,200 --> 00:03:29,420 as what I can see in the train. 54 00:03:35,360 --> 00:03:37,440 We're about two hours from Peshawar 55 00:03:37,480 --> 00:03:40,420 and I have come out to have a look and it's stunning! 56 00:03:42,240 --> 00:03:45,200 Really different to the Punjab that we have left behind. 57 00:03:47,140 --> 00:03:49,280 Instead of being very flat and lush 58 00:03:50,120 --> 00:03:54,400 it's much rockier, mountainous, drier. 59 00:03:56,060 --> 00:03:58,080 Very excited to get to Peshawar. 60 00:04:03,140 --> 00:04:06,040 Peshawar is somewhere I wanted to visit for a long time 61 00:04:06,460 --> 00:04:09,300 even though it's right up on the border with Afghanistan 62 00:04:10,120 --> 00:04:12,160 it has a lot of relevance for my family. 63 00:04:14,180 --> 00:04:16,100 My grandad's cousin, 64 00:04:17,100 --> 00:04:19,220 was arrested in Peshawar. 65 00:04:20,120 --> 00:04:22,280 He was on his way to Kabul 66 00:04:23,120 --> 00:04:25,300 as part of this conspiracy called the "Ghadar Conspiracy", 67 00:04:25,340 --> 00:04:27,480 which was an effort to start a mutiny 68 00:04:28,020 --> 00:04:30,260 to overthrow the British rule in India. 69 00:04:31,020 --> 00:04:34,260 He was arrested at Peshawar train station in 1914 70 00:04:34,440 --> 00:04:36,140 and sentenced to death. 71 00:04:37,380 --> 00:04:39,220 He eventually spent his life in prison. 72 00:04:39,260 --> 00:04:42,200 He was in jail for 20 odd years. 73 00:04:44,020 --> 00:04:46,240 So, I've always wanted to go, and visit Peshawar. 74 00:04:46,360 --> 00:04:48,140 I never thought I'd be able to do it 75 00:04:48,180 --> 00:04:50,400 but I'm going to go to the very place that he was arrested. 76 00:04:50,480 --> 00:04:52,180 Peshawar train station. 77 00:04:54,460 --> 00:04:56,440 Trains and the old Indian railway system, 78 00:04:57,120 --> 00:04:58,060 I love it. 79 00:05:00,260 --> 00:05:02,420 Sir, someone would have come to see you. 80 00:05:11,320 --> 00:05:13,360 -How are you? -Hi, I'm fine. 81 00:05:18,160 --> 00:05:20,240 So, I've been near railway tracks before, 82 00:05:20,280 --> 00:05:23,120 seeing trains approach very close. 83 00:05:23,220 --> 00:05:26,440 Never have I been right in the engine of the train. 84 00:05:28,100 --> 00:05:29,340 And it's amazing. 85 00:05:31,160 --> 00:05:34,180 It's amazing how late people wait before they get out of the way. 86 00:05:41,080 --> 00:05:44,060 -Can I press? -Yes, why not? Sure. 87 00:05:45,140 --> 00:05:48,200 (HORN SOUND) 88 00:05:48,380 --> 00:05:51,040 Five-year-old me would be so happy 89 00:05:51,080 --> 00:05:53,000 that I finally achieved that in my life. 90 00:05:53,040 --> 00:05:55,220 -Thank you so much. Thank you. -My pleasure. Welcome. 91 00:05:56,040 --> 00:05:57,420 Right, onto Peshawar. 92 00:06:00,480 --> 00:06:05,280 So, we have just arrived in Peshawar station. 93 00:06:07,300 --> 00:06:10,280 Just woken up myself. I'm a bit tired. You have been up for a while. 94 00:06:10,320 --> 00:06:12,000 I mean you've been driving the train, isn't it? 95 00:06:12,040 --> 00:06:13,140 I have been driving the train 96 00:06:13,180 --> 00:06:14,420 and I'm very excited about being here. 97 00:06:14,460 --> 00:06:16,240 This is very special place to me, Lev. 98 00:06:16,280 --> 00:06:19,040 How many hours is that, Ash? Is that about 12? 99 00:06:19,080 --> 00:06:20,220 -Twelve hours -Twelve hours, 100 00:06:20,260 --> 00:06:23,320 to get here to Peshawar station. 101 00:06:23,360 --> 00:06:26,400 And this is it. We're in the North-West Frontier. 102 00:06:26,480 --> 00:06:28,300 I never thought I'd come to Peshawar 103 00:06:28,440 --> 00:06:31,200 because it's so hard for me to get a visa to Pakistan. 104 00:06:31,340 --> 00:06:33,240 And because of, you know, the security stuff 105 00:06:33,280 --> 00:06:35,000 in the decades before. 106 00:06:35,100 --> 00:06:38,100 So, to be here now, it's really special. 107 00:06:44,140 --> 00:06:46,140 First, we're heading to a place 108 00:06:46,180 --> 00:06:49,240 with great geographical and historical significance 109 00:06:49,300 --> 00:06:51,400 on the Northwestern edge of Pakistan. 110 00:06:52,280 --> 00:06:55,320 So far we've been traversing the Line of Control, 111 00:06:55,400 --> 00:06:58,440 but Pakistan's other border is no less controversial. 112 00:07:00,300 --> 00:07:03,260 So this is the road to Afghanistan, 113 00:07:04,040 --> 00:07:08,280 the famed Khyber Pass, 50 miles long. 114 00:07:09,040 --> 00:07:12,300 And historically some of the most dangerous territory on Earth. 115 00:07:12,340 --> 00:07:15,020 This is the route that invading armies 116 00:07:15,060 --> 00:07:18,280 have been travelling for hundreds if not thousands of years. 117 00:07:18,320 --> 00:07:21,120 You know, it's the route that Alexander the Great took 118 00:07:22,160 --> 00:07:25,400 it's the route that the Mongol armies came over 119 00:07:26,400 --> 00:07:28,040 the invading Afghans 120 00:07:28,080 --> 00:07:30,340 and then the British in both directions. 121 00:07:30,380 --> 00:07:33,380 And I suppose this, this has always been the frontier of 122 00:07:34,000 --> 00:07:35,180 the Indian subcontinent, 123 00:07:35,220 --> 00:07:38,480 the gateway to India and itself, and... 124 00:07:39,200 --> 00:07:42,360 Yeah, that's why it has always been known as the North-West Frontier. 125 00:07:46,480 --> 00:07:51,000 I expected to see more military all around 126 00:07:51,180 --> 00:07:53,460 but that doesn't mean this isn't an area without risk. 127 00:08:07,060 --> 00:08:09,260 This is the Afghan border. 128 00:08:09,340 --> 00:08:12,060 Down there is the village of Torkham. 129 00:08:12,200 --> 00:08:13,180 And... 130 00:08:14,180 --> 00:08:17,040 quite unbelievable to think that we're standing 131 00:08:17,260 --> 00:08:20,420 right on the edge of the Indian subcontinent, 132 00:08:20,460 --> 00:08:23,220 top of the Khyber Pass, looking down into Afghanistan. 133 00:08:23,320 --> 00:08:25,480 That is all Taliban territory. 134 00:08:26,020 --> 00:08:28,380 It's almost like looking at something you've heard about, 135 00:08:28,420 --> 00:08:30,240 like, this pseudo-mythical place. 136 00:08:32,440 --> 00:08:36,280 It's weird for me to be standing here overlooking Afghanistan 137 00:08:37,080 --> 00:08:39,200 having been there as a soldier myself, you know? 138 00:08:39,240 --> 00:08:41,100 I used to, I fought there 139 00:08:42,020 --> 00:08:43,460 part of the British army against the Taliban, 140 00:08:44,000 --> 00:08:45,220 and now they run the country. 141 00:08:45,260 --> 00:08:48,420 So I'm sort of here with mixed feelings really. 142 00:08:48,460 --> 00:08:50,400 It's quite sad, particularly for the Afghan people 143 00:08:50,440 --> 00:08:54,060 who now live under this brutal regime. 144 00:08:55,000 --> 00:08:56,360 -Salaam-alaikum. -Walaikum-assalam. 145 00:08:56,400 --> 00:08:58,160 Hello. Hi, how are you? 146 00:08:58,320 --> 00:09:00,160 -Where are you going? -Afghanistan. 147 00:09:00,240 --> 00:09:01,240 -Kabul? -Yes. 148 00:09:01,280 --> 00:09:03,100 -Oh, Jalalabad? -Jalalabad. 149 00:09:03,140 --> 00:09:04,080 Oh, okay! 150 00:09:04,120 --> 00:09:06,360 -What is in your truck? -Coal. 151 00:09:06,420 --> 00:09:07,400 -What's that? -Coal. 152 00:09:07,460 --> 00:09:09,180 You're taking coal 153 00:09:09,340 --> 00:09:12,120 -from Afghanistan to Pakistan or... -Peshawar. 154 00:09:12,300 --> 00:09:13,340 -Peshawar! -Peshawar! 155 00:09:14,380 --> 00:09:17,020 -There's a lot of trucks. -There's a lot of trade, isn't it? 156 00:09:17,060 --> 00:09:18,320 Trade is good for them both. 157 00:09:18,360 --> 00:09:20,140 Whatever's happening in the geo-politics 158 00:09:20,180 --> 00:09:22,480 people still need their goods coming across through the border. 159 00:09:27,460 --> 00:09:30,420 We make our way back to the city of Peshawar 160 00:09:33,140 --> 00:09:35,320 one of the oldest cities in south Asia 161 00:09:35,360 --> 00:09:38,360 that was once an important staging post for traders. 162 00:09:39,220 --> 00:09:41,100 You don't see many women around here, do you? 163 00:09:41,140 --> 00:09:42,020 No, not really. 164 00:09:42,060 --> 00:09:44,380 -Like a real difference to Lahore. -Yeah. 165 00:09:44,420 --> 00:09:48,060 Feels a lot more male-dominated, doesn't it? 166 00:09:48,180 --> 00:09:53,100 Pretty much all men are in the traditional Salwar-Kameez. 167 00:09:53,180 --> 00:09:56,120 Nobody, nobody is just like, in jeans and t-shirts unlike us. 168 00:09:57,400 --> 00:09:58,160 Salaam-alaikum. 169 00:09:58,200 --> 00:09:59,380 Certainly makes us stand out, a bit more. 170 00:09:59,420 --> 00:10:00,300 Yeah. 171 00:10:03,360 --> 00:10:07,100 In a back alley of Peshawar's historic Qissa Khwani Bazaar, 172 00:10:07,160 --> 00:10:09,200 we're meeting Dr. Abdul Samad 173 00:10:09,380 --> 00:10:12,060 one of Pakistan's leading archaeologists 174 00:10:12,120 --> 00:10:15,240 whose current project has a deep link to the Indian film industry. 175 00:10:15,280 --> 00:10:17,280 You are standing here in Dilip Kumar's house. 176 00:10:17,320 --> 00:10:19,260 He was born right here, in this house. 177 00:10:19,320 --> 00:10:21,060 -Really? Wow! -Yeah. 178 00:10:21,100 --> 00:10:25,080 So his original name was Yusuf Khan but then he went to Indian industry, 179 00:10:25,120 --> 00:10:28,000 the Bollywood industry, so he is known as Dilip Kumar. 180 00:10:28,080 --> 00:10:30,400 So now we are restoring this small house 181 00:10:30,440 --> 00:10:33,060 and we plan to have a museum here 182 00:10:33,160 --> 00:10:36,240 and the Bollywood connection between Pakistan and India. 183 00:10:36,280 --> 00:10:39,240 So we will display his life contribution. 184 00:10:39,280 --> 00:10:41,040 And is the hope that you will, 185 00:10:41,080 --> 00:10:43,020 you know, you'll attract people that are 186 00:10:43,060 --> 00:10:45,220 obviously, film lovers and people from India 187 00:10:45,260 --> 00:10:47,060 to come here as well in the future 188 00:10:47,100 --> 00:10:48,080 -hopefully. -Yes. 189 00:10:48,200 --> 00:10:50,040 Last year, when we got this house 190 00:10:50,080 --> 00:10:52,400 the late Dilip Kumar, he was alive at that time 191 00:10:52,440 --> 00:10:54,120 he appreciated that step. 192 00:10:55,120 --> 00:10:59,160 His wife is very much interested to come to see this ancestral house 193 00:10:59,200 --> 00:11:01,180 and I'm sure more people will come 194 00:11:01,220 --> 00:11:03,460 and they will see the real face of Peshawar, real face of Pakistan. 195 00:11:04,000 --> 00:11:06,000 Not the one which is projected in the media. 196 00:11:06,140 --> 00:11:09,200 Work isn't the only thing Dr. Samad is passionate about. 197 00:11:09,240 --> 00:11:12,160 He also wants to show us how the men in Peshawar have fun. 198 00:11:12,300 --> 00:11:15,440 And for that, he's driving us to the nearby city of Nowshera. 199 00:11:22,260 --> 00:11:24,260 Come on, Ash. Ready for a bit of off-roading? 200 00:11:24,320 --> 00:11:25,140 Yeah! 201 00:11:25,260 --> 00:11:28,380 Looking forward to this spinning around in this playground. 202 00:11:29,280 --> 00:11:32,260 You guys are probably the first non-Pakistani here... 203 00:11:32,320 --> 00:11:33,300 -Yeah? -...to come here. 204 00:11:33,340 --> 00:11:36,200 That's why we just took a longer route because 205 00:11:37,180 --> 00:11:40,020 we just don't want to be seen by anyone. 206 00:11:40,400 --> 00:11:42,420 -The first foreigners to be here? -Yes, yeah. 207 00:11:42,480 --> 00:11:43,280 Because it's a 208 00:11:43,320 --> 00:11:44,280 -military training area. -Really? 209 00:11:44,320 --> 00:11:45,160 Yes. 210 00:11:48,400 --> 00:11:52,140 This is a regular playground for Dr. Samad and his friends, 211 00:11:52,180 --> 00:11:53,420 who join us this evening. 212 00:11:54,340 --> 00:11:56,140 You definitely need all the handles 213 00:11:56,200 --> 00:11:58,060 if you're in the passenger seat as well. 214 00:11:58,120 --> 00:11:59,320 Holding on with both hands. 215 00:12:00,080 --> 00:12:01,440 These are customised cars, I mean... 216 00:12:01,480 --> 00:12:02,280 Okay. 217 00:12:02,320 --> 00:12:05,280 Good for a bit of proper offroad exploration? 218 00:12:05,480 --> 00:12:09,160 You're basically the Pakistani Indiana Jones! 219 00:12:11,220 --> 00:12:15,060 Dr. Samad takes it up a notch and shows us his wild side. 220 00:12:15,120 --> 00:12:16,100 Let's do it. 221 00:12:16,260 --> 00:12:17,280 Maybe... 222 00:12:18,060 --> 00:12:20,460 -Yeah! Yeah! -Real life begins when you shift 223 00:12:21,180 --> 00:12:22,320 to the four by four. 224 00:12:47,400 --> 00:12:49,260 -Good for sunset. -Yeah. 225 00:12:50,320 --> 00:12:52,220 This is beautiful from up here. 226 00:12:54,300 --> 00:12:55,200 So, where's the nearest, 227 00:12:55,240 --> 00:12:57,360 sort of, archaeological site to here, do you think? 228 00:12:57,400 --> 00:12:59,280 All around this valley, 229 00:12:59,320 --> 00:13:01,340 you have archaeological site, mostly Buddhist sites. 230 00:13:01,380 --> 00:13:03,180 The Gandhara and the Takht-i-Bahi 231 00:13:03,220 --> 00:13:04,360 World Heritage Site. 232 00:13:04,400 --> 00:13:07,040 -Okay. -This is a melting pot of cultures 233 00:13:07,180 --> 00:13:11,060 like the Greek, Roman, the Vedic civilisation. 234 00:13:11,160 --> 00:13:12,420 Different religion, different cultures 235 00:13:12,460 --> 00:13:16,260 were learning from each other and something new were emerging. 236 00:13:16,380 --> 00:13:20,040 You can see the Indus River twinkling over there and these... 237 00:13:20,420 --> 00:13:23,460 little streams running into it that are lush and green. 238 00:13:24,020 --> 00:13:26,000 So once you've crossed those mountains, 239 00:13:26,040 --> 00:13:28,120 and you've got down here this would seem like paradise. 240 00:13:28,160 --> 00:13:29,200 And a good place to 241 00:13:29,240 --> 00:13:32,320 settle down and build, build a home, build a civilisation. 242 00:13:35,140 --> 00:13:36,420 All right, what's next then? 243 00:13:37,100 --> 00:13:39,180 Yeah, we're going to have a few obstacle, 244 00:13:39,220 --> 00:13:41,060 and then there's some secret for you. 245 00:13:41,100 --> 00:13:42,160 -Some secrets? -Yeah. 246 00:13:42,420 --> 00:13:43,380 Okay. 247 00:13:44,080 --> 00:13:46,100 Some special training for you, Ash? 248 00:13:46,160 --> 00:13:47,260 I like secrets. 249 00:13:52,160 --> 00:13:54,140 Next stop, "The secret". 250 00:13:59,080 --> 00:14:01,080 Well, we couldn't have predicted this. 251 00:14:01,200 --> 00:14:02,060 Yeah. 252 00:14:02,100 --> 00:14:04,100 What are we, what are we shooting at? 253 00:14:04,180 --> 00:14:05,160 Yeah? 254 00:14:10,400 --> 00:14:12,020 What happened? 255 00:14:12,360 --> 00:14:14,200 I was not expecting that. 256 00:14:15,160 --> 00:14:16,100 Sorry, sir. 257 00:14:16,380 --> 00:14:20,060 We are in the semi-autonomous tribal belt of Pakistan. 258 00:14:21,260 --> 00:14:22,280 That's loud. 259 00:14:23,300 --> 00:14:26,260 Where owning a military grade weapon is considered normal. 260 00:14:26,300 --> 00:14:27,340 -Good to fire. -Ready to fire. 261 00:14:27,380 --> 00:14:28,120 Yeah. 262 00:14:28,160 --> 00:14:29,060 -Okay. -Don't miss the holes. 263 00:14:29,100 --> 00:14:30,480 I'm not going to miss the hole. Of course, not. 264 00:14:37,180 --> 00:14:38,140 Just a second. 265 00:14:38,380 --> 00:14:39,480 Just three-four rounds. 266 00:14:40,020 --> 00:14:41,040 -Just one... -Yeah. 267 00:14:41,180 --> 00:14:43,160 -Okay. Ready? -Just, just one. 268 00:14:48,320 --> 00:14:49,480 Come on, Ash. Your turn. 269 00:14:52,020 --> 00:14:53,360 All right, come on, Ash. Ready for it? 270 00:14:57,300 --> 00:14:59,380 -Where's the safety on here? -On the left. 271 00:15:00,420 --> 00:15:02,000 You see that little switch? 272 00:15:05,160 --> 00:15:06,280 -Come over. -Dropped the mag. 273 00:15:06,320 --> 00:15:08,000 -Now, weapon change? -All right. 274 00:15:16,020 --> 00:15:18,100 -Wow! -I think you started a fire, Ash. 275 00:15:18,360 --> 00:15:20,400 -Huh? -Over there, yeah. 276 00:15:22,360 --> 00:15:23,340 Here we go. 277 00:15:27,080 --> 00:15:28,000 Wow! 278 00:15:28,440 --> 00:15:31,060 -Bang on target. -On safety? 279 00:15:31,120 --> 00:15:33,300 -Enjoy that? -How was... 280 00:15:33,340 --> 00:15:35,120 How was my technique? How was my firing position? 281 00:15:35,160 --> 00:15:37,220 I think you're, you pretty good, Ash. 282 00:15:41,480 --> 00:15:45,000 I can't hear anything. I've got ringing in both ears. 283 00:15:47,200 --> 00:15:50,340 So, does everybody in this region regularly fire weapons? 284 00:15:50,380 --> 00:15:51,460 Does everyone own a weapon? 285 00:15:52,000 --> 00:15:54,120 This is only for safety purpose, nothing more than that. 286 00:15:54,160 --> 00:15:56,340 And, and it's genuinely something you need in this region? 287 00:15:56,380 --> 00:15:58,140 -You need for sports -We don't need anything... 288 00:15:58,180 --> 00:16:00,020 -purposes as well. -just for security purpose. 289 00:16:00,060 --> 00:16:03,080 especially where you are standing in such a place here 290 00:16:03,160 --> 00:16:05,160 you can have wild animal here, so... 291 00:16:05,380 --> 00:16:07,220 You can have wild animal-- Right! 292 00:16:07,260 --> 00:16:09,380 -These rabbits are pretty dangerous. -Dangerous rabbits. 293 00:16:09,420 --> 00:16:11,360 -Pigs! Pigs, sir, pigs! -Pigs? 294 00:16:12,080 --> 00:16:14,320 Everybody own a weapon mostly for sports purposes. 295 00:16:14,360 --> 00:16:15,140 -Yes. -Yeah. 296 00:16:15,180 --> 00:16:17,020 -Sports purposes. -It's a habit and hobby 297 00:16:17,060 --> 00:16:18,480 -Yeah. -to keep a weapon with you. 298 00:16:22,120 --> 00:16:24,000 Pakistan has been great fun so far 299 00:16:24,040 --> 00:16:26,020 but I certainly didn't expect to spend 300 00:16:26,120 --> 00:16:28,140 an evening driving around in four by four 301 00:16:28,180 --> 00:16:33,240 and firing off weapons in, you know, an army training ground. 302 00:16:33,380 --> 00:16:36,240 Yeah, it does seem like a bit of a bizarre day out, isn't it? 303 00:16:36,280 --> 00:16:38,420 But I've had a lot of fun actually, 304 00:16:38,460 --> 00:16:41,180 and sort of seen how the Pakistanis let their hair down. 305 00:16:41,220 --> 00:16:43,480 It seems to be one way of doing it, isn't it? 306 00:16:44,120 --> 00:16:45,420 Sort of drive around, flash these cars around 307 00:16:45,460 --> 00:16:47,380 and then go and fire off some 308 00:16:47,460 --> 00:16:50,220 automatic machine guns for a good, good measure. 309 00:16:51,040 --> 00:16:52,340 Very good fun. Enjoyed it. 310 00:16:54,400 --> 00:16:56,200 Let me just make sure I got my seat belt on first 311 00:16:56,240 --> 00:16:57,300 if you're driving, Lev. 312 00:16:57,400 --> 00:16:59,040 All right then, you ready? 313 00:17:03,180 --> 00:17:06,280 As we leave Nowshera and head to Islamabad for the night, 314 00:17:06,360 --> 00:17:08,420 I notice that my ears are still ringing 315 00:17:08,480 --> 00:17:11,000 and haven't quite recovered from the shooting. 316 00:17:11,040 --> 00:17:12,460 But I'm hoping it'll sort itself out. 317 00:17:16,000 --> 00:17:19,280 We're out this morning to explore one of Pakistan's most famous 318 00:17:19,320 --> 00:17:22,260 UNESCO World Heritage sites, Taxila. 319 00:17:22,340 --> 00:17:25,200 We can jump in one of these Qingqis? 320 00:17:25,240 --> 00:17:27,100 -Yeah. -Is that how you say it? "Chingkwi?" 321 00:17:27,140 --> 00:17:29,260 -"Chingchi?" -"Chingchi," yeah. 322 00:17:29,340 --> 00:17:30,360 Salaam-alaikum. 323 00:17:31,040 --> 00:17:33,220 Can we, can we go in, yeah, to Taxila? 324 00:17:33,480 --> 00:17:36,160 You want me to drive? Yeah? All right. 325 00:17:37,380 --> 00:17:38,280 All right. 326 00:17:39,140 --> 00:17:40,200 Let's go, driver. 327 00:17:40,240 --> 00:17:41,460 Let me give you this camera, mate. 328 00:17:42,000 --> 00:17:44,240 Am I going to have to negotiate a fee with you now? 329 00:17:44,460 --> 00:17:46,160 How much to Taxila? 330 00:17:46,200 --> 00:17:48,020 I'll charge special rates for you, mate. 331 00:17:48,060 --> 00:17:48,420 Don't worry. 332 00:17:48,460 --> 00:17:51,440 How much? I've been told I should always get a price before I go. 333 00:17:53,320 --> 00:17:55,400 I'll do a special discount rate for you. 334 00:18:04,340 --> 00:18:07,140 How is it compared to riding a motorbike, Lev? 335 00:18:07,200 --> 00:18:10,200 It's a big different. It doesn't feel quite so balanced. 336 00:18:11,040 --> 00:18:13,100 Worried enough for everyone else on the road. 337 00:18:15,140 --> 00:18:17,320 -Okay? Are we good? -Good. 338 00:18:17,360 --> 00:18:18,480 -Yeah. -How's he doing? 339 00:18:19,480 --> 00:18:21,020 I think he's a bit nervous 340 00:18:21,060 --> 00:18:22,420 that I'm gonna bugger up his Chingkwi. 341 00:18:24,200 --> 00:18:27,040 He's warding off all the other traffic about me. 342 00:18:27,140 --> 00:18:29,000 He's saying, ''Keep my eyes on the road.'' 343 00:18:31,220 --> 00:18:33,360 There it is, Ash. This is Taxila. 344 00:18:36,120 --> 00:18:39,100 Huh? How? Oh, foot on the floor. 345 00:18:39,140 --> 00:18:40,140 Okay. 346 00:18:41,040 --> 00:18:42,420 You have to use your feet to stop! 347 00:18:45,040 --> 00:18:45,480 Okay. 348 00:18:46,120 --> 00:18:47,360 There, we got it right. Thank you, my friend. 349 00:18:47,400 --> 00:18:48,480 -Okay. -Okay! 350 00:18:50,140 --> 00:18:51,340 How was his driving? 351 00:18:51,380 --> 00:18:52,440 -Driving was it okay? -Was it okay? 352 00:18:52,480 --> 00:18:54,380 Very good? Thank you. 353 00:18:55,360 --> 00:18:56,220 Cheers! 354 00:18:57,420 --> 00:19:00,000 So, this is it, Ash. This is Taxila. 355 00:19:00,040 --> 00:19:01,340 So, what is, why are we here? 356 00:19:01,380 --> 00:19:03,280 -What's so special about this place? -Well, I love this place 357 00:19:03,320 --> 00:19:08,220 because it's a city, an ancient city that was actually founded 358 00:19:08,340 --> 00:19:11,140 some say, as far as five thousand years ago. 359 00:19:11,180 --> 00:19:11,480 Wow! 360 00:19:12,020 --> 00:19:14,120 But there's recorded archaeological evidence dated back 361 00:19:14,160 --> 00:19:15,300 thousands of years here. 362 00:19:15,400 --> 00:19:18,080 Alexander the Great even passed over this place 363 00:19:18,120 --> 00:19:20,120 and took it over for a short while back in, 364 00:19:20,180 --> 00:19:22,120 I think, 326 BC but 365 00:19:22,180 --> 00:19:25,480 some of the ruins here date back over 3,000 years. 366 00:19:26,020 --> 00:19:27,040 So it's quite amazing. 367 00:19:27,080 --> 00:19:29,280 It's an old centre of Hindu civilisation, 368 00:19:29,320 --> 00:19:30,440 Buddhism as well 369 00:19:30,480 --> 00:19:34,260 and it claims to have one of the oldest universities in the world, 370 00:19:34,320 --> 00:19:35,260 right here. 371 00:19:36,140 --> 00:19:37,300 I love how excited you get by 372 00:19:37,340 --> 00:19:39,100 -these things. -I love it. It's great. 373 00:19:41,040 --> 00:19:44,020 We're meeting Dr. Nadeem Omar Tarar, 374 00:19:44,080 --> 00:19:47,340 an anthropologist passionate about Taxila's history and art. 375 00:19:47,440 --> 00:19:49,140 What are you making in here? 376 00:19:49,220 --> 00:19:52,340 Oh, it's Pakistan's best kept secret. 377 00:19:52,380 --> 00:19:55,380 Pakistan's best kept secret! Well, I'm intrigued. 378 00:19:56,480 --> 00:20:00,440 He's making a stupa the traditional funerary architecture of Buddhists 379 00:20:01,220 --> 00:20:02,360 who have lived here 380 00:20:02,400 --> 00:20:04,140 -2,000 years ago. -Yeah. 381 00:20:04,260 --> 00:20:06,260 But the practise still lives on. 382 00:20:06,320 --> 00:20:08,140 So this is a copy 383 00:20:08,180 --> 00:20:11,060 -of the ones inside Taxila? -Yes, exactly! 384 00:20:11,100 --> 00:20:14,180 So, you know what? I was here in 2004 385 00:20:14,280 --> 00:20:16,080 the first time I came to Pakistan 386 00:20:16,120 --> 00:20:20,080 and I remember going around inside Taxila seeing 387 00:20:20,120 --> 00:20:24,160 and one of the locals to the had something in a blanket 388 00:20:24,200 --> 00:20:26,320 he said, "Do you want to buy a Buddha's head?'" 389 00:20:26,380 --> 00:20:28,240 And I looked at it and said, "Is this original?" 390 00:20:28,280 --> 00:20:29,240 He said, "Yeah, yeah, it's original." 391 00:20:29,280 --> 00:20:30,300 Of course, I said, ''No''. 392 00:20:30,340 --> 00:20:32,120 -I'm an anthropologist, -Yeah. 393 00:20:32,160 --> 00:20:34,140 -and I see a value there. -Yeah. 394 00:20:34,180 --> 00:20:38,060 I see a skill which was lost being revived by them. 395 00:20:38,120 --> 00:20:40,220 Is it possible for the untrained eye 396 00:20:40,260 --> 00:20:43,100 to tell the difference between an original 397 00:20:43,140 --> 00:20:44,280 -and one of these replicas 398 00:20:44,320 --> 00:20:45,380 that he's making? -Absolutely not! 399 00:20:45,420 --> 00:20:49,220 And that is why it's considered as counterfeit and illegal. 400 00:20:49,260 --> 00:20:52,000 And so how many of these replicas 401 00:20:52,040 --> 00:20:54,240 are now in museums or people's collections 402 00:20:54,280 --> 00:20:58,300 -thinking they were real? -Your guess is as good as mine. 403 00:20:58,380 --> 00:21:02,000 Even in British Museum, you never know, his work is there. 404 00:21:02,040 --> 00:21:05,140 Dr. Nadeem asks me to give it a shot and I'm game. 405 00:21:05,180 --> 00:21:06,240 Let's go. You can sit here 406 00:21:06,280 --> 00:21:07,440 -and he can... -Yeah, okay. 407 00:21:08,060 --> 00:21:10,100 I hope this is not going to put me in jail. 408 00:21:12,020 --> 00:21:13,300 So, where do I sit? On the little stool? 409 00:21:13,340 --> 00:21:14,080 Yes. 410 00:21:14,120 --> 00:21:16,060 Oh, I'm not sure my legs are up for this. 411 00:21:17,400 --> 00:21:19,240 By the way, that's a Greek figure. 412 00:21:19,280 --> 00:21:21,440 -Yeah, you can see the hair. -That's not a Buddhist figure. 413 00:21:22,320 --> 00:21:24,280 You're actually doing it better. 414 00:21:25,060 --> 00:21:26,220 It's quite a feat. 415 00:21:27,240 --> 00:21:30,420 -He's a quick learner. -I think I found my new trade. 416 00:21:31,000 --> 00:21:32,320 I knew I was built for something. 417 00:21:32,400 --> 00:21:35,040 It's taken me this long to figure it out but 418 00:21:35,080 --> 00:21:38,220 counterfeiting is my, is my calling. 419 00:21:40,260 --> 00:21:44,020 We head out with Dr. Nadeem to explore the ancient city. 420 00:21:44,080 --> 00:21:47,200 Why is Taxila so important for, like, cultural significance? 421 00:21:47,240 --> 00:21:48,320 Why is it such an important site? 422 00:21:48,360 --> 00:21:52,460 See, Taxila is important because it existed at the crossroad. 423 00:21:53,000 --> 00:21:56,080 The Silk Route which connected China with Rome 424 00:21:56,120 --> 00:21:58,000 -Yeah. -was actually passing 425 00:21:58,040 --> 00:21:59,120 -through Taxila. -Wow! 426 00:21:59,160 --> 00:22:00,420 Alexander the Great came here. 427 00:22:00,460 --> 00:22:03,480 I mean, why was it so important to, to that culture 428 00:22:04,020 --> 00:22:04,400 and how did that spread? 429 00:22:04,440 --> 00:22:06,400 It's very interesting that these roads. 430 00:22:06,440 --> 00:22:07,180 Yeah. 431 00:22:07,220 --> 00:22:10,120 Were used by the conquerors as well as merchants. 432 00:22:10,160 --> 00:22:10,400 Right. 433 00:22:10,440 --> 00:22:13,140 They're not just sharing sort of goods, 434 00:22:13,180 --> 00:22:15,300 -but they're also exchanging ideas. -Yeah. 435 00:22:15,340 --> 00:22:18,460 So as a result of that, the whole area acquired 436 00:22:19,000 --> 00:22:20,380 -a cultural. -A Greek flavour. 437 00:22:20,440 --> 00:22:22,020 A Greek flavour! 438 00:22:22,120 --> 00:22:27,000 And, and Greek culture permeated, as you see through the sculpture 439 00:22:27,120 --> 00:22:28,460 -The art. -because that is the only 440 00:22:29,060 --> 00:22:30,240 thing that survived. 441 00:22:30,280 --> 00:22:34,340 And they tell they reveal the fusion of this Greek culture 442 00:22:34,420 --> 00:22:36,300 -with the Indian culture. -Yeah. 443 00:22:37,080 --> 00:22:39,420 -So, what's this place? -This is Jandial Temple. 444 00:22:39,480 --> 00:22:41,360 This is a Zoroastrian temple. 445 00:22:41,420 --> 00:22:44,360 Built in a Greek style by the Greek masons. 446 00:22:45,040 --> 00:22:49,180 I came here in 2004. I remember this place. 447 00:22:49,260 --> 00:22:52,460 It looks like it's been quite badly damaged. 448 00:22:53,000 --> 00:22:53,460 Is this recent, then? 449 00:22:54,000 --> 00:22:55,360 Well, people have been stealing the stones. 450 00:22:55,400 --> 00:22:58,480 Yes, exactly. They do it almost imperceptibly. 451 00:22:59,040 --> 00:23:02,020 If you have taken photographs of the place over time 452 00:23:02,240 --> 00:23:04,220 it's only when you can spot the difference. 453 00:23:04,260 --> 00:23:07,040 I've got a photograph of this place. Let me find it. 454 00:23:07,080 --> 00:23:08,040 Oh, really? 455 00:23:08,220 --> 00:23:10,040 So, they just take, like, one little stone... 456 00:23:10,080 --> 00:23:11,320 -Look at this! -Yeah, yes, exactly. 457 00:23:11,360 --> 00:23:13,480 -This was me in 2004. -Oh, wow! 458 00:23:14,020 --> 00:23:16,420 Right there, and you can see the column 459 00:23:16,460 --> 00:23:18,480 -that's completely that's just gone. -Oh, dear. 460 00:23:19,020 --> 00:23:21,380 In fact, it's been stolen! The top has been stolen 461 00:23:21,420 --> 00:23:24,200 and all of that wall gone! 462 00:23:24,340 --> 00:23:26,380 Totally destroyed! It's heartbreaking! 463 00:23:27,400 --> 00:23:29,380 This visit highlights the fact 464 00:23:29,420 --> 00:23:33,000 that preserving heritage takes collective will and effort. 465 00:23:33,220 --> 00:23:35,260 Hopefully, people like Dr. Nadeem 466 00:23:35,300 --> 00:23:37,420 can help keep these ancient sites safe 467 00:23:37,460 --> 00:23:39,300 for generations to come. 468 00:23:41,320 --> 00:23:43,300 I'm loving my time in Pakistan. 469 00:23:43,340 --> 00:23:45,140 You know, it was great to feel immersed. 470 00:23:45,180 --> 00:23:48,200 And it was also 471 00:23:48,380 --> 00:23:51,440 great to go out and spend some time with 472 00:23:52,100 --> 00:23:55,180 these guys, learning how Pakistanis have fun. 473 00:23:55,220 --> 00:23:57,060 They've been so incredibly welcoming 474 00:23:57,160 --> 00:24:00,300 and to go smashing around in the desert and 475 00:24:00,460 --> 00:24:03,040 doing the four-wheel driving and then 476 00:24:03,360 --> 00:24:07,040 you know, firing off guns into the desert, which 477 00:24:07,180 --> 00:24:09,140 those seem to enjoy a great deal. 478 00:24:09,300 --> 00:24:11,100 It's also caused 479 00:24:11,160 --> 00:24:13,300 an unexpected problem for me. I have... 480 00:24:13,480 --> 00:24:17,300 Actually had some hearing damage from firing off the weapons and, 481 00:24:17,420 --> 00:24:21,060 I went to go and see an ear specialist today 482 00:24:21,120 --> 00:24:24,060 who recommended that I don't actually get on a flight 483 00:24:24,120 --> 00:24:25,460 for the next few days. 484 00:24:26,040 --> 00:24:29,360 So we're heading up to Skardu, and Lev's going to take the plane 485 00:24:30,000 --> 00:24:33,300 and head off and start exploring the area a bit. 486 00:24:33,460 --> 00:24:35,280 I'm going to have to take a... 487 00:24:36,080 --> 00:24:37,160 ...a car journey up there 488 00:24:37,200 --> 00:24:40,020 so I don't fly, which is going to take about 20 hours. 489 00:24:43,100 --> 00:24:45,280 Take care. See you on the other side, yeah. 490 00:24:45,360 --> 00:24:47,100 -All right. -Great. Enjoy the flight. 491 00:24:47,160 --> 00:24:48,380 Good luck. Safe driving. 492 00:24:51,140 --> 00:24:53,000 Well, the streets of Islamabad are 493 00:24:53,040 --> 00:24:57,180 pretty quiet at this time of the day. It's just gotten 5 a.m. 494 00:24:58,400 --> 00:25:01,140 -Hey, Ilyas, long drive? -Yes. 495 00:25:01,460 --> 00:25:03,260 -20 hours? -20 hours! 496 00:25:03,300 --> 00:25:06,300 So, the road to Skardu begins. 497 00:25:08,280 --> 00:25:13,060 Because of local security concerns, we'd been advised to fly to Skardu. 498 00:25:13,140 --> 00:25:17,020 But after travelling for almost 2,000 kilometres by road... 499 00:25:17,160 --> 00:25:18,280 Ash, has no choice 500 00:25:18,320 --> 00:25:22,020 but to brave the long journey because of his ear condition 501 00:25:22,080 --> 00:25:23,340 while I take to the air. 502 00:25:26,080 --> 00:25:27,380 So we're just driving past 503 00:25:27,420 --> 00:25:30,080 the city of Abbottabad, which gained infamy 504 00:25:30,120 --> 00:25:33,480 as the location of the final hideout of Osama bin Laden, 505 00:25:34,020 --> 00:25:35,280 the leader of Al-Qaeda. 506 00:25:35,320 --> 00:25:39,180 We talked about possibly going in to visit it but 507 00:25:40,080 --> 00:25:41,340 it's a very sensitive area 508 00:25:42,060 --> 00:25:46,340 very sensitive spot right in the middle of a very militarised city. 509 00:25:46,440 --> 00:25:49,100 So, we decided it probably wasn't a good idea. 510 00:25:49,160 --> 00:25:52,320 But it does feel very strange to be driving past 511 00:25:53,100 --> 00:25:55,400 the home of a man who changed this region 512 00:25:55,440 --> 00:25:58,020 and indeed the world so much and 513 00:25:58,100 --> 00:25:59,440 whilst I'm driving past Bin Laden's house, 514 00:25:59,480 --> 00:26:02,280 Lev is probably 30,000 feet in the air 515 00:26:02,320 --> 00:26:06,240 enjoying glorious views of Nanga Parbat and the mountains. 516 00:26:14,180 --> 00:26:19,040 (ANNOUNCEMENT OVER PA) 517 00:26:19,180 --> 00:26:21,160 Zero, two, four, eight. 518 00:26:21,480 --> 00:26:23,420 So this is Skardu... 519 00:26:24,320 --> 00:26:26,220 ...right up in the north. 520 00:26:26,300 --> 00:26:29,300 But actually, it reminds me a little bit of where we started... 521 00:26:29,380 --> 00:26:31,080 in India, up in Ladakh. 522 00:26:31,320 --> 00:26:33,220 which is actually not far away. 523 00:26:33,260 --> 00:26:35,160 Just over that mountains there. 524 00:26:37,400 --> 00:26:39,420 I'm on the Karakoram Highway, 525 00:26:39,460 --> 00:26:41,440 one of the highest paved roads on Earth. 526 00:26:42,000 --> 00:26:46,160 It extends from the Punjab province in Pakistan all the way to China. 527 00:26:47,020 --> 00:26:48,200 After 10 hours of driving, 528 00:26:48,240 --> 00:26:52,040 I reach Jaglot a small town with a unique feature. 529 00:26:52,160 --> 00:26:54,440 So this point here where the Gilgit, and Indus rivers meet, 530 00:26:55,080 --> 00:26:57,200 is also the junction point of 531 00:26:57,240 --> 00:26:58,480 the three highest mountain ranges in the world. 532 00:26:59,020 --> 00:27:01,100 You've got the Himalaya down there 533 00:27:02,000 --> 00:27:05,320 Karakoram over here and then the Hindu Kush over there. 534 00:27:05,360 --> 00:27:07,420 Hindu Kush is the one that runs into Pakistan, 535 00:27:07,480 --> 00:27:10,100 from Pakistan into Afghanistan 536 00:27:10,140 --> 00:27:13,220 and the Karakoram goes up towards China 537 00:27:13,300 --> 00:27:18,040 and then the Himalayas, of course, we know from India and into Nepal 538 00:27:18,080 --> 00:27:19,000 finishing in Bhutan. 539 00:27:19,040 --> 00:27:23,220 So amazing to be at this junction, of these three great mountain ranges 540 00:27:24,060 --> 00:27:25,360 a quirk of geography and geology 541 00:27:25,400 --> 00:27:28,060 when the Indian subcontinent smashed up 542 00:27:28,100 --> 00:27:30,240 into Asia about 60 million years ago. 543 00:27:35,100 --> 00:27:38,120 I'm spending the night in the middle of the Katpana desert 544 00:27:38,180 --> 00:27:41,120 at a remote campsite with phenomenal views 545 00:27:41,300 --> 00:27:46,360 run by a former corporate executive, turned adventurer, Fahad Mahmood. 546 00:27:46,400 --> 00:27:50,300 But first we're off to check out the Sarfaranga sand dunes. 547 00:27:50,440 --> 00:27:52,100 Well, I'll give it to you. 548 00:27:52,140 --> 00:27:54,260 You've brought me to a pretty magnificent place. 549 00:27:54,300 --> 00:27:58,100 -I told you about it. -Absolutely. Beautiful! 550 00:27:58,140 --> 00:28:01,340 This is most probably the highest cold desert on the planet. 551 00:28:01,380 --> 00:28:02,340 -Is it? -Yeah. 552 00:28:02,380 --> 00:28:03,320 Wow! 553 00:28:04,140 --> 00:28:05,360 Let's see what the view's like from the top, 554 00:28:05,400 --> 00:28:06,200 -shall we? -Why not? 555 00:28:06,240 --> 00:28:08,240 What's it like living here, then, for you? 556 00:28:09,220 --> 00:28:11,000 You're a local? Where were you born? 557 00:28:11,040 --> 00:28:13,020 -I was born in Lahore. -Oh, right. Okay. 558 00:28:13,060 --> 00:28:15,460 -So, you moved here because of this? -Yes. 559 00:28:16,000 --> 00:28:18,280 -Because of the beauty, I guess. -Because of the nature. 560 00:28:18,320 --> 00:28:19,180 Yeah. 561 00:28:19,320 --> 00:28:21,320 When I said to people I was coming to Pakistan 562 00:28:21,360 --> 00:28:22,340 When I said I was going to India, 563 00:28:22,380 --> 00:28:24,080 everyone was like, "Have a lovely holiday." 564 00:28:24,120 --> 00:28:26,460 The moment you say you're coming to Pakistan, everyone's terrified. 565 00:28:27,000 --> 00:28:28,440 They think you're going to get kidnapped to Kaboom! 566 00:28:28,480 --> 00:28:31,040 Yeah, blown up by the Taliban, but like 567 00:28:31,100 --> 00:28:34,100 you come here, it's actually not so different from over the border. 568 00:28:34,140 --> 00:28:37,180 In fact, it feels incredibly safe here and 569 00:28:37,240 --> 00:28:40,260 everyone is lovely and welcoming and hospitable. 570 00:28:40,300 --> 00:28:44,140 I mean, what's your take on that? What would you say to the world? 571 00:28:44,340 --> 00:28:48,000 I think we, we are one of the oldest civilisations on the planet. 572 00:28:48,040 --> 00:28:50,360 -Yeah. -And we carry that genes. 573 00:28:51,100 --> 00:28:54,300 So we are not what you think we are, 574 00:28:54,480 --> 00:28:57,000 we are way, more deeper than that. 575 00:28:57,360 --> 00:28:59,120 You just need to come meet us. 576 00:29:03,240 --> 00:29:04,140 It's just a dream. 577 00:29:04,180 --> 00:29:06,260 Whether you're a mountaineer, a photographer 578 00:29:06,300 --> 00:29:09,040 or just all-round travelling adventurer. 579 00:29:09,080 --> 00:29:10,280 This is the place to come. 580 00:29:17,480 --> 00:29:19,200 Well, what a day! 581 00:29:20,180 --> 00:29:23,080 I mean, apart from being split up with Ash 582 00:29:23,220 --> 00:29:25,220 it's been really, really awesome. 583 00:29:25,340 --> 00:29:29,100 For me Pakistan has been amazing. I've had such an incredible time. 584 00:29:29,140 --> 00:29:33,100 The sheer diversity of the country, and of course, the hospitality. 585 00:29:33,140 --> 00:29:36,180 Staying here on the top of this cliff overlooking that valley 586 00:29:36,220 --> 00:29:39,160 has gotta be one of the best campsites anywhere in the world. 587 00:29:43,100 --> 00:29:46,000 So we've been waiting for Ash, and he's finally arrived. 588 00:29:53,060 --> 00:29:55,100 Ashwin! Hello, mate. 589 00:29:56,180 --> 00:29:57,260 Come, say hello. 590 00:29:59,140 --> 00:30:00,360 -You are all right, buddy? -I'm exhausted. 591 00:30:00,400 --> 00:30:02,100 -Are you tired? -Yeah. 592 00:30:02,140 --> 00:30:06,340 So, Ash has just arrived. It's good to be reunited with him. 593 00:30:07,000 --> 00:30:09,340 Sounds like he's had a pretty long and tiring ride. 594 00:30:09,400 --> 00:30:11,480 But, you know, it's good, it's good that he's here. 595 00:30:12,340 --> 00:30:16,420 And, yeah, it means we can actually finish the journey together, 596 00:30:16,460 --> 00:30:18,140 which is fantastic! 597 00:30:18,180 --> 00:30:20,340 So I'm just going to let him, leave him to rest for an hour 598 00:30:20,380 --> 00:30:24,060 or so to catch up on some sleep, and... 599 00:30:24,480 --> 00:30:28,060 And then we've got to go and do some deliveries. 600 00:30:30,440 --> 00:30:34,120 We borrow Fahad's bike and make our way through Skardu 601 00:30:34,220 --> 00:30:37,480 looking for Ghulam Qadir's house to deliver a precious cargo 602 00:30:38,020 --> 00:30:40,280 that's been our travelling companion since Ladakh. 603 00:30:44,140 --> 00:30:47,440 Gullu will be very happy. This has travelled a long way. 604 00:30:49,040 --> 00:30:50,060 This has come a long way. 605 00:30:50,100 --> 00:30:51,280 Yeah, he sent me a photo of the door. 606 00:30:51,320 --> 00:30:52,240 -Yeah. -This is it. 607 00:30:53,080 --> 00:30:55,160 -Let's hope he's in. -Hopefully. 608 00:30:58,040 --> 00:30:59,060 I wonder if he's in. 609 00:31:01,020 --> 00:31:02,440 -Hello! -Yes? 610 00:31:03,480 --> 00:31:05,380 -Hello, hi. -Hello, hi. 611 00:31:05,420 --> 00:31:07,140 -My name is Lev. -Yes? 612 00:31:07,180 --> 00:31:08,140 -I'm Ashwin. -This is Ash. 613 00:31:08,180 --> 00:31:10,340 -Salaam-alaikum. -Walaikum-assalam. 614 00:31:10,380 --> 00:31:12,480 We're looking for Mr. Ghulam Qadir. 615 00:31:13,120 --> 00:31:15,340 Ghulam Qadir. He's in Islamabad. 616 00:31:15,380 --> 00:31:16,280 -He's in Islamabad? -Yes. 617 00:31:16,320 --> 00:31:18,240 -But he lives here? -Yes, I'm his son. 618 00:31:18,280 --> 00:31:20,000 You are his son? Okay. Your name is? 619 00:31:20,040 --> 00:31:21,300 -My name is Basharat. -Basharat. 620 00:31:21,340 --> 00:31:23,000 -Nice to meet you, Basharat. -Thank you. 621 00:31:23,040 --> 00:31:25,060 Do you know a man called Gullu from India? 622 00:31:25,100 --> 00:31:26,340 -Yes, he's my cousin. -He is your cousin? 623 00:31:26,380 --> 00:31:27,120 Yes. 624 00:31:27,160 --> 00:31:29,240 Well, we have a present for you from him. 625 00:31:29,280 --> 00:31:32,020 Oh, that's nice. Thank you, thank you. 626 00:31:32,060 --> 00:31:34,040 -It's travelled a very long way. -Thank you. 627 00:31:34,080 --> 00:31:35,160 So, please come. 628 00:31:38,180 --> 00:31:39,400 We haven't actually seen this pressure cooker. 629 00:31:39,440 --> 00:31:41,000 -Yeah. -We should see what it looks like. 630 00:31:41,040 --> 00:31:43,100 -Yeah, we have to check it. -Is it a good one? 631 00:31:44,040 --> 00:31:46,180 -This is so nice. -Yeah? 632 00:31:46,220 --> 00:31:48,140 And you cannot get this in Pakistan? 633 00:31:48,180 --> 00:31:50,400 No. This cooker is specially made in India. 634 00:31:50,440 --> 00:31:51,180 -Right. -Really? 635 00:31:51,220 --> 00:31:54,320 I don't, I have ever seen such type of pressure cooker. 636 00:31:54,360 --> 00:31:55,220 Right! 637 00:31:55,340 --> 00:31:58,020 One pressure cooker that my father bring... 638 00:31:59,020 --> 00:32:00,460 almost in 1990. 639 00:32:01,000 --> 00:32:02,340 -Still, we are using that cooker. -So you're due, 640 00:32:02,380 --> 00:32:04,320 -so you're due an upgrade? -Yes. 641 00:32:05,180 --> 00:32:06,320 How many years ago was that? 642 00:32:06,360 --> 00:32:09,040 -32 years! -32 years ago. God! 643 00:32:09,400 --> 00:32:12,240 It must be strange having half of your family 644 00:32:12,280 --> 00:32:13,240 on this side of the border 645 00:32:13,280 --> 00:32:16,140 and half of your family on the Indian side. 646 00:32:16,180 --> 00:32:21,100 Yes, it's too strange that a single man lives here. 647 00:32:21,260 --> 00:32:25,200 All of his family lived there for almost, 648 00:32:25,340 --> 00:32:26,360 it is now... 649 00:32:28,120 --> 00:32:31,360 -71 to here, almost 52 years. -Yeah. 650 00:32:31,460 --> 00:32:32,480 -Wow! -It was. 651 00:32:33,020 --> 00:32:36,340 Does it ever feel lonely being separated from your family so much? 652 00:32:36,420 --> 00:32:38,200 Yes, absolutely. 653 00:32:38,240 --> 00:32:40,420 My father, when he calls my village 654 00:32:40,460 --> 00:32:43,020 -after the end of the call, -Yeah. 655 00:32:43,060 --> 00:32:44,160 almost he... 656 00:32:45,260 --> 00:32:48,340 He doesn't show that he's sad. 657 00:32:52,060 --> 00:32:55,300 He also had a wife in my native village. 658 00:32:56,100 --> 00:32:59,140 -So, he had to remarry? -Yes, after... 659 00:32:59,360 --> 00:33:02,380 Almost 10 to 12 years, he waited for her. 660 00:33:02,440 --> 00:33:05,480 After August 1983. 661 00:33:06,040 --> 00:33:07,000 Right. 662 00:33:07,420 --> 00:33:11,040 During crossing the Indus River, Shyok River 663 00:33:11,100 --> 00:33:13,120 is she fell in that river. 664 00:33:13,200 --> 00:33:14,260 She was trying to cross the river? 665 00:33:14,300 --> 00:33:16,280 -Yes, she was trying to go. -And what happened? 666 00:33:16,320 --> 00:33:18,460 And her dead body was 667 00:33:20,040 --> 00:33:22,440 in Khaplu village, her grave is there. 668 00:33:23,480 --> 00:33:25,460 -What a sad story! -By his hand 669 00:33:26,000 --> 00:33:28,480 my father made the grave of his last wife. 670 00:33:29,040 --> 00:33:34,380 And after that, in 85, 86, our father married with my mother. 671 00:33:35,380 --> 00:33:36,260 God! 672 00:33:38,080 --> 00:33:41,280 -Very sad, very sad. -So whenever we see our father... 673 00:33:44,400 --> 00:33:46,000 after he... 674 00:33:49,440 --> 00:33:50,460 he's a bit... 675 00:33:51,380 --> 00:33:52,320 it's okay. 676 00:33:53,380 --> 00:33:55,380 You don't have to go on if you don't want to. 677 00:33:58,080 --> 00:33:59,440 I'm so, I'm sorry to have upset you. 678 00:34:03,460 --> 00:34:05,260 And there's one more thing 679 00:34:06,240 --> 00:34:10,220 my father don't visit Fraono because of a single reason. 680 00:34:11,360 --> 00:34:13,180 He sees his own village. 681 00:34:14,480 --> 00:34:16,060 So, to avoid the pain 682 00:34:16,100 --> 00:34:16,480 -he doesn't go there? -Yes. 683 00:34:17,020 --> 00:34:18,280 there because it would hurt him too much-- 684 00:34:18,320 --> 00:34:20,240 He can see but he doesn't go there. 685 00:34:21,080 --> 00:34:22,380 He's unable to reach there. 686 00:34:23,420 --> 00:34:25,220 I can't imagine what that'd be like. 687 00:34:26,380 --> 00:34:29,260 So this thing often hurts our heart. 688 00:34:32,140 --> 00:34:34,180 Basharat's account is similar to stories 689 00:34:34,220 --> 00:34:36,280 that we heard on the other side of the border. 690 00:34:37,020 --> 00:34:41,060 For people living in either country, the pain of separation is the same. 691 00:34:44,300 --> 00:34:47,480 With one delivery done, we move onwards to make our final delivery. 692 00:34:48,020 --> 00:34:49,100 -Hello, sir. -Hello. 693 00:34:49,140 --> 00:34:50,400 -Are you Mr. Bashir? -Yeah. 694 00:34:50,440 --> 00:34:52,180 Hello, sir. My name is Levison. 695 00:34:52,220 --> 00:34:56,040 We are carrying a gift for Muhammad Bashir from his sister Rahima. 696 00:34:56,160 --> 00:34:59,080 Who we met at the start of our journey in Turtuk. 697 00:34:59,320 --> 00:35:01,420 Well, I have something a little present for you. 698 00:35:01,480 --> 00:35:03,440 -One of my photographs. -Thank you. 699 00:35:03,480 --> 00:35:05,380 Here we go, here we go. 700 00:35:07,120 --> 00:35:10,340 My brother, my sister, my mum and my... 701 00:35:11,200 --> 00:35:13,260 -sister's son. -Yeah. 702 00:35:13,420 --> 00:35:15,400 -Thank you. Thank you. -Oh, my pleasure. My pleasure. 703 00:35:15,440 --> 00:35:17,320 They thought you would like that. So... 704 00:35:17,360 --> 00:35:19,440 -Thank you very much. -Oh, there we go. 705 00:35:21,380 --> 00:35:26,060 Yeah, they spoke so warmly of you. They, they, they miss you a lot. 706 00:35:26,200 --> 00:35:27,180 They miss you. 707 00:35:27,280 --> 00:35:29,320 -I'm also missing them. -Yeah. 708 00:35:30,300 --> 00:35:33,180 We can take a photo to show your son? 709 00:35:33,220 --> 00:35:37,320 The last time that Muhammad Bashir met his mother was back in 2013, 710 00:35:37,360 --> 00:35:40,060 when he was granted a visa to go to India. 711 00:35:40,120 --> 00:35:42,140 What did it feel like to return home? 712 00:35:42,200 --> 00:35:46,100 Well, I'm very excited. And especially my mother. 713 00:35:46,160 --> 00:35:49,240 -Yes. -After our separation 714 00:35:49,340 --> 00:35:52,000 -10 years we have no communication. -No? 715 00:35:52,140 --> 00:35:54,160 -Well, because-- -When I write a letter... 716 00:35:54,200 --> 00:35:55,100 Yeah? 717 00:35:55,140 --> 00:35:58,320 It reaches there after six months and their reply 718 00:35:59,100 --> 00:36:00,360 -comes after six months. -Really, wow! 719 00:36:00,400 --> 00:36:03,200 In one year, we have communicated with one another. 720 00:36:04,220 --> 00:36:07,420 Well, thank you so much for being a part of this journey. 721 00:36:07,460 --> 00:36:09,420 -It's made us very happy. -Oh, my poor English, I have... 722 00:36:09,460 --> 00:36:11,020 -No, your English is fantastic. -No, your English is wonderful. 723 00:36:11,060 --> 00:36:12,300 Thank you so much. Thank you. 724 00:36:12,440 --> 00:36:15,040 That was really nice, seeing Mr. Bashir 725 00:36:15,080 --> 00:36:21,080 and handing him the photograph from Hashmat and his family. 726 00:36:21,140 --> 00:36:22,300 Really, really nice. 727 00:36:22,480 --> 00:36:25,340 It really has been very special. 728 00:36:25,420 --> 00:36:29,260 We're privileged to come here and meet these people 729 00:36:29,440 --> 00:36:32,380 and pass on the messages of love from their family in India 730 00:36:33,080 --> 00:36:34,240 and to share their story. 731 00:36:39,220 --> 00:36:42,120 After travelling over 2,000 kilometres... 732 00:36:42,220 --> 00:36:45,420 across one volatile border dividing two countries 733 00:36:45,480 --> 00:36:48,400 we have just under 200 kilometres to go. 734 00:36:49,000 --> 00:36:52,460 And once again, the Shyok river guides us to our destination. 735 00:36:54,040 --> 00:36:57,480 So we're walking to Khaplu, 736 00:36:59,040 --> 00:37:04,000 which is sort of getting closer to the Line of Control. 737 00:37:05,340 --> 00:37:07,340 And, yeah, it's sort of weird now 738 00:37:07,380 --> 00:37:09,180 going towards the end of the journey. 739 00:37:09,280 --> 00:37:13,080 And as we were on the other side, we're following this great river 740 00:37:13,180 --> 00:37:16,000 that has been the lifeblood to 741 00:37:16,260 --> 00:37:19,220 civilisations for thousands of years and... 742 00:37:19,460 --> 00:37:22,240 Yeah, it feels like we're coming full circle, literally. 743 00:37:24,440 --> 00:37:28,040 It's quite an oppressive day with these 744 00:37:28,240 --> 00:37:31,160 dark storm clouds coming out and it might rain soon. 745 00:37:32,020 --> 00:37:32,400 But... 746 00:37:33,300 --> 00:37:36,420 we've got this really amazing dramatic scenery 747 00:37:36,460 --> 00:37:38,140 and these beautiful cliffs, 748 00:37:38,180 --> 00:37:40,300 and the river cuts into the gorge down there. 749 00:37:40,340 --> 00:37:44,300 So it's, you know, we started this journey with drama, 750 00:37:44,400 --> 00:37:46,200 and we're going to finish it with drama. 751 00:38:04,460 --> 00:38:07,020 We arrive in the town of Khaplu 752 00:38:07,080 --> 00:38:09,200 which was once the second-largest kingdom 753 00:38:09,240 --> 00:38:12,260 of the Yabgo Dynasty in Old Baltistan. 754 00:38:13,020 --> 00:38:14,260 Something's kicking off, isn't it? 755 00:38:14,300 --> 00:38:16,160 -Hey! -Look at this! 756 00:38:17,200 --> 00:38:19,340 Today, there's a festive spirit in the air. 757 00:38:21,480 --> 00:38:23,320 Hi. How are you? 758 00:38:24,140 --> 00:38:25,180 What's happening? 759 00:38:25,320 --> 00:38:28,020 -Polo match! -There's a Polo match today? 760 00:38:28,060 --> 00:38:30,140 -Oh, boy! -Can we join? Can we follow you? 761 00:38:30,220 --> 00:38:31,220 Come and watch? 762 00:38:32,440 --> 00:38:35,420 I think they're all very excited to play a bit of Polo, aren't they? 763 00:38:39,460 --> 00:38:40,420 They're dancing. 764 00:38:41,220 --> 00:38:44,140 Like Turtuk, Khaplu is home to the Balti people 765 00:38:44,300 --> 00:38:47,100 and the Polo is played with passion here as well. 766 00:38:48,380 --> 00:38:51,380 The match is being held on the polo ground near Khaplu Palace. 767 00:38:52,020 --> 00:38:53,460 And it starts the traditional way 768 00:38:54,180 --> 00:38:57,420 with Nasir Ali Khan, the region's king throwing the ball. 769 00:39:01,060 --> 00:39:02,180 All right, it's kicked off. 770 00:39:11,480 --> 00:39:13,260 Go! Go! 771 00:39:14,060 --> 00:39:15,180 -Blues score! -Go, Blues! 772 00:39:22,400 --> 00:39:24,220 These guys look pretty skilled. 773 00:39:24,480 --> 00:39:27,180 Get it in. Finish it! Finish it! 774 00:39:27,220 --> 00:39:30,340 Finish it! Oh, close, close! 775 00:39:35,280 --> 00:39:36,440 Hi, how are you doing? 776 00:39:37,000 --> 00:39:38,120 We meet Ali Abbas 777 00:39:38,160 --> 00:39:41,100 the reigning prince of Khaplu who is one of the polo players. 778 00:39:41,140 --> 00:39:43,300 -Beautiful horses you have. -You ride? 779 00:39:43,420 --> 00:39:44,340 Yeah, we do. 780 00:39:44,380 --> 00:39:47,200 A little bit. Yeah, we played polo in Turtuk. 781 00:39:47,280 --> 00:39:49,000 Although the horses were a lot smaller. 782 00:39:49,040 --> 00:39:51,120 Yeah, you got, you got much bigger horses here. 783 00:39:51,160 --> 00:39:53,200 The Prince asks us, if we want to ride? 784 00:39:53,300 --> 00:39:57,100 And we won't pass up the opportunity to get on horseback once again. 785 00:39:58,200 --> 00:39:59,340 Hold up, hold up. 786 00:39:59,380 --> 00:40:01,480 -Let's go with this one, then? -Okay? 787 00:40:04,120 --> 00:40:06,020 He's a better size for me than Freddie. 788 00:40:07,180 --> 00:40:08,360 I'm just going to trot along. 789 00:40:10,200 --> 00:40:11,240 Go on, Lev! 790 00:40:18,460 --> 00:40:21,040 -Go on, get in there. -It's like rugby. 791 00:40:22,060 --> 00:40:23,040 Horse rugby! 792 00:40:23,080 --> 00:40:25,220 Horse rugby. Yes! Go! 793 00:40:27,460 --> 00:40:30,220 All right, they're barging them straight into the wall there. 794 00:40:31,140 --> 00:40:32,360 -Yes! -Go! 795 00:40:37,440 --> 00:40:39,000 -Yeah! -Yeah! 796 00:40:39,220 --> 00:40:40,380 Well done, boys! 797 00:40:42,280 --> 00:40:44,380 What a sport. They call it the sport of kings, don't they? 798 00:40:44,420 --> 00:40:46,220 Here we go. I'm on the Prince's horse. 799 00:40:46,260 --> 00:40:47,340 Princes and kings! 800 00:40:48,320 --> 00:40:50,120 Should we have one little race, Ash? 801 00:40:50,240 --> 00:40:53,020 -Quick. One quick little race? -Yeah, I'm in. 802 00:40:53,060 --> 00:40:53,380 Go! 803 00:40:53,440 --> 00:40:56,240 I can't resist one final head to head. 804 00:40:57,160 --> 00:40:58,040 Come on, Ash. 805 00:40:58,100 --> 00:41:01,060 This could be my last chance to redeem myself on a polo ground. 806 00:41:01,100 --> 00:41:02,360 Yeah, come on, Ash. Good lad. 807 00:41:14,360 --> 00:41:16,100 Well done, Ash. Well done. 808 00:41:16,200 --> 00:41:17,320 I think your experience of being 809 00:41:17,360 --> 00:41:19,260 on the Prince's horse certainly helped. 810 00:41:21,020 --> 00:41:23,220 Very invigorating. Thank you, sir. 811 00:41:24,180 --> 00:41:26,200 -Well done, mate. -And thank you, Freddie two. 812 00:41:26,320 --> 00:41:28,140 You looked after me. Well done. 813 00:41:28,220 --> 00:41:29,420 Should we join in the dancing? 814 00:41:32,000 --> 00:41:33,280 Lev may be better with horses 815 00:41:33,320 --> 00:41:36,340 but when it comes to dancing, I'm in my element. 816 00:41:40,380 --> 00:41:41,360 Good effort, mate. 817 00:41:44,220 --> 00:41:45,160 Thank you! 818 00:41:48,400 --> 00:41:53,340 It seemed like such an amazing, vast goal 819 00:41:53,380 --> 00:41:56,220 when we set out and 820 00:41:57,040 --> 00:42:01,200 with all the challenges that we've gone through to get here. 821 00:42:01,380 --> 00:42:05,380 And we've come all the way around and we've seen so much 822 00:42:06,240 --> 00:42:07,480 and for me in particular, 823 00:42:08,020 --> 00:42:09,360 the two places that have mattered so much, 824 00:42:09,400 --> 00:42:12,280 being Punjab and Pakistan. 825 00:42:12,320 --> 00:42:15,020 They're two places I've wanted to visit for so long. 826 00:42:17,080 --> 00:42:21,020 And I don't know quite how I'm going to feel when I... 827 00:42:21,360 --> 00:42:23,240 get to the end point near the village of Fraono 828 00:42:23,280 --> 00:42:25,140 and just look down the river 829 00:42:25,380 --> 00:42:27,100 at where we started. 830 00:42:27,240 --> 00:42:31,180 Can't believe this is it the final night 831 00:42:32,440 --> 00:42:37,280 here in Khaplu and yeah, only 50 kilometres to push 832 00:42:37,480 --> 00:42:40,200 to get to Fraono and that's the end of the road. 833 00:42:42,100 --> 00:42:45,020 I can't believe the journey is almost at an end. 834 00:42:45,220 --> 00:42:46,300 It's quite emotional, really. 835 00:42:47,300 --> 00:42:49,380 But yeah, I'm looking forward to... 836 00:42:51,440 --> 00:42:54,280 You know, completing the circle really. 837 00:42:54,320 --> 00:42:57,220 And it is a heavily militarised zone 838 00:42:57,260 --> 00:43:00,100 so I don't know if there's going to be any checkpoints so, 839 00:43:00,140 --> 00:43:02,160 how close to the border itself we'll be able to get 840 00:43:02,200 --> 00:43:04,160 hopefully, we'll be able to get to the village of Fraono. 841 00:43:04,200 --> 00:43:05,400 But let's see... 842 00:43:08,440 --> 00:43:13,060 It's the final morning of this 2500-kilometre journey. 843 00:43:13,200 --> 00:43:16,300 Which will end in Fraono, on the other side of Tyakshi... 844 00:43:16,360 --> 00:43:19,060 the village in Ladakh, from where we started. 845 00:43:19,100 --> 00:43:21,140 There's one final barrier in our way. 846 00:43:21,300 --> 00:43:25,240 There's a military checkpoint just a mile or so ahead. 847 00:43:25,280 --> 00:43:26,420 And we've heard that there's 848 00:43:26,460 --> 00:43:29,160 is actually quite a big military presence 849 00:43:29,220 --> 00:43:31,380 in the valley where Fraono is situated. 850 00:43:31,440 --> 00:43:33,320 We've not seen too much military movement around. 851 00:43:33,360 --> 00:43:36,200 But, you know, these... 852 00:43:37,000 --> 00:43:41,100 We've had troubles with checkpoints already on this journey, and... 853 00:43:41,480 --> 00:43:43,340 It is a contested border at the end of the day. 854 00:43:43,380 --> 00:43:45,040 And we've seen on the Indian side 855 00:43:45,080 --> 00:43:48,180 just how much military presence there is on that side. So... 856 00:43:48,320 --> 00:43:50,020 it's going to be the same here, isn't it? 857 00:43:50,060 --> 00:43:53,280 And it makes sense that they don't want people 858 00:43:53,480 --> 00:43:56,080 walking around in these kinds of areas, do they? 859 00:43:56,240 --> 00:43:58,140 Yeah, I mean it is such a cliche but 860 00:43:58,200 --> 00:44:00,120 it isn't about the destination, it's about the journey. 861 00:44:00,160 --> 00:44:02,320 this journey has been incredible. 862 00:44:02,420 --> 00:44:04,260 -It's been awesome. -It really has. 863 00:44:04,420 --> 00:44:07,080 We've pretty much come full circle. What a journey! 864 00:44:14,020 --> 00:44:15,440 We're only a few kilometres from Fraono 865 00:44:16,020 --> 00:44:17,420 when we're stopped at a checkpoint. 866 00:44:23,160 --> 00:44:24,400 They've taken all our papers 867 00:44:24,460 --> 00:44:27,080 and we're waiting to hear from the authorities. 868 00:44:31,100 --> 00:44:33,460 One thing this journey has consistently taught us 869 00:44:34,080 --> 00:44:36,200 is that border towns along the Line of Control 870 00:44:36,240 --> 00:44:39,300 are heavily guarded and remain highly unpredictable. 871 00:44:40,360 --> 00:44:41,440 We're trying to get over there. 872 00:44:41,480 --> 00:44:45,300 That's Fraono, just about 35, 40 kilometres 873 00:44:45,340 --> 00:44:49,320 on the other side of that, that mountain pass there. 874 00:44:49,460 --> 00:44:51,180 That's where we wanted to get to. 875 00:44:51,220 --> 00:44:56,040 And sadly, because of politics and bureaucracy, they said, ''No''. 876 00:44:56,100 --> 00:44:59,140 Basically, this checkpoint here, this is the end of the road. 877 00:45:00,460 --> 00:45:01,460 It's very sad. 878 00:45:02,020 --> 00:45:04,480 I'm really, I'm sad. I'm frustrated. 879 00:45:05,420 --> 00:45:06,400 And in a strange way, 880 00:45:06,440 --> 00:45:09,280 it's helped me empathise even more with the families. 881 00:45:10,040 --> 00:45:13,260 Imagine having that for 50 years. It's bad enough for us. 882 00:45:14,260 --> 00:45:17,440 This, this border, man. This damn border. 883 00:45:30,360 --> 00:45:34,260 Whilst this isn't exactly where we wanted to finish our expedition, 884 00:45:34,400 --> 00:45:36,380 we set aside our disappointment 885 00:45:36,420 --> 00:45:39,220 and complete our journey in a different way. 886 00:45:46,160 --> 00:45:48,400 We're almost at the end now. That's where we're heading. 887 00:45:49,080 --> 00:45:53,220 That mountain in the middle of the river valley. 888 00:45:53,440 --> 00:45:56,000 We're going to get to the viewpoint there 889 00:45:56,040 --> 00:45:58,080 where at least we can see down the valley 890 00:45:58,240 --> 00:46:01,360 towards the point that we started this journey. 891 00:46:11,060 --> 00:46:12,360 What a place to finish, mate? 892 00:46:13,140 --> 00:46:17,140 This is one of the most beautiful places on Earth, undoubtedly. 893 00:46:18,040 --> 00:46:19,020 And... 894 00:46:20,000 --> 00:46:21,240 I feel privileged to be here 895 00:46:21,400 --> 00:46:25,240 to finish this journey here with you in this place 896 00:46:25,280 --> 00:46:29,160 that has so much significance and meaning, 897 00:46:29,220 --> 00:46:32,140 summarises so much of what we have looked at in this journey. 898 00:46:32,400 --> 00:46:38,220 And perfectly, we've got one final tough push up hill 899 00:46:39,080 --> 00:46:40,120 to get to the end. 900 00:46:40,420 --> 00:46:41,380 Let's do it. 901 00:46:42,000 --> 00:46:44,220 Yeah, one final climb up that mountain 902 00:46:45,260 --> 00:46:46,420 and then we've made it. 903 00:47:11,440 --> 00:47:12,380 We made it. 904 00:47:14,080 --> 00:47:16,220 Yes! Well done, mate. 905 00:47:17,220 --> 00:47:19,340 This is it, the final point. 906 00:47:21,360 --> 00:47:23,040 What a place to finish! 907 00:47:23,080 --> 00:47:25,020 Yes, this is the end of the journey, 908 00:47:25,060 --> 00:47:27,360 because over there, down that valley, 909 00:47:27,480 --> 00:47:29,000 that's where we started 910 00:47:29,040 --> 00:47:32,080 and here we are, right on this little summit 911 00:47:32,180 --> 00:47:34,200 overlooking this beautiful valley, 912 00:47:34,320 --> 00:47:37,460 amazing river, right on the roof of the world. 913 00:47:39,380 --> 00:47:41,100 That ridge line there, 914 00:47:41,260 --> 00:47:44,240 you can see that was the one we could see from Tyakshi, 915 00:47:44,280 --> 00:47:45,280 when we looked up 916 00:47:46,120 --> 00:47:47,280 and it went around the bend. 917 00:47:47,320 --> 00:47:49,100 That was the ridge we saw. 918 00:47:49,360 --> 00:47:51,460 We did it. We did it! 919 00:47:53,120 --> 00:47:55,020 We feel incredibly privileged 920 00:47:55,060 --> 00:47:58,260 to have explored the borderlands between India and Pakistan. 921 00:47:58,400 --> 00:48:01,240 We have experienced great warmth and hospitality 922 00:48:01,280 --> 00:48:04,180 in both these countries that were once one. 923 00:48:06,180 --> 00:48:08,220 And still have so much in common. 924 00:48:08,300 --> 00:48:12,120 We hope that this line that has divided them for so long 925 00:48:12,240 --> 00:48:14,120 does not stop these two nations 926 00:48:14,160 --> 00:48:16,420 from finding lasting peace in the future. 927 00:48:16,460 --> 00:48:18,460 Subtitle Caption by ZestCorp