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[female narrator] Imagine two customers
walk into a luxury store.
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One is wearing a dress and a fur coat.
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The other is wearing a jacket
and gym clothes.
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Which would you guess
would be able to spend more money?
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When researchers asked employees
at boutique shops in Milan
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that question in 2013,
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their answer was overwhelmingly
the person in gym clothes.
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But even as recently as the '90s,
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wearing sweatpants in public
was a TV punchline.
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Again with the sweatpants?
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Know the message you're sending
to the world with sweatpants?
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You're telling the world, "I give up."
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[laughter]
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Because for thousands of years,
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clothing more or less
followed the same rules.
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The quality of your fabric and tailoring
was a status symbol.
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If you could afford it,
you hired a tailor or seamstress.
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Clothing clearly separated
the rich from the poor
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and men from women.
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There used to be a lot of things
that women needed to do
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in order to present themselves
to be accepted.
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And we're breaking those barriers,
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and here we are,
and leggings are taking over the world.
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Today, men and women
wear a lot of the same things.
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Some of the world's richest people
dress like anyone you pass on the street.
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And high fashion
looks to streetwear for inspiration.
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Activewear like this has become
a global market worth over $300 billion.
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It's almost a quarter
of all the clothes we buy.
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How did that happen?
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How did we start dressing so casually,
and why do we do it?
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[woman] Our designers have developed
new fashions for casual living.
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-[man] This is a synthetic fiber.
-You mean we make cloth out of that?
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[second man] Research in miracle fabrics
has created a clothing revolution.
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I'm here for the spandex.
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And I just love how fashion is finally
just becoming more and more cultural.
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I want to wear my working-out clothes
in my day-to-day life.
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[man] It was more casual,
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but at the same time,
you could go anywhere.
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Yeah, the word "athleisure"
probably came in--
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I don't know what--
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it's some-- somewhere around 2011, 2012,
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and it was almost like a joke.
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[man] Are we wearing more sportswear
because we're exercising more?
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-[buzzer]
-[second man] Uh, no.
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-[man and woman] Athleisure.
-Athleisure.
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Wear gym clothes and still look fabulous.
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-Do you work out in those pants?
-Yeah, I think so.
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-But you haven't?
-No, I haven't.
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[both laugh]
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[narrator] While the term "athleisure"
may be new, the trend definitely isn't.
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And it all started with free time.
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Free time is associated with
the ruling class.
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I mean, throughout history,
the ruling class had leisure
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because servants or slaves
were doing all of the actual work.
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But by the early 20th century,
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life was getting better for average people
in industrializing countries.
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New time-saving technologies
and pressure from organized labor
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ushered in regulations on work hours.
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The average work week
dropped from 65 to 46 hours
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in the span of a single lifetime.
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One of the biggest drops was in the U.S.
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What you find by the beginning
of the 20th century
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is that people of the middling sort
start to have more leisure time
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so they also can participate in sports.
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Indoor gyms sprung up
in cities across America.
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That concept had been
recently pioneered in Germany,
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inspired by the ancient Greeks.
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The word "gymnasium"
actually comes from the Greek "gymnós,"
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meaning "naked,"
because the original gym clothes...
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-[ding]
-...were nothing.
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And that would've been
a lot less constricting
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than the outfits of gym-goers
in the late 1800s.
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But then their clothes
started getting more comfortable.
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That's because gyms were private spaces
segregated by gender,
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which meant women could wear
new designs like bloomers
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that would've been scandalous
on city streets.
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At the risk of arrest,
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women campaigned to make
those more comfortable styles acceptable.
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Because at the time, women's clothes
could be extremely restrictive.
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Wealthy women sometimes needed help
getting dressed.
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But once women
were able to play sports in college
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and bicycles took off in cities...
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those casual clothes
stopped being so private.
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And that's when things
really started to change.
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Just look at tennis outfits.
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In 1900, players wore ankle-length skirts,
long sleeves, and corsets.
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Then skirts got shorter and shorter.
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Tennis players
like France's Suzanne Lenglen
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became style icons.
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[man] She served up a costume
that made the game more interesting.
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[narrator] Her signature
knee-length pleated skirts,
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sleeveless tops, rolled stockings,
and headbands
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helped her play the sport better,
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and young women started copying her look
as a progressive statement.
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By the 1920s,
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Vogue magazine regularly featured
tennis-inspired looks on its cover.
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Clothes made for sports
were becoming mainstream fashion.
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What you see in America
by the early 20th century
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is a kind of blurring of those things.
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So something like a sweater,
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which you originally would wear
to sweat in
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while you were in
active-leisure pursuits,
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then became something that you would wear
to look casual and sportive.
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[overlapping chatter]
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I certainly feel much more comfortable
playing in shorts
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because my skirt doesn't flap around
when I putt and when I walk over hills.
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[narrator] Clothing that allows people
to move freely and comfortably--
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almost all of it began as sports apparel.
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Sneakers come from croquet,
Henley shirts from rowing,
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and turtlenecks come from polo.
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That new casual American style
became known as sportswear.
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Commercials like this one
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advertised these clothes
as comfortable, easy to wash...
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[man] Radiant from head to toe
in man-made materials.
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[narrator] ...and made out of plastic.
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For almost all of human history,
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textiles were made from
either animals or plants.
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Worms gave us silk, sheep gave us wool,
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goats gave us cashmere,
flax plants gave us linen,
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and cotton shrubs, of course,
gave us cotton.
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If you look at cotton,
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it was readily accessible
to most everybody,
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and it was grown
pretty much all over the world,
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so everybody had access to it,
but it has limitations.
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Cotton can hold about
eight percent of its weight in water.
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For wool, it can be up to 30%.
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These wool swimsuits
weighed eight pounds when they got wet.
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But then scientists discovered how to make
a totally new kind of fiber in a lab.
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The magic of modern chemistry
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rocketed us into a new world
of modern fabrics.
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In the span of a few decades,
the chemical company DuPont
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introduced the world
to all of these synthetic fibers.
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First, there was nylon.
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DuPont marketed
the silk-like fabric to women
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as an alternative to
the scratchy wool stockings of the time.
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They were a hit.
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[man] On the run come the ladies.
Free nylons just for the scramble.
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It may only prove
that a woman wants to be a knockout
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even if she has to KO her friends
to do it.
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[narrator] Soon, fashion magazines
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were filled with ads
for new man-made fibers,
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claiming they would free women
from time-consuming clothes-care.
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And then DuPont
invented something revolutionary.
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I think we need to talk about spandex.
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Spandex, first marketed
under the brand name Lycra,
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would be blended with natural fibers
to make it more lightweight, elastic,
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and flattering to your figure.
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It meant that you could create garments
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that fit much closer to the body,
but that were so comfortable.
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That made it possible
to create form-fitting clothes
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without clever and expensive
cutting and seaming.
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Once you had lycra,
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any old stupid manufacturer
could do body-worshiping clothes.
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Body-hugging spandex
revolutionized what we wore for sports.
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For swimming, skiing, cycling,
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dancing, and yoga.
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But there's one big problem with spandex--
it's very clingy...
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in areas you may not want it to cling.
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-Are you ready to do the workout?
-[women] Yeah.
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Now, if you look at the Jane Fonda videos,
they've solved that problem
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by having basically a bodysuit
over top of the leotards.
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-Stomach tight, buttocks pulled in...
-But then came yoga pants.
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I started lululemon
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on the premise
that this pant was perfect.
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The number one key invention
was the gusset in the crotch.
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That's right, the gusset in the crotch.
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It's a diamond-shaped piece of fabric
in between the pant legs
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that increases coverage and flexibility.
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I just basically took that bodysuit
and built that into the pant.
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So then it became acceptable for a woman
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to leave a sweaty workout
and be out on the street.
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Design innovations like this
made skin-tight clothes less revealing.
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I want to be able to...
have it be acceptable
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that I can go and work out,
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take my kids to school,
then show up to work.
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And I don't want to break the bank
or have to change on the go.
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I want to wear one legging, really.
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I think that's why activewear
has become so enormous.
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It just suits the modern woman.
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Today, American women
are buying more stretch pants than jeans.
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But going from this to this took time.
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It took quite a long time
before the public adjusted to
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what seemed to them
like shocking body exposure.
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And that was something that was
gradually mediated by fashion photographs,
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by movies, by television shows.
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By the early 1960s, almost every American
had a screen in their home
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just as the biggest generation
in American history entered their teens.
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Youth movements
were also extremely important.
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You see that at the beginning
of the 20th century.
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You see it again
in the '60s, '70s, again in the '80s.
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I mean, it never stopped after that.
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TV also turned athletes
into celebrities like never before...
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just as professional sports teams
slowly started allowing non-white players.
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The number of black players in the NBA
went from three in 1950
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to nearly 3/4 of all the league's players
by the early 1990s.
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Seeing athletes on TV,
along with their hoodies,
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their spandex, and their sneakers
lead to new trends,
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and vendors took notice.
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They are looking for the cool items
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because they've seen it on TV,
and they've been influenced by the fact
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that these are what all the kids
are going to be wearing.
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The lifestyle of young people
and their habits
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and things they're interested in
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increasingly have moved away from
formal business-style dressing
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towards leisure dressing.
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These new idols also inspired the fashions
of a new music genre.
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♪ My Adidas ♪
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Run-DMC released "My Adidas"
on their 1986 album Raising Hell...
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♪ I got 50 pair... ♪
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...the first rap album
to crack the Billboard Top 10.
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♪ My Adidas ♪
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Those lyrics prompted Adidas
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to set up an endorsement deal
with Run-DMC,
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the first of many partnerships
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between a clothing line
and a hip-hop artist.
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And those partnerships
helped democratize brands
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previously associated
with country clubs and exclusivity.
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This is Ralph Lauren,
you know what I'm saying?
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Take it back to Polo preppy days,
you know what I'm saying?
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For hip-hop performers to embrace that
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and sort of translate it in their own way
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I think was a real statement
about what status means
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and who has access to status
and how it's defined.
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Ultimately sort of who owned
the markers of success.
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This style came to be known as streetwear.
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Slowly, people historically marginalized
from the markers of success
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started to be the ones to influence them.
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And as hip-hop grew to be
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one of the most popular music genres
in the world, that style spread globally.
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[man] It started in New York City,
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moved out to mainstream America,
and then on to France...
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[woman] Japanese teens are dressing,
and, yes, even looking the part.
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It's just something
that appeals to me, really.
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It's hip-hop, though, isn't it?
It's streetwear.
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When you start having that kind of shift
from formal to casual to athletic
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00:13:32,019 --> 00:13:37,024
to, you know, whatever it-it may be,
all of those things sort of upset
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what we know to be,
um, the hierarchy of status,
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how we sort of very quickly
aesthetically define people.
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00:13:47,660 --> 00:13:50,621
Over the decades,
these trends have had different names--
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sportswear, activewear,
streetwear and now athleisure.
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00:13:55,042 --> 00:13:57,586
But they've all allowed us
to dress more casually,
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00:13:57,753 --> 00:14:01,715
and that's turned the meaning of clothes
upside down.
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00:14:01,799 --> 00:14:05,052
Gym clothes can signal wealth
better than fur coats.
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00:14:05,135 --> 00:14:07,972
Women wear clothes once reserved for men,
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00:14:08,055 --> 00:14:13,477
and billionaires make public appearances
in running shoes and hoodies.
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00:14:13,561 --> 00:14:15,855
But while more people
may dress the same way,
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00:14:15,938 --> 00:14:19,400
that doesn't mean
that they're all seen the same way.
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00:14:19,483 --> 00:14:24,405
Yes, they have the ability
to walk around wearing hoodies and jeans
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00:14:24,488 --> 00:14:29,702
because they are white dudes
in Silicon Valley who are billionaires.
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00:14:29,994 --> 00:14:32,663
Other people without that privilege,
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00:14:32,746 --> 00:14:36,041
um, don't get to walk around in hoodies.
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00:14:40,462 --> 00:14:42,756
For centuries,
people have fought for the right
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00:14:42,840 --> 00:14:46,594
to move freely, safely
and comfortably in public
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00:14:46,677 --> 00:14:49,263
and to show their bodies how they want to.
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00:14:49,346 --> 00:14:52,391
Clothing is still a battleground,
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00:14:52,474 --> 00:14:56,520
and you just need to turn on the news
to see that that battle isn't over.
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00:14:57,146 --> 00:14:59,398
[male newscaster]
Protesters wore sports jerseys,
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00:14:59,481 --> 00:15:02,318
sleeveless shirts,
and baseball caps on backwards.
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00:15:02,401 --> 00:15:07,239
Items banned under a new dress code
in the city's nightclub district.
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00:15:07,323 --> 00:15:10,618
The fact that he was black
and the fact that he's wearing a hoodie
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00:15:10,701 --> 00:15:12,578
makes him suspicious walking home.
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00:15:12,661 --> 00:15:15,956
[man] The mayor of Cannes
is temporarily banning women
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00:15:16,040 --> 00:15:19,251
from wearing burkinis
at the French Riviera's beaches.
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00:15:19,335 --> 00:15:22,922
Serena Williams will be banned
from wearing her black cat suit.
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00:15:23,005 --> 00:15:26,133
Girls wearing leggings
without shorts or a skirt to cover them
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00:15:26,216 --> 00:15:27,635
will not be allowed on campus.
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00:15:27,718 --> 00:15:31,055
The company's founder and chairman,
Chip Wilson, he is stepping down
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00:15:31,138 --> 00:15:33,515
after an uproar over these comments
that he made...
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00:15:33,599 --> 00:15:37,478
Frankly, some woman's bodies
just actually don't work for it.
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00:15:37,561 --> 00:15:41,607
We're sick and tired
of our clothing and our bodies
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00:15:41,690 --> 00:15:43,192
being policed by men.
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00:15:46,570 --> 00:15:51,158
Athleisure and sportswear
and cultural shifts
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00:15:51,241 --> 00:15:54,870
have allowed us to value...
274
00:15:54,954 --> 00:15:57,539
personal comfort above...
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00:15:58,540 --> 00:15:59,917
everything else.
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[closing music playing]