1 00:00:03,400 --> 00:00:06,480 Romania is a land of a thousand faces. 2 00:00:13,920 --> 00:00:17,160 The crossing point between the Occident and the Orient 3 00:00:17,240 --> 00:00:19,960 and a melting pot of different cultures. 4 00:00:21,960 --> 00:00:25,760 It is also a country unlike any other in Europe. 5 00:00:26,560 --> 00:00:29,480 With over 60 percent of the Carpathian Mountains 6 00:00:29,560 --> 00:00:30,720 weaving through it, 7 00:00:30,800 --> 00:00:36,120 Romania is the custodian of Europe's last great wilderness area, 8 00:00:36,200 --> 00:00:39,120 its largest remaining forest 9 00:00:39,200 --> 00:00:42,360 and two thirds of its surviving alpha predators. 10 00:00:45,640 --> 00:00:47,200 As well as native Romanians 11 00:00:47,280 --> 00:00:50,400 it is home to a Saxon and Hungarian culture, 12 00:00:50,480 --> 00:00:55,680 Roma, Aroman, Lipovan and many more disparate peoples 13 00:00:55,760 --> 00:00:58,760 who have been united by the borders of a nation 14 00:00:58,840 --> 00:01:03,320 that stretches from the edge of Serbia, Hungary and the Ukraine 15 00:01:03,400 --> 00:01:05,240 to the very mouth of the Danube. 16 00:01:07,400 --> 00:01:11,760 Here Europe's largest wetland fans out into the Black Sea 17 00:01:12,480 --> 00:01:15,200 and provides the country with yet another vast, 18 00:01:15,280 --> 00:01:17,920 priceless and fragile ecosystem, 19 00:01:18,000 --> 00:01:20,880 a haven for wild birds, 20 00:01:20,960 --> 00:01:25,240 interwoven with countless waterways, reed beds and lakes 21 00:01:25,320 --> 00:01:28,960 that meander for over 3,000 square kilometers. 22 00:01:30,800 --> 00:01:34,320 Inland Romania is rich with ancient villages, 23 00:01:34,400 --> 00:01:40,120 majestic national parks, ruined castles, historic cities 24 00:01:40,200 --> 00:01:43,520 and a legacy that dates back thousands of years. 25 00:01:44,600 --> 00:01:49,320 But increasingly this unique country's natural and cultural heritage 26 00:01:49,400 --> 00:01:52,920 is under threat from reckless development 27 00:01:53,000 --> 00:01:54,520 and a race to modernize 28 00:01:54,600 --> 00:01:57,200 which is often destroying the very things 29 00:01:57,280 --> 00:01:59,120 that could ensure prosperity 30 00:01:59,200 --> 00:02:02,600 and a sustainable livelihood for generations to come. 31 00:02:05,440 --> 00:02:09,000 Over the next eight episodes I will be embarking on a road trip 32 00:02:09,800 --> 00:02:11,720 through Romania's eight historic regions, 33 00:02:11,800 --> 00:02:14,400 discovering fabulous treasures... 34 00:02:16,200 --> 00:02:17,200 natural wonders... 35 00:02:18,200 --> 00:02:19,720 medieval marvels... 36 00:02:21,800 --> 00:02:22,920 mouthwatering dishes 37 00:02:23,000 --> 00:02:24,640 and the people that make this 38 00:02:24,720 --> 00:02:28,240 one of the warmest and most hospitable countries in the world. 39 00:02:30,800 --> 00:02:33,880 En route I will be picking up some sensational recipes... 40 00:02:34,800 --> 00:02:38,480 hearing songs and tunes that have almost been forgotten 41 00:02:38,560 --> 00:02:41,960 and meeting a handful of people that still remember and preserve them. 42 00:02:45,200 --> 00:02:46,520 We will also be finding out 43 00:02:46,600 --> 00:02:50,880 how this hugely misunderstood country is emerging from post Communist chaos 44 00:02:52,000 --> 00:02:55,120 and identifying some of the challenges it faces 45 00:02:55,200 --> 00:02:59,200 and how tourism could provide one of its best hopes for the future. 46 00:03:26,320 --> 00:03:27,360 Welcome back. 47 00:03:27,880 --> 00:03:31,920 This week we are exploring Romania's largest and most iconic region, 48 00:03:32,600 --> 00:03:36,400 mistaken by many Americans and others as a country in its own right. 49 00:03:37,280 --> 00:03:40,720 In fact Transylvania is a name that most of the western world 50 00:03:40,800 --> 00:03:44,280 still associates with Dracula, werewolves and folk legend. 51 00:03:45,200 --> 00:03:48,840 But this land beyond the forest defies all preconceptions 52 00:03:49,800 --> 00:03:52,800 and remains one of the most culturally important 53 00:03:52,160 --> 00:03:54,240 and beautiful parts of Eastern Europe. 54 00:04:02,960 --> 00:04:06,320 We commence our journey an hour and a half south of Cluj Napoca, 55 00:04:06,400 --> 00:04:09,560 deep in the Apuseni hills above the small town of Salciua. 56 00:04:11,000 --> 00:04:13,840 Here, perched on a mountaintop, is an eco-village 57 00:04:13,920 --> 00:04:17,600 that some writers are describing as Romania's very own Shangri La. 58 00:04:18,800 --> 00:04:23,400 I wanted to see if the tales were true and whether the so-called Raven's Nest 59 00:04:23,120 --> 00:04:25,560 might make a good role model for rural tourism. 60 00:04:26,600 --> 00:04:28,000 The only issue was getting there. 61 00:04:29,800 --> 00:04:33,640 Well, I was warned that Raven's Nest is a bit remote, 62 00:04:33,720 --> 00:04:36,160 but I wasn't expecting this. 63 00:04:36,240 --> 00:04:39,560 I think I should have brought a scrambler instead of a road bike, 64 00:04:39,640 --> 00:04:41,440 however we shall try and get there. 65 00:04:42,800 --> 00:04:43,600 I may not make it. 66 00:05:33,520 --> 00:05:35,160 -Adrian! -Hey Charlie! 67 00:05:35,240 --> 00:05:36,400 Hi! 68 00:05:36,600 --> 00:05:38,440 -Welcome to the nest! -Thank you very much. 69 00:05:38,520 --> 00:05:41,600 Actually this is the first Harley to make it here, congratulations! 70 00:05:41,680 --> 00:05:43,600 You don't have hoards of Harley Davidsons coming here? 71 00:05:43,680 --> 00:05:45,800 Well, we are a little bit off the track... 72 00:05:45,160 --> 00:05:46,480 You are a bit off the track. 73 00:05:47,120 --> 00:05:47,960 Good to have you here. 74 00:05:48,400 --> 00:05:50,640 This is just... What a location! 75 00:05:50,720 --> 00:05:52,400 -Seriously! -Thank you! 76 00:05:52,120 --> 00:05:54,120 How on earth did you manage to get everything up here? 77 00:05:54,200 --> 00:05:59,720 Well with a 4x4 and a lot of patience. Five years to be more exact. 78 00:05:59,800 --> 00:06:01,840 It must still feel like a dream. 79 00:06:01,920 --> 00:06:03,600 Well it is actually. 80 00:06:06,400 --> 00:06:07,400 What a beautiful room. 81 00:06:07,480 --> 00:06:11,800 Thank you! This is the man who painted it, this is Silviu. 82 00:06:11,160 --> 00:06:12,760 -Silviu. Charlie. -Nice to meet you. 83 00:06:12,840 --> 00:06:13,640 Cheers. 84 00:06:14,680 --> 00:06:16,400 It feels slightly American Indian you know. 85 00:06:16,480 --> 00:06:19,960 It might be because there are actually traditional roots everywhere 86 00:06:20,400 --> 00:06:25,960 and you have here the symbols of water, of sun, of fertility, or... 87 00:06:26,520 --> 00:06:28,240 -The four elements. -Exactly. 88 00:06:28,320 --> 00:06:30,240 It's fascinating because it puts a good case 89 00:06:30,320 --> 00:06:33,840 for one universal cradle of civilization, doesn't it... originally? 90 00:06:33,920 --> 00:06:34,920 Yeah, exactly. 91 00:06:35,000 --> 00:06:39,840 Because I've seen drawings and paintings like this in South America, in Peru... 92 00:06:39,920 --> 00:06:43,680 Even if you take a deep look actually 93 00:06:43,760 --> 00:06:50,200 in the Romanian carpet models and designs you can find... 94 00:06:50,280 --> 00:06:52,440 -You can find themes of that as well. -Exactly. 95 00:06:52,520 --> 00:06:55,520 Obviously it's a painstaking process. 96 00:06:55,600 --> 00:06:59,000 So fortunately it's an ongoing project. 97 00:06:59,800 --> 00:07:01,200 Yeah, so you need to spend a lot of time here, 98 00:07:01,280 --> 00:07:02,880 eke it out for another couple of years if I were you! 99 00:07:02,960 --> 00:07:03,760 Yeah. 100 00:07:05,360 --> 00:07:07,520 I'm imagining that this is probably palinca 101 00:07:07,600 --> 00:07:09,560 judging by the prune on the side. 102 00:07:09,640 --> 00:07:11,480 This is brandy and this is a dry prune. 103 00:07:11,560 --> 00:07:15,720 Is this a palinca to slug or is it a palinca to sip? 104 00:07:15,800 --> 00:07:20,800 Well, you can do it both ways, but I would do it my way. 105 00:07:20,880 --> 00:07:23,800 I'll just watch you first. 106 00:07:24,920 --> 00:07:26,120 Right, there's my answer. 107 00:07:26,200 --> 00:07:27,680 -Cheers guys! -Thanks. 108 00:07:31,120 --> 00:07:32,360 That will put hairs on your chest! 109 00:07:33,840 --> 00:07:34,880 Very nice! 110 00:07:35,400 --> 00:07:37,320 So it's like having a tequila with a slice of lemon, 111 00:07:37,400 --> 00:07:39,000 but you have a palinca with a plum afterward. 112 00:07:39,800 --> 00:07:40,560 It's exactly the same, but our way. 113 00:07:40,640 --> 00:07:41,440 It's a sweetener. 114 00:07:43,200 --> 00:07:44,000 Very nice. 115 00:07:45,120 --> 00:07:47,720 -Cheers! -Cheers! 116 00:07:50,720 --> 00:07:51,840 Let me show you where your room is, 117 00:07:51,920 --> 00:07:54,600 and then when you come back I have a surprise for you. 118 00:07:54,680 --> 00:07:56,280 Fantastic, we like surprises. 119 00:08:12,280 --> 00:08:13,280 Look at that view. 120 00:08:14,240 --> 00:08:15,640 What a beautiful room. 121 00:08:16,720 --> 00:08:18,280 I think I got the best seat in the house. 122 00:08:26,720 --> 00:08:29,560 Having dropped my bags I joined Adi for the grand tour. 123 00:08:32,600 --> 00:08:33,480 I love the hammocks. 124 00:08:34,480 --> 00:08:37,280 Actually the idea is to make them 125 00:08:37,360 --> 00:08:40,600 a chilling place for the tourists that come here to Raven's Nest. 126 00:08:40,680 --> 00:08:44,720 -So you can just find your own space. -Just relax, read a book, 127 00:08:44,800 --> 00:08:48,280 enjoy the sounds of nature and take a nap. 128 00:08:48,360 --> 00:08:49,440 -Take it all in. -Yeah, take it all in. 129 00:08:49,520 --> 00:08:51,800 How did you find this place seriously? 130 00:08:51,880 --> 00:08:54,920 I was a student 15 years ago. 131 00:08:55,000 --> 00:08:59,600 I was hiking through these mountains and I found this spot and I said: 132 00:09:00,360 --> 00:09:02,800 -In few years... -I need to be here. 133 00:09:02,160 --> 00:09:06,920 I need to own this, I need to be here, I need to make a good thing. 134 00:09:07,000 --> 00:09:08,320 But how did you go about doing that? 135 00:09:08,400 --> 00:09:11,400 I mean it must have been tricky to find even who owned the land? 136 00:09:11,120 --> 00:09:14,840 Romanian bureaucracy yes, it was hard, but we finally made it 137 00:09:14,920 --> 00:09:18,880 and after that we realized that we can start a great project. 138 00:09:20,440 --> 00:09:23,120 So where are we going? I'm thinking a viewpoint right? 139 00:09:23,200 --> 00:09:26,480 Well there is a view point yes, and you are going to love it. 140 00:09:26,560 --> 00:09:29,960 It's actually our surprise that we have here. 141 00:09:40,200 --> 00:09:41,400 That is the surprise. 142 00:09:41,480 --> 00:09:46,000 I was expecting something good, but not quite like this. 143 00:09:46,520 --> 00:09:47,560 We're in paradise. 144 00:10:07,520 --> 00:10:10,440 Do you find that some people are put off by how remote it is here? 145 00:10:10,520 --> 00:10:13,560 Yes and I tell them that's why is called the hidden village. 146 00:10:13,640 --> 00:10:14,840 It needs to be remote 147 00:10:14,920 --> 00:10:18,480 in order to give you the true experience that we want to provide. 148 00:10:18,560 --> 00:10:20,440 And it's a good process of natural selection 149 00:10:20,520 --> 00:10:23,800 because the sort of people that don't appreciate a place like this 150 00:10:23,160 --> 00:10:24,480 don't come presumably? 151 00:10:24,560 --> 00:10:29,360 Most of them appreciate the remoteness of this place 152 00:10:29,440 --> 00:10:32,440 and they need this, they need the silence, 153 00:10:32,520 --> 00:10:34,440 they need the energy, 154 00:10:34,520 --> 00:10:38,200 and they need the intimacy that this place provides. 155 00:10:38,280 --> 00:10:39,560 When I see something like this 156 00:10:39,640 --> 00:10:41,920 it sort of sets a standard for other people to follow, 157 00:10:42,000 --> 00:10:44,360 did you consider yourself when you were doing this 158 00:10:44,440 --> 00:10:49,280 to be creating a place that represents all that's beautiful about Romania, 159 00:10:49,360 --> 00:10:53,160 the tradition, the natural beauty, the forest, all these things, 160 00:10:53,240 --> 00:10:54,360 or did it just happen? 161 00:10:54,440 --> 00:10:57,720 No, it just happened because I think this is the way, 162 00:10:57,800 --> 00:10:59,840 the right way to do it, 163 00:10:59,920 --> 00:11:04,280 but I hope we can be a model for other people 164 00:11:04,360 --> 00:11:07,920 in order to promote Romania. 165 00:11:08,000 --> 00:11:12,960 This is my way of showing other people my country... 166 00:11:13,400 --> 00:11:16,320 I'm sure that there are other good ways, 167 00:11:16,400 --> 00:11:19,880 but people should be focused on 168 00:11:19,960 --> 00:11:23,640 authenticity, architecture, gastronomy. 169 00:11:23,720 --> 00:11:25,840 -And the natural beauty. -Yes. 170 00:11:25,920 --> 00:11:29,520 I was racking my brains to try to think what I would add to this 171 00:11:29,600 --> 00:11:30,920 because you always go somewhere and you think, 172 00:11:31,000 --> 00:11:34,200 "Well, what's missing?" and really I can't think of much, 173 00:11:34,280 --> 00:11:36,760 I guess maybe you could have a hot tub, you know? 174 00:11:36,840 --> 00:11:39,200 Charlie we thought about this already. 175 00:11:39,280 --> 00:11:41,760 -You've already considered this. -And the hot tub is right behind you. 176 00:11:41,840 --> 00:11:43,840 -The place you didn't show me earlier? -Yes. 177 00:11:43,920 --> 00:11:45,440 -That's very annoying! -Yeah. 178 00:11:45,520 --> 00:11:46,640 So the one thing I thought 179 00:11:46,720 --> 00:11:49,440 might potentially be an improvement you've already done. 180 00:11:49,520 --> 00:11:50,560 That's right. 181 00:11:59,560 --> 00:12:02,800 That's hot, that is seriously hot. 182 00:12:03,440 --> 00:12:04,440 This is perfect. 183 00:12:04,520 --> 00:12:07,960 -So, welcome to Transylvania Charlie. -What can I say! 184 00:12:08,400 --> 00:12:10,600 Flavors of Romania, it just keeps getting better and better. 185 00:12:10,680 --> 00:12:13,280 -Enjoy! -Thank you so much. 186 00:12:13,360 --> 00:12:14,840 You're welcome. 187 00:12:14,920 --> 00:12:16,240 To your very good health. 188 00:12:17,120 --> 00:12:18,120 That's it! I quit! 189 00:12:22,240 --> 00:12:26,760 Raven's Nest is one of the best places to relax I've been to in Romania. 190 00:12:26,840 --> 00:12:28,240 After a delicious dinner, 191 00:12:28,320 --> 00:12:31,360 it was time to indulge in that national past time 192 00:12:31,440 --> 00:12:34,560 and deeply primeval human urge to sit around a campfire, 193 00:12:34,640 --> 00:12:37,000 drinking beer, playing musical instruments 194 00:12:37,800 --> 00:12:39,800 and making up songs and stories late into the night. 195 00:12:52,800 --> 00:12:58,200 After 20 beers I can sing almost anything 196 00:13:04,800 --> 00:13:08,320 The next day I booked a mountain bike to explore the surrounding area. 197 00:13:08,400 --> 00:13:11,160 A feat best attempted after a hearty breakfast. 198 00:13:18,480 --> 00:13:20,680 What a fantastic spread! 199 00:13:20,760 --> 00:13:25,800 Bean salad, eggplant salad, baked vegetables, homemade pate, 200 00:13:25,160 --> 00:13:30,160 local cream cheese, more salad, well moving on from the salad, 201 00:13:30,240 --> 00:13:31,480 what have we got? 202 00:13:31,560 --> 00:13:34,680 Sausages, bacon, and eggs 203 00:13:34,760 --> 00:13:37,560 the quintessential ingredients for a full English breakfast. 204 00:13:38,280 --> 00:13:39,800 Marvelous. 205 00:13:42,560 --> 00:13:43,720 There we go, 206 00:13:45,360 --> 00:13:47,000 see if I can find some toast. 207 00:13:49,240 --> 00:13:52,240 The great thing about setting off on a trip from the Raven's Nest 208 00:13:52,320 --> 00:13:54,360 is at least for the first half of your journey, 209 00:13:54,440 --> 00:13:56,120 it's downhill all the way. 210 00:14:16,480 --> 00:14:18,480 Well it's on foot for now. 211 00:14:19,840 --> 00:14:22,200 I don't think I dare ride this through the thicket of bushes. 212 00:14:50,760 --> 00:14:54,120 I've gone too far again, I always go too far. 213 00:14:54,200 --> 00:14:55,560 The waterfall is 50 yards up there. 214 00:14:56,720 --> 00:14:58,600 But still, it goes to show 215 00:14:59,440 --> 00:15:02,960 that even if you take the wrong way you still find something beautiful. 216 00:15:03,400 --> 00:15:06,160 The river is just flowing straight into this rock. 217 00:15:06,240 --> 00:15:09,680 I think it's the entrance to a cave called "Huda lui Papara" 218 00:15:10,440 --> 00:15:12,880 and no one has managed to squeeze through it from this end. 219 00:15:13,640 --> 00:15:15,800 I'm certainly not going to start trying now. 220 00:15:16,520 --> 00:15:18,960 However for more reasons than that, 221 00:15:19,640 --> 00:15:21,960 you could describe this as a bottle neck, quite literally. 222 00:15:22,640 --> 00:15:23,760 And it's a shame, 223 00:15:23,840 --> 00:15:28,480 more evidence of people just chucking their rubbish into the river. 224 00:15:38,840 --> 00:15:41,560 Finally, I've found it. 225 00:15:42,800 --> 00:15:43,920 About 20 yards from where I put the bike 226 00:15:44,520 --> 00:15:47,760 as suppose to about a mile through forests, 227 00:15:47,840 --> 00:15:49,560 and down cliffs and along riverbeds. 228 00:15:51,480 --> 00:15:55,000 Still it was worth the trip albeit the long way round. 229 00:15:56,640 --> 00:16:00,440 Look at the colors in the rocks, pinks, blues, greys, whites, 230 00:16:01,640 --> 00:16:02,680 it's like a painting. 231 00:16:02,760 --> 00:16:04,440 I reckon there be gold in these hills. 232 00:16:05,520 --> 00:16:08,400 In fact there is, and that is proving to be a bit of a problem. 233 00:16:10,600 --> 00:16:12,240 After a long pedal back up the hill 234 00:16:12,320 --> 00:16:14,640 it was time to say goodbye to the Raven's Nest 235 00:16:15,400 --> 00:16:17,680 and set off to explore the rest of Transylvania, 236 00:16:18,320 --> 00:16:20,000 excited, recharged 237 00:16:20,800 --> 00:16:23,600 but a little reluctant to leave this panoramic paradise. 238 00:16:24,120 --> 00:16:27,760 Well I don't think you need a dream catcher, it's already happened. 239 00:16:29,160 --> 00:16:31,960 This has to be one of the most beautiful eco lodges 240 00:16:32,400 --> 00:16:34,000 I've seen in the whole of Romania, perhaps even in Europe. 241 00:16:34,800 --> 00:16:39,440 The attention to detail, the rooms, they are meticulous without being fussy 242 00:16:39,520 --> 00:16:42,760 and as for the view the location is just out of this world. 243 00:16:42,840 --> 00:16:45,560 I think if anyone wants to start an eco lodge or a hotel 244 00:16:45,640 --> 00:16:47,320 in this country and do it right 245 00:16:47,400 --> 00:16:50,760 they should come here and study the Raven's Nest for a couple of days. 246 00:16:51,320 --> 00:16:53,640 You can write a dissertation on this place. 247 00:17:10,600 --> 00:17:12,920 It is an enchanting drive back through the hills 248 00:17:13,000 --> 00:17:16,480 along the Aries River Valley, despite the odd novelty development. 249 00:17:20,320 --> 00:17:21,480 Turning right at Buru, 250 00:17:21,560 --> 00:17:25,400 we head south on a scenic road that winds down out of the hills, 251 00:17:25,120 --> 00:17:26,240 on its way towards Aiud. 252 00:17:31,360 --> 00:17:33,200 En route it's worth stopping at Rimetea, 253 00:17:33,280 --> 00:17:37,920 a 13th Century Hungarian mining town on the edge of the Trascau Mountains, 254 00:17:38,000 --> 00:17:40,960 recently granted Unesco World Heritage status. 255 00:17:42,200 --> 00:17:44,600 White washed houses and cobbled streets 256 00:17:44,680 --> 00:17:47,920 make this a picturesque place to stretch your legs 257 00:17:48,000 --> 00:17:52,320 and watch scenes that probably haven't changed much for hundreds of years. 258 00:17:53,240 --> 00:17:57,320 The major difference being the influx of tourists keen to spend their money 259 00:17:57,400 --> 00:18:00,240 or a night or two in one of its flourishing guesthouses. 260 00:18:01,200 --> 00:18:04,160 While some visitors arrive and leave by the coachload, 261 00:18:04,240 --> 00:18:07,760 this is also a delightful place to come for a long weekend hiking 262 00:18:07,840 --> 00:18:10,800 and exploring several ruined fortresses 263 00:18:10,160 --> 00:18:11,960 that lie hidden in the surrounding hills. 264 00:18:13,200 --> 00:18:16,320 But with too much to see and too little time, 265 00:18:16,400 --> 00:18:19,600 there was barely a moment to take it all in before driving on 266 00:18:19,680 --> 00:18:22,320 and southwards towards my next port of call, 267 00:18:22,400 --> 00:18:25,160 the medieval town of Alba Iulia. 268 00:18:48,120 --> 00:18:51,440 The history of this formidable city goes back to the Romans 269 00:18:51,520 --> 00:18:55,960 when Alba Iulia, then Apulum, was the capital of Roman occupied Dacia. 270 00:18:56,480 --> 00:19:00,360 This was mainly due to its proximity to gold mines in the Apuseni hills, 271 00:19:00,880 --> 00:19:02,920 one of the main reasons for Trajan's desire 272 00:19:03,000 --> 00:19:05,160 to conquer Dacia in the first place. 273 00:19:06,320 --> 00:19:09,360 Following the adoption of Christianity by Stephen the 1st 274 00:19:09,440 --> 00:19:11,520 it became a key religious center 275 00:19:11,600 --> 00:19:14,280 and the seat of the Roman Catholic church in Transylvania 276 00:19:14,800 --> 00:19:15,880 right through the middle ages. 277 00:19:16,800 --> 00:19:20,200 At the heart of the city is the Alba Carolina Citadel, 278 00:19:20,280 --> 00:19:23,320 constructed by Hapsburgs in the 1700's 279 00:19:23,400 --> 00:19:26,680 and laid out with seven bastions to form a heptagram, 280 00:19:26,760 --> 00:19:30,800 interestingly also a pagan symbol of magic power. 281 00:19:31,280 --> 00:19:35,320 The citadel has undergone extensive restoration in the last ten years 282 00:19:35,400 --> 00:19:36,560 and has now become a beacon 283 00:19:36,640 --> 00:19:39,600 for cultural tourists visiting Transylvania. 284 00:19:40,160 --> 00:19:43,920 I'm here to meet one of the people behind its spectacular makeover. 285 00:19:47,560 --> 00:19:48,360 Mihai. 286 00:19:48,440 --> 00:19:50,840 -Hello, Charlie, welcome to Alba Iulia. -Thank you. 287 00:19:55,920 --> 00:19:59,280 -So these guys are volunteers. -Yes, they are all volunteers 288 00:19:59,360 --> 00:20:02,480 and they are doing this every Friday for the public 289 00:20:02,560 --> 00:20:04,560 because almost all the country knows 290 00:20:04,640 --> 00:20:07,720 that this is the place where Romans and Dacians meet every Friday. 291 00:20:08,400 --> 00:20:11,840 It's, let's say the dynamic attraction of the city. 292 00:20:11,920 --> 00:20:15,600 They are the living lesson of history, of each day in Alba Iulia. 293 00:20:16,240 --> 00:20:18,200 It's annoying that the Romans always win isn't it? 294 00:20:18,280 --> 00:20:22,240 Yes, I would reverse the history a little bit but you know, 295 00:20:22,320 --> 00:20:23,760 as in real life, we cannot do that 296 00:20:23,840 --> 00:20:27,240 but it's a pity that the Dacians are always down. 297 00:20:27,320 --> 00:20:30,120 Yeah we should see the odd Roman soldier getting winged as well! 298 00:20:30,200 --> 00:20:33,800 We should pay someone to lose from the Romans. 299 00:20:58,400 --> 00:20:59,640 These two have to be brothers. 300 00:20:59,720 --> 00:21:03,680 I can tell you for sure that brotherly love can kill you sometime. 301 00:21:04,640 --> 00:21:07,800 And it's one of the major points of attraction 302 00:21:07,640 --> 00:21:09,640 between these re-enactment guys. 303 00:21:09,720 --> 00:21:12,440 They are judo instructors, if you want, trainers. 304 00:21:12,520 --> 00:21:15,440 -You can tell. -Professional. 305 00:21:15,520 --> 00:21:19,640 And they do all this for the love and happiness of the children. 306 00:21:19,720 --> 00:21:20,560 Yeah, kids must love this. 307 00:21:20,640 --> 00:21:25,400 Don't forget it's a re-enactment, but it's a show in the end. 308 00:21:25,120 --> 00:21:30,000 I guess the amphitheater, the gladiators, the slaves, I mean it all happened here? 309 00:21:30,800 --> 00:21:34,200 Yeah. We try to re-establish the history as it was 310 00:21:35,120 --> 00:21:37,840 and these volunteers do their best for that. 311 00:21:37,920 --> 00:21:39,760 Yeah, it's pretty good. It's informative. 312 00:21:39,840 --> 00:21:44,200 Alba Iulia is quite a mirror of the historical times 313 00:21:44,280 --> 00:21:47,680 or if you want it's a time machine. 314 00:21:51,120 --> 00:21:54,840 OK, Charlie I think that we should follow history by foot now. 315 00:21:54,920 --> 00:21:57,240 It's a good idea, we've seen the show let's walk. 316 00:21:57,320 --> 00:22:00,400 The commentator was saying that this is an actual temple right under our feet, 317 00:22:00,480 --> 00:22:02,400 these foundations. 318 00:22:02,120 --> 00:22:07,960 Yes, here were discovered the ruins of the first Christian temple 319 00:22:08,400 --> 00:22:10,160 from the whole of Romania, 320 00:22:10,240 --> 00:22:14,320 so it is in a period of conservation 321 00:22:14,400 --> 00:22:18,240 but we are deeply sure that in the future we're going to display it. 322 00:22:18,320 --> 00:22:21,200 So they were literally just filled in after they were discovered, 323 00:22:21,280 --> 00:22:24,240 protected and then covered over until the money is available. 324 00:22:24,320 --> 00:22:28,680 Yes. We have to wait just for another opportunity 325 00:22:28,760 --> 00:22:31,640 to get the right finances for this. 326 00:22:31,720 --> 00:22:33,720 Tell me a little bit about the restoration work 327 00:22:33,800 --> 00:22:35,920 because you were heavily involved in that, weren't you? 328 00:22:36,000 --> 00:22:38,760 The citadel was forbidden just because of the fact 329 00:22:38,840 --> 00:22:41,960 that the military was inside the ancient walls 330 00:22:42,400 --> 00:22:44,720 and the access was not allowed for anybody. 331 00:22:44,800 --> 00:22:49,360 After we managed to gain all the territory from the military, 332 00:22:49,440 --> 00:22:52,520 we invested European money, which was deeply great 333 00:22:52,600 --> 00:22:56,240 because otherwise it would have taken more than ten years for us to... 334 00:22:56,320 --> 00:22:58,600 -To raise the funds to do this. -Yes, to raise the funds. 335 00:23:00,200 --> 00:23:02,200 There is still a fair amount of work to do here isn't it? 336 00:23:02,280 --> 00:23:06,880 It is, it never ends because the history it never ends itself. 337 00:23:06,960 --> 00:23:13,240 And we are still aiming for more funds and other opportunities to continue 338 00:23:13,320 --> 00:23:16,960 what we propose to do here in Alba Iulia. 339 00:23:17,400 --> 00:23:21,680 How do you go about making sure that you do get it historically accurate 340 00:23:21,760 --> 00:23:23,840 when you undertake a project like this? 341 00:23:24,520 --> 00:23:27,960 We are taking into consideration the advice of the scientists 342 00:23:28,720 --> 00:23:32,440 who observe what the historical facts were 343 00:23:32,520 --> 00:23:34,960 and we try as much as possible to respect those. 344 00:23:35,400 --> 00:23:36,400 -To stick to those. -Yes, stick to them. 345 00:23:36,480 --> 00:23:41,560 Alba Iulia doesn't mean just the citadel, it is developing the city. 346 00:23:41,640 --> 00:23:44,760 I think that's the point, it's not just about the citadel, 347 00:23:44,840 --> 00:23:47,480 it's about actually bringing tourists here to look at them 348 00:23:47,560 --> 00:23:51,400 but also giving them reasons to stay and to spend the night here 349 00:23:51,120 --> 00:23:54,840 and to therefore put their money back into the local economy. 350 00:23:54,920 --> 00:23:56,920 Probably, but you should consider this: 351 00:23:57,000 --> 00:24:02,640 all that has been done here was done for the citizens of Alba Iulia. 352 00:24:02,720 --> 00:24:03,840 -Yes for the residents. -The residents. 353 00:24:03,920 --> 00:24:10,320 It was made for them first and second we are looking at it as a touristic tool 354 00:24:10,400 --> 00:24:12,800 and yes, in a very short time 355 00:24:12,880 --> 00:24:17,960 Alba Iulia will mean something on the European Historical tourist maps. 356 00:24:19,800 --> 00:24:22,520 At midday every Friday and Saturday from May to September 357 00:24:22,600 --> 00:24:24,960 you can also watch the changing of the guard, 358 00:24:25,400 --> 00:24:27,720 a ritual dating back to the Austrian Empire. 359 00:24:28,360 --> 00:24:29,520 For half an hour, 360 00:24:29,600 --> 00:24:33,240 cavalry and artillery divisions march through the streets of the citadel 361 00:24:33,320 --> 00:24:36,360 before gathering on the ramparts to finish with a bang. 362 00:24:51,160 --> 00:24:52,560 I have to say it's a far cry 363 00:24:52,640 --> 00:24:54,320 from the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace, 364 00:24:54,400 --> 00:24:56,920 but arguably more spectacular. 365 00:24:57,000 --> 00:24:58,880 Although I do have a slight ringing in my ears. 366 00:25:04,480 --> 00:25:05,280 Sorry to interrupt. 367 00:25:05,800 --> 00:25:08,480 I think the point is that restoration is a tricky business, 368 00:25:08,560 --> 00:25:10,920 it's not always possible to get it exactly right 369 00:25:11,000 --> 00:25:15,120 but they've done a pretty good job and in five years, with you know, 370 00:25:15,200 --> 00:25:17,360 the fund available and the people here 371 00:25:17,440 --> 00:25:22,160 are working hard to recreate the citadel in its former glory, 372 00:25:22,240 --> 00:25:24,680 so thumbs up to Alba Iulia. 373 00:25:31,640 --> 00:25:35,200 South of Alba Iulia and the horizon climbs towards the clouds. 374 00:25:36,000 --> 00:25:38,800 Here the Carpathians are at their most breath taking 375 00:25:39,320 --> 00:25:42,920 with the Fagaras, Parang and distant Retezat mountains 376 00:25:43,000 --> 00:25:47,680 providing an almost impassable barrier between north and South West Romania. 377 00:25:48,600 --> 00:25:53,120 While there are of course trunk roads and highways skirting these misty peaks, 378 00:25:53,200 --> 00:25:56,560 several of the most beautiful roads weave right through them. 379 00:25:57,400 --> 00:26:00,400 I have taken time out from my cultural tour 380 00:26:00,120 --> 00:26:03,400 to explore the Transalpina or Kings Road 381 00:26:03,120 --> 00:26:06,400 that links Transylvania with Oltenia to the South. 382 00:26:07,000 --> 00:26:11,320 Being a route famous for its serpentine coils and breath taking views 383 00:26:11,400 --> 00:26:15,640 I asked a couple of fellow bikers from Sibiu to join me for the ride. 384 00:26:15,720 --> 00:26:16,520 Thank you so much. 385 00:26:17,880 --> 00:26:20,840 Easy to find, obvious mark points. 386 00:26:21,800 --> 00:26:25,880 This is a nice spot, I guess is much more spectacular further up. 387 00:26:25,960 --> 00:26:29,800 You will see, it's one of the most spectacular bike roads in Europe. 388 00:26:29,880 --> 00:26:30,680 Let's do this. 389 00:26:55,720 --> 00:26:56,520 We made it. 390 00:26:59,600 --> 00:27:01,000 What a great ride. 391 00:27:01,600 --> 00:27:03,920 That was a lot of fun, thank you so much. 392 00:27:04,000 --> 00:27:06,480 -We said we'll get to the lake and... -Here we are. 393 00:27:06,560 --> 00:27:07,680 Sadly no time to go to the top. 394 00:27:07,760 --> 00:27:09,560 -And not enough gas. -And not enough gas. 395 00:27:09,640 --> 00:27:12,200 It's another 80 km up and another 80 km back down. 396 00:27:12,280 --> 00:27:14,320 So this is where the buck stops 397 00:27:14,400 --> 00:27:18,200 and also we would be in Oltenia and we've already been to Oltenia. 398 00:27:18,280 --> 00:27:21,320 So Ovidiu you take tours around Romania by bike, how does that work? 399 00:27:21,880 --> 00:27:25,760 It works good because we are lucky, we are in the heart of Transylvania, 400 00:27:25,840 --> 00:27:32,640 every cool destination around it's let's say like 80 or 100km from Sibiu 401 00:27:32,720 --> 00:27:35,640 and this is like a very nice one day ride, 402 00:27:35,720 --> 00:27:37,960 like 200 km with some breaks, 403 00:27:38,400 --> 00:27:40,800 visit some castles or fortified churches, 404 00:27:40,880 --> 00:27:43,000 the road is nice, have some traditional food, 405 00:27:43,800 --> 00:27:46,000 you have everything, you have the lake, you have the river, the mountains. 406 00:27:46,800 --> 00:27:48,400 Except a gas station half way up. 407 00:27:48,120 --> 00:27:51,840 Yes, this is a bit more adrenaline than we need. 408 00:27:52,400 --> 00:27:55,680 Well we've got enough gas to make it down the hill I think. 409 00:27:55,760 --> 00:27:58,480 So is there like a bikers club in Sibiu? 410 00:27:58,560 --> 00:28:00,480 Yeah there are some biker's clubs, 411 00:28:00,560 --> 00:28:04,440 the scene is quite big now and goes in different directions. 412 00:28:04,520 --> 00:28:05,520 What about you Paul, 413 00:28:05,600 --> 00:28:07,800 what do you actually do when you are not on your bike? 414 00:28:08,440 --> 00:28:11,800 When I'm not on my bike at work at a tech company 415 00:28:11,160 --> 00:28:12,960 and it leaves me a lot of free time 416 00:28:13,760 --> 00:28:17,520 and I just tour around the country with my friends. 417 00:28:17,600 --> 00:28:21,920 I think it's a really great way to experience the Romanian countryside. 418 00:28:22,000 --> 00:28:25,400 It is a slight risk with the roads I guess. 419 00:28:25,120 --> 00:28:29,320 You see today everything is flat and sometime bam, a hole. 420 00:28:29,400 --> 00:28:33,560 The roads were worse, but now it's getting better and better. 421 00:28:33,640 --> 00:28:36,880 You see this road here is perfect. 422 00:28:36,960 --> 00:28:39,760 Beautiful. Absolutely beautiful it's a joy to be on a bike, 423 00:28:40,760 --> 00:28:44,440 and Romanian drivers are not as bad as people say. 424 00:28:44,520 --> 00:28:45,920 No, no they are not that bad. 425 00:28:46,000 --> 00:28:47,480 And the biodiversity, 426 00:28:47,560 --> 00:28:50,800 I've seen a lot of biodiversity on my windshield. 427 00:28:52,840 --> 00:28:56,800 I think there must be about a hundred different varieties of insect life 428 00:28:56,880 --> 00:28:59,440 that I've squashed on my way up here... 429 00:28:59,520 --> 00:29:02,000 -And Ovidiu you are a tattoo artist. -Yes. 430 00:29:02,800 --> 00:29:06,120 So you design your own tattoos as well and you draw them and create the art? 431 00:29:06,200 --> 00:29:09,240 Yes, I travel a lot in Europe at tattoo conventions 432 00:29:09,320 --> 00:29:13,680 and I try to find new horizons for me 433 00:29:13,760 --> 00:29:20,400 because my job was almost illegal and didn't exist a few years ago 434 00:29:20,480 --> 00:29:23,600 and especially in the time when the border was closed for us, 435 00:29:23,680 --> 00:29:25,400 that was in the communist time 436 00:29:25,480 --> 00:29:28,840 and after the communist time was something like a stigma, but not anymore. 437 00:29:28,920 --> 00:29:29,720 Yeah. 438 00:29:29,800 --> 00:29:31,360 Well it seems to have gone the other way now in Romania. 439 00:29:31,440 --> 00:29:34,520 Yeah sure. Now it's almost in the mainstream. 440 00:29:34,600 --> 00:29:36,360 So if I come to you with some ideas 441 00:29:36,440 --> 00:29:40,920 then you can help me distil them into a symbol or a drawing. 442 00:29:41,000 --> 00:29:41,920 Yes, definitely, 443 00:29:42,000 --> 00:29:45,520 if you come with the idea then I'm the one who makes it real. 444 00:29:45,600 --> 00:29:47,400 Well, let's head back to Sibiu, have a beer 445 00:29:47,480 --> 00:29:50,520 and I'll have a think about that. 446 00:29:50,600 --> 00:29:52,760 Better think about it first and then have the beer. 447 00:29:54,160 --> 00:29:56,560 -Yes, that's a crucial mistake. -Yeah, sure. 448 00:29:56,640 --> 00:29:59,800 To have a beer and then think it's a great idea for a tattoo. 449 00:29:59,880 --> 00:30:02,240 OK, well thank you for taking me up here. 450 00:30:02,320 --> 00:30:04,560 I feel like we are on the roof of the world. 451 00:30:05,800 --> 00:30:09,560 Thank you for bringing us here, actually we need people like you guys 452 00:30:09,640 --> 00:30:13,720 to remind us what a beautiful treasure we have here in Romania. 453 00:30:13,800 --> 00:30:18,400 Let's hope it continues to be so, because in many areas it's under threat. 454 00:30:18,120 --> 00:30:21,320 Yes, you see the wood trucks there are a lot, 455 00:30:21,400 --> 00:30:22,600 especially in the night. 456 00:30:22,680 --> 00:30:24,800 Yeah, that's when they come through. 457 00:30:24,160 --> 00:30:26,520 Well I'm pleased to say that there haven't been so many on this trip 458 00:30:26,600 --> 00:30:28,680 and this area is mostly protected, isn't it? 459 00:30:28,760 --> 00:30:31,960 Yes, but I cannot say the same about the villages 460 00:30:32,400 --> 00:30:34,280 which are not on the main streets. 461 00:30:34,360 --> 00:30:36,360 Well, we are going to be see in more of that later in the series, 462 00:30:36,440 --> 00:30:40,480 but for now, let's go back down to Sibiu 463 00:30:40,560 --> 00:30:42,480 and have ourselves a beer. 464 00:30:43,800 --> 00:30:45,280 Maybe talk about tattoo's first and then have a beer. 465 00:30:45,360 --> 00:30:47,280 OK, let's do this. 466 00:30:47,360 --> 00:30:51,120 My leg, I think it's gone to sleep, take it easy! 467 00:31:09,840 --> 00:31:14,800 The next leg of my journey takes me towards the heart of Saxon Transylvania. 468 00:31:14,160 --> 00:31:17,480 This is an area famed for its historic villages 469 00:31:17,560 --> 00:31:20,560 and fortified churches and citadels, 470 00:31:20,640 --> 00:31:24,120 a place largely defined by the German speaking peoples 471 00:31:24,200 --> 00:31:26,840 who were invited here in the mid 12th Century 472 00:31:26,920 --> 00:31:30,440 to defend Hungary's eastern borders against foreign invaders. 473 00:31:31,640 --> 00:31:34,800 While relatively few Saxons remain, 474 00:31:34,160 --> 00:31:38,680 their architectural legacy serves as a magnet for cultural tourists 475 00:31:38,760 --> 00:31:40,800 who pay sumptuously 476 00:31:40,160 --> 00:31:44,480 to experience Transylvania's so-called medieval landscape. 477 00:31:45,440 --> 00:31:47,920 Unfortunately this landscape is now under threat, 478 00:31:48,560 --> 00:31:52,280 as ancient villages lose more and more of their traditional houses 479 00:31:52,360 --> 00:31:56,680 to lack of subsidies, neglect, or insensitive redevelopment. 480 00:31:56,760 --> 00:32:02,320 The old russet tiled rooftops are almost entirely disappearing in many places, 481 00:32:02,400 --> 00:32:05,160 replaced by modern industrial materials. 482 00:32:06,400 --> 00:32:09,560 I have come here to the village of Apos to see how one association, 483 00:32:09,640 --> 00:32:12,960 run by friend and fellow conservationist Eugen Vaida, 484 00:32:13,400 --> 00:32:17,480 is helping to combat this trend by setting up traditional tile factories 485 00:32:17,560 --> 00:32:21,800 and training local people to once again produce and sell the genuine article. 486 00:32:22,880 --> 00:32:25,640 It's lovely to see it operational because you've been closed over the winter? 487 00:32:25,720 --> 00:32:29,400 Yes, it has been closed for five months it is just seasonal. 488 00:32:29,120 --> 00:32:30,280 So how's demand? 489 00:32:30,360 --> 00:32:34,000 Demand is very high, and we have sold out last year, 490 00:32:34,800 --> 00:32:37,440 also this one, all the tiles before even starting the production. 491 00:32:37,520 --> 00:32:39,200 Do you think people are waking up to the importance 492 00:32:39,280 --> 00:32:43,000 of putting traditional tiles back on traditional roofs? 493 00:32:43,800 --> 00:32:45,320 Definitely because everyone wants to have also the history, 494 00:32:45,400 --> 00:32:48,240 you know the story behind their products. 495 00:32:48,320 --> 00:32:50,600 These tiles integrate perfectly with the monuments. 496 00:32:50,680 --> 00:32:52,200 We have foreigners who buy, 497 00:32:52,280 --> 00:32:55,320 also Romanians from towns who are making guest-houses, 498 00:32:55,400 --> 00:32:58,520 they are buying these tiles, but also villagers just a few, 499 00:32:58,600 --> 00:33:00,760 not so many but still we also have villagers who buy. 500 00:33:00,840 --> 00:33:03,800 So they are not much more expensive 501 00:33:03,160 --> 00:33:07,400 than the industrial tiles that you constantly see advertised everywhere? 502 00:33:07,120 --> 00:33:10,360 They are quite similar I would say, it's just ten percent more 503 00:33:10,440 --> 00:33:14,480 because each hand made product is almost double or triple, 504 00:33:14,560 --> 00:33:16,320 but these are quite the same price. 505 00:33:16,400 --> 00:33:20,520 It is still quite a big sum of money for someone who is living in an old house 506 00:33:20,600 --> 00:33:22,440 where they need to fix the roof. 507 00:33:22,520 --> 00:33:25,560 Yes and you need support from the state definitely 508 00:33:25,640 --> 00:33:27,760 if you want to preserve the landscape and you have rules 509 00:33:27,840 --> 00:33:29,600 you should also get the help. 510 00:33:29,680 --> 00:33:31,480 People don't want to come to these villages 511 00:33:31,560 --> 00:33:33,360 and see ugly modern roofs on old buildings. 512 00:33:33,440 --> 00:33:34,520 Definitely. 513 00:33:34,600 --> 00:33:36,280 -You lose that timelessness don't you? -Certainly, 514 00:33:36,360 --> 00:33:37,960 but we should not do it just for tourists, 515 00:33:38,400 --> 00:33:40,120 it's a good income and we should promote this, 516 00:33:40,200 --> 00:33:44,560 but it's also part of our local identity because it's so different, 517 00:33:44,640 --> 00:33:47,000 Transylvania is so different, it's multicultural. 518 00:33:47,800 --> 00:33:50,440 How important is it to do everything the traditional way 519 00:33:50,520 --> 00:33:53,920 because it's quite a long process to create the tiles. 520 00:33:54,000 --> 00:33:57,720 Yes but is very important because it's preserving the landscape, 521 00:33:57,800 --> 00:34:00,520 the roof landscapes of Transylvania which are unique all over the world 522 00:34:00,600 --> 00:34:04,440 and this is also why it's called last medieval corner of Europe 523 00:34:04,520 --> 00:34:07,960 because it's also about the landscape. It's not just about nature. 524 00:34:09,800 --> 00:34:12,720 Each step is needed because otherwise you are not doing a high quality tile. 525 00:34:12,800 --> 00:34:17,800 You need time to dry them, you need good clay to be mixed, 526 00:34:17,160 --> 00:34:20,400 you need a good firing and you know they say after ten years 527 00:34:20,480 --> 00:34:23,240 you are a good beginner, so you need this experience. 528 00:34:23,320 --> 00:34:25,480 -It is a huge amount of skill involved. -Yes, exactly. 529 00:34:25,560 --> 00:34:26,960 Do they source the clay locally? 530 00:34:27,400 --> 00:34:29,680 Yeah we have here just in 200 meters, a hill. 531 00:34:31,720 --> 00:34:33,440 -The clay is squeezing out- -Yeah. 532 00:34:33,520 --> 00:34:34,440 Like cream. 533 00:34:35,600 --> 00:34:38,120 -So you wet it and then...? -You put the water inside 534 00:34:38,200 --> 00:34:42,240 and it goes around and is mixing it and it comes out on the bottom 535 00:34:42,320 --> 00:34:45,840 and here he also has some mixed clay 536 00:34:45,920 --> 00:34:49,240 with water so it's not so dry otherwise you cannot mix it so fast. 537 00:34:50,120 --> 00:34:51,880 What other projects have you got going? 538 00:34:51,960 --> 00:34:53,280 I mean this is a big concern I know. 539 00:34:53,360 --> 00:34:56,640 Yes, we do also conservation and training courses 540 00:34:56,720 --> 00:35:00,000 and we also want to preserve monuments. 541 00:35:00,800 --> 00:35:05,400 We have over 600 monuments which are in a stage of collapse and pre collapse. 542 00:35:05,120 --> 00:35:08,800 Just in southern Transylvania we want to make a pilot project 543 00:35:08,160 --> 00:35:13,440 which then different stakeholders should take over in other regions. 544 00:35:13,520 --> 00:35:15,720 So basically create once again an example 545 00:35:15,800 --> 00:35:17,760 that can be rolled out across the country. 546 00:35:17,840 --> 00:35:20,120 It's called The Ambulance for Monuments. 547 00:35:20,200 --> 00:35:21,440 Is it an actual ambulance? 548 00:35:22,120 --> 00:35:25,760 -It is, it has tools, it has... -Do you have a light at the top? 549 00:35:25,840 --> 00:35:28,640 No is not just calling 112. 550 00:35:28,720 --> 00:35:31,840 If someone gives free materials we are doing the job 551 00:35:31,920 --> 00:35:34,720 so we need a donor for materials at least so we can intervene. 552 00:35:34,800 --> 00:35:37,320 This is the rule otherwise it is not sustainable. 553 00:35:37,400 --> 00:35:38,920 If we just go around and... 554 00:35:39,000 --> 00:35:41,720 So you provide the labor force to come and restore and repair these... 555 00:35:41,800 --> 00:35:45,240 And also the documentation and then we get the permits for them. 556 00:35:45,320 --> 00:35:48,320 So maybe you can stop more of these beautiful old churches 557 00:35:48,400 --> 00:35:49,560 from falling down and the towers. 558 00:35:49,640 --> 00:35:52,800 Yes, we focus on Saxon and Romanian churches. 559 00:35:52,880 --> 00:35:54,400 Yes it's a nice idea. 560 00:35:54,960 --> 00:35:56,160 Before leaving the area 561 00:35:56,240 --> 00:35:59,720 I drove to the village of Altana to track down the architects ambulance 562 00:35:59,800 --> 00:36:02,520 which was parked outside the local fortified church, 563 00:36:03,800 --> 00:36:06,640 precariously perched on a hill and facing imminent collapse. 564 00:36:07,200 --> 00:36:10,280 Or at least it would be were in not for these guys. 565 00:36:13,320 --> 00:36:15,600 This is a typical example of a monument 566 00:36:15,680 --> 00:36:18,400 that without help is on the verge of falling down, 567 00:36:19,800 --> 00:36:22,400 so it's a case of prioritizing the most urgent patients 568 00:36:22,480 --> 00:36:27,240 and rushing to their rescue before the bell tolls. 569 00:36:28,800 --> 00:36:31,800 What we need of course is hundreds of schemes like this 570 00:36:32,600 --> 00:36:35,400 all helping all the buildings all over Romania 571 00:36:35,480 --> 00:36:38,360 because there are so many, as we've seen so far in the series 572 00:36:38,440 --> 00:36:39,840 that desperately need attention. 573 00:36:40,480 --> 00:36:42,880 And while we are here, there is a perfect example of a house 574 00:36:42,960 --> 00:36:46,600 that was well restored behind me using traditionally made tiles. 575 00:36:46,680 --> 00:36:51,000 Next to it is another building probably same sort of date, 576 00:36:51,800 --> 00:36:54,000 but they've put modern industrial tiles on the roof. 577 00:36:54,680 --> 00:36:59,520 So which do you think looks more fitting in a setting like this? 578 00:36:59,600 --> 00:37:01,240 No prizes for guessing. 579 00:37:07,960 --> 00:37:10,600 Fresh mountain air is renowned for giving one an appetite 580 00:37:10,680 --> 00:37:14,520 so it was fortunate that a short drive away in the village of Ilimbav, 581 00:37:14,600 --> 00:37:16,160 there was a banquet being prepared. 582 00:37:17,480 --> 00:37:20,800 As a way of bringing tourists together with local producers 583 00:37:20,880 --> 00:37:23,440 a foundation called My Transylvania 584 00:37:23,520 --> 00:37:27,000 organises regular gastronomic brunches in villages across the region. 585 00:37:27,880 --> 00:37:30,000 I was lucky enough to be invited to join them. 586 00:37:31,160 --> 00:37:32,680 But I also wanted to come here 587 00:37:32,760 --> 00:37:36,600 to grab some culinary tips from top Sibiu chef Ion Bebeselea 588 00:37:36,680 --> 00:37:39,200 who was lending his expertise to the occasion 589 00:37:39,280 --> 00:37:41,840 by preparing something of his own devising. 590 00:37:43,240 --> 00:37:45,800 Hi Charlie, welcome to this great British summer. 591 00:37:45,880 --> 00:37:47,640 Yes I'm used to this. 592 00:37:54,360 --> 00:37:58,000 So here we have really traditional recipes, 593 00:37:58,800 --> 00:37:59,560 both are pork recipes, 594 00:37:59,640 --> 00:38:04,000 that's a stew done just after the pork was sacrificed, 595 00:38:04,800 --> 00:38:06,000 it's in the honour of the pork. 596 00:38:06,800 --> 00:38:09,000 So it's the first thing you prepare after you've slaughtered your pig? 597 00:38:09,800 --> 00:38:13,640 Yes. And here is a gulas with some Hungarian influences. 598 00:38:13,720 --> 00:38:16,200 -But with pork, not beef. -With pork, it's not beef. 599 00:38:16,280 --> 00:38:19,600 So this would have been prepared by the Saxons for hundreds of years. 600 00:38:19,680 --> 00:38:22,240 Saxons and Romanians, the inhabitants from this region. 601 00:38:22,920 --> 00:38:25,560 So your kitchen, as it were, is over there? 602 00:38:25,640 --> 00:38:26,800 -Yes. -OK. 603 00:38:26,880 --> 00:38:28,160 And what are you going to be cooking? 604 00:38:28,240 --> 00:38:31,520 I'm cooking a traditional modern recipe, 605 00:38:31,600 --> 00:38:36,720 I took parts from a lot of recipes and made one. 606 00:38:36,800 --> 00:38:38,200 We are using the neck of pork 607 00:38:38,280 --> 00:38:40,400 because it's very tasty with a lot of fat 608 00:38:40,480 --> 00:38:43,120 and we make it with an apple sauce. 609 00:38:46,400 --> 00:38:49,000 So here we have the lovely piece of meat. 610 00:38:49,800 --> 00:38:51,520 That looks gorgeous. How long have you slow cooked it? 611 00:38:51,600 --> 00:38:54,200 Around two and a half hours just to make a nice roast. 612 00:38:54,280 --> 00:38:55,320 -To seal it. -Yes. 613 00:38:55,400 --> 00:38:57,400 First we are going to put the oil, 614 00:38:58,480 --> 00:39:00,800 we will cut the onion, and the garlic. 615 00:39:01,480 --> 00:39:03,400 -You crush the garlic. -Yes. 616 00:39:03,480 --> 00:39:04,280 Brings up the flavour. 617 00:39:04,360 --> 00:39:06,920 Yes, the flavour and then we cut it very small. 618 00:39:07,000 --> 00:39:10,320 Some salt, a little bit of pepper... 619 00:39:10,400 --> 00:39:12,480 OK. That's quite a lot of pepper. 620 00:39:13,160 --> 00:39:16,120 Yes, the cream will take the heat 621 00:39:16,200 --> 00:39:19,120 and also because is nice to feel a little bit spicy. 622 00:39:19,200 --> 00:39:20,320 Yeah. 623 00:39:20,400 --> 00:39:23,320 So now we put the thyme going very well with the apples. 624 00:39:24,000 --> 00:39:28,520 So most of these ingredients are things that people can find in their garden. 625 00:39:28,600 --> 00:39:32,920 This is the idea we are trying to use more our products. 626 00:39:33,000 --> 00:39:33,920 It's a great shame 627 00:39:34,000 --> 00:39:37,720 that Romania has so many amazing vegetables and fruit and herbs 628 00:39:38,400 --> 00:39:41,800 and yet you find in supermarkets constantly foreign produce. 629 00:39:41,880 --> 00:39:44,320 Yes, this is the supermarkets policy, 630 00:39:44,400 --> 00:39:48,520 they need to know that they will have the apples all year round. 631 00:39:48,600 --> 00:39:52,160 I think also people have to start to go in the farmer's markets 632 00:39:52,240 --> 00:39:55,120 to buy their vegetables, and fruits 633 00:39:55,200 --> 00:39:58,520 and to start being used to apples with different shapes, 634 00:39:58,600 --> 00:40:00,480 they are not perfect, but... 635 00:40:00,560 --> 00:40:01,400 They are organic. 636 00:40:01,480 --> 00:40:03,520 -And they taste better actually. -Yes. 637 00:40:03,600 --> 00:40:07,240 When I was a kid I was growing at my grandparents in the village 638 00:40:07,320 --> 00:40:11,760 I was sourcing my own food going to take the potatoes out of the ground 639 00:40:11,840 --> 00:40:15,000 and then make some French fries or a stew or something like this. 640 00:40:15,800 --> 00:40:18,160 This could be a good idea getting groups of people together 641 00:40:18,240 --> 00:40:20,120 so that they can supply the supermarkets 642 00:40:20,200 --> 00:40:22,000 and that way you can actually have 643 00:40:22,800 --> 00:40:25,000 organic Romanian vegetables and fruit on the shelves. 644 00:40:25,800 --> 00:40:26,720 It would be really great. 645 00:40:26,800 --> 00:40:30,400 We are starting to put together some small producers 646 00:40:30,480 --> 00:40:34,800 to be able to source the restaurants with some really great ingredients. 647 00:40:34,880 --> 00:40:35,920 That's a fantastic idea. 648 00:40:40,880 --> 00:40:43,880 Now the onions are starting to caramelize, 649 00:40:43,960 --> 00:40:46,720 we have to add some wine, just a little bit, 650 00:40:46,800 --> 00:40:48,920 and apple juice in the pan. 651 00:40:49,440 --> 00:40:50,720 We are going to put the cream. 652 00:40:51,400 --> 00:40:55,280 We put the cherry plum to give a little bit of sourness. 653 00:40:55,360 --> 00:40:57,400 You can taste the sauce now see how it is... 654 00:41:00,360 --> 00:41:03,400 -Very sweet. -Yes. 655 00:41:03,120 --> 00:41:07,800 And we are going to put a teaspoon of this paste 656 00:41:07,160 --> 00:41:09,240 and the magic will happen soon. 657 00:41:09,320 --> 00:41:11,280 -It's alchemy. -Yes. 658 00:41:12,440 --> 00:41:15,720 Let's try that again now and see how it's changed. 659 00:41:18,720 --> 00:41:21,920 Completely different. Real tang to it with the cherry plum. 660 00:41:22,000 --> 00:41:24,440 And now we have to chop the apples. 661 00:41:24,520 --> 00:41:27,400 -Finally we've got some sun. -Yes. 662 00:41:28,120 --> 00:41:29,680 Now we are back in Romania. 663 00:41:30,240 --> 00:41:33,880 We will leave them few minutes just to become a little bit soft. 664 00:41:33,960 --> 00:41:36,320 Looking very nice. 665 00:41:36,400 --> 00:41:38,840 Now the meet has to be done. 666 00:41:39,480 --> 00:41:41,320 Beautiful it looks cooked to perfection. 667 00:41:41,400 --> 00:41:43,320 OK, so now we are going to serve it. 668 00:41:43,400 --> 00:41:46,360 Now we are going to put the sauce over the meat. 669 00:41:47,400 --> 00:41:48,680 -Really nice looking sauce. -Beautiful. 670 00:41:49,760 --> 00:41:52,800 I think two pieces of apples are enough. 671 00:41:52,160 --> 00:41:55,520 Let's dive in and let's see. We are cutting easy the meat. 672 00:41:58,520 --> 00:41:59,480 Sensational. 673 00:41:59,560 --> 00:42:02,320 -Congratulations! -Thank you! 674 00:42:02,400 --> 00:42:03,920 It's actually quite a complex flavour. 675 00:42:04,000 --> 00:42:06,280 You got a lot of different things going on with that. 676 00:42:06,360 --> 00:42:08,120 You have all the flavours that you need, 677 00:42:08,200 --> 00:42:11,120 you have a little bit of spicy, you have sour, you have sweet. 678 00:42:11,200 --> 00:42:14,440 So it's another recipe you can do yourself which is what we are all about. 679 00:42:14,520 --> 00:42:17,240 -So many thanks. -You're welcome. 680 00:42:17,960 --> 00:42:18,760 I'll have some more. 681 00:42:19,440 --> 00:42:21,920 I don't know if that is my stomach or the thunder. 682 00:42:22,000 --> 00:42:23,520 I think we are going to get wet again. 683 00:42:29,480 --> 00:42:32,680 With storms lashing the horizon we must take a rain check 684 00:42:32,760 --> 00:42:36,120 on the rest of our journey around this fairy tale region, 685 00:42:36,200 --> 00:42:38,880 which being so big and exhaustively beautiful 686 00:42:38,960 --> 00:42:41,920 has defied all our efforts to fit into one episode. 687 00:42:42,600 --> 00:42:44,480 So join us again next week 688 00:42:44,560 --> 00:42:47,720 when we will be completing our grand tour of Transylvania 689 00:42:47,800 --> 00:42:50,600 and following more roads less travelled.