1 00:00:03,320 --> 00:00:06,440 Romania is a land of a thousand faces. 2 00:00:13,920 --> 00:00:17,320 The crossing point between the Occident and the Orient, 3 00:00:17,400 --> 00:00:19,960 and a melting pot of different cultures. 4 00:00:21,960 --> 00:00:25,760 It is also a country unlike any other in Europe. 5 00:00:26,560 --> 00:00:30,720 With over 60 percent of the Carpathian Mountains weaving through it, 6 00:00:30,800 --> 00:00:36,120 Romania is the custodian of Europe's last great wilderness area, 7 00:00:36,200 --> 00:00:38,200 its largest remaining forest, 8 00:00:39,200 --> 00:00:42,200 and two thirds of its surviving alpha predators. 9 00:00:45,640 --> 00:00:50,360 But increasingly this unique country's natural and cultural heritage 10 00:00:50,440 --> 00:00:53,280 is under threat from reckless development 11 00:00:54,400 --> 00:00:55,560 and a race to modernise, 12 00:00:55,640 --> 00:00:59,920 which is often destroying the very things that could ensure prosperity 13 00:01:00,000 --> 00:01:03,560 and a sustainable livelihood for generations to come. 14 00:01:28,000 --> 00:01:32,880 This week we are exploring Muntenia, also known as Greater Wallachia... 15 00:01:36,000 --> 00:01:39,920 a region once presided over by Vlad the Impaler, 16 00:01:40,000 --> 00:01:42,120 whose famous cruelty as a ruler 17 00:01:42,200 --> 00:01:46,720 spawned the legends that inspired Bram Stoker's iconic novel, Dracula. 18 00:01:48,400 --> 00:01:50,400 To separate fact from fiction, 19 00:01:50,120 --> 00:01:53,920 my first stop is Poenari, Vlad Tepes' ruined fortress. 20 00:01:55,800 --> 00:02:00,280 I'm here to meet a man for whom Dracula tourism is not just a vocation, 21 00:02:00,360 --> 00:02:01,600 it's in his blood. 22 00:02:16,200 --> 00:02:17,840 -Dacre. -Charlie, how are you? Nice to see you. 23 00:02:17,920 --> 00:02:18,920 Very well. 24 00:02:19,000 --> 00:02:21,920 First of all, what relationship are you to Bram Stocker? 25 00:02:22,000 --> 00:02:23,720 Bram was my great grand uncle. 26 00:02:23,800 --> 00:02:27,560 That means that his youngest brother is my great grandfather. 27 00:02:27,640 --> 00:02:28,880 -It's quite a legacy. -It is. 28 00:02:28,960 --> 00:02:31,440 And it's a ripping yarn, I mean is a fantastic story, 29 00:02:31,520 --> 00:02:33,760 but he never actually came to Transylvania. 30 00:02:33,840 --> 00:02:36,560 No, he was a guy that did a lot of research, 31 00:02:36,640 --> 00:02:38,120 back in London and in Ireland, 32 00:02:38,200 --> 00:02:39,200 he did a lot of books, 33 00:02:39,280 --> 00:02:42,680 Badeker guide and five or six other books that put him here. 34 00:02:42,760 --> 00:02:44,760 -And a huge amount of imagination. -Absolutely. 35 00:02:44,840 --> 00:02:47,920 I mean half of it really is reality, the other half is Bram's fantasy. 36 00:02:48,000 --> 00:02:50,400 So this book, in terms of phenomena, 37 00:02:50,120 --> 00:02:52,000 has quite literally spawned a monster, hasn't it? 38 00:02:52,800 --> 00:02:55,640 Absolutely. I mean the legacy of Dracula has done a lot of things, 39 00:02:55,720 --> 00:02:58,400 it is not just Bella Lugosi, Christopher Lee and others. 40 00:02:58,480 --> 00:03:01,840 But it has unfortunately causes quite a lot of controversy 41 00:03:01,920 --> 00:03:03,480 amongst the Romanian people, 42 00:03:03,560 --> 00:03:05,960 because they are very proud of their heritage and their history, 43 00:03:06,400 --> 00:03:07,520 and it's a very rich history. 44 00:03:07,600 --> 00:03:09,880 And yet most people in America, for example, 45 00:03:09,960 --> 00:03:14,800 associate Transylvania with bloodsucking fiends and werewolves. 46 00:03:14,160 --> 00:03:17,400 And it fact I would imagine that most people think that Transylvania 47 00:03:17,120 --> 00:03:20,200 is a country rather than part of Romania. 48 00:03:20,280 --> 00:03:22,840 I feel a little responsible for some of the misconceptions, 49 00:03:22,920 --> 00:03:25,680 that Bram took their national hero, Vlad Dracula, 50 00:03:25,760 --> 00:03:27,600 and turned him into a Hollywood vampire. 51 00:03:27,680 --> 00:03:31,440 And as a legacy of the family, I'm trying to separate these two. 52 00:03:31,520 --> 00:03:32,680 Well, let's go and have a look at the fortress, 53 00:03:32,760 --> 00:03:34,480 and hopefully you can tell me a little bit more. 54 00:03:34,560 --> 00:03:35,360 OK, let's go. 55 00:03:36,600 --> 00:03:38,520 I think this is kind of a neat you have a bit of challenge 56 00:03:38,600 --> 00:03:40,800 to get up here when you consider the history of the Boyers, 57 00:03:40,880 --> 00:03:43,680 that had to make this thing, without 480 steps. 58 00:03:43,760 --> 00:03:45,360 You wouldn't sign up for this, would you? 59 00:03:45,440 --> 00:03:48,280 No. Not unless there was a whip at your back or the chance of impalement. 60 00:03:49,200 --> 00:03:51,840 The history here is very brutal, isn't it? 61 00:03:51,920 --> 00:03:54,720 I mean his wife jumped from these battlements to her death. 62 00:03:54,800 --> 00:03:56,000 It's an actual story that Jim Hart, 63 00:03:56,800 --> 00:04:00,400 the screen-writer for the '92 Copolla movie, Bram Stoker's Dracula, 64 00:04:00,120 --> 00:04:04,400 used, he actually took that real story and merged it with his mythology, 65 00:04:04,480 --> 00:04:07,400 to create how Vlad became a vampire. 66 00:04:07,120 --> 00:04:10,200 What happened was as she jumps out and of course is dead, 67 00:04:10,280 --> 00:04:13,440 he comes back after a good day fighting and finds his poor wife dead, 68 00:04:13,520 --> 00:04:14,320 and he brings her back, 69 00:04:14,400 --> 00:04:15,920 and of course because she committed suicide, 70 00:04:16,000 --> 00:04:17,840 the church wouldn't give her a consecrated burial. 71 00:04:17,920 --> 00:04:20,440 And that's when Tepes fall out with the church historically. 72 00:04:20,520 --> 00:04:21,320 Yes. 73 00:04:21,400 --> 00:04:24,680 And of course many forget that he was a tremendous hero for the people. 74 00:04:24,760 --> 00:04:29,400 And that's another part of proper responsible vampire tourism, 75 00:04:29,120 --> 00:04:31,240 is that Dracula that we know as the vampire 76 00:04:31,320 --> 00:04:32,600 really was a national hero. 77 00:04:32,680 --> 00:04:34,120 Vlad Dracula had three reigns, 78 00:04:34,200 --> 00:04:37,320 and during that time he held back the Ottoman empire, 79 00:04:37,400 --> 00:04:40,200 he made deals with the Austro-Hungarian empire, 80 00:04:40,280 --> 00:04:43,400 he was a hero, brutal reign in brutal times. 81 00:04:43,120 --> 00:04:44,600 But he was one of their national heroes. 82 00:04:44,680 --> 00:04:49,360 So what constitutes sensitive vampire tourism exactly? 83 00:04:49,440 --> 00:04:53,400 The impact I can make is separate the two, 84 00:04:53,120 --> 00:04:56,160 Vlad Dracula, the historical national hero, 85 00:04:56,240 --> 00:04:59,240 and the Count Dracula Bram Stoker started, 86 00:04:59,320 --> 00:05:01,360 and then everyone else has taken to the 'nth degree, 87 00:05:01,440 --> 00:05:02,800 is separate these two, 88 00:05:02,880 --> 00:05:04,560 show the differences and celebrate the two, 89 00:05:04,640 --> 00:05:07,400 because really if you are smart about it, you can get double the tourism. 90 00:05:07,480 --> 00:05:12,240 I guess we can say that even if people come here for maybe the wrong reasons, 91 00:05:12,320 --> 00:05:13,640 or because they are motivated 92 00:05:13,720 --> 00:05:16,440 by wanting to see what they think is going to be a film set, 93 00:05:16,520 --> 00:05:18,560 it's good that they are here in the first place, 94 00:05:18,640 --> 00:05:21,800 and it's a wonderful education for them to discover a country 95 00:05:21,880 --> 00:05:25,000 which is so unlike any expectations they would have had. 96 00:05:25,800 --> 00:05:28,880 Well it is and some of these places, these towns like Viscri and Crit, 97 00:05:28,960 --> 00:05:30,640 Malancrav, with the fortified churches, 98 00:05:31,320 --> 00:05:33,760 it's the way that life was back in the 15th century, 99 00:05:33,840 --> 00:05:36,520 it's amazing stepping into what looks like a movie set, 100 00:05:36,600 --> 00:05:38,440 but it is real life. 101 00:05:38,520 --> 00:05:39,840 Do you think it can survive? 102 00:05:39,920 --> 00:05:42,560 I think there is effort needed to keep it surviving, Charlie. 103 00:05:42,640 --> 00:05:46,400 I think that the Mihai Eminescu Trust and those folks do a great job, 104 00:05:46,120 --> 00:05:49,720 but I think it needs to be really encompassed by the government, 105 00:05:49,800 --> 00:05:52,480 and say this is worth keeping, let's not ignore it, 106 00:05:52,560 --> 00:05:55,000 because I think us, as tourists, like to come here and see it, 107 00:05:55,800 --> 00:05:57,280 and are not many places left like this on earth. 108 00:05:57,360 --> 00:06:02,400 But doing it right, educating people how to actually sustain this tourism, 109 00:06:02,480 --> 00:06:06,800 I mean everything that involves people coming in and doing it slowly, 110 00:06:06,880 --> 00:06:09,000 learning how to do it right, I think is just key. 111 00:06:09,680 --> 00:06:14,440 While Muntenia is historically one of the most important regions in Romania, 112 00:06:14,520 --> 00:06:17,000 it is also perhaps the most cosmopolitan, 113 00:06:17,800 --> 00:06:21,360 with its centre of administration located in the country's capital, Bucharest. 114 00:06:22,480 --> 00:06:25,800 Home to The People's Palace, one of Europe's largest buildings, 115 00:06:25,880 --> 00:06:30,560 Bucharest is a big sprawling metropolis, peppered with lakes and parkland. 116 00:06:31,280 --> 00:06:33,320 It was redesigned under Ceausescu 117 00:06:33,400 --> 00:06:35,800 to symbolise the might of the Communist regime. 118 00:06:36,480 --> 00:06:40,200 Today many improbably large neo-classical edifices 119 00:06:40,280 --> 00:06:45,640 compete with crumbling Hapsburg architecture, '70s apartment blocks, 120 00:06:45,720 --> 00:06:47,320 and contemporary steel and glass. 121 00:06:48,280 --> 00:06:52,120 One of the victims of this industrial redesign is the river Dambovita, 122 00:06:52,640 --> 00:06:55,960 which cuts straight through the heart of the city like a concrete causeway, 123 00:06:56,680 --> 00:07:00,120 lined on either side by roads and one way traffic systems. 124 00:07:00,880 --> 00:07:05,800 But plans are afoot to declog this vital urban artery, 125 00:07:05,880 --> 00:07:09,800 and much in the same way as the Thames, in London or the Seine in Paris, 126 00:07:09,880 --> 00:07:12,320 reclaim the riverbanks for the pedestrians. 127 00:07:13,120 --> 00:07:16,120 I caught up with friend and conservationist Theodor Frolu, 128 00:07:16,200 --> 00:07:17,600 who is spearheading the movement. 129 00:07:18,280 --> 00:07:21,520 Looking at this it's most encouraging to see 130 00:07:21,600 --> 00:07:25,760 that some of the river banks is actually turning into a more social environment, 131 00:07:25,840 --> 00:07:28,360 but it's only one place isn't it? 132 00:07:28,440 --> 00:07:29,240 Yes, 133 00:07:29,320 --> 00:07:33,800 but always we have to start somewhere, and this was the idea when, 134 00:07:33,880 --> 00:07:38,000 four years ago we started changing the edge of the river. 135 00:07:38,800 --> 00:07:42,280 So it was very important for us to bring people next to the river, 136 00:07:42,360 --> 00:07:45,360 and create this new relation with the river, 137 00:07:45,440 --> 00:07:50,120 and to see people sitting around and looking at the water. 138 00:07:50,200 --> 00:07:54,480 This is a very important value for the city which Bucharest forgot about. 139 00:07:54,560 --> 00:07:56,800 Yes because it is quite tough. 140 00:07:56,160 --> 00:07:58,400 You've got roads all the way along the sides of the river, haven't you? 141 00:07:58,480 --> 00:08:01,200 Yes, and this is one of the biggest problems. 142 00:08:01,280 --> 00:08:03,920 This is a good area because it's the only one 143 00:08:04,000 --> 00:08:07,720 where you have such a big distance from the traffic to the water. 144 00:08:07,800 --> 00:08:10,840 Yes, I suppose by at least achieving that here, 145 00:08:10,920 --> 00:08:13,600 you can show people how it could look further up the river. 146 00:08:13,680 --> 00:08:15,520 Yes, this was the idea, 147 00:08:15,600 --> 00:08:20,000 and this is why we created this platform of NGO's and different partners, 148 00:08:20,800 --> 00:08:24,240 to try to animate and bring life to the water. 149 00:08:24,320 --> 00:08:25,760 But how clean is the water? 150 00:08:25,840 --> 00:08:29,200 Right now is really clean because in the last three or four years 151 00:08:29,880 --> 00:08:31,800 there was money invested in the sewage system, 152 00:08:32,480 --> 00:08:34,480 so right now what we see here is... 153 00:08:34,560 --> 00:08:36,800 So the two don't intermingle. 154 00:08:36,880 --> 00:08:42,400 Yes and this is the reason why we started these type of activities on the water, 155 00:08:42,120 --> 00:08:45,520 because it is the best way to put people in contact. 156 00:08:45,600 --> 00:08:47,200 How much support 157 00:08:47,280 --> 00:08:49,280 have you got from the government and the people in Bucharest? 158 00:08:49,360 --> 00:08:54,440 We have support but with ups and downs, as usual. 159 00:08:54,520 --> 00:08:58,320 Our role is to create bridges with the public administration, 160 00:08:58,400 --> 00:09:03,560 and try to show that what we are dreaming is not only our dream, 161 00:09:03,640 --> 00:09:05,600 it's the people's dream around the river. 162 00:09:05,680 --> 00:09:09,440 It would transform the heart of Bucharest if you are able to do this, 163 00:09:09,520 --> 00:09:13,560 I mean you create a space for people to come and have a coffee and chat. 164 00:09:13,640 --> 00:09:15,720 I know Bucharest has some beautiful parks, 165 00:09:15,800 --> 00:09:18,400 but this is such a waisted opportunity. 166 00:09:18,120 --> 00:09:21,960 Yes, but the problem is that there are too many entities involved. 167 00:09:22,400 --> 00:09:25,840 For example, just to do what we've done here with these pontoons 168 00:09:25,920 --> 00:09:29,000 and this different way of relating with the river, 169 00:09:29,800 --> 00:09:33,000 we had to negotiate with six different institutions. 170 00:09:33,800 --> 00:09:39,120 But the important moment happened because we succeeded in doing this, 171 00:09:39,200 --> 00:09:40,200 and the people like it, 172 00:09:40,280 --> 00:09:44,200 the young people are starting to show their love for these places, 173 00:09:44,280 --> 00:09:46,120 the emotion is here for the city. 174 00:09:46,200 --> 00:09:47,360 So what...? 175 00:09:48,200 --> 00:09:51,800 I think I know what you are going to ask me. 176 00:09:51,160 --> 00:09:54,120 Well I'm not really dressed for it but I suppose I can give it a try. 177 00:09:54,200 --> 00:09:59,480 You have to try this feeling to be on the water in the middle of Bucharest. 178 00:09:59,560 --> 00:10:02,640 Is this really the only place where you can paddleboard on the river, 179 00:10:02,720 --> 00:10:04,400 in Bucharest? 180 00:10:04,120 --> 00:10:05,880 Yes, in this moment it is the only place, 181 00:10:05,960 --> 00:10:10,720 but we hope we will continue to virus the river. 182 00:10:10,800 --> 00:10:12,120 Spread it up and down, 183 00:10:12,200 --> 00:10:16,120 until the whole river becomes a national park, that would be wonderful. 184 00:10:21,000 --> 00:10:22,280 I swam the Amazon, 185 00:10:22,360 --> 00:10:26,160 I swam the Thames and I think I'm about to swim the Dambovita. 186 00:10:26,240 --> 00:10:29,800 -Come on, Charlie. -No rush. 187 00:10:30,360 --> 00:10:32,880 The water is not cold, it's pretty hot, so don't you worry. 188 00:10:32,960 --> 00:10:35,920 -I'm not worried. -Let us help you a little bit. 189 00:10:37,560 --> 00:10:40,560 -OK, Charlie. -I'm on. 190 00:10:41,240 --> 00:10:43,560 -Don't forget to take your paddle. -Yes, the paddle helps. 191 00:10:44,800 --> 00:10:47,440 -OK, let's go. -I can't believe I'm doing this. 192 00:10:47,520 --> 00:10:48,560 Reverse the paddle. 193 00:10:50,200 --> 00:10:52,800 -Reverse the paddle? -Yes, like this. 194 00:10:53,680 --> 00:10:58,720 Let's just balance first and work out what to do with the paddle in a minute. 195 00:11:00,000 --> 00:11:02,200 -Relax, relax a little bit. -Yes. 196 00:11:17,800 --> 00:11:20,400 You should be able just to do that and not... 197 00:11:24,520 --> 00:11:28,600 Try to avoid doing that. It's cold. 198 00:11:32,800 --> 00:11:36,120 Well, I've done it and it's not so bad, that's the worst that can happen. 199 00:11:36,200 --> 00:11:40,600 And that was really nice, refreshing, the water is clean, is not too bad, 200 00:11:40,680 --> 00:11:44,000 so I'll recommend this to anyone, come and do it, it's fun. 201 00:11:44,880 --> 00:11:46,320 A fully immersive experience. 202 00:11:48,200 --> 00:11:50,760 A quick change of clothing later and we head north, 203 00:11:50,840 --> 00:11:54,000 towards the Southern Carpathians that give Muntenia its name. 204 00:11:54,680 --> 00:11:57,800 On the edge of the mountains is a small town called Berca, 205 00:11:57,880 --> 00:12:02,680 which is famous for a bizarre geological occurrence, peculiar to this region. 206 00:12:06,560 --> 00:12:09,400 MUD VULCANOES 207 00:12:10,240 --> 00:12:11,240 At first glance, 208 00:12:11,320 --> 00:12:14,840 this is a landscape that more closely resembles the surface of the moon. 209 00:12:20,400 --> 00:12:23,400 Mud volcanoes, so called for obvious reasons, 210 00:12:23,120 --> 00:12:26,440 occur as gas erupts from 3,000 metres underground, 211 00:12:26,520 --> 00:12:30,680 rising through layers of clay and water and pushing salty mud upwards, 212 00:12:30,760 --> 00:12:34,240 until it bubbles to the surface forming a volcano-shaped cone. 213 00:12:35,280 --> 00:12:40,400 Resident and guide Thorsten Kirscher took me on a bracing hike to one of them. 214 00:12:40,120 --> 00:12:41,120 That looks like soup. 215 00:12:41,200 --> 00:12:45,800 It's like ciorba but also it's not recommended to eat it, 216 00:12:45,160 --> 00:12:49,840 it's not recommended to swim it or to use it as a beauty treatment. No. 217 00:12:49,920 --> 00:12:51,880 'Cause it's probably quite acidic, isn't it? 218 00:12:51,960 --> 00:12:53,480 And the gas that is bubbling up, 219 00:12:53,560 --> 00:12:56,280 I mean if I was to get a lighter and put it there, 220 00:12:56,360 --> 00:12:58,920 it wouldn't just go bang like a giant zit? 221 00:12:59,000 --> 00:13:00,400 To be honest, I don't know, 222 00:13:00,120 --> 00:13:04,400 but there is a big sign at the entrance not to smoke here. 223 00:13:04,120 --> 00:13:06,200 I imagine people come here and film. 224 00:13:06,280 --> 00:13:10,240 Yes, they do videoclips here, even for weddings it is used, 225 00:13:10,320 --> 00:13:11,840 so people come here with the bride. 226 00:13:11,920 --> 00:13:13,600 To get married. 227 00:13:13,680 --> 00:13:16,960 Not to get married, but to make photos together with the mud, 228 00:13:17,400 --> 00:13:18,480 obviously it's a nice contrast. 229 00:13:22,800 --> 00:13:26,600 While the mud volcanoes are well promoted and lots of people come here, 230 00:13:26,680 --> 00:13:29,680 there is another place nearby, far less well known, 231 00:13:29,760 --> 00:13:33,200 where crude oil, rather than mud, bubbles to the surface. 232 00:13:41,000 --> 00:13:43,960 These are the hidden mud volcanoes of Berca. 233 00:13:46,880 --> 00:13:49,400 There are even people from the village who don't know this place. 234 00:13:49,480 --> 00:13:51,760 When I bring them here, they are amazed and they say: 235 00:13:51,840 --> 00:13:53,200 "Wow, I didn't know that". 236 00:13:53,280 --> 00:13:55,440 Is another one of Romania's best kept secret. 237 00:13:55,520 --> 00:13:56,320 Yes, really. 238 00:13:56,400 --> 00:14:00,520 This area of Buzau will be part of the UNESCO Geo Park, 239 00:14:00,600 --> 00:14:02,120 which is called Land of Buzau. 240 00:14:03,640 --> 00:14:05,120 I can hear the bubbling. 241 00:14:05,200 --> 00:14:09,960 Yes, and this is a unique spot in Romania and I would say even in Europe. 242 00:14:10,640 --> 00:14:15,840 It's not only water and mud coming out here, it's crude oil which is bubbling. 243 00:14:15,920 --> 00:14:20,240 What kind of idiot thinks that it's cool to chuck beer cans 244 00:14:20,320 --> 00:14:22,560 and plastic bottles in something as amazing as this? 245 00:14:22,640 --> 00:14:25,520 It's the sad part of the story we find everywhere in this region. 246 00:14:25,600 --> 00:14:27,320 But it's that mentality I don't get. 247 00:14:27,400 --> 00:14:30,480 You know and you see it all over Romania, you see something that is very beautiful, 248 00:14:30,560 --> 00:14:31,880 so, hey, let's trash it. 249 00:14:32,400 --> 00:14:34,520 That's why we need really to protect this area. 250 00:14:35,440 --> 00:14:37,200 Well, hopefully when they're chucking a beer can in, 251 00:14:37,280 --> 00:14:40,680 they're also lighting a cigarette, Darwin's law of natural selection. 252 00:14:40,760 --> 00:14:42,000 Yes. 253 00:14:45,720 --> 00:14:49,320 As well as working to promote the area, Thorsten and his wife, Juranda, 254 00:14:49,400 --> 00:14:52,680 have a home cookery school located at their palatial villa, 255 00:14:52,760 --> 00:14:53,960 on the edge of town. 256 00:14:54,880 --> 00:14:57,560 I arrived to find an epicurean feast. 257 00:14:59,120 --> 00:15:00,360 -Juranda! -Welcome! 258 00:15:00,440 --> 00:15:03,480 You weren't joking when you said that you have something special! 259 00:15:03,560 --> 00:15:05,560 -No, not at all. -He's making jokes. 260 00:15:05,640 --> 00:15:07,800 -But not about food. -Not about food. 261 00:15:07,880 --> 00:15:10,160 Well you do do this for a living, don't you? 262 00:15:10,240 --> 00:15:11,280 Yes, of course, we are trying. 263 00:15:12,840 --> 00:15:15,240 What have we got? Talk me through this amazing spread. 264 00:15:15,320 --> 00:15:19,720 We've got all the dishes that we are making for our events, 265 00:15:19,800 --> 00:15:24,920 we are trying as much as we can to deliver good food, local food, 266 00:15:25,000 --> 00:15:28,480 seasonal food, everything is home made. 267 00:15:28,560 --> 00:15:32,600 This is a local sausage called babic, it is very spicy, 268 00:15:32,680 --> 00:15:36,120 the pate has a little bit of alcohol in it, 269 00:15:36,200 --> 00:15:39,280 zacusca, but with added value, truffles, 270 00:15:39,360 --> 00:15:43,640 because in this area you can go truffle hunting so you know, why not. 271 00:15:43,720 --> 00:15:46,680 And asparagus, not so local, which is a shame, 272 00:15:46,760 --> 00:15:49,160 because I bet you can grow it very well here, couldn't you? 273 00:15:49,240 --> 00:15:50,400 Yes. I'm pretty sure you can. 274 00:15:50,480 --> 00:15:51,600 And if we can grow it in England, 275 00:15:51,680 --> 00:15:54,560 then I don't think there's any reason why it needs to be imported from abroad. 276 00:15:54,640 --> 00:15:55,640 For sure. 277 00:15:55,720 --> 00:15:58,000 Bread, simple like baskets, 278 00:15:58,800 --> 00:16:04,600 and the other one is with fried onion, with local cheese and herbs and olives. 279 00:16:04,680 --> 00:16:07,400 And this is a truffle machiatto, 280 00:16:07,120 --> 00:16:10,680 a soup based on champignons and truffles. 281 00:16:10,760 --> 00:16:13,760 -So you can serve it chilled? -You can serve it hot or cold. 282 00:16:13,840 --> 00:16:18,000 -Do you have a cook book? -Not yet, but we are going to. 283 00:16:18,800 --> 00:16:18,880 That's an oversight. 284 00:16:18,960 --> 00:16:23,800 We are going to because this is a pity for the others so we have to share it. 285 00:16:23,880 --> 00:16:26,240 I imagine you might get chefs coming here, as well. 286 00:16:26,320 --> 00:16:28,960 I mean it would be good to get some of the Romanian chefs, 287 00:16:29,400 --> 00:16:31,120 in various places, to come and learn things like this. 288 00:16:31,200 --> 00:16:32,880 I would like this very much really. 289 00:16:32,960 --> 00:16:34,560 I don't even know where to start, 290 00:16:34,640 --> 00:16:36,400 there are just so many delicious things on this table. 291 00:16:36,480 --> 00:16:38,200 So I will give you a little bit of bread. 292 00:16:38,280 --> 00:16:40,360 OK. I will have some of that zacusca as well. 293 00:16:40,440 --> 00:16:42,600 Zacusca with truffles is such a great idea. 294 00:16:43,480 --> 00:16:45,640 That is amazing, you saw it here first. 295 00:16:45,720 --> 00:16:47,560 But I think probably quite a few people are going to copy that. 296 00:16:47,640 --> 00:16:49,480 I don't have a problem. 297 00:16:49,560 --> 00:16:53,600 Great, 'cause I was going to ask you, can we have some of your recipes, please? 298 00:16:54,640 --> 00:16:56,800 I think people after seeing this 299 00:16:56,160 --> 00:16:59,160 are going to want to be able to cook some of these for themselves. 300 00:17:01,800 --> 00:17:04,680 Berca sits at the mouth of the Buzau River valley, 301 00:17:04,760 --> 00:17:06,720 which winds down from the surrounding hills. 302 00:17:07,760 --> 00:17:11,680 This area marking the boundary between the flat lands of the south, 303 00:17:11,760 --> 00:17:13,520 and the Carpathians to the north, 304 00:17:13,600 --> 00:17:16,400 has seen its fair share of historic battles. 305 00:17:16,960 --> 00:17:21,280 Here, the Roman invaders fought skirmishes with the native Dacian tribes, 306 00:17:21,360 --> 00:17:24,520 who were forced to retreat back into the safety of the mountains. 307 00:17:25,280 --> 00:17:29,200 But their footprint still exists to this day, if you know where to look. 308 00:17:29,960 --> 00:17:32,680 Luckily, I had an eminent historian to show me. 309 00:17:35,560 --> 00:17:39,800 This region is full of history like the entire Buzau county. 310 00:17:39,160 --> 00:17:42,880 We have bronze age settlements, we have iron age, 311 00:17:42,960 --> 00:17:45,280 and also we have a lot of stone age settlements. 312 00:17:45,360 --> 00:17:47,120 Around 4,000 years ago, 313 00:17:47,200 --> 00:17:51,800 the bronze age people used that area like a graveyard, 314 00:17:51,160 --> 00:17:55,560 but is very interesting that they don't dig the graves in the earth, 315 00:17:55,640 --> 00:17:58,120 they dig graves in the stone. 316 00:17:58,200 --> 00:18:00,480 So they cut the graves out of the rock? 317 00:18:00,560 --> 00:18:04,440 And in the 70's, when they cut that part of the hill, 318 00:18:04,520 --> 00:18:09,400 they discovered the human bones and ceramics and a lot of bracelets 319 00:18:09,120 --> 00:18:10,640 and other artefacts. 320 00:18:10,720 --> 00:18:14,600 70 million years ago here was the bottom of the Sarmatian sea, 321 00:18:14,680 --> 00:18:17,960 and actually that is the secret, because in this part of Romania 322 00:18:18,400 --> 00:18:20,920 we have some of the greatest wine in the whole of Romania, 323 00:18:21,000 --> 00:18:23,920 because of the calcium from the shells. 324 00:18:24,000 --> 00:18:27,840 OK, so you got the calcium that goes into the vines. 325 00:18:27,920 --> 00:18:30,280 Which is why I've driven through so many vineyards on the way up. 326 00:18:30,360 --> 00:18:34,400 The Dacians were inhabiting this part of the mountains a lot? 327 00:18:34,720 --> 00:18:39,240 Yes, actually they loved that part of the mountains, of the first hills, 328 00:18:39,320 --> 00:18:43,520 because they can see days before, the armies when they come. 329 00:18:43,600 --> 00:18:46,560 It must have been terrifying, if you were the Dacians, 330 00:18:46,640 --> 00:18:50,480 looking at the Roman army advancing towards you across this plain. 331 00:18:50,560 --> 00:18:55,000 I mean you would have probably what, a day or two to run to the hills. 332 00:18:55,800 --> 00:18:58,320 If you make a big fire here to announce the enemy, 333 00:18:58,400 --> 00:19:00,240 they are going to see it from... 334 00:19:00,320 --> 00:19:02,640 ...pretty much near Brasov they're going to see it. 335 00:19:02,720 --> 00:19:04,000 Yes, something like that. 336 00:19:22,600 --> 00:19:24,600 Driving West into the foothills, 337 00:19:24,680 --> 00:19:30,400 you encounter remote villages and isolated towns, separated by valleys, 338 00:19:30,480 --> 00:19:34,680 alpine pastures and mixed forests that carpet the landscape, 339 00:19:34,760 --> 00:19:36,400 in a symphony of green. 340 00:19:38,360 --> 00:19:42,600 This is a largely untamed world, where the bear and the wolf, 341 00:19:42,680 --> 00:19:46,920 and even their more domesticated cousins still run wild. 342 00:19:50,200 --> 00:19:53,120 Our destination is a small town called Slanic, 343 00:19:53,200 --> 00:19:56,320 home to what is claimed to be the largest salt mine in Romania. 344 00:20:00,920 --> 00:20:02,200 There's not a lot to see... 345 00:20:03,920 --> 00:20:08,160 but that's because most of the action happens downstairs. 346 00:20:15,960 --> 00:20:20,120 Unlike the more publicised Turda mines, Slanic is still operational, 347 00:20:22,240 --> 00:20:25,120 however a large section of it is now open to the public, 348 00:20:25,200 --> 00:20:27,720 and a great place to spend a rainy day 349 00:20:27,800 --> 00:20:30,160 or indeed shelter from a nuclear holocaust. 350 00:20:40,240 --> 00:20:42,000 The mine is certainly impressive, 351 00:20:42,800 --> 00:20:44,760 however the attractions could do with a bit of an update. 352 00:20:49,520 --> 00:20:54,400 The saline air makes it an ideal location for health spa facilities, 353 00:20:54,120 --> 00:20:55,320 and treatment rooms. 354 00:20:55,400 --> 00:20:57,480 A location like this, if done well, 355 00:20:57,560 --> 00:21:01,160 could provide more employment and generate a big income for the local town, 356 00:21:02,520 --> 00:21:04,720 with less risk than the miners faced many years ago. 357 00:21:06,520 --> 00:21:09,920 This has to be the world's largest chainsaw. 358 00:21:10,000 --> 00:21:13,400 It gives you a pretty good idea of what life must have been like 359 00:21:13,120 --> 00:21:15,640 before the invention of health and safety. 360 00:21:23,800 --> 00:21:24,760 Back on the surface, 361 00:21:24,840 --> 00:21:29,600 it was time to leave the foothills behind and head deeper into the mountains. 362 00:21:29,680 --> 00:21:33,600 This is Busteni, a resort town in the Prahova valley. 363 00:21:33,680 --> 00:21:36,640 It's name literally translates as "tree-logs," 364 00:21:37,320 --> 00:21:41,640 but recently the timber trade has taken a back seat to the tourist industry, 365 00:21:41,720 --> 00:21:46,440 providing a popular destination for hikers in the summer and skiers in the winter. 366 00:21:47,880 --> 00:21:51,000 I am here to visit a particularly grand building, 367 00:21:51,800 --> 00:21:54,640 that has recently been restored to its original splendour. 368 00:22:13,920 --> 00:22:15,520 Cantacuzino Castle, 369 00:22:15,600 --> 00:22:20,440 built in a neo Romanian style by Prince George Grigore Cantacuzino in 1911 370 00:22:20,520 --> 00:22:24,160 was restituted to his descendants following the fall of communism, 371 00:22:24,240 --> 00:22:27,800 and sold to private investors in 2004. 372 00:22:27,920 --> 00:22:30,800 It is now open to the public as an events venue, museum, 373 00:22:30,880 --> 00:22:32,120 and first class restaurant. 374 00:22:32,960 --> 00:22:35,400 To learn more about the man who built it, 375 00:22:35,120 --> 00:22:38,440 I joined official guide David Laurentiu for the grand tour. 376 00:22:39,440 --> 00:22:40,680 I'm getting the impression 377 00:22:40,760 --> 00:22:44,840 that the prince Cantacuzino was extraordinarily rich. 378 00:22:44,920 --> 00:22:46,960 Yes, he was the richest Romanian from that time. 379 00:22:47,400 --> 00:22:48,160 His nickname was Nababu, 380 00:22:48,240 --> 00:22:51,480 the richest Arabian prince, by translation. 381 00:22:51,560 --> 00:22:55,720 If he was rich by Arabian prince standards, that's definitely wealthy. 382 00:22:55,800 --> 00:22:59,520 I suppose all these characters on the murals here were relatives of his. 383 00:22:59,600 --> 00:23:02,520 Yes, during the Communist time they were a little bit lucky, 384 00:23:02,600 --> 00:23:04,720 because all the things from the castle were stolen. 385 00:23:04,800 --> 00:23:06,600 Also these ones were supposed to be taken down, 386 00:23:06,680 --> 00:23:09,480 and maybe disappear without any trace. 387 00:23:09,560 --> 00:23:13,160 But the people who were brought to do this decided to hide them, 388 00:23:13,240 --> 00:23:18,000 so the workers covered all the paintings with a layer of paper, a layer of textile 389 00:23:18,800 --> 00:23:19,920 and after that they painted over them. 390 00:23:20,000 --> 00:23:22,680 So they hid them so it seemed like it was a painted wall. 391 00:23:22,760 --> 00:23:26,320 Yes. And just a few people knew what was behind the walls. 392 00:23:26,400 --> 00:23:28,360 They were uncovered in late 70's. 393 00:23:28,440 --> 00:23:32,600 You can see why the Communists would take exception to these characters. 394 00:23:33,400 --> 00:23:37,520 They're not particularly the sort of people 395 00:23:37,600 --> 00:23:39,840 who would perpetuate the myth of social equality. 396 00:23:39,920 --> 00:23:40,720 Yes. 397 00:23:45,360 --> 00:23:46,200 Nice windows. 398 00:23:46,280 --> 00:23:50,920 Yes, this was the office of prince Cantacuzino, here, 399 00:23:51,000 --> 00:23:52,440 and on the left side there was a stage, 400 00:23:53,120 --> 00:23:57,240 and on that stage was the prince's desk, he always looked at people from the top. 401 00:23:57,320 --> 00:24:01,720 -So he liked to look down a little bit. -Yes he was very proud about himself. 402 00:24:01,800 --> 00:24:04,400 He was also clearly very proud of his moustache. 403 00:24:04,120 --> 00:24:07,440 Yes, I'm pretty sure, I think it was... 404 00:24:07,520 --> 00:24:11,440 Look at the size of that thing, it is down here. 405 00:24:11,520 --> 00:24:14,520 That's like the handlebars on my motorbike. 406 00:24:15,320 --> 00:24:18,720 And these are family members who also kept up the tradition. 407 00:24:18,800 --> 00:24:21,160 Yes, this was the fashion in that time. 408 00:24:21,240 --> 00:24:22,440 It was the fashion in those days exactly. 409 00:24:22,520 --> 00:24:25,240 But take a look what nice ladies were in that time. 410 00:24:25,320 --> 00:24:28,640 It's not really what we today would describe as sexy, 411 00:24:28,720 --> 00:24:34,400 but it was still sort of the Victorian era of primness and propriety. 412 00:24:34,120 --> 00:24:38,400 Cantacuzino Castle has also become an acclaimed gastronomic stopover, 413 00:24:38,480 --> 00:24:41,120 for people travelling between Bucharest and Brasov, 414 00:24:41,800 --> 00:24:45,320 with a constantly changing menu of traditional and avant garde cuisine. 415 00:24:45,960 --> 00:24:49,920 Chef Marian Lamba took time out from the chaos to show me 416 00:24:50,000 --> 00:24:51,520 a couple of signature dishes. 417 00:24:51,600 --> 00:24:52,520 So what are we cooking? 418 00:24:52,600 --> 00:24:57,520 We'll cook some duck and a whole fish with fresh vegetables. 419 00:24:57,600 --> 00:24:59,560 Did you invent these recipes? 420 00:24:59,640 --> 00:25:02,880 No. I've just learned a bit from everyone. I took the best tips. 421 00:25:02,960 --> 00:25:07,120 Here we have a marinade with honey, white wine, salt, pepper. 422 00:25:07,200 --> 00:25:10,120 Now we pour the marinade over it, 423 00:25:10,200 --> 00:25:13,920 and lots of vegetables that will diffuse a great taste. 424 00:25:14,000 --> 00:25:15,320 This is already looking good. 425 00:25:15,400 --> 00:25:19,600 Olive oil. Some pepper. 426 00:25:20,440 --> 00:25:22,480 -Salt from the Himalayas? -Yes. 427 00:25:23,280 --> 00:25:28,680 Not salt from Slanic or Turda salt mine? We should be buying local! 428 00:25:29,800 --> 00:25:32,960 And now we prepare the fish. This is sea bass. 429 00:25:33,400 --> 00:25:36,680 We'll make notches so that spices can diffuse inside, 430 00:25:36,760 --> 00:25:38,480 and salt and pepper can season the fish flesh. 431 00:25:38,560 --> 00:25:42,440 We put some lemon slices inside, to get a special flavour. 432 00:25:43,520 --> 00:25:47,920 We add some rosemary, it's quite fresh. 433 00:25:49,400 --> 00:25:51,160 A bit of coriander and basil. 434 00:25:52,800 --> 00:25:54,320 Now salt and pepper. 435 00:25:55,000 --> 00:25:57,480 And do you slow cook this to let the flavour come out? 436 00:25:58,160 --> 00:26:02,360 Yes. Anything that you slow cook is delicious, full of flavours and tasty. 437 00:26:02,440 --> 00:26:04,240 There you go, it's that simple folks. 438 00:26:07,400 --> 00:26:09,120 I think the fish is ready. 439 00:26:09,800 --> 00:26:13,720 Yes. I've prepared a special side dish that goes with it, fresh vegetables, 440 00:26:13,800 --> 00:26:15,720 asparagus, cherry tomatoes, 441 00:26:15,800 --> 00:26:21,800 and some sauce with tomatoes, kalamata olives, extra virgin olive oil. 442 00:26:21,160 --> 00:26:23,960 We adorn with some basil. 443 00:26:25,160 --> 00:26:29,760 Whoever ordered that is in for a treat, alas it wasn't me, that's going outside, 444 00:26:29,840 --> 00:26:31,520 but I've got the duck to wait for, 445 00:26:31,600 --> 00:26:35,960 and I think I still have enough time to change for dinner. See you in a bit. 446 00:26:42,200 --> 00:26:43,560 So we've tried to recreate 447 00:26:43,640 --> 00:26:46,320 what it might have been like for the Prince of Cantacuzino 448 00:26:46,400 --> 00:26:50,800 eating in his opulent residence, with his relatives gazing down on him, 449 00:26:50,880 --> 00:26:53,320 as he tucks into some incredible dish, 450 00:26:53,400 --> 00:26:55,520 with a host of servants, waiting on his every need. 451 00:27:03,120 --> 00:27:04,600 -Enjoy it! -Thank you. 452 00:27:07,360 --> 00:27:10,840 This sauce is sensational, really good. 453 00:27:19,560 --> 00:27:23,400 I can't really imagine that this happened to the Prince very often, 454 00:27:23,480 --> 00:27:27,680 but it's nice that a place like this is open to everybody. 455 00:27:31,640 --> 00:27:35,680 Cantacuzino castle sits in the shadow of the Carpathian peaks, 456 00:27:35,760 --> 00:27:39,680 which dominate the skyline and afford breath-taking views. 457 00:27:39,760 --> 00:27:44,880 A short ride by cable car takes you to the top of Bucegi national park, 458 00:27:44,960 --> 00:27:48,480 and a series of rock formations that are steeped in folklore. 459 00:27:51,200 --> 00:27:54,320 The Sphynx attracts tourists from across the country, 460 00:27:54,400 --> 00:27:57,880 who flock here to marvel at its strikingly human features. 461 00:27:57,960 --> 00:28:00,680 But according to archaeologist Oana Ghiocel, 462 00:28:00,760 --> 00:28:03,880 we are by no means the first visitors to have made this connection. 463 00:28:04,560 --> 00:28:06,680 Still looks like a pile of rocks. 464 00:28:06,760 --> 00:28:10,800 True, but wait one more moment and... 465 00:28:10,880 --> 00:28:13,880 OK, it really depends on what angle you look at it, doesn't it? 466 00:28:13,960 --> 00:28:15,280 Exactly. 467 00:28:15,360 --> 00:28:21,240 And now you can see the lips and the eye, yes. Not much of a nose. 468 00:28:21,320 --> 00:28:24,440 Not much of a nose. There are two stories, 469 00:28:24,520 --> 00:28:28,960 one that the nose was blown off by the World War I army, 470 00:28:29,400 --> 00:28:32,720 and another one that it fell off in ancient times. 471 00:28:32,800 --> 00:28:36,680 But these are just stories, right? We don't have any evidence for this. 472 00:28:36,760 --> 00:28:39,200 Yes, more like legends of some sort. 473 00:28:39,280 --> 00:28:42,000 Where do you think people's fascination with these rocks comes from? 474 00:28:42,800 --> 00:28:44,800 I think there's a variety of reasons, 475 00:28:44,880 --> 00:28:48,960 but one is that it really looks like a human face. 476 00:28:49,400 --> 00:28:53,360 It's very surprising for people to find this at this elevation, 477 00:28:53,440 --> 00:28:55,760 we are at about 2,200 meters, 478 00:28:55,840 --> 00:29:00,560 and all of a sudden you see this and it's also a gigantic size, 479 00:29:00,640 --> 00:29:02,000 is about sixty meters high. 480 00:29:02,800 --> 00:29:04,360 It's interesting that people are so intrigued by it, 481 00:29:04,440 --> 00:29:06,400 I mean what's the special significance for you? 482 00:29:06,480 --> 00:29:12,880 I remember I was seven years old and I came here and I was moved to tears, 483 00:29:12,960 --> 00:29:18,680 and so that's why I decided later on to make a film about it. 484 00:29:18,760 --> 00:29:22,280 And what's the general consensus from a scientific point of view? 485 00:29:22,360 --> 00:29:25,200 From the scientific point of view of the Romanian Academy, 486 00:29:26,360 --> 00:29:29,200 it's a completely natural rock formation. 487 00:29:29,280 --> 00:29:34,000 OK. So it hasn't been touched by man, according to the experts? 488 00:29:34,800 --> 00:29:38,800 Yes, but again, the experts have never really spent time here, 489 00:29:38,160 --> 00:29:41,480 they have never ever done any archaeological dig, 490 00:29:41,560 --> 00:29:45,120 they just stick to the official way. 491 00:29:45,200 --> 00:29:46,120 -The official line. Absolutely. -Yes. 492 00:29:46,200 --> 00:29:48,960 It could be completely natural, 493 00:29:49,400 --> 00:29:53,240 but that doesn't mean that people wouldn't find this attractive, 494 00:29:53,320 --> 00:29:57,800 and interesting and special and want to gather here. 495 00:29:57,160 --> 00:29:59,680 It is a difficult one, really, isn't it? Because there's no proof, 496 00:29:59,760 --> 00:30:02,560 but there are so many people that find this such an extraordinary place. 497 00:30:02,640 --> 00:30:05,480 I mean I heard lot of stories about Bucegi. 498 00:30:05,560 --> 00:30:06,680 The Americans here, 499 00:30:06,760 --> 00:30:12,400 missile silos, crashed helicopters, weird spooky electromagnetic energy, 500 00:30:12,120 --> 00:30:14,480 there's got to be some truth somewhere. 501 00:30:14,560 --> 00:30:18,480 Yes, I mean there are so many. There was a really famous book, 502 00:30:18,560 --> 00:30:23,800 written about ten years ago, it's a mystery who the author was, 503 00:30:23,160 --> 00:30:29,840 but it's a book about the Sphynx being the site where CIA, FBI where searching 504 00:30:29,920 --> 00:30:34,160 an underground chamber where they found really big bones, 505 00:30:34,240 --> 00:30:38,160 big skulls of aliens. 506 00:30:38,240 --> 00:30:40,360 I knew it's only a matter of time 507 00:30:40,440 --> 00:30:43,800 before the word "aliens" came into this conversation. 508 00:30:44,600 --> 00:30:47,720 But you see that's the point, everyone has got their theory, 509 00:30:47,800 --> 00:30:51,680 it's that kind of place. It inspires theories. 510 00:30:51,760 --> 00:30:56,680 I would say that when I did the film people constantly asked me 511 00:30:56,760 --> 00:30:59,480 if I saw somebody from the US army, from the CIA, 512 00:30:59,560 --> 00:31:02,600 if I belonged to the CIA or FBI, 513 00:31:03,480 --> 00:31:04,920 if I was followed. 514 00:31:05,000 --> 00:31:08,920 And there were times when I did feel that somebody was following me. 515 00:31:09,000 --> 00:31:11,280 They were obviously very good at it because you didn't spot them. 516 00:31:11,360 --> 00:31:12,520 Yes. 517 00:31:12,600 --> 00:31:15,440 But do you think that these rocks have been, shall we say, 518 00:31:15,520 --> 00:31:16,800 surgically enhanced? 519 00:31:16,880 --> 00:31:19,560 Just a bit, at the eye. 520 00:31:19,640 --> 00:31:22,480 Just a bit of cosmetic surgery took place at a certain point. 521 00:31:22,560 --> 00:31:25,400 Well, anyone of these rocks can be something, 522 00:31:25,120 --> 00:31:26,880 they've all got very unique shapes, 523 00:31:26,960 --> 00:31:29,520 I mean you've got that one that looks like a mushroom behind us, 524 00:31:29,600 --> 00:31:32,200 and yeah, that one over there, 525 00:31:32,280 --> 00:31:34,680 which I hesitate to say what that looks like, 526 00:31:34,760 --> 00:31:38,440 perhaps is a fertility symbol, but...yes. 527 00:31:40,360 --> 00:31:43,600 And the other thing to bear in mind is that this is not in Transylvania, 528 00:31:43,680 --> 00:31:47,000 so I'm sorry Transylvania, you know, you are a very big region, 529 00:31:47,800 --> 00:31:48,880 you've got lots of lovely things to promote, 530 00:31:48,960 --> 00:31:51,640 but this isn't yours, this is Muntenia. 531 00:31:51,720 --> 00:31:54,280 -Yes, that's right. -Exactly. So tough. 532 00:31:54,360 --> 00:31:56,640 -Muntenia has the Sphynx. -It does. 533 00:32:00,600 --> 00:32:04,400 Natural geomorphologic. Not man-made! 534 00:32:05,160 --> 00:32:08,800 SPHINX NATIONAL PARK NATURAL GEOMORPHOLOGIC - NO CLIMBING! 535 00:32:13,200 --> 00:32:15,800 Gift shopping at this altitude. 536 00:32:15,160 --> 00:32:18,960 A mini sphinx to take home of your very own. 537 00:32:19,400 --> 00:32:19,840 A mini mini sphynx, 538 00:32:19,920 --> 00:32:23,680 A mini mini sphynx, depending on the size of your gift shelf. 539 00:32:23,760 --> 00:32:26,360 The thing I don't really understand is this. 540 00:32:26,440 --> 00:32:28,880 What would you say from an archaeological point of view? 541 00:32:31,760 --> 00:32:33,680 And the American black bear. 542 00:32:33,760 --> 00:32:37,760 Not the European brown bear, of course, but that's a minor detail. 543 00:32:37,840 --> 00:32:41,560 Plus, of course, it is eating a salmon, and to the best of my knowledge, 544 00:32:41,640 --> 00:32:44,800 bears don't eat salmon in Romania very often. 545 00:32:44,160 --> 00:32:47,320 I think this is probably the most useful item you can buy here... 546 00:32:48,200 --> 00:32:50,880 a compass, just what we need, 547 00:32:50,960 --> 00:32:55,880 especially if I am going to be riding my bike that way into the mountains, 548 00:32:55,960 --> 00:32:59,320 with no sat nav 'cause there's no signal, this could come in handy. 549 00:33:12,280 --> 00:33:17,800 Separating Romanian mythology from historical facts is rarely an easy task. 550 00:33:18,840 --> 00:33:22,920 My next stop is Corbii de Piatra or the Church of the Stone Ravens, 551 00:33:23,000 --> 00:33:26,880 which features ancient man-made chambers hewn into the walls of a cliff. 552 00:33:27,960 --> 00:33:28,800 Like the Sphinx, 553 00:33:28,880 --> 00:33:32,800 there are numerous schools of thought regarding its origin, 554 00:33:32,160 --> 00:33:36,120 but many historians now believe it predates Christianity entirely, 555 00:33:36,200 --> 00:33:40,240 and has much earlier pagan roots dating back to Neolithic times. 556 00:33:43,400 --> 00:33:45,120 What a fairy-tale landscape! 557 00:33:45,200 --> 00:33:49,160 I feel like I've ridden magically into the pages of a children's picture book. 558 00:34:07,920 --> 00:34:10,480 While looking around I met a university professor, 559 00:34:10,560 --> 00:34:12,480 who has been coming here since he was a child. 560 00:34:12,560 --> 00:34:16,840 My parents grew up here, my father died 15 years ago, 561 00:34:16,920 --> 00:34:21,000 but my mother still lives around, she is just 62 years old. 562 00:34:21,800 --> 00:34:23,240 -So she is still quite... -She is still a spring chicken! 563 00:34:24,400 --> 00:34:27,120 For people living in this village it seems to me that's quite young. 564 00:34:27,200 --> 00:34:28,520 That's true, yes. 565 00:34:28,600 --> 00:34:33,240 We are two brothers and three sisters and we decided to leave for studies. 566 00:34:33,320 --> 00:34:34,160 For instance, 567 00:34:34,240 --> 00:34:38,360 I made part of my studies in France and then I was travelling to Denmark, 568 00:34:38,440 --> 00:34:40,360 and then I started to travel the world. 569 00:34:40,440 --> 00:34:44,000 You are unusual in the sense that you're a person who comes back, 570 00:34:44,800 --> 00:34:47,400 and chooses to spend all the time you can in the village of your birth, 571 00:34:47,480 --> 00:34:50,920 while a lot of people in communities like this just leave. 572 00:34:51,000 --> 00:34:53,800 This is also the situation of some young people here. 573 00:34:53,880 --> 00:34:58,320 At a certain point we feel the need to leave in order to discover ourselves, 574 00:34:58,400 --> 00:35:02,560 but while coming back you rediscover yourself, 575 00:35:02,640 --> 00:35:06,800 which is about places that you know, feelings that you have, 576 00:35:06,880 --> 00:35:08,840 smells that you understand. 577 00:35:08,920 --> 00:35:12,840 And your identity is defined by where you've grown up and evolved. 578 00:35:12,920 --> 00:35:14,760 -Yes, I think that it is. -You have to embrace it. 579 00:35:14,840 --> 00:35:16,760 I have a grave here in this place. 580 00:35:16,840 --> 00:35:19,880 -You booked a spot, have you? -Yes, so is already established. 581 00:35:19,960 --> 00:35:21,000 It's already waiting. 582 00:35:21,800 --> 00:35:23,560 Well I think if there was a slogan for this community, 583 00:35:23,640 --> 00:35:25,000 it would be there's no rush, 584 00:35:25,800 --> 00:35:28,600 because people seem to be living well into their 80's and 90's. 585 00:35:28,680 --> 00:35:32,720 It's really an amazing place and I think that this state of being amazed 586 00:35:32,800 --> 00:35:36,360 is given by the people, that they still keep the traditions, 587 00:35:36,440 --> 00:35:39,840 and they are proud of this place, that's proud in a good sense, 588 00:35:40,360 --> 00:35:44,000 proud of their place, their neighbours, of their families, 589 00:35:44,800 --> 00:35:47,120 and what they live on a daily basis, I would say. 590 00:35:47,200 --> 00:35:48,640 To get a deeper understanding 591 00:35:48,720 --> 00:35:51,160 of the relationship between the caves and the church, 592 00:35:51,240 --> 00:35:55,360 I sought guidance from local minister Ignatius Jeromonarh Gorunescu. 593 00:35:56,400 --> 00:36:01,920 The history of this place, of this monument is bi-millennial. 594 00:36:02,000 --> 00:36:08,280 Historians that extensively documented this place of worship say that, 595 00:36:08,360 --> 00:36:14,960 2,000 years ago, the first Christians used a natural cave, 596 00:36:15,400 --> 00:36:21,120 which was hidden in the heart of this sandstone rock. 597 00:36:21,200 --> 00:36:24,320 The cave had three purposes. 598 00:36:24,400 --> 00:36:27,720 They used it as a church, to perform the religious service, 599 00:36:27,800 --> 00:36:29,160 as a hideout, 600 00:36:29,240 --> 00:36:36,120 because during early Christianity worshippers were seriously persecuted. 601 00:36:36,200 --> 00:36:42,520 And thirdly, as a place for gospel preaching. 602 00:36:42,600 --> 00:36:49,000 In 1300 the mural church was painted and we can still see it today. 603 00:36:49,800 --> 00:36:52,400 It is the oldest mural painting in Romania. 604 00:36:52,480 --> 00:36:58,160 Namaiesti, Cetatuia and Corbii de Piatra, all have their origins Pre-Christian, 605 00:36:58,240 --> 00:37:01,680 but they've all become very important spiritual sites. 606 00:37:01,760 --> 00:37:03,680 What's the reason do you think for this? 607 00:37:04,360 --> 00:37:07,840 We know from the spirituality of our ancestors, the Dacians, 608 00:37:07,920 --> 00:37:11,320 that they had monotheistic beliefs. 609 00:37:11,400 --> 00:37:15,120 They worshipped just one almighty God. 610 00:37:15,200 --> 00:37:21,120 It's very important that they believed in Resurrection, in life after death. 611 00:37:21,200 --> 00:37:27,120 The transition from pre-Christian paganism to Christianity 612 00:37:27,200 --> 00:37:29,400 was very simple for Romanians. 613 00:37:29,120 --> 00:37:31,920 Thank you so much for taking the time, it was great to meet you. 614 00:37:32,000 --> 00:37:36,800 I'm very glad we talked and please come again. 615 00:37:36,160 --> 00:37:37,360 Thank you so much. 616 00:37:38,400 --> 00:37:42,600 Corbii de Piatra is one of three cave churches that form a spiritual triangle, 617 00:37:42,680 --> 00:37:44,520 here in this remote part of Muntenia. 618 00:37:45,680 --> 00:37:48,320 The second may have originated as a hermit's dwelling, 619 00:37:48,400 --> 00:37:51,560 but has since seeded both a chapel and a thriving monastery. 620 00:37:53,000 --> 00:37:56,320 Namaiesti near Campulung is more of a village, 621 00:37:56,400 --> 00:37:59,640 populated almost entirely by nuns who do everything, 622 00:37:59,720 --> 00:38:02,280 from running the gift shop, to strimming the lawns. 623 00:38:03,000 --> 00:38:07,400 100 steps take you up to the courtyard, where I had a date with the boss. 624 00:38:37,240 --> 00:38:39,800 I'm a bit nervous because I'm about to meet the mother superior, 625 00:38:39,880 --> 00:38:43,960 who certainly in English tradition is quite a severe character, 626 00:38:44,400 --> 00:38:47,240 but apparently this one's rather bubbly and more than that, she's a poet. 627 00:38:47,320 --> 00:38:49,560 She's set up an ethnographic museum 628 00:38:49,640 --> 00:38:51,480 and collected all these wonderful garments, 629 00:38:52,800 --> 00:38:54,960 which tell many stories apparently. 630 00:39:00,880 --> 00:39:02,400 How is this poem called? 631 00:39:02,480 --> 00:39:05,400 -Ilenica, is getting married. -Please! 632 00:39:05,480 --> 00:39:07,880 "Handsome and caring Gheorghita 633 00:39:07,960 --> 00:39:10,600 Is marrying today the good girl, Ilenuta." 634 00:39:10,680 --> 00:39:13,120 "He is headmaster's son 635 00:39:13,200 --> 00:39:15,440 and she's the daughter of the priest." 636 00:39:15,520 --> 00:39:17,720 "On the right and on the left 637 00:39:17,800 --> 00:39:19,600 proud godfathers stay." 638 00:39:19,680 --> 00:39:23,600 "They baptized them and now they marry them." 639 00:39:23,680 --> 00:39:27,240 "When you see the sisters of the bride, you can't look aside." 640 00:39:27,320 --> 00:39:31,200 "Beautiful like fairies, they seem from old stories." 641 00:39:31,280 --> 00:39:36,800 "Groom's sisters are beautiful like two blue flowers, 642 00:39:36,880 --> 00:39:38,800 you can stare at them for hours." 643 00:39:38,880 --> 00:39:43,640 "Mothers-in-law are so gleeful, happy tears in their eyes, 644 00:39:43,720 --> 00:39:47,800 remembering their own wedding in May, as if it were yesterday." 645 00:39:47,880 --> 00:39:53,000 "Fathers-in-law are second to none, so proud, 646 00:39:53,800 --> 00:39:57,200 that it's the greatest wedding under the sun." 647 00:39:57,280 --> 00:39:59,800 "And now, one of the grandmothers speak." 648 00:39:59,160 --> 00:40:02,800 "Oh, God, time flies so fast, 649 00:40:02,880 --> 00:40:05,400 like flowers we picked up in the past." 650 00:40:05,480 --> 00:40:09,760 "Your wedding was like yesterday and all the village was so gay." 651 00:40:09,840 --> 00:40:14,200 "The newly-weds are now over the moon, 652 00:40:14,280 --> 00:40:17,680 still they'll be grandparents soon." 653 00:40:17,760 --> 00:40:20,440 "Tomorrow everything will be just a sweet memory." 654 00:40:31,280 --> 00:40:33,440 For the final corner of the triangle, 655 00:40:33,520 --> 00:40:36,720 we have to head far off the beaten track to a solitary hill, 656 00:40:36,800 --> 00:40:39,800 between Valea lui Coman and Valea Chiliilor, 657 00:40:39,880 --> 00:40:41,640 and overlooking the Dambovita River. 658 00:40:42,680 --> 00:40:45,800 At 880 meters above sea level, 659 00:40:45,160 --> 00:40:48,400 Cetatuia Negru Voda Monastery has been described 660 00:40:48,480 --> 00:40:50,920 as the Meteora of Romania. 661 00:41:35,840 --> 00:41:37,280 Well it's a bit of a stroll to get up here, 662 00:41:37,360 --> 00:41:38,880 it reminds me of the Cerna valley, 663 00:41:38,960 --> 00:41:41,400 Inelet or some of those villages in the hills. 664 00:41:41,120 --> 00:41:44,720 In fact it's a bit like some Himalayan temple, 665 00:41:44,800 --> 00:41:46,400 especially with that music. 666 00:41:46,480 --> 00:41:47,920 It's a very mystical environment. 667 00:41:51,160 --> 00:41:53,400 Built on the site of an ancient citadel, 668 00:41:53,480 --> 00:41:57,280 the rocks and caves carry carved symbols from the pre-Christian era. 669 00:42:17,720 --> 00:42:19,560 Well this region reminds me of Colti, 670 00:42:19,640 --> 00:42:25,720 where there are also prehistoric caves, now chapels, monasteries or churches, 671 00:42:25,800 --> 00:42:30,920 and what makes it so interesting is that these are just the ones we know about, 672 00:42:31,000 --> 00:42:34,400 and I'm sure out there in the mountains and the valleys on the hilltops 673 00:42:34,480 --> 00:42:36,920 there are others that people are either keeping secret, 674 00:42:37,000 --> 00:42:39,720 or have forgotten about or are waiting to be discovered. 675 00:42:39,800 --> 00:42:41,320 And that's the beauty of Muntenia. 676 00:42:41,400 --> 00:42:44,800 And coming here walking through these hills and mountains, 677 00:42:44,160 --> 00:42:45,560 who knows what you could find. 678 00:43:11,120 --> 00:43:12,400 Join us next time, 679 00:43:12,120 --> 00:43:14,680 when we will be leaving the mountains behind 680 00:43:14,760 --> 00:43:16,400 and heading east, to Dobrogea, 681 00:43:16,120 --> 00:43:18,880 the Black sea Coast and Europe's largest wetland, 682 00:43:18,960 --> 00:43:20,680 the majestic Danube Delta. 683 00:43:21,360 --> 00:43:23,160 I will be doing a spot of fishing, 684 00:43:23,240 --> 00:43:27,800 walking in the footsteps of an ancient pre-Christian civilisation, 685 00:43:27,160 --> 00:43:30,480 learning some dance moves and covering myself in mud. 686 00:43:31,160 --> 00:43:33,720 This and more in Flavours of Romania.