1 00:00:03,240 --> 00:00:06,440 Romania is a land of a thousand faces. 2 00:00:13,920 --> 00:00:17,160 The crossing point between the Occident and the Orient 3 00:00:17,240 --> 00:00:19,960 and a melting pot of different cultures. 4 00:00:21,960 --> 00:00:25,760 It is also a country unlike any other in Europe. 5 00:00:26,480 --> 00:00:30,720 With over 60 percent of the Carpathian Mountains weaving through it, 6 00:00:30,800 --> 00:00:36,120 Romania is the custodian of Europe's last great wilderness area... 7 00:00:36,200 --> 00:00:39,120 its largest remaining forest 8 00:00:39,200 --> 00:00:42,360 and two thirds of its surviving alpha predators. 9 00:00:45,640 --> 00:00:50,320 But increasingly this unique country's natural and cultural heritage 10 00:00:50,400 --> 00:00:53,960 is under threat from reckless development 11 00:00:54,400 --> 00:00:55,560 and a race to modernize 12 00:00:55,640 --> 00:01:00,280 which is often destroying the very things that could ensure prosperity 13 00:01:00,360 --> 00:01:03,480 and a sustainable livelihood for generations to come. 14 00:01:07,600 --> 00:01:11,560 Welcome back to our eight part road trip of Romania's historic regions 15 00:01:11,640 --> 00:01:13,960 in which we discover fabulous treasures, 16 00:01:14,400 --> 00:01:17,120 natural wonders, medieval marvels, 17 00:01:17,200 --> 00:01:18,720 mouthwatering dishes 18 00:01:18,800 --> 00:01:21,640 and meet the people that make this one of the warmest 19 00:01:21,720 --> 00:01:24,800 and most hospitable nations in the world. 20 00:01:26,800 --> 00:01:30,200 We will also be finding out how this hugely misunderstood country 21 00:01:30,280 --> 00:01:32,640 is emerging from post-Communist chaos... 22 00:01:33,440 --> 00:01:36,520 and identifying some of the challenges it faces 23 00:01:36,600 --> 00:01:40,600 and how tourism could provide one of its best hopes for the future. 24 00:02:02,960 --> 00:02:05,120 This week we are heading east to Dobrogea. 25 00:02:05,200 --> 00:02:09,280 It's a region rich in history, and modern ethnic diversity 26 00:02:09,360 --> 00:02:13,600 not least because it incorporates Romania's only stretch of coastline. 27 00:02:14,160 --> 00:02:17,120 Here the Danube Delta, Europe's largest wetland 28 00:02:17,200 --> 00:02:19,400 fans out into the Black Sea 29 00:02:19,480 --> 00:02:23,400 creating another vast and fragile eco-system 30 00:02:23,560 --> 00:02:27,800 interwoven with myriad waterways reed beds and lakes 31 00:02:27,880 --> 00:02:31,240 meandering for over 300 squared kilometers. 32 00:02:34,640 --> 00:02:37,760 On the edge of this watery kingdom sits Jurilovca, 33 00:02:38,400 --> 00:02:41,800 a small fishing community founded in 1826 34 00:02:41,880 --> 00:02:46,280 by Lipovans who fled Russia following religious persecution by Peter The Great. 35 00:02:47,480 --> 00:02:51,200 It is now experiencing a renaissance thanks to cultural tourism. 36 00:02:51,880 --> 00:02:53,800 I'm here to find out why 37 00:02:53,880 --> 00:02:57,800 and see what this sleepy backwater has to offer the intrepid traveller. 38 00:03:00,360 --> 00:03:03,160 Hotel Bella Marina is a converted cruise ship, 39 00:03:03,240 --> 00:03:05,480 moored on the edge of the picturesque harbor, 40 00:03:05,560 --> 00:03:07,640 looking out over Razelm Lake. 41 00:03:08,160 --> 00:03:09,400 It offers cozy cabins 42 00:03:09,480 --> 00:03:12,680 and provides a good base from which to see the local sights. 43 00:03:14,800 --> 00:03:17,720 Foremost of these is the ancient Greek fortress of Argamum, 44 00:03:17,800 --> 00:03:20,800 one of the oldest settlements in Romania, 45 00:03:20,160 --> 00:03:23,600 mentioned in documents dating from the 6th century BC. 46 00:03:24,760 --> 00:03:26,840 Today most of it remains hidden 47 00:03:26,920 --> 00:03:29,800 beneath many meters of earth and coastal grasslands. 48 00:03:30,640 --> 00:03:34,320 But even the little that remains above ground is an arresting site. 49 00:03:43,480 --> 00:03:46,000 I am here to meet local guide Marius 50 00:03:46,800 --> 00:03:48,840 who I hoped could shed more light on this eerie, windswept ruin. 51 00:03:49,440 --> 00:03:53,400 Charlie, imagine that 7,000 years ago this was just the Black Sea 52 00:03:53,480 --> 00:03:55,560 and the Danube brought so many sediments 53 00:03:55,640 --> 00:03:58,400 and created this amazing and very strategically important gulf 54 00:03:58,480 --> 00:03:59,760 that was very appealing for the Greeks 55 00:03:59,840 --> 00:04:03,400 when they came and created the first settlement here on the Black Sea. 56 00:04:03,480 --> 00:04:06,680 So this was really to supervise the trade routes. 57 00:04:06,760 --> 00:04:09,320 Yes and to create some connection with the local tribes. 58 00:04:09,400 --> 00:04:11,200 And this was a city in itself wasn't it? 59 00:04:11,280 --> 00:04:12,160 It was a huge city 60 00:04:12,240 --> 00:04:13,920 imagine when the boats they were coming over the sea 61 00:04:14,000 --> 00:04:16,200 and they were seeing the big fortress. 62 00:04:16,280 --> 00:04:20,400 Are there any plans to excavate or restore parts of the fortress? 63 00:04:20,480 --> 00:04:23,320 Plans are always but we have to wait for the implementation, 64 00:04:23,400 --> 00:04:25,240 because here they've discovered so many tombs 65 00:04:25,320 --> 00:04:28,240 and this was the oldest Greek tomb from Romania. 66 00:04:28,320 --> 00:04:30,120 Now it's in Tulcea museum. 67 00:04:30,200 --> 00:04:33,400 Now we can use only the imagination to think how it was before, 68 00:04:33,120 --> 00:04:36,640 because we know that underneath our feet there are so many things to discover, 69 00:04:36,720 --> 00:04:38,520 but besides that it's an advantage also 70 00:04:38,600 --> 00:04:39,560 because for the tourists 71 00:04:39,640 --> 00:04:42,120 when they are coming in such a beautiful and huge place like this 72 00:04:42,200 --> 00:04:43,960 they enjoy it, it's a peaceful place. 73 00:04:44,400 --> 00:04:45,800 They don't stay in a queue 74 00:04:45,160 --> 00:04:47,840 they are just enjoying the view and imagining how the world was before. 75 00:04:48,640 --> 00:04:52,240 And of course you decided to join the people here 76 00:04:52,320 --> 00:04:54,160 by setting up your own place, haven't you? 77 00:04:54,240 --> 00:04:55,680 Together with my wife we lived in Bucharest 78 00:04:55,760 --> 00:04:57,480 we were working in corporations, in companies 79 00:04:57,560 --> 00:04:58,880 and we decided to come here, 80 00:04:58,960 --> 00:05:00,760 to establish a guest house for the people 81 00:05:00,840 --> 00:05:04,280 because we believe that tourism is offering so many things. 82 00:05:04,360 --> 00:05:07,560 It can educate people, it can make people more relaxed, 83 00:05:07,640 --> 00:05:09,160 it can bring together people. 84 00:05:09,240 --> 00:05:12,960 And also to have a sustainable tourism, an eco tourism, an agro tourism. 85 00:05:13,400 --> 00:05:14,560 Well it seems to be working. 86 00:05:14,640 --> 00:05:17,560 Yes is the beginning but we have many places that are close to us 87 00:05:18,240 --> 00:05:19,360 and this is our vision. 88 00:05:35,840 --> 00:05:38,200 Jurilovca is a pretty little town. 89 00:05:38,720 --> 00:05:40,160 Its dusty streets are peppered 90 00:05:40,240 --> 00:05:42,760 with a growing number of traditional guesthouses 91 00:05:42,840 --> 00:05:44,440 in distinct Lipovan style, 92 00:05:45,240 --> 00:05:47,520 with brightly painted walls and wooden timber frames. 93 00:05:48,840 --> 00:05:52,360 I have an appointment at one of them with resident chef Angela Luca 94 00:05:52,440 --> 00:05:56,160 who'd kindly agreed to show me how to cook a colorful local delicacy: 95 00:05:56,240 --> 00:05:58,520 Rulada de Peste or fish roulade. 96 00:05:59,240 --> 00:06:01,920 -Hello! -Dobrý den! Hello! 97 00:06:02,000 --> 00:06:04,400 Welcome to Jurilovca! 98 00:06:05,800 --> 00:06:07,400 This is a beautiful house. 99 00:06:07,480 --> 00:06:10,360 Yes, it is a traditional Lipoven house. 100 00:06:10,440 --> 00:06:15,400 There are tourists who come here because they like traditions, 101 00:06:15,480 --> 00:06:18,520 to see how our parents and grandparents lived, 102 00:06:18,600 --> 00:06:20,560 because this is how we maintained the house, 103 00:06:20,640 --> 00:06:23,400 as it initially was, as people used to live in it, 104 00:06:23,120 --> 00:06:24,680 it was just slightly renovated. 105 00:06:24,760 --> 00:06:27,440 And the rest we kept exactly as it was. 106 00:06:27,520 --> 00:06:28,560 As it was. Fantastic. 107 00:06:28,640 --> 00:06:30,400 Welcome to our kitchen. 108 00:06:34,480 --> 00:06:36,320 So what's on the menu? 109 00:06:36,400 --> 00:06:40,120 Today I will prepare you a three colored roulade, 110 00:06:40,200 --> 00:06:41,760 stuffed with fish. 111 00:06:41,840 --> 00:06:45,280 Roulade is normally a sweet dish lined with fruit or chocolate. 112 00:06:45,360 --> 00:06:49,720 To create one with a carp filling, certainly makes for an intriguing take 113 00:06:49,800 --> 00:06:51,400 on the more conventional recipes. 114 00:06:52,240 --> 00:06:53,960 First of all she separates the eggs 115 00:06:54,400 --> 00:06:56,320 and places the whipped egg white into three bowls, 116 00:06:56,400 --> 00:06:59,680 while combining the yolks with oil, flour and baking powder 117 00:06:59,760 --> 00:07:01,720 into three separate bowls. 118 00:07:02,600 --> 00:07:06,840 To these are added white cheese, spinach or tomato paste and cream. 119 00:07:07,640 --> 00:07:10,200 This generates three colors that make up the roulade, 120 00:07:10,280 --> 00:07:13,000 which after being sifted back in with the egg white, 121 00:07:13,800 --> 00:07:15,200 are poured onto a baking tray. 122 00:07:17,000 --> 00:07:19,200 Following ten minutes, at 200 degrees, 123 00:07:19,280 --> 00:07:22,960 Angela flips out the base and rolls it up in a damp towel. 124 00:07:24,000 --> 00:07:25,360 Lastly she creates the filling 125 00:07:25,440 --> 00:07:27,960 by mixing filleted carp with soured cream. 126 00:07:28,680 --> 00:07:30,400 While waiting for the base to cool, 127 00:07:30,480 --> 00:07:33,200 Angela told me a bit more about the Lipovan community. 128 00:07:33,280 --> 00:07:39,160 It is a very strong community, very united, very religious, 129 00:07:39,240 --> 00:07:45,800 close to God, and to our culture, close to what's beautiful, to nature. 130 00:07:45,880 --> 00:07:51,720 Our celebrations are held 13 days after the Romanian Orthodox calendar. 131 00:07:51,800 --> 00:07:54,600 We follow the old Julian calendar, 132 00:07:54,680 --> 00:07:58,880 and the services are held in the church, in old Slavonic. 133 00:07:58,960 --> 00:08:01,400 And the people speak Russian? 134 00:08:01,480 --> 00:08:04,800 Yes, the people are still speaking Russian. 135 00:08:04,880 --> 00:08:07,000 Young people talk more in Romanian, 136 00:08:07,800 --> 00:08:11,000 while the old people still follow the tradition, 137 00:08:11,800 --> 00:08:13,800 trying to speak only Russian. 138 00:08:13,880 --> 00:08:16,320 Back indoors the base was ready to unroll. 139 00:08:17,280 --> 00:08:19,800 The filling is then added before being rolled up again 140 00:08:19,880 --> 00:08:22,800 and chilled for five more minutes in the fridge. 141 00:08:24,320 --> 00:08:25,600 The finished roulade. 142 00:08:25,680 --> 00:08:26,800 Let's see our roulade. 143 00:08:27,440 --> 00:08:28,800 Let's cut it. 144 00:08:28,880 --> 00:08:30,640 Angela that looks amazing! 145 00:08:31,480 --> 00:08:34,280 Well this segment because all three segments are going to taste different, 146 00:08:34,360 --> 00:08:36,640 there's a slightly cake like quality. 147 00:08:36,720 --> 00:08:38,800 Also you can taste the fish and cream. 148 00:08:38,880 --> 00:08:40,600 I wouldn't say it's a low fat option 149 00:08:40,680 --> 00:08:43,640 but it is fantastic and it's something you can easily cook at home. 150 00:08:47,520 --> 00:08:50,120 Well it's clouded over a little bit but hopefully by tonight 151 00:08:50,200 --> 00:08:52,480 when we have the music and the dancing and the fire 152 00:08:52,560 --> 00:08:54,160 we will get some stars as well. 153 00:08:54,240 --> 00:08:56,400 Anyway that was beautiful, 154 00:08:56,120 --> 00:08:57,880 it looked beautiful and it tasted beautiful 155 00:08:57,960 --> 00:08:59,120 and as far as I'm concerned 156 00:08:59,200 --> 00:09:01,880 this is one of my favorite flavors of Romania so far. 157 00:09:08,600 --> 00:09:10,520 On the far side of lake Golovita, 158 00:09:10,600 --> 00:09:14,680 a great sandy bar runs north and south along the coastline, 159 00:09:14,760 --> 00:09:17,400 separating salt from fresh water 160 00:09:17,120 --> 00:09:22,200 and forming an integral part of the Danube Delta Biosphere reserve. 161 00:09:22,720 --> 00:09:23,880 Visitors can come here, 162 00:09:23,960 --> 00:09:28,000 and marvel at one of the most unspoiled stretches of coastline in Europe. 163 00:09:50,200 --> 00:09:51,520 This is very unexpected, 164 00:09:51,600 --> 00:09:53,440 I've travelled all the way across the lake, 165 00:09:53,520 --> 00:09:56,960 the reeds have opened up here's this channel thatched rooves 166 00:09:57,400 --> 00:10:02,440 and lots of people in paddle boats wearing life jackets, safety first. 167 00:10:18,920 --> 00:10:21,360 This is Gura Portitei resort village. 168 00:10:21,440 --> 00:10:24,560 During the summer months a group of Lipovan singers often come 169 00:10:24,640 --> 00:10:27,400 and serenade guests around the campfire, 170 00:10:27,120 --> 00:10:30,880 performing songs and dances so specific to this region, 171 00:10:30,960 --> 00:10:33,680 they can't be heard anywhere else in the world. 172 00:10:40,920 --> 00:10:43,960 Unfortunately it was too late to run by the time I realized 173 00:10:44,400 --> 00:10:47,840 our musical troupe required some audience participation. 174 00:11:11,600 --> 00:11:14,800 Well, that was a slightly embarrassing end to a wonderful day 175 00:11:14,880 --> 00:11:17,520 here with the Lipovan community in Jurilovca. 176 00:11:17,600 --> 00:11:19,280 It's only our first day in the Danube Delta 177 00:11:19,360 --> 00:11:22,240 and already I'm feeling like I'm in another country. 178 00:11:22,320 --> 00:11:24,280 But of course that's the beauty of Romania, 179 00:11:24,360 --> 00:11:27,920 there are so many different cultures within one country 180 00:11:28,000 --> 00:11:31,800 so it feels like you are travelling the world 181 00:11:31,160 --> 00:11:33,400 but you are really only in one place 182 00:11:33,120 --> 00:11:35,520 and tomorrow we go deeper into the Delta. 183 00:11:37,960 --> 00:11:40,360 The night's excitement was not over however 184 00:11:40,440 --> 00:11:45,120 as we encountered the first crack of thunder on the way home to Jurilovca. 185 00:11:45,200 --> 00:11:48,600 And there are few more exciting meteorological spectacles 186 00:11:48,680 --> 00:11:51,360 than an electrical storm over the Danube Delta. 187 00:11:53,960 --> 00:11:57,360 This is what's amazing about the Danube Delta, 188 00:11:57,440 --> 00:12:01,000 there's no average weather here, it's either very cold or it's very hot 189 00:12:01,800 --> 00:12:05,200 or you've got the raw elemental power of lightning and thunder. 190 00:12:05,280 --> 00:12:06,720 I was going to go to bed 191 00:12:06,800 --> 00:12:09,880 but this is better than Guy Fawkes night or fireworks displays, 192 00:12:09,960 --> 00:12:13,800 just standing out here with a beer watching it all. 193 00:12:24,240 --> 00:12:26,160 The next morning it dawned dry and bright 194 00:12:26,240 --> 00:12:28,960 and it was time to leave the Lipovans behind, 195 00:12:29,400 --> 00:12:30,280 and drive an hour inland 196 00:12:30,360 --> 00:12:33,760 to visit another one of Romania's diverse ethnic groups. 197 00:12:34,520 --> 00:12:37,160 The Aromanians, sometimes called Macedonians, 198 00:12:37,240 --> 00:12:39,560 originated from the Southern Balkans, 199 00:12:39,640 --> 00:12:42,960 Greece, Macedonia and south west Bulgaria. 200 00:12:44,280 --> 00:12:46,480 Many came to Romania during the middle ages 201 00:12:46,560 --> 00:12:48,160 to escape the Ottoman Empire, 202 00:12:48,240 --> 00:12:50,480 but more recently in 1925, 203 00:12:50,560 --> 00:12:54,600 King Ferdinand appointed them land and privileges to settle here. 204 00:12:55,120 --> 00:12:59,360 I wanted to see how the Aromanian culture differs from the Romanian 205 00:12:59,440 --> 00:13:03,560 and how they have built their own society here in this remote part of Dobrogea. 206 00:13:03,640 --> 00:13:07,840 -Hello. -Welcome to the Aromanian community. 207 00:13:12,360 --> 00:13:14,560 It's a bit early for palinca, no? 208 00:13:14,640 --> 00:13:16,840 -No, it's their free time. -Perfect. 209 00:13:16,920 --> 00:13:19,160 When we drink, we drink. When we have fun, we have fun. 210 00:13:19,240 --> 00:13:21,960 When we work, we work. We don't mix them. 211 00:13:22,400 --> 00:13:24,240 How do people make a living in a place like this? 212 00:13:24,320 --> 00:13:28,240 Our main source of income comes from breeding animals. 213 00:13:28,320 --> 00:13:31,120 Because when we came from Bulgaria this was our number one concern. 214 00:13:31,200 --> 00:13:32,000 Where should we go? 215 00:13:32,800 --> 00:13:34,520 Where there are green pastures for our animals. 216 00:13:34,600 --> 00:13:39,240 The second one is agriculture. Many people are farmers. 217 00:13:39,320 --> 00:13:42,240 And the third source of income is trade. 218 00:13:42,320 --> 00:13:45,840 Romanians have been trading for a long time, 219 00:13:45,920 --> 00:13:50,840 and some say that they even topped the Jews. 220 00:13:50,920 --> 00:13:51,720 What about the young people? 221 00:13:51,800 --> 00:13:55,000 Are they still keeping the traditions, the Macedonian traditions? 222 00:13:56,360 --> 00:13:58,400 This is a very good question. 223 00:13:58,120 --> 00:14:03,400 Mass-media and the entire technology had an impact on Aromanians, too. 224 00:14:03,120 --> 00:14:05,240 But in order to keep these traditions, 225 00:14:05,880 --> 00:14:08,680 we contacted the Romanian Government through the Government, 226 00:14:08,760 --> 00:14:10,320 the minister of education, 227 00:14:10,960 --> 00:14:15,120 and we managed to get for the young Aromanians, who go to school, 228 00:14:15,200 --> 00:14:17,160 an optional course on language and tradition. 229 00:14:17,240 --> 00:14:22,680 Through this course we can slow a bit the assimilation, 230 00:14:22,760 --> 00:14:25,760 which is very fast in the case of every ethnicity. 231 00:14:25,840 --> 00:14:28,120 Is everybody in this community Macedonian? 232 00:14:28,200 --> 00:14:33,480 If we refer to this village, the percentage is about 90%. 233 00:14:33,560 --> 00:14:36,320 When I started first grade, I couldn't speak any Romanian at all. 234 00:14:36,400 --> 00:14:39,400 But step by step we overcame this obstacle, 235 00:14:39,480 --> 00:14:41,560 and everyone prospered. 236 00:14:41,640 --> 00:14:44,560 In sports for example, 237 00:14:44,640 --> 00:14:48,160 Hagi, when he started something, he finished it. 238 00:14:48,240 --> 00:14:52,160 Not to mention Simona Halep, who is also Aromanian, 239 00:14:52,240 --> 00:14:55,360 born from this very village. 240 00:14:55,440 --> 00:14:56,640 Her parents come from this place. 241 00:14:56,720 --> 00:14:57,960 -Her parents are from here? -Yes. 242 00:14:58,400 --> 00:14:59,320 And she made it where she is today. 243 00:14:59,400 --> 00:15:05,000 Why? Because she followed the tradition and the education she got home. 244 00:15:06,960 --> 00:15:09,640 Being a hospitable bunch, it was hardly surprising 245 00:15:09,720 --> 00:15:13,240 when the local mayor invited us back to his house for a quick bite 246 00:15:13,320 --> 00:15:15,920 and a further insight into Aromanian society. 247 00:15:16,000 --> 00:15:17,200 -Hello. -Hello. 248 00:15:18,800 --> 00:15:21,600 Lunch consisted of Piperchi tzargasiti 249 00:15:21,680 --> 00:15:24,360 and cheese pie among other delicacies. 250 00:15:24,440 --> 00:15:26,760 What's specific about Macedonian cuisine? 251 00:15:26,840 --> 00:15:28,160 What's specific is the fact 252 00:15:28,240 --> 00:15:32,160 that every Aromanian woman knows how to prepare this. 253 00:15:32,240 --> 00:15:37,760 Until now, every girl was taught everything by her mother. 254 00:15:37,840 --> 00:15:41,920 The pies, the dough, every ingredient was homemade. 255 00:15:42,000 --> 00:15:44,520 No one bought them. 256 00:15:44,600 --> 00:15:46,360 Everything was homemade. 257 00:15:46,440 --> 00:15:47,760 How are we going to eat this? 258 00:15:47,840 --> 00:15:48,640 By hand? 259 00:15:48,720 --> 00:15:50,440 Yes, by hand. 260 00:15:50,520 --> 00:15:52,320 Usually, by hand. 261 00:15:52,400 --> 00:15:53,680 Thank you so much. 262 00:15:56,000 --> 00:15:59,120 Charlie, we usually mix business and pleasure. 263 00:15:59,200 --> 00:16:01,520 After a good meal, you need good music, too. 264 00:16:01,600 --> 00:16:03,720 It helps with digestion and cheerfulness. 265 00:16:03,800 --> 00:16:08,920 We didn't plan it, but we also happen to have traditional music. 266 00:16:09,000 --> 00:16:10,480 Let the music play! Maestro! 267 00:17:03,400 --> 00:17:05,280 I didn't realize you brought dancers as well. 268 00:17:06,640 --> 00:17:07,880 That was totally brilliant 269 00:17:08,400 --> 00:17:12,560 I love the music and how unexpected to get dancing as well. 270 00:17:12,640 --> 00:17:13,680 Romania's got talent. 271 00:17:14,840 --> 00:17:16,360 There is just one thing left to do, 272 00:17:16,440 --> 00:17:20,280 I was told this is a delicacy, the eye of the sheep. 273 00:17:21,400 --> 00:17:24,160 I saw this done on Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom I think, 274 00:17:24,240 --> 00:17:28,160 so I promised myself before leaving today I'd also give it a whirl. 275 00:17:29,160 --> 00:17:29,960 The eye. 276 00:17:32,120 --> 00:17:33,320 Strangely very nice. 277 00:17:40,840 --> 00:17:44,920 Heading north east towards the sea the low hills melt into flat lands. 278 00:17:46,400 --> 00:17:48,720 Thanks to its proximity to the spice routes, 279 00:17:48,800 --> 00:17:51,680 this region, more than anywhere else in Romania 280 00:17:51,760 --> 00:17:54,680 has witnessed thousands of years of colonial history. 281 00:17:55,920 --> 00:17:58,400 Wherever there is a hill or vantage point 282 00:17:58,120 --> 00:18:02,120 you can often find evidence of bygone civilizations, 283 00:18:02,200 --> 00:18:04,400 like this fortress at Enisala. 284 00:18:06,360 --> 00:18:11,760 Eventually, even solid ground itself dissolves into a labyrinth of lakes, 285 00:18:11,840 --> 00:18:13,560 channels and reed beds. 286 00:18:14,160 --> 00:18:15,920 This is the Danube Delta, 287 00:18:16,640 --> 00:18:20,280 a place as beautiful as it is inhospitable. 288 00:18:21,160 --> 00:18:24,760 Yet here, man continues to co-exist with nature, 289 00:18:24,840 --> 00:18:28,680 through harsh winters, mosquitos, blazing summers 290 00:18:28,760 --> 00:18:33,480 and constantly shifting waterways, mud banks and fickle peninsulas 291 00:18:33,560 --> 00:18:36,400 that creep right to edges of the Black sea. 292 00:18:43,240 --> 00:18:45,120 To enter this harsh but magical kingdom, 293 00:18:45,200 --> 00:18:48,800 you have to leave the road behind and take to the water. 294 00:18:49,920 --> 00:18:53,240 My destination is the coastal town of Sfantu Gheorghe 295 00:18:53,320 --> 00:18:55,760 perched at the very mouth of the river Danube; 296 00:18:55,840 --> 00:18:58,360 an unlikely but breathtaking place 297 00:18:58,440 --> 00:19:01,320 to spend a few days getting back to nature. 298 00:19:58,240 --> 00:20:02,360 Welcome to Green Village, an eco-resort on the edge of town. 299 00:20:02,880 --> 00:20:07,120 Traditional wooden lodges cluster around a restaurant, spa and cinema, 300 00:20:07,640 --> 00:20:09,680 affording guests a comfortable basecamp 301 00:20:09,760 --> 00:20:12,240 from which to explore Europe's largest wetland. 302 00:20:22,400 --> 00:20:27,600 Rooms are comfortable and stylish plus a short walk from your front door 303 00:20:27,680 --> 00:20:30,440 and you can take a boat just about anywhere in the delta. 304 00:20:32,360 --> 00:20:35,200 To immerse myself in this amphibious lifestyle 305 00:20:35,280 --> 00:20:39,720 I recruited local and guide Anca Simeon for a trip down the leafy backwaters. 306 00:20:40,880 --> 00:20:44,160 How do you know how to find your way through these channels 307 00:20:44,240 --> 00:20:45,800 'cause there are thousands of them. 308 00:20:45,880 --> 00:20:47,920 Yes, I think you should be born here. 309 00:20:48,000 --> 00:20:50,960 -Yeah, like you. -To find... Like me 310 00:20:51,400 --> 00:20:52,840 So you've grown up here in Sfantul Gheorghe? 311 00:20:52,920 --> 00:20:55,960 Yes I grew up and my parents grew up here, 312 00:20:56,400 --> 00:20:57,200 I have a little brother, 313 00:20:57,280 --> 00:20:59,960 my father is a fisherman, my brother is also fisherman. 314 00:21:00,400 --> 00:21:04,800 Every so often these isolated waterways emerge from the reeds 315 00:21:04,160 --> 00:21:06,120 to reveal one of the hundreds of lakes 316 00:21:06,200 --> 00:21:08,960 that form a vast network across the delta. 317 00:21:11,400 --> 00:21:16,800 The water is so clear you can see all the plants coming up. 318 00:21:16,160 --> 00:21:18,400 It's like skimming over a forest. 319 00:21:18,120 --> 00:21:22,760 Yes, this it is like a forest because in this period the water is not so hot, 320 00:21:22,840 --> 00:21:26,640 the vegetation starts to grow and it is not so deep. 321 00:21:26,720 --> 00:21:28,240 What do you think can be done 322 00:21:28,320 --> 00:21:33,400 about keeping the Delta pristine and preserving it? 323 00:21:33,120 --> 00:21:34,520 We have to discuss with people 324 00:21:34,600 --> 00:21:38,720 and to make very powerful messages for them to understand 325 00:21:38,800 --> 00:21:42,720 that they are living in a town through which goes the Danube River 326 00:21:42,800 --> 00:21:48,160 but here is the end and we receive everything that... 327 00:21:48,240 --> 00:21:49,720 -That they are chucking away. -Yes. 328 00:21:49,800 --> 00:21:52,920 It's kind of treated like Europe's toilet. 329 00:21:53,000 --> 00:21:55,640 We have a very natural beach in our village 330 00:21:55,720 --> 00:21:58,000 and when there are stormy days 331 00:21:58,800 --> 00:22:00,640 all trash from the sea comes to our beach. 332 00:22:00,720 --> 00:22:03,320 It is a fragile ecosystem here. 333 00:22:03,400 --> 00:22:07,400 Beautiful, you know, very beautiful but fragile. 334 00:22:07,120 --> 00:22:08,960 Still, still fragile. 335 00:22:11,000 --> 00:22:13,440 On the way back from our water born safari, 336 00:22:13,520 --> 00:22:17,440 we spotted a makeshift fisherman's camp perched on the banks of the Danube. 337 00:22:18,360 --> 00:22:20,440 I couldn't resist taking a closer look. 338 00:22:21,400 --> 00:22:24,760 -Hello! -Hello! Welcome! 339 00:22:25,280 --> 00:22:27,680 Luckily we were welcome with open arms. 340 00:22:27,760 --> 00:22:30,240 And the promise of some campfire cuisine. 341 00:22:30,320 --> 00:22:32,400 So we've timed this rather well. 342 00:22:32,120 --> 00:22:33,600 I was getting a bit hungry actually 343 00:22:33,680 --> 00:22:36,240 after travelling around those waterways for few hours. 344 00:22:36,320 --> 00:22:37,880 I love this little community here. 345 00:22:37,960 --> 00:22:40,840 Do they come here just for the summer because it looks like a makeshift camp, 346 00:22:40,920 --> 00:22:42,240 it's not all year round? 347 00:22:42,320 --> 00:22:44,400 They come just for the spring Herring season, 348 00:22:44,120 --> 00:22:50,000 they are coming from Mahmudia 45 km up on the river, yes. 349 00:22:50,800 --> 00:22:54,200 -So these guys have Turkish ancestries? -Turkish and Ukrainian. 350 00:22:54,280 --> 00:22:56,760 -Ukrainian? -Yes, it is a mix of cultures, 351 00:22:56,840 --> 00:22:59,320 you know Dobrogea has more than 12 minorities. 352 00:22:59,400 --> 00:23:01,640 And so how long would they be here? 353 00:23:01,720 --> 00:23:04,280 The season starts in March or April 354 00:23:04,360 --> 00:23:07,720 and now we are almost at the end of the season. 355 00:23:07,800 --> 00:23:10,400 Where do they go after that? Do they fish for different fish? 356 00:23:10,480 --> 00:23:12,840 Yes. They fish for different fish in different channels. 357 00:23:12,920 --> 00:23:16,320 If it's not frozen they are fishing all the time. 358 00:23:16,400 --> 00:23:17,760 I see why, it's that simple. 359 00:23:18,440 --> 00:23:21,520 Gut and prepare your herring and put it on a stick. 360 00:23:21,600 --> 00:23:22,560 Fish sticks. 361 00:23:22,640 --> 00:23:26,400 Yes and they put it in the fire they will cook for us and that's it. 362 00:23:26,480 --> 00:23:28,960 This is what I mean about fresh Danube cuisine, 363 00:23:29,400 --> 00:23:31,400 caught just there in that river, 364 00:23:31,120 --> 00:23:33,160 three hours later it's being prepared, 365 00:23:33,240 --> 00:23:36,800 stuck on a stick put on the fire and eaten by us. 366 00:23:36,160 --> 00:23:37,320 So if you want to experience this 367 00:23:37,400 --> 00:23:39,280 you're going to have to come to the Danube Delta 368 00:23:39,360 --> 00:23:41,200 and do it first hand for yourself. 369 00:23:41,280 --> 00:23:42,200 Natural. 370 00:23:43,360 --> 00:23:46,880 It is put with the tail down and with the head up. 371 00:23:46,960 --> 00:23:48,920 And that helps the moisture to go through. 372 00:23:49,000 --> 00:23:49,800 -Yes. -OK. 373 00:23:51,800 --> 00:23:53,520 Very good. And we have herring roe inside. 374 00:23:53,600 --> 00:23:55,960 Even better so we have a bit of caviar in the middle. 375 00:24:02,480 --> 00:24:04,520 Having eaten my fill of herring, 376 00:24:04,600 --> 00:24:06,400 I headed back out onto the water 377 00:24:06,480 --> 00:24:09,120 in time to join local fishermen, Emanuel, and his friend 378 00:24:09,200 --> 00:24:11,600 as they were finishing their second shift of the day. 379 00:24:13,800 --> 00:24:16,200 Do you know how many fish from the weight? 380 00:24:16,280 --> 00:24:18,320 No. 381 00:24:18,400 --> 00:24:21,680 So it's a surprise. Every time. 382 00:24:22,480 --> 00:24:24,800 This is a big net, how long are the nets? 383 00:24:24,880 --> 00:24:26,920 -About 150 m. -OK. 384 00:24:27,680 --> 00:24:30,120 This is a good catch? You expect more? 385 00:24:30,200 --> 00:24:34,000 Mornings around 40 kg. Now about 15-20. 386 00:24:36,800 --> 00:24:39,400 Do you think tourism is taking off here in Sfantul Gheorghe, 387 00:24:39,480 --> 00:24:40,600 do you think it's good for the town? 388 00:24:40,680 --> 00:24:42,200 It's good. 389 00:24:42,280 --> 00:24:47,760 It's like the sole source of income for the local people. Besides fishery. 390 00:24:48,400 --> 00:24:49,760 Fishery and then tourism. 391 00:25:01,000 --> 00:25:03,560 Hauling in your catch is only part of the day's routine, 392 00:25:04,120 --> 00:25:05,600 even with a boatload of herring 393 00:25:05,680 --> 00:25:07,400 there was still plenty of work left to do. 394 00:25:08,800 --> 00:25:12,000 It's a delicate business because the net can get stuck in their teeth, 395 00:25:12,800 --> 00:25:15,760 you have to get it off the fish without damaging or breaking it 396 00:25:15,840 --> 00:25:19,400 because a lot of time is spent mending the nets when they break. 397 00:25:19,480 --> 00:25:21,840 A big sturgeon will put a hole straight through your net 398 00:25:21,920 --> 00:25:23,640 and that's happening thankfully 399 00:25:23,720 --> 00:25:26,440 because of the ban on sturgeon fishing they are growing again 400 00:25:26,520 --> 00:25:27,800 and the numbers are going up, 401 00:25:27,880 --> 00:25:29,880 and some of the guys have told me that 402 00:25:29,960 --> 00:25:34,800 they have actually had their nets holed by large sturgeon heading upriver 403 00:25:34,880 --> 00:25:36,360 which is an encouraging thing to hear. 404 00:25:37,680 --> 00:25:41,800 So the herring season is almost finished and then you go up the river further... 405 00:25:41,880 --> 00:25:45,560 On the Danube, and we fish carp, catfish, with a different type of net. 406 00:25:46,400 --> 00:25:48,520 And in September, on lakes. 407 00:25:48,600 --> 00:25:49,400 Thank you very much. 408 00:25:52,880 --> 00:25:55,560 Well I've got my three fish here 409 00:25:55,640 --> 00:25:57,560 and I'm going to take them to the collection point 410 00:25:57,640 --> 00:25:59,400 and see what they're worth... 411 00:26:00,880 --> 00:26:02,200 I suspect not a huge amount. 412 00:26:02,880 --> 00:26:04,000 FISH COLLECTION POINT 413 00:26:06,280 --> 00:26:09,200 Hello. How much is this fish? 414 00:26:11,560 --> 00:26:12,440 Not much, right? 415 00:26:13,680 --> 00:26:17,400 0,8 kg. 416 00:26:17,480 --> 00:26:19,920 -Ten Lei. -Ten Lei. 417 00:26:20,000 --> 00:26:23,720 Ten Lei. I think I will be taking these home in that case 418 00:26:23,800 --> 00:26:27,520 and cooking them back at base. 419 00:26:27,600 --> 00:26:28,680 Thank you. 420 00:26:29,800 --> 00:26:30,880 That was a waste of time. 421 00:26:33,000 --> 00:26:36,400 Although the fishing industry is the lifeblood of this community, 422 00:26:36,480 --> 00:26:40,320 tourism is providing a more and more tempting alternative 423 00:26:40,400 --> 00:26:44,840 to the early mornings and day to day existence of feast and famine. 424 00:26:44,920 --> 00:26:46,280 During the season, 425 00:26:46,360 --> 00:26:49,960 a procession of floating hotels converge from all over Europe, 426 00:26:50,720 --> 00:26:53,640 funneled down the Danube until they wind up here, 427 00:26:53,720 --> 00:26:56,440 unloading a steady stream of visitors, 428 00:26:56,520 --> 00:27:01,600 pockets laden, looking to commemorate the culmination of their two week cruise. 429 00:27:01,680 --> 00:27:02,720 So here is a thought. 430 00:27:03,480 --> 00:27:07,840 Big cruise ships come past Sfantul Gheorghe all the time 431 00:27:07,920 --> 00:27:10,800 with loads of tourists with loads of money 432 00:27:11,560 --> 00:27:13,920 and yet there's only one supermarket, a pharmacy 433 00:27:14,720 --> 00:27:16,560 and a kind of couple of restaurants 434 00:27:16,640 --> 00:27:18,200 although I'm not 100 percent sure about that 435 00:27:18,280 --> 00:27:20,840 and very little else. 436 00:27:20,920 --> 00:27:22,680 This town is missing a trick. 437 00:27:25,520 --> 00:27:30,920 You know that a community could benefit from some tourist development 438 00:27:31,000 --> 00:27:35,000 when one of the biggest shows in town is frogs mating. 439 00:27:41,800 --> 00:27:43,840 Round the corner at Green Village, it was time for lunch. 440 00:27:44,520 --> 00:27:46,600 So I collared head chef Sorin 441 00:27:46,680 --> 00:27:50,400 to show me two versions of Dobrogea's famous fish ciorba, 442 00:27:50,760 --> 00:27:53,840 the traditional recipe and his own off-piste variation. 443 00:27:54,520 --> 00:27:57,640 What I love about this sort of cooking is that it's so simple, 444 00:27:57,720 --> 00:28:00,240 you've got your tripod, you've got your cauldron, 445 00:28:00,320 --> 00:28:03,800 you've got your water and then you just need your ingredients. 446 00:28:03,160 --> 00:28:06,440 This is good food made with local produce: 447 00:28:06,520 --> 00:28:10,600 fish from the Danube and the vegetables from our garden and that's it. 448 00:28:10,680 --> 00:28:11,480 And that's it. 449 00:28:11,560 --> 00:28:14,680 I guess is easier to grow your own than it is to bring it all the way here. 450 00:28:14,760 --> 00:28:17,600 Yes, it is expensive to bring vegetables here. 451 00:28:19,000 --> 00:28:21,520 -Let me show you what we've got here. -OK. 452 00:28:21,600 --> 00:28:25,360 Tomato paste, we have catfish, a big one. 453 00:28:25,920 --> 00:28:28,560 -That's somn in Romanian. -Yes, somn. 454 00:28:28,640 --> 00:28:30,920 -Literally sleepy fish. -Lazy fish. 455 00:28:31,000 --> 00:28:34,880 'Cause they hang out on the bottom and eat what floats down. 456 00:28:36,000 --> 00:28:37,360 They grow quite big, don't they? 457 00:28:37,440 --> 00:28:42,440 -Yes, last year we had one 100kg -100 kg? 458 00:28:42,520 --> 00:28:44,240 That's larger than me. 459 00:28:44,840 --> 00:28:45,640 Almost like me. 460 00:28:45,720 --> 00:28:48,480 Almost as big as you. So what else? 461 00:28:48,560 --> 00:28:50,720 We've got the vegetables from our garden 462 00:28:50,800 --> 00:28:53,520 and here the vegetables for the traditional soup. 463 00:28:53,600 --> 00:28:54,800 And the head. 464 00:28:54,880 --> 00:28:56,840 Do we eat the head or is that just for decoration? 465 00:28:56,920 --> 00:28:59,760 We eat the head as well, alright. 466 00:28:59,840 --> 00:29:03,920 The traditional way to cook is to use the head and the tail for flavor. 467 00:29:04,000 --> 00:29:06,680 Nice, also the plan is that 468 00:29:06,760 --> 00:29:10,720 Anca is going to be cooking the traditional fish ciorba from here 469 00:29:11,400 --> 00:29:13,920 and Sorin, you are going to be doing your own version, aren't you? 470 00:29:14,000 --> 00:29:16,760 My own version, the same ingredients, with a twist. 471 00:29:16,840 --> 00:29:18,520 Which we will find out a little bit later. 472 00:29:18,600 --> 00:29:19,400 Yes. 473 00:29:19,480 --> 00:29:20,720 -OK, so proceed, please. -OK. 474 00:29:22,600 --> 00:29:24,840 I imagine it's quite hard to catch one of these things, isn't it? 475 00:29:24,920 --> 00:29:26,920 Cause I mean it might pull you in? 476 00:29:27,000 --> 00:29:29,400 Here you will not catch it with your line... 477 00:29:29,120 --> 00:29:30,920 with a boat and a big net... 478 00:29:31,000 --> 00:29:34,400 We will take the fish and put it in the boiling water. 479 00:29:34,120 --> 00:29:34,960 So far so good... 480 00:29:35,480 --> 00:29:36,320 We will put some oil. 481 00:29:37,800 --> 00:29:38,360 -Vegetable oil, yes? -Yes. 482 00:29:38,440 --> 00:29:41,840 You wouldn't use and olive oil, only vegetable oil. 483 00:29:41,920 --> 00:29:43,920 The same ingredients like the traditional ciorba. 484 00:29:44,000 --> 00:29:45,800 OK. 485 00:29:45,160 --> 00:29:49,520 Anca will start to make her own ciorba, the traditional way, 486 00:29:49,600 --> 00:29:53,320 onion, the peppers, in big pieces, not very small. 487 00:29:54,600 --> 00:29:58,320 She will put the potatoes and after this she will put the fish. 488 00:29:58,400 --> 00:30:01,240 A little bit of tomatoes, a little bit of vinegar. 489 00:30:01,320 --> 00:30:02,400 -And that's all. -And then we are done. 490 00:30:02,480 --> 00:30:05,360 OK. She's racing ahead, I better let you catch up. 491 00:30:05,440 --> 00:30:07,720 You're using pretty much the same vegetables... 492 00:30:08,400 --> 00:30:10,520 Just with parsley and the garlic. 493 00:30:11,200 --> 00:30:13,800 There are quite a few people from the village working 494 00:30:13,880 --> 00:30:14,920 here at Green Village, aren't they? 495 00:30:15,000 --> 00:30:17,720 Yes, almost thirty or forty people. 496 00:30:17,800 --> 00:30:22,360 It would be better for us and for them to be all from here. 497 00:30:22,440 --> 00:30:28,760 The fishing offers them the money without the commitment, 498 00:30:28,840 --> 00:30:31,480 but you here you have insurance, a pension. 499 00:30:32,600 --> 00:30:34,800 Part of them understand this and come to us. 500 00:30:34,880 --> 00:30:36,920 This is the real reason why I'm saying this 501 00:30:37,000 --> 00:30:39,600 because the population is getting older and older 502 00:30:39,680 --> 00:30:42,440 and people don't want to fish, the young generation, 503 00:30:42,520 --> 00:30:43,920 they want to leave, don't they? 504 00:30:44,000 --> 00:30:47,600 Yes because they don't understand that tourism here in Sfantul Gheorghe 505 00:30:47,680 --> 00:30:49,960 can give them a nice life. 506 00:30:51,400 --> 00:30:52,560 We will put the salt. 507 00:30:53,800 --> 00:30:56,120 A small handful of salt and that's black pepper, yes? 508 00:30:56,200 --> 00:30:58,160 Yes, black pepper, it will be a little bit spicy. 509 00:30:58,680 --> 00:31:00,400 After that we put some tomatoes. 510 00:31:00,480 --> 00:31:02,120 -Some tomatoes? -Yes. 511 00:31:02,200 --> 00:31:03,520 That's quite a lot of tomatoes. 512 00:31:04,400 --> 00:31:08,680 But this is not a paste this is your own chopped tomatoes? 513 00:31:08,760 --> 00:31:10,120 Yes, chopped tomatoes. 514 00:31:10,200 --> 00:31:11,840 Yes is starting to disintegrate a bit. 515 00:31:12,520 --> 00:31:14,920 I'm getting more and more hungry watching this. 516 00:31:15,600 --> 00:31:18,880 How long ideally would you want to let the soup cook for? 517 00:31:18,960 --> 00:31:20,800 One or two hours. 518 00:31:20,160 --> 00:31:21,920 Let it cook while you pitch your tent. 519 00:31:22,000 --> 00:31:25,000 Take your palinca and after that you eat. 520 00:31:25,800 --> 00:31:26,520 Forget about it for a while and then come back. 521 00:31:26,600 --> 00:31:28,760 -Cheers! -Cheers! 522 00:31:32,240 --> 00:31:33,320 Life is better now. 523 00:31:33,400 --> 00:31:35,120 -Life is always better after a palinca. -Yeah. 524 00:31:37,800 --> 00:31:40,120 Well, since we've made enough to feed 5,000 people 525 00:31:40,200 --> 00:31:43,720 I thought we better have the whole team and guys you are going to be tasters 526 00:31:43,800 --> 00:31:45,480 so we can compare and contrast. 527 00:31:46,440 --> 00:31:48,120 Thanks very much Sorin. Thank you Anca. 528 00:31:48,200 --> 00:31:49,520 -You are welcome. -Bon appetite. 529 00:31:49,600 --> 00:31:50,720 -Thank you. -Enjoy. 530 00:31:53,600 --> 00:31:57,920 Sorin that's really good it's like a lobster bisque. 531 00:31:58,000 --> 00:31:59,320 I don't know how you've managed to achieve that 532 00:31:59,400 --> 00:32:00,400 without the use of seafood. 533 00:32:00,480 --> 00:32:04,920 Yes, I've managed to do this with catfish, garlic and some herbs. 534 00:32:05,000 --> 00:32:07,600 But it does taste like a crab or lobster. 535 00:32:07,680 --> 00:32:09,920 Almost the same taste. 536 00:32:10,000 --> 00:32:11,760 I'm slightly reluctant to part with this one 537 00:32:11,840 --> 00:32:14,240 but I'll do you a swap. 538 00:32:16,720 --> 00:32:21,240 The traditional soup is a bit more watery and stronger flavour of the vegetables, 539 00:32:21,320 --> 00:32:22,920 but it's extremely nice. 540 00:32:23,000 --> 00:32:25,160 Anca, congratulations, thank you! 541 00:32:25,680 --> 00:32:28,000 OK, there's just one thing missing, excuse me a moment. 542 00:32:30,000 --> 00:32:32,720 Well, you did said it was traditional didn't you so. 543 00:32:32,800 --> 00:32:34,960 In for a penny, in for a palinca! 544 00:32:35,400 --> 00:32:35,840 You understand the tradition. 545 00:32:35,920 --> 00:32:37,880 I do, I'm learning the tradition very quickly. 546 00:32:37,960 --> 00:32:38,760 Cheers! 547 00:32:38,840 --> 00:32:43,240 To Sfantul Gheorge, to the Danube Delta and to hospitality, 548 00:32:43,320 --> 00:32:46,600 and thank you to the team for making it all look so beautiful. 549 00:32:46,680 --> 00:32:49,280 It's not a difficult job this bit, really... 550 00:32:49,360 --> 00:32:51,560 -It's quite easy. -It's very easy. 551 00:32:51,640 --> 00:32:52,440 Cheers! 552 00:32:54,000 --> 00:32:58,240 Hard as it was to say goodbye to this wet and wonderful corner of Romania 553 00:32:59,000 --> 00:33:00,480 it was time to venture south 554 00:33:00,560 --> 00:33:04,400 to explore one of the more commercial regions of the country 555 00:33:04,120 --> 00:33:06,760 and experience a bit of Black Sea beach culture. 556 00:33:08,200 --> 00:33:13,800 The south eastern tip of Romania is full of large seaside resorts, 557 00:33:13,160 --> 00:33:15,600 many of which date back to the Communist era. 558 00:33:16,960 --> 00:33:21,280 Hugging the shoreline you pass towering hotel and apartment complexes 559 00:33:21,360 --> 00:33:23,280 with Olympian names, 560 00:33:23,360 --> 00:33:26,600 but my destination is a counter culture cul de sac 561 00:33:26,680 --> 00:33:28,520 close to the Bulgarian boarder. 562 00:33:36,200 --> 00:33:39,760 A few miles from passport control and you reach Vama Veche, 563 00:33:39,840 --> 00:33:42,800 the hippy capital of Romania, 564 00:33:42,160 --> 00:33:46,320 where beach bars vie with seafood restaurants and rock cafes. 565 00:33:47,320 --> 00:33:49,680 This is a place that exudes cool. 566 00:33:50,840 --> 00:33:54,400 People from all over Europe come here in their thousands 567 00:33:54,120 --> 00:33:57,200 for the antithesis to the euro trash club scene. 568 00:33:58,400 --> 00:34:00,880 The main street is filled with hawkers and buskers 569 00:34:00,960 --> 00:34:04,920 and stalls selling bracelets, t-shirts and memorabilia. 570 00:34:05,760 --> 00:34:08,800 The seafront like everywhere has deckchairs for rent, 571 00:34:08,880 --> 00:34:12,120 but it's low key, without the obvious VIP areas. 572 00:34:16,160 --> 00:34:18,440 This is much more my cup of tea. 573 00:34:18,520 --> 00:34:22,200 Relaxed, a little bit hippy, live music, creativity, 574 00:34:23,000 --> 00:34:25,520 laid back beach, volleyball, yeah. 575 00:34:26,160 --> 00:34:27,400 Vama Veche is quite cool. 576 00:34:55,720 --> 00:34:58,720 After an evening checking out the sites, and hitting the bars 577 00:34:58,800 --> 00:35:00,720 you might feel in need of a detox. 578 00:35:01,760 --> 00:35:04,280 Luckily, there is a lake on the way back north 579 00:35:04,360 --> 00:35:07,920 that provides the perfect antidote to a night out on the tiles. 580 00:35:08,800 --> 00:35:11,840 Lake Techirghiol is renowned for its healing mud. 581 00:35:11,920 --> 00:35:15,240 A composite of Jurassic sea life and rich silt. 582 00:35:15,320 --> 00:35:19,400 It derives its name from the story of blind crippled old man called Tekir 583 00:35:19,480 --> 00:35:21,400 and his ailing donkey, 584 00:35:21,120 --> 00:35:22,480 who once stopped here 585 00:35:22,560 --> 00:35:24,680 and were mysteriously healed of their afflictions. 586 00:35:34,760 --> 00:35:36,960 According to exhaustive research, 587 00:35:37,400 --> 00:35:39,360 sapropelic mud is good for a number of things, 588 00:35:39,440 --> 00:35:41,920 it's great for skin complaints like eczema, 589 00:35:42,000 --> 00:35:44,720 it also rejuvenates the elasticity of the skin, 590 00:35:44,800 --> 00:35:47,920 it's been suggested that it can even be an alternative form of energy 591 00:35:48,000 --> 00:35:51,240 and of course it contributes to the well-being of the organism, 592 00:35:51,320 --> 00:35:53,400 which in this case is yours truly. 593 00:36:00,280 --> 00:36:01,520 Slight technical error. 594 00:36:01,600 --> 00:36:05,800 The mud appears to be at the bottom of the lake right out in the middle 595 00:36:05,160 --> 00:36:07,600 so I can't exactly go and jump in it. 596 00:36:07,680 --> 00:36:09,840 Luckily though for us they are selling it. 597 00:36:11,280 --> 00:36:12,320 Cheers. 598 00:36:14,640 --> 00:36:15,760 Smells a bit fishy. 599 00:36:16,600 --> 00:36:20,920 Not really relishing the idea of rubbing this all over my body, but when in Rome... 600 00:36:40,400 --> 00:36:43,720 Now all I have to do is wait for half an hour 601 00:36:44,840 --> 00:36:45,760 and go in the water. 602 00:36:46,600 --> 00:36:49,680 I feel it actually drying as I'm speaking. 603 00:36:50,600 --> 00:36:52,000 It's tightening up the skin. 604 00:36:52,800 --> 00:36:53,200 It's quite an interesting effect 605 00:36:53,280 --> 00:36:55,840 it's like having a piece of elastic band or something 606 00:36:55,920 --> 00:36:57,360 constricting your skin. 607 00:37:00,120 --> 00:37:01,160 I'm walking like this again. 608 00:37:06,400 --> 00:37:07,200 Not sure about this. 609 00:37:22,360 --> 00:37:25,240 Well, I think that was about 20 minutes, 610 00:37:26,880 --> 00:37:28,280 all right let's see if I can get this off. 611 00:37:32,520 --> 00:37:34,280 After a quick rinse off in the lake 612 00:37:34,360 --> 00:37:36,960 as there are no showers and I wouldn't recommend the toilets, 613 00:37:37,480 --> 00:37:41,360 it was time to head north for one final stop on my Dobrogea odyssey; 614 00:37:42,400 --> 00:37:45,520 a rendezvous with friend and media pundit Dani Otil 615 00:37:45,600 --> 00:37:49,520 at the ancient Greek ruin of Histria, another historic outpost 616 00:37:49,600 --> 00:37:52,880 stranded from the black sea by the shifting sands of the Danube. 617 00:37:54,120 --> 00:37:58,680 This thriving community once covered 60 hectares, now, as with Argamum, 618 00:37:58,760 --> 00:38:00,160 only a small section of it 619 00:38:00,240 --> 00:38:02,200 has been reclaimed from coastal grasslands. 620 00:38:03,520 --> 00:38:04,840 It nevertheless remains 621 00:38:04,920 --> 00:38:07,880 one of the most important archaeological sites in Romania. 622 00:38:16,520 --> 00:38:18,200 So how came you are walking like a cowboy? 623 00:38:18,280 --> 00:38:19,800 Yeah... 624 00:38:20,160 --> 00:38:21,160 I think that's probably because 625 00:38:21,240 --> 00:38:23,400 I've been driving the bike for about seven hours yesterday 626 00:38:23,120 --> 00:38:26,400 and you get this sort of John Wayne-itis. 627 00:38:26,480 --> 00:38:28,920 -So you've never been here before? -Never been here before. 628 00:38:29,760 --> 00:38:33,120 It's amazing to think this was a thriving city for over a millennium, 629 00:38:33,200 --> 00:38:35,400 there were 37,000 people living here. 630 00:38:35,480 --> 00:38:38,240 And there are so many sites like this you know across Romania, 631 00:38:38,320 --> 00:38:39,680 a lot of them are just ignored. 632 00:38:39,760 --> 00:38:42,600 I mean this place has only just popped up on the tourist map. 633 00:38:42,680 --> 00:38:46,000 Histria you know a year or two ago had no-one visiting it. 634 00:38:46,800 --> 00:38:47,640 And no-one protecting it. 635 00:38:47,720 --> 00:38:49,480 Yes and I'm the barometer, 636 00:38:49,560 --> 00:38:54,440 I'm 37 and I found out stuff about this place from you 637 00:38:54,520 --> 00:38:56,840 and from the guys here today, that's a pity. 638 00:38:56,920 --> 00:38:59,840 And there's so much patrimony, so much heritage in Romania, 639 00:38:59,920 --> 00:39:03,480 I think that just gets ignored or left and it's not being saved, 640 00:39:03,560 --> 00:39:04,640 it's not being protected. 641 00:39:04,720 --> 00:39:08,800 It's like you have this really, really nice bike 642 00:39:08,160 --> 00:39:11,800 and you never use it but you go on foot everywhere. 643 00:39:11,880 --> 00:39:15,560 Do you think that this is to do with the lack of interest 644 00:39:15,640 --> 00:39:17,240 on behalf of everyone in the country, 645 00:39:17,320 --> 00:39:19,760 they don't care about the patrimony or do you think as I do 646 00:39:19,840 --> 00:39:22,760 that it's just the fact that the Government make no funds available 647 00:39:22,840 --> 00:39:24,880 to actually protect iconic buildings? 648 00:39:24,960 --> 00:39:28,760 I think the last 50 years affected us 649 00:39:28,840 --> 00:39:31,680 and we are not that interested in art, culture, 650 00:39:31,760 --> 00:39:35,000 and we care less and less about that 651 00:39:35,800 --> 00:39:39,920 and more and more about what we eat and what we drink and where we sleep 652 00:39:40,440 --> 00:39:45,680 and unfortunately the new wave comes, but it comes really slow. 653 00:39:46,200 --> 00:39:49,840 I have people around me that care about that 654 00:39:49,920 --> 00:39:53,400 but they don't have the power still or yet. 655 00:39:53,480 --> 00:39:55,360 And Ceausescu convinced people 656 00:39:55,440 --> 00:39:58,320 that concrete and cement and straight lines was a sign of power. 657 00:39:58,400 --> 00:39:59,800 That's a hard thing to shake off. 658 00:39:59,880 --> 00:40:04,440 People still think that living in an old house is somehow uninvolved. 659 00:40:04,520 --> 00:40:06,720 That's true, my parents for sure believed that, 660 00:40:07,400 --> 00:40:10,480 maybe half of me believed that until ten years ago. 661 00:40:11,160 --> 00:40:16,000 If you can involve money or business in these areas, 662 00:40:16,680 --> 00:40:20,960 if one or two communities start to make money from this 663 00:40:21,640 --> 00:40:23,680 I think everybody is going to wake up and say, 664 00:40:23,760 --> 00:40:27,760 "Hey we have this in the back of our yard, let's do the same like those." 665 00:40:28,280 --> 00:40:29,480 But you've got to do it in the right way, 666 00:40:29,560 --> 00:40:30,800 that's the key thing. 667 00:40:30,880 --> 00:40:34,360 Let's face it, a six story concrete pension next to this place 668 00:40:34,440 --> 00:40:37,360 because then people can then come and stay and see Histria will ruin it. 669 00:40:37,440 --> 00:40:40,640 And that's a major problem cause it means again cultural tourists 670 00:40:40,720 --> 00:40:41,800 who are the ones with the money 671 00:40:41,880 --> 00:40:44,480 won't want to go and see these places any longer cause they'll be ugly. 672 00:40:45,160 --> 00:40:47,440 There is a hope I just talked to one of my friends 673 00:40:47,520 --> 00:40:50,520 that is a really, really young business man, 674 00:40:50,600 --> 00:40:51,720 he just told me 675 00:40:51,800 --> 00:40:55,680 he wants to make some traditional houses in the North of the country 676 00:40:55,760 --> 00:40:57,840 and make a small village there. 677 00:40:57,920 --> 00:41:00,160 So him, his partner, 678 00:41:00,240 --> 00:41:05,320 maybe 50 guys like him can bring back the hope. 679 00:41:05,400 --> 00:41:09,160 Maybe if we can do this shooting in 50 years from now 680 00:41:09,960 --> 00:41:12,200 we can have some conclusions, 681 00:41:12,280 --> 00:41:16,920 otherwise, right now, we are on really thin ice, 682 00:41:17,000 --> 00:41:18,680 because this is not going to stay here. 683 00:41:21,520 --> 00:41:22,920 Look at this mosaic, 684 00:41:23,000 --> 00:41:28,800 this is 2600 years old and we are allowed to walk all over it. 685 00:41:28,880 --> 00:41:32,120 I mean that shouldn't even be a walkway there, 686 00:41:32,200 --> 00:41:36,480 that should be sealed off and this should be under that much glass. 687 00:41:36,560 --> 00:41:39,480 In Rome you always see glass and you walk on the glass. 688 00:41:39,560 --> 00:41:42,840 In any other country this would be completely protected 689 00:41:42,920 --> 00:41:45,880 and look at it here, it's just falling to pieces. 690 00:41:45,960 --> 00:41:46,880 Now I feel bad. Let's go. 691 00:41:46,960 --> 00:41:49,880 Let's go I know we're walking on it. We should... gingerly, but carefully. 692 00:41:49,960 --> 00:41:53,320 A thousand people are going to come maybe this year here. 693 00:41:53,400 --> 00:41:55,840 OK, so if you do come here, please don't walk on this. 694 00:42:15,640 --> 00:42:19,760 One of the ways that you could bring visitors to a place like this of course 695 00:42:19,840 --> 00:42:25,600 is to hold a celebration of the old traditions. 696 00:42:27,600 --> 00:42:32,160 Of course this would be qualified as domestic abuse in today's modern age. 697 00:42:32,240 --> 00:42:33,720 In today's modern age. 698 00:42:34,600 --> 00:42:38,160 Bravo! I think we do this don't we? She can live. 699 00:42:38,240 --> 00:42:39,400 No, this. 700 00:42:43,600 --> 00:42:45,640 Do you think they do this at home? 701 00:42:45,720 --> 00:42:46,960 No. 702 00:42:47,480 --> 00:42:52,120 I think he is with the potatoes and she's... 703 00:42:53,600 --> 00:42:55,120 This is quite a workout. 704 00:42:55,200 --> 00:42:58,560 This gets you fit, right? Very fit. 705 00:42:59,640 --> 00:43:02,720 I've noticed you've got scars is this from...? 706 00:43:02,800 --> 00:43:04,400 Yes. 707 00:43:04,120 --> 00:43:04,920 Or is that alright? 708 00:43:05,000 --> 00:43:07,520 -That looks sore, is that OK? -It's OK. 709 00:43:07,600 --> 00:43:10,200 Right. You just have to operate on the basis 710 00:43:10,280 --> 00:43:12,320 that they are not actually going to stab you in the face. 711 00:43:12,400 --> 00:43:14,720 I work with my face, you work with your voice. 712 00:43:14,800 --> 00:43:17,440 Yes, this is true, I need my face less than you do. 713 00:43:17,520 --> 00:43:18,320 Yeah. 714 00:43:22,360 --> 00:43:25,120 You see, you flinched. 715 00:43:25,200 --> 00:43:27,400 Me? No. Not at all. 716 00:43:29,000 --> 00:43:30,920 Yeah, true... See you in 50 years, man. 717 00:43:31,000 --> 00:43:32,520 Yes it's already catching up on me. 718 00:43:35,000 --> 00:43:36,960 -Bravo! -Thank you! 719 00:43:38,760 --> 00:43:42,280 Join us next time as I drive north to explore Moldova, 720 00:43:42,360 --> 00:43:44,360 where I'll be seeing how wine tourism 721 00:43:44,440 --> 00:43:48,480 is providing a tempting alternative to traditional attractions. 722 00:43:48,560 --> 00:43:52,440 Plus we will be visiting the historic city of Iasi, 723 00:43:52,520 --> 00:43:54,840 perusing ancient castles, 724 00:43:54,920 --> 00:43:57,240 learning more fabulous local recipes 725 00:43:57,320 --> 00:44:00,400 and experiencing another less promoted area 726 00:44:00,120 --> 00:44:03,400 of this largely undiscovered country. 727 00:44:03,120 --> 00:44:06,440 All that and more in Flavours Of Romania.