1 00:00:03,240 --> 00:00:06,280 Romania is a land of a thousand faces. 2 00:00:13,880 --> 00:00:17,160 The crossing point between the Occident and the Orient, 3 00:00:17,240 --> 00:00:19,960 and a melting pot of different cultures. 4 00:00:21,960 --> 00:00:26,440 It is also a country unlike any other in Europe. 5 00:00:26,520 --> 00:00:30,720 With over 60 percent of the Carpathian Mountains weaving through it, 6 00:00:30,800 --> 00:00:36,120 Romania is the custodian of Europe's last great wilderness area, 7 00:00:36,200 --> 00:00:39,120 its largest remaining forest, 8 00:00:39,200 --> 00:00:42,240 and two thirds of its surviving alpha predators. 9 00:00:45,640 --> 00:00:50,520 But increasingly this unique country's natural and cultural heritage 10 00:00:50,600 --> 00:00:53,960 is under threat from reckless development 11 00:00:54,400 --> 00:00:55,560 and a race to modernise, 12 00:00:55,640 --> 00:01:00,360 which is often destroying the very things that could ensure prosperity 13 00:01:00,440 --> 00:01:03,640 and a sustainable livelihood for generations to come. 14 00:01:07,480 --> 00:01:11,560 Welcome back to our eight part road trip of Romania's historic regions, 15 00:01:11,640 --> 00:01:17,120 in which we discover fabulous treasures, natural wonders, medieval marvels, 16 00:01:17,200 --> 00:01:18,720 mouthwatering dishes, 17 00:01:18,800 --> 00:01:20,520 and meet the people that make this 18 00:01:20,600 --> 00:01:23,880 one of the warmest and most hospitable nations in the world. 19 00:01:26,840 --> 00:01:30,200 We will also be finding out how this hugely misunderstood country 20 00:01:30,280 --> 00:01:32,640 is emerging from post-Communist chaos 21 00:01:33,400 --> 00:01:36,520 and identifying some of the challenges it faces 22 00:01:36,600 --> 00:01:40,480 and how tourism could provide one of its best hopes for the future. 23 00:02:04,440 --> 00:02:07,880 Thank you for being here with us for the final leg of the journey, 24 00:02:07,960 --> 00:02:11,320 as we reach the land of the beech trees or Bucovina. 25 00:02:14,160 --> 00:02:16,000 Famed for its painted churches, 26 00:02:16,800 --> 00:02:19,800 this is a region that's replete with ancient monuments. 27 00:02:22,240 --> 00:02:25,840 Like the Maramures, its people are proud of their history, 28 00:02:26,520 --> 00:02:29,880 and realise the benefits of celebrating time-honoured customs, 29 00:02:31,000 --> 00:02:33,160 and even inventing a few new ones. 30 00:02:35,800 --> 00:02:38,200 Perhaps the best example of a small community doing just this, 31 00:02:38,760 --> 00:02:41,280 is the village of Ciocanesti, near Vatra Dornei, 32 00:02:41,360 --> 00:02:45,360 which has become internationally famous for two local traditions, 33 00:02:45,440 --> 00:02:48,680 that are attracting visitors from across Romania and beyond. 34 00:02:50,840 --> 00:02:52,600 The first of these can be seen 35 00:02:52,680 --> 00:02:56,800 in the décor of every house that lines the village streets, 36 00:02:56,160 --> 00:02:59,200 winding lazily along the banks of the Bistrita River. 37 00:03:01,320 --> 00:03:04,600 The idea was conceived by local resident Leontina Taran, 38 00:03:05,320 --> 00:03:08,440 who decided to adorn her house with original motifs, 39 00:03:08,520 --> 00:03:12,320 borrowed from embroidered folk costumes and painted Easter Eggs. 40 00:03:14,440 --> 00:03:15,280 Since then, 41 00:03:15,360 --> 00:03:19,240 it has become almost mandatory for everyone else in the community 42 00:03:19,320 --> 00:03:23,920 to follow suit, making it today the most colourful village in Romania. 43 00:03:29,520 --> 00:03:33,960 This creativity of design can also be seen in the town's Easter Egg Museum, 44 00:03:34,720 --> 00:03:36,880 which has specimens dating back decades. 45 00:03:37,560 --> 00:03:41,200 Thankfully, most of them, particularly the old ones, 46 00:03:41,280 --> 00:03:43,120 are safely behind glass. 47 00:03:43,200 --> 00:03:47,000 Not only are these eggs very beautifully intricately designed, 48 00:03:47,800 --> 00:03:51,800 but also they are very old, in many cases between 40 and 100 years, 49 00:03:52,800 --> 00:03:55,360 which means they should be handled with extreme caution, 50 00:03:55,440 --> 00:03:56,680 because they are all still full. 51 00:03:57,440 --> 00:03:58,880 Not something you'd want to drop. 52 00:04:00,800 --> 00:04:03,520 Another great reason to come here, to Ciocanesti, 53 00:04:03,600 --> 00:04:05,920 is for its annual weekend Trout Festival, 54 00:04:06,600 --> 00:04:09,920 which just happened to be starting as we were passing through. 55 00:04:14,960 --> 00:04:15,920 Yamaharleys! 56 00:04:19,120 --> 00:04:21,920 Proceedings kick off with a church service, 57 00:04:22,000 --> 00:04:24,960 at one of the less accessible local monasteries, 58 00:04:25,400 --> 00:04:27,440 Sfanta Cruce in the Suhardului Mountains. 59 00:04:27,960 --> 00:04:29,800 In the old days, 60 00:04:29,160 --> 00:04:31,600 people used to make the pilgrimage up here on foot, 61 00:04:31,680 --> 00:04:36,200 but now most insist on driving, which doesn't always work. 62 00:04:38,680 --> 00:04:40,280 This could be interesting. 63 00:04:42,720 --> 00:04:43,920 Come on. 64 00:04:44,000 --> 00:04:45,920 Oh, the wheels are struggling. 65 00:04:47,560 --> 00:04:49,880 Oh, it's not going to make it! 66 00:04:49,960 --> 00:04:51,000 He's made it! 67 00:04:55,200 --> 00:04:56,400 Once the service was over, 68 00:04:56,480 --> 00:04:57,920 we walked the last few hundred meters 69 00:04:58,000 --> 00:05:00,640 to a shepherd's cabin overlooking the valleys 70 00:05:01,200 --> 00:05:03,760 where a hearty breakfast was being served. 71 00:05:06,680 --> 00:05:10,480 Some people walk the whole way up. I must confess I've cheated slightly, 72 00:05:10,560 --> 00:05:12,360 but hey, what a view! 73 00:05:13,000 --> 00:05:16,880 Those mountains and the layers of blue, each one a slightly different shade, 74 00:05:17,480 --> 00:05:18,880 it's like an oil painting. 75 00:05:29,960 --> 00:05:31,520 It's a simple but perfect breakfast: 76 00:05:32,240 --> 00:05:35,520 two types of local cheese, some bread and a fresh onion. 77 00:05:35,600 --> 00:05:37,160 It's almost a sacrament. 78 00:05:39,640 --> 00:05:40,560 This is fantastic, 79 00:05:40,640 --> 00:05:44,480 the preparation and the effort to create this banquet on the top of the mountain. 80 00:05:45,720 --> 00:05:48,440 This is the second course, lamb and vegetable soup. 81 00:05:52,600 --> 00:05:55,160 After breakfast it was time to go back down to Ciocanesti, 82 00:05:55,720 --> 00:05:59,400 to perform the symbolic and very practical ritual 83 00:05:59,120 --> 00:06:00,680 of restocking the river, 84 00:06:00,760 --> 00:06:04,840 by releasing bucket loads of baby trout into their natural environment. 85 00:06:04,920 --> 00:06:08,280 -UK, yeah, absolutely. -You are pretty excited about this. 86 00:06:08,360 --> 00:06:10,640 I am very excited about this, absolutely. Yeah. 87 00:06:11,520 --> 00:06:13,600 It was a rare honour to be asked to help. 88 00:06:15,960 --> 00:06:16,760 Thank you. 89 00:06:22,920 --> 00:06:23,720 Go! 90 00:06:24,720 --> 00:06:25,800 Thank you. 91 00:06:25,880 --> 00:06:26,680 Thank you. 92 00:06:27,560 --> 00:06:28,920 I don't know if this constitutes 93 00:06:29,000 --> 00:06:31,280 a fraction of the trout that we are eating at the festival, 94 00:06:31,360 --> 00:06:34,760 but it's a beautiful symbol and a gesture and it's lovely to see, 95 00:06:34,840 --> 00:06:36,960 fish going into the river instead of coming out. 96 00:06:38,160 --> 00:06:39,280 The Bistrita river 97 00:06:39,360 --> 00:06:42,800 has always had a huge influence on the life of the community here, 98 00:06:43,520 --> 00:06:46,960 not just as a food source, but also occasionally as a threat, 99 00:06:47,640 --> 00:06:50,880 when after heavy rainfall or snowmelt, it bursts its banks. 100 00:06:51,920 --> 00:06:56,680 Maybe this is why another highlight of the festival is a raft race, 101 00:06:56,760 --> 00:07:02,480 or river safari that starts a few miles upstream and come hell or low water, 102 00:07:02,560 --> 00:07:06,440 floats and sometimes drags its way back down to Ciocanesti. 103 00:07:07,680 --> 00:07:11,560 In the old days, the river was sometimes used to transport timber, 104 00:07:11,640 --> 00:07:13,520 but given the current water levels 105 00:07:13,600 --> 00:07:17,760 there was some doubt as to whether the rafts would actually manage to float, 106 00:07:18,320 --> 00:07:21,560 especially with the increasing popularity of this event. 107 00:07:23,800 --> 00:07:26,320 This is an interesting situation. There are so many people, 108 00:07:26,400 --> 00:07:29,280 the river is very shallow and there are more people coming all the time. 109 00:07:29,360 --> 00:07:30,920 The logs are pretty heavy, 110 00:07:31,000 --> 00:07:34,800 and they're clearly not going anywhere without a push, 111 00:07:34,160 --> 00:07:35,680 which is why we have a tractor. 112 00:07:35,760 --> 00:07:38,280 Still I'll believe it when I see it. Should be a lot of fun. 113 00:07:38,800 --> 00:07:40,320 With a little bit of help, 114 00:07:40,400 --> 00:07:43,720 the entourage set forth, scraping their way downstream. 115 00:07:44,400 --> 00:07:48,800 But no-one seemed particularly worried about running aground. 116 00:07:48,160 --> 00:07:49,360 The remarkable thing is 117 00:07:49,440 --> 00:07:54,920 that locals, their families and complete strangers all muck in, laugh, 118 00:07:55,000 --> 00:07:59,560 and participate in a fun, ridiculous and colourful tradition, 119 00:07:59,640 --> 00:08:03,600 that apart from being hilarious to watch, helps bring people together. 120 00:08:04,920 --> 00:08:07,680 OK, so, we've hit another hurdle. 121 00:08:07,760 --> 00:08:09,720 I think he's gotta go round to the back and push, 122 00:08:09,800 --> 00:08:13,600 because obviously the tractor is not going to get to the bridge. 123 00:08:13,680 --> 00:08:19,320 But I love the spirit of perseverance. No problem is insurmountable. 124 00:08:25,320 --> 00:08:29,680 It celebrates the values of a community that're not only proud of their heritage, 125 00:08:29,760 --> 00:08:31,920 but happy to share it with outsiders. 126 00:08:33,720 --> 00:08:38,800 This sense of solidarity and fun is why hoards of people come to Ciocanesti, 127 00:08:38,600 --> 00:08:40,320 and spend their summer holidays here. 128 00:08:41,240 --> 00:08:44,000 It is a success story that is without parallel. 129 00:08:44,800 --> 00:08:48,120 A small village that, thanks to its appreciation of the old traditions, 130 00:08:48,200 --> 00:08:53,560 is not only flourishing but has now achieved Unesco World Heritage Status, 131 00:08:53,640 --> 00:08:57,120 and become another highlight of any trip to Bucovina. 132 00:08:59,560 --> 00:09:02,560 Back in town, visitors are starting to arrive, 133 00:09:02,640 --> 00:09:07,680 in anticipation of music, dancing, palinca and everything trout. 134 00:09:11,240 --> 00:09:14,800 Meantime, in a small monastery, up another very steep hill, 135 00:09:15,320 --> 00:09:18,320 a brand new never seen before recipe for trout ciorba 136 00:09:18,400 --> 00:09:21,640 is being prepared to commemorate the festivities. 137 00:09:21,720 --> 00:09:24,560 I was fortunate enough to be allowed to observe! 138 00:09:24,640 --> 00:09:25,640 -Glad to meet you! -Welcome! 139 00:09:25,720 --> 00:09:27,680 -This is our kitchen. -I love it! 140 00:09:27,760 --> 00:09:30,640 We've invented this soup because we don't eat meat, 141 00:09:30,720 --> 00:09:33,880 and we've changed meat with fresh fish. 142 00:09:33,960 --> 00:09:38,720 I imagine it must be quite a challenge coming up with new recipes. 143 00:09:38,800 --> 00:09:43,520 It's a new recipe from all this region, 144 00:09:43,600 --> 00:09:48,720 because in Romania the traditional recipes they are old. 145 00:09:49,280 --> 00:09:54,800 Here we have water, carrot first, the whole one, onions, please. 146 00:09:55,600 --> 00:09:56,640 Again, straight in. 147 00:09:57,400 --> 00:10:00,840 Straight in with the yellow ones. And the reds we cut them. 148 00:10:00,920 --> 00:10:02,400 You chop them. 149 00:10:02,120 --> 00:10:08,760 Here on the top of the mountains in Bucovina it's pure Romania. 150 00:10:08,840 --> 00:10:14,440 We invite all the people that come here to have lunch with us. 151 00:10:14,520 --> 00:10:18,920 -So just straight in? -It's your turn. 152 00:10:20,320 --> 00:10:24,640 Let's start with porcini, we call them hribi. 153 00:10:24,720 --> 00:10:26,680 Chopped porcini. 154 00:10:26,760 --> 00:10:33,120 They need to fry a little bit. Next I want the smoked fish. 155 00:10:36,200 --> 00:10:40,240 -Yeah. So in they go. -Put it in. OK. 156 00:10:41,280 --> 00:10:43,520 It's important to season right now. 157 00:10:44,560 --> 00:10:46,600 So this is the base of the soup, if you'd like? 158 00:10:46,680 --> 00:10:52,160 -This would be a very nice pasta dish. -Yeah, you're right. 159 00:10:52,240 --> 00:10:54,840 You know if you were to have this, 160 00:10:54,920 --> 00:10:57,440 just have it as it is with penne or spaghetti. 161 00:10:58,560 --> 00:10:59,800 Everything out, yes? 162 00:10:59,880 --> 00:11:05,400 Yes. We chop the carrot and put it in for the colour. 163 00:11:05,120 --> 00:11:10,440 -OK, for the color, nice. -We can start the final stage. 164 00:11:10,520 --> 00:11:13,160 -Fresh unpasteurized cream. -Yes. 165 00:11:14,240 --> 00:11:15,480 I can help with this. 166 00:11:16,640 --> 00:11:19,280 You like it? Look at the color. 167 00:11:19,360 --> 00:11:20,720 Beautiful. 168 00:11:20,800 --> 00:11:23,000 -OK. More? -More... 169 00:11:26,360 --> 00:11:29,400 And this stops the egg from solidifying? 170 00:11:29,480 --> 00:11:33,200 -Yeah, to not be scrambled eggs. -Yes. Precisely. 171 00:11:35,800 --> 00:11:36,600 -It's OK? -It's OK. 172 00:11:39,800 --> 00:11:40,600 It's not finished yet. 173 00:11:40,680 --> 00:11:44,640 No. But it smells absolutely wonderful. 174 00:11:44,720 --> 00:11:47,800 Yeah, tell me quick. What next? 175 00:11:47,160 --> 00:11:49,920 -Garlic and lemon juice. -Right! 176 00:11:51,440 --> 00:11:52,920 It must be difficult at the weekends, 177 00:11:53,000 --> 00:11:58,480 when you have visitors coming to share your services, 178 00:11:58,560 --> 00:12:02,160 because you never know how many people you are cooking food for. 179 00:12:02,240 --> 00:12:06,240 -We ask God. It's very easy. -Usually, you get it right. 180 00:12:06,320 --> 00:12:07,640 -Yes. -OK. 181 00:12:07,720 --> 00:12:08,920 I think it's done. 182 00:12:09,000 --> 00:12:12,800 Yeah. Hurray! It's worth a wait! 183 00:12:12,880 --> 00:12:14,960 -Without patience... -...you can do nothing. 184 00:12:15,400 --> 00:12:16,240 You can do nothing, yeah. 185 00:12:16,320 --> 00:12:17,760 Please taste it. 186 00:12:17,840 --> 00:12:22,200 Really good, all the ingredients, all the garlic compliments 187 00:12:22,280 --> 00:12:26,400 the smoked fish and the salt is fine, cause it's absorbed, 188 00:12:26,480 --> 00:12:29,520 it's not too salty but, you've got a nice edge to it. 189 00:12:29,600 --> 00:12:31,280 Hail, Father, Son and Holy Ghost, 190 00:12:31,360 --> 00:12:32,920 both now and ever, and unto the ages of ages. 191 00:12:33,000 --> 00:12:35,280 Have mercy on us, Lord... 192 00:12:35,360 --> 00:12:38,160 Jesus, bless our food and Thy servants, 193 00:12:38,240 --> 00:12:40,240 both now and ever, and unto the ages of ages. 194 00:12:40,320 --> 00:12:41,400 -Amen! -Amen! 195 00:12:41,480 --> 00:12:42,760 -Enjoy! -Thank you! 196 00:12:43,600 --> 00:12:46,680 I have to say we've tried a lot of soups going around Romania, 197 00:12:46,760 --> 00:12:49,920 and the one in the Danube Delta was pretty amazing, 198 00:12:50,000 --> 00:12:53,520 but this is, on our last episode, in Bucovina, 199 00:12:53,600 --> 00:12:56,000 the best soup I've had in the country, 200 00:12:56,800 --> 00:12:57,280 so thank you so much, 201 00:12:57,360 --> 00:12:59,600 I think this recipe is really going to catch on. 202 00:13:00,200 --> 00:13:03,440 You can take the ceaun with you in UK. 203 00:13:03,520 --> 00:13:07,280 Yeah, I'll... See you! 204 00:13:09,600 --> 00:13:10,760 Safe in the knowledge 205 00:13:10,840 --> 00:13:13,920 that everyone was about to have their taste buds tantalised, 206 00:13:14,000 --> 00:13:15,480 I headed back down to the festival, 207 00:13:16,240 --> 00:13:17,200 just in time to catch 208 00:13:17,280 --> 00:13:21,800 friend and maestro Grigore Lese serenading the assembled crowd. 209 00:13:23,200 --> 00:13:27,760 It was a real privilege to hear such inspiring music, full of stories, 210 00:13:27,840 --> 00:13:31,840 humour, heartache and history and a sense of national pride, 211 00:13:31,920 --> 00:13:34,640 that still defines Romania's rural identity. 212 00:13:35,160 --> 00:13:39,840 We could say that Romanian folklore has three souls, 213 00:13:39,920 --> 00:13:46,000 one is Oriental, one is Occidental and one of its own. 214 00:13:46,800 --> 00:13:48,280 In Ciocanesti, for instance, where we are now, 215 00:13:48,360 --> 00:13:53,400 we can find Hungarian music, Jewish music, Romanian music, 216 00:13:53,480 --> 00:13:56,560 lautari coming from all over. 217 00:13:56,640 --> 00:13:58,000 Music is mixed. 218 00:13:58,880 --> 00:14:03,880 Still we also find local music, pastoral music. 219 00:14:03,960 --> 00:14:05,480 Unfortunately, 220 00:14:05,560 --> 00:14:08,920 these times we're living in 221 00:14:09,000 --> 00:14:12,000 make people drift apart. 222 00:14:12,880 --> 00:14:15,640 They leave for Western countries, they come back, bring music. 223 00:14:16,320 --> 00:14:19,200 However, it's good that they still preserve some music. 224 00:14:19,280 --> 00:14:20,360 We still have lautari, 225 00:14:20,440 --> 00:14:24,120 we still have young people fond of lautari music, 226 00:14:24,200 --> 00:14:25,960 so it's not so bad. 227 00:14:26,400 --> 00:14:31,400 I think that simplicity has to be cultivated in traditional communities. 228 00:14:31,480 --> 00:14:35,920 Generally speaking, the Romanian mentality is rather weak, 229 00:14:36,600 --> 00:14:41,000 but neither you, nor I should be worried about the fate of these people. 230 00:14:41,800 --> 00:14:47,400 If they still want to play traditional music, they'll play it. 231 00:14:47,120 --> 00:14:48,160 If not, they won't. 232 00:14:48,240 --> 00:14:50,680 We could make as many documentaries as we want, 233 00:14:50,760 --> 00:14:53,800 we could make as many projects as we want, 234 00:14:53,160 --> 00:14:57,920 if people are not self-consciousness nothing could happen. 235 00:14:58,440 --> 00:15:02,000 So the trout festival in Ciocanesti it's quite a new tradition. 236 00:15:02,800 --> 00:15:03,960 It's only been going for a few years, 237 00:15:04,400 --> 00:15:06,360 but it brings thousands of people to the community. 238 00:15:06,440 --> 00:15:11,800 Do you think cultural tourism is an answer for rural areas like this? 239 00:15:11,160 --> 00:15:13,600 This was a festival. 240 00:15:13,680 --> 00:15:18,720 People revealed their hearts and souls, 241 00:15:18,800 --> 00:15:21,360 showed us what they do. 242 00:15:21,440 --> 00:15:25,000 They have some patterns, these house decorations, 243 00:15:25,800 --> 00:15:29,560 this system of sign representation used in objects, 244 00:15:29,640 --> 00:15:32,200 in painted eggs, 245 00:15:33,200 --> 00:15:34,680 this is a story in itself. 246 00:15:34,760 --> 00:15:40,400 But all these things should be put in an European context, 247 00:15:40,120 --> 00:15:41,960 otherwise, no one would come here. 248 00:15:42,400 --> 00:15:45,760 These patterns and symbols that we see in Ciocanesti, 249 00:15:45,840 --> 00:15:47,800 can be found all over the world. 250 00:15:47,160 --> 00:15:50,240 If we go to Mexico, we'll find the same symbols, 251 00:15:50,320 --> 00:15:54,280 if we go to Northern Europe, we'll see the same symbols, 252 00:15:54,360 --> 00:15:55,880 the same habits. 253 00:15:55,960 --> 00:15:58,280 Communities having bold projects 254 00:15:58,360 --> 00:16:02,760 will be the ones who will be successful in tourism. 255 00:16:03,440 --> 00:16:07,840 Bold projects are made with valuable people, and I would ask, 256 00:16:07,920 --> 00:16:08,840 do we have valuable people? 257 00:16:09,520 --> 00:16:12,800 I have been wondering about it for a long time. 258 00:16:12,920 --> 00:16:15,920 Valuable people lead the way. 259 00:16:16,440 --> 00:16:20,760 Provided Bucovina has valuable people, 260 00:16:20,840 --> 00:16:24,240 these communities will move forward, 261 00:16:24,320 --> 00:16:28,400 owing to their habits, their approach to life. 262 00:16:28,480 --> 00:16:29,960 Otherwise, they can't, 263 00:16:30,400 --> 00:16:32,400 because there are other European countries 264 00:16:32,480 --> 00:16:34,360 competing with us. 265 00:16:34,440 --> 00:16:38,560 Like it or not, we are part of a larger family. 266 00:16:38,640 --> 00:16:40,200 Who's gonna win? 267 00:16:40,280 --> 00:16:45,920 The countries and communities having bold projects, 268 00:16:46,000 --> 00:16:50,840 cultural, economic, touristic projects, that's it. 269 00:16:50,920 --> 00:16:55,680 In other words, we have to cultivate simplicity. 270 00:16:55,760 --> 00:16:59,920 People have drifted away from simplicity, and they like complicating things, 271 00:17:00,000 --> 00:17:03,280 economically, culturally, you name it. 272 00:17:03,360 --> 00:17:08,600 May Lord give bliss to those who kiss, and a fair share to those who care. 273 00:17:09,440 --> 00:17:10,240 As simple as that! 274 00:17:11,800 --> 00:17:12,920 Leaving Ciocanesti behind, 275 00:17:13,000 --> 00:17:15,720 it was time to head North towards Suceava. 276 00:17:15,800 --> 00:17:19,360 Probably the most celebrated reason for visiting Bucovina 277 00:17:19,440 --> 00:17:22,400 is to see it's painted churches and monasteries. 278 00:17:22,760 --> 00:17:25,680 Being on the coalface between the East and West, 279 00:17:25,760 --> 00:17:29,400 Stephen the Great and other rulers tried their best to ensure, 280 00:17:29,480 --> 00:17:32,000 even during the times of Ottoman supremacy, 281 00:17:32,800 --> 00:17:35,520 that the local population stayed true to the Christian faith. 282 00:17:36,280 --> 00:17:38,600 Given that many people couldn't read or write, 283 00:17:38,680 --> 00:17:42,800 artists were commissioned to translate the bible and Christian history 284 00:17:42,880 --> 00:17:46,280 into a cornucopia of murals and frescoes, 285 00:17:46,360 --> 00:17:51,120 that adorn the interior and exterior of Bucovina's most famous churches. 286 00:17:53,160 --> 00:17:56,360 Today eight of them are Unesco World Heritage sites, 287 00:17:56,440 --> 00:18:00,480 and you could spend a week trying to properly appreciate and take them all in. 288 00:18:01,440 --> 00:18:04,360 I selected three, for no reason in particular, 289 00:18:04,440 --> 00:18:06,440 so don't presume you are seeing the most beautiful. 290 00:18:06,960 --> 00:18:08,840 Just the ones we had time to show you. 291 00:18:12,240 --> 00:18:17,800 My first stop was Humor, built in 1532, by Stephen the Great's illegitimate son. 292 00:18:18,320 --> 00:18:22,560 Unsurprisingly, some of the frescoes serve as a homage to his father. 293 00:18:24,600 --> 00:18:26,160 These wide overhanging roofs 294 00:18:26,240 --> 00:18:28,640 that you see at all the painted monasteries in Bucovina, 295 00:18:28,720 --> 00:18:31,160 are there to offer some protection from the elements, 296 00:18:31,800 --> 00:18:34,760 but this side of the church is facing North. 297 00:18:34,840 --> 00:18:38,120 As you can see underneath the eaves the paintings are still intact, 298 00:18:38,800 --> 00:18:39,800 but as you go further down, 299 00:18:39,880 --> 00:18:42,280 they've literally been washed away over the centuries. 300 00:18:42,840 --> 00:18:46,400 There were also a row of trees here, and since they've gone, 301 00:18:46,120 --> 00:18:49,880 now the church is facing the full force of the North wind. 302 00:18:55,520 --> 00:18:59,440 This monastery was actually built by a chap called Jupan Toader, 303 00:18:59,520 --> 00:19:02,680 who was the right hand man to Petru Rares, son of Stephen the Great, 304 00:19:02,760 --> 00:19:05,720 who was responsible for a lot of these painted churches. 305 00:19:05,800 --> 00:19:09,680 When Petru Rares had the idea to build a church here, 306 00:19:09,760 --> 00:19:12,800 it was Jupan Toader who said let me donate the money, 307 00:19:12,160 --> 00:19:13,600 I would like to fund this church. 308 00:19:13,680 --> 00:19:18,360 So when it actually started being built and they did the paintings on the walls, 309 00:19:18,440 --> 00:19:21,200 you can see there is a depiction of Petru Rares 310 00:19:21,280 --> 00:19:27,120 giving the church to God which is kind of like hopefully a fast track into Heaven. 311 00:19:28,960 --> 00:19:31,920 Well, that was quite a climb, but worth it for the view. 312 00:19:32,000 --> 00:19:35,360 Looking out over the hills and forests of Bucovina, 313 00:19:35,880 --> 00:19:38,400 you can see why people wanted 314 00:19:38,480 --> 00:19:41,000 to build beautiful monasteries and churches here. 315 00:19:41,800 --> 00:19:43,360 It is a very spiritually uplifting landscape, 316 00:19:44,000 --> 00:19:46,880 and it's also one that was constantly threatened by the Ottomans, 317 00:19:47,800 --> 00:19:51,400 so it was very important that Christianity left its stamp here, 318 00:19:51,480 --> 00:19:53,000 in no uncertain terms. 319 00:19:58,160 --> 00:20:02,600 For me, the most wild and wonderful painted monastery is Sucevita, 320 00:20:03,200 --> 00:20:06,560 cradled in a lush valley between the Carpathian foothills. 321 00:20:20,720 --> 00:20:26,120 Lastly, welcome to Moldovita, notoriously hard to publicise, 322 00:20:26,200 --> 00:20:30,120 because the mother superior is very protective of its treasures, 323 00:20:30,200 --> 00:20:32,120 despite the obvious benefits 324 00:20:32,200 --> 00:20:34,800 positive promotion would have on the local community. 325 00:20:35,400 --> 00:20:37,280 However, a small donation later 326 00:20:37,360 --> 00:20:40,360 and we were allowed to show you a glimpse of its treasures. 327 00:20:40,440 --> 00:20:41,960 Mildly astonished 328 00:20:42,400 --> 00:20:45,680 by how many of these incredible murals have survived the elements. 329 00:20:47,560 --> 00:20:50,840 The one thing I find disturbing about Medieval Christian art 330 00:20:50,920 --> 00:20:55,720 is to show in excruciating detail all the martyrs who died for their faith 331 00:20:55,800 --> 00:20:58,160 in the most grizzly ways imaginable. 332 00:20:59,400 --> 00:21:03,480 There are walls devoted to every possible form of torture and punishment, 333 00:21:03,560 --> 00:21:05,840 a tribute to those who died for their faith, 334 00:21:05,920 --> 00:21:08,920 but the preoccupation with such brutal scenes 335 00:21:09,000 --> 00:21:10,280 could be perceived today 336 00:21:10,360 --> 00:21:13,120 as somewhat disconnected from the central messages of love, 337 00:21:13,200 --> 00:21:15,160 forgiveness and charity. 338 00:21:24,400 --> 00:21:26,360 There is another good reason for visiting Moldovita, 339 00:21:27,000 --> 00:21:29,600 particularly if you are a fan of the steam engine. 340 00:21:30,560 --> 00:21:32,440 If you have a few hours spare, 341 00:21:32,520 --> 00:21:35,360 you can catch the Hutulca narrow gauage steam train, 342 00:21:35,440 --> 00:21:39,000 on a delightful ten kilometer trip down the Moldovita valley, 343 00:21:39,800 --> 00:21:40,920 to nowhere in particular. 344 00:21:41,480 --> 00:21:43,840 But there is something profoundly relaxing 345 00:21:43,920 --> 00:21:47,400 about chuffing through lush and diverting scenery, 346 00:21:47,480 --> 00:21:48,680 knowing that for once, 347 00:21:48,760 --> 00:21:52,200 you are on a journey where the destination really doesn't matter. 348 00:21:53,400 --> 00:21:54,480 Although the end of the line, in this case, 349 00:21:54,560 --> 00:21:57,840 provides the option of a barbecue and refreshments 350 00:21:57,920 --> 00:22:00,200 before it's about turn and full speed home. 351 00:22:02,000 --> 00:22:05,480 I took advantage of the changeover to hop up front and see, 352 00:22:05,560 --> 00:22:08,800 if being a train driver, is as much fun as it looks. 353 00:22:13,600 --> 00:22:15,440 How chuffed am I right now? 354 00:22:29,360 --> 00:22:33,000 Driving north towards Suceava, we pass near the town of Cacica, 355 00:22:33,800 --> 00:22:35,640 which is enjoying something of a renaissance, 356 00:22:35,720 --> 00:22:38,760 thanks to a growing awareness of the benefits of health tourism. 357 00:22:41,240 --> 00:22:43,400 A novel way to cool down on a hot summer's day, 358 00:22:43,480 --> 00:22:45,120 and particularly if you suffer 359 00:22:45,200 --> 00:22:47,360 from chest infections, or breathing difficulties, 360 00:22:47,440 --> 00:22:50,400 is to visit the town's historic salt mine 361 00:22:50,120 --> 00:22:52,920 for a chance to inhale some saline air, 362 00:22:53,000 --> 00:22:57,640 and stroll through miles of carved corridors and twilight tunnels, 363 00:22:57,720 --> 00:23:00,320 winding deep into the bowels of the earth. 364 00:23:01,800 --> 00:23:05,280 On your perambulations you can expect to find a chapel. 365 00:23:06,160 --> 00:23:09,960 Every year on December the 4th, priests from three different confessions, 366 00:23:10,400 --> 00:23:13,240 Greek Orthodox, Greek Catholic, and Roman Catholic, 367 00:23:13,320 --> 00:23:16,520 would hold a service down here to commemorate Saint Barbara, 368 00:23:16,600 --> 00:23:18,000 the patron saint of miners, 369 00:23:18,800 --> 00:23:22,800 because working in these salt mines was a risky occupation. 370 00:23:25,160 --> 00:23:31,240 This is a subterranean world carved out by the sweat of countless miners, 371 00:23:32,120 --> 00:23:34,200 but it also holds a few secrets. 372 00:23:35,240 --> 00:23:39,840 For instance, what has to be a contender for the world's most improbable ballroom. 373 00:23:41,240 --> 00:23:43,840 Imagine you walk 500 meters, 374 00:23:43,920 --> 00:23:49,800 in all your finery down through these tunnels to reach this! 375 00:23:50,360 --> 00:23:55,800 Candelabras, drinks, music, maybe an orchestra. 376 00:23:56,240 --> 00:23:57,520 It's extraordinary! 377 00:24:00,560 --> 00:24:07,280 Must have been so atmospheric with all those costumes in those days, 378 00:24:07,360 --> 00:24:09,400 I mean what a piece of history. 379 00:24:09,480 --> 00:24:12,880 And people having balls here up to 30 years ago. 380 00:24:14,160 --> 00:24:18,400 I wish I'd been a fly on the wall back then, imagine it! 381 00:24:21,000 --> 00:24:23,000 This would be the best location to have a party. 382 00:24:26,680 --> 00:24:29,960 And the acoustics aren't bad here either. Listen to this! 383 00:24:44,720 --> 00:24:46,800 There is also a museum, 384 00:24:48,360 --> 00:24:50,400 and even a sports center. 385 00:24:50,720 --> 00:24:51,760 As I discovered, 386 00:24:51,840 --> 00:24:55,520 when I turned up to the football arena, just before the start of a game. 387 00:25:00,640 --> 00:25:04,400 Continuing our journey North, we reach the capital of Bucovina, 388 00:25:04,960 --> 00:25:06,600 the very underrated Suceava, 389 00:25:07,320 --> 00:25:11,600 arriving in time to catch the beginning of its annual medieval festival, 390 00:25:12,240 --> 00:25:14,760 one of the biggest and most colourful in Europe. 391 00:25:16,120 --> 00:25:20,160 The opening ceremony consists of a march through the streets of the city, 392 00:25:20,240 --> 00:25:22,560 including anyone who has the slightest excuse 393 00:25:22,640 --> 00:25:27,440 to be involved in this three day extravaganza of music, gallantry, 394 00:25:27,520 --> 00:25:29,200 fighting and feasting. 395 00:25:29,280 --> 00:25:32,160 Well, everyone looks a bit confused, policemen are on their phones, 396 00:25:32,680 --> 00:25:35,280 people are scratching their beards, scratching their horses. 397 00:25:35,360 --> 00:25:38,800 But the parade is about to start, allegedly at eight thirty. 398 00:25:38,880 --> 00:25:42,720 The streets are not exactly sealed off, but people are queuing up along the sides, 399 00:25:42,800 --> 00:25:46,840 so hopefully that will deter any reckless driving and we will follow the parade 400 00:25:46,920 --> 00:25:48,760 all the way to the castle or that's my hope. 401 00:25:48,840 --> 00:25:52,280 But according to my sat nav, it's 17 minutes by car, 402 00:25:52,360 --> 00:25:54,560 so quite how long it's going to take remains to be seen. 403 00:25:58,760 --> 00:26:01,240 Roads are sealed off, crowds gather, 404 00:26:01,320 --> 00:26:04,800 and the players assemble to carry their torches, 405 00:26:04,160 --> 00:26:07,000 and parade their homemade costumes through the streets, 406 00:26:07,800 --> 00:26:10,000 en route to the castle for the start of what has become 407 00:26:10,800 --> 00:26:12,680 one of Bucovina's most prolific events. 408 00:26:44,960 --> 00:26:47,560 Well, it turns out it was seven km long, 409 00:26:47,640 --> 00:26:50,400 which makes it one of the longest marches in Eastern Europe 410 00:26:50,480 --> 00:26:52,000 or so I'm reliably informed. 411 00:26:52,800 --> 00:26:54,560 Anyway, everyone has gone home now because they are thoroughly exhausted, 412 00:26:54,640 --> 00:26:57,400 understandably, including the horses which didn't made it to the finish line, 413 00:26:57,480 --> 00:27:00,760 but festivities are now officially opened. 414 00:27:00,840 --> 00:27:02,480 So we will see the glories 415 00:27:02,560 --> 00:27:04,880 of what a medieval festival holds tomorrow. 416 00:27:10,640 --> 00:27:13,560 The next morning, as horses were being saddled, 417 00:27:13,640 --> 00:27:17,600 maidens were warming their vocal chords, and swords were being blunted, 418 00:27:18,240 --> 00:27:23,240 I grabbed organiser Emil Ursu for a quick lowdown on what to expect. 419 00:27:25,240 --> 00:27:30,440 It's been the only festival, since its first edition, 11 years ago, 420 00:27:30,520 --> 00:27:35,440 where every day we have reenactments of moments in local history. 421 00:27:36,240 --> 00:27:38,960 And how many people are involved now? 422 00:27:39,400 --> 00:27:41,760 Now we have 423 00:27:41,840 --> 00:27:45,840 420 people in the citadel, 424 00:27:46,600 --> 00:27:47,800 I mean professionals, 425 00:27:47,880 --> 00:27:49,200 and, obviously, our volunteers, 426 00:27:49,280 --> 00:27:54,120 plus Suceava inhabitants who are wearing medieval costumes. 427 00:27:54,200 --> 00:28:00,680 This seems to be a very good way of bringing tourists to Suceava, 428 00:28:00,760 --> 00:28:02,560 it's clearly working very well. 429 00:28:02,640 --> 00:28:08,880 Is this a model that you can recommend to other cities in Romania? 430 00:28:08,960 --> 00:28:13,400 Yes, it is. It's a model that could be recommended. 431 00:28:13,120 --> 00:28:15,200 As a matter of fact, this year too, 432 00:28:15,280 --> 00:28:18,160 there are some, let's say, curious people, 433 00:28:18,240 --> 00:28:20,680 who'd like to learn a lot of information 434 00:28:20,760 --> 00:28:24,280 related to organizing, artistic groups, contacts. 435 00:28:24,360 --> 00:28:28,520 It seems that some plan to organize 436 00:28:28,600 --> 00:28:31,720 similar events in various locations. 437 00:28:31,800 --> 00:28:37,560 However, there are some hurdles. The first one is the lack of a citadel. 438 00:28:38,120 --> 00:28:41,360 Obviously, the festival brings a lot of people to Suceava, 439 00:28:41,440 --> 00:28:43,120 and it's great for tourism. 440 00:28:43,200 --> 00:28:44,000 Is it, do you think, 441 00:28:44,800 --> 00:28:46,880 also an important way to preserve Romania's patrimony, 442 00:28:46,960 --> 00:28:48,680 its cultural heritage? 443 00:28:48,760 --> 00:28:53,480 By this festival we try to highlight this area's historical traditions. 444 00:28:53,560 --> 00:28:57,800 Obviously, some events held in Bucovina 445 00:28:57,880 --> 00:29:01,840 try to highlight handicraft traditions, 446 00:29:01,920 --> 00:29:03,440 wood craftsmanship, 447 00:29:03,960 --> 00:29:07,760 forest fruit tradition, as we are in a mountainous area. 448 00:29:07,840 --> 00:29:12,160 Here, we try to underline the historical traditions. 449 00:29:12,680 --> 00:29:13,840 As much as we can. 450 00:29:13,920 --> 00:29:18,280 Of course, not only Suceava's traditions, but also those of our neighborhood, 451 00:29:18,360 --> 00:29:24,000 I mean Poland, Ukraine, Hungary, Serbia, 452 00:29:24,800 --> 00:29:26,480 or the Transylvania Saxon. 453 00:29:27,280 --> 00:29:28,920 Well, I better let you get on with the preparations, 454 00:29:29,000 --> 00:29:30,920 but thank you so much, that was great! 455 00:29:31,000 --> 00:29:32,800 You're welcome and enjoy our festival! 456 00:29:32,880 --> 00:29:33,920 And congratulations! 457 00:29:34,000 --> 00:29:36,680 -Congratulations! -Thank you so much! 458 00:29:40,680 --> 00:29:43,400 This truly is an extraordinary festival. 459 00:29:43,920 --> 00:29:46,640 It's not just about celebrating Romania's archaic history, 460 00:29:46,720 --> 00:29:48,800 or indulging in a bit of pageantry, 461 00:29:51,880 --> 00:29:54,000 it's about bringing the whole city together. 462 00:30:02,880 --> 00:30:06,800 You can watch knights and brigands battle it out in the arena. 463 00:30:20,120 --> 00:30:24,200 No one is pulling any punches here, they are really going for it, 464 00:30:24,280 --> 00:30:25,680 I imagine there's going to be 465 00:30:25,760 --> 00:30:26,840 a few people with a very sore head by the end of this. 466 00:30:36,520 --> 00:30:39,640 You can shop for rare antiques, clothing and keepsakes 467 00:30:41,840 --> 00:30:44,400 or just eat like a lord. 468 00:30:45,160 --> 00:30:48,400 One thing you don't expect to find at a medieval festival 469 00:30:48,120 --> 00:30:49,640 is a great seafood spread, 470 00:30:49,720 --> 00:30:52,720 however, thanks to modern transport 471 00:30:52,800 --> 00:30:54,840 and rushing it up here from the Black Sea coast, 472 00:30:55,560 --> 00:30:57,400 we've got mussels in a hot chilli sauce, 473 00:30:57,480 --> 00:31:01,800 we've got shrimps and we have octopus on the grill. 474 00:31:01,160 --> 00:31:03,160 And I am completely confounded, 475 00:31:03,240 --> 00:31:05,440 because i don't know what to order so I think I'm going to have the lot. 476 00:31:13,440 --> 00:31:18,800 Suceava has much to recommend it, but few tourists venture further North, 477 00:31:18,880 --> 00:31:22,280 to explore the lands that lie near the Ukraine border. 478 00:31:23,360 --> 00:31:25,480 One reason why they are missing out 479 00:31:25,560 --> 00:31:29,840 is the chance to visit the former home of Romania's most famous poet, 480 00:31:29,920 --> 00:31:32,800 Mihai Eminescu, in the village of Ipotesti. 481 00:31:35,640 --> 00:31:38,800 It's strange to think that such a quiet, unassuming place, 482 00:31:39,320 --> 00:31:42,840 gave rise to a writer of such depth and passion. 483 00:31:44,000 --> 00:31:49,400 Albeit rebuilt, the house contains many items that belonged to him, 484 00:31:49,560 --> 00:31:53,720 and conveys a sense of what life was like in the mid 19th century. 485 00:32:20,120 --> 00:32:22,360 He was nothing if not prolific, 486 00:32:22,440 --> 00:32:24,600 he wrote 46 volumes of poetry, 487 00:32:24,680 --> 00:32:27,200 that's 14 thousand pages, 488 00:32:28,360 --> 00:32:31,560 a lot more than me, but he was also a great romantic 489 00:32:32,440 --> 00:32:36,400 and much of his work is preoccupied with nature 490 00:32:36,480 --> 00:32:38,400 and the changing seasons. 491 00:32:39,400 --> 00:32:42,520 So this one I found is called, Why do you wail, oh, forest trees, 492 00:32:42,600 --> 00:32:44,440 and it's a translated version, 493 00:32:44,520 --> 00:32:47,400 so forgive me it's not in the original Romanian. 494 00:32:48,120 --> 00:32:51,400 "Why do you wail o forest trees." 495 00:32:51,120 --> 00:32:52,520 "Forest, without rain or breeze 496 00:32:52,600 --> 00:32:54,760 your branches ill at ease?" 497 00:32:54,840 --> 00:32:56,800 "How indeed should I not wail 498 00:32:56,160 --> 00:32:57,960 when the hours of summer fail!" 499 00:32:58,400 --> 00:33:00,120 "Nights grow longer, days get short 500 00:33:00,200 --> 00:33:03,800 on my branches few leaves caught 501 00:33:03,160 --> 00:33:04,440 and the winds with bitter sword 502 00:33:04,520 --> 00:33:06,840 drive my choristers abroad." 503 00:33:06,920 --> 00:33:09,800 "Autumn winds that forests flay 504 00:33:09,160 --> 00:33:11,840 winter near, spring far away." 505 00:33:11,920 --> 00:33:13,480 "How indeed should I not groan 506 00:33:13,560 --> 00:33:16,400 when my singing birds have flown 507 00:33:16,480 --> 00:33:18,360 and across the frozen sky 508 00:33:18,440 --> 00:33:20,600 flocks of swallows hurry by 509 00:33:20,680 --> 00:33:22,840 and with them my fancies fly 510 00:33:22,920 --> 00:33:25,400 leaving me alone to sigh." 511 00:33:25,480 --> 00:33:27,200 "Hurry on as time in flight 512 00:33:27,280 --> 00:33:29,160 turning day half into night. 513 00:33:29,840 --> 00:33:31,280 Time that o'er the forest rings 514 00:33:31,360 --> 00:33:33,520 with a fluttering of wings." 515 00:33:33,600 --> 00:33:35,440 "And they pass and leave me cold 516 00:33:35,520 --> 00:33:38,520 nude and shivering and old." 517 00:33:38,600 --> 00:33:41,800 "For my thoughts with them have flown 518 00:33:41,160 --> 00:33:43,440 and with them my gladness gone." 519 00:33:44,840 --> 00:33:46,480 Very beautiful poem. 520 00:33:46,560 --> 00:33:49,240 I think it's obviously much better in the original Romanian, 521 00:33:49,320 --> 00:33:50,480 again, I'm sorry for that, 522 00:33:50,560 --> 00:33:53,360 but it also reminds me of one that I wrote in a similar vein. 523 00:33:53,440 --> 00:33:57,760 As a poet, if I can't read a poem here, in front of Mihai Eminescu's house, 524 00:33:57,840 --> 00:33:58,800 than where can I do it? 525 00:33:58,880 --> 00:34:00,160 So bear with me please. 526 00:34:00,240 --> 00:34:02,400 "As Nature's dentist plucks his trade 527 00:34:02,480 --> 00:34:04,960 and summer's show succumbs to shade, 528 00:34:05,400 --> 00:34:07,400 I'll pass beneath the copper eaves 529 00:34:07,120 --> 00:34:09,560 and leave the web my lady weaves 530 00:34:09,640 --> 00:34:11,880 and as the north wind strips the land 531 00:34:11,960 --> 00:34:14,440 and winter plays his frozen hand 532 00:34:14,520 --> 00:34:16,840 I will the south my soul to lift 533 00:34:16,920 --> 00:34:19,720 and fly upon the ocean swift." 534 00:34:19,800 --> 00:34:22,560 "Yet as these thoughts through deeds recede 535 00:34:22,640 --> 00:34:25,560 this bitterness itself shall bleed 536 00:34:25,640 --> 00:34:28,800 and once the grey consents to green 537 00:34:28,160 --> 00:34:30,600 once more within her arms I'll dream." 538 00:34:37,200 --> 00:34:41,560 A bit further North from Ipotesti is the village of Vorona. 539 00:34:41,640 --> 00:34:43,360 I have come here to once again 540 00:34:43,440 --> 00:34:47,200 track down friend and musical historian Bogdan Simion, 541 00:34:47,280 --> 00:34:51,720 who was keen to introduce me to some signature sounds of Bucovina. 542 00:34:51,800 --> 00:34:53,560 Nice to see you, welcome to Vorona, man. 543 00:34:53,640 --> 00:34:54,960 -Good to see you. -Thank you so much. 544 00:34:55,400 --> 00:34:57,400 I keep bumping into you in the most remote places. 545 00:34:57,480 --> 00:34:59,960 I'm always in search of music, always in search of sounds. 546 00:35:00,400 --> 00:35:01,920 -The quest always continues. -Yeah, exactly. 547 00:35:02,000 --> 00:35:03,800 -Hello! -Welcome. 548 00:35:03,880 --> 00:35:05,120 Charlie, glad to meet you! 549 00:35:05,200 --> 00:35:07,200 This is the brass band from Vorona. 550 00:35:07,280 --> 00:35:11,560 One of the last peasant brass bands in the whole North of Moldova, actually, 551 00:35:11,640 --> 00:35:13,720 encompasing Bucovina as well. 552 00:35:13,800 --> 00:35:17,600 Their tradition partially stems from Austrian Hungarian military music, 553 00:35:17,680 --> 00:35:20,800 marching bands from the Russian Tsarist empire, 554 00:35:20,160 --> 00:35:21,400 Polish music. 555 00:35:21,480 --> 00:35:26,360 But mostly, what happened was that their grandparents left for the army, 556 00:35:26,440 --> 00:35:29,120 carrying flutes and bagpipes and returned... 557 00:35:29,200 --> 00:35:30,240 With brass instruments. 558 00:35:30,320 --> 00:35:35,160 With brass military instruments. Yet they played their own folk music. 559 00:35:35,240 --> 00:35:37,160 So this is what is distinctive about this band. 560 00:35:37,240 --> 00:35:39,840 So they learned the marching tunes while they were with the army, 561 00:35:39,920 --> 00:35:40,960 and then they came back 562 00:35:41,400 --> 00:35:44,360 and they converted the instruments to playing folk music. 563 00:35:44,440 --> 00:35:49,120 Exactly. But they also have a very large multicultural repertoire, 564 00:35:49,200 --> 00:35:52,480 they have songs called Polcuta, which is a Polish dance, 565 00:35:52,560 --> 00:35:55,320 they have Rusasca, which is a Russian dance, 566 00:35:55,400 --> 00:35:57,760 they have Jampara, which is a Turkish dance. 567 00:35:57,840 --> 00:36:00,000 These people party almost constantly. 568 00:36:00,800 --> 00:36:02,800 They have ten churches to honour, they have two monasteries, 569 00:36:03,480 --> 00:36:04,960 they celebrate the communes, 570 00:36:05,400 --> 00:36:08,640 that they are intertwined with, in France and Republic of Moldova. 571 00:36:08,720 --> 00:36:11,680 They celebrate almost every single day, not counting weddings, 572 00:36:11,760 --> 00:36:13,360 baptisms, anniversaries, 573 00:36:13,440 --> 00:36:15,800 -And funerals. -And funerals. Yeah. 574 00:36:16,360 --> 00:36:17,640 What are we going to hear first? 575 00:36:17,720 --> 00:36:22,520 We are going to hear a very special song which is right from here, from Vorona, 576 00:36:22,600 --> 00:36:25,280 you can't hear it anywhere else and it's called "The Loom". 577 00:36:25,360 --> 00:36:27,400 As in preparing the wool to create fabric? 578 00:36:27,480 --> 00:36:28,480 Exactly. 579 00:36:28,560 --> 00:36:30,200 -Shall we sit? -Of course! 580 00:36:31,160 --> 00:36:33,000 Go on, guys! 581 00:37:08,200 --> 00:37:10,200 Good job, boys! 582 00:37:10,280 --> 00:37:11,360 Tremendous! 583 00:37:11,440 --> 00:37:15,920 In this area where we are and also in Maramures and Satu Mare, 584 00:37:16,000 --> 00:37:18,200 are the only areas in Romania 585 00:37:18,280 --> 00:37:22,600 where the Communist collectivization was not made fully. 586 00:37:22,680 --> 00:37:24,000 Because they couldn't do it completely. 587 00:37:24,800 --> 00:37:25,800 They couldn't control the people. 588 00:37:25,160 --> 00:37:29,680 And here people still remember the anti-communist songs 589 00:37:29,760 --> 00:37:33,440 that they used to sing in a very dangerous environment, in the 50's. 590 00:37:33,520 --> 00:37:39,400 So when in the 50's you would hear the radios exalting the communist party, 591 00:37:39,560 --> 00:37:42,520 you would also hear them in parties. 592 00:37:43,280 --> 00:37:44,720 Good old Chirila, for instance, 593 00:37:44,800 --> 00:37:49,240 you could hear him singing bad things about the Communist party. 594 00:37:49,320 --> 00:37:52,280 So he must have gone in a bit of trouble over the years, I presume. 595 00:37:52,360 --> 00:37:55,280 I guess, I guess he did. He was a little reckless, you can say that. 596 00:37:55,360 --> 00:37:57,120 Chirila, dear, let's sing. 597 00:38:01,720 --> 00:38:02,520 Start! 598 00:38:25,240 --> 00:38:26,560 Heading back South, 599 00:38:26,640 --> 00:38:29,680 the land remains fairly featureless until you reach Suceava, 600 00:38:30,280 --> 00:38:32,800 which makes it ideal for growing melons. 601 00:38:34,280 --> 00:38:37,600 The lush soil, sunshine and absence of shade, 602 00:38:37,680 --> 00:38:41,480 contribute to almost every variety of the Cucumis family. 603 00:38:44,320 --> 00:38:47,720 With each roadside stand, I felt my resolve weakening. 604 00:38:48,760 --> 00:38:50,400 It was only a matter of time. 605 00:38:53,440 --> 00:38:55,400 One of the things that always perplexes me 606 00:38:56,200 --> 00:39:01,760 is that Romania, which is basically the bread basket of Europe, 607 00:39:01,840 --> 00:39:04,760 has some of the best fruit and vegetables anywhere, 608 00:39:04,840 --> 00:39:07,920 and yet in supermarkets very often you find Turkish melons. 609 00:39:08,760 --> 00:39:13,320 Look at these! Fantastic Romanian melons grown just here. I am going to have one. 610 00:39:13,840 --> 00:39:17,000 -How much is it? -2.50. 611 00:39:19,880 --> 00:39:21,120 Thank you! 612 00:39:24,000 --> 00:39:25,440 So you see this is a very big treat back home. 613 00:39:26,360 --> 00:39:28,320 I think when you've got it on your doorstep, 614 00:39:28,400 --> 00:39:30,440 sometimes is a bit easy to take it for granted. 615 00:39:30,520 --> 00:39:31,480 The problem, I guess, 616 00:39:31,560 --> 00:39:34,440 is that the small producers here 617 00:39:34,520 --> 00:39:37,680 can't club together enough to name their price, 618 00:39:37,760 --> 00:39:41,600 and you have foreign suppliers who are selling them in much cheaper, 619 00:39:41,680 --> 00:39:43,760 so the supermarkets obviously go for the cheapest option, 620 00:39:44,480 --> 00:39:46,800 but not the sweetest option. 621 00:39:48,280 --> 00:39:52,520 That's like ambrosia. Pure nectar, full of sugar and it's fruit sugar, 622 00:39:52,600 --> 00:39:53,480 it's gorgeous. 623 00:39:55,520 --> 00:39:59,200 We need to see more farmers markets, we need to see some more collectives. 624 00:39:59,280 --> 00:40:02,600 Let's all club together get local suppliers to form groups, 625 00:40:02,680 --> 00:40:05,280 and then they can command a good price for the supermarkets, 626 00:40:05,960 --> 00:40:07,520 to get their products on the shelves. 627 00:40:07,600 --> 00:40:08,480 Thank you! 628 00:40:14,960 --> 00:40:16,280 Saturated with fruit, 629 00:40:16,360 --> 00:40:19,280 I set out on the final furlong of our adventure, 630 00:40:20,160 --> 00:40:23,280 a stunning drive through the mountains towards Vatra Dornei, 631 00:40:23,360 --> 00:40:26,400 where there was one remaining peak to conquer, 632 00:40:26,480 --> 00:40:28,960 before we reluctantly reach our conclusion. 633 00:40:36,120 --> 00:40:39,880 Racing against the setting sun, I headed upwards, 634 00:40:40,960 --> 00:40:46,000 towards what has to be a contender for the most beautiful view in Romania. 635 00:40:58,720 --> 00:41:01,800 And the place where we've come to say goodbye, 636 00:41:06,800 --> 00:41:07,920 Rarau Mountain. 637 00:41:19,440 --> 00:41:23,840 Waking up on this remote summit is an incredible experience. 638 00:41:25,840 --> 00:41:28,800 I have a suspicion the sun is about to rise. 639 00:41:33,600 --> 00:41:34,960 I am not a mornings person. 640 00:41:36,280 --> 00:41:40,120 Sadly, one I was completely unable to convey, 641 00:41:40,200 --> 00:41:42,160 due to the driving force of the wind. 642 00:41:43,680 --> 00:41:45,000 What an amazing view! 643 00:41:46,120 --> 00:41:49,400 But right now, it defied description. 644 00:41:49,880 --> 00:41:53,880 The wild beauty, the solace, the freedom, 645 00:41:54,480 --> 00:41:56,240 you'll just have to take my word for it. 646 00:41:56,760 --> 00:41:58,240 Or come here yourselves. 647 00:42:28,600 --> 00:42:30,800 Hoping it would be calmer in the forest, 648 00:42:30,880 --> 00:42:33,640 we headed back down to the shelter of the rocks. 649 00:42:34,760 --> 00:42:38,880 And the sobering thought that here and now, 650 00:42:39,400 --> 00:42:41,240 we were about to cross the finish line. 651 00:42:42,400 --> 00:42:44,560 It's been seven months, 652 00:42:44,640 --> 00:42:48,400 we've travelled over 20,000 kilometers, 653 00:42:48,120 --> 00:42:50,160 and suddenly, this was it! 654 00:42:53,440 --> 00:42:55,880 For every story we've told, 655 00:42:55,960 --> 00:42:58,400 there have been dozens that we haven't been able to include. 656 00:42:58,480 --> 00:43:00,520 For every character I have interviewed, 657 00:43:00,600 --> 00:43:03,240 there have been hundreds of wonderful people who we've met, 658 00:43:03,320 --> 00:43:05,560 who we just don't have time to introduce you to. 659 00:43:05,640 --> 00:43:09,360 Because seven months of filming goes past in a blink of an eye. 660 00:43:10,240 --> 00:43:15,000 So all we can give you is a flavour, a snapshot in time. 661 00:43:15,800 --> 00:43:16,520 But a crucial one. 662 00:43:16,600 --> 00:43:19,840 Because Romania is standing at a crossroads. 663 00:43:19,920 --> 00:43:24,760 One way, is a concrete cul de sac, a landscape devoid of forests, 664 00:43:24,840 --> 00:43:27,880 peppered with crumbled villages and empty hotels. 665 00:43:27,960 --> 00:43:31,360 The other, more vertiginous and challenging route, 666 00:43:31,440 --> 00:43:33,120 involves delayed gratification... 667 00:43:34,360 --> 00:43:36,360 sensitive and careful development, 668 00:43:36,440 --> 00:43:40,360 sustainable management of resources and political transparency. 669 00:43:40,440 --> 00:43:43,920 This commitment to environmental and patrimonial conservation 670 00:43:44,000 --> 00:43:49,720 could assure a new dawn and make Romania a vital example to the rest of the world, 671 00:43:49,800 --> 00:43:54,160 immortalizing its status, both literally and metaphorically, 672 00:43:54,240 --> 00:43:55,880 as the greenest country in Europe. 673 00:43:57,360 --> 00:44:01,800 To achieve this requires an end to corruption at all levels, 674 00:44:01,160 --> 00:44:03,360 and a change in attitude. 675 00:44:03,440 --> 00:44:05,400 People must wake up to the fact 676 00:44:05,120 --> 00:44:10,240 that preserving historic buildings provides an income for surrounding areas, 677 00:44:10,320 --> 00:44:13,800 and that not everything that's new is good. 678 00:44:13,160 --> 00:44:17,920 It is far more sophisticated to restore or expand a traditional home, 679 00:44:18,000 --> 00:44:20,880 than tear it down in favour of building a new one. 680 00:44:21,560 --> 00:44:25,840 To grow, sometimes we have to retrace our steps. 681 00:44:25,920 --> 00:44:27,680 And Romania needs to rediscover 682 00:44:27,760 --> 00:44:30,560 the balance between progress and heritage, 683 00:44:30,640 --> 00:44:33,400 mankind and mother nature. 684 00:44:34,920 --> 00:44:38,560 It's my belief that together we can achieve this. 685 00:44:39,840 --> 00:44:43,000 Thank you for watching and stay off the beaten track.