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Romania is a land of a thousand faces.
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The crossing point
between the Occident and the Orient,
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and a melting pot of different cultures
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and is also a country
unlike any other in Europe.
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Within the half of Carpathian
mountains range living through it,
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Romania is the custodian of Europe's
greatest surviving mixed forests
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and two thirds of its apex predators.
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As well as native Romanians,
is home to Hungarian,
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Saxon,
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Roma,
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Serbian,
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Greek and many more diverse peoples,
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united by the borders of a nation
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that stretches to the mouth of the Danube.
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Here, Europe's largest wetland
fans out into the Black Sea
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creating its own vast, priceless
and fragile ecosystem.
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Inland, Romania is rich,
with historic cities and villages
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majestic national parks,
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ruined castles,
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medieval monasteries
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and a legacy that dates back
thousands of years.
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However, Romania's
natural and built heritage
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is under threat from reckless development
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and a race to modernize
which often destroys
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the very things that could ensure
prosperity for generations to come.
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The next leg of our journey
takes us to Moldova,
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an ancient region covering
the eastern part of the country.
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Originally twice its current size,
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it included northern Bucovina
and Basarabia,
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now part of the entirely separated
Republic of Moldova.
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But before leaving Transylvania behind us,
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we needed to stop at the border
beside the not so eponymous Red Lake
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in order to make
alternative travel arrangements.
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Our first destination is so remote
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that I'm having to swap the bike
for the crew car to get there.
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It's 45 minutes
down a mountainous dirt road
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and we're going to see
how people survive out there
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almost cut off from civilization.
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I'm heading to the village
of Three Fountains,
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a little Shangri La
cradled by hay meadows,
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steep hills and thick forests.
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This is a place worth visiting
just for the drive
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which takes you past secret waterfalls,
through dark ravines
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and along winding tracks that lead you
deeper and deeper into the wild.
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I think this is the right place.
We are here to meet madam Zsuzsanna
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who's lived all of her life
in this village.
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On one side of the river are Hungarians,
on the other side are Romanians
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and it's very, very pretty here
but extremely cut off.
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Madam Zsuzsanna.
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I'm Charlie. Nice to meet you.
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Must be very tough living here.
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{\an8}We must have stock here.
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{\an8}We have flour, oil, rice, sugar,
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lard, animals.
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We milk the cow,
we have milk, butter, cheese... Look.
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If not, there's no shop here.
We can't have a shop with no money.
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For instance I don't even have a pension.
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- No? Not even a pension?
- I have no pension.
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- Really?
- Really. As I tell you.
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I worked a lot together with my husband,
we worked with animals.
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- Do you speak Hungarian?
- Yes.
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So in the village you have Hungarians
on one side of the river
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and Romanians on the other side
of the river.
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Are they getting along?
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- People?
- Yes.
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They have got along very well so far,
they didn't quarrel or fight.
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Now there are not many Romanians left
because the old men have died
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and the young ones have left
each one where they could.
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During summer more of them
come for the hay,
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they make the hay and then go abroad.
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When I was young, 15-16
up to 20 years old,
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many people were coming here,
in the village,
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each house had many children,
ten, nine, eight,
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for instance we were eight brothers
but now I was left alone.
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- They are all dead.
- I am sorry.
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My life is very hard
because I can't do anything.
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I have grown old here and, with God's
mercy, I'll die here as well.
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On the return journey we drove
by pastoral pursuits,
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both moving and hitherto,
timeless in their necessity.
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But with so few young people
choosing to remain here,
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the hard work is left
to an increasingly aging population
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forced to collaborate in order to survive
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in this beautiful
but unforgiving environment.
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All too soon seems like this one
they become a distant memory.
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Reunited with the bike,
I was glad to be back on the tarmac
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and ready to embark on one
of Romania's most spectacular drives.
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As the road descends down into Moldova
it follows an alpine stream
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which has carved a monstrous crevasse
through miles of Jurassic limestone
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offering a regal vantage point
for eagles and mountain goats
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inured to the steady parade of tourists
that pass beneath them.
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The Bicaz Gorge is the deepest in Romania
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and nothing short of breathtaking.
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At its most vertiginous point
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a group of brave souls
has set up tourist stores
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with assorted merchandise,
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both traditional
and manufactured in the Orient.
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Despite the occasional
rock falling from above,
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many tourists seem undaunted
in their determination
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to stop here
and take an obligatory selfie.
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That was pretty awe inspiring.
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I come from a country
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where the Cheddar Gorge
is one of our major landmarks.
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Looks like a small indentation
compared to that.
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It's hardly surprising,
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that this is also a superb destination
for rock climbing.
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And some locals have become
particularly good at it,
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most notably famous international
alpinist Constantin Lăcătușu,
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the first and only Romanian
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to successfully complete
the seven summit challenge.
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I arranged to meet him at an alpine chalet
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which he organizes and help to build.
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I noticed the route
going along the side there
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{\an8}that looks like a kind of an all purpose
beginners route, right?
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{\an8}Yes, there are different choices.
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{\an8}this is the longest
via ferrata in Romania,
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we made it in 2016, we don't have
many projects like this in Romania,
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maybe ten or 15,
because it's something different,
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it's different, it's not trekking,
it's not rock climbing,
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- it's something in between.
- You think Romania has the potential
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to become
one of the top climbing destinations.
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For sure. In many seasons,
any kind of trekking or climbing
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I think we have very, very good
mountains for this.
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I think this kind of experience
that people can have
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is a much deeper connection
with the landscape
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than just traveling round in a bus.
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This example is very good here
in Bicaz Gorges
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when you go by car
and you cross the gorges,
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you are down if you take a picture
you see almost nothing,
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but if you want more to discover,
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you have to go upstreams,
laterally or climbing,
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but there are also trekking routes
and you can see everything from higher
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so it's much different, you have a much
better idea about how the place is.
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Do you think you'll always be climbing?
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You know we do get older
and things get obviously a bit harder.
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This is life. Life is a little bit
about going higher. High and down.
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Always after a top you have to go down
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and then you see another top,
even if it's smaller,
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you want to climb it and then down.
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Somebody said... what is climbing.
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He said it's like a philosophy,
it's a way of life,
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but also life sometimes
it's a way of alpinism.
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As I was leaving,
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I noticed one of the climbers
had a familiar sounding accent.
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Stu, what brings you to Romania?
I've seen you climbing
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and it's unusual for fellow Brits
to be out here.
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Yes it's not specific
on major climbing routes and things
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but there are, I think, 7.000 routes
all across Romania.
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It's the best way to see
the landscape, isn't it?
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Yes. The thing is
if you visit a country to climb
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and it takes you to these
little villages that you never see,
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that's the biggest thing.
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I've been to Cluj
and I was really surprised
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it's just like any other European city,
I felt like I was in Amsterdam...
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Were you surprised by that?
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Yes, about how modern it was
with modern transportation system,
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clean streets and clean...
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It's funny, it's nothing
like people expect.
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No.
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We all got preconceptions of Romania.
But when you get here
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and it's nothing like that,
it's really beautiful, isn't it?
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Yes, I think that people
living in villages here
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are more laid back, simple lifestyle,
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more people cycling and walking
or by horse and in carts...
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- Healthy way to live.
- Yes.
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- Well, thank you. Safe climbing.
- OK, thanks.
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Back on the road we head up
towards the Bicaz Lake,
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a man-made reservoir with pebble shores
and gentle waves
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that lap against the steep sides
of the Carpathian hills.
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This is an unlikely place for a holiday
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but the whole microculture
has sprung up here
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with restaurants,
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houseboats
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and a private beach club
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only accessible by water.
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That was a beautiful ride
around the Bicaz Lake,
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and look at what we found,
what a secluded spot.
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Over there is Ceahlău and the hills
that we drove through earlier on.
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When you've been on the bike
for about six hours in a stifling heat
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there's no better way
to cool off than this.
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I can't tell you how good that feels
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but what I lovely sensation,
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cool water in a hot day, absolute bliss.
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You can imagine what it must be like
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to watch the sunset
over the mountains here,
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with a cold beer or a glass of palinka.
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This is a landscape
Hollywood could easily employ
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as a backdrop for the constant stream
of fantasy sagas
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that grace our screens on a weekly basis.
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No surprise then
that one enterprising couple
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has built their own hobbit village
just outside Dobreni
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which is uncoincidentally our next stop.
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Mihaela, what was the inspiration
behind this extraordinary place?
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{\an8}We wished to restore moments
of the past, bring them back to present,
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to make a place where each of us
could reunite with the nature,
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experience a simple life,
things that make us happy,
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but little things that make us happy.
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It feels like there's
quite a talking influence here.
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Would that be fair to say?
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I think there are probably
influences from that movie too.
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Every house has a story doesn't it?
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Yes, there is a story behind each house.
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Ionuț has designed and built them,
most of the time alone,
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while I wrote the story
behind the village.
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We like the stories.
I think we all like the stories
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and when we were small kids
we all wanted to be
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either the knight
or the Prince Charming, the princess
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and then of course
we want to transpose them.
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You got a gallows over there.
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Don't children find it a bit shocking
when they come here?
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- No.
- No?
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First of all it's like an insight
into history.
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The torture devices are a part
of the history of each country, I think.
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No, they are really interested about
them and ask what they were used for,
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what do they stand for
and why those people were punished.
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And then I think there are things
they learn from the past,
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they aren't shocked.
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And maybe it also puts guests off
for misbehaving too much.
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- Ah, yes, of course!
- Watch out!
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The attention to detail I like as well
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because you've actually got
the trap door in the floor,
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it's not just like a model,
it looks like it could probably work.
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Yes, they could also work,
should we want it.
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And this is a bit low.
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I guess this must be a gallows
for hobbits.
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Bad hobbit!
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This is so cute!
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Memory fine mattress,
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just imagine lying here
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reading a copy of the Two Towers
or The Fellowship of the Ring
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by candlelight.
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Maybe in the winter time you've got logs
burning merrily in your stove
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and the flames flickering off the walls.
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Yes, I get it,
kids would go mad for this place.
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Just imagine you're stepping
into the pages of the book.
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I have a slightly easy job
getting in and out of the door as well.
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This next room
is where they put the naughty guests.
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This is where you put the kids,
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maybe not just kids.
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A dungeon! Don't get any ideas!
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00:18:41,960 --> 00:18:44,240
- Please let me out!
- No!
241
00:18:44,320 --> 00:18:45,560
Please, let me out!
242
00:18:45,640 --> 00:18:49,680
No! You must stay the whole night
because you have been very, very bad!
243
00:18:54,120 --> 00:18:54,920
This is fun too.
244
00:18:56,960 --> 00:18:58,720
It doesn't actually support the bed
245
00:19:00,120 --> 00:19:02,840
but it could definitely
support a pair of handcuffs.
246
00:19:11,200 --> 00:19:15,360
Refreshed and suitably chastened,
it was time to embark on a grand tour
247
00:19:15,440 --> 00:19:19,880
on some of Moldova's most pulchritudinous
orthodox monasteries.
248
00:19:22,200 --> 00:19:26,160
There is a large cluster of them
in the wild forests of Neamț county
249
00:19:26,240 --> 00:19:30,040
and it's possible to make a circuit
of some of the most dramatic,
250
00:19:30,120 --> 00:19:32,600
although I was wounded by the road.
251
00:19:34,760 --> 00:19:37,960
Away from towns and villages
it's slowly deteriorates
252
00:19:38,040 --> 00:19:42,120
as we cross dry riverbeds
and wind through ancient woodland.
253
00:19:46,040 --> 00:19:49,160
During the summertime
one thing remains the same:
254
00:19:49,240 --> 00:19:50,960
Wherever you are in the country,
255
00:19:53,240 --> 00:19:57,840
if there's water and a bit of pasture
you'll find Romanians camping out,
256
00:19:58,400 --> 00:20:03,640
enjoying a picnic or cooking
pork related products over a small fire.
257
00:20:11,920 --> 00:20:15,080
First stop is a sacred monastery
built in 1602.
258
00:20:17,440 --> 00:20:20,080
The church typifies Moldavian architecture
259
00:20:20,160 --> 00:20:24,840
of the end of the XVI century,
albeit with Valachian influences.
260
00:20:26,960 --> 00:20:31,200
It was completely burnt to the ground
in 1821 by the Ottomans,
261
00:20:31,280 --> 00:20:33,800
after which the whole complex was rebuilt.
262
00:20:36,800 --> 00:20:41,120
- Situated upstairs in the cloisters
- is the sacred chapel of St. - Mary
263
00:20:42,320 --> 00:20:45,200
which contains several holy relics
264
00:20:45,280 --> 00:20:48,120
and some useful idioms
for visiting pilgrims,
265
00:20:49,720 --> 00:20:53,480
as I find out from its curator,
Father Cleopa Sturzu.
266
00:20:56,480 --> 00:20:57,880
- God bless.
- God bless.
267
00:20:57,960 --> 00:20:59,840
- Welcome to us.
- Thank you.
268
00:20:59,920 --> 00:21:03,600
These are all words of advice.
269
00:21:03,680 --> 00:21:07,920
{\an8}Anger is a short madness.
Pain is a lesson.
270
00:21:08,440 --> 00:21:10,480
During the years of pain
I learned how to pray.
271
00:21:10,560 --> 00:21:14,000
You will be judged
according to your deeds.
272
00:21:14,080 --> 00:21:17,520
Always forgive the others, never yourself.
273
00:21:17,600 --> 00:21:20,320
Laziness is the mother of all sins.
274
00:21:20,400 --> 00:21:23,480
Slandering others is the biggest crime.
275
00:21:23,560 --> 00:21:26,720
A room without books
is like a soulless body.
276
00:21:26,800 --> 00:21:29,720
He who knows to soften souls,
knows it all.
277
00:21:29,800 --> 00:21:32,880
Nothing is freer than thought.
278
00:21:33,440 --> 00:21:34,360
These are all.
279
00:21:34,440 --> 00:21:36,480
This is very practical advice.
280
00:21:36,560 --> 00:21:41,240
The sort of thing if you live
your daily life by, you won't go far on.
281
00:21:41,320 --> 00:21:45,600
This was the author
of these sayings, correct?
282
00:21:45,680 --> 00:21:48,280
Father Vichentie Mălău
from Sfințișoara village
283
00:21:48,360 --> 00:21:49,800
wrote these sayings on the pew.
284
00:21:49,880 --> 00:21:54,760
You can actually see the skull
of the saint here beneath the glass,
285
00:21:54,840 --> 00:21:56,720
but they have left a small opening
286
00:21:56,800 --> 00:22:00,720
for people who would like
to obviously kiss the holy relic.
287
00:22:00,800 --> 00:22:04,880
The father was very merciful,
he was giving all the time.
288
00:22:05,800 --> 00:22:09,160
And because he was very merciful,
289
00:22:09,800 --> 00:22:12,520
after he passed away, his right hand,
up to the elbow,
290
00:22:12,600 --> 00:22:17,200
he used to bless and offer with,
did not rot and now smells of lilies.
291
00:22:17,280 --> 00:22:21,840
The father's head has a special smell.
Get closer to see for yourself.
292
00:22:26,720 --> 00:22:28,440
That's very unusual.
293
00:22:29,880 --> 00:22:34,160
It actually does...
the skull does smell of flowers.
294
00:22:37,640 --> 00:22:39,440
Extraordinary.
295
00:22:40,760 --> 00:22:41,880
Thank you very much.
296
00:22:41,960 --> 00:22:43,360
- God bless.
- God bless.
297
00:22:43,440 --> 00:22:46,520
You are welcome. God bless.
We'll be waiting for you again.
298
00:22:51,800 --> 00:22:55,160
Ten minutes further down the road
and we reach Sihăstria
299
00:22:58,000 --> 00:22:59,880
which according to church historians
300
00:22:59,960 --> 00:23:02,360
was founded during the reign
of Steven the Great.
301
00:23:05,680 --> 00:23:08,480
Happily I arrived just in time for lunch
302
00:23:08,960 --> 00:23:12,080
which is also being offered
to devout members of the public.
303
00:23:14,160 --> 00:23:18,080
I snack in for a bowl of thin
but delicious vegetable broth.
304
00:23:23,440 --> 00:23:26,960
It's just a thought but perhaps
most parishioners in the UK
305
00:23:27,040 --> 00:23:31,640
would pay attention to the sermon
if they were being fed at the same time.
306
00:23:37,160 --> 00:23:39,440
Following an obligatory visit
to the gift shop,
307
00:23:41,320 --> 00:23:43,880
we leave the tarmac behind once more...
308
00:23:49,280 --> 00:23:53,720
and journey upwards through the forest
on an increasingly precarious dirt track
309
00:23:53,800 --> 00:23:57,200
that was clearly not designed
for having motorcycles.
310
00:24:00,880 --> 00:24:04,640
The third monastery on our circuit
lies high in the Sihla mountains,
311
00:24:05,680 --> 00:24:10,240
famed as an area for religious hermits
from the XIII century AD
312
00:24:10,800 --> 00:24:12,240
and you can see why.
313
00:24:13,960 --> 00:24:16,240
Stories tell that Stephen the Great
314
00:24:16,320 --> 00:24:19,760
once took a shortcut through here
on his way to Neamț monastery,
315
00:24:19,840 --> 00:24:23,800
chancing upon an old hermit
who lived in a cottage under a rock.
316
00:24:24,560 --> 00:24:27,160
Being deeply impressed by his piousness,
317
00:24:27,240 --> 00:24:30,960
the prince had a church built
from the wood of a single fir tree
318
00:24:31,040 --> 00:24:32,960
in which the hermit could pray for him.
319
00:24:34,520 --> 00:24:38,040
But this area achieved
even greater spiritual importance
320
00:24:38,120 --> 00:24:42,000
when in the XVII century
a nun by the name of Teodora
321
00:24:42,080 --> 00:24:45,960
turned her back on society
and lived here in a cave,
322
00:24:46,040 --> 00:24:48,520
making prophecies and performing miracles.
323
00:24:54,360 --> 00:24:57,880
With some relief we arrived safe
at Sihla monastery
324
00:24:57,960 --> 00:25:00,120
which is dedicated to her memory...
325
00:25:02,120 --> 00:25:04,080
and huddles beneath a cliff
326
00:25:04,160 --> 00:25:07,480
with panoramic views
across the surrounding hills.
327
00:25:09,200 --> 00:25:12,400
- I am here to learn more
- about the life of St. - Teodora
328
00:25:12,480 --> 00:25:16,720
and find out why she is one of Romania's
most revered spiritual figures.
329
00:25:18,880 --> 00:25:21,880
I was joined by father Casian
who kindly agreed
330
00:25:21,960 --> 00:25:26,760
to take me see her cave,
now a holy site for visiting pilgrims.
331
00:25:27,800 --> 00:25:30,640
{\an8}The monastery was made
because she lived here
332
00:25:30,720 --> 00:25:33,560
{\an8}and she was like a model to us
333
00:25:34,280 --> 00:25:35,800
and we try to follow her life...
334
00:25:35,880 --> 00:25:37,880
- But you don't live in a cave.
- No, we don't.
335
00:25:37,960 --> 00:25:39,520
It's very hard to live in the cave.
336
00:25:39,600 --> 00:25:42,920
Only the ones that have holy spirit
can live in a cave.
337
00:25:43,000 --> 00:25:46,360
You're telling me that some scientists
tried to work out how long you could live...
338
00:25:46,440 --> 00:25:51,360
Yes, they tried to find out how much
a person can live here in the cave
339
00:25:51,440 --> 00:25:56,440
and they had the conclusion that
no matter if you are a man or a woman
340
00:25:56,520 --> 00:25:58,880
you can't live more than two years
in a cave.
341
00:25:58,960 --> 00:26:02,000
- Because you also have brutal winters.
- The terms are very rough.
342
00:26:02,080 --> 00:26:05,840
- How long did she spend here?
- Like 20 years, only in the cave.
343
00:26:05,920 --> 00:26:09,040
- This is the place we call
- "The Fountain of St. - Teodora"
344
00:26:09,120 --> 00:26:12,720
because this is the place
where she drank water.
345
00:26:12,800 --> 00:26:15,200
When she was old,
she couldn't go in the forest
346
00:26:15,280 --> 00:26:17,400
to go to a river to drink water
347
00:26:17,480 --> 00:26:21,640
so God always give rain for her
to drink water.
348
00:26:22,880 --> 00:26:27,160
So she was up on that rock, made a hole
349
00:26:27,240 --> 00:26:29,760
and when the rain comes the water...
350
00:26:29,840 --> 00:26:33,120
It could pour for her...
And she was drinking from over there.
351
00:26:33,200 --> 00:26:36,680
In this time that water is holy water
352
00:26:36,760 --> 00:26:41,360
because people, if they drink from
that water, they get cured of diseases.
353
00:26:42,360 --> 00:26:44,960
This is the place
where many hermits live here.
354
00:26:45,040 --> 00:26:48,920
In this time now there are hermits,
they live here
355
00:26:49,000 --> 00:26:52,520
- but we don't know about them.
- So you're saying in these mountains...
356
00:26:52,600 --> 00:26:55,000
there are currently hermits living
in these mountains right now.
357
00:26:55,080 --> 00:26:55,920
Yes.
358
00:26:56,440 --> 00:26:58,600
- But we're not sure where.
- No.
359
00:26:58,680 --> 00:27:00,960
And they are out there, with the bears
and the wild bison...
360
00:27:01,040 --> 00:27:02,680
- Every day.
- Every day.
361
00:27:05,240 --> 00:27:07,000
And this was her home.
362
00:27:07,080 --> 00:27:09,520
- For years.
- Twenty years.
363
00:27:10,200 --> 00:27:11,800
This rock might be dry.
364
00:27:12,360 --> 00:27:15,640
Yes it's dry now,
but most of the time it rains.
365
00:27:15,720 --> 00:27:18,560
Yes, because these rocks are really damp.
It's so peaceful here.
366
00:27:18,640 --> 00:27:23,120
You feel her blessing,
you feel her presence here,
367
00:27:23,200 --> 00:27:28,280
so people come here get the blessing
and they go home peaceful.
368
00:27:28,360 --> 00:27:32,440
- Do the monks come here every day?
- Yes, we change.
369
00:27:32,520 --> 00:27:36,400
Some times monks come in the morning,
in the evening, in the night...
370
00:27:36,480 --> 00:27:38,800
And you have services here as well.
371
00:27:38,880 --> 00:27:43,920
We have a priest called Father Alexie
and he makes holy liturgy here.
372
00:27:44,480 --> 00:27:47,160
Usually they make it until four-five
in the morning.
373
00:27:47,240 --> 00:27:50,120
So you have a lot of interaction
with the outside world.
374
00:27:50,720 --> 00:27:51,680
Yes, all the time.
375
00:27:52,720 --> 00:27:55,760
People, all kind of people
from all over the world.
376
00:27:55,840 --> 00:27:59,240
I spoke to one of your brothers
before coming here
377
00:27:59,960 --> 00:28:02,000
and he was living in Bristol
till a year ago.
378
00:28:02,080 --> 00:28:04,760
- Yes.
- Yes, where I went to university.
379
00:28:04,840 --> 00:28:05,640
He knew about you.
380
00:28:05,720 --> 00:28:06,600
He knew about...
381
00:28:06,680 --> 00:28:09,480
- He said...
- He was... "follow me on the channel."
382
00:28:09,560 --> 00:28:11,800
He said: "you were a Bristol"
and I said: "Yeah".
383
00:28:11,880 --> 00:28:17,880
And he was a delivery guy
and now he is here in this monastery.
384
00:28:17,960 --> 00:28:20,520
- He found God also and studied...
- Even a Bristol.
385
00:28:22,360 --> 00:28:25,480
So everyone follows her dream, his dream...
386
00:28:26,760 --> 00:28:28,320
like Saint Teodora did.
387
00:28:33,440 --> 00:28:36,320
Having given father Casian
a lift back to the monastery
388
00:28:36,400 --> 00:28:37,720
I was amused to hear
389
00:28:37,800 --> 00:28:40,880
that this was the first Harley
they had seen on the premises.
390
00:28:40,960 --> 00:28:44,040
And I received a flurry
of questions from the monks.
391
00:28:48,240 --> 00:28:51,960
My hand is fatter than yours,
I am fatter than you.
392
00:28:55,480 --> 00:28:59,480
Aside from being deeply spiritual,
are also very down to earth
393
00:29:00,280 --> 00:29:04,280
as able to debate culinary tips
or the merits of the new iPhone
394
00:29:04,360 --> 00:29:07,120
as they are totally passionate about God.
395
00:29:10,120 --> 00:29:14,200
Armed with two bottles of home made
holy wine, courtesy of the monks,
396
00:29:14,280 --> 00:29:17,800
I wound and slide my way down
the other side of the mountains
397
00:29:17,880 --> 00:29:21,040
towards the fourth and final
monastery on our circuit.
398
00:29:23,600 --> 00:29:26,200
Agapia is more beautiful and decorative
399
00:29:26,280 --> 00:29:28,760
than many of Moldova's other monasteries
400
00:29:28,840 --> 00:29:30,240
not least because it's home
401
00:29:30,320 --> 00:29:33,440
of the second largest population
of nuns in Romania.
402
00:29:36,960 --> 00:29:39,320
The buildings are architecturally complex
403
00:29:39,400 --> 00:29:43,720
combining byzantine, neoclassic
and Romanian styles.
404
00:29:44,880 --> 00:29:48,080
Courtyards and walk ways are lined
with bright flowers
405
00:29:51,200 --> 00:29:53,600
and the monastery's museum
guards a collection
406
00:29:53,680 --> 00:29:55,800
of historic tools and artifacts,
407
00:29:55,880 --> 00:29:57,240
medieval art,
408
00:29:57,320 --> 00:30:00,080
manuscripts and religious objects.
409
00:30:03,400 --> 00:30:07,640
But what makes Agapia unmissable
is its interior frescoes
410
00:30:07,720 --> 00:30:12,400
painted in 1858 by celebrated
Romanian artist Nicolae Grigorescu.
411
00:30:15,960 --> 00:30:19,920
The sisters are also committed
to the creative aspect of spiritual life.
412
00:30:22,840 --> 00:30:24,400
And there are several workshops
413
00:30:24,480 --> 00:30:27,600
dedicated to traditional
crafts like carpet making.
414
00:30:29,680 --> 00:30:31,000
As times marches on,
415
00:30:31,080 --> 00:30:34,560
isolated monastic orders
like Sihla and Agapia
416
00:30:34,640 --> 00:30:38,120
are subject to more contact
with secular society.
417
00:30:40,080 --> 00:30:43,160
For many this assimilation
provides an opportunity
418
00:30:43,240 --> 00:30:45,560
to share their spiritual life
with outsiders
419
00:30:48,200 --> 00:30:51,000
as is the case of our next location,
420
00:30:51,080 --> 00:30:55,240
the stunning Sturdza estate
around 70 km from Iași.
421
00:31:00,960 --> 00:31:03,600
Built on the site
of a preexisting manor house,
422
00:31:03,680 --> 00:31:07,920
Sturdza palace was designed to emulate
the feudal castles of the west,
423
00:31:08,960 --> 00:31:13,440
as well as the Palace of Culture in Iași
as seen in season one.
424
00:31:15,600 --> 00:31:20,080
The last heir Elena Cantacuzino,
who became a nun in later life,
425
00:31:20,160 --> 00:31:22,080
donated the estate to the church.
426
00:31:23,160 --> 00:31:27,840
Today, Sturdza is the only castle
in Romania owned and run by nuns
427
00:31:28,400 --> 00:31:30,440
and is open to the public for day trips,
428
00:31:30,960 --> 00:31:34,280
with rooms on the estate for those
wanting to over night.
429
00:31:35,520 --> 00:31:39,960
I was met by manager Elena Ionescu
and resident chef Marcela Crisu
430
00:31:40,040 --> 00:31:43,760
who would gone to the trouble
of arranging a culinary demonstration
431
00:31:43,840 --> 00:31:47,680
featuring a popular local recipe
of chicken broth or soup.
432
00:31:48,800 --> 00:31:50,800
Elena tell me what's cooking.
433
00:31:50,880 --> 00:31:53,000
{\an8}This is a rooster borsch.
434
00:31:53,080 --> 00:31:57,080
We have here all the ingredients,
and our natural and funny looking rooster
435
00:31:57,160 --> 00:31:59,040
and our home made borsch.
436
00:31:59,120 --> 00:32:02,920
- You're cooking with the claws?
- Yes.
437
00:32:03,720 --> 00:32:06,680
This is a delicacy
for some people including my dog.
438
00:32:07,720 --> 00:32:11,840
- We are actually eating it here.
- You are eating it here as well.
439
00:32:12,400 --> 00:32:13,600
And of course the main ingredient,
440
00:32:13,680 --> 00:32:17,040
the thing that makes it unique is
the borsch, which is home made, isn't it?
441
00:32:17,120 --> 00:32:20,080
Yes, actually we are
making it from scratch.
442
00:32:20,160 --> 00:32:22,120
- So we are ready to go.
- Yes.
443
00:32:22,200 --> 00:32:26,560
I mean we can't wait any longer, that
rooster is gonna cook itself in this heat.
444
00:32:40,320 --> 00:32:43,600
While the broth was simmering,
I had a quick nose around the palace
445
00:32:44,240 --> 00:32:47,480
which was built by newly wed
landowner George Sturdza
446
00:32:47,560 --> 00:32:49,960
in honor of his beloved wife Maria.
447
00:32:51,360 --> 00:32:56,520
It was a wedding present that took
over 24 years to complete
448
00:32:57,160 --> 00:33:03,640
and during that entire time she was
responsible for all the decoration,
449
00:33:03,720 --> 00:33:08,440
the art, the paintings and the mirrors
that adorn these walls and ceilings.
450
00:33:08,520 --> 00:33:13,760
Have a look at this,
mythical creatures, dragon, gryphon.
451
00:33:14,320 --> 00:33:18,760
The attention to detail
is really quite breathtaking
452
00:33:18,840 --> 00:33:25,200
and a fitting tribute to a family
whose motto was
453
00:33:25,280 --> 00:33:28,880
"in a beauty shines forth everywhere",
454
00:33:28,960 --> 00:33:33,280
and literally did create beauty
in every single room,
455
00:33:33,360 --> 00:33:35,880
in every space in this building.
456
00:33:37,440 --> 00:33:42,800
This central nave, because the house
is laid out much like a church,
457
00:33:43,360 --> 00:33:45,880
contained one of the biggest libraries
of its day.
458
00:33:45,960 --> 00:33:50,000
There were bookshelves all the way down
this entire room.
459
00:33:50,080 --> 00:33:53,080
What's very sad is not only the books
but everything else
460
00:33:53,160 --> 00:33:56,600
was taken systematically
by numerous people.
461
00:33:57,200 --> 00:34:00,760
So, first the Germans occupied this area
462
00:34:00,840 --> 00:34:03,680
and they helped themselves
with the best bits.
463
00:34:04,280 --> 00:34:07,560
Then the Russians came
and evicted the Germans
464
00:34:07,640 --> 00:34:11,360
and reclaimed the territory
and they helped themselves as well
465
00:34:11,440 --> 00:34:14,960
with whatever the Germans had not taken,
then the locals came
466
00:34:15,040 --> 00:34:17,520
and took what that Germans and Russians
had not taken
467
00:34:17,600 --> 00:34:20,840
and with anything left, communists had it
468
00:34:20,920 --> 00:34:23,560
when they appropriated this building
469
00:34:23,639 --> 00:34:27,600
and turned it into a hospital
for children with disabilities,
470
00:34:27,679 --> 00:34:30,280
which it remained for many years,
471
00:34:30,360 --> 00:34:33,280
until the 90s, when it was restituted
back to the church.
472
00:34:35,400 --> 00:34:37,560
After browsing the palace
473
00:34:37,639 --> 00:34:40,880
I joined Mother Superior
Parascheva Calmațuianu
474
00:34:40,960 --> 00:34:43,040
for lunch at the adjacent restaurant.
475
00:34:44,440 --> 00:34:46,600
I never come across this
before in Romania.
476
00:34:46,679 --> 00:34:51,840
You have an incredible building
that you are restoring and looking after
477
00:34:51,920 --> 00:34:53,760
as well as having the monastery
478
00:34:53,840 --> 00:34:57,360
in a day to day existence
of monastic life.
479
00:34:57,960 --> 00:34:59,360
{\an8}Yes, it has its challenges
480
00:34:59,440 --> 00:35:03,400
{\an8}because you want to give
the monument its proper status
481
00:35:03,480 --> 00:35:10,000
and its proper way of developing
but also you have to respect our way of...
482
00:35:10,080 --> 00:35:12,080
- Of living as well.
- Yes.
483
00:35:12,160 --> 00:35:16,440
And that is the plan,
to fully restore the castle in time?
484
00:35:16,520 --> 00:35:18,080
Absolutely. Yes.
485
00:35:18,160 --> 00:35:23,040
And that will require I imagine
quite a lot of help and funds to do.
486
00:35:23,120 --> 00:35:26,440
It is much more expensive
to restore a building
487
00:35:26,520 --> 00:35:30,280
than to build a new one
so that is also a challenge
488
00:35:30,360 --> 00:35:34,800
and of course the castle is a monument
and with a lot of details
489
00:35:34,880 --> 00:35:38,800
the interior paintings
and the exterior decorations
490
00:35:38,880 --> 00:35:42,520
which will involve a lot of work
for them to be restored properly.
491
00:35:42,600 --> 00:35:45,880
I can't believe how colorful it was inside
492
00:35:45,960 --> 00:35:50,360
and every space every aspect
every wall and ceiling
493
00:35:50,440 --> 00:35:55,120
was covered in prints and designs
and murals and art.
494
00:35:55,640 --> 00:36:00,400
What I want you to understand
is that George and Maria Sturdza
495
00:36:00,480 --> 00:36:04,200
who built the castle,
were people wanting to make this place
496
00:36:04,280 --> 00:36:08,040
a cultural place not just a place
to enjoy life.
497
00:36:08,120 --> 00:36:12,720
So you would like to see in the future
the house back to its former glory.
498
00:36:13,280 --> 00:36:15,840
I want to see it as a living museum
499
00:36:15,920 --> 00:36:18,880
where people could come and experience
500
00:36:18,960 --> 00:36:21,720
what would be like to live in the past.
501
00:36:22,920 --> 00:36:26,040
I want you to be immersed in the history
502
00:36:26,120 --> 00:36:28,800
as was one hundred years ago.
503
00:36:29,360 --> 00:36:31,440
Superb!
504
00:36:33,320 --> 00:36:35,200
I can really taste the borsch.
505
00:36:37,080 --> 00:36:40,400
- It's not too sour, I hope.
- No, it's just right.
506
00:36:40,480 --> 00:36:43,640
It's delicious. Really good.
You feel healthy when you eat it.
507
00:36:43,720 --> 00:36:47,800
It's an acquired taste.
You have to grow into it.
508
00:36:47,880 --> 00:36:50,160
It's slightly pungent, but in a good way.
509
00:36:51,720 --> 00:36:53,880
An hours drive brings us to Iași,
510
00:36:56,120 --> 00:37:00,520
the country's second largest city
and widely held as its cultural capital.
511
00:37:03,640 --> 00:37:07,080
In fact, famous historian Nicolae Iorga
once declared
512
00:37:07,160 --> 00:37:10,400
that it should be no Romanian
who does not know of it.
513
00:37:11,800 --> 00:37:15,840
My base of the night is the Grand
Hotel Traian in the central square.
514
00:37:17,200 --> 00:37:20,520
Built in 1882,
this is among the best examples
515
00:37:20,600 --> 00:37:22,960
of neoclassical architecture in the city.
516
00:37:24,200 --> 00:37:28,880
But what it makes it unique is that
this hotel is designed by Gustave Eiffel
517
00:37:31,480 --> 00:37:36,680
and it's hosted a firmament of VIPs
during its long and illustrious life.
518
00:37:40,920 --> 00:37:46,200
Apparently, Greta Garbo stayed
here in 1934 under a false name.
519
00:37:54,400 --> 00:37:58,840
For centuries, Iași has been a playground
for writers, artists,
520
00:37:58,920 --> 00:38:00,680
poets and musicians.
521
00:38:00,760 --> 00:38:03,920
The next morning
I was back on the trail on one of them
522
00:38:04,840 --> 00:38:08,040
which required a visit
to historic Copou park,
523
00:38:08,120 --> 00:38:09,360
the oldest in Moldavia.
524
00:38:12,040 --> 00:38:14,600
Lurking within ten acres of wooded groves
525
00:38:14,680 --> 00:38:17,360
and flowers
interspersed by ornate statues,
526
00:38:18,520 --> 00:38:22,320
stands one of Romania's
most important natural monuments.
527
00:38:22,400 --> 00:38:23,680
EMINESCU'S LINDEN TREE
528
00:38:29,120 --> 00:38:32,960
Last time I was in Bucovina
we visited Mihai Eminescu's house,
529
00:38:33,040 --> 00:38:35,720
but it was here, beneath this silver lime,
530
00:38:35,800 --> 00:38:38,160
that he wrote some of his greatest poems.
531
00:38:40,480 --> 00:38:43,960
It's hardly surprising really
because the silver lime or linden tree
532
00:38:44,040 --> 00:38:45,880
has remedial properties.
533
00:38:45,960 --> 00:38:49,120
You can take the flowers
and make them into a herbal tea...
534
00:38:49,840 --> 00:38:51,880
This one is 500 years old.
535
00:38:52,440 --> 00:38:56,160
You can still imagine Eminescu
sitting beneath it,
536
00:38:56,240 --> 00:38:58,160
scribbling away on his notepad.
537
00:39:00,360 --> 00:39:06,040
Days go past and days come still
All is old and all is new
538
00:39:06,120 --> 00:39:10,520
What is well and what is ill
we imagine and construe
539
00:39:11,120 --> 00:39:16,400
Do not hope and do not fear
Waves that leap by waves must fall
540
00:39:16,920 --> 00:39:22,120
Should they praise or should they jeer
Look but coldly on it all.
541
00:39:33,080 --> 00:39:37,240
As well as artists and writers
like Ion Creangă and Mihai Eminescu,
542
00:39:37,320 --> 00:39:41,880
Iași has also been a seat of learning
for more practical academic pursuits.
543
00:39:42,960 --> 00:39:45,880
If you have the chance
it's worth dropping in
544
00:39:45,960 --> 00:39:50,440
the Gheorghe Asachi technical university
a few minutes walk from the park.
545
00:39:51,960 --> 00:39:56,160
Aside from being the first university
to teach engineering in Romania,
546
00:39:57,240 --> 00:39:59,520
it boasts what has been widely voted
547
00:39:59,600 --> 00:40:02,480
the second most beautiful library
in the world,
548
00:40:02,560 --> 00:40:05,920
designed in 1860
by French architect Louis Blanc.
549
00:40:10,520 --> 00:40:13,640
This came as a surprise
for local management
550
00:40:13,720 --> 00:40:17,800
as until recently few people
were even aware of its existence.
551
00:40:20,320 --> 00:40:24,200
Today you can saunter bookishly
beneath its hollowed eves,
552
00:40:24,280 --> 00:40:29,040
even if you don't have time to peruse
any of its one million or so volumes.
553
00:40:32,800 --> 00:40:35,280
This library presents yet another example
554
00:40:35,360 --> 00:40:39,680
of the level of sophistication
and grandeur that Romania possessed
555
00:40:39,760 --> 00:40:42,200
and still in many cases
possesses to this day
556
00:40:42,960 --> 00:40:45,240
and it's very fortunate
that it's still with us.
557
00:40:45,320 --> 00:40:49,000
It was bombed heavily in the WWII
and due to be condemned,
558
00:40:49,080 --> 00:40:51,320
but thanks to efforts
of the local teachers
559
00:40:51,400 --> 00:40:53,120
and students of the Polytechnic,
560
00:40:53,200 --> 00:40:55,560
they came together, raised the funds
561
00:40:55,640 --> 00:41:00,760
to have it stabilized and gradually
restored to its former glory.
562
00:41:07,160 --> 00:41:11,520
Being a Mecca of Academia,
doesn't mean Iași is in any way stuffy.
563
00:41:12,880 --> 00:41:16,320
As the sun goes down,
hundreds of bars and restaurants
564
00:41:16,400 --> 00:41:19,400
open their doors to locals, tourists
565
00:41:19,480 --> 00:41:24,720
and a burgeoning population of students
eager for another night on the tiles.
566
00:41:26,960 --> 00:41:30,520
What I love about Iași
is it's got a cool layback vibe
567
00:41:30,600 --> 00:41:33,160
and being the original city of learning
in Romania
568
00:41:33,240 --> 00:41:36,000
and in fact one of the largest
university cities today,
569
00:41:36,080 --> 00:41:38,840
it feels it has a youthful
progressive feel to it,
570
00:41:38,920 --> 00:41:42,680
bars and clubs are open late,
it's packed, it's humming
571
00:41:42,760 --> 00:41:45,840
and the Christmas lights are still on
in the middle of summer.
572
00:41:56,920 --> 00:42:00,520
Before leaving Iași, I took
a quick stroll through the old town
573
00:42:01,160 --> 00:42:05,400
passed the stunning national theater
down on the boulevard Stephen the Great
574
00:42:06,560 --> 00:42:10,800
framed by the Palace of Culture
at the far end, as seen in season one.
575
00:42:14,640 --> 00:42:17,760
It's ironic that a country
that still has a reputation
576
00:42:17,840 --> 00:42:20,080
for communist cold war construction
577
00:42:20,160 --> 00:42:23,080
is so replete with architectural marvels.
578
00:42:29,120 --> 00:42:32,320
A few miles from the city,
down a horrendously pitted road
579
00:42:32,880 --> 00:42:34,960
on the edge of a town called Ungheni
580
00:42:35,040 --> 00:42:37,960
lies one of the least well known
and unassuming.
581
00:42:41,200 --> 00:42:43,040
Spanning the river Prut,
582
00:42:43,120 --> 00:42:46,200
between the Moldova the region
and Moldova the state
583
00:42:46,280 --> 00:42:50,160
lies a rather ordinary looking iron bridge
584
00:42:50,240 --> 00:42:52,520
of a provenance extraordinaire.
585
00:42:58,960 --> 00:43:03,440
France may have the Eiffel tower,
but Romania has got the Eiffel bridge,
586
00:43:03,520 --> 00:43:06,720
and it's unmistakable if you look
at the rivets and the bolts
587
00:43:06,800 --> 00:43:09,200
you can see it's a mark of Gustave Eiffel
588
00:43:09,280 --> 00:43:10,800
in the way it is structured.
589
00:43:10,880 --> 00:43:16,280
And the bridge is opened by him
in 1877 on 21st of April.
590
00:43:16,920 --> 00:43:21,440
Three days later the Russians
declared war on the Ottoman empire
591
00:43:21,520 --> 00:43:26,440
and troops came pouring through Ungheni
presumably across this very bridge.
592
00:43:29,080 --> 00:43:33,120
It does need a bit of TLC though.
If you see, the paint is peeling off
593
00:43:33,200 --> 00:43:35,600
and the iron work is starting to rust.
594
00:43:35,680 --> 00:43:40,000
Look at this wonderful structure.
This is a piece of Romania's heritage
595
00:43:40,080 --> 00:43:43,720
and sitting here like a secret
hidden in the trees.
596
00:44:04,040 --> 00:44:07,200
A little north of Iași
is an expansive countryside
597
00:44:07,280 --> 00:44:08,800
and sleepy communities
598
00:44:08,880 --> 00:44:11,560
that are largely undiscovered
in terms of tourism.
599
00:44:16,120 --> 00:44:18,760
I have come here
to the village of Ten Poles
600
00:44:18,840 --> 00:44:22,600
to meet friend and resident
folk music expert Bogdan Simion
601
00:44:22,680 --> 00:44:26,840
to learn about a unique take
on a traditional brass band.
602
00:44:35,400 --> 00:44:37,680
Costică has quite the hysterical dog.
603
00:44:37,760 --> 00:44:40,120
Small dogs and large motorcycles.
604
00:44:41,040 --> 00:44:43,960
{\an8}- Welcome to Ten Poles.
- Have you ever had déjà vu?
605
00:44:44,800 --> 00:44:47,000
- Good to see you, man.
- Good to see you Charlie.
606
00:44:47,080 --> 00:44:50,120
- This is Costică Panțîru.
- Nice to meet you. Many thanks.
607
00:44:50,760 --> 00:44:51,960
Thank you so much.
608
00:44:52,040 --> 00:44:54,680
- And let's meet the the gang.
- Of course.
609
00:44:54,760 --> 00:44:55,960
- Hello!
- Ciprian.
610
00:44:56,040 --> 00:44:59,160
- This is the flugel horn soprano.
- Nice to meet you.
611
00:44:59,240 --> 00:45:00,280
Glad to meet you.
612
00:45:00,360 --> 00:45:01,960
- And this is the baritone.
- Sorin.
613
00:45:02,760 --> 00:45:03,960
Nice to meet you.
614
00:45:06,080 --> 00:45:08,480
What is so unique about the village here?
615
00:45:08,560 --> 00:45:14,120
The village before 1860
it was called "Ursari"
616
00:45:14,680 --> 00:45:16,200
which translates as "bear tamers"
617
00:45:16,280 --> 00:45:21,080
so their parents and grand parents would
tame bears from the forests around here.
618
00:45:21,640 --> 00:45:26,960
Alexandru Ioan Cuza,
the famous ruler of Romania,
619
00:45:27,560 --> 00:45:31,160
gave them ten poles or ten rods of land.
620
00:45:31,240 --> 00:45:35,840
This is why is called Zece Prăjini,
so they would count ten of these...
621
00:45:35,920 --> 00:45:38,320
- And that was their patch.
- Their patch of land.
622
00:45:38,400 --> 00:45:41,840
It was the first project
coming from the Romanian state
623
00:45:41,920 --> 00:45:47,880
to give land and to encourage the Roma
from here to practice agriculture.
624
00:45:47,960 --> 00:45:50,000
They still raise pigs to this day.
625
00:45:50,080 --> 00:45:54,040
So this was really the first attempt
by anyone in Romania
626
00:45:54,120 --> 00:45:56,880
to make an itinerant population
a sedentary one.
627
00:45:56,960 --> 00:46:02,960
Exactly, that was nine years after
the Roma were liberated from slavery
628
00:46:03,040 --> 00:46:04,440
so that was very early.
629
00:46:04,520 --> 00:46:07,720
- It's quite progressive really.
- It is because he was a freemason
630
00:46:07,800 --> 00:46:10,880
and because he was very much
in contact with western circles.
631
00:46:10,960 --> 00:46:15,200
So these guys they play across
he country or locally or where?
632
00:46:15,800 --> 00:46:20,560
More locally but they collaborated
in very funky fusion projects,
633
00:46:20,640 --> 00:46:22,360
like they collaborated for a long time
634
00:46:22,440 --> 00:46:26,040
with the famous 60s drummer,
Ovidiu Lipan Ţăndărică,
635
00:46:26,120 --> 00:46:27,920
from the original band Phoenix.
636
00:46:28,000 --> 00:46:30,200
Their brass music
is known across the world.
637
00:46:30,280 --> 00:46:33,040
They played in Japan,
they played in the United States...
638
00:46:33,120 --> 00:46:36,480
And they had no music teachers
except their parents.
639
00:46:36,560 --> 00:46:39,200
No, they learned
from generation to generation,
640
00:46:39,280 --> 00:46:41,040
their parents taught them,
641
00:46:41,120 --> 00:46:43,160
their grandparents taught
their parents and so on.
642
00:46:43,240 --> 00:46:45,680
This whole street, only brass musicians.
643
00:46:45,760 --> 00:46:46,640
Do they sing?
644
00:46:46,720 --> 00:46:50,440
Most brass bands were purely instrumental
645
00:46:51,320 --> 00:46:54,000
and in the rare instances
when they sing with their voice,
646
00:46:54,080 --> 00:46:55,960
which we are going to do today,
647
00:46:56,480 --> 00:46:58,960
the songs were of course
for the Romanian majority.
648
00:46:59,600 --> 00:47:02,800
It's kind of like the lăutar
back in Oltenia.
649
00:47:02,880 --> 00:47:03,680
Exactly.
650
00:47:03,760 --> 00:47:07,040
They are the custodians
of the musical tradition of Romania.
651
00:47:07,120 --> 00:47:12,480
And very old wedding rituals,
very old funeral rituals
652
00:47:12,560 --> 00:47:15,280
that they know better
than the Romanian counterpart
653
00:47:15,360 --> 00:47:17,360
even if the traditions are Romanian.
654
00:47:48,640 --> 00:47:49,720
And what was that song about?
655
00:47:49,800 --> 00:47:52,920
The first one was the classic
Bid farewell, bride,
656
00:47:53,000 --> 00:47:55,560
but what is very particular
of this interpretation
657
00:47:55,640 --> 00:47:57,840
is that it sounds like a funeral march.
658
00:47:58,400 --> 00:48:02,720
This is probably the oldest version
of the bride's song that I could find
659
00:48:02,800 --> 00:48:06,040
because it seems that the girl
when she becomes a wife
660
00:48:06,120 --> 00:48:07,440
she is practically dead.
661
00:48:07,520 --> 00:48:09,800
- She is going to her doom.
- Exactly.
662
00:48:09,880 --> 00:48:12,960
So the song sounds like a funeral song
663
00:48:13,040 --> 00:48:16,480
and the text is about the bride
leaving home.
664
00:48:16,560 --> 00:48:20,600
It has that ominous imminence
of an incoming train.
665
00:48:20,680 --> 00:48:24,480
Exactly, look at it.
As for the second song...
666
00:49:15,240 --> 00:49:18,880
The baseline obviously doesn't change
every time they play,
667
00:49:18,960 --> 00:49:21,840
but I am guessing there's
a bit of extemporization
668
00:49:21,920 --> 00:49:26,280
it's a bit like The Grateful Dead,
you never hear the same song twice.
669
00:49:26,360 --> 00:49:30,000
And they cannot play it exactly twice
and there is this battle
670
00:49:30,080 --> 00:49:36,240
between the piccolo clarinet in E
and the flugelhorn soprano
671
00:49:36,320 --> 00:49:37,640
they always battle each other.
672
00:49:37,720 --> 00:49:40,240
- So there is like a...
- Yes, exactly.
673
00:49:40,960 --> 00:49:42,480
You couldn't write this down, could you?
674
00:49:42,560 --> 00:49:45,640
No. It's very hard.
It would be close to impossible.
675
00:49:45,720 --> 00:49:48,880
- It's a lot of freestyling.
- Of course, improvisation.
676
00:49:48,960 --> 00:49:50,760
They are basically a taraf
677
00:49:50,840 --> 00:49:53,520
but with a very special
combination of the instruments.
678
00:49:54,800 --> 00:49:56,280
One thing that the Republic
679
00:49:56,360 --> 00:50:00,760
and the historic province of Moldova
have in common is viticulture.
680
00:50:03,120 --> 00:50:05,840
As far back
as the ancient Greeks and Romans
681
00:50:05,920 --> 00:50:07,360
it was widely acknowledged
682
00:50:07,440 --> 00:50:11,360
that Romanian soils
produce superior quality grapes.
683
00:50:11,440 --> 00:50:13,440
And archeological evidence suggests
684
00:50:13,520 --> 00:50:17,960
that wine making actually began
in this region over 4000 years ago.
685
00:50:21,760 --> 00:50:24,240
Within the greater wine regions of Moldova
686
00:50:24,320 --> 00:50:28,360
there are specific areas
that yield exceptional cuvees,
687
00:50:28,440 --> 00:50:31,080
like the hills and valleys
around the town of Huși.
688
00:50:32,720 --> 00:50:35,960
Here an aspirational new winery
in the village of Averești
689
00:50:36,600 --> 00:50:41,400
is gaining international recognition
for its stable of world winning blends.
690
00:50:44,480 --> 00:50:49,600
The higher altitude combined with cooler
temperatures and mineral rich soils
691
00:50:49,680 --> 00:50:53,120
is perfectly suited
for varieties like Busuioaca,
692
00:50:53,200 --> 00:50:57,840
Zghihara, Royal Fetească
Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet.
693
00:50:59,280 --> 00:51:04,280
Averești also hosts group tastings
and tours of this historic cellar
694
00:51:04,360 --> 00:51:07,840
which still houses an impressive haul
of vintage bottles
695
00:51:07,920 --> 00:51:13,160
ordered, laid down and stored in vain
for the late Nicolae Ceaușescu.
696
00:51:16,360 --> 00:51:18,800
There are also
a growing number of wineries
697
00:51:18,880 --> 00:51:20,560
that offer overnight accommodation
698
00:51:21,160 --> 00:51:24,480
for those who want to sample
the merchandise in situ
699
00:51:24,560 --> 00:51:29,360
without the inconvenience of falling
prey to Romanians "zero alcohol" policy.
700
00:51:30,480 --> 00:51:34,680
One of this is Panciu, on the edge of
the Carpathian foot hills near Focșani.
701
00:51:35,240 --> 00:51:38,200
I dropped in for dinner
with complimentary wine pairing
702
00:51:38,720 --> 00:51:42,680
and a night of luxury
in Panciu's new designer hotel.
703
00:51:46,800 --> 00:51:48,600
This is my kind of room.
704
00:51:49,640 --> 00:51:55,360
Stylish, understated, plenty of light,
views on both sides,
705
00:51:56,360 --> 00:51:59,240
large bed, large television and...
706
00:52:01,960 --> 00:52:06,960
Yes! A large bath!
Sometimes people just get it right.
707
00:52:11,080 --> 00:52:12,480
- Cheers, Alex.
- Thank you.
708
00:52:12,560 --> 00:52:18,760
This is how I envisage wine tourism,
you know, to happen in Romania.
709
00:52:18,840 --> 00:52:21,600
{\an8}Thanks that you have accepted
our invitation.
710
00:52:21,680 --> 00:52:23,240
It feels a bit like Tuscany.
711
00:52:24,520 --> 00:52:27,240
Right on time may I say. Thanks John.
712
00:52:29,160 --> 00:52:31,600
- Is that a tomahawk?
- It's like a one kilo t-bone.
713
00:52:31,680 --> 00:52:35,160
- Black Fetească to go with it.
- The pairing is perfect.
714
00:52:36,440 --> 00:52:37,400
Thank you.
715
00:52:37,920 --> 00:52:38,760
Enjoy.
716
00:52:40,680 --> 00:52:41,920
Blue.
717
00:52:44,080 --> 00:52:47,640
- That's a very rich Fetească.
- Yes. Have six years old.
718
00:52:48,200 --> 00:52:51,600
I guess sunrises and sunsets here
must be fabulous.
719
00:52:51,680 --> 00:52:55,320
Yes. Something else. Just like in Tuscany.
720
00:52:55,400 --> 00:52:57,360
Just like Tuscany as I said.
721
00:52:58,120 --> 00:53:00,720
- I do for you something special.
- Thanks, John.
722
00:53:00,800 --> 00:53:03,040
I made for you like Romanian papanași.
723
00:53:03,880 --> 00:53:07,320
{\an8}Is like Romanian doughnut,
fermented yoghurt,
724
00:53:08,320 --> 00:53:12,320
homemade gelato here, ice cream,
and forest fruit jelly.
725
00:53:12,400 --> 00:53:15,880
Everything is in our garden
is my vision of papanași.
726
00:53:15,960 --> 00:53:19,680
You know from being in England
the jam doughnut.
727
00:53:19,760 --> 00:53:22,760
That's always something that surprises me
728
00:53:22,840 --> 00:53:25,600
that that don't put jam on doughnuts
in Romania
729
00:53:25,680 --> 00:53:27,840
so you cannot have done that here.
730
00:53:28,440 --> 00:53:30,560
Really all I need is a glass of wine
731
00:53:32,080 --> 00:53:36,520
The following day we arranged to meet
the local motorcycle club from Focșani
732
00:53:36,600 --> 00:53:40,880
who kindly invited me to accompany them
for their regular Sunday ride
733
00:53:40,960 --> 00:53:42,960
through the adjacent country side.
734
00:53:43,680 --> 00:53:48,480
Waiting on the front patio, I could hear
the arrival of the Gentlemen Bikers
735
00:53:48,560 --> 00:53:51,720
several minutes before
they thundered into view,
736
00:53:51,800 --> 00:53:54,480
roaring down the long avenue of trees.
737
00:54:08,960 --> 00:54:09,880
Good morning, Charlie!
738
00:54:09,960 --> 00:54:11,600
- How are you?
- I am very good.
739
00:54:11,680 --> 00:54:14,640
- What a collection of bikes you got here!
- Thank you very much, man.
740
00:54:14,720 --> 00:54:17,360
How many are you, in the Gentlemen Bikers?
741
00:54:17,440 --> 00:54:23,040
{\an8}We're 16, now we're less than 16,
because it's a short notice.
742
00:54:23,120 --> 00:54:25,080
Thanks for coming up
I really appreciate it.
743
00:54:25,160 --> 00:54:27,800
You all just sort of know each other,
you are locals right?
744
00:54:27,880 --> 00:54:30,560
Yes. All from the same town,
is called Focșani.
745
00:54:30,640 --> 00:54:33,920
Is the capital of the province Vrancea,
is a province of wine.
746
00:54:34,600 --> 00:54:37,880
I know, I've experienced.
How did you all meet?
747
00:54:37,960 --> 00:54:40,280
So we started to get together in the town,
748
00:54:40,360 --> 00:54:44,760
we see each other driving,
"nice to meet you, man", "how are you",
749
00:54:45,400 --> 00:54:47,160
that is how we started everything.
750
00:54:47,240 --> 00:54:49,520
So we are going to go
for a ride around the area
751
00:54:49,600 --> 00:54:52,520
because I don't know the area very well,
hopefully you guys can show me around.
752
00:54:52,600 --> 00:54:55,440
Yes we can show you
a part of this countryside.
753
00:54:55,520 --> 00:54:57,120
Fantastic. So, let's hit the road.
754
00:54:57,200 --> 00:54:59,280
- See you on the road.
- See you on the road.
755
00:56:31,560 --> 00:56:34,560
- Coffee?
- Yes! Let's take a coffee.
756
00:56:39,560 --> 00:56:42,360
Tell me, why "Gentlemen Bikers"?
757
00:56:42,440 --> 00:56:45,440
Because we are business owners,
758
00:56:45,520 --> 00:56:47,400
we have to give
a bit of example to the community,
759
00:56:47,480 --> 00:56:52,240
so we say first of all we are gentlemen,
after that we love to ride,
760
00:56:52,320 --> 00:56:56,120
so the name became Gentlemen Bikers.
761
00:56:56,200 --> 00:57:00,600
You know the word "gentleman" in English
is very indicative of patience,
762
00:57:00,680 --> 00:57:04,960
consideration, thoughtfulness,
good manners, all that kind of thing.
763
00:57:05,040 --> 00:57:07,480
- That's why you see the white collars.
- Of course.
764
00:57:08,440 --> 00:57:11,440
And what are you doing?
So you came to a decision,
765
00:57:11,520 --> 00:57:13,960
we want to put something back
to the community.
766
00:57:14,040 --> 00:57:15,480
What did you decide to do?
767
00:57:15,560 --> 00:57:18,280
This year we launched the first program
768
00:57:18,360 --> 00:57:21,760
the anti-drug program
for children in high school
769
00:57:22,680 --> 00:57:24,440
because it's a real problem.
770
00:57:24,520 --> 00:57:25,880
- In this area?
- Yes.
771
00:57:25,960 --> 00:57:28,120
Because in Romania in the last ten years
772
00:57:28,200 --> 00:57:30,440
the drugs started to grow
773
00:57:30,520 --> 00:57:32,440
and started to affect the children.
774
00:57:33,040 --> 00:57:37,240
The children, they are our future,
without the future we are nothing.
775
00:57:37,960 --> 00:57:42,080
So we started the program called
the anti-drug campaign
776
00:57:42,160 --> 00:57:46,880
the first was a pilot. We hoped to have
next year and another year,
777
00:57:47,800 --> 00:57:51,320
eventually, if we are lucky,
catch the whole country.
778
00:57:51,880 --> 00:57:54,240
I am so impressed
by all the things you guys do
779
00:57:54,320 --> 00:57:57,240
and still making the time,
as you said, to have fun
780
00:57:57,320 --> 00:57:59,480
but try to make a difference as well.
781
00:58:00,440 --> 00:58:02,160
This is the important thing,
782
00:58:02,240 --> 00:58:06,040
leave the world a little better
than it was when you came into it.
783
00:58:06,120 --> 00:58:08,080
Thank you very much. We appreciate it.
784
00:58:09,360 --> 00:58:13,040
Another thing, we talked about
with my colleagues.
785
00:58:14,280 --> 00:58:16,920
We would like to become our baptiser.
786
00:58:17,480 --> 00:58:18,440
Ambassador?
787
00:58:18,520 --> 00:58:21,600
Yes. For Gentlemen Bikers.
This is your first present.
788
00:58:21,680 --> 00:58:22,480
Oh my God.
789
00:58:23,080 --> 00:58:24,560
It's going to be a shirt.
790
00:58:24,640 --> 00:58:27,040
That is super cool!
I love it, thank you so much!
791
00:58:29,240 --> 00:58:32,360
- I just hope it fits.
- It's extra large.
792
00:58:32,880 --> 00:58:34,560
I don't know,
you have to lose some weight.
793
00:58:34,640 --> 00:58:38,560
I may have to lose a lot of weight
but let me see.
794
00:58:39,720 --> 00:58:41,800
- I have an eye for that.
- That's cool.
795
00:58:41,880 --> 00:58:42,880
- Yes.
- Yes.
796
00:58:42,960 --> 00:58:44,160
I'm going to leave it like that.
797
00:58:44,240 --> 00:58:47,920
The next one it's going to be bigger,
I promise.
798
00:58:48,440 --> 00:58:49,600
Or I may be smaller, we'll see.
799
00:58:49,680 --> 00:58:51,800
You have to turn your back to the camera.
800
00:58:51,880 --> 00:58:53,800
Thanks so much, guys. Here we go. Look.
801
00:58:57,160 --> 00:59:00,000
So you have a first ambassador,
it's a pleasure.
802
00:59:00,080 --> 00:59:04,080
It will be a great honour and
well done for everything you do.
803
00:59:04,160 --> 00:59:06,840
And thanks for taking me out today,
it has been fun.
804
00:59:15,600 --> 00:59:18,680
After bidding the Gentlemen Bikers
a polite farewell,
805
00:59:18,760 --> 00:59:21,000
we ride back towards Focșani
806
00:59:21,080 --> 00:59:24,200
and a new the eco resort
that's earning a reputation
807
00:59:24,280 --> 00:59:26,120
for tranquil wetland holidays
808
00:59:26,200 --> 00:59:29,360
without the bother of having to drive
to the Danube Delta.
809
00:59:33,120 --> 00:59:38,800
A few years ago, Zaga Zaga resort
was a stagnant mosquito infested swamp
810
00:59:38,880 --> 00:59:42,360
until an enterprising local family
dredged the lakes,
811
00:59:42,880 --> 00:59:47,080
set up the sturgeon farm
and converted the rest of its 82 hectares
812
00:59:47,160 --> 00:59:49,640
into a maze of embankments and motorways
813
00:59:49,720 --> 00:59:54,240
populated by tree houses,
lake side cabins, and designer yurts.
814
00:59:59,640 --> 01:00:04,080
The resort has two main restaurants,
Cherhana which sits right on the lake
815
01:00:04,160 --> 01:00:06,080
and serves fish and local recipes,
816
01:00:07,280 --> 01:00:10,280
and one specialized
in more international cuisine.
817
01:00:13,280 --> 01:00:16,440
Further out from the center
winding trails and wooded paths
818
01:00:16,520 --> 01:00:20,200
lead guests to their preferred
choice of accommodation,
819
01:00:23,240 --> 01:00:26,640
although many of the chalets
are also accessible by boat.
820
01:00:36,320 --> 01:00:39,160
Camping. Or rather clamping.
821
01:00:41,000 --> 01:00:45,600
Yurts has a sofa in it or a cafetière.
822
01:00:46,360 --> 01:00:48,640
It's nice staying here.
823
01:00:48,720 --> 01:00:53,320
At night when it's quiet
you can hear the wind in the willows
824
01:00:54,080 --> 01:00:58,200
and sound of the rushes. Very peaceful.
825
01:00:58,960 --> 01:01:03,080
It's got a comfortable bed
and air conditioning, should you required.
826
01:01:11,280 --> 01:01:14,440
My residence for the night
was even ritzier.
827
01:01:14,520 --> 01:01:18,800
An island retreat with a little trimmings,
including a wood-fired hot-tub,
828
01:01:19,360 --> 01:01:22,880
a palatial sitting room
and a well stocked minibar.
829
01:01:23,520 --> 01:01:25,080
What more could you need?
830
01:01:27,320 --> 01:01:29,640
Except perhaps a gourmet breakfast
831
01:01:29,720 --> 01:01:31,880
which you can choose to take
in the main restaurant
832
01:01:31,960 --> 01:01:33,680
or have delivered to your door.
833
01:01:34,680 --> 01:01:37,120
Actually not much of a choice at all.
834
01:01:38,520 --> 01:01:40,360
This is the height of decadence.
835
01:01:40,440 --> 01:01:44,760
It might not be the Caribbean
but you can still have breakfast
836
01:01:44,840 --> 01:01:48,120
on your own private island,
delivered by boat.
837
01:01:49,320 --> 01:01:54,080
Look at that. Sturgeon caviar.
Smoked trout. Smoked sturgeon.
838
01:01:54,160 --> 01:01:57,680
Amazing fruits, fresh croissants, omelets...
839
01:01:57,760 --> 01:02:01,960
We got four plates here
and only so much caviar.
840
01:02:15,640 --> 01:02:17,880
Besides their warmth and hospitality
841
01:02:17,960 --> 01:02:21,240
the people of Moldova
like a good excuse to party.
842
01:02:21,800 --> 01:02:25,880
Annual celebrations are intertwined
with rituals and traditions
843
01:02:25,960 --> 01:02:28,120
some of which predated Christianity.
844
01:02:31,120 --> 01:02:35,840
A common thing is the iconic masks
that they wear at carnivals, weddings
845
01:02:35,920 --> 01:02:37,960
and occasionally even funerals.
846
01:02:39,480 --> 01:02:42,880
For my final stop I am driving
to the town of Şivița
847
01:02:42,960 --> 01:02:47,120
to visit folk historian Paul Buța
who set up its own museum
848
01:02:47,200 --> 01:02:50,440
and makes masks out of commission
for all kinds of people
849
01:02:50,960 --> 01:02:54,120
including the cast
of hit Netflix show Lucifer.
850
01:02:55,600 --> 01:02:58,200
- Hello.
- Hello and welcome.
851
01:03:00,600 --> 01:03:01,800
- Amazing!
- Yes.
852
01:03:02,320 --> 01:03:04,840
This is the mask workshop.
853
01:03:04,920 --> 01:03:07,800
They are very frightening actually,
but in a beautiful way.
854
01:03:08,320 --> 01:03:12,120
{\an8}But they have a beautiful story.
No matter how ugly they are,
855
01:03:12,200 --> 01:03:15,400
they are also funny,
make one laugh, they don't scare you,
856
01:03:15,480 --> 01:03:19,360
although their ancient meaning
was to scare the evil spirits away.
857
01:03:19,440 --> 01:03:21,960
They weren't only used
for the winter holidays
858
01:03:22,040 --> 01:03:26,840
but especially for the winter holidays.
They were also used in funerals.
859
01:03:26,920 --> 01:03:28,680
Here in Vrancea county
860
01:03:28,760 --> 01:03:31,800
a tradition called Chipărușul
has been kept until very late
861
01:03:31,880 --> 01:03:34,440
or they were used even in wedding
862
01:03:34,520 --> 01:03:38,320
and they actually represent
characters of the popular theater
863
01:03:38,400 --> 01:03:41,880
each mask is either an ugly, beautiful,
goddamn, stingy,
864
01:03:41,960 --> 01:03:46,800
old man, old woman, drunkard, grumpy,
ragpicker or scabby,
865
01:03:46,880 --> 01:03:50,560
names given by the people,
by His Highness the People
866
01:03:50,640 --> 01:03:54,400
and they are made of traditional stuff,
that is what they found in their yards.
867
01:03:54,480 --> 01:03:58,200
There were these corn husks mesh,
868
01:03:58,280 --> 01:04:01,400
they took the corn husk and braided them,
869
01:04:01,480 --> 01:04:05,400
and after that, the circuit started.
870
01:04:05,480 --> 01:04:09,720
Then they would put a mask,
made it half-rounded
871
01:04:09,800 --> 01:04:12,280
giving it a shape,
so it could stay on the face
872
01:04:12,360 --> 01:04:15,800
and then they would add
different objects on it.
873
01:04:15,880 --> 01:04:19,840
You had to be basically uglier
than the demons, didn't you?
874
01:04:19,920 --> 01:04:23,840
Including the word "demon"
that you are using
875
01:04:23,920 --> 01:04:27,360
was used about us as well,
not "devil", but "demon",
876
01:04:27,440 --> 01:04:30,000
because they would do
these masks with horns
877
01:04:30,080 --> 01:04:34,040
and the Romanian peasant
wouldn't accept the devil in his house,
878
01:04:34,120 --> 01:04:37,800
but he was waiting
for these ugly demons instead,
879
01:04:37,880 --> 01:04:41,600
to actually scare the devil
who could exist in a household,
880
01:04:41,680 --> 01:04:45,440
hidden somewhere in the cattle stable,
or in the attic of the house.
881
01:04:45,520 --> 01:04:47,960
That was why the masks
were even going up to the attic,
882
01:04:48,040 --> 01:04:51,240
playing an extraordinary popular theater.
883
01:04:51,320 --> 01:04:53,520
They are all operational
and that's why I make them,
884
01:04:53,600 --> 01:04:56,440
to be played by the children,
the youngsters and not only.
885
01:05:02,560 --> 01:05:04,880
Not the masks were playing,
but the whistle. Or...
886
01:05:10,840 --> 01:05:14,760
The instrument was changing according
to the play they were improvising.
887
01:05:14,840 --> 01:05:18,600
Sometimes they used to take...
Perfect! Well done!
888
01:05:18,680 --> 01:05:21,200
They would also
put the drum around their neck
889
01:05:21,280 --> 01:05:22,680
for a job well done,
890
01:05:22,760 --> 01:05:25,560
they would take the hammer from there
891
01:05:25,640 --> 01:05:27,560
and the nail too and they would start...
892
01:05:27,640 --> 01:05:29,440
Like this. The horn works as well.
893
01:05:30,720 --> 01:05:33,320
Up here... like this... Listen!
894
01:05:35,480 --> 01:05:36,520
That's right!
895
01:05:38,600 --> 01:05:39,600
That's it!
896
01:05:53,240 --> 01:05:55,760
I am happy, because Charlie
had the instrument on.
897
01:05:55,840 --> 01:05:58,760
This is a great thing
and a big surprise for me. Well done.
898
01:05:58,840 --> 01:06:01,640
Exactly, how many whistling
at the same time, that's the skill.
899
01:06:01,720 --> 01:06:02,840
One question.
900
01:06:02,920 --> 01:06:04,720
So this is obviously
901
01:06:04,800 --> 01:06:08,040
the original tradition,
tradition from Moldova,
902
01:06:08,560 --> 01:06:14,960
but how did these masks
and these traditions get on Lucifer?
903
01:06:16,880 --> 01:06:21,680
The fact that people abroad
were also interested in my masks
904
01:06:21,760 --> 01:06:25,760
and saw in them characters
which really convey a message,
905
01:06:25,840 --> 01:06:31,200
maybe from the old times or they
simply liked their expression,
906
01:06:31,280 --> 01:06:35,160
also determined the Lucifer people
to take them and play with them.
907
01:06:35,240 --> 01:06:39,160
There's so much imagination
that's got into creating this.
908
01:06:40,120 --> 01:06:44,320
The characters are... I don't know,
the masks of old women and old men
909
01:06:44,400 --> 01:06:46,320
but there was the gendarme as well.
910
01:06:47,280 --> 01:06:48,680
- We have a policeman!
- Exactly.
911
01:06:48,760 --> 01:06:51,000
Brilliant! Extra-scary!
912
01:06:51,080 --> 01:06:57,280
It's a very good way of taking the piss
out of the people in your community.
913
01:06:57,360 --> 01:07:03,840
So you create the mask of the mayor
or the local police chief
914
01:07:03,920 --> 01:07:08,720
and so, when you got to do the dance,
you are actually teasing them.
915
01:07:08,800 --> 01:07:12,120
We are now in the harvest season and
I would like to show you a local recipe
916
01:07:12,200 --> 01:07:16,520
called "peppers with cream"
with a very quick and easy preparation
917
01:07:16,600 --> 01:07:19,480
because it was made on the run. Let's go.
918
01:07:20,040 --> 01:07:22,600
- Local recipe.
- Yes, traditional cuisine.
919
01:07:22,680 --> 01:07:26,400
We make a nice fire
and put the peppers to cook.
920
01:07:26,880 --> 01:07:29,800
These are chiperi or peppers
how they are called nowadays,
921
01:07:29,880 --> 01:07:32,720
but we used to call them chiperi,
chilly pepper and bell pepper.
922
01:07:32,800 --> 01:07:36,520
And we are going to cook them
there on the stove.
923
01:07:36,600 --> 01:07:39,440
We'll place them here,
where the flame is bigger
924
01:07:39,520 --> 01:07:43,400
and we'll also put the tomatoes
to cook a little on the stove
925
01:07:43,480 --> 01:07:47,400
so that we could peel them easily, then
we'll chop and put them in the cauldron.
926
01:07:48,280 --> 01:07:49,840
So far, so simple.
927
01:07:49,920 --> 01:07:54,280
It's very easy and quick.
But if it's good too... we'll see.
928
01:07:55,640 --> 01:07:59,400
You should know that here, in Moldova,
I don't know if other areas too,
929
01:07:59,480 --> 01:08:04,080
but here generally, men didn't cook,
it was a shame if men cooked.
930
01:08:04,160 --> 01:08:07,600
If they helped around the house,
they would do so the neighbours didn't see
931
01:08:07,680 --> 01:08:11,520
because otherwise they would say
that he was staying in the kitchen,
932
01:08:11,600 --> 01:08:13,720
which meant he was effeminate
and that wasn't good.
933
01:08:13,800 --> 01:08:17,359
But today, if the man does not cook,
the woman says the food isn't good.
934
01:08:17,439 --> 01:08:21,200
Everything changed. I don't know
whether it's good or bad, but that's that.
935
01:08:21,279 --> 01:08:22,840
Well, look here... look.
936
01:08:23,880 --> 01:08:27,479
What I love is that the tomatoes,
the peppers even the chillies,
937
01:08:27,560 --> 01:08:30,600
everything comes from his garden,
it just have been picked.
938
01:08:30,680 --> 01:08:33,399
So it doesn't really get
any fresher than this.
939
01:08:36,640 --> 01:08:39,479
And now, Charlie, the last step:
Adding the peppers.
940
01:08:41,880 --> 01:08:47,840
We stir a little bit for them
leave their flavors in the food
941
01:08:47,920 --> 01:08:51,080
and also draw the flavor from the onion.
942
01:08:51,160 --> 01:08:52,640
I will take a little
943
01:08:53,800 --> 01:08:58,720
and you will see
the wisdom of our peasant, the cook.
944
01:08:58,800 --> 01:09:00,439
Look how she was doing it.
945
01:09:00,520 --> 01:09:03,880
I saw an old woman doing that,
one who was cooking for commemorations
946
01:09:03,960 --> 01:09:05,680
so she was famous.
947
01:09:08,359 --> 01:09:10,880
Careful not to be hot...
and see how she was doing it.
948
01:09:12,439 --> 01:09:13,840
This was how she tasted it
to see if it was good,
949
01:09:13,920 --> 01:09:16,479
she wouldn’t stick the spoon in there.
950
01:09:17,800 --> 01:09:19,800
The last ingredient, the cream.
951
01:09:19,880 --> 01:09:22,960
Of course. Otherwise they
wouldn't be peppers with cream.
952
01:09:24,920 --> 01:09:25,840
May I?
953
01:09:25,920 --> 01:09:28,560
Yes, you have priority. Help yourself.
954
01:09:31,920 --> 01:09:33,800
That looks so good, gorgeous.
955
01:09:35,080 --> 01:09:40,279
Sour, a little bit sweet, creamy, healthy.
956
01:09:42,319 --> 01:09:45,439
We use to pick it from the stem,
because we didn't have forks before.
957
01:09:45,520 --> 01:09:46,319
OK.
958
01:09:48,439 --> 01:09:52,319
- This is going to end very badly for me.
- They had wooden spoons but not forks.
959
01:09:57,680 --> 01:09:59,200
- Rather good.
- Very delicious.
960
01:09:59,280 --> 01:10:00,800
That's it.
961
01:10:00,880 --> 01:10:02,000
Thank you very much.
962
01:10:02,080 --> 01:10:04,160
I am happy because the weather was good.
963
01:10:04,240 --> 01:10:07,080
This means that kind-hearted people
get along
964
01:10:07,160 --> 01:10:10,080
and God takes care of us all
and helped us to prepare this,
965
01:10:10,160 --> 01:10:13,160
which I recommend to everyone,
it's easy to make and tasty.
966
01:10:13,240 --> 01:10:15,560
- I'll visit you again.
- I'll be waiting for you.
967
01:10:20,960 --> 01:10:23,480
With the storm
still gathering in the west,
968
01:10:23,560 --> 01:10:25,440
it was time to leave Moldova behind
969
01:10:26,160 --> 01:10:28,960
and head towards the historic region
of Dobrogea.
970
01:10:30,840 --> 01:10:34,880
Join us next time, when we'll be visiting
the famous Danube Delta,
971
01:10:34,960 --> 01:10:37,080
Europe's largest wetland.
972
01:10:37,920 --> 01:10:41,840
I'll be swapping the bike for various
aquatic modes of transport,
973
01:10:41,920 --> 01:10:47,920
as we explore over 3.000 square km
of reeds, lakes and waterways.
974
01:10:49,040 --> 01:10:51,960
We will also be traveling
down the Black Sea coast
975
01:10:53,120 --> 01:10:55,280
visiting aspirational beach resorts,
976
01:10:56,760 --> 01:10:58,480
subterranean temples
977
01:11:00,720 --> 01:11:05,960
and uncovering a secret necropolis
buried deep in a remote cliff.
978
01:11:07,640 --> 01:11:11,720
All this and much more,
only on Flavors of Romania.