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Romania is a land of a thousand faces.
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The crossing point
between the Occident and the Orient,
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and a melting pot of different cultures.
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Is also a country unlike any other
in Europe.
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With over half of the Carpathian
mountain range weaving through it,
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Romania is the custodian of Europe's
greatest surviving mixed forests
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and two-thirds of its apex predators.
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As well as native Romanians,
it is home to Hungarian,
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Saxon,
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Roma,
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Serbian,
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Greek and many more divers peoples
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united by the borders of a nation
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that stretches to the mouth of the Danube.
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However, Romania's natural
and built heritage
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is under threat from reckless development
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and a race to modernize
which often destroys
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the very things that could ensure
prosperity for generations to come.
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Welcome back to our ongoing odyssey
of Romania's great historic regions.
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The snows have now melted
and we're back in the saddle
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for the last two episodes
of this mammoth road trip
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commencing with Bucovina,
the land of the beech trees.
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To get there
I have driven up past Toplița,
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visited in episode one,
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and I'm currently trying
to take a shortcut across the hills
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on what quickly turned out to be
yet another series of dirt roads.
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Well, it's been over six months
since you saw us last
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and it's now May,
and there's still snow on the mountains.
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This has been a ridiculously long winter.
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Anyway, we're back on the road
and well, I say road...
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In fact, this looked like a main road
on the map
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and it's actually a pitted dirt track
for the next 20 km.
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However, welcome to the penultimate
episode of Flavours of Romania:
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Bucovina.
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And we're gonna be driving up here
into the mountains,
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and hopefully there might be some lunch
waiting for us at the other end.
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Riding towards Vatra Dornei,
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our first port of call is a small
trout farm in the hills near Coverca.
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Here, the countryside is still
largely unspoilt by modern housing
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and dotted with traditional wooden homes.
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Hello!
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Hello!
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{\an8}- Hi! Andrei?
- Andrei.
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{\an8}- Ana.
- Ana.
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{\an8}Nice to meet you.
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That's obviously the smoker.
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Yeah, here Andrei smokes our trouts.
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This is ready to eat.
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You can also taste it hot or cold.
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- It's nice hot, isn't it?
- Yeah.
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Hot smoked trout.
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With a little bread or... How do you eat it?
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- Butter.
- Bread and butter with some lemon.
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Yeah, lemon also.
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Tell me about this.
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- This is a...
- Flavouring process.
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Yeah, and it's special
for this forest area.
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Someone must've invented that, though,
at some point.
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Someone must've gone into the forest
and said,
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well, I've got some trout at home,
I wonder what it tastes like
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if I bind it in a pine tennis racket.
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The original story started in Putna Valley
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during the King's time.
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The King used to come to this area
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and the local ranger
wanted to offer him a special gift,
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so he smoked some huchen,
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back then you could still find it
in the rivers,
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and he wrapped it into a cobză,
like this one.
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Of course.
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Except that in Putna Valley
this is done without this little tail.
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You added the tail to make it look
more like a fish.
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But you would put the fish inside this
for how many days or hours?
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- For one, two days.
- Two days. OK.
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Would you like to taste some
with a fir tree flavour?
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Absolutely.
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This one was done
the day before yesterday.
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- It's so different.
- Yeah?
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It tastes really moist as well.
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And that is just kept outside
at this kind of temperature.
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- Yeah?
- Yeah.
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Here, in Bucovina, we usually eat
the trout with sour cream.
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Today we'll cook trout with sour cream
and we'll add in the sour cream some...
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And some little mushrooms?
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We'll add some little mushrooms.
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I'm gonna just get out of the way
and let you get on.
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Yeah? Thank you.
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- Sorrel.
- Sorrel.
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That's the nicest trout I've ever eat.
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- Thank you.
- You should have a restaurant.
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Yeah.
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I hope that's on the plans for the future.
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- A locally gastro point.
- Gastro point.
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- Gastro point.
- I shall give you a glowing review.
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Thank you.
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After lunch, it was time to head
towards our stop for the evening,
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a glamping and adventure outfit
in the village of Satu Mare,
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that offers rafting trips
on the Bistrița river.
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Arriving just before dusk
I grabbed a spare yurt
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in preparation
for the following day's activities.
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The site also boast
a cute little restaurant
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with accommodation upstairs for those
who prefer sleeping indoors.
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Early the next day,
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we make our way down to the boat yard
to get kitted out.
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To add a bit more excitement,
I opted for a kayak,
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the plan being to escort the raft
on its journey downriver.
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Extra extra large
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that no way reflects on my manly physique,
you must understand.
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Perfect.
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You're looking like a lemon.
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He's looking like a lemon.
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If this helps you.
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If this helps you.
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To the confession with me.
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- It turned into a wedding march.
- We are gathered here today...
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...for the union between these two...
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- Lemons.
- Lemons.
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The first stretch
was a gentle paddle into the gorge
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passing beneath a series of bridges
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before the current started gathering pace
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and the soft gurgle of the river
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was replaced by the distant roar
of the rapids.
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To the right and forward!
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To the right and forward!
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Straight forward!
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Back on terra firma
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I grabbed a quick coffee with guide
and instructor Adrian Dumitrache.
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High five, mate!
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Thank you for that, Adrian.
That was a lot of fun.
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You're very welcome. You did very well.
It was a very nice effort.
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I'm a bit rusty, but it wasn't too big,
the water was about average, wasn't it?
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{\an8}- Just a bit above average.
- I guess it gets big, though.
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{\an8}It gets. You can have like
one meter higher than it was now.
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We have that point
where we can measure it.
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You saw that big rock
just before the waves?
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And that sometimes it goes over it
and that's the maximum level.
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So for people who want to come
and learn to kayak, for example,
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and do sort of moderate things
like I did today,
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would you be able to give them lessons,
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could they come and train, and learn?
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This is exactly what we do
together with a team.
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We take them from the beginning.
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This is the best place
for the beginners to learn
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because it's a very good part
of the river in the beginning
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where the water is shallow,
so they can learn from zero.
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Leaving the lowlands behind
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we make for another of Romania's
most scenic drives:
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The Transrarău which snakes up
and over the top
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of one Bucovina's
most panoramic mountains.
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The road takes you
through pretty villages,
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beside a small stream
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before it climbs skyward
around hairpin bends
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and through dimly lit forests,
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occasionally flaring into rich greens
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when pierced by slanting rays of sunlight.
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Near the top,
the temperature drops noticeably
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until I passed stubborn snow drifts,
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the last vestiges of winter,
clinging to the shadows.
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I'm on my way to Hai La Saivan,
an award winning eco-lodge
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run by friends Raluca and Jorg Riommi,
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located not far
from the foot of the mountain,
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just the other side
of Câmpulung Moldovenesc.
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The only obstacle being a deep river
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which was not an option for the bike.
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Fortunately,
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their guide Beni had a safe place
to stash it for the night.
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- Hey!
- Welcome!
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{\an8}- Charlie.
- Beni.
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{\an8}- Nice to meet you, Beni.
- Nice to meet you also.
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So how far away to Hai La Saivan?
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- Ten minutes.
- Ten minutes. OK.
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And there's a river.
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We need to cross a river.
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- This is gonna stay here in that case.
- I think so.
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Armed with more appropriate transport
we set off for Hai La Saivan,
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turning left on a dirt road
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that quickly became suitable only
for four-wheel drives.
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- You arrived!
- Raluca.
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- How are you?
- Lovely to see you.
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- Lovely to see you, too.
- How's all being going?
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{\an8}It's been good.
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{\an8}In the Covid time
I think it was even better
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because people were searching for
these kind of houses.
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Now we're understanding actually
where we stand.
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It's been a lot of work also because
there was nothing here.
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It was like there,
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where is the sheepfold,
where are the cows,
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it was just the hill,
it was really nothing.
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- So you had no existing buildings here.
- Nothing.
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You didn't build these from scratch.
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You brought these houses
from other places.
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This is actually made out of two barns.
That one is an old barn.
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The first one was the little one,
the white one.
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- The really cute small one over there.
- Yes.
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And then we brought the last one.
It was like grandpa's house.
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- And where did you find these houses?
- In the village.
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In the beginning
was really hard to get them
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because people were just cutting them
and throw...
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- Burning them.
- Burning them.
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That's how we get that one,
like wood for fire.
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Really? Someone was using that for fire?
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Yeah. He just said,
"Do you need some wood to burn?"
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And we were like, yeah, whatever.
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And they showed us the house
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and my husband that is Italian, Jorg,
he was like, "Oh my God.
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Like in Italy you raise them,
you build them, you rebuild them..."
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In Italy, people would appreciate
the value of a house like that.
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It would become a destination,
wouldn't it?
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- Yes.
- So, Ralu,
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you grow up in a village near here,
haven't you?
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Yeah, very close, in Vama.
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It was amazing because I never thought
I'm gonna come back,
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and actually Jorg, my husband,
brought me back to this place,
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to Vama, back to my family because
I thought I could live in the city.
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Normally husbands would do anything
not to have to be close to their in-laws.
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Exactly. Have an exception.
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- That is a huge tick in the box.
- Yes.
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And it's so nice that your parents are
so involved with the business as well.
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Yeah. If it wouldn't be for them,
I couldn't actually run it.
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How does that affect their life,
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'cause obviously before
your Mom was doing other things,
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your Dad was just keeping the animals here...
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I think it's better for them.
My father didn't go down from the hill.
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He liked it so much here,
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he said, "I have everything here.
Why do I need to go down?"
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You know, your Mom is catering, isn't she?
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She's doing the food for the guests.
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My Mom is the best cook in the world.
Not because she's my Mom.
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She's a professional chef.
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The central part of being here I think
is obviously the view and just relaxing,
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but I mean there are walks and lots
of other things to do around.
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We have Moara Dracului
which is an amazing well.
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- That's Devil's Mill, isn't it?
- Yes.
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It's a very beautiful attraction
and it's not so known by people.
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OK. That's top of the list,
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but also getting your Mom to cook us
some pizza for lunch would be great.
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That should be top of the list.
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- That is the top of the list.
- It's really good.
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The big day!
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Hello! How are you?
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{\an8}- I'm good.
- I can't believe...
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{\an8}- Good to see you, Charlie!
- Good to see you, Jorg!
242
00:18:37,760 --> 00:18:42,040
I cannot believe we're making a pizza
without you.
243
00:18:42,120 --> 00:18:44,800
We're having all the ingredients here.
244
00:18:44,880 --> 00:18:50,600
But I trust you. I trust your skills
because we did it a couple of times.
245
00:18:50,680 --> 00:18:55,120
I know, but I'm in very capable hands
as well with Raluca's Mom.
246
00:18:55,200 --> 00:18:57,760
- Ciao, Jorg!
- This was what I wanted to say.
247
00:18:57,840 --> 00:18:59,800
I was talking earlier with Raluca
248
00:18:59,880 --> 00:19:03,080
about how you worked here
for months and months,
249
00:19:03,160 --> 00:19:04,640
you know, as your office.
250
00:19:05,240 --> 00:19:11,320
How was it running a PR agency
basically in Bucharest
251
00:19:11,400 --> 00:19:14,520
from a small farm in the hills,
in the mountains?
252
00:19:14,600 --> 00:19:17,240
Now, technology allows to do it.
253
00:19:17,320 --> 00:19:20,760
I think you can work
pretty much from everywhere
254
00:19:20,840 --> 00:19:22,800
when you have a good connection.
255
00:19:22,880 --> 00:19:27,400
For two months and a half I literally
didn't get down from the mountain.
256
00:19:27,480 --> 00:19:32,440
I remember Raluca was going
once a week downstairs
257
00:19:32,520 --> 00:19:37,080
to buy the things that we cannot produce
there like toilet paper, for instance.
258
00:19:37,160 --> 00:19:39,960
What do you mean you don't produce
your own toilet paper?
259
00:19:40,040 --> 00:19:43,320
We are in the making.
We will do that also.
260
00:19:43,400 --> 00:19:45,240
- Bio.
- Bio.
261
00:19:46,560 --> 00:19:47,440
Oh my God.
262
00:19:47,520 --> 00:19:49,240
So movies with flea on, yeah?
263
00:19:49,320 --> 00:19:52,080
This is the thing about interconnectivity.
264
00:19:52,160 --> 00:19:55,840
You're in Milan, and we're in Bucovina
eating Italian pizza.
265
00:19:55,920 --> 00:19:57,680
And you should eat sarmale.
266
00:19:57,760 --> 00:19:59,880
And talking to you as if you were
next door. I love that.
267
00:19:59,960 --> 00:20:02,160
- Exactly.
- Jorg, great to see you, buddy.
268
00:20:02,680 --> 00:20:04,840
I'll see you very soon.
269
00:20:05,960 --> 00:20:08,360
Grabbing a slice
of eponymously named pizza
270
00:20:08,440 --> 00:20:11,160
I set off with Beni
to visit the Devil's Mill.
271
00:20:40,720 --> 00:20:44,800
So if we carried on up this trail
where will we end up?
272
00:20:44,880 --> 00:20:47,320
We end at Rarău.
273
00:20:47,400 --> 00:20:49,880
- How long would that take?
- Three hours from here.
274
00:20:49,960 --> 00:20:52,560
Just three hours to get all around?
I guess you'd have to be quite fit.
275
00:20:52,640 --> 00:20:53,680
I think so.
276
00:20:53,760 --> 00:20:57,520
My question is though,
why is it called the Devil's Mill?
277
00:20:57,600 --> 00:21:00,160
That's a good question.
Because I don't know.
278
00:21:00,240 --> 00:21:01,680
- You don't know.
- I have no idea.
279
00:21:01,760 --> 00:21:02,560
That's interesting
280
00:21:02,640 --> 00:21:05,000
'cause I asked Raluca
and she didn't know either.
281
00:21:05,080 --> 00:21:09,360
So I think to invent some mythology.
282
00:21:09,440 --> 00:21:11,520
Romanians are very good
at inventing mythology.
283
00:21:11,600 --> 00:21:15,840
So let's say that
there was a hermit who lived here,
284
00:21:15,920 --> 00:21:19,960
in a cave, and the Devil
would tempt him regularly
285
00:21:20,040 --> 00:21:22,520
with promises of money,
and beautiful girls,
286
00:21:22,600 --> 00:21:25,560
and influence, and power,
and he always said no
287
00:21:25,640 --> 00:21:29,200
and carried on saying no,
and the Devil got so angry in the end,
288
00:21:29,280 --> 00:21:32,640
he struck the rock with his pitchfork
and he blew it apart,
289
00:21:32,720 --> 00:21:36,400
and created this gorge,
destroyed the hermit's cave,
290
00:21:36,480 --> 00:21:40,800
and the river just pulled down
through the rift and the rocks here,
291
00:21:40,880 --> 00:21:43,520
and afterwards it was known as
the Devil's Gorge.
292
00:21:43,600 --> 00:21:45,840
- Maybe that's what happened.
- Or the Devil's Cauldron.
293
00:21:45,920 --> 00:21:48,480
There we are. We have new mythology.
294
00:21:48,560 --> 00:21:50,200
If someone's watching this
295
00:21:50,280 --> 00:21:52,880
actually knows why is called
the Devil's Cauldron.
296
00:21:52,960 --> 00:21:54,840
Feel free to write us and let us know.
297
00:21:59,560 --> 00:22:01,960
As we saw with other regions
on our travels,
298
00:22:03,040 --> 00:22:06,240
Bucovina also has its share
of ethnic minorities
299
00:22:06,320 --> 00:22:08,640
that have relocated here
over the centuries.
300
00:22:16,160 --> 00:22:18,320
I'm on my way
to the little village of Pleșa
301
00:22:19,440 --> 00:22:22,640
which is almost entirely populated
by Polish Romanians
302
00:22:22,720 --> 00:22:26,720
in order to sample another culturally
diverse flavour of Romania.
303
00:22:30,040 --> 00:22:32,960
- Hello!
- Hello! Welcome to our place!
304
00:22:33,040 --> 00:22:33,960
Thank you.
305
00:22:34,040 --> 00:22:38,080
Here we speak Polish, but also Romanian.
306
00:22:38,160 --> 00:22:39,040
Why here?
307
00:22:39,120 --> 00:22:44,320
{\an8}We left Poland,
I mean our ancestors arrived here,
308
00:22:44,400 --> 00:22:48,680
sixteen families in search
of a better living.
309
00:22:48,760 --> 00:22:53,880
They were deforestation
and salt mining specialists.
310
00:22:53,960 --> 00:22:56,320
This is a traditional Polish dish,
isn't it?
311
00:22:56,400 --> 00:22:59,280
Yes, it's a traditional Polish recipe.
312
00:22:59,360 --> 00:23:01,600
It's called colțunași in Romanian.
313
00:23:01,680 --> 00:23:05,000
These are made from products
anyone has had at home.
314
00:23:05,080 --> 00:23:08,160
- Potatoes, eggs, bacon...
- șuncă, yeah.
315
00:23:08,240 --> 00:23:12,560
...cottage cheese, sheep's cheese,
sour cream, homemade butter.
316
00:23:12,640 --> 00:23:16,240
Homemade butter with normal butter?
317
00:23:16,320 --> 00:23:21,160
- It's homemade with dandelion flavour.
- OK.
318
00:23:21,240 --> 00:23:24,760
The butter's got the dandelions beside it
319
00:23:24,840 --> 00:23:27,120
because it's flavoured with dandelions,
320
00:23:27,200 --> 00:23:30,320
because the cows eat a lot of dandelions
at this time of year
321
00:23:30,400 --> 00:23:34,280
or Bășina Porcului
as we call them in Romania.
322
00:23:34,360 --> 00:23:36,120
Literally pig's farts.
323
00:23:37,200 --> 00:23:38,600
Charming name for a flower!
324
00:23:38,680 --> 00:23:43,680
Regardless of the flower's name,
its aroma is extraordinary.
325
00:23:43,760 --> 00:23:44,560
Okay.
326
00:23:44,640 --> 00:23:45,760
Please.
327
00:23:45,840 --> 00:23:50,320
We mix the sheep's cheese with potatoes.
328
00:23:50,400 --> 00:23:52,720
We add some pepper.
329
00:23:54,600 --> 00:23:55,440
Very good!
330
00:23:56,440 --> 00:23:57,960
And now we are kneading.
331
00:23:58,040 --> 00:24:00,240
How are relations
with the other villagers?
332
00:24:00,320 --> 00:24:01,960
You know, with the Romanian people here?
333
00:24:02,040 --> 00:24:04,800
I can use the word "brother".
334
00:24:04,880 --> 00:24:08,120
We were welcomed like that.
We consider ourselves brothers.
335
00:24:08,200 --> 00:24:10,560
We are friends, we understand well.
336
00:24:10,640 --> 00:24:13,600
The language is the only thing we change,
337
00:24:13,680 --> 00:24:17,200
because at home we speak Polish,
and with them, we speak Romanian.
338
00:24:17,280 --> 00:24:19,720
We shall now prepare the cottage cheese.
339
00:24:19,800 --> 00:24:23,520
We shall add an egg, some sugar.
340
00:24:24,760 --> 00:24:27,880
How the traditions differ
from Romanian village?
341
00:24:27,960 --> 00:24:31,760
There are many traditions we respect,
342
00:24:31,840 --> 00:24:34,880
but the most beautiful one
is St. Andrei's.
343
00:24:34,960 --> 00:24:36,720
That is when spells are cast.
344
00:24:36,800 --> 00:24:42,160
Girls tie up the road, hoping that
their chosen one will stumble.
345
00:24:42,240 --> 00:24:43,200
Their prepare colțunași
346
00:24:43,280 --> 00:24:45,440
in which they put little tickets
with the boys' names
347
00:24:45,520 --> 00:24:46,880
and put them to a boil.
348
00:24:46,960 --> 00:24:47,880
But until then,
349
00:24:47,960 --> 00:24:51,360
they bring water into their mouths
nine times
350
00:24:51,440 --> 00:24:53,880
which they put it in
while kneading the colțunași.
351
00:24:53,960 --> 00:24:55,320
And they have to pick one.
352
00:24:55,400 --> 00:24:56,200
Yes.
353
00:24:56,280 --> 00:24:59,000
Then they put
the colțunași to a boil,
354
00:24:59,080 --> 00:25:01,760
and the one that surfaces,
that's the chosen one.
355
00:25:01,840 --> 00:25:04,280
But now girls are smarter,
356
00:25:04,360 --> 00:25:07,240
the one colțunaș is smaller,
so that it boils quicker.
357
00:25:07,920 --> 00:25:12,880
What if they don't like the ticket
they take?
358
00:25:12,960 --> 00:25:14,880
If they take it and it's a guy
they really don't like,
359
00:25:14,960 --> 00:25:17,120
can they put it back in
and choose another one?
360
00:25:17,200 --> 00:25:19,160
She can't. There's another possibility.
361
00:25:20,800 --> 00:25:23,160
She puts all the tickets on a zolitor.
362
00:25:23,240 --> 00:25:27,480
A zolitor is a device
for manual laundry.
363
00:25:27,560 --> 00:25:30,440
And she brings them to the dog.
364
00:25:30,520 --> 00:25:34,120
But mind you, the dog must be very hungry.
365
00:25:34,200 --> 00:25:38,560
She leaves them there
and lets the dog chooses a ticket.
366
00:25:38,640 --> 00:25:43,680
And the dog took three colțunași.
367
00:25:43,760 --> 00:25:44,680
Right.
368
00:25:44,760 --> 00:25:47,880
The dog chooses the future husband.
369
00:25:47,960 --> 00:25:51,640
That's an interesting selection process.
370
00:25:51,720 --> 00:25:52,720
I like that.
371
00:25:53,680 --> 00:25:57,320
We make the colțunași
in different shapes.
372
00:25:57,400 --> 00:26:01,080
It depends on the filling.
We recognize them as they boil.
373
00:26:01,160 --> 00:26:04,400
The sweet ones in a bowl,
and the others in another bowl.
374
00:26:04,480 --> 00:26:10,800
I've made this one sun-shaped,
and these are filled with salty cheese.
375
00:26:12,760 --> 00:26:15,200
This takes a bit of practice and skill.
376
00:26:15,760 --> 00:26:17,600
That's why the grandmothers
are so good at it,
377
00:26:17,680 --> 00:26:20,440
'cause they've had a lifetime
to perfect it.
378
00:26:20,520 --> 00:26:23,880
The finger is a little bigger,
it comes out different. It's perfect.
379
00:26:29,200 --> 00:26:30,720
We put the colțunași to boil.
380
00:26:52,800 --> 00:26:54,360
Now the colțunași are ready.
381
00:26:54,960 --> 00:26:59,320
We say poftă bună in Romanian
and smacznego in Polish.
382
00:26:59,400 --> 00:27:01,240
- Smacznego.
- Smacznego.
383
00:27:01,320 --> 00:27:03,920
I'm gonna be a big fun
of the savoury version
384
00:27:04,880 --> 00:27:10,120
because it's liberally coated
in pork fat and bacon.
385
00:27:11,040 --> 00:27:12,320
Fantastic.
386
00:27:13,200 --> 00:27:15,040
- Delicious.
- Delicious.
387
00:27:32,520 --> 00:27:35,440
A short ride due north
and we reach Horodnic de Jos,
388
00:27:39,200 --> 00:27:40,360
home to what is probably
389
00:27:40,440 --> 00:27:43,400
the largest collection of vintage
motorbikes in the country,
390
00:27:47,120 --> 00:27:49,400
not something I could possibly drive past
391
00:27:49,480 --> 00:27:51,200
without stopping to investigate,
392
00:27:52,240 --> 00:27:55,680
with the help of eccentric owner
and entrepreneur Sandu Scheul.
393
00:27:58,520 --> 00:27:59,920
- Hello!
- Hello!
394
00:28:00,000 --> 00:28:01,400
Charlie. Nice to meet you.
395
00:28:01,480 --> 00:28:03,760
That is quite a collection you have.
396
00:28:03,840 --> 00:28:08,000
{\an8}- Here I have 240 motorcycles.
- Two hundred forty bikes.
397
00:28:08,080 --> 00:28:12,440
All work. This is a communist motorcycle
from Czechoslovakia.
398
00:28:12,520 --> 00:28:13,960
Czech Republic.
399
00:28:14,040 --> 00:28:15,720
Why motorcycles?
400
00:28:15,800 --> 00:28:19,720
My father bought a little motorcycle.
It is there.
401
00:28:19,800 --> 00:28:26,000
I like very much and I'm an engineer
in meat industry.
402
00:28:26,080 --> 00:28:28,160
I like very much mechanics.
403
00:28:28,240 --> 00:28:29,880
- So is a passion restoring bikes.
- Yes.
404
00:28:29,960 --> 00:28:31,600
- And you started collected them.
- Yes.
405
00:28:31,680 --> 00:28:33,880
I have my company Killer, meat company.
406
00:28:33,960 --> 00:28:39,440
You have a meat company called Killer.
407
00:28:41,520 --> 00:28:45,080
A meat company called Killer.
It does what it says on the tin.
408
00:28:45,160 --> 00:28:46,400
That's hilarious.
409
00:28:46,960 --> 00:28:49,840
This is the first electric car in Romania.
410
00:28:49,920 --> 00:28:51,320
It is very, very nice
411
00:28:51,400 --> 00:28:57,520
because the president of Mexico gave it
as a present to Nadia Comăneci.
412
00:28:57,600 --> 00:29:00,080
- It works, yeah?
- Yes.
413
00:29:00,160 --> 00:29:02,120
- Come.
- I'm too big. I'm gonna let you go.
414
00:29:02,200 --> 00:29:05,960
- I'll watch.
- No, come. It's very good.
415
00:29:06,040 --> 00:29:08,560
- Cinderella it's her name.
- My God.
416
00:29:10,200 --> 00:29:12,960
This is just ridiculous.
417
00:29:13,040 --> 00:29:17,800
It looks like is straight out
of this sort of steampunk time
418
00:29:17,880 --> 00:29:23,440
of London Circuit 1905,
and yet it's an electric car.
419
00:29:23,520 --> 00:29:24,560
Oh my God!
420
00:29:24,640 --> 00:29:30,560
You have a Nazi German machine gun bike.
421
00:29:30,640 --> 00:29:33,800
- And this is desert version, isn't it?
- Zündapp.
422
00:29:33,880 --> 00:29:36,080
- OK. From the war.
- Yeah.
423
00:29:36,160 --> 00:29:42,440
So this was probably used in the war
to kill people.
424
00:29:42,520 --> 00:29:44,600
Zündapp Sahara.
425
00:29:44,680 --> 00:29:46,840
Monet. That's presumably French.
426
00:29:49,120 --> 00:29:49,960
Donald.
427
00:29:50,840 --> 00:29:53,600
Of course, is perfect
for the traffic in Paris.
428
00:29:53,680 --> 00:29:56,960
- And here I have ten Harley-Davidson.
- What a collection!
429
00:29:58,680 --> 00:30:01,040
- This is the American IronHorse.
- IronHorse.
430
00:30:01,120 --> 00:30:02,960
Softail. Love that bike.
431
00:30:03,040 --> 00:30:07,320
Road one of those across America
from Los Angeles to Miami.
432
00:30:07,400 --> 00:30:09,400
Really, really nice bike.
433
00:30:09,480 --> 00:30:11,560
I have a proposition for you.
434
00:30:11,640 --> 00:30:16,760
We're going to see an atelier, okay,
for ceramics.
435
00:30:16,840 --> 00:30:20,160
It's not far. I don't think.
It's about 15 minutes.
436
00:30:20,240 --> 00:30:21,720
So how about we do a swap?
437
00:30:21,800 --> 00:30:24,520
I leave you my bike, my Harley-Davidson,
438
00:30:24,600 --> 00:30:26,560
and I take a traditional Romanian bike?
439
00:30:26,640 --> 00:30:30,040
I am very glad to drive
your Harley-Davidson,
440
00:30:30,120 --> 00:30:33,080
and you drive my Mobra.
441
00:30:33,160 --> 00:30:34,320
- Your Mobra.
- Yes?
442
00:30:34,400 --> 00:30:37,880
That's a much smaller bike, though,
so you have to go slowly.
443
00:30:37,960 --> 00:30:40,000
- Yes.
- Alright.
444
00:30:40,080 --> 00:30:42,080
- Let's have a go.
- Thank you very much.
445
00:32:06,080 --> 00:32:09,000
The town of Margina is only eight km away
446
00:32:09,080 --> 00:32:11,360
but it felt like hours
rather than minutes...
447
00:32:12,800 --> 00:32:15,720
If you believe, as I do,
that life is all about the journey,
448
00:32:15,800 --> 00:32:17,680
then I recommend buying a Mobra.
449
00:32:20,200 --> 00:32:23,600
It's a noisy little time machine
that sharpens your senses
450
00:32:23,680 --> 00:32:26,480
and forces you to live
entirely in the present.
451
00:32:38,920 --> 00:32:42,440
I found out it was an experience
riding that bike.
452
00:32:42,520 --> 00:32:44,600
It's got two neutrals, right?
453
00:32:44,680 --> 00:32:48,880
It's got a neutral between one and two,
454
00:32:48,960 --> 00:32:52,640
and then between three and four
also there's another neutral.
455
00:32:53,480 --> 00:32:55,040
But it is very, very little.
456
00:32:55,120 --> 00:32:58,360
I know, it's only little.
And I like it, it's cute!
457
00:32:58,440 --> 00:33:01,360
It is a little Harley-Davidson,
a Romanian little Harley-Davidson.
458
00:33:01,440 --> 00:33:03,080
- Very small little Harley-Davidson.
- Yes.
459
00:33:03,160 --> 00:33:07,080
And it sounded a bit like a lawn mower
when I was going around, of course,
460
00:33:07,160 --> 00:33:10,800
but it's really fun
and it's a piece of history as well.
461
00:33:10,880 --> 00:33:16,320
When people see the Mobra, wow!
Mobra is the star.
462
00:33:16,400 --> 00:33:17,680
I know, more than my bike.
463
00:33:17,760 --> 00:33:21,480
They were actually waving to me
on the Mobra, you know,
464
00:33:21,560 --> 00:33:23,320
ignoring him completely.
465
00:33:23,400 --> 00:33:26,680
- Do you want to change the motorcycle?
- No, I'm not gonna swap.
466
00:33:26,760 --> 00:33:29,600
I've got too far to go
and I couldn't quite get the speed.
467
00:33:29,680 --> 00:33:32,480
I'm a bit heavy for a bike like that,
to be honest.
468
00:33:32,560 --> 00:33:35,520
Charlie, thank you for your visit
at my exhibition.
469
00:33:35,600 --> 00:33:38,240
No, it's my pleasure. Thank you
for showing us your beautiful museum.
470
00:33:38,320 --> 00:33:40,240
And you're riding that back now, are you?
471
00:33:40,320 --> 00:33:41,120
- Yes.
- OK.
472
00:33:41,200 --> 00:33:42,080
Farewell!
473
00:33:43,400 --> 00:33:46,440
- Goodbye!
- Goodbye! Safe trip.
474
00:33:56,200 --> 00:33:58,400
Well, that was a blast from the past
475
00:33:58,480 --> 00:34:03,000
and a little bit hairy for me because
I didn't actually have any mirrors,
476
00:34:03,080 --> 00:34:06,120
so you constantly having to look
over your shoulder
477
00:34:06,200 --> 00:34:08,880
to make sure there's not a truck
bearing down on you
478
00:34:08,960 --> 00:34:11,520
when you're doing 35 miles an hour.
479
00:34:11,600 --> 00:34:15,880
However, I've got safely
to the town of Margina.
480
00:34:15,960 --> 00:34:20,760
In season one, we went to Horezu
and we saw a center
481
00:34:20,840 --> 00:34:23,400
where everyone was making
pottery and ceramics.
482
00:34:24,040 --> 00:34:27,639
But up here in Margina,
they do it slightly differently.
483
00:34:27,719 --> 00:34:29,520
It's known as black ceramics.
484
00:34:29,600 --> 00:34:32,280
What that involves I'm not quite sure,
but we're about to find out.
485
00:34:32,360 --> 00:34:35,239
Meantime, I think I'm gonna have
a quick coffee after that.
486
00:34:36,040 --> 00:34:37,840
- Hi, Charlie!
- Hello!
487
00:34:38,600 --> 00:34:42,159
This is extremely elegant.
This is the black ceramics, isn't it?
488
00:34:42,239 --> 00:34:43,320
Original black ceramics.
489
00:34:43,400 --> 00:34:45,880
This is the old workshop of my family.
490
00:34:45,960 --> 00:34:50,400
And in this moment it's a restaurant
with traditional food.
491
00:34:50,480 --> 00:34:54,000
{\an8}We have five generations of potters
in our family.
492
00:34:54,080 --> 00:34:56,560
This job is transmitted from father
to son.
493
00:34:56,639 --> 00:35:00,520
All the boys started from seven,
maybe eight years old.
494
00:35:00,600 --> 00:35:02,040
And this is very rare.
495
00:35:02,120 --> 00:35:04,600
Well, of course, 'cause normally
somebody at some point says,
496
00:35:04,680 --> 00:35:07,960
well, I like to be a professional
tennis player for example,
497
00:35:08,040 --> 00:35:10,160
- ...do something different.
- It's true.
498
00:35:10,240 --> 00:35:14,520
- But in our family is a tradition.
- You're carrying the torch now, are you?
499
00:35:14,600 --> 00:35:15,400
- Yeah.
- Exactly.
500
00:35:15,480 --> 00:35:17,480
I've never seen
anything quite like this before.
501
00:35:17,560 --> 00:35:21,520
Is that 'cause it's... it seems
a local clay that is different.
502
00:35:21,600 --> 00:35:23,520
The clay is from our village.
503
00:35:23,600 --> 00:35:25,640
The black pottery is unique in Romania
504
00:35:26,600 --> 00:35:30,720
because the black colour is natural,
it's not painted.
505
00:35:30,800 --> 00:35:32,880
- So that isn't a glaze.
- No, it's unglazed.
506
00:35:32,960 --> 00:35:38,200
- Our pottery becomes black in the oven.
- It's so beautiful! It's metallic-looking.
507
00:35:38,280 --> 00:35:39,760
- It's metallic, yeah.
- Why is that?
508
00:35:39,840 --> 00:35:42,440
The secret is in the burning
without oxygen.
509
00:35:42,520 --> 00:35:46,280
We're burning it first with pine wood,
seven hours, maybe eight,
510
00:35:46,360 --> 00:35:50,680
till 700 degrees. At that moment,
we hermetically close the kiln
511
00:35:50,760 --> 00:35:54,240
and we make the oxygen reduction.
512
00:35:54,320 --> 00:35:55,800
- So you starved it of oxygen.
- Yeah.
513
00:35:55,880 --> 00:35:59,000
And that accounts for the sort
of metallic appearance of the clay.
514
00:35:59,080 --> 00:36:02,960
- This fire gives this...
- It almost burn it.
515
00:36:03,040 --> 00:36:07,720
- So it's actually carbon.
- Yeah, the carbon is the colour.
516
00:36:07,800 --> 00:36:12,520
Would you give me a demonstration?
I know you've got a wheel prepared.
517
00:36:12,600 --> 00:36:16,760
- Of course.
- May I have a look at how you do it?
518
00:36:16,840 --> 00:36:18,680
I have to prepare the clay.
519
00:36:19,520 --> 00:36:23,920
- It looks like you're preparing bread.
- Absolutely.
520
00:36:24,880 --> 00:36:28,480
- So what are you making?
- I'm gonna make a jug.
521
00:36:29,520 --> 00:36:30,880
- Already?
- Yep.
522
00:36:33,800 --> 00:36:35,880
I can see how's that could go badly wrong.
523
00:36:37,680 --> 00:36:41,200
There seem to be a lot of people
making ceramics here in this town.
524
00:36:42,480 --> 00:36:46,680
We have three families now
who make ceramics
525
00:36:46,760 --> 00:36:48,800
but in the past there were 60 families.
526
00:36:49,600 --> 00:36:50,480
We're almost done.
527
00:36:51,880 --> 00:36:53,920
That didn't seem to take very log at all.
528
00:36:55,520 --> 00:36:57,400
- And that's it.
- This is...
529
00:36:58,080 --> 00:36:59,960
You make it look extremely easy.
530
00:37:01,040 --> 00:37:02,760
So you don't normally put a glaze on it
531
00:37:02,840 --> 00:37:05,760
'cause it looks beautiful
in its original form.
532
00:37:05,840 --> 00:37:08,240
- We don't glaze our pottery.
- No.
533
00:37:08,320 --> 00:37:11,800
- It's so beautiful black and is original.
- I know. Why bother? Exactly.
534
00:37:13,960 --> 00:37:15,960
The historic landscape of Bucovina
535
00:37:16,040 --> 00:37:18,960
has been shaped
by its geo-political position
536
00:37:19,040 --> 00:37:22,600
between the Occident and the Orient,
and the efforts of Stephen the Great,
537
00:37:22,680 --> 00:37:25,360
who repeatedly repelled
the Ottoman invaders
538
00:37:25,440 --> 00:37:28,080
and preserved
the region's Christian identity.
539
00:37:31,800 --> 00:37:32,600
To understand more
540
00:37:32,680 --> 00:37:36,320
about the man who was later elevated
to the status of a saint
541
00:37:36,400 --> 00:37:37,600
we are heading to Putna,
542
00:37:40,840 --> 00:37:43,440
the first and most important
monastic center
543
00:37:43,520 --> 00:37:45,760
in what was once
the Principality of Moldavia.
544
00:37:50,680 --> 00:37:55,560
Our story begins in the densely
forested Vițău Valley outside town
545
00:37:55,640 --> 00:37:58,320
with a hermit monk named Daniel Sihastrul
546
00:37:58,400 --> 00:38:01,680
who carved himself a stone refuge
where he lived and meditated
547
00:38:01,760 --> 00:38:05,480
becoming famous for his prophesies
and spiritual guidance.
548
00:38:07,280 --> 00:38:11,280
To find out more I arranged to meet
local priest Father Protosinghel.
549
00:38:13,040 --> 00:38:19,520
{\an8}Saint Daniel, the hermit,
came here about 20 years
550
00:38:19,600 --> 00:38:24,080
before the building the foundation
of our monastery
551
00:38:24,160 --> 00:38:27,880
and he stayed here 20 years...
552
00:38:27,960 --> 00:38:29,680
- In there. Prayed here.
- Right here.
553
00:38:29,760 --> 00:38:35,640
He shaped it, he made it
more appropriate for his needs.
554
00:38:36,440 --> 00:38:39,520
- Fit for habitation.
- For habitation, but no only.
555
00:38:39,600 --> 00:38:43,880
Because he would receive many people here,
556
00:38:43,960 --> 00:38:49,400
he would give them confessions, advices,
counselling and something like that.
557
00:38:49,480 --> 00:38:54,120
That is how Stephen the Great
came here in the first place
558
00:38:54,200 --> 00:38:57,440
to receive counsel from Saint Daniel,
559
00:38:57,520 --> 00:39:01,320
to hear from him which is the will of God.
560
00:39:01,400 --> 00:39:04,160
And Saint Daniel told him
561
00:39:04,240 --> 00:39:09,160
you should go there
to build a monastery for your tomb.
562
00:39:09,240 --> 00:39:14,880
And Saint Stephen the Great wasn't
convinced that it was God's will.
563
00:39:14,960 --> 00:39:18,400
And he insisted, are you sure that
that is the place?
564
00:39:18,480 --> 00:39:23,600
And Saint Daniel told him,
I know so because God showed me,
565
00:39:23,680 --> 00:39:29,640
I heard coming from there
singing chants from angels,
566
00:39:29,720 --> 00:39:33,800
and he showed him again that place,
567
00:39:33,880 --> 00:39:38,640
and Saint Stephen could see lights
coming from there.
568
00:39:38,720 --> 00:39:40,200
- This is the legend.
- OK.
569
00:39:40,280 --> 00:39:44,080
So we need to know which is God's will,
570
00:39:44,160 --> 00:39:47,400
we need to familiarize with it
571
00:39:47,480 --> 00:39:52,840
and that's why we go to certain people
to ask them,
572
00:39:52,920 --> 00:39:57,120
to let them guide us, you know?
573
00:39:57,760 --> 00:40:01,560
- Well, thank you for guiding me.
- You're very welcome.
574
00:40:01,640 --> 00:40:05,960
To Putna Monastery
we will go from here to there.
575
00:40:06,520 --> 00:40:07,520
Thank you, Father.
576
00:40:07,600 --> 00:40:08,480
God help us.
577
00:40:08,560 --> 00:40:09,560
You're very welcome.
578
00:40:18,200 --> 00:40:21,680
Five minutes the other side of Putna
and we reach the monastery itself;
579
00:40:23,200 --> 00:40:25,480
Final resting place of Stephen the Great
580
00:40:25,560 --> 00:40:28,920
and most recently the starting point
for the Via Transilvanica.
581
00:40:35,040 --> 00:40:39,320
At the urging of Daniil Sihastrul,
Stephen built here in 1466,
582
00:40:40,680 --> 00:40:44,040
allegedly having fired an arrow
from an adjacent hill
583
00:40:44,120 --> 00:40:46,720
and starting construction
at the point where it fell.
584
00:40:53,920 --> 00:40:56,720
Curiously, there is evidence
of a previous church
585
00:40:56,800 --> 00:40:58,520
beneath the existing building,
586
00:41:00,640 --> 00:41:02,280
either just by coincidence
587
00:41:02,360 --> 00:41:06,080
or perhaps proof of the spiritual
resonance of this location.
588
00:41:16,240 --> 00:41:18,480
And this is the final resting place
589
00:41:18,560 --> 00:41:24,000
of probably Romania's
greatest historical hero and saint
590
00:41:24,080 --> 00:41:25,840
Ștefan cel Mare.
591
00:41:25,920 --> 00:41:31,400
And during his lifetime, he designed
his own tomb out of white marble,
592
00:41:31,480 --> 00:41:34,880
but he omitted one detail:
The date of his death
593
00:41:34,960 --> 00:41:37,440
which was to be filled in later.
594
00:41:38,040 --> 00:41:40,120
As you can see, no one ever did.
595
00:41:41,160 --> 00:41:46,680
It was said that on hearing the news,
the entire nation cried
596
00:41:46,760 --> 00:41:48,440
and it's probably because in some sense
597
00:41:48,520 --> 00:41:50,840
they didn't want to accept
the finality of it
598
00:41:50,920 --> 00:41:54,840
that they refused to add
the final detail to his tomb
599
00:41:54,920 --> 00:41:56,880
and kept it blank,
600
00:41:56,960 --> 00:42:01,880
the idea being that he in some sense
transcended death
601
00:42:01,960 --> 00:42:05,160
and watches over the Romanian people
from heaven.
602
00:42:13,280 --> 00:42:16,160
Decades ago, most of the homes
in the main street in Putna
603
00:42:16,240 --> 00:42:19,160
were beautifully handcrafted
wooden buildings.
604
00:42:24,960 --> 00:42:28,440
Now almost entirely replaced
with modern domiciles.
605
00:42:29,080 --> 00:42:31,760
Just one small oasis of heritage
606
00:42:31,840 --> 00:42:35,560
still exists amid the sea of concrete,
bricks and mortar.
607
00:42:39,240 --> 00:42:43,880
Thanks to the efforts of the local people,
and a French expat named Pascal Garnier
608
00:42:43,960 --> 00:42:47,800
this complex of historic houses,
which includes a family museum,
609
00:42:47,880 --> 00:42:50,880
is in the process
of being lovingly restored
610
00:42:51,920 --> 00:42:55,960
using time-honoured techniques
to ensure an authentic finish.
611
00:42:58,040 --> 00:42:59,680
This sort of neighbourhood gathering,
612
00:42:59,760 --> 00:43:02,480
where everyone chips in
with their respective skills,
613
00:43:02,560 --> 00:43:03,960
is known as a clacă,
614
00:43:04,040 --> 00:43:08,760
and one of the oldest, most inspiring
and endangered traditions in Romania.
615
00:43:11,080 --> 00:43:12,240
Pascal. Hello!
616
00:43:12,880 --> 00:43:14,320
- Hello. Welcome.
- How are you?
617
00:43:14,400 --> 00:43:15,880
- Very well, thanks.
- Very well?
618
00:43:15,960 --> 00:43:18,200
You know, I've got to ask this question.
619
00:43:18,280 --> 00:43:22,800
I'm sure everybody does, but what is
a Frenchman doing here in Putna?
620
00:43:22,880 --> 00:43:28,360
{\an8}Maybe love. I think love for this type
of houses and love for a woman.
621
00:43:28,440 --> 00:43:32,120
Love for a Romanian woman, I know.
It's the same story I keep hearing.
622
00:43:32,200 --> 00:43:33,320
- I know that.
- Absolutely.
623
00:43:33,400 --> 00:43:39,440
- So what are doing at the moment?
- This is the final stage done inside...
624
00:43:39,520 --> 00:43:43,680
when the clay is spread on the floor.
625
00:43:43,760 --> 00:43:50,320
The walls are already prepared and
we finished what we had to do there.
626
00:43:50,400 --> 00:43:51,880
Now we're taking care of the lower part
627
00:43:51,960 --> 00:43:55,880
and we're preparing the material
for the last layer,
628
00:43:55,960 --> 00:43:57,640
a sort of a wear layer,
629
00:43:57,720 --> 00:44:03,280
and we're using a special clay
mixed with horse dung.
630
00:44:03,360 --> 00:44:09,640
In the dung,
there are horse-digested straws,
631
00:44:09,720 --> 00:44:13,600
and so it makes
a sort of a long-time coating.
632
00:44:13,680 --> 00:44:15,160
And it's also mixed with sand.
633
00:44:15,680 --> 00:44:22,440
This is the recipe from the people
that have been doing it for many years.
634
00:44:22,520 --> 00:44:26,960
A gentleman of about 70 years old
gave me the recipe.
635
00:44:27,040 --> 00:44:28,800
It's so encouraging to see
636
00:44:28,880 --> 00:44:32,360
that all of this house has been built
using traditional skills
637
00:44:32,440 --> 00:44:35,880
and that there are enough people
that remember how to do these things
638
00:44:35,960 --> 00:44:37,680
and actually are passing them on.
639
00:44:37,760 --> 00:44:40,280
We're doing the most simple part.
640
00:44:40,360 --> 00:44:45,240
Those who worked the most
at this house's foundation
641
00:44:45,320 --> 00:44:48,200
worked on it 140 years ago.
642
00:44:48,280 --> 00:44:53,760
It was then when the wood was cut
and processed by hand.
643
00:44:53,840 --> 00:44:58,120
Now we have modern tools
and it's going much faster.
644
00:44:58,200 --> 00:45:01,680
The hardest part for us was with the clay.
645
00:45:01,760 --> 00:45:07,200
After each stage of work
you need to wait for the clay to dry
646
00:45:07,280 --> 00:45:08,880
and to prepare the structure.
647
00:45:08,960 --> 00:45:12,880
The second stage is the smearing.
648
00:45:13,520 --> 00:45:18,600
We use yellow clay
mixed with straws and water.
649
00:45:18,680 --> 00:45:21,640
It's trampled underfoot
and then thrown against the walls.
650
00:45:21,720 --> 00:45:24,200
So this is the final stage of the floor
going down.
651
00:45:24,960 --> 00:45:29,720
It's very important that
the first layer has cracks in it.
652
00:45:30,280 --> 00:45:35,840
Then the next layer is better fixed.
653
00:45:35,920 --> 00:45:40,720
It traps air presumably and that's
an insulator... pockets of air.
654
00:45:40,800 --> 00:45:42,640
Really interesting. It looks great.
655
00:45:43,640 --> 00:45:45,240
I wouldn't say it smells great.
656
00:45:45,320 --> 00:45:50,480
After one week it will be dry
and without smell.
657
00:45:52,320 --> 00:45:55,480
We have to paint the walls
658
00:45:55,560 --> 00:46:00,360
maybe two, three months after that
659
00:46:00,440 --> 00:46:02,440
and you have a smell of fresh.
660
00:46:02,520 --> 00:46:04,080
More clay!
661
00:46:04,880 --> 00:46:06,720
Charlie, do you want to try?
662
00:46:07,520 --> 00:46:08,640
I can give it a go.
663
00:46:09,720 --> 00:46:10,720
Thank you very much.
664
00:46:12,080 --> 00:46:16,640
I was a plaster at one point.
Painting, decorating and plastering.
665
00:46:16,720 --> 00:46:19,600
It's very important to be
a very good composition.
666
00:46:19,680 --> 00:46:20,880
It's a bit too...
667
00:46:20,960 --> 00:46:24,680
I need to clean it
because I'm getting a few...
668
00:46:24,760 --> 00:46:26,640
There are a few problems here.
669
00:46:28,400 --> 00:46:30,400
Some water, please!
670
00:46:32,520 --> 00:46:34,520
- OK, there we go.
- It's easier...
671
00:46:34,600 --> 00:46:37,240
It's a bit dry.
672
00:46:39,280 --> 00:46:41,960
- You can do this.
- OK.
673
00:46:44,160 --> 00:46:45,800
Starting to look okay.
674
00:46:46,480 --> 00:46:50,320
And after that we will follow some...
675
00:46:54,040 --> 00:46:55,760
Smooth it off with some...
676
00:46:55,840 --> 00:47:00,200
- And after that it's...
- Patted down literally.
677
00:47:02,520 --> 00:47:06,320
Right. I am going to leave it
to the professionals.
678
00:47:07,240 --> 00:47:08,040
Thank you so much.
679
00:47:08,120 --> 00:47:10,480
There are no professionals here,
only volunteers.
680
00:47:10,560 --> 00:47:13,520
They've had a bit more practice.
Let's put it like that.
681
00:47:13,600 --> 00:47:15,880
That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
682
00:47:15,960 --> 00:47:18,120
Let's go. Thank you so much.
683
00:47:18,200 --> 00:47:21,720
I'm gonna give you
a really pooey hand shake.
684
00:47:21,800 --> 00:47:22,680
No problem. Yeah.
685
00:47:25,040 --> 00:47:29,520
It's very moving to see a community
coming together to help each other
686
00:47:29,600 --> 00:47:32,240
which is the definition of a clacă.
687
00:47:32,320 --> 00:47:35,600
And it doesn't exist much any more
in Romania.
688
00:47:35,680 --> 00:47:38,640
Most people don't help their neighbours.
689
00:47:39,240 --> 00:47:41,200
Some people don't even know
who their neighbours are.
690
00:47:41,280 --> 00:47:44,880
And communities don't come together
in the way that they used to do.
691
00:47:44,960 --> 00:47:47,120
Maybe we can take a lesson from this.
692
00:47:47,200 --> 00:47:50,680
I think everybody worldwide
should take a lesson from this.
693
00:47:50,760 --> 00:47:54,240
That actually the community spirit
of helping each other,
694
00:47:54,320 --> 00:47:57,080
not only to put a lot of good hard work
out there,
695
00:47:57,960 --> 00:47:59,440
but it comes back.
696
00:47:59,520 --> 00:48:00,600
What you give you receive.
697
00:48:00,680 --> 00:48:05,600
I think this is the essential point
of the claca.
698
00:48:05,680 --> 00:48:09,640
That you help people, and then when
you need help they are there for you
699
00:48:09,720 --> 00:48:13,280
when your house falls down or it burns,
or you need to build a new one.
700
00:48:13,360 --> 00:48:14,440
They'll be there
701
00:48:14,520 --> 00:48:17,280
and they'll be rolling up their sleeves
to get involved.
702
00:48:22,960 --> 00:48:26,480
The wooden shingles for which
the houses of Bucovina used to be famous
703
00:48:26,560 --> 00:48:28,600
are sadly now seldom seen.
704
00:48:32,120 --> 00:48:36,000
Rising costs, fewer artisans
and cheaper alternatives
705
00:48:36,080 --> 00:48:38,080
mean the cultural landscape is changing.
706
00:48:42,440 --> 00:48:45,480
However, there are still
a few custodians of the art,
707
00:48:45,560 --> 00:48:48,960
like the thatchers of the Danube Delta,
they are far and few between.
708
00:48:51,240 --> 00:48:54,240
I have tracked down one of them
to the outskirts of Bilca.
709
00:49:01,240 --> 00:49:03,160
- Hello.
- Hello.
710
00:49:03,960 --> 00:49:06,640
- Iosif.
- Charlie. Nice to meet you.
711
00:49:06,720 --> 00:49:08,600
Nice to meet you.
It's good to have you here.
712
00:49:08,680 --> 00:49:14,400
I've noticed in the ten years
since I've been coming to Bucovina
713
00:49:14,480 --> 00:49:18,120
there are fewer and fewer
case tradiționale.
714
00:49:18,200 --> 00:49:22,640
{\an8}For that reason we have thought
to save a few.
715
00:49:22,720 --> 00:49:28,360
{\an8}Right now we have about 70 houses
in various stages of rescue.
716
00:49:28,440 --> 00:49:31,560
Some of them are already bought,
others purchased, dismantled and stored,
717
00:49:31,640 --> 00:49:33,480
others are already at their owners.
718
00:49:33,560 --> 00:49:35,560
We promote them on social media.
719
00:49:35,640 --> 00:49:40,280
They buy them for either a donation
or a small sum of money,
720
00:49:40,360 --> 00:49:42,280
at most 2,000 or 1,000 euros.
721
00:49:42,360 --> 00:49:48,400
We have special teams for dismantling
and rebuilding it with clay,
722
00:49:48,480 --> 00:49:51,160
with a wood stove, with a bathroom,
723
00:49:51,240 --> 00:49:54,800
we provide them with minimal comfort
for the 21st century,
724
00:49:54,880 --> 00:49:58,960
so that they may be preserved
and not be destroyed.
725
00:49:59,040 --> 00:50:03,160
Do you think there's any possibility
to convince people and the authorities
726
00:50:03,240 --> 00:50:07,200
to save the few traditional houses
that still exist here?
727
00:50:07,840 --> 00:50:11,720
We think so. This little house
is the first one we've rescued.
728
00:50:11,800 --> 00:50:17,160
That's what we want
to rescue and rebuild them
729
00:50:17,240 --> 00:50:23,240
so that the future generation is not
just told that a house can be rescued,
730
00:50:23,320 --> 00:50:25,000
but to show them live,
731
00:50:25,080 --> 00:50:28,400
so that they can touch a latch,
to open a wooden door,
732
00:50:28,480 --> 00:50:33,560
to see a wooden floor
and not a very modern parquet.
733
00:50:33,640 --> 00:50:39,600
Because we believe it's possible,
that's why we started these things.
734
00:50:39,680 --> 00:50:41,800
It's hard work, not simple.
735
00:50:41,880 --> 00:50:48,880
The messages we get from people
are positive,
736
00:50:48,960 --> 00:50:51,880
they also want to rescue houses like that.
737
00:50:51,960 --> 00:50:57,440
We hope to rescue more in the near future.
738
00:50:57,520 --> 00:51:02,480
The problem is that the shingle
is very expensive.
739
00:51:02,560 --> 00:51:03,800
It's true.
740
00:51:03,880 --> 00:51:10,880
It's 3,000 euros more expensive
with shingle than with metal,
741
00:51:10,960 --> 00:51:12,600
a metal-like shingle.
742
00:51:12,680 --> 00:51:16,800
How long would this survive on the roof?
743
00:51:16,880 --> 00:51:22,600
There are houses in our village
that have 80, 100 years old.
744
00:51:22,680 --> 00:51:23,800
A hundred years?!
745
00:51:23,880 --> 00:51:26,000
They've lasted for a hundred years.
746
00:51:26,080 --> 00:51:30,600
We have here a workshop for shingle.
We can't say it's a factory,
747
00:51:30,680 --> 00:51:33,680
because they work by hand,
there's nothing mechanical.
748
00:51:33,760 --> 00:51:40,360
Let's go inside to show you part
of the shingle finishing process
749
00:51:40,440 --> 00:51:44,520
and then the preparation for drying.
750
00:51:44,600 --> 00:51:49,360
After it was cracked
that is where it was cut by the knife,
751
00:51:49,440 --> 00:51:52,880
it's levelled,
and this is the guiding part,
752
00:51:52,960 --> 00:51:57,280
so that the entire surface is the same.
753
00:51:57,360 --> 00:52:01,400
Here it's a little bit thicker.
We put it on this chair.
754
00:52:01,480 --> 00:52:03,320
I keep it here with my foot
755
00:52:04,040 --> 00:52:10,440
and I level it for the same thickness.
756
00:52:14,680 --> 00:52:15,920
What are you doing there?
757
00:52:16,880 --> 00:52:20,760
That's a really good way of getting rid
of ticks and lice by the way.
758
00:52:20,840 --> 00:52:23,200
It seems to me that
as fewer and fewer people
759
00:52:23,280 --> 00:52:25,440
know how to do this or want to learn
760
00:52:25,520 --> 00:52:27,080
the price goes up and up
761
00:52:27,160 --> 00:52:31,280
until it becomes prohibitive
for most people except very rich
762
00:52:31,880 --> 00:52:34,120
to put traditional tiles on their roof.
763
00:52:34,200 --> 00:52:37,280
And this is a disaster
because it means in the future
764
00:52:37,360 --> 00:52:42,080
we're gonna completely loose this
important part of Romania's heritage.
765
00:52:42,160 --> 00:52:44,160
Indeed. There are no longer craftsmen.
766
00:52:44,240 --> 00:52:46,960
The old ones die.
767
00:52:47,800 --> 00:52:53,320
The young ones don't want to learn
such a craft.
768
00:52:53,960 --> 00:52:59,440
And that's why
there are no such workshops.
769
00:53:00,040 --> 00:53:02,280
When we started moving those houses
770
00:53:02,360 --> 00:53:05,440
we encountered a lack of shingles.
771
00:53:05,520 --> 00:53:06,520
Where do we get it?
772
00:53:06,600 --> 00:53:09,760
I said let's set up a workshop
to make shingle,
773
00:53:09,840 --> 00:53:12,800
let it be open daily.
774
00:53:12,880 --> 00:53:15,560
Anyone could see how it's done.
775
00:53:15,640 --> 00:53:17,760
He must sit here and make shingle,
776
00:53:17,840 --> 00:53:19,880
he must plane the shingle,
777
00:53:19,960 --> 00:53:23,640
to feel the love of working
and to be able to produce.
778
00:53:23,720 --> 00:53:30,160
In the near future, we'd like
to inspire as many people as we can,
779
00:53:30,240 --> 00:53:34,400
young people and entrepreneurs
who want to open such a workshop,
780
00:53:34,920 --> 00:53:38,200
so that we can produce in many places,
781
00:53:38,280 --> 00:53:40,560
thus the price would be cheaper
782
00:53:40,640 --> 00:53:45,880
and the houses would be covered
with shingle
783
00:53:45,960 --> 00:53:49,200
and not with other cheaper materials.
784
00:53:51,880 --> 00:53:54,600
Greatly inspired by Iosef's dedication
785
00:53:54,680 --> 00:53:56,880
I am now on my way
to meet another community
786
00:53:56,960 --> 00:53:59,600
equally committed
to maintaining their heritage
787
00:53:59,680 --> 00:54:02,080
in the face
of a rapidly modernizing world.
788
00:54:06,880 --> 00:54:08,960
In the hills and villages around Brodina
789
00:54:09,040 --> 00:54:12,440
resides a people who claim
common ancestry with the Dacians.
790
00:54:14,640 --> 00:54:18,000
There are numerous hypotheses
about the origin of the Hutsuls.
791
00:54:18,080 --> 00:54:20,720
However, they are generally considered
to be
792
00:54:20,800 --> 00:54:22,760
descendants of the White Croats,
793
00:54:22,840 --> 00:54:25,880
a Slavic tribe
that once inhabited the area.
794
00:54:27,560 --> 00:54:29,520
I'm paying them a visit to find out
795
00:54:29,600 --> 00:54:33,200
how their cultural idiosyncrasies
differ from fellow Romanians.
796
00:54:34,960 --> 00:54:37,120
First stop the Hutsul Museum in Brodina.
797
00:54:38,960 --> 00:54:42,080
So, Paul, I've tried looking
on the Internet
798
00:54:42,160 --> 00:54:43,760
for information about Hutsul.
799
00:54:43,840 --> 00:54:48,040
Some people say you're from Galicia,
some people say Ukraine.
800
00:54:48,120 --> 00:54:49,440
What's the real story?
801
00:54:49,520 --> 00:54:56,160
{\an8}I shall begin with what our great
ethnologist Simion Florea Marian claimed
802
00:54:56,240 --> 00:55:00,360
that the Hutsuls would be
Slavized Dacians throughout history,
803
00:55:00,440 --> 00:55:01,400
and not Romanized.
804
00:55:01,480 --> 00:55:06,120
He claims that the Hutsuls
are the descendants of the Dacians.
805
00:55:06,200 --> 00:55:10,000
They established their households
on the highest peaks of the mountains
806
00:55:10,080 --> 00:55:13,320
- and they still live here today.
- I notice you're holding an axe.
807
00:55:13,400 --> 00:55:14,400
Should I be worried?
808
00:55:15,880 --> 00:55:17,880
No, because it's a defensive weapon.
809
00:55:17,960 --> 00:55:22,360
The baltag is the most representative
element of the Hutsul.
810
00:55:22,440 --> 00:55:28,280
Men wore it to important events
throughout their lives.
811
00:55:28,360 --> 00:55:31,400
By the ornament on the tail
of the baltag,
812
00:55:31,480 --> 00:55:35,160
you could tell the material condition
of the Hutsul.
813
00:55:35,240 --> 00:55:36,440
How wealthy he was.
814
00:55:36,520 --> 00:55:40,360
The wealthier he was, the more ornate
the pattern on its tail.
815
00:55:40,440 --> 00:55:45,560
It has solar and apotropaic symbols
for the person wearing it.
816
00:55:45,640 --> 00:55:50,880
Even today it's the most
representative element
817
00:55:50,960 --> 00:55:53,200
of the Hutsul man,
818
00:55:53,280 --> 00:55:56,320
representing the power and wealth
819
00:55:56,400 --> 00:55:59,840
of the people from the northern part
of Suceava county.
820
00:55:59,920 --> 00:56:01,480
So this one here...
821
00:56:02,880 --> 00:56:05,840
This guy was considerably richer than you.
822
00:56:05,920 --> 00:56:11,160
Yes, he was richer,
but we still keep the tradition
823
00:56:11,240 --> 00:56:13,480
and I'm about this rich.
824
00:56:13,560 --> 00:56:16,600
I have not reached this size. Yet.
825
00:56:17,320 --> 00:56:20,960
I noticed this one
has got some notches on the blade
826
00:56:21,960 --> 00:56:23,880
so it was probably used.
827
00:56:26,520 --> 00:56:28,760
It's a little bit worrying, you know.
828
00:56:29,960 --> 00:56:33,280
Being a defensive weapon,
they certainly didn't fight,
829
00:56:33,360 --> 00:56:38,880
but it was definitely dropped,
hence the mark on the blade.
830
00:56:38,960 --> 00:56:41,720
Your axe doesn't look
like it's seen a lot of action,
831
00:56:41,800 --> 00:56:45,680
but this guy has clearly been put
to some sort of use.
832
00:56:47,160 --> 00:56:48,680
May he rest in peace.
833
00:56:52,600 --> 00:56:55,640
Back outside, Paul's mum Elena
was waiting for us,
834
00:56:55,720 --> 00:56:57,280
dressed in traditional costume.
835
00:56:58,760 --> 00:57:00,480
So in time honoured style
836
00:57:00,560 --> 00:57:02,920
I absconded with her on the motorbike.
837
00:57:44,080 --> 00:57:45,000
Thanks.
838
00:57:45,080 --> 00:57:47,320
This is a traditional Hutsul house.
839
00:57:47,400 --> 00:57:50,560
{\an8}Yes, it's an authentic Hutsul house,
840
00:57:50,640 --> 00:57:54,200
{\an8}but the truly authentic Hutsul
households are on the mountain.
841
00:57:54,280 --> 00:57:59,640
You'll see that the horse and the violin
is always by the Hutsul's side,
842
00:57:59,720 --> 00:58:03,480
because music accompanies him
both in happiness and in sadness,
843
00:58:03,560 --> 00:58:06,160
and also during work and parties.
844
00:58:06,240 --> 00:58:09,200
- Songs are composed on the spot.
- Do you sing?
845
00:58:09,280 --> 00:58:12,560
Yes. My grandmother taught me
and I still sing,
846
00:58:12,640 --> 00:58:17,240
and I've taught my children as well.
I've brought a luthier with me today
847
00:58:17,320 --> 00:58:20,880
because the Hutsul also makes violins.
848
00:58:20,960 --> 00:58:24,840
And he'll show you
how beautiful Hutsuls sing.
849
00:58:44,800 --> 00:58:45,640
- Bravo!
- Yes.
850
00:58:45,720 --> 00:58:47,520
What was the song about?
851
00:58:47,600 --> 00:58:51,640
It's a bride's song.
852
00:58:51,720 --> 00:58:55,360
When she's marrying,
she speaks to the beech forest.
853
00:58:55,440 --> 00:58:57,960
In fact,
Bucovina is also called Buchenland
854
00:58:58,040 --> 00:59:02,720
due to its vast beech forests.
And the forest says that the leaf opens up
855
00:59:02,800 --> 00:59:08,160
and at that time a noise,
a sough of sadness can be heard.
856
00:59:08,240 --> 00:59:12,880
And the bride says, ”I also cry
because I have to get married,
857
00:59:12,960 --> 00:59:15,840
and my cry is the same as yours.”
858
00:59:16,400 --> 00:59:19,040
And the forest asks her,
”Why are you crying,
859
00:59:19,120 --> 00:59:22,440
because I make that noise
when my leaves open,”
860
00:59:22,520 --> 00:59:23,400
and she answers,
861
00:59:23,480 --> 00:59:28,480
”I cry because I leave behind
the beautiful life at my mother's house.”
862
00:59:28,560 --> 00:59:31,960
Thank you for giving me such an insight
into what may be
863
00:59:32,800 --> 00:59:35,720
the last real vestige
864
00:59:35,800 --> 00:59:38,800
of the Dacian civilization
surviving today.
865
00:59:38,880 --> 00:59:40,960
- Thank you so much.
- You're welcome.
866
00:59:43,360 --> 00:59:45,400
Located a few miles north of Suceava
867
00:59:45,480 --> 00:59:47,840
is the impressive Dragomirna Monastery,
868
00:59:52,600 --> 00:59:56,080
but en route I recommend visiting
a beautiful stretch of oak forest
869
00:59:56,160 --> 00:59:58,160
called Pădurea Crujana
870
00:59:58,240 --> 01:00:01,040
that once served as hunting ground
for Ceaușescu,
871
01:00:02,080 --> 01:00:04,680
later redesignated as a national park.
872
01:00:11,200 --> 01:00:14,080
There are some leafy backroads
ideal for mountain biking
873
01:00:14,160 --> 01:00:17,040
and you can also visit
the dictator's former hunting lodge,
874
01:00:18,320 --> 01:00:22,120
the beneficiary of an unfortunate
makeover in recent years.
875
01:00:35,720 --> 01:00:38,760
After stretching my legs,
I set off down another wooded trail,
876
01:00:41,880 --> 01:00:44,360
crossing a small stream
and up through the forest
877
01:00:44,440 --> 01:00:46,640
until we emerge close to Dragomirna.
878
01:00:48,200 --> 01:00:52,480
It's stone ramparts rising defiantly
from the surrounding fields.
879
01:00:59,840 --> 01:01:02,520
On first glance,
this monastery is very different
880
01:01:02,600 --> 01:01:05,840
from the archetypal wooden churches
and monastic buildings
881
01:01:05,920 --> 01:01:08,960
characteristic of Bucovina's
spiritual landscape.
882
01:01:11,680 --> 01:01:12,800
Its imposing walls,
883
01:01:12,880 --> 01:01:16,240
constructed in 1627
to defend against the Turks,
884
01:01:16,320 --> 01:01:19,040
give it the feel of a military fortress
885
01:01:19,120 --> 01:01:21,800
rather than a place of peace
and contemplation.
886
01:01:25,320 --> 01:01:29,920
To learn more, I met up with sister
and monastery guide Filofteia Bălan.
887
01:01:31,760 --> 01:01:34,560
Tell me a little bit about the history
of the monastery.
888
01:01:34,640 --> 01:01:38,840
{\an8}The history of the Dragomirna monastery
begins in 1602.
889
01:01:38,920 --> 01:01:42,000
{\an8}Then, Metropolitan Anastasie Crimca,
890
01:01:42,080 --> 01:01:44,720
together with the boyars
Luca and Simion Stroici
891
01:01:44,800 --> 01:01:49,680
built a small church which is today
in the cemetery of the monastery.
892
01:01:49,760 --> 01:01:53,480
Later, after the disintegration
of the Union of Michael the Brave,
893
01:01:53,560 --> 01:01:56,480
Anastasie Crimca begins
the construction of the large church
894
01:01:56,560 --> 01:01:59,880
together with the great founder
Luca Stroici.
895
01:01:59,960 --> 01:02:02,600
Between the years 1605 -1609
896
01:02:02,680 --> 01:02:05,280
he will build
the great Dragomirna monastery.
897
01:02:05,360 --> 01:02:09,800
He said that it is among
the highest monastery churches
898
01:02:09,880 --> 01:02:11,120
in the whole of Romania.
899
01:02:11,200 --> 01:02:15,720
If we look at the height of the church
up to the base of the Holy Cross,
900
01:02:15,800 --> 01:02:17,680
it is approximately 42 meters.
901
01:02:18,560 --> 01:02:20,080
Relative to this height,
902
01:02:20,160 --> 01:02:24,160
its width is 9.5 meters,
so it is very narrow.
903
01:02:24,240 --> 01:02:26,720
And precisely this difference
in proportions,
904
01:02:26,800 --> 01:02:30,520
that it is tall and narrow,
gives it this slenderness, suppleness.
905
01:02:30,600 --> 01:02:34,560
It is a powerful launch to heaven,
906
01:02:34,640 --> 01:02:38,240
just as from the heart of man
when he truly prays,
907
01:02:38,320 --> 01:02:40,760
the prayer ascends to God.
908
01:02:40,840 --> 01:02:44,000
Also, Dragomirna is special
909
01:02:44,080 --> 01:02:45,880
because of the stone embroidery
of the tower.
910
01:02:45,960 --> 01:02:48,600
If the other churches
from the 16th century
911
01:02:48,680 --> 01:02:50,840
are famous for their exterior painting,
912
01:02:50,920 --> 01:02:53,320
Dragomirna brings
another decorative system
913
01:02:53,400 --> 01:02:55,160
consisting of artistic stone carving.
914
01:02:55,240 --> 01:02:59,360
The church tower, as Iorga called it
"jewel in stone",
915
01:02:59,440 --> 01:03:03,640
includes a great variety and wealth
of floral and geometric motifs.
916
01:03:03,720 --> 01:03:07,000
Among the distinct architectural
elements at Dragomirna,
917
01:03:07,080 --> 01:03:10,320
we note the torsada,
this belt woven in three
918
01:03:10,400 --> 01:03:13,720
that encircles the church in the middle,
and we will note the fact
919
01:03:13,800 --> 01:03:16,400
that it appears predominantly
in the interior architecture as well.
920
01:03:16,480 --> 01:03:19,880
It is an architectural element
of Oriental influence.
921
01:03:19,960 --> 01:03:24,120
Being a bishop's foundation,
this architectural element
922
01:03:24,200 --> 01:03:28,520
was given a religious interpretation
as a symbol of the Holy Trinity,
923
01:03:28,600 --> 01:03:30,880
God the Father, the Son
and the Holy Spirit,
924
01:03:30,960 --> 01:03:33,720
and at the same time it also has
the meaning
925
01:03:33,800 --> 01:03:35,680
of the three Christian virtues:
926
01:03:35,760 --> 01:03:37,960
Faith, hope and love,
927
01:03:38,040 --> 01:03:42,080
virtues that must intertwine permanently
the life of the Christian.
928
01:03:44,040 --> 01:03:46,080
The morning after, I am back on the road
929
01:03:46,160 --> 01:03:48,720
heading for a town
that until a few years ago
930
01:03:48,800 --> 01:03:50,680
was little known outside the region.
931
01:03:50,760 --> 01:03:54,520
That is until it was elevated
to international acclaim
932
01:03:54,600 --> 01:03:56,760
by the culinary skills of a local woman
933
01:03:56,840 --> 01:03:59,600
who together with her husband
invented a soup
934
01:03:59,680 --> 01:04:02,160
now recognized and reproduced
across the globe.
935
01:04:03,120 --> 01:04:07,240
I have come here to Rădăuți to meet her
and get the official recipe
936
01:04:07,320 --> 01:04:10,600
for world famous ciorba rădăuțeană
from its source.
937
01:04:13,240 --> 01:04:15,640
We weren't originally intended to stop
in Rădăuți,
938
01:04:15,720 --> 01:04:18,560
but when I saw the sign,
939
01:04:18,640 --> 01:04:21,440
I realized that this was the home
of ciorba rădăuțeană,
940
01:04:22,080 --> 01:04:23,760
we made a bit of a detour
941
01:04:23,840 --> 01:04:30,080
and I'm privileged to be with the lady
who actually invented the recipe.
942
01:04:30,160 --> 01:04:31,840
- Congratulation.
- Thank you.
943
01:04:32,440 --> 01:04:33,240
Please.
944
01:04:33,320 --> 01:04:38,880
For the ciorba rădăuțeană we need
chicken breast, but with bones,
945
01:04:38,960 --> 01:04:42,000
so that the soup is concentrated,
and good.
946
01:04:42,080 --> 01:04:48,240
Vegetables: Bell pepper, celery,
carrot, onion, parsley.
947
01:04:48,320 --> 01:04:51,240
After we boil the meat with the vegetables
948
01:04:51,320 --> 01:04:53,280
and the meat is cooked, we take it out.
949
01:04:53,360 --> 01:04:58,880
We strain the soup and prepare
what we have to put in the soup:
950
01:04:58,960 --> 01:05:05,640
Eggs, sour cream, some flour,
vinegar, garlic and salt.
951
01:05:05,720 --> 01:05:10,960
One thing I didn't realize is that
ciorba rădăuțeană has been voted
952
01:05:11,760 --> 01:05:15,840
in the top ten soups of the world,
and it's number seven.
953
01:05:15,920 --> 01:05:18,360
This is an amazing thing for Romania
954
01:05:18,440 --> 01:05:21,840
and it was created by this woman.
955
01:05:21,920 --> 01:05:24,280
She used to give it to her kids
when they were growing up.
956
01:05:24,360 --> 01:05:28,360
I honestly for me I feel like
I'm in the presence of Elvis,
957
01:05:28,440 --> 01:05:30,040
gastronomically speaking.
958
01:05:31,360 --> 01:05:34,440
We add the eggs yolks, the flour,
959
01:05:36,560 --> 01:05:38,960
the garlic, a pinch of salt.
960
01:05:40,640 --> 01:05:43,320
We mix everything together.
961
01:05:43,400 --> 01:05:46,440
Now we put everything into the soup.
962
01:05:47,480 --> 01:05:53,960
After the soup and the liaison boil,
963
01:05:54,040 --> 01:05:56,360
we let it boil,
964
01:05:56,440 --> 01:05:58,560
and after we add the vinegar.
965
01:05:59,240 --> 01:06:01,360
We don't add it
together with the sour cream.
966
01:06:01,440 --> 01:06:05,680
We cut the chicken breast into chunks
and put it in the soup.
967
01:06:06,560 --> 01:06:07,520
And it's done.
968
01:06:07,600 --> 01:06:09,280
- That's it?
- Yes.
969
01:06:10,440 --> 01:06:14,160
So in a nut shell, you boil
the vegetables with the chicken
970
01:06:14,240 --> 01:06:16,400
to create a stock for a couple of hours.
971
01:06:16,480 --> 01:06:19,080
You can use the bones,
you can use the whole chicken,
972
01:06:19,160 --> 01:06:20,400
you know, cut into chunks.
973
01:06:20,480 --> 01:06:23,760
You then take the chicken out
and you remove the vegetables.
974
01:06:23,840 --> 01:06:27,400
You take the best bits of the chicken
and then you put it back in
975
01:06:27,480 --> 01:06:30,960
and you add the sauce to go with it
976
01:06:31,040 --> 01:06:33,440
to make it sour, to give it the colour
and the flavour.
977
01:06:33,520 --> 01:06:37,080
And that's it. It's a very simple recipe.
One you can do at home.
978
01:06:37,160 --> 01:06:39,320
- Shall we go eat?
- Yes, of course.
979
01:06:40,960 --> 01:06:42,880
- We're ready.
- Enjoy!
980
01:06:42,960 --> 01:06:44,040
Perfect.
981
01:06:47,080 --> 01:06:48,760
Were you surprised
982
01:06:48,840 --> 01:06:53,720
when your recipe became
one of the top ten soups in the world?
983
01:06:53,800 --> 01:06:57,360
{\an8}I was very surprised. I didn't expect it.
984
01:06:57,440 --> 01:07:00,280
{\an8}- I really didn't expect it.
- I believe you.
985
01:07:00,360 --> 01:07:06,360
On the one hand, I was happy
that, together with the soup,
986
01:07:06,440 --> 01:07:09,160
the town of Rădăuți
is known all over the world.
987
01:07:09,840 --> 01:07:14,720
Wherever the ciorba rădăuțeană goes,
the Rădăuți town goes with it.
988
01:07:15,480 --> 01:07:17,280
And that makes me very happy.
989
01:07:17,360 --> 01:07:20,880
And that's why you chose to name the soup
after the town
990
01:07:20,960 --> 01:07:23,280
rather than after yourself.
991
01:07:23,360 --> 01:07:27,480
I couldn't give it my name.
992
01:07:27,560 --> 01:07:33,200
If it were Cornelia soup,
I could have done the homologation.
993
01:07:33,280 --> 01:07:38,080
That's why I couldn't do that
because it's the name of the town.
994
01:07:38,880 --> 01:07:42,160
It's beautiful and it's an incredible
thing you've done for the town
995
01:07:42,240 --> 01:07:48,840
because now millions of people
know about Rădăuți through your ciorba.
996
01:07:48,920 --> 01:07:52,320
Eat it with joy and I hope you like it.
997
01:07:53,840 --> 01:07:55,760
That is exquisite.
998
01:07:56,680 --> 01:07:58,320
I'm actually a little bit of a loss
for words.
999
01:07:58,400 --> 01:08:02,800
The sourness, it's tart,
it's beautiful, it's smooth,
1000
01:08:02,880 --> 01:08:06,440
you can taste the chicken,
the cream, the garlic,
1001
01:08:07,160 --> 01:08:09,760
but just the right amount,
I mean, it's perfect.
1002
01:08:09,840 --> 01:08:11,160
Thank you so much.
1003
01:08:11,240 --> 01:08:13,520
- Thank you so much.
- You're welcome.
1004
01:08:13,600 --> 01:08:16,040
And I'm happy you like it.
1005
01:08:17,240 --> 01:08:19,000
It's my favourite ciorba.
1006
01:08:19,080 --> 01:08:20,720
Bravo! Congratulation!
1007
01:08:21,479 --> 01:08:23,840
And it's a huge honour to meet you.
1008
01:08:26,120 --> 01:08:29,080
Undoubtedly the most iconic images
of Bucovina
1009
01:08:29,160 --> 01:08:32,359
are of its UNESCO World Heritage
painted monasteries.
1010
01:08:37,520 --> 01:08:38,880
Their exterior walls
1011
01:08:38,960 --> 01:08:42,720
decorated with elaborate
15th and 16th century frescoes
1012
01:08:42,800 --> 01:08:44,240
featuring scenes from the Bible
1013
01:08:44,319 --> 01:08:46,520
and the subsequent the history
of the church.
1014
01:08:50,880 --> 01:08:54,040
These dramatic and often brutal images,
1015
01:08:54,120 --> 01:08:56,960
especially where depicting
the suffering of the saints,
1016
01:08:57,040 --> 01:09:00,520
were created to inspire and educate
the local populace
1017
01:09:00,600 --> 01:09:02,880
who in many cases
were unable to read or write.
1018
01:09:14,399 --> 01:09:17,080
Principle among these
is the church of Voroneț,
1019
01:09:17,160 --> 01:09:18,880
famed for its vibrant blues,
1020
01:09:18,960 --> 01:09:22,560
using a natural pigment
that remains a secret to this day.
1021
01:09:32,800 --> 01:09:35,439
I was fortunate enough to get
a personal tour
1022
01:09:35,520 --> 01:09:37,800
from Mother Superior Gabriela.
1023
01:09:41,520 --> 01:09:43,800
- Welcome!
- Thank you so much for having us.
1024
01:09:43,880 --> 01:09:47,560
{\an8}Welcome to our monastery.
I was waiting for you for a long time.
1025
01:09:47,640 --> 01:09:49,520
{\an8}- Really?
- Yes, to come to Voroneț.
1026
01:09:49,600 --> 01:09:52,080
- Well, serendipity.
- Yes, wonderful.
1027
01:09:52,160 --> 01:09:54,520
And you're dressed in blue.
1028
01:09:54,600 --> 01:09:57,600
I did that deliberately because I know
this is the blue monastery.
1029
01:09:57,680 --> 01:10:01,880
Next week we will celebrate
on the 26th of May
1030
01:10:01,960 --> 01:10:07,280
535 years since started to build
this church.
1031
01:10:07,360 --> 01:10:09,480
And it was built in three months
and three weeks.
1032
01:10:09,560 --> 01:10:14,400
After the prayer destination
of this place because it is a monastery,
1033
01:10:14,480 --> 01:10:18,720
the second destination of Voroneț
it is to be a touristic place.
1034
01:10:18,800 --> 01:10:23,160
There are pilgrims coming, but also
just tourists who love the culture
1035
01:10:23,240 --> 01:10:25,320
and want to see this wonderful treasure.
1036
01:10:25,400 --> 01:10:30,000
That was the original idea of the murals,
wasn't it, to teach people.
1037
01:10:30,080 --> 01:10:34,040
And so all the tourists coming to see
can be inspired by the images.
1038
01:10:34,120 --> 01:10:35,880
Everybody can understand a lot
1039
01:10:35,960 --> 01:10:41,200
because the paintings, the images
are speaking directly.
1040
01:10:41,280 --> 01:10:45,880
This is the highest moment
of the exterior painting of Voroneț,
1041
01:10:45,960 --> 01:10:51,040
the Last Judgment representation.
Because of this wonderful composition,
1042
01:10:51,120 --> 01:10:55,280
Voroneț church was compared
to the Sistine Chapel.
1043
01:10:55,360 --> 01:10:59,840
It's good for us because it's the only
church from the entire world
1044
01:10:59,920 --> 01:11:01,480
compared to the Sistine Chapel.
1045
01:11:01,560 --> 01:11:07,040
- That's quite impressive.
- The value comes from the painter.
1046
01:11:07,120 --> 01:11:10,480
Michelangelo. His composition, his vision.
1047
01:11:10,560 --> 01:11:12,880
Here, our Moldavian painters
1048
01:11:12,960 --> 01:11:17,120
gave the value
of the theological composition.
1049
01:11:17,200 --> 01:11:19,280
It's extremely visceral
1050
01:11:19,360 --> 01:11:24,880
with the river of fire,
with the demons and the dragon
1051
01:11:24,960 --> 01:11:27,360
and then getting smaller and smaller
1052
01:11:27,880 --> 01:11:31,520
as you get closer to the light at the top
with the figure of God sitting...
1053
01:11:31,600 --> 01:11:35,320
- Is it God or is it Jesus?
- It is Jesus because He is the judge.
1054
01:11:35,400 --> 01:11:39,720
Actually, the judgment will be
depending of our acts
1055
01:11:39,800 --> 01:11:45,200
and that means the main place
of this composition it's in the middle.
1056
01:11:45,280 --> 01:11:47,720
If we cross two lines,
1057
01:11:47,800 --> 01:11:52,360
the intersection
will be to the balance moment
1058
01:11:52,440 --> 01:11:55,000
because our life will be put
on the balance,
1059
01:11:55,080 --> 01:12:00,080
and depending of the balance position
will be God's answer.
1060
01:12:00,160 --> 01:12:02,680
Close to God or following the river
of fire down.
1061
01:12:02,760 --> 01:12:08,240
And what we can see,
if we are closer to God
1062
01:12:08,320 --> 01:12:12,880
actually we don't have any problems
with the proprieties of the fire.
1063
01:12:12,960 --> 01:12:17,040
So it's a fire that either cleanses you
or condemns you
1064
01:12:17,120 --> 01:12:18,680
depending on how you lived your life.
1065
01:12:18,760 --> 01:12:23,640
Yes. And if you are not in the communion
with God,
1066
01:12:23,720 --> 01:12:28,560
if we take distance from the source
of love which is God,
1067
01:12:28,640 --> 01:12:31,920
okay, this fire will be the hell.
1068
01:12:33,640 --> 01:12:36,600
The interior of Voroneț
is equally spectacular,
1069
01:12:36,680 --> 01:12:38,200
but among its many wonders,
1070
01:12:38,280 --> 01:12:40,680
the most sacred
is the tomb of Daniel the Hermit
1071
01:12:40,760 --> 01:12:42,600
in whose honour the church was built.
1072
01:12:43,280 --> 01:12:46,240
Stories tell how the saint
advised Stephen the Great
1073
01:12:46,320 --> 01:12:48,880
to persevere in his fight
against the Ottomans
1074
01:12:48,960 --> 01:12:52,320
and having achieved victory
had Voroneț constructed
1075
01:12:52,400 --> 01:12:54,480
and dedicated in the name of St. George.
1076
01:12:55,520 --> 01:12:58,280
This is the treasure of Voroneț.
1077
01:12:58,920 --> 01:13:03,240
When we started the monastery
to be resurrect after 206 years
1078
01:13:03,960 --> 01:13:07,400
we were asking in our mind
what we will do.
1079
01:13:07,480 --> 01:13:12,760
We will take his example,
that means together monastic life,
1080
01:13:12,840 --> 01:13:14,920
that means the meal without meat,
1081
01:13:15,680 --> 01:13:18,200
that means also midnight prayers.
1082
01:13:18,280 --> 01:13:22,840
And we kissed the stone at the beginning
and at the end of each service
1083
01:13:22,920 --> 01:13:24,840
because we take the power.
1084
01:13:24,920 --> 01:13:30,040
Or first Mother Superior, she had
a special relationship with this tomb
1085
01:13:30,120 --> 01:13:33,480
because she used to say, I am not
the Superior of the monastery.
1086
01:13:33,560 --> 01:13:37,080
The real Superior of the Voroneț monastery
is Daniel the Hermit.
1087
01:13:37,160 --> 01:13:40,240
There's a lot of power here.
1088
01:13:40,320 --> 01:13:43,960
For example, it is a painter
of the frescoes today
1089
01:13:44,640 --> 01:13:48,640
and he comes on Sundays
during the summer service
1090
01:13:48,720 --> 01:13:52,200
when we're celebrating this church
because he used to say,
1091
01:13:52,280 --> 01:13:58,520
I can't describe in words what do I feel
like holy energy from the tomb.
1092
01:13:58,600 --> 01:14:01,160
- Emanating from his tomb.
- Yes.
1093
01:14:04,400 --> 01:14:06,720
With our time in Bucovina almost at an end
1094
01:14:06,800 --> 01:14:10,160
there is one last place that's a must see
if you visit this region.
1095
01:14:12,360 --> 01:14:14,800
However, it's not somewhere
you can reach by bike.
1096
01:14:16,960 --> 01:14:20,400
I'm on a forest road 20 minutes
from Dorna Candrenilor
1097
01:14:20,480 --> 01:14:22,840
heading up into the Căliman National Park
1098
01:14:22,920 --> 01:14:26,360
in search of one of Romania's
most epic rock formations:
1099
01:14:28,640 --> 01:14:30,240
The mysterious 12 Apostles.
1100
01:14:31,720 --> 01:14:34,520
A bizarre cluster of stone pillars
1101
01:14:36,640 --> 01:14:40,040
rising from the trees
like the fingertips of a giant
1102
01:14:40,120 --> 01:14:41,560
clawing at the sky.
1103
01:14:58,200 --> 01:15:02,160
Well, we've reached a new pinnacle
for Flavours of Romania,
1104
01:15:02,720 --> 01:15:03,800
and it's in Bucovina.
1105
01:15:04,320 --> 01:15:07,560
I think this is one of the most
beautiful places I've seen so far.
1106
01:15:08,600 --> 01:15:11,880
And you have 360-degree views
in all directions
1107
01:15:11,960 --> 01:15:14,160
probably for over a hundred kilometers.
1108
01:15:39,720 --> 01:15:42,120
It's understandable why this is called
the 12 Apostles,
1109
01:15:42,200 --> 01:15:45,960
it has a distinctly spiritual feeling
and atmosphere.
1110
01:15:46,520 --> 01:15:49,480
I'm sure that at some point
in history or prehistory
1111
01:15:49,560 --> 01:15:51,720
this was a sacred site for somebody
1112
01:15:52,520 --> 01:15:55,480
and a fitting place to end our journey
around Bucovina.
1113
01:16:00,440 --> 01:16:03,040
In our final action-packed
feature-length episode
1114
01:16:03,120 --> 01:16:05,520
we will be venturing deep
under the Apuseni hills
1115
01:16:05,600 --> 01:16:07,600
in search of Roman gold
1116
01:16:10,280 --> 01:16:15,320
and climbing high in Retezat Mountains
to visit an enclave of nomadic shepherds.
1117
01:16:18,200 --> 01:16:20,440
We'll be checking out
the fair city of Cluj,
1118
01:16:24,960 --> 01:16:26,960
learning how to make palinka with wheat,
1119
01:16:30,920 --> 01:16:33,920
visiting Saxon citadels
and Gothic castles,
1120
01:16:36,040 --> 01:16:37,920
flying like an eagle
1121
01:16:41,480 --> 01:16:43,720
and playing out the sunset with Subcarpați
1122
01:16:43,800 --> 01:16:45,920
one of Romania's most talented bands.
1123
01:16:50,360 --> 01:16:53,360
All this and more
than you could possibly imagine,
1124
01:16:53,440 --> 01:16:55,880
only in Flavours of Romania.