1 00:00:01,460 --> 00:00:04,460 'Every year, three million of us head to the Greek islands 2 00:00:04,495 --> 00:00:06,105 'for our holidays. 3 00:00:06,140 --> 00:00:08,300 'And it's easy to see why. ' 4 00:00:08,335 --> 00:00:10,425 This is Greece and look at that! 5 00:00:10,460 --> 00:00:14,460 'I have a strong affinity with the islands... 6 00:00:14,495 --> 00:00:15,785 'my mum is Greek. 7 00:00:15,820 --> 00:00:19,425 'But I've only holidayed here. 8 00:00:19,460 --> 00:00:22,460 'I've never really explored beyond the tourist trail... ' 9 00:00:22,495 --> 00:00:23,500 Ah! I think I've pulled! 10 00:00:24,820 --> 00:00:26,425 '.. until now. ' Yamas! 11 00:00:26,460 --> 00:00:29,460 'Every step of this journey has been a surprise. ' 12 00:00:29,495 --> 00:00:31,425 Wow! 13 00:00:31,460 --> 00:00:34,460 'They say no one Greek island is like another 14 00:00:34,495 --> 00:00:37,460 'and so far, this trip is proving it. ' 15 00:00:37,495 --> 00:00:39,460 Look, there's nobody here. 16 00:00:39,495 --> 00:00:41,425 Hello, everybody! 17 00:00:41,460 --> 00:00:44,425 'But now I'm nearing the end of my travels 18 00:00:44,460 --> 00:00:47,460 'and I'm going well and truly off the beaten track. ' 19 00:00:47,495 --> 00:00:50,425 I am going native. 20 00:00:50,460 --> 00:00:52,425 'To the island some say 21 00:00:52,460 --> 00:00:54,880 'is Greece's best kept secret. ' 22 00:00:54,915 --> 00:00:57,300 This is a voyage of discovery... 23 00:00:57,335 --> 00:00:58,660 and I'm taking you with me. 24 00:01:14,980 --> 00:01:17,425 This island holds a lot of promise for me. 25 00:01:17,460 --> 00:01:21,460 Chios is just 30 minutes from Turkey in that direction on a ferry, 26 00:01:21,495 --> 00:01:23,465 and like so many of the Greek islands, 27 00:01:23,500 --> 00:01:26,460 even though it's not particularly well known, 28 00:01:26,495 --> 00:01:28,460 its history is tumultuous and colourful. 29 00:01:30,460 --> 00:01:32,425 'It's an island of myth and mystery. 30 00:01:32,460 --> 00:01:36,460 'Some people claim that Christopher Columbus was born here. 31 00:01:36,495 --> 00:01:40,237 'Others speak of Chios as the birthplace of Homer. 32 00:01:40,272 --> 00:01:43,980 'Whatever the truth, this rustic and rural island 33 00:01:44,015 --> 00:01:47,737 'doesn't register on many tourist maps. 34 00:01:47,772 --> 00:01:51,425 'And around 140 miles from mainland Greece, 35 00:01:51,460 --> 00:01:55,140 'Chios is one of the most undiscovered and unspoilt 36 00:01:55,175 --> 00:01:56,460 'of all the Greek islands. ' 37 00:01:58,460 --> 00:02:00,425 It's a significant place for me 38 00:02:00,460 --> 00:02:02,460 because this is where my ancestors are from 39 00:02:02,495 --> 00:02:04,425 and for this leg of my journey, 40 00:02:04,460 --> 00:02:06,460 I've got a very special travel companion. 41 00:02:07,980 --> 00:02:12,425 'Meet my mana mou - Chrissi Bradbury. 42 00:02:12,460 --> 00:02:15,425 'Although her family name was Stephanakis. 43 00:02:15,460 --> 00:02:18,465 'Chios is where her side of the family are from. 44 00:02:18,500 --> 00:02:22,460 'I grew up hearing stories of this remote island far, far away. 45 00:02:23,460 --> 00:02:26,460 'And now, now we're actually here. ' 46 00:02:26,495 --> 00:02:28,425 GLASSES CLINK 47 00:02:28,460 --> 00:02:31,425 We finally made it to Chios, Mana mou. 48 00:02:31,460 --> 00:02:36,140 We finally made it to Chios, Jules, and it's a huge adventure. 49 00:02:36,175 --> 00:02:38,460 But every time I come to Greece, it's an adventure. 50 00:02:38,495 --> 00:02:40,425 It's strange being here 51 00:02:40,460 --> 00:02:42,800 because this island is a part of us, 52 00:02:42,835 --> 00:02:45,105 it's a part of our family. Absolutely! 53 00:02:45,140 --> 00:02:48,980 We stopped here on the way from I think it was Santorini. 54 00:02:49,015 --> 00:02:50,460 So I was with you? Yes. 55 00:02:50,495 --> 00:02:52,425 You were tiny... 56 00:02:52,460 --> 00:02:54,460 you were either tiny, or non-existent. 57 00:02:54,495 --> 00:02:56,425 So I have been here. Maybe. 58 00:02:56,460 --> 00:02:58,460 You have been, just for an hour or two, not long, not long. 59 00:02:58,495 --> 00:03:00,460 And that's the only time you've been here? 60 00:03:00,495 --> 00:03:03,460 The only time I've ever been. Yep. 61 00:03:03,495 --> 00:03:04,460 Gosh, what an adventure. 62 00:03:06,460 --> 00:03:09,460 'This island is such a big part of our lives, 63 00:03:09,495 --> 00:03:11,425 'and yet we know so little about it. 64 00:03:11,460 --> 00:03:14,425 'So we are going to explore it together. 65 00:03:14,460 --> 00:03:17,460 'And we are starting with the product Chios is most famous for. 66 00:03:17,495 --> 00:03:19,425 'Mastica. 67 00:03:19,460 --> 00:03:23,300 'Chios is called the Mastic Island. 68 00:03:23,335 --> 00:03:24,425 'An ancient aromatic resin 69 00:03:24,460 --> 00:03:27,460 'that is the engine of the island's economy. 70 00:03:28,460 --> 00:03:30,980 'The world's only commercial producer of mastic, 71 00:03:31,015 --> 00:03:33,425 'it is exported to over 50 countries 72 00:03:33,460 --> 00:03:36,980 'and it's used in everything from food to medicine. 73 00:03:37,015 --> 00:03:40,460 'Its story begins with an evergreen tree. 74 00:03:41,460 --> 00:03:44,460 'Ilias and Maria from the Mastic Growers Association 75 00:03:44,495 --> 00:03:47,460 'have brought us to the only place in the world 76 00:03:47,495 --> 00:03:50,477 'where the mastica tree flourishes. ' 77 00:03:50,512 --> 00:03:53,460 As you see, mastica actually is the sap, 78 00:03:53,495 --> 00:03:55,425 it's the sap of the tree 79 00:03:55,460 --> 00:03:58,425 and actually, is the reaction of the tree 80 00:03:58,460 --> 00:04:03,460 in order to avoid infections from insects, from fungus, from bacteria. 81 00:04:03,495 --> 00:04:05,425 So when we make the incisions, 82 00:04:05,460 --> 00:04:10,460 the tree automatically produce mastica in order to cover the wound. 83 00:04:10,495 --> 00:04:12,425 So the sap comes out 84 00:04:12,460 --> 00:04:14,425 and that's what you, that's what's harvested? Exactly. 85 00:04:14,460 --> 00:04:19,460 We don't use it, actually, in Chios, it's not very common to use mastica, 86 00:04:19,495 --> 00:04:24,460 because 85-90% of the annual production is being exported 87 00:04:24,495 --> 00:04:27,460 mainly for pharmaceutical production, 88 00:04:27,495 --> 00:04:30,460 so we treat it like diamond. 89 00:04:31,460 --> 00:04:33,140 You don't keep it, you sell it. 90 00:04:34,460 --> 00:04:39,425 'This rare resin is known as the Tears of Chios. 91 00:04:39,460 --> 00:04:42,460 'And the microclimate of southern Chios, with its dry, 92 00:04:42,495 --> 00:04:45,660 'barren soil is just perfect for this tree. ' 93 00:04:45,695 --> 00:04:47,425 So can I taste this? 94 00:04:47,460 --> 00:04:51,460 Yes, but it's very soft and maybe you need a dentist after that. 95 00:04:51,495 --> 00:04:52,980 I'll risk it. I'm going to have... 96 00:04:58,460 --> 00:05:00,460 I'm trying to describe the thing, it's a slightly, 97 00:05:00,495 --> 00:05:02,460 it's a slightly minty flavour. 98 00:05:03,500 --> 00:05:05,460 What is he throwing on the ground? 99 00:05:05,495 --> 00:05:07,425 It is calcium carbonate 100 00:05:07,460 --> 00:05:10,640 and we use it in order to keep mastica clean 101 00:05:10,675 --> 00:05:14,067 when it drops down to the surface of the tree. 102 00:05:14,102 --> 00:05:17,460 How much mastica will you harvest off one tree? 103 00:05:17,495 --> 00:05:20,425 And how often can you harvest one tree? 104 00:05:20,460 --> 00:05:25,460 The average quantity let's say it's almost 150 to 200g. 105 00:05:25,495 --> 00:05:28,425 But through the ages, 106 00:05:28,460 --> 00:05:33,945 the Chian growers choose very productive varieties. 107 00:05:33,980 --> 00:05:37,425 Yes. And this is the only variety that now produces mastica, 108 00:05:37,460 --> 00:05:41,140 otherwise, trees you are able to find in the Mediterranean region 109 00:05:41,175 --> 00:05:44,425 produces only, let's say, 1g per year 110 00:05:44,460 --> 00:05:47,625 So that's such a difference, a mastic tree here in Chios 111 00:05:47,660 --> 00:05:52,660 producing 150, maybe 300g and then 1g somewhere else in the world. 112 00:05:52,695 --> 00:05:55,425 So they are, it's the magic of Chios as well 113 00:05:55,460 --> 00:05:59,460 and how this plant has been cultivated over the years. 114 00:05:59,495 --> 00:06:02,460 Exactly. So you have the monopolopolous on it. 115 00:06:02,495 --> 00:06:04,300 THEY LAUGH 116 00:06:05,460 --> 00:06:08,460 'The mastic tree has been grafted into the life of the islanders 117 00:06:08,495 --> 00:06:10,425 'since ancient times. 118 00:06:10,460 --> 00:06:15,460 'Today, some 4,500 people who live here are involved in its production. 119 00:06:16,980 --> 00:06:22,220 'And most of them live in what are known as the mastic villages. ' 120 00:06:22,255 --> 00:06:27,460 So, apparently, there are 24 mastic villages all over the island. 121 00:06:28,500 --> 00:06:31,480 All of those villages are reliant 122 00:06:31,515 --> 00:06:34,425 and thrive off the mastic trade. 123 00:06:34,460 --> 00:06:37,425 Yes. That's a lot, isn't it? It is a lot. 124 00:06:37,460 --> 00:06:39,460 'As you walk through the streets, you feel as if you're 125 00:06:39,495 --> 00:06:41,460 'in another time and place. ' 126 00:06:43,460 --> 00:06:48,460 Listen how quiet it is. Yeah. Listen. Shh... Nothing. 127 00:06:48,495 --> 00:06:50,105 JULIA GASPS 128 00:06:50,140 --> 00:06:52,300 Look how pretty this is, look at that. 129 00:06:52,335 --> 00:06:54,460 Oh, it's beautiful, isn't it? 130 00:06:56,460 --> 00:06:59,660 'Life goes on the way it has for hundreds of years. ' 131 00:06:59,695 --> 00:07:01,425 WOMEN CHATTER 132 00:07:01,460 --> 00:07:03,425 'Whilst the men toil in the mastic fields, 133 00:07:03,460 --> 00:07:05,460 'the women work hard in the village sorting it. ' 134 00:07:08,460 --> 00:07:10,460 CHRISSI SPEAKS IN GREEK 135 00:07:12,980 --> 00:07:15,460 THEY LAUGH 136 00:07:17,460 --> 00:07:20,460 So we're, we're sitting with the ladies cleaning the mastic 137 00:07:20,495 --> 00:07:23,425 but what annoys me, is that my mum always says the reason 138 00:07:23,460 --> 00:07:27,460 she didn't teach me Greek is that she doesn't speak Greek very well. 139 00:07:27,495 --> 00:07:30,460 And yet we sit down here with the lovely ladies 140 00:07:30,495 --> 00:07:32,500 and her Greek is amazing. 141 00:07:32,535 --> 00:07:34,425 I get by. 142 00:07:34,460 --> 00:07:37,140 OK, you get by. I'd like to be able to get by. 143 00:07:38,460 --> 00:07:41,425 Oh! Ohh! Efcharisto! 144 00:07:41,460 --> 00:07:43,425 WOMAN SPEAKS IN OWN LANGUAGE 145 00:07:43,460 --> 00:07:48,460 At this stage, the mastica has been harvested from the trees 146 00:07:48,495 --> 00:07:52,460 and as you can see, when it arrives into the village, 147 00:07:52,495 --> 00:07:55,425 it's got quite a lot of debris still. 148 00:07:55,460 --> 00:08:01,460 During the winter time, ladies gather around on this square 149 00:08:01,495 --> 00:08:05,460 and they do this talking and drinking and... 150 00:08:05,495 --> 00:08:07,460 CHRISSI CHUCKLES 151 00:08:10,300 --> 00:08:13,425 'The most famous of the mastic villages is Pyrgi, 152 00:08:13,460 --> 00:08:16,460 'where buildings are covered in black and white sgraffito, 153 00:08:16,495 --> 00:08:19,460 'a centuries-old technique where geometric patterns 154 00:08:19,495 --> 00:08:21,460 'are etched into concrete. ' 155 00:08:22,460 --> 00:08:24,425 Now, I thought they were tiles. 156 00:08:24,460 --> 00:08:26,460 Yes, it looks like tiles, but it's not. 157 00:08:26,495 --> 00:08:28,425 It's not, it's painted-in concrete. 158 00:08:28,460 --> 00:08:30,460 It's plaster... And the concrete from underneath. 159 00:08:30,495 --> 00:08:31,660 I like that! 160 00:08:33,460 --> 00:08:36,460 'The level of detail in the design was a sign of the wealth 161 00:08:36,495 --> 00:08:38,425 'of the owner of the house. 162 00:08:38,460 --> 00:08:41,460 'And mastic has certainly brought a lot of privilege and prosperity 163 00:08:41,495 --> 00:08:42,980 'to the island over the years. 164 00:08:43,660 --> 00:08:46,465 'No wonder they say it's like diamonds. ' 165 00:08:46,500 --> 00:08:51,460 So we've seen the trees, the sap, the mastica ladies... 166 00:08:51,495 --> 00:08:53,660 and let's go and see what they turn it all into. 167 00:08:53,695 --> 00:08:55,425 'Apparently, mastic 168 00:08:55,460 --> 00:08:58,265 'has over 150 different uses. ' 169 00:08:58,300 --> 00:09:00,425 After you. WOMAN GREETS THEM IN GREEK 170 00:09:00,460 --> 00:09:02,425 'Thought to be the world's first chewing gum, 171 00:09:02,460 --> 00:09:06,460 'it's long been a culinary staple in Turkey and the Middle East. 172 00:09:06,495 --> 00:09:08,460 'And it's commonly used in beauty care 173 00:09:08,495 --> 00:09:10,425 'and cosmetics. 174 00:09:10,460 --> 00:09:13,960 'Marilena is going to show us the many faces of mastic. ' 175 00:09:13,995 --> 00:09:17,460 OK, face creams. Yes, OK, we all love a good face cream. 176 00:09:17,495 --> 00:09:19,425 Of course. I'm loving that, 177 00:09:19,460 --> 00:09:21,460 "whitening and anti-wrinkle super sheet mask" 178 00:09:21,495 --> 00:09:23,157 I'm taking one of those! 179 00:09:23,192 --> 00:09:24,785 It's really hydrating. 180 00:09:24,820 --> 00:09:29,425 Yeah, that's lovely! Spicy garlic spread, ooh! 181 00:09:29,460 --> 00:09:32,220 Doggy chocolate. A doggy chocolate? It's just dark chocolate. 182 00:09:32,255 --> 00:09:34,980 I mean, I can see pasta over there and toothpaste over there! 183 00:09:35,015 --> 00:09:38,425 There are the traditional mastica products. Yes. 184 00:09:38,460 --> 00:09:41,660 You know, there are the candies... The spoon. The spoon! 185 00:09:41,695 --> 00:09:43,425 The spoon in the glass. Ypovrichio. Yes! 186 00:09:43,460 --> 00:09:47,460 We call it Submarine because you take, like, a spoon of that, 187 00:09:47,495 --> 00:09:50,477 you put it in a glass and you add some water. 188 00:09:50,512 --> 00:09:53,425 'The Submarine is a classic Greek dessert. 189 00:09:53,460 --> 00:09:56,460 'So called because it is submerged in the water. ' 190 00:09:57,460 --> 00:10:00,460 Wow, OK, Mum, you try it, cos this is, this is what you used to do, 191 00:10:00,495 --> 00:10:02,425 yes? When you were little. 192 00:10:02,460 --> 00:10:04,480 So this was the equivalent of a lollipop. 193 00:10:04,515 --> 00:10:06,500 Yes, but it was like the traditional dessert 194 00:10:06,535 --> 00:10:08,785 when someone arrived at your home 195 00:10:08,820 --> 00:10:12,140 and you would like to treat him something you haven't baked. 196 00:10:12,175 --> 00:10:15,460 God forbid that anybody should arrive in your house in Greece 197 00:10:15,495 --> 00:10:17,425 and you don't offer them something. Unacceptable. 198 00:10:17,460 --> 00:10:20,460 Unacceptable, unacceptable. It is, that's what we've been doing. 199 00:10:20,495 --> 00:10:26,460 Takes me back to my childhood sitting in funny old parlours 200 00:10:26,495 --> 00:10:29,460 with all these Greek women sitting around. 201 00:10:29,495 --> 00:10:31,460 JULIA CHUCKLES 202 00:10:31,495 --> 00:10:33,425 Mm! 203 00:10:33,460 --> 00:10:37,425 Mm... That's lovely! Yes. Chewy. 204 00:10:37,460 --> 00:10:42,460 OK, this is going to sound wrong, but imagine if you could eat 205 00:10:42,495 --> 00:10:46,460 toothpaste, but lovely, minty, herby sort of toothpaste. 206 00:10:46,495 --> 00:10:48,460 It's really nice. Yes, it is! 207 00:10:48,495 --> 00:10:49,660 And good for you. 208 00:10:52,460 --> 00:10:54,460 'The Submarine isn't the only tradition 209 00:10:54,495 --> 00:10:56,460 'we're going to sink our teeth into. ' 210 00:10:56,495 --> 00:10:57,425 FIDDLES PLAY 211 00:10:57,460 --> 00:10:59,425 'The medieval town of Mesta beckons. 212 00:10:59,460 --> 00:11:01,460 'And we'll need to get our dancing shoes on!' 213 00:11:01,495 --> 00:11:04,460 CLAPPING AND CHEERING 214 00:11:32,460 --> 00:11:36,460 'I've reached the final destination of my Greek odyssey. 215 00:11:37,460 --> 00:11:40,460 'The little-known island of Chios... 216 00:11:40,495 --> 00:11:43,425 'home to my ancestral past. 217 00:11:43,460 --> 00:11:46,460 'My mum and I have travelled to the south of the island, 218 00:11:46,495 --> 00:11:49,460 'to the Mastic region, for a glimpse of the real Greece. 219 00:11:49,495 --> 00:11:51,977 'Chios is one of the few Greek islands 220 00:11:52,012 --> 00:11:54,425 'that's been untouched by mass tourism. 221 00:11:54,460 --> 00:11:56,980 'So, this island's culture and traditions are as pure 222 00:11:57,015 --> 00:11:59,460 'and as unchanged as it gets. 223 00:12:00,460 --> 00:12:03,960 'And I've been told that if I want to find the true Chios, 224 00:12:03,995 --> 00:12:07,460 'the Medieval village of Mesta is the place to head for. 225 00:12:09,460 --> 00:12:12,460 'Local hotelier Anna has offered to show us around town. ' 226 00:12:14,460 --> 00:12:18,460 Why is Mesta famous? Because it's not just for its beauty. 227 00:12:18,495 --> 00:12:21,425 It's a coastal village, 228 00:12:21,460 --> 00:12:26,460 closed from outside, no cars, like it was 100 years ago. 229 00:12:28,820 --> 00:12:31,425 'Built to protect itself from foreign invaders 230 00:12:31,460 --> 00:12:35,460 'and pirate attacks, Mesta, with its impenetrable stone walls 231 00:12:35,495 --> 00:12:39,460 'and maze of cobbled streets feels suspended in time. ' 232 00:12:40,460 --> 00:12:43,660 So it's lovely and cool, Anna, in these passages, isn't it? 233 00:12:43,695 --> 00:12:47,077 Five degrees different from outside. 234 00:12:47,112 --> 00:12:50,460 Ah, so it's five degrees cooler? Yes. 235 00:12:52,300 --> 00:12:53,425 How many people live here now? 236 00:12:53,460 --> 00:12:56,425 In winter, less than 300. That's tiny! 237 00:12:56,460 --> 00:13:00,460 Yeah, but in summer we have plenty. So who lives here still? 238 00:13:00,495 --> 00:13:05,460 Mostly old people. The old yayas and papus. 239 00:13:05,495 --> 00:13:06,425 Yayas and papus, yeah. 240 00:13:06,460 --> 00:13:10,460 'Greece is among the top countries in terms of life expectancy, 241 00:13:10,495 --> 00:13:14,460 'perhaps due to the Mediterranean diet and the warm sunny climate. 242 00:13:14,495 --> 00:13:16,105 'My yaya is 102! 243 00:13:16,140 --> 00:13:19,460 'The neighbouring island of Ikaria is one of the five designated 244 00:13:19,495 --> 00:13:22,460 'places in the world where people live the longest. 245 00:13:22,495 --> 00:13:24,425 'A blue zone. 246 00:13:24,460 --> 00:13:27,425 'Marianthe is 92 and still going strong. ' 247 00:13:27,460 --> 00:13:31,460 Marianthe is going to sing us a song about mastica. 248 00:13:32,460 --> 00:13:35,460 MARIANTHE SINGS IN OWN LANGUAGE 249 00:13:39,460 --> 00:13:41,500 'A lot of Greek woman like Marianthe dress in black. 250 00:13:47,460 --> 00:13:50,960 'It's a custom here for widows in mourning to wear black... 251 00:13:50,995 --> 00:13:54,460 'Not just for one day, but often, for the rest of their lives. ' 252 00:14:04,460 --> 00:14:08,460 JULIA AND CHRISSI CLAP Oh, bravo! Bravo. 253 00:14:08,495 --> 00:14:10,425 Efcharisto poli. 254 00:14:10,460 --> 00:14:14,460 Tell me about the song, what did you understand? 255 00:14:14,495 --> 00:14:18,460 That she doesn't want her daughter to work... 256 00:14:19,460 --> 00:14:22,300 .. in the mastica fields... 257 00:14:23,460 --> 00:14:24,425 .. because it's too hard. 258 00:14:24,460 --> 00:14:27,960 Can you ask Marianthe how, how often do the, 259 00:14:27,995 --> 00:14:31,460 do the ladies meet? Every day. Every day? 260 00:14:31,495 --> 00:14:33,460 Every day. Kathe mera. 261 00:14:33,495 --> 00:14:35,477 BELL TOLLS 262 00:14:35,512 --> 00:14:37,425 VILLAGERS SING 263 00:14:37,460 --> 00:14:41,460 'The people of Mesta, young and old, regularly get together to sing 264 00:14:41,495 --> 00:14:43,425 'and dance. 265 00:14:43,460 --> 00:14:46,460 'Nothing has a more powerful presence in Greek culture 266 00:14:46,495 --> 00:14:48,397 'than traditional dance. 267 00:14:48,432 --> 00:14:49,946 'especially on the islands. ' 268 00:14:49,981 --> 00:14:51,460 THEY SING IN OWN LANGUAGE 269 00:14:53,300 --> 00:14:56,300 'Dance is an expression of their cultural identity 270 00:14:56,335 --> 00:14:59,300 'and it's passed down from generation to generation. ' 271 00:14:59,335 --> 00:15:00,500 THEY SING IN OWN LANGUAGE 272 00:15:03,460 --> 00:15:06,300 'There are more than 10,000 traditional dances 273 00:15:06,335 --> 00:15:07,425 'around the country 274 00:15:07,460 --> 00:15:09,460 'And every island has its own variation. ' 275 00:15:09,495 --> 00:15:11,140 THEY APPLAUD 276 00:15:11,175 --> 00:15:12,425 Bravo! 277 00:15:12,460 --> 00:15:14,460 MAN CALLS IN OWN LANGUAGE 278 00:15:15,460 --> 00:15:17,425 Oh, gosh, no! 279 00:15:17,460 --> 00:15:18,425 It's going to be too hard. 280 00:15:18,460 --> 00:15:21,460 'We've been invited to join in one of the most popular 281 00:15:21,495 --> 00:15:24,140 'dances of the island... the Syrto. ' 282 00:15:24,175 --> 00:15:26,460 Ahh! Go, go, Mamma! 283 00:15:28,300 --> 00:15:31,460 Oh, thank you! Oh, what do I do? 284 00:15:31,495 --> 00:15:33,425 MAN SPEAKS IN OWN LANGUAGE 285 00:15:33,460 --> 00:15:37,460 'Now it's time for me and my two left feet to have a go. ' 286 00:15:37,495 --> 00:15:39,425 RECORDED MUSIC PLAYS 287 00:15:39,460 --> 00:15:41,425 'The dancers link hands to form a chain 288 00:15:41,460 --> 00:15:45,460 'or a circle, headed by a leader who I'm trying to follow. 289 00:15:49,500 --> 00:15:52,460 'It's not as easy as it looks. ' 290 00:15:54,300 --> 00:15:55,660 Oh, look at that, beautiful! 291 00:15:58,300 --> 00:16:00,425 Oh, I've lost it again. 292 00:16:00,460 --> 00:16:03,460 'Traditional dancing has always been my Achilles heel. Get it?!' 293 00:16:06,460 --> 00:16:08,425 Now I feel Greek! 294 00:16:08,460 --> 00:16:11,460 How you feeling, Mamma? Oh, this is complicated! 295 00:16:12,460 --> 00:16:15,460 It's going, it's like dancing, it's like dancing with the sheep. 296 00:16:15,495 --> 00:16:17,425 SHE LAUGHS 297 00:16:17,460 --> 00:16:19,460 I don't think I'm a natural. 298 00:16:28,460 --> 00:16:31,140 APPLAUSE 299 00:16:32,140 --> 00:16:34,500 Tell you what, you need to be fit to do this Greek dancing thing, 300 00:16:34,535 --> 00:16:37,105 ooh, I'm out of breath. How you doing, Mana mou? 301 00:16:37,140 --> 00:16:40,460 Well, I'm fine, but he wants to do another energetic dance with me 302 00:16:40,495 --> 00:16:44,140 and I can't do it, I'll have a heart attack. 303 00:16:44,175 --> 00:16:46,817 Let's not kill her. THEY LAUGH 304 00:16:46,852 --> 00:16:49,460 Ah, efcharisto poli! THEY CLAP 305 00:16:52,140 --> 00:16:55,460 'Now I'm feeling connected with the culture of Chios, 306 00:16:55,495 --> 00:16:58,977 'there's one last place we have to explore. 307 00:16:59,012 --> 00:17:02,460 'We're heading north to the town of Vrontados. 308 00:17:02,495 --> 00:17:05,425 'It's also known as Homeropolis, 309 00:17:05,460 --> 00:17:08,460 'because the legendary Greek writer Homer 310 00:17:08,495 --> 00:17:11,425 'was believed to have been born here. 311 00:17:11,460 --> 00:17:15,460 'The writer of The Odyssey, old Homer is one of the most famous 312 00:17:15,495 --> 00:17:17,425 'poets in the world. 313 00:17:17,460 --> 00:17:21,460 'And there's a solitary rock perched above Vrontados beach 314 00:17:21,495 --> 00:17:24,140 'where he supposedly sat and composed his work... 315 00:17:24,175 --> 00:17:25,460 'It's been dubbed Homer's Seat. ' 316 00:17:27,460 --> 00:17:29,480 We're here. We're here. Oh, look! 317 00:17:29,515 --> 00:17:31,465 Right amongst the pines, how lovely! 318 00:17:31,500 --> 00:17:35,140 I tell you what, why don't we... two little seats! 319 00:17:35,175 --> 00:17:36,425 There you go. 320 00:17:36,460 --> 00:17:38,425 How's that, comfy? 321 00:17:38,460 --> 00:17:42,820 I'm slipping! I'm slipping right down! 322 00:17:42,855 --> 00:17:44,425 Do you need to come up? 323 00:17:44,460 --> 00:17:46,820 Hang on a minute, hang on a minute, there you go. 324 00:17:46,855 --> 00:17:48,980 THEY CHUCKLE 325 00:17:51,460 --> 00:17:53,300 'Now you've heard of a Greek tragedy, 326 00:17:53,335 --> 00:17:56,425 'Greek comedy, anyone?' 327 00:17:56,460 --> 00:17:58,460 How old, how old was Homer? THEY LAUGH HARDER 328 00:17:59,460 --> 00:18:02,460 Right... Now wait a minute. Get your feet in position. 329 00:18:02,495 --> 00:18:03,425 I want to get my feet in position. 330 00:18:03,460 --> 00:18:05,460 I know, it's very slippy as well, watch out. 331 00:18:05,495 --> 00:18:07,460 Get yourself in... Ready? One, two, three... 332 00:18:11,660 --> 00:18:14,425 There's a way to sit: you put a foot there, ooh! 333 00:18:14,460 --> 00:18:17,460 And another foot there. Another foot... I don't think you wear... 334 00:18:17,495 --> 00:18:19,425 well, he probably did wear a skirt 335 00:18:19,460 --> 00:18:20,820 and he probably did wear sandals like this. 336 00:18:20,855 --> 00:18:24,460 And he would sit here. Lecturing. 337 00:18:24,495 --> 00:18:25,977 Well, I don't know. 338 00:18:26,012 --> 00:18:27,425 Communicating. Yes. 339 00:18:27,460 --> 00:18:30,460 His words of love and wisdom about pride and... 340 00:18:30,495 --> 00:18:31,425 It's incredible isn't it, 341 00:18:31,460 --> 00:18:33,625 it's so beautiful. It is. It is. 342 00:18:33,660 --> 00:18:36,060 'I never got to the end of Homer's Odyssey. 343 00:18:36,095 --> 00:18:38,460 'But I've nearly reached the end of mine. 344 00:18:40,460 --> 00:18:43,820 'Our final stop is a personal one. ' 345 00:18:43,855 --> 00:18:45,425 We're here in Vrontados, 346 00:18:45,460 --> 00:18:47,960 this is where... It all began! 347 00:18:47,995 --> 00:18:50,460 It all began. So, Anthony and? 348 00:18:50,495 --> 00:18:52,425 Arietta. 349 00:18:52,460 --> 00:18:55,960 'Anthony and Arietta, my mother's grandparents... 350 00:18:55,995 --> 00:18:59,460 'my great grandparents, were born and raised here 351 00:18:59,495 --> 00:19:00,460 'in the late 19th Century. 352 00:19:02,300 --> 00:19:03,425 'Anthony was a sailor 353 00:19:03,460 --> 00:19:06,960 'and he married Arietta in Vrontados in 1910, 354 00:19:06,995 --> 00:19:10,460 'a year before they fled the Turkish occupation 355 00:19:10,495 --> 00:19:12,425 'and emigrated to South Wales, 356 00:19:12,460 --> 00:19:15,460 'where my mother was born 26 years later. 357 00:19:16,460 --> 00:19:19,460 'Records state that when the couple married, they were gifted a house 358 00:19:19,495 --> 00:19:22,460 'and a farm in place called Mesovouni. 359 00:19:22,495 --> 00:19:24,460 'Somewhere here in Vrontados. ' 360 00:19:26,140 --> 00:19:29,460 So from the pictures you've seen, this is it? Yes! 361 00:19:29,495 --> 00:19:32,460 It's a hefty old chunk of property, Mamma! 362 00:19:33,820 --> 00:19:35,425 Look at the size of it! 363 00:19:35,460 --> 00:19:39,460 It's huge! It's definitely a fixer-upper, isn't it? 364 00:19:39,495 --> 00:19:42,425 Definitely a fixer-upper. 365 00:19:42,460 --> 00:19:46,460 So as far as we know, this house was left to... Her. 366 00:19:46,495 --> 00:19:50,425 To your grandmother, and look, this is you! 367 00:19:50,460 --> 00:19:53,460 Look at your chubby little feet! I was a chubby, happy baby. 368 00:19:54,460 --> 00:19:57,460 She looks happy, Yaya. She was lovely. 369 00:19:58,460 --> 00:20:01,460 So what do you think of the house? Um... 370 00:20:16,460 --> 00:20:18,425 Well I've got a vivid imagination, 371 00:20:18,460 --> 00:20:22,460 and I can see what it was like because it's a very beautiful house 372 00:20:22,495 --> 00:20:25,300 and a very large house in those days. 373 00:20:31,460 --> 00:20:35,460 Well it hasn't been lived in for a very, very long time, has it? 374 00:20:35,495 --> 00:20:36,460 Very long time. 375 00:20:39,460 --> 00:20:41,460 Look at it from here. 376 00:20:43,460 --> 00:20:46,460 Imagine living in that. Wonderful! 377 00:20:49,460 --> 00:20:51,460 'On my travels I've been trying to learn a bit of Greek 378 00:20:51,495 --> 00:20:53,465 'to try and impress my mum 379 00:20:53,500 --> 00:20:56,140 'and I think now is the moment. ' 380 00:20:57,460 --> 00:20:59,460 Mana mou, efcharisto. 381 00:21:31,460 --> 00:21:33,460 She said, "I love you. " 382 00:21:38,140 --> 00:21:40,105 Make me cry. 383 00:21:40,140 --> 00:21:42,460 Thank you, Yaya! Thank you, Papu! 384 00:21:43,460 --> 00:21:44,460 I'm feeling much more Greek. 385 00:21:47,460 --> 00:21:49,460 It's been a lovely adventure, hasn't it? 386 00:21:49,495 --> 00:21:51,477 It's been a great adventure. 387 00:21:51,512 --> 00:21:53,425 'Finding my ancestral home 388 00:21:53,460 --> 00:21:56,660 'is a fitting finale to my Greek voyage. 389 00:21:58,460 --> 00:22:00,960 'I've learnt so much about the islands - 390 00:22:00,995 --> 00:22:03,460 'their culture, their history, and my own. 391 00:22:11,460 --> 00:22:12,500 'And before I do... 392 00:22:14,460 --> 00:22:17,460 'I think I'd better book myself some Greek lessons. '